FR2873570A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful: e.g. for make-up and/or care of the skin, blush, cheek rouge or eye shadow and anti-dark circle product, comprises organic liquid phase and polyester amide polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (A) for make-up and/or care, comprises organic liquid phase (I) and polyester amide polymer (II) (comprising one or more lateral grafts (aliphatic polyester group containing 2-1000 aliphatic ester units and amides and/or sulfonamides) in its main chain) in a medium. An independent claim is also included for the cosmetic process of make-up or care of human keratinous fibers, comprising application of (A) on the keratinous fibers.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP

  COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE POLYESTER AMIDE POLYMER

DESCRIPTION

TECHNICAL AREA

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, including the scalp and / or the lips, keratinous fibers such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the hair but also nails of humans comprising at least one organic liquid phase comprising a polyester amide polymer.

  The composition may be a makeup composition such as a free or compacted powder, a foundation, a blush, an anti-ring product, a blush, a lipstick, a lip balm, lip gloss, a lip or eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish or a body make-up or skin coloring product.

  A cosmetic care composition is a composition which comprises at least one active compound, in particular for treating wrinkles, for moisturizing the skin and the lips, for protecting the skin, the lips and the integuments of the ultraviolet rays, for treating acne and / or to act as a self-tanner; cosmetic care compositions also include deodorant compositions.

  The invention relates more particularly to cosmetic compositions such as make-up products, which have holding properties, but also non-transfer and stability properties.

STATE OF THE ART

  Cosmetic products or media such as media or makeup products can be classified into two broad categories according to the organic liquid-solvent phase they contain.

  The first category is that of the media which comprise organic liquid phases which are oils (liquid fatty phase): such as products for the eyes, the lips and the complexion.

  The second category are those which comprise organic liquid phases which are more polar organic solvents such as short esters, such as short alkyl acetates, for example ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; and lower alcohols such as ethanol; it is essentially nail compositions such as nail polish or nail care products.

  The two media thus defined, namely on the one hand oils and on the other hand, organic solvents such as short esters or alcohols, generally have properties and in particular different polarities.

  In both cases, however, it is generally sought to include in these media thickening agents, gelling or structuring, as well as film-forming or cofilmogenic providing the holding and the maintenance of this outfit, often with particular regard to nail polish and lip products, maintaining shine.

  By organic liquid phase, in the sense of the application means a liquid phase at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

  In the case where this liquid phase is defined as being a fatty phase, it comprises one or more liquid fatty substances at room temperature, also called oils, compatible with each other.

  By structured liquid phase, for example structured liquid fatty phase, in the sense of the demand, is meant a rigidified or gelled liquid phase.

  By liquid phase stiffened by a polyester amide according to the invention is meant that this phase does not flow under its own weight.

  In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" or "film-forming agent" means a polymer or agent capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on the keratin materials.

  By liquid phase, for example liquid fatty phase, gelled or thickened in the sense of the application, it is meant that the viscosity of this phase is increased because of the addition of the polyester amide, in this liquid phase for example in this liquid fatty phase .

  If one is interested initially in media containing a liquid phase based on oils, for example oils of various polarities) such as hydrocarbon oils or mono, di or triesters oils, one generally seeks to obtain a thickening, a structuring while maintaining the gloss, and / or one seeks to obtain a film-forming effect and a holding and a comfort with or without "non-transfer".

  In particular, in the case of compositions in solid form such as lipstick or foundation sticks, it is sought to structure the liquid fatty phase, for example using waxes, fillers or bentone. However, these compounds have the disadvantage of matifying the composition film, which is undesirable, particularly in the case of a lipstick or the consumer seeks to obtain a glossy film.

  Gelling polymers such as the polyamides with ester ends (or amides), described in particular by ARIZONA, which are polyamides obtained by condensation of a dimer fatty acid with a diamine having at least one esterified terminal carboxylic acid group, are also known. or amidated using a monofunctional monoalcohol or monoamine compound, such as those described in documents US 5,998,570, US 5,783,657, US 6,503,522 or US 6,268,466. These polyamides are capable of gelling media oily rather apolar.

  In order to gel more polar media such as triglyceride oils, polyamides with ester ends are available, incorporating into their backbones hydrophilic polyether blocks, for example the polyamides called "PAOPA" by the company ARIZONA, which are described in particular in the US Pat. US 2003 00 65084 and US 6,399,713.

  Also known are polyamides with ester ends incorporating in the backbone some ester bonds (but not polyester) obtained by copolymerizing a mixture of a fatty monoalcohol, a dimer fatty acid, a diamine and a polyol such as described in US 2002 01 87170 and WO 02/092663.

  However, the incorporation of hydrophilic sequences in these polyamides has the drawback of increasing the water sensitivity of the composition (for example to saliva, sweat or tears), and / or of providing a character amphiphile that is not desirable in many applications and is at the expense of the outfit.

  In the case of compositions containing a liquid phase based on short-type organic solvents, as is the case in particular with nail polishes, gelling agents such as bentone or silicas which tend to matify the film are conventionally used. varnish and do not prevent the sedimentation of pigments in the long term.

  In addition, the polyamide gelling agents mentioned above are not compatible with media as polar as short esters.

  It follows from the foregoing that there is a need for thickeners, gelling agents or structuring agents both for cosmetic compositions comprising oil-based liquid fatty phases and for cosmetic compositions comprising solvent-based media in particular based on oils. short esters and / or alcohols, whatever the polarity of these media.

  The object of the present invention is to provide cosmetic makeup and / or care compositions comprising a wide range of non-aqueous oils and solvents, which meet, inter alia, all the needs listed above, which do not do not have the disadvantages, limitations, defects and disadvantages of the thickened compositions, structured and / or film-forming properties of the prior art and that solve the problems of the prior art.

  This and other objects are achieved according to the invention by a cosmetic care and / or makeup composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: an organic liquid phase; and at least one polyester amide polymer, linear or branched, having in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more side grafts to its main chain: E at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups.

  By "branched" polymer is meant a polymer having a backbone comprising at least one side chain or graft hanging from the main chain or located at the end of the main chain.

  The cosmetic compositions of the invention are fundamentally different from the compositions of the prior art in that they contain a specific polyester amide polymer which, surprisingly, makes it possible to structure, gel and thicken the composition as well as to provide this composition with film-forming properties.

  Some of the polyester amide polymers included in the compositions according to the invention are known, but in applications totally different from those according to the invention, such as hot melt adhesives and plastics, and their incorporation into cosmetic compositions is not suggested. in the prior art.

  The specific family of polyesters-amides used according to the invention, more specifically the polyamides, with a sequence and / or with aliphatic polyester grafts according to the invention, have surprisingly been found to possess thickening, structuring and gelling properties as well as oil-based media only for solvent-based media.

  The polyester amides of the composition according to the invention may also, surprisingly, act as film-forming agents and impart to said composition film-forming properties.

  These polymers thus make it possible to obtain a film of composition giving non-tacky to the touch, having excellent adhesion properties, holding properties (thanks to the presence of polar but non-hydrophilic units) and / or non-tackiness. transfer, resistant to mechanical aggression, water, sweat, tears and saliva, these properties being associated with an excellent feeling of comfort.

  In particular, in the case of nail polishes, the polyester amides of the compositions according to the invention can be used as film-forming or co-film-forming agents in combination with nitrocellulose, for example.

  The polyester amides included in the compositions of the invention incorporate sequences that are not polyethers but polar polyesters but non-hydrophilic that do not provide an affinity for water, saliva, sweat or tears: the polarity is thus increased. without bringing hydrophilicity.

  The fact that this type of specific polymer can also carry out structuring, gelation of a very large variety of cosmetic compositions and / or the formation of a film from these compositions is totally surprising and unexpected.

  Advantageously, the specific polymers included in the compositions of the invention can simultaneously structure a composition and give it film-forming properties.

  In particular, thanks to the specific polymers incorporated in the compositions according to the invention, it is possible to structure, gel, thicken very different cosmetic compositions, and to communicate film-forming properties to cosmetic compositions containing different organic liquid phases, which they are liquid fatty phases, for example consisting mainly of oils, or else organic phases consisting, for example, mainly of one or more solvents, such as short esters and / or alcohols, in the case of the compositions for nails.

  The effects and advantages provided by the compositions of the invention both as regards the properties of the compositions themselves and the properties of the deposits or films obtained from them are obtained independently of the organic liquid medium included in these compositions. , whereas in the prior art it was most often required to resort to different compounds depending on the medium, and more to have recourse to different compounds depending on whether one wanted to achieve the thickening or communicate film-forming properties to the composition.

  Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the presence in the polymers according to the invention of aliphatic polyester blocks and / or grafts which are well soluble in oils and organic solvents such as esters, provides a better compatibility of these macromolecules in the Formulation medium.

  Thanks to the particular polyamide polymers with polyester blocks incorporated in the compositions of the invention, it is also possible to gel, structure and thicken the compositions which contain solvent-based liquid phases, such as short esters, while ensuring non-sedimentation in all kinds of temperature conditions and for a long time, as well as the brightness of the final film and without altering the mechanical properties.

  As for the oil media, with the structure of the polyester polyamides included in the compositions of the invention, it is possible to control the polymer rather towards a film-forming / holding application than towards a gelling application by: - increasing the degree of polymerization of the polyester blocks, simultaneously increasing the overall molecular weight of the final polymer, decreasing the number of amide groups in the chain.

  In contrast to oily media, for these nail polish applications, elastomeric film formers will not be sought, but rather polymers that are sufficiently hard, rigid but not brittle.

  To increase rigidity, it will operate by: - using more rigid polyester sequences while remaining soluble in solvents such as nail polish solvents, - incorporating cycles (cycloaliphatic, aromatic) by choice of reagents.

  The invention applies, in particular, in the case where the organic liquid phase is a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil, not only to lip makeup products such as lipsticks, lip pencils, glosses but also to skin care products, including scalp, and lips, such as sunscreen products of the skin, face or lips, or lip balms, make-up of the skin, both of the face and of the human body, such as foundations poured into sticks or cups, anti-ring products and ephemeral tattoo products, cleaning products including stick, and products of eye makeup such as eyeliners, especially in pencil form, and mascaras including breads for keratinous fibers (eyelashes, eyebrows, hair).

  The invention also applies to make-up or nail care products, and in particular in the case where the organic liquid phase comprises at least one organic solvent, with nail polishes and make-up removers for the nails.

  The composition according to the invention may contain one or more structuring polymers.

  Organic liquid phase The composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic, non-aqueous liquid phase.

  In a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, said organic liquid phase is a liquid fatty phase.

  The definition of a fatty phase has already been given above. 30

  In a second embodiment of the composition according to the invention, said organic liquid phase comprises at least one solvent and is then defined by the term "liquid solvent phase".

  The organic phase, for example the fatty phase or the solvent phase may form a continuous phase of the composition.

  The total organic liquid phase of the composition may represent from 1 to 99%, preferably from 5 to 75%, more preferably from 10 to 60% of the total weight of the composition.

  Liquid fatty phase According to a first embodiment, the organic liquid phase of the composition is a liquid fatty phase.

  The liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (105Pa), also called an oil, generally chosen from hydrocarbon, silicone and fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

  An oil as indicated above is a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound.

  Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil and optionally at least one silicone oil and / at least one fluorinated oil. Indeed, the polyamide esters according to the invention are soluble only in hydrocarbon oils.

  The liquid fatty phase of the composition may be a continuous fatty phase.

  The oils can be volatile or nonvolatile, polar or apolar.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any nonaqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). The volatile oil (s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 8000 Pa (0.01 to 60 mmHg). ).

  By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).

  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and phosphorus atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. . The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of "Isopars" or "permetyls".

  A hydrocarbonaceous volatile oil chosen from C8-C16r branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoparaffins, such as isododecane, isodecane, and isohexadecane, is preferably used.

  The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 65% by weight and better still from 2 to at 50% by weight.

  As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may be made in particular of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; ; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, paraffin oils and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as the oils of formula RaCOORb in which Ra represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and Rb represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that Ra + Rb is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate and hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the hydrocarbon oil, an oil chosen from silicone and / or fluorinated oils, which are volatile or nonvolatile. Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity S 6 centistokes (6 10-6 m2 / s), and having in particular 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 3 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 95% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 1% to 50% by weight (in particular 0.1% to 10%).

  Generally, the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20 to 75%.

  Liquid organic solvent phase According to a second embodiment, the organic liquid phase of the composition is a liquid organic solvent phase comprising at least one volatile or non-volatile organic solvent.

  By solvent is meant an organic compound, non-aqueous, liquid at room temperature and different from the oils listed above in the context of the description of the liquid fatty phase.

  When the composition comprises such an organic solvent phase or medium comprising an organic solvent, mention may be made, as an organic solvent that can be used in the composition according to the invention, comprising a polyamide with polyesters: the short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 atoms total carbon), such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate; Ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol or cyclohexanol; glycols which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; aldehydes which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; carbonates such as propylene carbonate and dimethyl carbonate; acetals such as methylal; and - their mixtures.

  Preferably, the solvent is a volatile solvent selected from short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.

  Generally, the organic solvent phase (organic solvent or mixture of organic solvents) liquid represents from 5 to 95% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 85% by weight.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise an aqueous phase consisting essentially of water or a mixture of water and of a water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.) as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol , dipropylene glycol, 03-04 ketones, C2-04 aldehydes and mixtures thereof.

  The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 55% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

  According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous. Anhydrous composition is understood to mean a composition comprising an aqueous phase as defined above in a proportion of less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 5% and better still, less than or equal to 3%, or even free from water.

  Polyester amide structuring and / or film-forming polymer The polyester amide polymer (s) of the composition are preferably solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). Advantageously, said polymers are soluble in the organic liquid phase of the composition, that is to say soluble at a concentration of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in the oil or majority solvent by weight of the liquid organic phase, at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 150 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (105 Pa), depending on whether it is a liquid fatty phase or a liquid solvent phase.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound comprising at least two repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units, and more preferably 10 repeating units.

  In the composition of the invention, the polyester amide polymer generally represents from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 45%, more preferably from 1 to 40%, and more preferably from 4 to 30% by weight. dry matter weight of the total weight of the composition.

  Moreover, in the case where the composition comprises a liquid fatty phase, the weight ratio of structuring polymer / fatty phase is preferably from 0.1 to 50%.

  According to the invention, the polyester amide polymer of the composition is linear or branched and comprises in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts to its main chain: E at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups.

  Advantageously, the polyester amide is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).

  Advantageously, the polyester amide is linear (unbranched) and comprises in its main chain: E at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups chosen from amide and / or sulphonamide groups .

  These polymers may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR3 ## in which: 1) the groups -Q- identical or different represent a group chosen from: a) divalent, hydrocarbon-based, linear, branched or cyclic, C 2 -C 50, (-R 3 -) saturated or unsaturated groups, such as alkylene groups, which may contain, for example, in their chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S; and / or Si, and which may be substituted in part or in whole by fluorine atoms (as a substituent for all or part of the hydrogen atoms), b) divalent aliphatic polyester groups (-POL-), which may contain in their main chain or in the form of groups or side grafts, one or more heteroatoms selected from 0, N, S, and / or Si, and may be substituted in part or in whole by fluorine atoms.

  These divalent aliphatic polyester radicals result either from the polyaddition of at least one C 3-20 lactone, which may or may not be substituted by a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, or from the polycondensation of at least one C 4 -C 50 aliphatic diacid, linear or branched or cyclic, and at least one C4-50 aliphatic diol, linear or branched or cyclic.

  2) m is an integer from 2 to 3000, preferably from 2 to 2000; 3) the groups -A- identical or different, represent divalent groups chosen from the following groups: ester Y corresponding to the formula: - (C = O) O- or -O- (C = O) - - amide Z with the formula: - (CO) NH or -NH- (C = O) -; sulfonamide: (C = O) SO2- or -SO2- (C = O) -30 with the proviso that the polymer (I) has at least two amide or sulfonamide groups; 4) -R1-, -R2-: identical or different, represent a group chosen from: a) divalent hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched or cyclic such as alkylene and arylene, preferably alkylene, C 2 -C 50, saturated or unsaturated groups may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, and / or Si, and may be substituted in whole or in part by fluorine atoms (as a substituent for all or part of the hydrogen atoms).

  These hydrocarbon-based groups, for example those C 2 -C 50 alkylene groups, are preferably: either linear or branched C1-20 and may comprise in addition from 1 to 5 amide and / or sulphonamide groups, or in Cao-50, branched, and which may comprise rings and non-conjugated unsaturations and resulting from the polycondensation with: either a dimer fatty acid (as defined in US-A-5,411,729 of SILTECH), or a dimer-diol (as defined in the article R. Hofer, European Coating Journal, March 2000, pages 26-37), either a dimer diamine (as defined in the same journal), or C5-C6 cycloalkane groups.

  b) the divalent groups providing a lateral branch, such as the unit of the polyester amide polymer, has the following formula: R5 + A R1 A R2-1 - A U P, n 2 R4

P

  in which: U is a C3-C20 tetravalent hydrocarbon radical which may contain (in its chain) one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si, and linked to a monovalent radical R4 such as H or an alkyl group; C1-C4alkyl; or else U is a trivalent N-nitrogen atom (in this case -R4 is absent) carrying three divalent C2-C8r alkylene groups and which may contain (in their chain) a heteroatom such as O; two of the divalent alkylene groups then connect the nitrogen atom in the main chain of the polymer, the third connecting the nitrogen atom to a side group or graft; - A-, -R1-, and -R2- have the same meaning as before; p and n are integers ranging from 1 to 1000; R 5 is is a monovalent radical such as H or a C 1-10 alkyl group.

  Another definition of the ester polymers of formula (I) included in the compositions of the invention can be given from the reagents used for the synthesis of these polyamide esters.

  Polyesters amides comprising at least one unit defined by formula (I) above may be obtained by reaction of at least three reagents chosen from groups of reagents a), b), c), d), e), f), g), h), i) and j) following, at least three of these reagents each belonging to a different reagent group: a) aliphatic diols, HO-R3OH, where R3 represents a chosen group among divalent, hydrocarbon, linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 50 groups, such as saturated or unsaturated alkylene groups, which may contain in their chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si and which may be substituted in partly or totally by fluorine atoms; b) the aliphatic polyol diols HO-POL-OH, which may contain in their main chain or in the form of side groups or grafts one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or Si, said divalent aliphatic polyester groups resulting either from the polyaddition of at least one C 9-20 lactone, whether or not substituted by a C 1-6 alkyl group, or of the polycondensation of at least one linear or branched or cyclic C 9 -C 50 aliphatic diacid and at least one diol linear, branched or cyclic C4-50 aliphatic; c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, HOOC-R2-COOH, where R2 represents a group chosen from divalent, hydrocarbon, linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 50 groups, such as alkylene or arylene, preferably alkylene, saturated or unsaturated groups; , which may contain in their chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si, and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, and their acid chloride and acid anhydride derivatives; d) the primary aliphatic diamines H2N-R2-NH2, R2 represents a group chosen from divalent hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched, or cyclic C2-50, such as alkylene or arylene, preferably alkylene, saturated or unsaturated groups, which may contain in their chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms; e) C3-C20 lactones which may or may not be substituted by one or more C1-C6 alkyl groups which may comprise rings, unsaturations or heteroatoms such as N, O, S, and / or Si (f) C3-C20 lactams substituted or not by a or more C 1-6 alkyl groups which may include rings, unsaturations or heteroatoms such as N, O, S, and / or Si; g) hydroxy acids HOOC-R2-OH, R2 being defined as -R2- dicarboxylic acids c); h) aminoalcohols H2N-R3-OH: R3 being defined as R3 of the diols defined in a); i) amino acids H2N-R2-COOH: R2 being defined as -R2- dicarboxylic acids c); j) the co-reactive trifunctional compounds of the above, namely the compounds of formula: in which: the identical or different Xs represent a group chosen from the -COOH groups and their COCl and anhydride derivatives, the -OH and -NH 2 groups; and R 4 represents H or a C 1-4 alkyl group and wherein - U represents a C 3-20 hydrocarbon tetravalent radical which may contain in its chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si, - or U is a trivalent nitrogen atom bonded to x via alkylene groups -R6-, which may be identical or different, to C 2 to C 8 these alkylenes which may contain a heteroatom such as O, provided that in the case where U is trivalent, so -R4 is absent.

  Among the polyesteramides defined by formula (I), preferred families are those in which the polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to formulas (II) (III) (IIIa) (IV) (IVa) (V) (VI) or (VII) given below: Formula (II) wherein: + rn (II) - R2-, m, and -POL- are defined as above, Y- represents an ester group: -O- (C = O) -or- (C = O) -O-, -Z- represents an amide group: -NH- (C = O) or - (C = O =) -NH-.

  They can be obtained by reacting at least: a polyester prepolymer: HO-POL-OH, a carboxylic acid dihydrogen HOOC-R2-COOH in which an acid chloride derivative, or anhydride thereof, a diamine H2N-R2-NH2, the R2 of the diamine being identical or different from that of the diacid.

  The production of such polymers and their use in a different field of cosmetics is described in US-A-4,150,002 to SCHERING.

  It should be noted that the polymers whose units correspond to the preferred formulas (II) to (VII) may furthermore satisfy one of the following characteristics: a) In the case where the organic liquid phase is a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil, preferably consisting predominantly of one or more oils, it will be preferred that at least one of the HOOC-R2-COOH diacids, be a dimer fatty acid (or that one of the diamines be a dimer diamine , which is less common).

  b) In the case where the organic liquid phase comprises at least one volatile organic solvent, preferably consists mainly of one or more volatile organic solvents, for example in the case of a varnish ester medium. on the contrary, it is preferable to use a C4 to C12 diacid, or a mixture of a dimer fatty acid and a short diacid (for example adipic acid); that is, R2 groups represent a group derived from a C4 to C8 diacid or a mixture of a dimer fatty acid and a short diacid.

  c) Formulas (II) to (VII) of the preferred polyester amides may further comprise one or more other units (i.e., units different from the units comprising at least one aliphatic polyester group and at least two groups chosen from amide and / or sulphonamide groups) due to the optional introduction into said polymer of compounds chosen from: - prepolymers of non-polyester nature, namely different from polyesters, such as polyethers and polysiloxanes, such as polydialkylsiloxanes with -OH ends, in addition to the obligatory aliphatic polyesters; - diacids, diols, and aromatic diamines; the trifunctional reactive molecules introducing branches or grafts such as triols, triamines or tricarboxylic acids, provided that the trifunctional reactive molecules are in a smaller quantity than the difunctional reactive molecules.

  Other preferred polyester amide polymers comprise a unit having the following formula (III) or formula (IIIa): embedded image in which -Z- represents an amide group: - ( C = O) -NH or -NH- (C = O) and -POL- represents a polyester group: in which R2 and n are as defined above and Y is an ester group of formula -O- (C = O) ) or (C = O) -O-.

  These polymers are obtained in particular starting from:

Y

  H2N R2 NH2 + R2 is caprolactone, being a lactone, preferably whose ring opening polymerization is initiated by one of the -NH2 ends of the diamine.

  The preparation of such polymers and their non-cosmetic use is described in WO-A-99 42514 of BAYER.

  The polymer comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (III), which has a -OH at each chain end may moreover be used as a reagent for a subsequent condensation via its terminal -OHs with: one or more HOOC-R2-COOH diacids, of which -R2 are identical to -R2- of the prepolymer of formula (III), or different thereof; in the complementary presence of one or more diols or diamines HO-R2-OH and / or H2N-R2-NH2 (the respective -R2- being identical or different).

  This subsequent polycondensation then leads to a polyester amide polymer which comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (IIIbis): ## STR2 ## in which: W represents a group -A-R2; -A, such that -YR2-Y ', a group -Y-R2-Y-R2-Y- or -Y-R2-Z-R2-Z-, -A- represents an ester group -Y- or a group amide -Ztels as defined above; and POL, m, and R2 are as defined above.

  Other preferred polyester amide polymers comprise a unit having the following formula (IV) or formula (IVa): ## STR2 ## wherein Y is an ester group, Z is an amide group, and R2, R3 and n have the meaning already given above.

  These polymers can be obtained by reaction between a diol of formula HO-R 3 -OH and a lactam, for example ε-caprolactam (CH 2) C CO NH, by opening the lactam ring on the terminal OH of the diol.

  As for the polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III), these polymers, the synthesis of which is described in the aforementioned WO-A-99 42514 BAYER, can be used as reactive prepolymers of a subsequent condensation with: one or more diacids H00-R2-COOH, in the presence of a complement, preferably one or more HO-R3-OH diols, to give a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (IVa). Wherein: V represents a group -Y-R2-Y- such that -OCO-R2--000-, or -Y-R2-Y- such that -OCO-R2--000-, or a more complex group such as -OCO-R2-000-R2-0-0O3 optionally further comprising a diamine coupler; and Y, R2, Z, R3, n and m are as defined above.

  Another family of preferred polyester amide polymers comprises a unit of formula (V) below.

  It is this time polyesteramides obtained by coaddition between a lactone and a lactam, initiated for example by a monoalcohol, a monoacid or a monoamine. m

  Embedded image in which: R 2 are identical or different and are as defined above, Y is an ester, and -Z-an amide ( see above), - n and p are as defined above. These polymers are obtained by polyaddition between one or more lactone (s) and one or more lactam (s). Such polyesteramides are described in US 6,486,257 and US 2002/0188067 as well as in JP-A- 06200016.

  Another family of preferred polymers comprises units of formula (VI) below.

  These polymers are similar to those of the formula (V), obtained by a joint polyaddition of lactone (s) and lactam (s) initiated by a diol H0-R3-OH or a polyesterdiol HO-POL-OH ( the diol and the polyester diol being both symbolized by HO-Q-OH) (--A R2 -) - (A p R2-) YQY (-R2 A) ((VI)) in which the group - A- is Y or Z amide, with the proviso that if the -A- groups of - (R2-A) are ester (-Y-) bonds; then -A- of - (R2-A) p- are amides (-Z-) and vice versa; Q, n and p being as defined above.

  Such polymers and their use in a non-cosmetic field are described in WO-A-0042091 of DSM and US-A-3, 674,837 to BAYER.

  A last preferred family of polymers comprises at least one unit of formula (VII) below.

  These polymers have a polyesteramide structure grafted with grafts containing: at least two repeating units - (A-R2-), A and R2 having the above definitions, - at least two amide groups are located on these grafts (it is sufficient that at least two grafts have at least one amide group).

  The general formula of these graft copolymers is then: ## STR1 ## in which: 1) -Y- represents an ester group 0 --- C ---- or C --- O 2) -R 1 - represents -R3- (from a diol) or -POL-, -R3- and POL have already been defined above; 3) the same or different groups -A-

O

  represent an ester or amide group 0 C 4) r which is the DP of the grafts represents an integer 2 to 1000 and m is as defined above; 5) represents: C NH - is a C3-20 hydrocarbon tetravalent radical, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si, or a trivalent nitrogen atom bonded to -A- by groups divalent identical or different C2-C8 alkylenes -R6-, which groups may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, and / or Si, with the proviso that if U is trivalent, then -R4 is absent; 6) the groups X 'located at the end of each graft are identical or different and represent a group -AR $ where R8 represents H, or a linear or branched or cyclic C1-C30 alkyl group, or a divalent alkylene group -R9 in C1-30 linear or branched, or a divalent single bond linking another graft of another polymer chain (partial crosslinking); and at least two grafts have at least one amide group -Z to satisfy formula (VII). R4

U

  Among the groups, the following groups of formulas are preferred: R4

I

R7 i R7 R7 i R7 R7 R7

I I

  wherein the same or different R7 groups are linear or branched C 1 -C 10, preferably C 2 -C 8, alkylene divalent groups.

  The polymer according to the invention generally has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 500 000, preferably from 5000 to 250 000.

  It can be a block copolymer, sequenced or a graft polymer.

  Family of reagents necessary for the manufacture of the polymers of the invention.

  These reagents have already been described above: at least three of them must belong to the following classes (at least three belonging to different classes).

  1) aliphatic diols HO-R3-OH 2) aliphatic polyester HO-POL-OH diols 3) aliphatic carboxylic acid HOOC-R2-COOH (or acid chloride derivatives, acid anhydrides) 4) primary aliphatic diamines H2N-R2-NH2, 5 ) C3-20 lactones 6) C3-20 lactams 7) Hydroxy acids HO-R2-COOH 8) Amino alcohols HO-R2-NH2 9) Amino acids HOOC-R2-NH2 10) Triols, triamines, triacids carboxylic acids.

  Among them, the reagents of classes 1) to 6) are the most important, with optionally also the reagents of class 10) if we want branches, namely side groups or grafts.

  Aliphatic or cycloaliphatic diols HO-R3-OH For R3 reference is made to the definition of formula (I) given above.

  Among these diols, mention may be made of: ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,3-butanadiol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,4-diol, 5-pentane diol, hexane-1,6-diol, 1,6-cyclohexanediol, 1,10 decanediol, 1,12-dodecanediol, dipropylene glycol, furanedimethanol, cyclohexane dimethanol, glycerol, and their mixtures also diol dimers (article R. HOFER, European Coating Journal, March 2000, pages 26-27) which generally have a -R3- C36-50 depending on their origin.

  These dimers-diols include in particular those sold by the company COGNIS under the trade names SOVERMOL 908 (97% purity) and SOVERMOL 650 NS (68% purity).

  In addition to the "classical" diols mentioned above and dimers-diols, it is also possible to include for these syntheses and in the definition of HO-R 3 -OH: a) natural or synthetic oils bearing 2 or even 3 hydroxyl groups (therefore diols and / or triols), for example castor oil, phytantriol, monoalkylglycerols (with a C2-22 alkyl group), alkyl pentaerythritol diesters (with two equal or different C2-22 alkyl groups), tartrates of dialkyls (esterified on acidic groups with C2-22 alcohols).

  In a particular embodiment of the invention, the oils carrying two hydroxyl groups per chain, and preferably the monoglycerides of structure: ## STR2 ## in which "Alkyl" represents a linear or branched alkyl group, C2_30 Long chain aliphatic diols can also be used. Advantageously, the diols of structure HO-D-OH where D is a linear or branched alkyl chain containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, will be used. These diols are marketed by ATOCHEM under the name VIKINOL. Also mentioned are 1,12 dodecane diol and 1,10 decanediol, the latter being marketed by COGNIS under the trade name SOVERMOL 110.

  It is also possible to use the diols of structure: ## STR1 ## in which "Alkyl" represents a linear or branched alkyl group of C2-30, preferably C8-30 b) Polydienes with hydroxyl ends as those defined in French Patent FR-2,782,723, including butadiene, isoprene and 1,3-pentadiene homo and copolymers of MW of between 500 and 5000. They may be, for example, polybutadiene with hydroxyl ends marketed by ELF-ATOCHEM under the brands: POLY BD-45H and POLY BDR-20LM. These products are preferably used hydrogenated.

  The oligomers of polyisobutylene at the end a, hydroxyl co.

  Aliphatic or cycloaliphatic carboxylic acid diacids or derivatives: acid chlorides, dimethyl esters (for trans-esterification) or acid anhydride Examples of the dicarboxylic acids or their acid chloride derivatives, anhydrides or diesters include, for example, succinic acids. glutaric and adipic, pimelic, azelaic, sebacic, suberic, and cyclohexanedicarboxylic, dodecanedicarboxylic can be added tartrates having both free carboxylic acid groups and the two -OH groups were esterified with alcohols C2-22 (identical alkyl groups or different). It is possible to add the citrates for which a -COOH group has been esterified with a C2-22 aliphatic alcohol and, preferably, whose -OH group has also been etherified or esterified with a C2-22 alcohol.

  The aliphatic amides of glutamic acid can also be added: ## STR1 ##

O

  Wherein "Alkyl" represents a C2-22 alkyl group.

  Finally, and most importantly, the preferred dicarboxylic acids include C36-50 dimeric fatty acids such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,411,429 to SILTECH.

  Polyester diols or polycarbonates diols These are polyesters produced by a polyesterification reaction of a diol and a diacid. Polyester diols such as the reaction products of polyols such as ethylene glycol may be mentioned. propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanadiol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,4-diol, hexane-1,6-diol, 1, 6-cyclohexane diol, furanedimethanol, cyclohexane dimethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol which are respectively tri and tetra-functional and their mixtures with dicarboxylic acids or their ester-forming derivatives, for example succinic acid, glutaric acid and adipic, pimelic, azelaic, sebacic, suberic, or dimethylsters thereof.

  Polyester diols resulting from the condensation between: a diol as mentioned above and a dimer fatty acid, a diacid as mentioned above and a diol dimer, a polyester resulting from polyesterification between acid, can also be mentioned. fat dimer and diol dimer.

  Polyesters-diols resulting from the condensation between: a "conventional" dicarboxylic acid and a diol and / or triol which is a natural or synthetic oil as defined above, a "conventional" diol and a diacid are also mentioned; and / or triacid carboxylic derivative of natural or synthetic compound oils (tartrates, citrates, etc ...) as defined above, - a diol and / or triol which is a natural or synthetic oil and a di and / or carboxylic triacid derived from oil to the natural compound as mentioned above.

  Polyesters Obtained by Opening Lactone Cycles to Give Polyesters-diols Mention may also be made of polyesters with diol ends obtained by polyaddition of a lactone initiated by a diol (diol as defined above).

  The lactones are defined below. The most important is of course poly (s-caprolactone) -diol.

  Mention may in particular be made of the poly (ε-caprolactone) -diol of PM 500-5000 marketed by Solvay under the name "CAPA Polycaprolactones Diols". Although less preferred than poly (scaprolactone) diols, mention may also be made of homo and copolymers obtained by ring opening lactide and / or glycolide, and having diol ends: polylactides, polyglycolides, copoly (lactide / glycolide) and the various mixtures racemates. Since the latter polyesters are highly crystalline and have high melting points, most of them will be used in a mixture with other polyesters which are poorly crystalline or not crystalline.

  Poly (lactide / caprolactone) polyesters may also be mentioned.

  Polycarbonate diols Polycarbonates are particular polyesters.

  Polycarbonate diols, such as those described in WO-A-98/44015, may also be mentioned.

  These polycarbonate diols generally correspond to the formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R 5 is independently an alkylene radical, linear or branched, optionally substituted, preferably having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, R 5 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical. or linear or branched, optionally substituted, or trivalent alkynyl, preferably having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, s is an integer equal to 2 or 3 and t is such that the weight average molar mass of polymers is 300 to 10000 preferably 300 to 5000, and more preferably 300 to 2000.

  Poly (12-hydroxystearate) -diol It is also possible to use a branched long chain alkyl polyester having at least two reactive groups, for example hydroxyl-terminated poly (12-hydroxystearate). This polyester is obtained by self-condensation of 1,2-hydroxystearic acid on itself, then reaction with a polyol to consume the residual acid groups.

  This oligomer has the structure CH2 CH3 CH2) COC CH2OH (CH2) ## STR3 ## where the sum m + n is such that the oligomer has 25 a number average molecular weight in the order of

HO l CH3 n 2000 and hydroxyl functionalization of the order of 1.8.

  The synthesis is described in RADHAKRISHNAN, P.N., European Polymer Journal, 35, 2185-92 (1999) and in Indian Patent 143864.

  Preferred polyesters-diols Among the polyesters-diols mentioned here: polyesters-diols are preferred to the polycarbonates-diols, among the polyesters-diols it will be preferred: a) the poly-ε-caprolactone diols as well as the copolymers of ε-caprolactone with other latones: and that among the polyesters obtained by lactone ring opening. The ring opening giving an OH-terminated polycaprolactone is generally by priming with a diol. There is no preference here on the choice of diol.

  This preference will concern in particular polyamides intended for applications in nail polish.

  b) the polyesters resulting from the copolymerization between: linear C2-C10 short or branched cyclic di-carboxylic acids with linear, branched or cyclic C2-10 short diols: for the organic solvent-based liquid phases, in particular in the applications nail polish, for oil media, on the other hand the polyesters resulting from the reaction between a long carboxylic acid (C8-50), for example in particular dimer fatty acid, and an alcohol C2-50 (without specificity but preferably long C8-50) or Conversely. But also structures such as fatty acid dimer + diol dimer.

  In general, the molecular weight (or weight average weight) of these polyester diols is preferably from 500 to 5000.

  Primary or secondary aliphatic or cycloaliphatic diamines The amines correspond to the formula H2N-R2-NH2, which is preferably primary.

  We can refer to the definition of -R2-15 given for the general formula (I).

  Among these diamines, mention will be made more particularly of: a) ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane; 1,3-diamino, 2-methylpropane 1,3-diamino, dimethyl 2,2-propane; 1,5-diaminopentane; 1,6-diaminohexane, and isomers of diaminohexane; 1,6-diaminocyclohexane; 1,6-diaminooctane, 1,9-diaminononane; 1,10-diaminodecane 1,12-diaminododecane, etc .; 1,6-diamino, trimethyl-2,2,4-hexane; isophorone diamine; piperazine; lysine.

  the diamine dimers, derived from dimeric fatty acids and described in the article by R. HOFER, European Coatings Journal, March 2000, pages 26-37.

  c) the following diamino oils sold by the company AKZO NOBEL cocopropylene diamine (distilled or not) DUOMEEN C or CD, hydrogenated tallowpropylene diamine DUOMEEN HT, C16-22 alkylpropylene diamine DUOMEEN M, oleylpropylene diamine DUOMEEN 0, Tallowpropylene diamine DUOMEEN T. d) hydrophilic diamines with a polyoxyethylene backbone of different PM, or copoly (oxyethylene / oxypropylene) of different PM, or poly (oxypropylene) of different PM such as for example alpha, omega-bis (2-aminopropyl) -polyethylene glycol and alpha, omega - bis (2-aminopropyl) polypropylene glycol, marketed under the general reference JEFFAMINE by the company TEXACO.

  Lactones are cyclic monoesters of general formula: with -R2-: C2-19 linear or branched alkylene, H substituted or not, one can for example refer to the document WO-A0042091 of DSM page 13 .

  unsubstituted lactones: propiolactone; (3-Byturolactone, (3-valerolactone, 8-valerolactone, 8-caprolactone, E-caprolactone (which is the preferred lactone), co-enantholactone, co-caprylolactone, wlaurolactone, substituted lactones, on C-rings of the or more than one H may be substituted with a C1-22 alkyl group This alkyl group may itself be linear or branched or ring-shaped, may contain one or more unsubstituted unsaturations, and one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, Si.

  There may be mentioned (3-methyl-8-valerolactone and α-methyl-scaprolactone.

  cyclic esters which are no longer monoesters but diesters and which for example correspond to the following formula:

O

  wherein T is hydrogen or C1 to C10 alkyl.

  If T is CH 3 the compound is lactide.

  If T is H the compound is glycolide.

  By taking different optical isomers: it will be possible to use the following compounds: L, L lactide; D, D lactide; D, lactide. It should be noted that lactones and lactides can copolymerize together.

  Of these cyclic esters, ε-caprolactone will be preferred.

  The lactams C3_20 The lactams, correspond to the generic formula wherein R2 represents a C3-19 alkylene group substituted or not.

  The same terminology as for lactones applies and all that has been indicated above by lactones can be integrally transposed to lactams.

  The same cyclic monoamide compounds corresponding to the above-mentioned lactones: γ-butyrolactam; E-caprolactam; etc ....

  Similarly, lactams corresponding to the above lactones in which one or more hydrogens of the ring carbons are substituted with a C1-22 alkyl group defined in the same way as for the lactones.

  Hydroxy acids Among the hydroxy acids, there may be mentioned a, 13, y and co hydroxy carboxylic acids. There may be mentioned 12-hydroxystearic acid, alkyl citrates having 2-COOH esterified with the same C1-C30 alcohol (or with two different alcohols); malic acid monomers (one of 2-COOH is esterified with a C1-22 alcohol), lactic acid, ricinoleic acid.

  The aminoalcohols The aminoalcohols correspond to the following formula HO-R2NH2, R2 being already defined above.

  For example, there may be mentioned amino 2-, methyl 2-, propanol 1.

  Amino Acids The amino acids correspond to the following formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R 2 has already been defined above.

  For example, 6-amino-hexanoic acid, 9-aminonanoic acid, 11-aminoundecanoic acid, 7-aminoheptanoic acid, lysine and amino acids having the following general formula: ## STR2 ## in which wherein R represents a branched alkyl or alkyl chain as in leucine or a benzyl group as in phenylalanine.

  Reagents Introducing Lateral Grafts To create such lateral grafts (and at least two of these grafts must contain at least one amide group), there are a priori 2 routes: a) A trifunctional "monomer" reagent is used in the medium polycondensation.

  In this case, the grafts are formed "at the same time" as the skeleton: polymerization and attachment of the graft is at the same time as the polymerization of the skeleton since in both cases it is a polycondensation reaction with: HO R1 OH, HOOC R2-COOH, H2N R2 NH2 + X R2 XX with -R1- = -R3- or -POL-, X- = HO-, H2N- and / or HOOC-. As a trifunctional compound: it is possible to envisage: tricarboxylic acids or their derivatives; triols; triamines, (i.e., and formula (I)) may be a trivalent alkylene radical or a: R7 N R7 R7 as defined above.

  As tricarboxylic acid or derivative, mention may be made of the monoalkyl ether or monoalkyl ester derivatives of citric acid; 1,3,5-tricarboxylic pentane acids; and 3 (carboxymethyl) heptanedioic acids.

  It is also possible to use the trimeric fatty acids obtained by condensation of not two but three molecules of unsaturated fatty acids.

  As triol, mention may be made of: trimethylolpropane, glycerol, castor oil, 1,2,3 or 1,2,6 isomers of hexane triol, sorbitol monoesters, pentaerythritol monoesters, etc. , the trimer-triols equivalents -OH trimer fatty acids, phytantriol, etc ...

  Triethanolamine corresponds to the particular case R7 i R7 R7 N- (CH2OH) 3.

  As triamine, there may be mentioned: melamine, diethylene triamine, 3,3'-diaminodipropylamine, spermidine, 4,4'-diaminodibutylamine, 6,6-diaminodihexylamine. 10

  b) We use a graft already made with a single reactive end, that is to say a macromonomer P-X.

  P represents a polyester or polyamide (at least one amide unit is required in two grafts); and X is -COOH, -OH or -NH 2.

  This route is only usable if the P-X macromonomer is reacted on a polymer skeleton already made having reactive functions complementary to X. For example, if X represents OH; the polymer backbone will have -COOH groups.

  Indeed, if PX is introduced into the skeletal polymerization medium which must comprise at least one trifunctional reagent according to the scheme: PX + HO-R2-OH + HOOC-R2-COOH + H2N-R2-NH2 + HO-R2-OH During the reaction, undesirable side reactions may occur.

  It is therefore necessary to first make the polymer, then react with the macromonomer P-X.

  Polycondensation Conditions and Exemplary Embodiments General Procedure: To synthesize the polyester amides of structure (I) to (VII), it is preferred to use the reagents in proportions such that the molar ratio COOH / (NH 2 + OH) is between 0.8 and 1.0.

  Advantageously, the reaction can be carried out in 2 stages so as to limit the secondary reactions: 1) The acid, anhydride or acid chloride reagents and the alcohols, including the hydroxylated polyesters, are first brought to the condensation temperature adapted to the nature of the reactants in the presence: the reactions involving the acids will preferably be carried out at a temperature of between 200 and 250 ° C., in the presence of a catalyst, rather in the absence of solvents; the reactions with the acid chlorides being generally carried out at temperatures between 0 C and 60 C; 2) The amidification reaction is then carried out by charging the amine at a temperature of between 150 ° C. and 250 ° C. for the reactions involving acids and at temperatures of between 0 ° C. and 60 ° C. for the reactions involving chlorides. acids.

  The condensation is monitored by measuring the acid numbers or amine numbers in order to obtain the desired molecular weights. A vacuum draw at the end of the reaction can be envisaged to remove the low molecular weight compounds. Other additives The composition according to the invention invention, especially in the case where the organic liquid phase is a fatty phase, be in the form of a care composition, optionally tinted, keratin materials such as skin, lips and / or integuments, in the form of a sunscreen composition, or care, especially in the form of make-up remover, in the form of a stick, a dome, or in cast form. It can in particular be used as a basis for care for the skin, integuments or lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind, skin care cream, nails or hair).

  The composition of the invention when it comprises an organic liquid phase which is a fatty phase may in particular be in the form of a transparent gel, in particular transparent anhydrous stick.

  The composition of the invention may also in this case (first embodiment of the composition of the invention) be in the form of a make-up or skin care product, in particular a foundation, a blush, a blush, an eyelid, a concealer; a makeup or eye care product such as an eyeliner; a makeup or body care product; makeup or lip care such as lipstick, lip gloss or pencil; makeup or skincare keratin fibers such as eyelashes especially in the form of a mascara (bread), eyebrows and hair especially in the form of pencil.

  In particular, the composition of the invention may be a cosmetic product containing at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent such as essential oils, vitamins, moisturizers, filters, cicatrizing agents and ceramides.

  Of course, the composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely to contain a physiologically acceptable medium that is non-toxic and may be applied to the skin, the integuments or the lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch.

  The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature and is especially chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and gums, and mixtures thereof. These fats can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. waxes

  The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax or a mixture of waxes.

  The wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 200 C.

  By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained. in the oils of the mixture.

  In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about 30 ° C., preferably greater than 45 ° C. and in particular greater than 55 ° C.

  The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

  The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from 0 ° C. to 120 ° C., at the heating rate of 10 ° C./minute, and then is cooled by 120 C at 0 C at a cooling rate of 10 C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from 0 C to 120 C at a heating rate of 5 C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the product sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

  The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

  The wax may also have a hardness of from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

  The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 ° C. The melted wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours and then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

  In particular, it is possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax or lanolin wax; rice wax, Japanese wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

  Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

  Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference ISO-JOJOBA-50 , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di (1,1,1-trimethylpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name HEST 2T- 4S by the company HETERENE, di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

  Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxydimetone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluorinated waxes.

  It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with the stearyl alcohol sold under the name PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57 or even the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. under the name PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73, by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

  According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one so-called sticky wax that is to say having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 Ns and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

  The stickiness of the wax is determined by measuring the evolution of the force (compressive force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20 C with the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the RHEO company, equipped with a mobile cone-shaped acrylic polymer forming an angle of 45.

  The measurement protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is cast in a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before measuring the adhesive. The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s, then penetrates the wax to a depth of penetration of 2 mm. When the mobile penetrated the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.

  During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero and then, when the mobile is withdrawn, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again to the value O. The Sticky is the integral of the force vs time curve for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force). The value of the sticky is expressed in N.s. The hardness is measured according to the protocol described above.

  As sticky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), for example the waxes sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P and Kester Wax, may be used. K 80 P by KOSTER KEUNEN.

* It may also be mentioned microcrystalline wax sold under the reference SP18 by the company STRAHL and PITSCH which has a hardness of about 0.46 MPa and a stickiness value of about 1 N.s.

  The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than 45 ° C.

  The wax (es) may be present in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. By aqueous microdispersion of wax is meant an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.

  Microdispersions of wax are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are especially described in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.

  In particular, these microdispersions of wax can be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally a portion of the water, and then gradually adding hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil type emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion with the final obtaining of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal particles of wax is obtained.

  The microdispersion of wax can also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, high pressure homogenizer, turbines.

  The particles of the microdispersion of wax preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm (in particular ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm), preferably less than 0.5 μm (in particular ranging from 0.06 μm to 0 μm). , 5 pm).

  These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes.

  However, they may comprise, in a minor proportion, oily and / or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and / or a usual fat-soluble additive / active agent.

  The wax or wax (es) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 1 to 40% and even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight. weight.

  Pasty Fatty Body A pasty product is a viscous fatty substance containing a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The pasty compound within the meaning of the invention advantageously has a hardness at C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

  The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-speed of 1 mm / s and then at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

  The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

  By way of example of pasty products that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolines or oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms, such as triisostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; esters of cholesterol such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof. As vegetable triglycerides, hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as Rheox's "THIXINR", may be used.

  Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as stearyl dimethicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

  The pasty fatty substance (s) may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in the proportion of 0.5 to 45% by weight and even more preferably in a proportion of 2-30% by weight.

  Additional Film-forming Polymer The composition according to the invention in its first embodiment or in its second embodiment may further optionally comprise one or more additional additional film-forming polymers of the polyester amide.

  The additional film-forming polymer may be chosen from radical polymers, polycondensates and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

  As film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas and cellulosic polymers.

  The additional film-forming polymers may be soluble or dispersible in a liquid organic phase, which may be the liquid organic phase of the composition, they may also be chosen from film-forming polymers that are water-soluble or dispersible in an aqueous phase (also called latex).

  The additional film-forming polymer may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight.

  When the composition, in particular in the form of a nail polish, comprises an organic solvent medium, the additional film-forming polymer may be chosen in particular from alkyd, acrylic and / or vinyl resins, polyurethanes and polyesters, celluloses and cellulose derivatives, such as nitrocellulose, cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate, cellulose acetate propionate, cellulose acetate butyrate, resins resulting from the condensation of formaldehyde with an arylsulfonamide and mixtures thereof.

  In order to improve the film-forming properties of the composition, especially a nail varnish, in which the polyester amide polymer is used, at least one auxiliary film-forming agent may be further provided.

  Such an auxiliary film-forming agent may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art, as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers.

  In addition, when the base composition according to the invention comprises an additional film-forming polymer in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous medium, the auxiliary film-forming agent may also be chosen from coalescing agents. The plasticizing agents and / or the coalescing agents may be chosen from: glycols and their derivatives, such as diethylene glycol ethyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether or else diethylene glycol hexyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether ethylene glycol butyl ether, ethylene glycol hexyl ether; the glycol esters; propylene glycol derivatives and in particular propylene glycol phenyl ether, propylene glycol diacetate, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, tripropylene glycol butyl ether, propylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, tripropylene glycol methyl ether and diethylene glycol methyl ether, propylene glycol butyl ether; esters of acids, in particular carboxylic acids, such as citrates, phthalates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates, sebacates; oxyethylenated derivatives, such as oxyethylenated oils, especially vegetable oils, such as castor oil; - their mixtures.

  The amount of plasticizer may be chosen by those skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to obtain a composition having cosmetically acceptable properties. The plasticizer content may, for example, range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight.

  Dyestuffs The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres, and those known to those skilled in the art, and dyestuffs may be composition, in a weight ranging content, based on the weight of preferably 0.01% to 30% by weight by weight.

  By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

  By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.

  Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

  Mention may also be made of effect pigments such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, natural or synthetic, by flakes, but mixtures thereof. Herein, in the range of from 0.01% to 50% in the composition, and more preferably from 1 to 25%, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate being coated or not with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, oxide of chromium and their mixtures.

  The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, blue. ferric oxide or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It is also possible to use interferential pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments.

  Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, J3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, the yellow quinoline, the annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, culinary disodium salt, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.

  Charges The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% in weight. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

  The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-R-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls (Toshiba D, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, e.g. Examples are zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

  The composition according to the invention may also comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, additional gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives sunscreens, surfactants, anti-oxidants, fibers, anti-hair loss agents, eyelash care agents, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, or mixtures thereof.

  These ingredients may be present in the composition in the usual manner in a proportion of 0.01 to 30%, preferably of 0.05 to 20%, of the total weight of the composition and better still of 0.1 to 10%.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

  The composition of the invention, when it comprises a liquid fatty phase, may be in the form of a paste, a solid or a more or less viscous cream. It can be a single or multiple emulsion, especially oil-in-water or water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, or a rigid or flexible gel phase continuous oily. The single or multiple emulsion may comprise an aqueous or oily continuous phase optionally containing dispersed lipid vesicles. In particular, it is in cast form as a stick in a cup, or in a dome, and more particularly in the form of an oily rigid gel, in particular an anhydrous gel and in particular an anhydrous stick. More specifically, it is in the form of a translucent or opaque rigid gel (depending on whether it contains pigments or not), the liquid fatty phase forming the continuous phase.

  The structuring of the liquid fatty phase can be modulated according to the nature of the structuring polymer and can be such as to obtain a rigid structure in the form of a stick, a stick or a dome, of good mechanical strength and already having a shiny appearance. These sticks, especially when they are colored allow, after easy application, to obtain a deposit, especially colored, large mass, shiny, not migrating and good behavior, including color over time.

  Advantageously, the composition of the invention when the organic phase is a fatty phase is a composition for the lips and better a lipstick composition including stick.

  The composition according to the invention when the organic phase is a liquid organic solvent phase may be in particular a nail polish, a nail care product or a make-up remover for the nails (for nail polishes).

  The description that has just been given above relating to the various additives that may be incorporated into the composition of the invention has been made generally with reference to the first embodiment of the composition according to the invention where this It comprises at least one liquid fatty phase, however those skilled in the art will readily recognize which particular additives are most specifically used in the compositions according to the second embodiment of the invention which comprises at least one liquid organic solvent phase.

  The composition of the invention may be in the form of mascara bread, eyeliner, foundation, lipstick, blush, makeup remover, body makeup product, eye shadow or cheeks, anti-ring product.

  The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the makeup or care of keratinous substances of human beings, comprising the application to keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

  The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic care and / or makeup composition of keratin materials or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing an organic liquid phase, of at least one polyester amide polymer, linear or branched chain having in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts in the main chain: E at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups chosen from amide and / or sulfonamide groups.

  The invention further relates to the use of a sufficient amount of at least one linear or branched polyester amide polymer comprising in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts to the main chain: at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups; in a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing an organic liquid phase, for structuring, gelling, thickening and / or imparting film-forming properties to said composition.

  The invention also relates to the use of a sufficient quantity of at least one linear and / or branched polyester amide polymer comprising in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts to the main chain: at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups; to obtain a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing an organic liquid phase, capable of forming on the keratin materials a film of good resistance and / or gloss.

  DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples of formulation given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes. Quantities are given in mass%. The chemical compounds are given mainly in CTFA name ("International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary").

  EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a Polyester Amide of the Invention: 1) Synthesis of the Di-Hydroxylated Polyester: In a 500 ml Reactor Equipped with a Thermometer Plunging Into the Reaction Medium, an Agitator, a Scanning 275 g of 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediol, 276 g of previously melted dimethyl-sebacate and 1.6 g of zinc acetate are introduced into the argon and overlaid with a cooling assembly.

  The mixture is raised from ambient temperature to 200 ° C. in 3 hours, and the methanol formed is removed. After 3 h at 200 ° C., the reaction medium is allowed to cool to 35 ° C. and 300 ml of dichloromethane are added: the mixture is then taken up in dichloroethane and then washed with water. The organic phase is dried over magnesium sulfate and then evaporated.

  The acid number of the polyester obtained is between 190 and 195 mg KOH / g.

  2) Synthesis of the Di-Carboxylic Polyester: g of the polyester, diluted in 30 g of dichloromethane, are added dropwise to a mixture, refigerated at 0 ° C. with an ice-bath, of 34.4 g of terephthalic acid chloride and of 68.4 g of triethylamine dissolved in 200 ml of dichloromethane. After the total addition of the polyester, the medium is maintained for 1 h at 0 ° C. and then the temperature is allowed to rise to ambient temperature.

  3) Amidification: After 3 hours at room temperature, the preceding reaction medium is cooled to 0 ° C. and then 10.2 g of ethylene diamine dissolved in 20 g of dichloromethane are added dropwise. The medium is maintained for one hour at 0 ° C. and then left to rise to Tamb and kept at this temperature for 3 hours. The medium is then washed 3 times with water and the organic phase is dried over magnesium sulphate and evaporated under vacuum.

  EXAMPLE 2 Nail Polish A solution of the polymer of Example 1 at 50% solids in butyl acetate is prepared by heating the polymer + butyl acetate mixture at 80 ° C. for 4 hours.

  Nitrocellulose 9 - 14% Plasticizer: -n-ethyl-o, p-toluenesulfonamide (Resimpol 8 from PAN-AMERICANA) 4 - 6% Alkyd resin 5 - 10% Polymer solution of Example 1 to 50% by weight dry in butyl acetate 5 - 18% Pigment 0 - 2% Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50 gsp100

Claims (45)

  1. Cosmetic care and / or makeup composition, comprising, in a cosmetically medium acceptable:   an organic liquid phase; and at least one polyester amide polymer, linear or branched, comprising in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts to its main chain: at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyester amide polymer is linear and comprises in its main chain: E at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units and E at least two groups selected from groups amides and / or sulfonamides.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polymer is solid at room temperature (25 C) and at atmospheric pressure (105 Pa).   A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR1 ## wherein: Q-, which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from: a) saturated or unsaturated C 2 -C 50, (-R 3 -) divalent, hydrocarbon, linear, branched or cyclic groups, such as alkylene and arylene groups, which may contain one or more several heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si, and which may be substituted in part or in whole by fluorine atoms; b) divalent aliphatic polyester groups, (-POL-), which may contain in their main chain or in the form of groups or lateral grafts, one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S, and / or Si, and which may be substituted partly or wholly by fluorine atoms; 2) m is an integer from 2 to 3000, preferably from 2 to 2000; 3) the groups -A-, which may be identical or different, represent divalent groups chosen from the following groups: - ester Y corresponding to the formula: - (C = O) O- or -O- (C = O) -; amide Z corresponding to the formula: - (C = O) NH- or -NH- (C = O) -; sulfonamide: - (C = O) SO2- or -SO2- (C = O) -; with the proviso that the polymer (I) has at least two amide or sulfonamide groups; 4) -R1- and -R2-, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: a) divalent linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, such as alkylene and arylene, preferably alkylene, C 2 -C 50, saturated or unsaturated groups, may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, and / or Si, and may be substituted in whole or in part by fluorine atoms, b) divalent groups providing a side branch, such as the polymer unit polyester amide corresponds to the following formula: R5} -A RI R4 2 n P   in which - U is a C 3-20 hydrocarbon tetravalent radical which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si and linked to a monovalent radical R 4 such as H or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group; or U is a trivalent N-N atom carrying three divalent C2-Ca alkylene groups, and which may contain a heteroatom such as O; two divalent alkylene groups connecting the nitrogen atom to the main chain of the polymer, the third connecting the nitrogen atom to a side group or graft; -A-, -R1-, and -R2- have the same meaning as before; p and n are integers ranging from 1 to 1000; -R5 is a monovalent radical such as H or a C1-m alkyl group.   5. A composition according to claim 4, wherein the aliphatic polyester divalent groups (POL) of the Q groups result either from the polyaddition of at least one C3-20 lactone substituted or unsubstituted by a C1-6 alkyl group or from polycondensation of at least one linear, branched or cyclic C 4 -C 50 aliphatic diacid and at least one cyclic aliphatic diol.   C4-50r linear, or branched or 6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the divalent hydrocarbon groups, for example the C2-50 alkylene groups of the groups -R1- and -R2- are: either linear or branched C1-20 groups and which may comprise more than 1 to 5 amide and / or sulfonamide groups; - or branched C30-50r groups, which may comprise rings and unsaturated unconjugated and derived from polycondensation with: a dimer fatty acid, a dimer-diol or a dimer-diamine; or C5-C6 cycloalkane groups. 30   Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 4 to 6, in which the polyester polymer corresponding to formula (I) is capable of being obtained by reacting at least three reagents chosen from the groups of reagents. , b), c), d), e), f), g), h), i), and j) following, at least three of these reagents each belonging to a different reagent group: a) aliphatic diols , HO-R3-OH wherein R3 represents a group selected from divalent, hydrocarbon, linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 50 groups, such as saturated or unsaturated alkylene groups, which may contain in their chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si and may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms; b) the aliphatic polyol diols HO-POL-OH, which may contain in their main chain or in the form of side groups or grafts one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S and / or Si, said divalent aliphatic polyester groups resulting either from the polyaddition of at least one C4-20 lactone, substituted or unsubstituted by a C1-C6 alkyl group, or of the polycondensation of at least one linear or branched or cyclic C 9 -C 50 aliphatic diacid, and of at least one aliphatic diol, C4_50 linear, branched or cyclic; c) aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, HOOC-R2-COOH, where R2 represents a group chosen from divalent, hydrocarbon, linear, branched or cyclic C 2 -C 50 groups, such as alkylene or arylene, preferably alkylene, saturated or unsaturated groups; which may contain in their chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, and their acid chloride and acid anhydride derivatives; d) the primary aliphatic diamines H2N-R2-NH2, R2 represents a group chosen from divalent hydrocarbon groups, linear, branched, or cyclic C2-50, such as alkylene or arylene, preferably alkylene, saturated or unsaturated groups, which may contain in their chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms; e) C3-20 lactones substituted or unsubstituted by one or more C1-C6 alkyl groups which may comprise rings, unsaturations or heteroatoms such as N, O, S, and / or Si; f) lactams C3_20 substituted or not with one or more C1-C6 alkyl groups may include rings, unsaturations or heteroatoms such as N, 0, S, and / or Si; g) hydroxy acids HOOC-R2-OH, R2 being defined as -R2- dicarboxylic acids c); h) aminoalcohols H2N-R3-OH: R3 being defined as the R3 diols a); i) the amino acids H2N-R2-COOH: R2 being defined as the -R2- dicarboxylic acids c); j) the co-reactive trifunctional compounds of the above, namely the compounds of formula: in which: the identical or different Xs represent a group chosen from the -COOH groups and their COCl and anhydride derivatives, the -OH and -NH 2 groups; and R 4 represents H or a C 1-4 alkyl group and wherein - U represents a C 3-20 hydrocarbon tetravalent radical which may contain in its chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S and / or Si, - or U is a trivalent nitrogen atom bonded to x via alkylene groups -R6-, which may be identical or different, to C2, such alkylene groups may contain a heteroatom such as 0, provided that in the case where U is trivalent, so -R4 is absent.   8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polyesteramide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (II): ## STR2 ## in which: , m, and -POL- are as defined in claim 4; Y represents an ester group -O- (C = O) -, or - (C = O) -O- -Z- represents an amide group -NH- (C = O) -, or - (C = O) -NH-.   9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the polyester amide polymer of formula (II) is obtainable by reaction of a polyester prepolymer HO-POL-OH, where POL is as defined in claim 4, a HOOC-R2-COOH carboxylic acid diacid or an acid chloride or anhydride derivative thereof, wherein R2 is as defined in claim 4, and a diamine H2N-R2-NH2, wherein R2 is identical to or different from the group R2 of the diacid.   10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (III): ## STR2 ## in which: - -Z- represents an amide group of formula - (C = O) -NH or -NH- (C = O); and -POL- represents a divalent aliphatic polyester group of formula: n2 in which R2 and n are defined as in claim 4, and Y represents an ester group of formula -O- (C = O) or (C = 0) -O-.   11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (IIIa): [POL Z R2 Z POL W m (Formula (IIIbis)) wherein: - W represents a group -A-R2-A- such that Y-R2-Y-, a group -Y-R2-Y-R2-Y- or a group -Y-R2-Z-R2- Z-, -A- represents an ester group -Y- or an amide group -Z- as defined in claim 4; and POL, m, and R2 are as defined in claim 4.   12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (IV): ## STR2 ## Wherein Y, Z, R2, R3, and n have the meaning already given in claim 4.   13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (IVa): [Z R2t2Y R3 Y-R2 Z} nl2 V n! 2 (Formula (IVa)) wherein: V represents a group -Y-R2-Y- such as OCO-R2-COO-, or a group -OCO-R2-COO-R2-0-CO, optionally comprising, in addition, a diamine coupler, and Y, R2, Z, R3, n and m are as defined in claim 4.   Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, in which the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (V): ## STR2 ## in which: -R2- identical or different are as defined in claim 4, -Y-, -Z-, n and p are as defined in claim 4.   15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (VI): (_A R2) (((W) in which: - the group -A- represents an ester group Y or amide Z, with the proviso that if the -A- groups of - (R2-A) are ester groups (-Y-), then the groups -A- of - (R2- A) p- are amides (-Z-), and conversely, - Q represents a group -R3- or a group POL as defined in claim 4 and n and p are as defined in claim 4.   16. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the polyester amide polymer comprises at least one unit corresponding to the following formula (VII): R4 I Y RI Y R2 A R2 A U A / A R2 X '   wherein: 1) -Y- represents an ester group, ## STR1 ## or C 0 2) -R 1 represents -R 3 - (from a diol), or -POL-, R 3 and POL being as defined in claim 4; 3) the same or different groups -A- O   represent an ester or amide group, wherein R represents an integer from 2 to 1000, and m is as defined in claim 4; 5) R4 U   represents: - either a tetravalent hydrocarbon radical which may contain in its chain one or more heteroatoms such as O, N, S, and / or Si, or a trivalent nitrogen atom bonded to -A-with divalent alkylene groups -R6- same or different C2 to C8r these groups may contain one or more heteroatoms such as 0, N, S, and / or Si provided that if U is trivalent, then -R4 is absent; 6) X ', which may be identical or different, represent a group -A-R8 where R8r represents H or a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C30 alkyl group, or a linear or branched C1-30-alkylene-R9-divalent group, or a divalent single bond linking another graft of another polymer chain; and at least two grafts have at least one -Z- amide group to satisfy formula (VII).   17. Composition according to claim 16, wherein the groups U are chosen from the following groups of formulas C3-20r R4 R7 C R7 R7 N R7 R7 R7 in which the groups R7 identical or different represent linear divalent alkylene groups or branched C1_10, preferably C2_8.   18. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 17, wherein the organic liquid phase is a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one oil, and wherein in the polyester amide polymer at least one of the groups R2 derives either from a dimer fatty acid is of a dimeric diamine.   19. A composition according to any one of claims 8 to 17, wherein the liquid phase comprises at least one organic solvent, and wherein in the polyester amide polymer the R2 groups represent a group derived from a C4 diacid to Clo or a mixture of a dimeric diacid and a short diacid C4 to Clo such as adipic acid.   20. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 19, wherein the polyester amide polymer further comprises one or more other units, reasons due to the introduction into said polymer of compounds selected from: - the prepolymers different from the polyesters, such as polyethers and polysiloxanes such as polydialkylsiloxanes; diacids, diols and aromatic diamines; the trifunctional reactive molecules introducing branches or grafts such as diols, triamines and tricarboxylic acids, provided that the trifunctional reactive molecules are present in smaller amounts than the difunctional reactive molecules.   21. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the polymer has a weight average molecular weight of from 1000 to 500,000, preferably from 5,000 to 250,000.   22. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer is a block copolymer, block copolymer, or a graft copolymer.   23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polyester amide polymer represents from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 0.5 to 45%, more preferably from 1 to 40%, and better still from at 30% dry matter of the total weight of the composition.   24. Composition according to any one of   preceding claims, wherein the phase   The total organic liquid of the composition is 1 to 99%, preferably 5 to 75%, more preferably 10 to 60% of the total weight of the composition.   25. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 and 20 to 24, wherein said organic liquid phase is a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one hydrocarbon oil.   26. The composition of claim 25, wherein the hydrocarbon oil is a volatile hydrocarbon oil.   27. The composition of claim 25 or 26, wherein the hydrocarbon oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms.   28. Composition according to any one of claims 25 to 27, wherein the liquid fatty phase represents from 5 to 99% of the total weight of the composition and better still from 20 to 75% of the total weight of the composition.   29. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 and 20 to 25, characterized in that it is in the form of a make-up or skin care product, in particular a foundation, a blush, blush, eye shadow, anti-ring product; a makeup or eye care product such as an eyeliner; makeup or body care product; makeup or lip care such as lipstick, lip gloss or pencil; makeup or care of keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, especially in the form of a mascara, eyebrows and hair.   30. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17 and 19 to 24, wherein said organic liquid phase is a liquid organic solvent phase comprising at least one organic solvent 31. A composition according to claim 30 wherein the one or more organic solvents are chosen from: short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total), such as ethyl acetate, methyl, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate; Ketones which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as ethanol, isopropanol, diacetone alcohol, 2-butoxyethanol or cyclohexanol; glycols which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; aldehydes which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; carbonates such as propylene carbonate and dimethyl carbonate; acetals such as methylal; and - their mixtures.   32. Composition according to claim 30 or 31, characterized in that the organic solvent is volatile.   33. Composition according to one of claims 30 to 32, characterized in that the organic solvent is selected from esters having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.   34. Composition according to one of claims 29 to 32, wherein the organic solvent phase represents from 5% to 95% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10% to 85% of the total weight of the composition.   35. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, 19 to 24 and 30 to 34, characterized in that it is in the form of a nail polish, a care product for nails or a makeup remover for nails.   36. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes, and their mixtures.   37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature, in particular chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof.   38. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more additional additional film-forming agents of the polyester amide (s). 39. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one auxiliary film-forming agent.   40. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one plasticizing agent and / or a coalescing agent.   41. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, thickeners, additional gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, fibers, anti-hair loss agents, eyelash care agents, anti-dandruff agents, agents propellants, or mixtures thereof.   42. A cosmetic, makeup or skincare process for keratinous substances of human beings, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims.   43. Use in a cosmetic composition for the care and / or make-up of keratin materials or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing an organic liquid phase, of at least one linear or branched polyester amide polymer comprising in its chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts to the main chain: E at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups.   44. Use of a sufficient quantity of at least one polyester amide polymer, linear and / or branched, comprising in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts to the main chain: E at least one polyester group Aliphatic group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups; in a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing an organic liquid phase, for structuring, gelling, thickening and imparting film-forming properties to said composition.   45. Use of a sufficient quantity of at least one linear and / or branched polyester amide polymer having in its main chain and / or in the form of one or more lateral grafts to the main chain: E at least one aliphatic polyester group consisting of 2 to 1000 aliphatic ester units, and E at least two groups selected from amide and / or sulfonamide groups; to obtain a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, or for the manufacture of a physiologically acceptable composition, containing an organic liquid phase capable of forming on the keratin materials a film of good resistance and / or gloss.