FR2876032A1 - Use of extract of leaves, spores or roots of plants belonging to the group of Polypodiophytes (ferns) for cosmetic/dermopharmaceutical applications - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of an extract (I) of leaves, spores or roots of plants belonging to the group of Polypodiophytes (ferns) having cosmetic or dermatological properties. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Endocrine-Gen.; Antiseborrheic; Antipruritic; Anorectic; Anabolic. No biological data given. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to the fields of cosmetics and

  dermatology, in particular the use of extracts of ferns (Polypodiophytes) in dermocosmetics and the purpose of which is to use certain species of ferns selected for

  preparation of cosmetic and dermatological products.

  The present invention consists in the discovery of extracts of Polypodiophytes having biochemical and biological activities of interest for skin and hair care, in particular for their properties on the hair and the scalp, such as moisturizing, fortifying, styling, smoothing, veinotonic, nutritious, regulating secretion of sebum, soothing, limiting hair loss, anti-dandruff, ... and especially for their effects on the skin of the face and the body such as soothing, protective, anti-aging, toning, moisturizing , regenerating, seboregulator, depigmenting, relaxing, slimming, anti-wrinkle, draining, restructuring, revitalizing, pigmenting,

  DTD: These properties are due to the presence of active molecules extracted either from the roots and / or the rhizome for the underground parts, or for the aerial parts of the stem and / or leaf or sling and / or sores composed of sporangia. Depending on the physiological spore, prothallus, seedling or plant, developed leaf or lacrosse leaf, the concentration of active molecules will vary. Among the active molecules, it may be mentioned: simple sugars, polysaccharides, mucilages, tannins, peptides and enzymatic proteins or not, terpenoids, saponosides, salicyclic acid, phenolic compounds, sterols In accordance with the present invention, the extraction processes make it possible to extract predominantly one or the other of these compounds and thus making it possible to give a biological action for cosmetic and / or dermatological purposes. are many. Depending on the polarity of the active compound sought, depending on the tissue location and the cellular location of the active compound to extract parts of the fern, the extraction processes can be described as follows: The part of the fern to be extracted is milled. Beforehand, the raw material could have been dried in the open air or in an oven or used fresh.

  The grinding will be carried out at room temperature or cold, or even at a negative temperature, less than -25c in order to preserve some thermolobile molecules.

  The parts thus ground are extracted with a solvent. This may be water, alcohol, such as methanol or ethanol, glycol esters, glycerol or an apolar solvent such as hexane or isopropyl myristate, vegetable oils, solvents synthetic oily, ketones, esters, ethers, chlorinated solvents, polyols or mixtures of at least two aforementioned miscible solvents.

  The extraction may be carried out at room temperature, cold from 0 to 10 C or hot until the solvent boils. Before extraction a maceration of the plant in the solvent overnight can be performed.

  After extraction with solvent, the extractive solution is filtered, the organic solvents are evaporated. The residue is taken up in boiling with ethanol at 90 and then cooled to 4-8 C. We obtain a solution of compounds of little to very apolar. This solution can be obtained as it is or dried in powder form.

  After aqueous extraction the extract can be used as it is, or purified by chromatography or differential precipitation, it can also be dried by any means of drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.

  After extraction with an oily solvent, the extract can be used as it is or purified by extraction with an organic solvent.

  Thus, the use of ferns (Polypodiophytes) as a raw material makes it possible to obtain a great diversity of active ingredients that can be used in cosmetics and dermatology depending on the part of the fern used, its physiological stage, the solvents and the extraction parameters used. .

  By way of example, the table below summarizes the extraction tests carried out in the laboratory on different ferns, according to the part used and the solvent used, and presents the molecules characterized in this extract.

  Species Part of Solvent Compounds, plant extracts Polypodium Fronds Alcohol Ecdysone aureum Ecdysterone Polypodium Fronds Water, Alcohol Polypodosaponins, vulgare Catechins Polypodium hastata Fronds Water Coumarin Osmunda regalis Rhizome Water Polysaccharides Cheilanthes Fronds Water Phenolic compounds Phenolic Pteris incomplete Rhizomes Water Saponins Pteridium Rhizomes Water / Alcohol Heterosides aquilinum Christella dentata Fronds Acidified alcohol Alkaloids Asplenium Water Fronds Trichomaniac Mucilages Subsequently the term extract must be understood as an extract of cells belonging to the above-mentioned group and more specifically as an extract of cells from at least one plant of the abovementioned group.

  The said material can be obtained by in vitro culture or in vivo. By in vitro culture is meant all of the techniques known to those skilled in the art that artificially allow the production of a plant or part of a plant. In vivo culture means all the cultivation techniques that make it possible to obtain a plant or a part of a plant.

  Thus, the extract may be an organ extract (root, leaves, spores) or even organ cells, at least one plant of the abovementioned group, or an undifferentiated cell extract from at least one such plant. .

  Some non-limiting examples will illustrate the potential use of ferns for the production of active ingredients used in the composition of cosmetic or dermatological products according to the extraction process used.

Example 1:

  This example corresponds to the extraction of phenolic compounds such as iridoids, anthocyanins, and phytosterols such as stigmasterol and sitosterol, from 100 kg of roots or fronds of ferns.

  The procedure and conditions are as follows: grind the crushed plant material in 10 volumes of denatured ethanol and 1% of sodium bisulfite used to limit the oxidation of the phenolic compounds during the extraction; 24 hours at a temperature below 10 C and with slow stirring Coarse filter If necessary, add 0.25% active charcoal used as a bleaching agent to the solution. Filter more finely than before Perform a second extraction under the same conditions as First mix the two extracts. Evaporate the alcohol until a viscous mass is obtained Solubilize at 5% in dipropylene glycol to obtain a liquid extract or dry this viscous mass at 60 ° C. under vacuum or by atomization, or on a drying filter.

Example 2:

  This example corresponds to the cryoextraction of fresh roots or dry fronds of Ferns. The procedure and the conditions are as follows: Freeze the freshly harvested plant material - Grind the fresh root or the Fern frond under liquid nitrogen into a fine powder of between 100 and 500 m in size. Add a volume of water whose temperature is less than 15 ° C Press the vegetable powder thus ground until a greenish juice is obtained. Coarse filter at a temperature of approximately 10 ° C. At this stage, the extract can be stabilized with propylene glycol or dipropylene glycol in order to obtain store in liquid form or can be concentrated by reverse osmosis in order to dry it by lyophilization.

Example 3:

  This example is the extraction of sugars, polysaccharides or proteins from roots or fronds of ferns.

  The procedure and conditions are as follows: Grind the dry plant material to a particle size of less than 1 mm Place the crushed plant material in 10 volumes of water Macerate for 12 to 24 hours at a temperature less than 40 C and with slow stirring Coarse filter If necessary, add 0.25% active charcoal or polyvinylpyrrolidone, used as bleaching agent, to the solution. Filter more finely than previously Perform a second extraction under the same conditions as the first - Mix the two extracts The extract can be used as is or dried The proteins can be separated from the polysaccharides by chromatography or by precipitation in 7 volumes of isopropanol, polysaccharides. 5

Example 4:

  This example corresponds to the extraction of saponosides such as glycyrhizin from roots or fronds of ferns.

  The procedure and the conditions are as follows: - Grind the dry plant material until a particle size of less than 1 mm. Place the crushed plant material in 10 volumes of water and 1% of sodium bisulphite used to limit In order to prevent their hydrolysis, hydroalcoholic extraction or extraction with pure alcohol (methanol or ethanol) can be used. Bring to a boil for at least 30 minutes. Filter coarsely Filter finely Proceed to second extraction under the same conditions as the first Mix the two extracts The extract can be used as is or stabilized with dipropylene glycol or dried by atomization after concentration.

Example 5:

  This example corresponds to the extraction of tannins from roots or fronds of ferns. The procedure and the conditions are as follows: - Grind the dry material until a particle size of less than 1 mm is obtained. The use of fresh or frozen material can lead to better extraction yields - Place the crushed plant material in 10 volumes of a solution of water and acetone - After removal of the acetone by distillation, the The solution is freed from these pigments and lipids by passage over an active carbon column. The concentrated tannin solution can be used as it is or further purified by exclusion chromatography followed by reverse phase chromatography. After concentration, the solution is spray-dried. or by lyophilization.

  The invention may be used as such in liquid or powder form after spray-drying, evaporation or lyophilization, or encapsulated in liposomes or other vectors and supports for a better homogeneity of the cosmetic preparation and a better diffusion of the active product on the surface. skin.

  Among the areas of application of the extract, jobs in cosmetology and dermopharmacy have been particularly studied.

  The activities of the extract were highlighted by methodologies conventionally used in cosmetology to demonstrate the cosmetic and dermatological activity of the product and by a method to show its effectiveness on cell cultures, skin cultures or on the skin. skin itself.

  The cosmetic and dermatological activity of the extract appears particularly interesting when it is combined with substances that increase skin protection (mucopolysaccharides, vitamins, ceramides, antiradical substances, U.V. filters).

  The restorative activity of the extract appears particularly interesting when it is associated with substances having a healing effect (proteins, hyaluronic acid, amino acids) or anti-inflammatory.

  The UV filtering activity of the extract is particularly interesting when it is combined with substances that limit the harmful effects of the sun (sunscreens).

  The protective activity of the extract vis-à-vis free radicals and UV is also very interesting in the hair field when it is associated with subsances facilitating the good condition of the scalp and that of the hair (minerals, vitamins, ceramides, protein extract, mucopolysaccharides, flower or fruit acids). The extract can intervene in the functional treatment of cutaneous capillary fragility because of the known film-forming, covering and protective properties of the molecules composing it.

  For the cosmetic and dermatological use, the extract according to the present invention can be formulated in galenic form: creams, gels, lotions, milks, O / W and W / O emulsions, solutions, ointments, sprays, body oils, hair lotions , shampoos, post-treatment lotions, soaps, lip protection sticks, poles and make-up pencils at contents of 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 2.5% in the form of powder and at contents of between 0 and , 01 and 25%, preferably between 0.5 and 10% in encapsulated form.

  For the preparation of these compositions, the extract is mixed with the excipients generally used in the cosmetic and dermatological technique.

  The form of the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention could be a cream in which the extract is associated with excipients commonly used in cosmetology or in dermatology.

  The cosmetic or dermatological compositions may also be presented in gel form in suitable excipients such as cellulose esters or other gelling agents, such as carbopol, guar gum, etc.

  The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention may also take the form of a lotion or solution in which the extract is in encapsulated form. The microspheres according to the invention may for example consist of fatty substances, agar and water. The extract can be incorporated into liposome, glycosphere-type vectors in chylomicrons, macro, micro, nano-particles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules and also be absorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.

  These emulsions have good stability and can be stored for the time necessary for use at temperatures between 0 and 50 C without sedimentation of the constituents or phase separation.

  The cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the invention may also contain additives or adjuvants customary in cosmetology or in dermatology, such as, for example, antibacterial agents or perfumes, but also extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosity polymers. , surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro - or liposoluble active ingredients, plant extracts, tissue extracts, marine extracts, synthetic actives.

  The cosmetic or dermatological use of the extract includes all body and skin care including sun products, protective and tanning anti-aging products, anti-seborrheic, tonics, products ensuring the improvement of the skin. appearance of the skin including acne treatment, skin rash, scalp treatment and hair loss.

  The cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention may also comprise other complementary active ingredients chosen for their action, for example for sun protection, the anti-wrinkle effect, the antiradical and antioxidant activity, the slimming activity, and the anti-irritant activity, pigmentation, perspiration, skin sensitivity, cellular nutrition, cellular respiration, hydration and cellular regeneration, anti-seborrhoeic treatments, as well as other active ingredients having an action on the skin. cutaneous tonicity, the protection of the hair. When the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention contain complementary active ingredients, they are generally present in the composition at a sufficiently high concentration so that they can exercise their activity.

  The cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention are preferably used daily by applying them one or more times per day. The cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention are very well tolerated, they exhibit no phototoxicity and their application to the skin for prolonged periods of time does not imply any systemic effects.

  The extract can also be used in dermocosmetic products for their anti-inflammatory and dermoprotective activity, in liquid form, powder, paste or emulsion, alone or in combination with other substances.

  For dermo-pharmaceutical use, the extract according to the present invention may be formulated in dosage form: paste, emulsion, spray in an amount of between 0.01 and 25% by weight.

  For preparations of these compositions, the extract is mixed with excipients.

  For pharmaceutical use, the extract according to the present invention can be used for the manufacture of medicaments for the treatment of certain allergies, itching, irritation, chronic redness, irritation and persistent itching and symptomatic treatment of functional disorders of capillary fragility. .

  The dermopharmaceutical compositions using the present invention may contain complementary active ingredients, present in a sufficiently large amount in the preparation so that they can exercise their activity.

Claims (10)

-9- CLAIMS   1- A method of applying an extract of fronds or spores or roots from plants belonging to the group of Polypodiophytes (Ferns) having cosmetic or dermatological properties.   2- Extract of underground parts or aerial parts of Ferns, characterized in that the extraction solvent that can be used can advantageously be chosen from the group formed by water, alcohols, ketones, esters, glycerol, apolar solvents such as hexane or isopropyl myristate, vegetable oils, synthetic oily solvents, ethers, chlorinated solvents, polyols or mixtures of at least two aforementioned miscible solvents.   3- Use of the extract according to claims 1 and 2 in cosmetic and dermatological compositions for the care of the skin and hair such as moisturizing, fortifying, styling, smoothing, veinotonic, nutritive, regulating sebum secretion properties , calming, limiting hair loss, anti-dandruff and especially for their effects on the skin of the face and body such as softening, protective, anti-aging, relaxing, toning, moisturizing, regenerating, sebum regulator, depigmenting, slimming, anti-wrinkle , draining, restructuring, revitalizing, pigmenting, depigmenting.   4- Use of the ferns extract according to claims 1 to 3 in cosmetic dermatological compositions characterized in that the extract is used either in dry form obtained by evaporation, atomization or lyophilization, or in liquid form, or in the form encapsulated in glycospheres, liposomes or other vectors such as chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanocapsules or absorbed onto powdery organic polymers, talcs and bentonites and other mineral carriers.   5- Use of the ferns extract according to claims 1 to 4 in cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that the extract is present in an amount of between 0.01 and 5%, preferably between 0.1 and 2. , 5% in powder form and present between 0.01 and 25%, preferentially between 0.5 and 10% in encapsulated form.   6 Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 5 characterized in that the extract is in any galenical form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy namely, the emulsions O / W and E / H, creams, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body oils, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprayers.   7 - Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that the extract is in any pharmaceutical dosage form namely, pasta, emulsions, sprayer.   8- Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions characterized in that it is combined with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy: extraction lipids and / or synthetic, gelling and viscosity polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, hydro - or liposoluble active ingredients, plant extracts, tissue extracts, marine extracts, active ingredients of synthetic origin.   9- Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in cosmetic or dermocosmetic applications for all body and skin care including sun protection and tanning products, after-sun products, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-seborrhoeic, tonic products, products providing skin protection and improving the appearance of the skin, including acne treatment, skin rash, treatment of the scalp and that of the hair itself. even.   10- Use of the extract according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for the manufacture of dermopharmaceutical compositions for the treatment of chronic redness, irritation and persistent itching.