FR2873000A1 - Make-up set for semi-permanent tattooing of e.g. skin, has composition, disposed inside container, presenting specific viscosity and, in physiologically-acceptable medium, self-tanning compound at specific concentration - Google Patents

Abstract

The set has a container and an application unit, where a composition is disposed inside the container. The composition presents a viscosity greater than or equal to 3 Pascal and comprises, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, a self-tanning compound at a concentration greater than or equal to 15 percentage by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. Independent claims are also included for the following: (A) a make-up kit (B) a patch (C) a stick (D) a process for semi-permanent make-up of a medium.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of long-lasting makeup

  in time and aims in particular to propose a makeup set for semi-permanent tattooing.

  Today, there are makeup techniques, including tattoo type, to obtain so-called permanent makeup, that is to say, the behavior in time is unlimited. However, this irreversibility can be a deterrent to potential users. Indeed, the removal of this type of makeup is usually a surgical operation or a laser intervention frequently leaving scar tissue.

  Moreover, this makeup technique has the disadvantage of not being totally devoid of any risk of toxicity and / or allergy, risk accentuated by its invasiveness.

  In addition, the application of this type of makeup can not usually be done directly by the person wanting to wear makeup. It requires the services of a specialist and requires several sessions of intervention often long, expensive, even painful.

  Finally, in terms of appearance, it should be noted that traditional permanent tattoos or traditional long-lasting are always intense color, very contrasted and do not lend themselves, mostly, to discrete patterns and nuanced. As for the colors, they can, in certain cases, evolve undesirably over time and this irreversibly.

  An alternative to this permanent tattoo makeup technique makes use of the ability of certain natural substances, such as for example henna or walnut that when applied to the surface of the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, provide an extended dyeing effect on a scale of several weeks. Unfortunately, this type of compound is also likely to cause allergic reactions and the color effect it provides can not be interrupted prematurely either. In addition, the slow and gradual erasure of the tattoo effect, which results in a gradual deterioration of the original color, is often unsightly.

  The present invention specifically aims to provide a make-up effect with long-term effect but advantageously free of the aforementioned drawbacks.

  More specifically, according to one of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a make-up set intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least: a container, application means, a composition disposed within said container comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a make-up assembly intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least: a container, application means, and a composition disposed within said container, having a viscosity greater than or equal to 3 mPa.s and comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one said self-tanning compound.

  According to yet another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a set of make-up intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least: - a container, - application means, - a composition disposed within said container comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound, and means delimiting at least one determined pattern, suitable for the application of said composition.

  In an alternative embodiment, the container may be compartmentalized. In this case, certain components of the makeup composition, such as the self-tanning compound, can be isolated in separate compartments so as to guarantee them better stability over time and better self-tanning or coloring reactivity at the time of application. . According to this option, the compartments can advantageously be placed in communication with each other just before use to allow the extemporaneous mixing of all the compounds of said makeup composition. Such a packaging makes it possible, for example, to keep the so-called self-tanning compound at a given pH, for example dihydroxyacetone at a pH of the order of 5, and then to bring it to a basic pH, that is to say greater than 7, when mixing with a base at the time of application.

  The container and the application means may be integral or independent of one another.

  In a variant, the container and the application means are part of a device of the sprayer type.

  According to a particular embodiment, the assembly according to the invention may further comprise means delimiting at least one determined pattern appropriate to the application of the composition. For example, these means may be in the form of part (s), such as cuts, patterns, or friezes, and in particular be of the stencil type.

  These means may, in another variant, be an integral part of the application means.

  It can thus be a set of makeup comprising at least one self-tanning compound packaged in a device suitable for the application of said compound in the form of prefixed patterns.

  According to this embodiment, this assembly can be in the form of a sprayer, especially of the spray type, provided with a stencil-type nozzle making it possible, for example, to obtain patterns of the grid-like type, peas, flowers, lettering characters. writing, lace.

  It is also conceivable after application of said self-tanning compound, for example in an area defined by the stencil, to apply on this area an occlusive sheet to protect or even accelerate the self-tanning reaction. Thus, a protective band may be applied, after spraying or spreading the composition comprising the so-called self-tanning compound at the level of the skin to be made up, so as to maintain a partial occlusion during the rise of the coloration and allow the user to cover the skin of his clothes or underwear without altering the patterns. This protective band may for example consist of a slightly absorbent paper, for example Kleenex type.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a makeup kit comprising a first and at least a second cosmetic composition, different from each other, the first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least a so-called self-tanning compound, and the second composition being able to modify, in particular to increase or decrease, the persistence of the coloration, the intensity of the color or the hue, at the level of the colored effect provided on the surface masked by the first composition.

  According to yet another of its aspects, the invention relates to a semi-permanent tattoo makeup patch for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and the integuments comprising at least one so-called self-tanning compound.

  The presentation in the form of a patch can make it possible to deposit compositions of homogeneous concentration of self-tanning compound (s) or heterogeneous concentrations according to predetermined patterns, such as, for example, gradients, or random patterns, such as mottling.

  According to yet another of its aspects, the invention relates to a semi-permanent tattoo makeup stick for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and the integuments comprising at least one so-called self-tanning compound.

  According to this variant, the stick or solid bread of the make-up composition is generally packaged in a dispensing container. This dispensing container may be provided with means for removing the stick from the container, for use, and retract it after use.

  According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a semi-permanent makeup process for a support chosen from the skin, in particular the scalp, the lips and the integuments, comprising the application, on the surface to be made up of of a composition packaged in a set, kit, patch, stick or makeup device according to the invention.

  According to yet another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is the use of at least one so-called self-tanning compound to make it possible to obtain a semipermanent tattoo makeup composition.

  Within the meaning of the invention, a set of makeup for semipermanent tattoo designates a set capable of providing a makeup with a significantly longer wearing time compared to conventional makeup compositions, but remaining nevertheless temporary as opposed to makeup compositions permanent that have a quasi-irreversible effect.

  The set, kit, stick and make-up patch according to the invention are advantageous for several reasons.

  They make it possible to obtain satisfactory makeup that is significantly prolonged in time, that is to say having a behavior in time of the order of a few days, or even at the scale of one or two weeks.

  The makeup effect they provide can be interrupted at any time by the user.

  They make it possible to precisely control the application of the make-up on the surface to be made up and thus to avoid any phenomenon of migration that could be detrimental from an aesthetic point of view, as well as the phenomena of overloading of material likely to become comedogenic.

  They are compatible with a self-application.

  The self-tanning compounds they contain have a satisfactory safety for users.

  They make it possible to draw precise patterns, including patterns of small sizes, for example thin lines of width ranging from 0.2 to 1 mm. Regarding the latter aspect, the use of stencils or patches also offers the user a wide range of tattoo patterns. These stencils or patches may be adhesive or not.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "self-tanning compound" is intended to mean any compound having a particular affinity for the skin and capable of imparting to the latter a durable, non-covering coloration, that is to say not having a tendency to opacify the skin, which is not removed with water or with a conventional solvent such as alcohol, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, ether, glycols, and which resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants or soaps, or with fat.

  Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided by a conventional makeup composition.

  Particularly suitable for the invention, self-tanning compounds such as mono- or poly-carbonyl compounds.

  As an illustration of these, there may be mentioned more particularly isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazoline derivatives 4,5-diones, for example as described in the patent application FR 2 466 492 and WO 97/35842, 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives, in particular as described in the patent application EP 903 342, and dihydroxyacetone (DRA) and its derivatives.

  According to a particular variant, the self-tanning compound is dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or a derivative thereof.

  In general, the concentration of self-tanning compound is adjusted to provide the expected color makeup effect. It is understood that this concentration is likely to vary significantly depending on the nature of the self-tanning compound considered and the clarity of the skin, mucosa or superficial body growths. For skin, color or complexion can be expressed by the Fitzpatrick classification.

  For example, the self-tanning compound may be present in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  However, it is also possible to envisage concentrated formulations of said self-tanning compound, for example capable of being diluted before use. Thus, compositions, such as powders, comprising at least 95% by weight, especially at least 98% by weight, or even at least 99% by weight of self-tanning compound (s) relative to the total weight of the composition , are also likely to be suitable for the invention.

  Generally, the self-tanning compound is used at a content of less than or equal to 60% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 50% by weight, or even less than or equal to 40% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 30% by weight, and most preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions of the kit, set, stick and makeup patch according to the invention also have a viscosity adjusted to allow easy deposition, rapid drying and obtaining a makeup having good holding properties, especially in terms of non-migration or fixation on an area of skin or non-horizontal dander and likely to undergo movement during the drying period.

  For this purpose, the compositions advantageously have a viscosity greater than or equal to 5 mPa.s, in particular greater than or equal to 10 mPa.s, in particular greater than or equal to 15 mPa.s, or even greater than or equal to 20 mPa.s. In the context of the present invention, the viscosity can be measured at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure using a Rheomat RM 180 type viscometer equipped with a rotating rotor such that the measurement is carried out at the 200 s velocity gradient. -l. Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile device for measuring viscosity among MS-3 and MS4 mobiles on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the viscosity of the tested composition.

  This viscosity is generally adjusted by the presence of one or more gelling agents in the makeup composition according to the invention.

  This gelling agent, which is generally water-soluble, may especially be chosen from: proteins such as proteins of vegetable origin, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers, cellulose polymers, vinyl polymers, - polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, and - mixtures thereof.

  It may also be synthetic homo- or co-polymers, especially derived from acrylic and methacrylic acids.

  The gelling agent may also be hydrophobic, such as, for example, polyoxyethylenes, crosslinked silicones and grafted amines. Hydrophobic gelling agents may very well be found, where appropriate, in a hydrophobic fraction of the composition.

  The gelling agent content is generally adjusted to provide the compositions of makeup sets according to the invention the qualities required in terms of application. It can of course vary significantly depending on the chemical nature of the gelling agent.

  For example, the gelling agent may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, especially at a content ranging from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and in particular at a content ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In addition to such a gelling agent, the compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more dyestuffs and / or additional compounds.

  It is understood that the choice of all these compounds namely gelling agent, dyestuff or additional compound must be made by ensuring their compatibility with the so-called self-tanning compound. Indeed, these compounds must be presented so as not to disturb the ability of said self-tanning compound to provide the expected makeup effect.

  According to a particular embodiment, the makeup assembly according to the invention may further comprise a compound capable of modulating the self-tanning reaction and thus of conditioning a particular aesthetic effect.

  Thus, it is known that a self-tanning compound such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) may be affected by the simultaneous presence of certain nitrogen compounds and / or ionized metals. In this particular case, the compositions according to the invention using as a self-tanning compound dihydroxyacetone or derivative, will advantageously be free of amounts of nitrogen compounds, especially amino acids, and / or ionized metals, their derivatives and / or or their salts, likely to lead to degradation of DHA, especially during the preservation of the product. On the other hand, compounds capable of interfering with DHA so as to modify the Maillard reaction leading to the self-tanning effect and in particular to accentuate it, can be associated. This complementary or synergistic effect of the staining with DHA can be expressed in terms of modulation, preferentially of accentuation of the intensity of the color or of the modulation of the kinetics of the coloring reaction, preferably the acceleration of the rise. the color and the slowing of its elimination, that is, the prolongation of the persistence of the coloring.

  Among the compounds capable of interfering with the so-called self-tanning compounds, and especially DHA, mention may be made of amino acids, such as glycine, in particular basic amino acids, such as lysine or histidine, oligopeptides, peptides, glycopeptides, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lauroyl lysine, their derivatives, and their associations with metals.

  As regards the presence of at least one dyestuff, it may be advantageous for several reasons.

  First, it can provide an additional color effect and thus give the possibility of access to a wider range of shades in semipermanent makeup.

  Moreover, it can provide an application indicator function for said composition. Indeed, in the particular case where the self-tanning compound considered is not itself colored, it may be advantageous for the user to be able to visually control the deposition of the makeup composition by virtue of the presence of this dyestuff.

  It can thus make it possible to create a relay system by conferring a first immediate color effect, which, progressively (generally 2 to 8 hours), will be replaced by a second persistent color effect, due to the self-tanner. These two colored effects may be of identical hue or not. For example, such a coloring material may impart to the skin or integuments a different color during the first hours of what it will become during the rise of the self-tanner, thus giving the makeup pattern a living, evolving, metamorphosed appearance. over time.

  This dyestuff may in particular be chosen from organic or mineral pigments, nacres and dyes, water-soluble or fat-soluble, natural or artificial, usually used in cosmetics.

  By pigments, it is necessary to include white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition, the skin, the mucous membranes or integuments. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell from fish scales, iridescent natural minerals (mica, metal particles) or synthesized, such as composite particles. These fillers and nacres serve in particular to modify the color of the composition.

  The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

  As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate subject to their compatibility with the self-tanning compound under consideration.

  Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lacquers of carmine of cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP). described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

  It may also be mentioned that glass wafers coated with metal films or powders, especially titanium compounds, silica coated with dyes, organic spheres (polyethylene or nylon) coated with optionally fluorescent dyes or optical brighteners, may also be used in the scope of the present invention.

  The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

  The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  The composition may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes in a content ranging from 0.01 to 6% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The natural or synthetic liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, (3-carotene, carotenoids, lycopene, palm oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, orange DC 5, yellow quinoline, annatto The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, the dyes may be chosen from the anthocyanins of flowers or fruits or their derivatives , flavonoids and tannins extracted from native or fermented plants, juglone, lawsone, caramel, fermented soy extracts, algae, fungi, micro-organisms.

  In addition to such a coloring material that may be described as conventional, the makeup compositions according to the invention may contain one or more additional compounds which do not in themselves satisfy the dyestuff qualification but which nevertheless are capable of providing a complementary effect. at the level of the make-up effect obtained using the self-tanning compound. In the event that these compounds could affect the stability of the DHA, they are then kept in a separate compartment and mixed extemporaneously.

  Such an effect may for example consist in the creation of: - a hue effect at the level of the homogeneous color due to the self-tanning compound. By way of illustration of compounds of this type, mention may in particular be made of the amino acids, in particular basic amino acids, the peptides, and ionized metals already mentioned above for their reactivity, in particular with respect to DHA, or of an effect of gloss with the aid of compounds of hydrocarbon type, silicone gels, varnishes, waxes and / or flakes, or of a dullness effect, for example using a compound such as, for example, starch, talc, silica, laponites, clays or their derivatives, or - an optical effect of soft focus type, for example so as to camouflage defects such as wrinkles, spots, scars, pimples, blackheads, couperose, stretch marks, Orange peel. Such an effect can in particular be obtained with exemplary microspheres of nylon (Orgasol) or of silica, and / or of an effect of change of the texture or of the surface state, of the relief, of the grain or of the touch of the skin (tensors, smooth, granular or fibrous films, waxes / adhesive pastes, flocking).

  It is also conceivable to associate with a self-tanning compound, one or more perfuming substances, as such or packaged in an activatable form, for example of the microcapsule type, intended to release only at the time of their rupture, the perfuming substance.

  We can also consider adding substances producing sensations of hot or cold, such as nicotinates, capsaicin, menthol or cooling agents.

  The so-called self-tanning compound may also be combined with at least one active care, protection and / or prevention, such as for example, agents capable of conferring protection against UV, antioxidants, water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins, antiseptics, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory, cicatrizing, depigmenting, vasculoprotective, anti-rosacea, anti-wrinkle, anti-stretch marks, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, firming, moisturizing, nourishing, sebo-regulating, stimulants capillaries, antifungals.

  The compositions according to the invention may especially be suitable for masking permanent or transient imperfections, such as pimples, acne, scars, telangiectasia, rosacea, varicose veins, spots, wrinkles, stretch marks, rosacea, hematomas, vitiligo, pregnancy masks, lupus erythematosus, Pityriasis versicolor, ruby spots, naevi, lentigo angiomas, freckles, eczematiform or psoriatic plaques. They may also be suitable for treating these imperfections.

  The compositions according to the invention may further contain a vector-type agent promoting the penetration, targeting and / or fixation of the self-tanning compound to certain cell or tissue structures. For example, it may be a self-heating compound, or vasodilator, such as nicotinates, spirulina extract, a modifying compound, in particular increasing or stimulating skin gas exchange, or a compound acting on the skin. product such as a buffer medium or an agent stimulating the proteolysis reactions, chemical or enzymatic, such as for example calcium, the stimulators of hydrolysis of filagrin, MMP1 (methyl metalloproteinases), sulfonic compounds, for example hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, terephthalene dicamphor sulfonic acid, acids and α and β hydroxy acids, such as for example salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid.

  For example, for DHA, it may more particularly be a compound capable of directing the molecule towards amino peptide or protein targets capable of strongly combining with a Maillard reaction.

  The compositions according to the invention generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

  By physiologically acceptable medium is meant a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, lips and / or integuments of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged.

  The nature of this physiologically acceptable medium is likely to vary according to the chemical nature of the self-tanner considered. Thus, it may be of an aqueous, oily, emulsified or non-emulsified nature, of the gel, solid, compact or powdery type.

  The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of a powder, to be diluted extemporaneously in a liquid vehicle at the time of application. This liquid vehicle may for example be an exogenous liquid such as water or a secretory fluid such as saliva or sweat secretions.

  In this embodiment, it may be advantageous to favor the choice of a solvent or mixture of solvents capable of evaporating rapidly, so as to allow rapid fixation of the makeup and to limit even more effectively any phenomenon of migration to the application of said composition.

  In general, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase. This may consist essentially of water or comprise a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 C) such as monoalcohols lowerers having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, glycerine, their polymers, condensation products and derivatives. This aqueous phase may also comprise one or more sugars.

  This aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging for example from 5 to 99% by weight, and especially from 75 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). It may in particular comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or non-volatile oil or a mixture thereof.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.01 mmHg to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa). at 40,000 Pa) and in particular ranging from 0.001 mm Hg (1.3 Pa) to 100 mm Hg (13000 Pa), and more particularly ranging from 0.01 to 10 mm Hg (1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa).

  The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6 -pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permethyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by Shell, can also be used.

  As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

  The composition according to the invention can. also comprise at least one film-forming polymer. Among these, it is more particularly possible to mention the water-soluble and water-dispersible film-forming polymers.

  The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more surfactants present, in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 2 to 20% by weight, or even from 5 to 15% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. This surfactant may be chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants, as well as cationic surfactants. Reference can be made to the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, Vol. 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

  The self-tanning compounds may be packaged according to the invention in the form of a makeup set, and in particular a make-up kit, a makeup stick or a make-up patch.

  In the particular case of a set of makeup, the self-tanning compound is formulated in a makeup composition as defined above and is associated with application means. These application means are chosen so that they are suitable for the deposition of the makeup composition on the surface to be made up, and adapted to the container containing it and to the type of makeup desired.

  In general, all the means of application conventionally used in cosmetics are likely to be suitable insofar as they lend themselves to the application of a composition having a viscosity in accordance with the invention.

  The application means may comprise an applicator element, which may be porous, for example fibrous, hairy, tubular, or in the form of a stick (as for applying traditional kohl).

  The application element may be chosen in particular from cotton end caps, foam tips, felt tips, flocked tips, tips made of ceramic or sintered material and pads. The application element may also be a brush, a comb or a brush, a sponge or a mousse, a fountain pen or a tubular point, a tampon, a hollow stem, in particular for application on the eyelashes, the eyebrows , hair or nails. The application element may, if necessary, have abrasive properties.

  As regards the composition, it can be formulated in any form of container, generally selected to be compatible with the preparation and with the type of application means selected. It may especially be a container capable of constituting a reservoir for said composition, for example a tube.

  It may also be a swab type of packaging, or cotton hollow shaft rod, as described in the application FR 02 12155 and in particular two-component swab. In this particular case, some of the components of the makeup composition are packaged in separate compartments, for example arranged in the form of a tube, so as to guarantee them a prolonged stability. For example, the swab may contain the self-tanner in the form of a powder dispersed in the cotton or foam head and its eluent (optionally comprising a color modulator), in the hollow stem, or, conversely, the self-tanner in the stem. and his eluent in the cotton or foam head. The compartments of such a packaging are placed in communication with each other only at the time of use of the makeup composition to allow extemporaneous mixing of its ingredients before application. Such an assembly is generally suitable for single use.

  As stated above, the makeup set may also be in the form of a spraying device.

  In the particular case of the makeup kit, the composition according to the invention said first composition can be associated with one or more other compositions called second (s) composition (s).

  Of course, this kit may also be provided with one or more application means, dedicated or not, to the application of each of the compositions.

  Such a kit is particularly advantageous for associating a composition according to the invention, that is to say containing a self-tanning compound, with at least one second composition containing at least one active ingredient capable of acting at the level of the effect of makeup provided by the self-tanning compound applied to the makeup surface. As previously stated, this complementary effect can be very diverse in nature. It can result in amplification, inhibition, neutralization, modulation or reduction of the colored effect provided by the self-tanning compound or by a relay effect with an immediate color effect or by a kinetic modulation of appearance or attenuation of the color on the skin or mucous membrane.

  According to a first variant, this second composition can confer, to the colored appearance provided by the first composition, a complementary color effect. Such an effect can for example be obtained via at least one additional compound as defined above and / or at least one dyestuff.

  According to another variant, this second composition may comprise at least one active material, in particular capable of neutralizing the colored effect provided by the self-tanning compound. According to this variant, it acts as a cleansing composition.

  It is clear that in this second option, the choice of this active ingredient neutralizing effect is directly related to the chemical nature of the self-tanning compound retained.

  In the particular case where the self-tanning compound present in the first composition is DHA, it may be advantageous to associate a second composition comprising at least one active ingredient with a neutralizing effect.

  According to another aspect of the invention, the self-tanning compound may be packaged in the form of a patch.

  "Patch" is understood to mean a structure in the form of a sheet or sheet having one or more layers, comprising a matrix in which at least one self-tanning compound is incorporated, suitable, when the matrix is brought into contact with the skin, to have a action on the skin. At the end of a certain exposure time, the patch is removed. All or part of the compounds contained in the matrix has been transferred to the skin to the mucous membranes or integuments, in particular by evaporation or transfer.

  More specifically, the matrix may comprise at least one gelling polymer chosen from: - celluloses, and in particular modified celluloses, for example hydroxyethylcellulose modified with a cetyl chain, such as Natrosol sold by the company HERCULES, - homopolymers of crosslinked ethyl methacrylate trimethylammonium chloride, especially in inverse emulsion in a mineral oil, such as for example that sold by the company CIBA under the trade name Salcare SC 95, homopolymers of polyacrylamidotauramide, in particular in the form of their sodium salt (AMPS), in particular in inverse emulsion, such as for example Simulgel 800 sold by the company SEPPIC and their mixtures.

  The application time may vary to a large extent, and may range from a few seconds to several hours or a night. The matrix may be deposited on a support capable of promoting the manipulation thereof and / or possibly producing an occlusive or semi-occlusive barrier. This support can be fixed by an adhesive or a holding device to stay in place and allow the drawing of a pattern.

  The patch can protect the skin, the pattern and the product during their contact. It can also control the level of hydration during the self-tanning staining reaction (see article by B. Nguyen and I. Kochevar, British Journal of Dermatology, 2003, 149, 332-340), or change the temperature especially if it is associated with self-heating agents, or compounds producing an exothermic reaction, or vasodilators.

  It may be an electrical or photoelectric patch for applying to the skin a potential difference capable of displacing amino acids, peptides or proteins according to an electrophoretic or iontophoretic effect.

  It can still be a patch equipped with a solar collector that can in particular allow to increase the temperature.

  It may also be a patch to be applied over a stencil, more or less impervious depending on the desired effect, itself maintained against the skin or the mucosa.

  According to one particular embodiment, the patch may be of the coated paper type, in particular as described in the French patent application FR 03 09301.

  This patch can be dry, hydrated or wet with a self-tanner thinner at the time of application. When in the dry state, the diluent can either be supplied with the patch or provided directly by the user. It may for example be water, or a biological secretion of the user, such as saliva and sweat secretions.

  The patches according to the invention may also advantageously be in the form of stencils, buffers, which have the advantage of being preconditioned in terms of shapes to create original patterns on the surface to make up.

  According to this embodiment, it may be a double-sheet patch, between which is contained a separable liquid capsule, which is broken only at the time of application. The released liquid then impregnates the face of the patch located against the skin or mucosa. The self-tanning agent may be present either in the capsule or on the face of the patch located against the skin or the mucosa.

  The stencils may be in strips, friezes, for example in the form of a roll whose length is desired and that the user can position the areas to make up by selecting the length to be applied to obtain the custom decorative effect.

  The set, kit, stick and make-up patch according to the invention can be used to make up the eyebrows, the eyelids, the contours of eyes, the lips, and in particular their contours. They also make it possible to obtain semipermanent tattoos, for example on the body or on the face.

  The invention also relates to a makeup process comprising applying to the surface to be made up of a composition or self-tanning agent packaged in a set, kit, stick, spray or makeup patch according to the invention.

  The makeup process can also make it possible to obtain a pattern tattooed semi-permanently on the body or the face, the scalp, the integuments, the mucous membranes.

  The makeup process may furthermore comprise a preliminary exfoliation step, in particular a biological, chemical or mechanical step, aimed in particular at preparing the surface to be made up, in particular with a view to promoting the subsequent adhesion of the make-up composition.

  The makeup process may also include a heating step, endogenous or exogenous.

  It may comprise a subsequent step of conventional (non-permanent) make-up, especially without transfer, or shading, especially with nacres or glitter.

  The following examples are given by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention.

  Example 1 Spray-type device compositions a) Concentration (wt.%) Preservative 0.70 Dihydroxyacetone powder 15.00 Brilliant blue FCF di-sodium salt (CI: 42090) 0.006 Disulfide salt bright yellow FCF (CI: 15985) 0.09 Glycerol 5,00 Homopolymer chloride of ethyl trimethylammonium methacrylate crosslinked in inverse emulsion in mineral oil marketed by the 4.00 company CIBA under the name Salcare SC 95 Di-sodium salt of Fuchsin acid D (CI: 17200) 0.015 Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol 5.00 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100.00 At room temperature, in a container comprising DHA, water and glycerin are added, the mixture is then stirred with a Bioblock type stirrer at room temperature. 300 rpm for 10 minutes.

  The dyes are then added and the mixture is stirred until complete solubilization (about 10 minutes).

  The alcohol is then incorporated, homogenized, then the preservative and polymer mixture is added, stirring is continued at 1800 rpm and then stopped, and finally the mixture is homogenized using a spatula.

  The measurement of the torque necessary to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity is to be determined is carried out with the aid of a submerged element rotating at a chosen and constant speed of 200 revolutions per minute.

  The equipment used is marketed by METTLER under the name Rheomat RM180. The measurement is carried out with an analyte-bucket-measuring body assembly maintained at the set temperature of 25 ° C., and is carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the measuring body.

  The composition has a measured viscosity of 7.5 Pa.s.

  Concentration (% by weight) Preservative 0.70 Dihydroxyacetone powder 15.00 Absolute denatured ethyl alcohol 5.00 Homopolymer ethyl trimethyl ammonium methacrylate chloride 4.00 crosslinked in inverse emulsion in mineral oil marketed by CIBA under the name Salcare SC 95 5.00 Glycerol Deionized water microbiologically clean qs 100.00 The same protocol as described above is used. This composition has a viscosity of 7.9 Pa.s.

  These two compositions can be packaged in spray-type devices.

  Example 2: Composition intended to be applied to a nonwoven support to prepare a patch% by weight DHA 20.00 Sodium polyacrylate 10.00 Polyacrylic acid 10.00 Tartaric acid 4.00 Tween 80 3.00 Methyl paraben 0.5 Propyl paraben 0.5 Water qs 100.00 This composition is directly deposited on a nonwoven support made of cellulose fibers, and packaged in an aluminum sealed bag in unitary form.

Claims (40)

1. Makeup set for semi-permanent tattooing comprising   less: a container, means of application, and a composition, disposed within said container, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning compound at a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   2. Makeup set for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least: - a container, - application means, and - a composition, disposed within said container, having a viscosity greater than or equal to 3 mPa.s and comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning compound.   5. Makeup set for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least: a container, means of application, a composition disposed within said container comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning compound, and - means defining at least one specific pattern, suitable for the application of said composition.   6. Makeup set according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it further comprises means delimiting at least one determined pattern suitable for the application of said composition.   7. Set of makeup according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that it is piece (s) stencil type.   8. makeup assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the container and the application means are part of a spray-type device. r 23   7. Makeup set according to claim 6, characterized in that said device is provided with a nozzle type stencil.   8. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said composition comprises said self-tanning compound in a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   9. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said composition comprises said self-tanning compound in a content greater than or equal to 95% by weight, especially greater than or equal to 98% by weight, and particular greater than or equal to 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that said self-tanning compound is a mono or polycarbonyl compound.   11. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said self-tanning compound is selected from isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin4,5-diones derivatives, 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.   12. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that said self-tanning compound is dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or a derivative of DHA.   13. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it further comprises at least one compound modulating the self-tanning reaction.   14. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that said composition has a viscosity greater than or equal to 5 mPa.s, especially greater than or equal to 10 mPa.s, in particular greater than or equal to 15 mPa.s, even greater than or equal to 20 mPa.s.   15. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one gelling agent.   16. Makeup set according to claim 15, characterized in that the gelling agent is chosen from: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers cellulose polymers, vinyl polymers, and optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, and mixtures thereof.   17. Makeup set according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the gelling agent is present in said composition at a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, especially from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.05 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   18. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one film-forming polymer.   19. makeup assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that said composition comprises at least one dyestuff.   20. Makeup set according to claim 19, characterized in that the coloring material is chosen from organic or mineral dyes, water-soluble or fat-soluble, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.   21. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 20, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one additional compound capable of imparting a complementary effect at the level of the makeup effect provided by the self-tanning compound.   22. makeup assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one active care, protection and / or prevention.   23. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 5 and 8 to 22, characterized in that said application means is selected from a brush, a comb or a brush, a sponge or a mousse, a fountain pen or a tubular point, a hollow stem or a tampon.   24. Makeup set according to any one of claims 1 to 5 and 8 to 23, characterized in that it is in the form of a hollow tiger cotton rod type packaging.   25. Makeup kit for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and the integuments, comprising a first and at least one second cosmetic compositions different from one another, the first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning agent, and the second composition being capable of modifying, in particular increasing or decreasing, the persistence of the coloration, the intensity of the color or the hue at the level of the colored effect provided on the surface masked by the first composition.   26. Kit according to claim 25, characterized in that the first composition is as defined in claims 1 to 22.   27. makeup kit according to claim 25 or 26, characterized in that the second composition comprises at least one active ingredient with neutralizing effect and / or at least one dyestuff and / or at least one additional compound capable of conferring a complementary effect at the level of the makeup effect provided by the self-tanning compound.   28. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 25 to 27, characterized in that the first composition contains at least dihydroxyacetone and the second composition at least one active ingredient with neutralizing effect.   29. makeup kit according to any one of claims 25 to 28, characterized in that it comprises at least application means, in particular as defined in claim 23.   30. Self-tanning compound characterized in that it is packaged in the form of a patch for obtaining a make-up type semipermanent tattoo.   31. self-tanning compound according to claim 30, characterized in that it is as defined in any one of claims 10 to 12.   32. Self-tanning compound characterized in that it is packaged in the form of a stick for obtaining a type of semi-permanent tattoo makeup.   33. A compound according to claim 32, characterized in that it is as defined   according to any one of claims 10 to 12.   34. Use of at least one self-tanning compound to obtain a semi-permanent tattoo makeup composition.   35. Use according to claim 34, characterized in that the self-tanning compound is as defined according to one of claims 10 to 12.   36. A semi-permanent makeup process for a support chosen from skin, lips and superficial body growths comprising applying to the surface to be made up of a composition containing at least one self-tanning compound packaged in a makeup set as defined. according to any one of claims 1 to 24 or in a makeup kit as defined in any one of claims 25 to 29 or a self-tanning compound as defined in claims 30 to 33.   37. Makeup method according to claim 36, characterized in that it further comprises a preliminary exfoliation step.   38. Makeup method according to claim 36 or 37, characterized in that it further comprises a secondary step of makeup or shading.   39. Makeup method according to any one of claims 36 to 38, characterized in that it further comprises a heating step, endogenous or exogenous.   40. Makeup method according to any one of claims 36 to 39, characterized in that it further comprises an electrophoresis step or iontophoresis.