FR2863893A1 - Non-irritating topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical bactericidal and/or fungicidal compositions, e.g. for acne or dermatitis treatment, containing human beta-defensin type 2 and/or 3 expression stimulants - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of agents (I) which directly or indirectly stimulate the expression of human beta -defensins of type 2 (hBD2) and/or type 3 (hBD3) without causing inflammatory, irritation or intolerance reactions is claimed in the production of (a) bactericidal and/or fungicidal cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions or (b) bactericial compositions for the tissue reconstruction sector, for use in formation of reconstructed epidermis and skin and in maintaining the survival of cutaneous biopsies. ACTIVITY : Antibacterial; Fungicide; Dermatological; Antiseborrheic. MECHANISM OF ACTION : hBD2 and/or hBD3 expression stimulant. In tests in normal human keratinocyte cultures, addition of peony flower at 1 wt. % stimulated expression of hBD3 by 192% (relative to 100% for the positive control tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha )) without inducing any expression of MIP3alpha .

Description

The present invention relates mainly to active ingredients

  capable of stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of type 2 human beta-depressins and / or type 3 human beta-defensins.

  The present invention relates primarily to cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions containing such active ingredients.

  The present invention relates primarily to a method of care using such compositions.

  The present invention relates primarily to a screening method for selecting such active ingredients.

STATE OF THE ART

  Antibiotic peptides are small molecules (10 to 50 amino acids) capable of destroying microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi or viruses by permeabilizing their cell membrane. Since their discovery in 1981 in arthropods, nearly 500 molecules with these properties have been identified in higher organisms (plants, insects, mammals, humans). The common feature of antimicrobial peptides is their amphipathic structure, ie the distribution of amino acids in cationic (positively charged) zones distinct from hydrophobic zones. It is this structure that confers their activity and specificity of action on the bacterial cytoplasmic membranes, because they have many anionic phospholipids, negatively charged, attracting the fixation of cationic sectors of antibiotic peptides (Zasloff M. Antimicrobial peptides of multicellular organisms, Nature 2002, 415: 389-395). Depending on their structure, the action spectra of these peptides can be very narrow or very broad.

  Antimicrobial peptides are widely found in the animal world: in venoms (scorpions, bees, spiders), drosophila or bluefly, bovine neutrophils, leukocytes and small intestines. pork, milk, frogs, Mediterranean mussels, etc. In the plant world, thionines and defensins provide antibacterial protection of seeds and vegetative tissues of plants.

  The majority of antibacterial peptides are found in animal epithelial tissues, where they play a major role as the first immune barrier. They have been found in the skin of frogs or mice, but also in the gastrointestinal and respiratory system in humans as well as in their skin and mucous membranes.

  Defensins are one of the most studied class of antimicrobial peptides. They designate molecules rich in cysteines and having three disulfide bridges. They are present in plants, insects, and various mammals. In humans, there are two classes of defensins that differ from one another in the spacing and the connections between the six cysteine residues: a-defensins (6 representatives), isolated in neutrophils (HNP1 to 4). , Human Neutrophil Peptide) and in the Paneth cells of the gastrointestinal tract (defensins 5 and 6), the more basic and longer defensins, expressed in mucous membranes and epithelial cells (skin, trachea, tongue). , tonsils, saliva ...), exist in 3 forms: A constitutive form, hBD1 (Human fi-defensin 1), found mainly in the kidneys, also rises in the pancreas, saliva, lungs, placenta and skin .

  Two inducible forms: hBD2 and hBD3 (Human 8-defensin 2 and 3): hBD2 is expressed in the skin, trachea, lungs; its expression is induced by bacterial stimulation, by TNFα (Tumour Necrosis Factor a) (Harder J. et al., peptide antibiotic from human skin, Nature 1997, 387: 861), by LPS (Lipopolysaccharides) (Mathews E et al., Production of betadefensin antimicrobial peptides by the oral mucosa and salivary acorns.Infect Immun 1999; 67: 2740-2745), by ILia and IL1p (Interleukin 1) (Liu AY et al., Human p-defensin-2 production The invention is directed to the use of interleukin-1, bacteria and the state of differentiation, J Invest Dermatol 2002, 118: 275-281), all of which have the property of being involved in inflammatory processes. The antibacterial activity of hBD2 is directed in particular to Gram-negative bacteria such as Escherishia coll.

   hBD3 is found in the skin, trachea, tonsils and tongue (Harder J. et al., Isolation and characterization of human 13-defensin-3, a novel human inducible peptide antibiotic, JB / o / Chem 2001; : 5707-5713), but also in muscle tissue and heart (Conejo Garcia et al., Identification of a novel, multifunctional p-defensin (humas p-defensin-3) with specific antimicrobial activity. 306: 257-264). hBD3 is induced by bacterial stimulation, TNFa, and especially IFNy (Interferon gamma), which also have as a common denominator, being molecules involved in inflammatory processes. The spectrum of action of hBD3 is broader than that of hBD2 because it is able to lyse Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, such as Staphylococcus aureus.

  The induction of these defensins into the skin is the first line of defense our body establishes to protect itself from the growing number of pathogenic microorganisms it faces. In addition, hBD2 has chemotactic properties for immature dendritic cells and memory T cells (Yang D. et al., Betadefensins: linking innate and adaptive immunity through dendritic and T cell CCR6 Science 1999; 286: 525-528) and play an important role in promoting the immune response, inflammation and healing.

  Increasing the amount of 5-defensins on human skin therefore contributes to preserving the microbial skin ecosystem, avoiding too strong invasions of certain species that can be pathogenic (Staphy / ococcus aureus), which allows to preserve a protected and healthier skin. To do this, two strategies can be envisaged: - Either the topical application of synthetic peptides having sequences or structures similar to those of antibiotic peptides known and described by those skilled in the art.

  - Induced induction of defensins by the topical or oral application of an active agent capable of stimulating the synthesis of these peptides within naturally secretory cells.

  With the exception of the cytokines previously mentioned (TNFa, IFNy, IL1), few products have been described for their ability to induce p-defensins, except in animals, where L-Isoleucine induces the expression of hBD3 in renal bovine epithelial cell lines (Fehlbaum P. et al., An essential amino acid epithelial epithelial defeats PNAS 2000; 97: 12723-12728; Patent W00168085 Anderson M. et al., Method for stimulation of defensin production, 20-09-2001). In humans, differentiation of keratinocytes has been shown to stimulate production of hBD2 (Liu AY et al., Human (3-defensin-2 production in keratinocytes is regulated by interleukin-1, bacteria and the state of clifferentiation J Invest Dermato / 2002; 118: 275-281).

  Studies on the presence of defensins hBD2 and hBD3 in the skin were performed on skin sections, explants, cells in culture or reconstructed skin. The increase in the amount of defensins can be visualized by different techniques, but none of these techniques has been applied to screening research by an active ingredient capable of quantitatively stimulating hBD2 and hBD3 in human cells. Indeed, the techniques conventionally used by those skilled in the art are not applicable to the problem raised namely the search for active ingredients capable of stimulating human defensins quantitatively proven (absence of commercial antibodies which induces the inability to perform quantitative assays of proteins by ELISA methods, in situ hybridization, Northern blot, RT-PCR molecular biology methods, which are more qualitative than quantitative, very complex three-dimensional human cell models and not usable in screening methods).

  Such an assay will be implemented within the scope of the present invention.

  OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION The aim of the inventors was to find active principles capable of inducing the expression of type-2 and / or type-3 defensins without inducing inflammatory reactions, and, for example, without stimulating excessive secretion of molecules usually expressed in the case of inflammatory reactions.

  Indeed, until now, all the molecules described for their capacity to stimulate defensins in humans (TNFα, IL1, LPS, bacteria, IFNγ, etc.) have pro-inflammatory properties; they stimulate inflammation cytokines such as ILia, IL8 or MIP3a.

  Thus, the object of the invention is to solve the new technical problem of providing an active ingredient capable of stimulating the direct or indirect expression of human beta-defensins, type 2 and / or human beta-defensins of the type 3, without causing inflammatory (s) reactions, irritation (s) or intolerance (s).

  The object of the invention is to solve the new technical problem of providing an active ingredient capable of stimulating the direct or indirect expression of human beta-defensins type 2 and / or human beta-defensins type 3 without stimulating or substantially without stimulating the direct or indirect synthesis of proinflammatory molecules or molecules usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes.

  The invention aims to solve the new technical problem of providing a composition comprising at least one active ingredient as defined above.

  The present invention aims to solve the new technical problem of providing a tissue or cell model for screening the active principles as defined above.

  The present invention aims to solve the new technical problem of providing a method of screening for active principles defined above.

  The present invention aims to solve the new technical problem of providing a composition containing the active principles defined above, for use in the field of cosmetics or pharmacy.

  This use is essentially carried out in order to exert a bactericidal and / or fungicidal activity, preferably by topical application to the tissues, for example the skin, the mucous membranes, the superficial body growths or the scalp.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

  The inventors mean by "active", the potential active principles to be screened; by "defensins", 1-defensins type 2 and / or type 3 2863893 7 when this term is used with reference to defensins stimulated by the active principles of the present invention.

  The present invention relates, in a first aspect, to an active ingredient capable of stimulating the direct or indirect expression of human beta-type 2 adenodensin and / or type-3 human beta-defensins which do not cause inflammatory reactions ( s), irritation (s), or intolerance (s).

  The inventors mean that by not causing inflammatory (s) reactions, irritation (s), or intolerance (s), the fact that the use of these active principles does not produce a side effect (s) (s) annoying (s) for a user of this active ingredient. The inventors mean by annoying (s) the reactions of the type of redness, tingling, irritation, increased sensitivity of the skin, etc. Advantageously, said active ingredient capable of stimulating the direct or indirect expression of human beta-defensins type 2 (hBD2) and / or human beta-defensins type 3 (hBD3) does not stimulate or substantially reduce the synthesis, directly or indirect, proinflammatory molecule (s) or molecules (s) usually coexpressed (s) during inflammatory process (s).

  The inventors intend not to stimulate or not substantially stimulate the synthesis, direct or indirect, of proinflammatory molecules or of molecules usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes, the fact that said active principle does not stimulate or stimulate the pro-inflammatory molecules or usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes, so as to induce a stimulation lower than that induced by TNF alpha (TNFa) or interferon gamma (IFNy), preferably a stimulation less than; 75% of the maximum stimulation induced by the use of TNF alpha or interferon gamma, all conditions of temperature, contact time, and otherwise identical operating conditions.

  Advantageously said pro-inflammatory molecule or usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes is in particular MIP 3 alpha, or IL8 or IL1, or another interleukin, or histamine, or tryptase, or substance P, or leukotrienes , or prostaglandins.

  Advantageously, said active ingredient does not appreciably stimulate the direct or indirect production of proinflammatory (s) molecule (s) or usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes in human epithelial cell cultures. in particular keratinocytes and / or corneocytes in culture, or in human skin biopsies maintained in survival, or in reconstructed epidermal models, or in reconstructed skin models, whether or not constructed on cell matrices or on dermes désépidermisés. Said epithelial cells are preferably normal.

  The inventors mean by normal non-immortalized epithelial cells, which may be cells derived from pathological tissues or genetically modified cells.

  Advantageously, said active ingredient is selected from sagebrush root, Canada fleabane, elder bark, hernia, pineapple juice, peppermint, Arequier, cocoa, quinoa arnica, boldo, sarsaparilla, walnut leaf, hibiscus flower, pumpkin, sunflower, peony, St. John's wort, horse chestnut or one of their extracts; jasmonic acid or vitamin A, their derivatives and their precursors; alpha-MSH or one of the peptides constituting alpha-MSH or a chemical structure mimicking one of these peptides; esters of isoleucine; calcium or all organic or mineral salts of calcium.

  Advantageously, the active principles derived from plants are obtained by preferably aqueous extraction but also by other extraction methods such as in a water / butylene glycol mixture for example (from 1/99 to 99/1 in proportion w / w). Jasmonic acid or vitamin A, their derivatives and their precursors, alpha-MSH or one of the peptides constituting alpha-MSH or a chemical structure mimicking one of these peptides, the esters of isoleucine, and calcium or all organic or inorganic calcium salts are used as such, diluted in water or ethanol or other solvents compatible with the model described.

  The invention relates, according to a second aspect, to a composition comprising at least one active ingredient as defined above.

  Advantageously, said composition comprises said active ingredient at a concentration of between 0.001% and 20%, preferably between 0.01% and 10%. These concentrations are expressed as percentage by weight, especially when this percentage is not clearly mentioned as being a percentage by weight.

  This concentration is optimized so that the active ingredient is capable of stimulating the expression of type 2 and / or type 3 human beta-defensins, and not inducing irritation or inflammation, particularly not stimulate or substantially stimulate, direct or indirect synthesis, at least one pro-inflammatory molecule or usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes.

  According to a third aspect, the invention relates to the use of at least one active principle as defined above for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition, said active ingredient being present in a concentration capable of stimulating the expression of beta-defensins. type 2 and / or type 3, and not to induce irritation or inflammation, especially not to stimulate or substantially not stimulate the synthesis, direct or indirect, of at least one proinflammatory molecule or usually co -Expressed during inflammatory processes, said active ingredient being optionally mixed with a cosmetically acceptable excipient.

  According to a fourth aspect, the invention relates to the use of at least one active ingredient as defined above for the manufacture of a pharmaceutical composition, said active ingredient being present in a concentration capable of stimulating the expression of human beta-defensins. of type 2 or / and type 3, and not to induce irritation or inflammation, in particular not to stimulate or substantially not stimulate the synthesis, direct or indirect, of at least one proinflammatory or usually co- expressed during inflammatory process (s), said active ingredient being optionally mixed with a pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

  Advantageously, said composition comprises at least one microbiocidal and / or microbiostatic agent. The inventors mean by microbiocidal agent, the group of agents having a destructive action against bacteria and by microbiostatic agent, the group of agents having an action of limiting bacterial proliferation.

  According to a fifth aspect, the invention relates to a cellular or tissue model for screening at least one active principle capable of stimulating the expression of human beta-defensins type 2 and / or 3 and not inducing irritation or inflammation, especially not to stimulate or substantially not stimulate the direct or indirect synthesis of at least one pro-inflammatory molecule or usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes.

  Advantageously, said cellular or tissue model comprises epithelial cells, for example keratinocytes and / or corneocytes, capable of being cultured under appropriate culture conditions, in particular with a calcium content of between 0 and 100 mM, preferably 1.7mm.

  The invention relates, according to a sixth aspect, to a method for screening active principles that can stimulate the expression, direct or indirect, of human beta-defensins type 2 and / or 3, and not to induce irritation or of inflammation, in particular not or substantially not stimulating the direct or indirect synthesis of at least one pro-inflammatory molecule or of a molecule usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes (these active principles are described in the present invention as potential active ingredients to be screened), comprising the following steps: a) culture of a cellular or tissue model, in the presence of various potential active ingredients to be screened, under appropriate culture conditions; the method can be performed on at least one potential active ingredient to be screened, but it is more advantageous to test a large number of these active (or active) ingredients at the same time., b) Highlighting, direct or indirect, the presence or absence of stimulation of the expression of human beta-defensins type 2 and / or 3; c) Demonstration of non-irritating and non-inflammatory properties of these active principles, in particular by the absence of stimulation, directly or indirectly, of proinflammatory molecules or molecules usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises an additional step d) in which the selection is made of at least one active principle thus tested capable of stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of human betadéfensines type 2 and / or 3, and simultaneously not or not substantially stimulating the synthesis, direct or indirect, of pro-inflammatory molecules or molecules usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes.

  Readers will understand of course that the inventors do not limit their invention to particular methods of analysis, which are only one way to implement the screening principle of the present invention.

  Indeed, in the future, other methods of analysis could replace those used by the inventors in the present invention, such as methods using antibodies capable of recognizing hBD2 and 3 (EL.ISA type methods). , immunoblotting, immunohistology, etc ...).

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises in step a) a cellular or tissue model, comprising epithelial cells or skin biopsies maintained in survival, or reconstructed epidermal models or reconstructed skin models, comprising epithelial cells, by example of keratinocytes and / or corneocytes, capable of being cultured under appropriate culture conditions with in particular a calcium content of between 0 and 100 mM, preferably 1.7 mM.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises, in step a), the presence of the various potential active ingredients to be screened with the cell or tissue model, for a time of between 6 and 48 hours, preferably about 16 hours (time of put in contact).

  The inventors mean by "potential active ingredient to be screened", all products that are tested by the screening method, that is to say, all products that can be put into the form necessary to perform this screening method.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises, in step b), an extraction of the total RNAs and an RT-PCR analysis of the expression of the mRNAs encoding the human beta-defensins type 2 and / or type 3 above.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises, in step b), a RTPCR on actin (insensitive reporter gene) so as to report the increases of the mRNAs encoding hBD2 and hBD3 with respect to the mRNA coding for actin.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises in step b) deposition of the agarose gel-amplified mRNA containing a nucleic acid intercalator which can be seen under UV (for example ethidium bromide). Advantageously, said screening method comprises step b), following the migration of the agarose gel products, a comparison of the intensity ratios of the hBD2 / actin and hBD3 / actin bands under UV light.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises in step c) an ELISA-type assay for assaying pro-inflammatory molecules or molecules usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises, in step d), the selection of at least one active principle that is capable of stimulating the expression of the mRNAs coding for said human beta-defensins type 2 and / or type 3 without or substantially without stimulating the synthesis, direct or indirect, of pro-inflammatory molecules or molecules usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises the selection of the active principles stimulating the expression of the above-mentioned human beta-defensins and not stimulating or substantially not concomitantly at least one pro-inflammatory molecule or at least one molecule usually coexpressed during the process. inflammatory, such as IL1, IL8, MIP3a.

  Advantageously, said screening method comprises the following steps: contacting the potential active ingredients to be screened with normal human keratinocytes, in a monolayer, in a defined serum-free medium and enriched in calcium, for example by simultaneously producing an untreated control and two positive controls (TNFa for hBD2 and IFNy for hBD3); Extraction and then assaying the total RNAs on a spectrophotometer, preferably at wavelengths of 260 and 280 nm; these RNAs are optionally diluted; - RT-PCR on actin, hBD2 and hBD3 is performed on the initial tRNA total; The retro-transcription of the tRNAtal then the amplification of the retrotranscribed product (cDNA), which is carried out for example in a thermocycler and follows an amplification program, which is possibly common for actin, hBD2 and hBD3; The mixture of amplification products of hBD2, hBD3 and actin, then the addition of a buffer mixture of filler and water (2/3), the final solution being deposited on premolded agarose gel containing ethidium bromide. The samples migrate and the bands obtained by this technique are visualized under UV, preferably in darkroom and digitally photographed. The bands are analyzed in this step to quantify their intensity. Since the basal level of expression of defensins (untreated control) is not detectable, the intensity ratios of the hBD2 / actin and hBD3 / actin bands can be compared, for example, with those obtained for the positive serum (treated with TNFα). for hBD2 and IFNy for hBD3), which makes it possible to highlight a possible stimulation of the expression of the f3-defensin considered; Advantageously, this screening method comprises an additional step: the selection of the potential active ingredients to be screened having an effect on the expression of the 3-defensins of type 2 and / or type 3, the supernatants corresponding to these active agents are tested to measure the levels of molecules usually coexpressed during proinflammatory processes such as MIP3a, IL1 and IL8 secreted in the culture medium under the effect of the active ingredients, for example the levels are then related to the concentration of RNA assayed , in order to compare the results between them.

  Advantageously, said screening method makes it possible to demonstrate that an active ingredient capable of stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of human 5-defensins of type 2 and / or type 3, may simultaneously not or substantially not stimulate the synthesis, direct or indirect, of pro-inflammatory molecules or molecules usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes, when it is chosen from sagebrush root, Canada fleabane, elder bark, hernia, pineapple juice, peppermint, Arequier, cocoa tree, quinoa, arnica, boldo, sarsaparilla, walnut leaf, hibiscus flower, pumpkin, sunflower, peony, St. John's wort, horse chestnut or one of their extracts; jasmonic acid or vitamin A, their derivatives and their precursors; alpha-MSH or one of the peptides constituting alpha-MSH or a chemical structure mimicking one of these peptides; esters of isoleucine; calcium or all organic or mineral salts of calcium. The invention relates, according to a seventh aspect, to the use of an active principle for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to exert a bactericidal and / or fungicidal activity on the treated tissues, in particular on the skin, on the mucous membranes, on the dander or the scalp. In the case of the scalp, said cosmetic composition can be used to prevent or treat dandruff conditions.

  According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the active principles which are the subject of the invention may be combined with other cosmetically active substances to reinforce the protection of skins weakened during aging processes and / or subjected to stress due to the environment and / or the climatic conditions (cold, UV, etc.) and / or cleaning processes that do not respect the skin's ecosystem. The compositions resulting from the invention may be in any of the galenical forms used in cosmetics and may in particular be in the form of an optionally gelled aqueous solution, an optionally biphasic lotion type dispersion, an emulsion of the type water / oil or oil / water or triple emulsion or vesicular dispersion. This composition may be in a dry appearance or be more or less fluid or have the appearance of a white or colored cream, a serum, a foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol or stick. It can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin and / or as a cleansing agent for the skin, the mucous membranes, the dander and the scalp. In a known manner, the composition resulting from the invention may also contain all the adjuvants that can be used in cosmetics, such as gelling agents, active agents, preservatives, oils, solvents, antioxidants, perfumes, fillers, pigments, filters, odor absorbers and dyestuffs.

  Advantageously, said composition comprising at least one microbiocidal and / or microbiostatic agent, is especially useful in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical field, so as to combine the bactericidal action of cutaneous beta-defensins with the action of these agents, in particular for the control of cutaneous flora.

  The invention relates, according to an eighth aspect, to the use of an active principle for the manufacture of a pharmaceutical composition intended to exert a bactericidal and / or fungicidal activity on the treated tissues, in particular for the treatment and / or prevention acne, bacterial or fungal dermatoses.

  Advantageously, the invention relates to the use of an active ingredient stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of human beta-defensins type 2 (hBD2) and / or human beta-defensins type 3 (hBD3) and n causing no inflammatory (s), irritation (s) or intolerance (s) reactions to make a composition in the field of reconstructed tissues, so as to utilize the bactericidal action of cutaneous beta-dendres in the construction of epidermis and reconstructed skin and in maintaining survival of skin biopsies.

  Advantageously, said composition, comprising at least one microbiocidal and / or microbiostatic agent, is especially useful in the pharmaceutical field, so as to combine the bactericidal action of cutaneous beta-dendresines with the action of these agents, in particular for the treatment of pathologies related to a microbial component such as dandruff, acne, vitiligo, dermatitis and other pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes, scalp and integuments, including nails with microbial components.

  The inventors have used methods of analysis demonstrating the direct or indirect synthesis of proinflammatory molecule (s) or molecule (s) usually expressed during inflammatory process (s). , so as to be able to highlight the inflammatory reaction (s), irritation (s), or intolerance (s).

  The invention can be implemented in a different manner to highlight the inflammatory reaction (s), irritation (s), or intolerance (s), for example by evaluating the sensations of stinging, of genes. , tugging felt by the individuals during the application to the tissue to be treated.

  According to yet another advantageous feature of the invention applicable to any of these aspects, an active ingredient is selected which is capable of stimulating the direct or indirect expression of human beta-defensin (s) of the type 2 and / or type 3 and not stimulating simultaneously or substantially not the synthesis, direct or indirect, pro-inflammatory molecules or molecules usually co-expressed during an inflammatory process, for example a pro-inflammatory cytokine or at least one cytokine usually co-expressed during inflammatory process (s), such as II_1, IL8, MIP3a.

  DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

  The method of the present invention developed by the inventors makes it possible to select by screening and then to identify active principles capable of increasing the amount of hBD2 and / or hBD3 defensin mRNA in epidermal cells, characterized in that said active principles do not cause or substantially no inflammatory reactions, irritation (s) or intolerance (s).

  The screening method comprises, in particular, the following steps: Normal human epithelial cells, preferably normal human keratinocytes, are cultured in a monolayer in a defined serum-free medium, the concentration of calcium being preferably between 0 and 100 mM, preferably , 7 mM. At a certain degree of confluence of the cell cultures, preferably between 75 and 95%, preferably 80%, the cells are brought into contact with the potential active ingredients to be screened for a period of between 6 and 48 hours, preferably during 16 h. It can be carried out in parallel, the production of at least one untreated control and at least one positive control, preferably on the same culture plate, which facilitates the carrying out of the screening. The positive controls are TNFa for hBD2 and IFNy for hBD3 and replace the potential active ingredient to be screened; advantageously their concentrations are between 1 and 500 ng / ml, preferably 100 ng / ml. After this contact, the supernatants are collected and the cells can be frozen dry, for example at -80 ° C. after rinsing with PBS (Phosphate Buffer Saline). The total RNA is extracted and assayed spectrophotometrically, preferably at 260 and 280 nm, and then the concentration of these total RNA is preferably diluted to a concentration of between 2 and 50 ng / ml, preferably 5 ng / ml. Qualitative RT-PCR is performed on actin, hBD2 and hBD3. The primers are from the literature (for hBD2: Harder J. et al., A peptide antibiotic from human skin, Nature 1997, 387: 861, for hBD3 and actin: Harder 3. et al., Isolation and characterization of human f3 -defensin-3, a novel human inducible peptide antibiotic J Bic) / Cham 2001; 276: 5707-5713) and are: sense-actin: 5'-GTGGGGCGCCCCAGGCACCA-3 '(SEQ ID NO: 1) antisense: 5'-CTCCTfAATGTCACGCACGATTTC-3' (SEQ ID NO: 2) hBD2 sense: 5'CCAGCCATCAGCCATGAGGGT-3 '( SEQ ID N 3) antisense: 5'-GGAGCCCTITCTGAATCCGC: A3 '(SEQ ID NO: 4) hBD3 sense: 5'-AGCCTAGCAGCTATGAGGATC-3' (SEQ ID NO: 5) antisense: 5'-CTTCGGCAGCATTTTCGGCCA-3 '(SEQ ID N 6 The sequences of the primers used for the RT-PCR may be different from those cited provided that they remain specific to the genes studied (actin, hBD2 and hBD3).

  The RT-PCR is preferably performed on an initial amount of mRNA of 10 to 100 ng, preferably 50 ng, in a thermocycler, possibly according to a common program. This step makes it possible to amplify the initial RNA.

  The temperature and time parameters of the RT-PCR may vary depending on the primers or the material used (thermocycler, RT-PCR kit supplier, etc.).

  After amplification, the products are mixed and a buffer of load and water (2/3) is added. The final solution is deposited on a precolded agarose gel containing a nucleic acid interlayer visualizable under UV (such as ethidium bromide for example), which can be 2%. The samples migrate and the bands are visualized under UV in darkroom and photographed numerically. The photos of the gels are analyzed by an image processing software that quantifies the intensity of the bands. Since the basal level of expression of defensins (untreated control) is not detectable, the intensity ratios of the hBD2 / actin and hBD3 / actin bands can be compared to those of the positive control (treated with TNFa for hBD2 and IFNy for hBD3) and indicate possible stimulation of 13-defensin expression.

  At the end of this first step, the assets having an effect on the expression of f3-defensins are selected.

  The supernatants corresponding to these active ingredients are then tested by ELISA Kit so as to assay their content of MIP3a, IL1 and IL8 secreted in the culture medium under the effect of the active agents. The measured concentrations are related to the RNA concentrations in order to be able to compare the results with each other. The potential active ingredients to be screened inducing an excessive stimulation of MIP3a, IL1 or IL8 (significantly greater than 75% of the maximal stimulation induced by TNFα or IFNγ) are eliminated from the screening (which can also be called screening) .

  The gels are analyzed by an image processing software that quantifies the intensity of the bands. The visualization of the bands can obviously be carried out on any nucleic acid electrophoresis system, the nature of the intercalant and the quantity of the deposited RTPCR products varying, but remaining below the saturation of the luminosity.

  The validation of the results obtained can be carried out by the screening method of the present invention applied to a dose-response study in quantitative RT-PCR, which is described below, but which is not limited to this precise method, since other methods may appear to those skilled in the art as being able to substitute for it.

  This real-time RT-PCR technique is the currently preferred method for providing quantifiable results of mRNA expression differences.

  A study of the cytotoxicity of the active ingredients retained on increasing doses of 0.001% to 10%, preferably 0.01% to 10%, is carried out. Viability must be set, it is preferably greater than 65%, and even more preferably 75%. This viability sets the non-cytotoxic concentration limit.

  The potential active ingredients to be screened are then tested on several concentrations, preferably ranging from 0.001% to the non-cytotoxic limit concentration, on normal epithelial cells, preferably normal human keratinocytes, in a monolayer, in a defined medium without serum such that is described previously.

  The supernatants are then collected and the cells are optionally dry-frozen at -80 ° C. after rinsing with PBS. The total RNAs are extracted and diluted in the same concentration range as previously mentioned. These diluted RNAs will be used for quantitative RT-PCR on actin, hBD2 and hBD3.

  This technique is preferably carried out on the same amounts as previously of initial RNA, preferably using a one-step kit containing SYBR Green, however the RT-PCR system may be based on a technique other than SYBR Green, such as for example Scorpion, Molecular beacons, TagmanTM probes, etc., advantageously in a fluorescence thermocycler with the same primers as above, where an amplification program is carried out, which may be identical to the previous one.

  Conducting a study of the melting curves makes it possible to check the specificity of the amplified products. The fluorescence curve as a function of the number of cycles gives the value C (T) corresponding to the number of cycles necessary to have a detachment of the fluorescence signal.

  The more mRNA is expressed, the lower the C (T) will be. A calculation of Sgene = (1/2) c (T) for each RNA makes it possible to take into account the exponential increase in the number of copies during the amplification. The ratios of hBD2 / actin Sgene, and hBD3 / actin Sgene sgene can be optionally compared to the untreated control and thus give the percentage of stimulation obtained.

  Untreated controls may be identical to those of the first step of the screening method of the present invention.

  The supernatants of the potential active ingredients to be screened having confirmed their ability to induce defensins are optionally tested by ELISA Kit to determine the levels of PMIP3a, IL8 and IL1a.

  Preferably, these assays are performed on the supernatant. The rates are related to the measured RNA concentration of each sample. It can thus be confirmed the non-inflammatory nature of the selected active ingredients and / or find the optimum dose of defensin stimulation without inducing the secretion of the molecules of inflammation.

  The present invention also relates to the active ingredients tested by this screening method, since the main purpose of the inventors was to find active principles capable of inducing the expression of [3-type and / or 3-type dentifrenes without stimulating said secretion of molecules.

  In view of screening (or screening), a culture of normal human epithelial cells, preferably normal keratinocytes, is preferred when performed on 96-well plates. The expression of defensins hBD2 and hBD3 is very weak in undifferentiated basal keratinocytes and varies greatly depending on the donor and the location of the cells. hBD2 is found in 100% of skin and foreskin skin samples, and in only 50% of abdominal or mammary skin (Ali RS et al., Expression of the peptide antibiotics hBD1 and hBD2 in normal human skin. J Invest Dermatol 2001; 117: 106-111).

  The present invention provides a reproducible model for testing a wide range of potential active ingredients to be screened for and detecting the expression of hBD2 and hBD3 mRNAs.

  The present invention relates to a keratinocyte culture system in a defined calcium medium. The differentiation induced by these culture conditions makes it possible to increase the basal level of expression of the mRNAs of the hBD2 and hBD3 defensins and thus to facilitate the detection of their stimulation.

  The 96-well cell culture is a model for screening the desired effect, and the qualitative and quantitative analyzes have been adapted to the 96-well format.

  Qualitative RT-PCR allows the selection of a wide range of assets and their verification by quantitative RT-PCR is an essential step for the validation of the results. The positive stimulation controls (TNFα for hBD2 and IFNy for hBD3) give an induction value of defensins and inflammation molecules, serve as a reference and validate the quantitative RT-PCR technique.

  The determination in the supernatants of the secreted levels of inflammation marker molecules makes it possible to select non-inflammatory active agents. This screening method has demonstrated the above activity of the following active ingredients: mugwort root, Canada fleabane, elder bark, hernia, fruit juice. pineapple, peppermint, Arequier, cocoa, quinoa, arnica, boldo, sarsaparilla, walnut leaf, hibiscus flower, pumpkin, sunflower, peony, St. John's Wort, horse chestnut or one of their extracts; jasmonic acid or vitamin A, their clerics and their precursors; alpha-MSH or one of the peptides constituting alpha-MSH or a chemical structure mimicking one of these peptides; esters of isoleucine; calcium or all organic or mineral salts of calcium.

  In the examples, any feature that would appear new in relation to any state of the art is an integral part of the present invention and protection is sought in its function and generality.

  On the other hand, in the description and the claims, all percentages are by weight, the temperature is in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1

  manages the screening method step: The active agents are tested at 1% on normal human keratinocytes, in monolayer on 96-well culture plates, in defined medium without serum and enriched in calcium (final concentration 1.7 mM).

  At 80% confluency, the cells are brought into contact with the active ingredients (1 active per well) for 16 hours. In parallel, an untreated control and 2 positive controls (TNFa 100ng / mi for hBD2, and IFNy 100ng / ml for hBD3) are made on the same culture plate.

  After 16h, the supernatants are collected and the cells are dry frozen at -80 ° C. after rinsing with PBS.

  The total RNAs are extracted using a 96-well extraction kit on silica columns and assayed on a 96-well spectrophotometer at 260 and 280 nm. The RNAs are diluted to 5 ng / l.

  The qualitative RT-PCR in 1 step is carried out on 50 ng of initial RNA in 96 wells, on actin, hBD2 and hBD3. The primers are used at 0.51uM and come from the literature: hBD2sens: 5'-CCAGCCATCAGCCATGAGGGT-3 '; hBD2antisens: 5'-GGAGCCCTfTCTGAATC CGCA-3 '(Harder J. et al., A peptide antibiotic from human skin, Nature 1997; 387: 861); hBD3sens: 5'-AGCCTAGCAGCTATGAGGATC-3 ', hE3D3 antisense: 5'-CTTCGGCAGCATT TTCGGCCA-3'; actin sense: 5'-GTGGGGCGCCCC: AGGCACCA-3 ', antisense actin: 5'CTCCTTAATGTCACGCACGATTTC-3' (Harder J. et al., Isolation and characterization of hBD3, a novel human inducible peptide antibiotic J. Biol Chem 2001 276: 5707-5713).

  The samples are placed in a thermocycler and follow a common amplification program: 50 C, 30 min; 94 C, 2 min; (94 C, s, 60 C, 30 s, 68 C, 30 s) 32 cycles for defensins and 30 cycles for actin; 72 C, 10 min; 14 C, infinite.

  After amplification, the products are mixed with 311I of actin amplification products + 6 μl of amplification products of hBD2 + 6 l of hBD3 amplification products. 5 μl of a mixture of loading buffer and water (2/3) are added and the final 20 are deposited on a precolded 2% agarose gel. The samples migrate in 30 min and the bands are visualized under UV in darkroom and photographed numerically.

  The photos of the gels are analyzed by an image processing software that quantifies the intensity of the bands. Since the basal level of expression of defensins (untreated control) is not detectable, the intensity ratios of the hBD2 / actin and hBD3 / actin bands can be compared, for example, with those obtained for the positive control (treated with TNFα). for hBD2 and IFNy for hBD3), and indicate a possible stimulation of the expression of the β-defensin considered.

  At the end of this first step, the active agents having an effect on the expression of the 13-defensins are selected and the supernatants corresponding to these active agents are tested by ELISA Kit to determine the levels of MIP3a, IL1 and IL8 secreted in the culture medium under the effect of the assets. The levels are then related to the RNA concentration assayed in each well, in order to compare the results between them.

  First Step Results Tables: Since the basal level of defensin expression is generally undetectable, the hBD2 and hBD3 stimulations are expressed as a percentage of the positive controls (TNFa for hBD2 and IFNy for hBD3). The levels of IL8 and MIP3a are expressed in μg / ml / RNA concentration (in ng / l).

  Effects of active agents on the expression of hBD2 (Table I) Assets (used at 1%, w / w) HBD2 MIP3a IL8 Control 0% 6.7 30.9 TNFa 100% 33 186 Spirulina 137% 28.8 87 Flour Quinoa seed 85% - - Mace root 76% 7.2 30.2 Elderberry 65% 7.5 17.9 Sunflower 58% 10.9 68.6 Canada fleabane 50% 6.1 29.4 Pineapple juice 50% 7.6 39 Hernia plant 44% 7.8 55 Cocoa tree 39% 4.9 22.5 Pumpkin 35% 5.2 33.1 Peppermint 26% 1 4.8 Sarsaparilla root 26% 4 , 7 15.4 Arequier 1% 0 25.7 Arnica flower head 0% 3, 9 27.8 Peony flower 0% 0 2 St. John's wort 0% .2.81 19.7 Horse chestnut 0% 0.6 36, 7 Boldo 0% 1,8 20,1 Walnut leaf 0% 1,4 19,4 Hibiscus flower 0% 6,5 29,3 Basil leaf 0% - - Chinese black tea 0% - Raspberry 0% - - L-Isoleucine 10 g / ml 0% _ -

_

  D, L-Isoleucine 100 g / ml 0% 5.6 30.6 Isoleucine Methyl Ester 100 g / ml 16% 3 8 7 7

_

  Jasmonic acid 100 g / ml 7% 6 25.3 Effects of active agents on the expression of hBD3 (Table II) Assets (used at 1%, w / w) HBD3 MIP3a IL8 Control 0% 6.7 30.9 IFNy 100 % 13.8 97 _ Arnica flower head 460% 3, 9 27.8 Peony flower 192% 0 2 St. John's Wort 126% 2.81 19.7 Horse Chestnut 103% 0.6 36.7 Boldo 86% 1.8 20.1 Hernia Aante 73% 7.8 55 Hibiscus flower 50% 6.5 29.3 Ares uier 45% 0 25.7 Menthe Eoiv 40% 1 4.8 Walnut leaf 27 h 1.4 19.4 Cocoa tree 15% 4.9 22.5 Spirulina 28.8 87 Basil leaf 0% - Chinese black tea 0% - - Raspberry 0% - - Mace root 0% 7.2 30.2 Canada fleabane _ 6 , 1 29.4 0% Elderberry bark 0% 7.5 17.9 Pineapple juice 0% 7.6 39 Quinoa seed meal _ 8 39 0% Sarsaparilla root 0% 4.7 15.4 Sunflower 0% 10.9 68, 6 Pumpkin 0% _ 5.2 33.1 L-Isoleucine 10 g / ml - - D, L-Isoleucine 100 g / ml 0% 5.6 30.6 Isoleucine Methyl Ester 100 g / ml 3, 8 7.7 Jasmonic acid 100 g / ml 0% 6 25.3 Among these assets, those meeting the criteria of our prem Step 1, that is to say, stimulating hBD2 and / or 3 without inducing MIP3 or IL8 cytokine expression are: mugwort root, Canada fleabane, elder bark, hernia, juice pineapple, peppermint, Arequier, cocoa, quinoa, arnica, boldo, sarsaparilla, walnut leaf, hibiscus flower, pumpkin, sunflower, peony, St. John's Wort , horse chestnut or any of their extracts; jasmonic acid, its derivatives and its precursors; esters of isoleucine.

  Spirulina strongly stimulates hBD2 but induces the secretion of IL8 and MIP3 therefore is not retained. Other assets do not stimulate defensins. L-Isoleucine and certain derivatives were tested: no significant stimulation of human defensin 2 or 3 was demonstrated by qualitative RT-PCR.

Example 2

  2nd step of the screening method: The active ingredients that have best met the criteria of the first step are analyzed in a dose-effect.

  A study of the cytotoxicity of the active ingredients retained on increasing doses of 0.01% to 10% is carried out. A viability of 75% is set as a non-cytotoxic concentration limit (max viability%).

  The actives are then tested in 5 concentrations (from 0.001% to max viability) in quadruplicates, on normal human keratinocytes in monolayer on 96-well culture plates, in defined medium without serum enriched in calcium (1.7 mM CaCl 2) (same conditions as example 1).

  After 16h, the supernatants are then collected and the cells are dry frozen at -80 ° C. after rinsing with PBS.

  The total RNAs are extracted using a 96-well extraction kit on silica columns and assayed on a 96-well spectrophotometer at 260 and 280 nm. The RNAs are diluted to 5 ng / l.

  The quantitative RT-PCR in 96 wells on actin, hBD2 and hBD3 is carried out on 50ng of RNA at the beginning, using a one-step kit containing sybrgreen, on a fluorescence thermocycler with the same primers. than previously, at 0.5 M. The amplification program is as follows: 50 C, 30 min; 94 C, 15 min; (94 C, 15 s, 60 C, 30 s, 72 C, 30 s) x 50 cycles; 90 C, 1 min; C, 1 min; 50 C to 95 C (10s every C); 14 C, infinite.

  The study of the melting curves makes it possible to check the specificity of the amplified products. The fluorescence curve as a function of the number of cycles gives the value C (T) corresponding to the number of cycles necessary to have a detachment of the fluorescence signal. The more mRNA is expressed, the lower the C (T) will be. A calculation of Sgene = (1/2) c (T) for each RNA makes it possible to take into account the exponential increase in the number of copies during the amplification. The ratios of hBD2 / actin Sgene and hBD3 / actin Sgene Sgene can be compared to those of the untreated control and thus give the percentage of stimulation obtained.

  The supernatants of the active agents having confirmed their ability to induce defensins are tested by ELISA Kit to determine the levels of MIP3a, IL8 and ILia. These assays are carried out on the same supernatant (200 I) by carrying out a series of dilution (by 1.5 to assay MIP3a and IL8, then by 2 to assay IL1). The levels are then related to the RNA concentration assayed in each well, in order to compare the results between them.

  The inventors can thus confirm the non-inflammatory nature of the selected active ingredients and / or find the optimal stimulation dose of defensins without inducing the secretion of the cytokines of inflammation.

  Stage 2 Results Table: Quantitative RT-PCR allows a basal value of defensin expression for untreated controls, so the results are expressed as a percentage of the control. The cytokines IL8, IL1 and MIP3 are expressed in pg / mI / RNA concentration (in ng / l).

  Dose effects of selected assets in the first stage (Table III) Assets Conc. Viability hBD2 hBD3 MIP3a IL8 ILia Control 100% 100% 100% 5, 6 47.4 26.9 TNFa 100ng / ml - 1755% 774% 23.6 175 21.8 IFNy 100ng / ml 472% 4631% 11.6 100 , 5 40.1 Boldo 0.1% 84% 182% 168% 2.2 33.6 28.2 0.5% 87% 92% 213% 1.45 27.5 25.3 1% 76% 72% 703% 0.4 31.7 20.2 Arnica 0.01% 93% 117% 173% 4.6 51.2 30.1 0.1% 91% 128% 561% 2.5 34.1 38.5 0.3% 75% 138% 1830% 4.1 24.6 37.9 Quinoa 0.1 h 83% 143% 102% 6 58.7 23.4 1% 91% 264% 112% 5.8 50 2 17.7 5% 90% 401% 237% 12.4 150.2 34.4 10% 92 h 92% 438% 7.6 102.8 40.8 Wormwood 0.1% 87% 88% 103% 3 , 2 36.9 39.5 1% 75% 117% 116% 2.9 35 34.9 5% 78% 130 h 452% 3.2 61.6 22.3 10% 83% 104% 3962% 2, 3 66.3 25.8 Arequier 0.1% 87% 88% 84% 2.8 32.2 28.3 1% 77% 35% 261% 0.28 23.7 39.5 2% 70% 98% 2781% 0 7.6 44.8 L-Isoleucine 3.125 - 110% 89% 5.2 36.9 21 (g / ml) 6.25 - 107% 94% 4.9 33.6 22.3 12.5 - 95% 101% 5.9 42.2 25.3 - 110 h 106% 4.5 35.1 22.8 Acid 100 .. 86% 477% 4.6 37.9 31.2 jasmonic 500 - 134% 26919 13.6 103.3 97.1 (g / ml) a-MSH 1 .. 198% 254% 4, 5 34.6 24.7 (ng / ml) ml) 100 - 186% 217% 3.9 41.7 26.1 The quantitative RT-PCR technique therefore confirms the stimulating effect of Boldo, Arnica and areca on hBD3 without cytokine induction. proinflammatory. The mugwort 10% stimulates hBD3 without significantly stimulating the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines, and the Quinoa seed meal stimulates hBD2 from the concentration of 1% active. At 5% it exerts a stimulation of hBD2 and hBD3.

  L-Isoleucine was tested at 4 concentrations (3.125, 6.25, 12.5 and 25 g / ml) described as being able to stimulate bovine defensin 3 (Fehlbaum P. et al., An essential amino acid epithelial 3defensin expression, PNAS 2000; 97: 12723-12728). This amino acid was not able to induce the expression of hBD2 or hBD3 in normal human keratinocytes.

  Jasmonic acid at 100 g / ml and α-MSH are also capable of inducing defensins 2 and / or 3.

  Among these active ingredients, those meeting the criteria of the invention, ie which stimulate hBD2 and / or 3 without inducing expression of MIP3 or IL8 or IL1 cytokines are: boldo, arnica, quinoa, wormwood, areca, or any of their extracts; jasmonic acid, its derivatives and its precursors, the aMSH or one of the peptides constituting alpha-MSH or a chemical structure mimicking one of these peptides.

Example 3

  In the same way as in Example 2, retinoic acid and retinol are tested for their ability to stimulate hBD2 and / or hBD3.

  The results are as follows: Assets Conc. hBD2 hBD3 Control 100% 100% TNFa 100ng / m / 1755%, 774% IFNy 100ng / m / 472% 4631% Acid 0.005% 26% 1.61% Retinoic Retinol 0.01% 168% 17 562% Acidic acid retinoic used at 0.005% weakly stimulates the synthesis of hBD3, and retinol (or vitamin A) weakly stimulates hBD2 and very strongly stimulates hBD3.

  In order to determine whether these products induce irritation or intolerance reactions, three cosmetic formulations were made according to Example 4, using the following variations: E Placebo cream A: No product is added to the formulation the products of the invention according to this example are not added to formulation 10. Cream B: the product of the invention according to this example is retinoic acid and its use concentration in the formula is 0.005 Cream C: The product of the invention according to this example is retinol and its use concentration in the formula is 0.01%. These three formulations are tested in two different ways: 1) By repeated applications on animals, in order to determine the primary skin irritation index of the preparations. 2) By repeated patch applications on human volunteers, to determine the irritant or sensitizing potential of the formulations. For all three formulations, in both studies, no irritation or allergy was detected and retinoic acid and retinol (as well as their precursors and their derivatives) can therefore be considered, at these use concentrations, as inducing no inflammatory reaction, irritation or intolerance.

  EXAMPLE 4 ANTI-WRINKLE CREAM INCI Name Quantity WATER (WATER) QSP 100 GLYCERIN (GLYCERIN) 5 CARBOMER 0.2 TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.1 OIL OF LEAVES (LEAF OIL) from CAMELLIA 2

SINENSIS

  POLYISOBUTENE HYDROGEN 8 GLYCERYL STEARATE SE 2 DIMETHICONE 1 GLYCERYL STEARATE AND PEG-100 STEARATE 1.5 TRIETHYL.HEXANOIN 5 STEARIC ACID 2 CETYL ALCOHOL 1 SILICA 1 DICAPRYLYL MALEATE 6 GLYCERYLSTEARATE 1 DIMETHICONE 3.5 WATER (WATER) 2,3 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0, 5 PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, 0.7 PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN FRAGRANCE 0.3 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.5 RETINOL 0.1 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.03 EXTRACT FROM CENTELLA ASIATICA 1 HYDROLYZED SOY PROTEIN 0.4 PRODUCTS OF THE INVENTION 0.001 to Example 5: Anti-stain serum INCI name Quantity WATER (WATER) QSP 100 TRISODIUM EDTA 0.1 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.1 XANTHAN GUM (XANTHAN GUM) 0.3 PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, 0.65 PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5 POLYSORBATE 20 1 FRAGRANCE 0.05 TOCOPHEROL ACETATE 0.1 SODIUM CITRATE 0.65 MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 1 PRODUCTS OF THE INVENTION 0.001 to 20 Example 6: FOUNDATION INCI Name Quantity WATER (WATER) QSP 100 MAGNESIUM ALUMINUM SILICATE 0, 5 GUM CELLULOSE (CELLULOSE GUM) 0.35 GLYCERIN 3 POLYVINYL PYRROLIDONE (P'VP) DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 0.05 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, 1 PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN XANTHAN GUM (XANTHAN GUM) 0.2 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0, 7 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 4 MINERAL OIL 2 HEXYLDECANOL 3 GLYCERYLSTEARATE 2 STEARIC ACID (STEARIC ACID) 2.4 OLEIC ACID (OLEIC ACID) 0.5 POLYSORBATE 60 0.7 TOCOPHEROL 0.5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) 7 IRON OXIDE (IRON OXIDE) 4 NYLON-2 6 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.01 FRAGRANCE 0.5 PROPYLENE GLYCOL DICAPRYLATE / DICAPRATE 7.2 PRODUCTS OF THE INVENTION 0.001 to 20 Example 7: UVA / UVB PROTECTIVE WHITENING EMULSION INCI name Quantity OCTYLMETHOXYCINNAMATE 4 CETHYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE 3 Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 DIMETHICONE 3 DIMETHICONE 6 CYCLOMETHICONE 4 POLYDECENE 4 METHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, 0.65

ethylparaben

  TOCOPHEROL 0.5 FRAGRANCE 0.8 PPG-3 MYRISTYL ETHER 0.5 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) 8 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.35 SODIUM CITRATE 0.65 MAGNESIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE 3 WATER (WATER) QSP 100 XANTHAN GUM (XANTHAN GUM) 0.4 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2 PRODUCTS OF THE INVENTION 0.001 to 20 Example 8: SLIMMING GEL INCI Name Quantity WATER (WATER) QSP 100 TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.2 CARBOMER 0.5 GLYCERIN 3.0 POLYGLYCERYLMETHACRYLATE AND PROPYLENE 5.0

GLYCOL

  DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 3.0 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5.0 PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, 0.65 PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.5 CAFFEINE 2 OF RUSCUS ACULEATUS 1

_EXTRACT

  PRODUCTS OF THE INVENTION 0.001 to 20 Example 9: MOISTURIZING CREAM INCI Name Quantity WATER (WATER) QSP 100 g CARBOMER 0.35 TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.1 POLYSORBATE 60 3 SORBITAN STEARATE 2, 6 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 2.5 CETYL PALMITATE 4 ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE 5.1 SQUALANE 1 CETHYL ALCOHOL 2.5 CYCLOMETHICONE 1 DIMETHICONE 0.5 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.53 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 5 FRAGRANCE 0.3 PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLPARABEN, 0.65 ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.5 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.03 SOFT ALMOND PROTEIN AND GLYCERIN 2 (SWEET ALMOND PROTEIN AND GLYCERIN) POLYGLYCERYLMETHACRYLATE PRODUCTS OF THE INVENTION 0.001 to 20 Example 10: SHAMPOO INCI Name Quantity WATER (QSP) 100 g XANTHAN GUM (XANTHAN GUM) 0.8 ACID CITRIC (CITRIC ACID) 0.8 SODIUM LAURETH SULPHATE 40 PHENOXYETHANOL, METHYLIPARABEN, 2 ETHYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN PRODUCTS OF THE INVENTION 0.001 to 20

Claims (10)

claims   1. Use of an active ingredient stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of human beta-defensins type 2 (hBD2) and / or human beta-dephensins type 3 (hBD3) and not causing inflammatory reactions (s) ), irritation (s) or intolerance (s) to make a cosmetic composition intended to exert a bactericidal and / or fungicidal activity on the tissues to be treated, in particular on the skin, the mucous membranes, the dander or the scalp .   2. Use of an active ingredient stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of human beta-defensins type 2 (hBD2) and / or human beta-dephensins type 3 (hBD3) and not causing inflammatory reactions (s) ), irritation (s) or intolerance (s) to manufacture a pharmaceutical composition intended to exert a bactericidal and / or fungicidal activity on tissues to be treated, in particular for the treatment and / or the prevention of acne, bacterial or fungal dermatoses.   3. Use of an active ingredient stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of human beta-defensins type 2 (hBD2) and / or human beta-dephensins type 3 (hBD3) and not causing inflammatory reactions (s) ), irritation (s) or intolerance (s) to make a composition in the field of reconstructed tissues, so as to use the bactericidal action of skin beta-defensins in the construction of reconstructed epidermis and skin and in maintaining cutaneous biopsies in survival.   4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition further comprises at least one microbiocidal or microbiostatic agent.   5. Use of an active substance stimulating the expression, direct or indirect, of human beta-defensins type 2 (hBD2) and / or human beta-dephensins type 3 (hBD3) and not causing inflammatory reactions (s) ), irritation (s) or intolerance (s) for making a pharmaceutical composition, further comprising at least one microbiocidal or microbiostatic agent, so as to combine the bactericidal action of cutaneous beta-defensins with the action of antimicrobial agents, especially for the treatment of manifestations related to a microbial component such as dandruff, acne, vitiligo, dermatitis and other pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes, scalp and integuments whose nails .   6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the active ingredient does not appreciably stimulate the production, direct or indirect, proinflammatory molecule (s) or usually co- expressed during inflammatory processes.   7. Use according to claim 6, characterized in that said pro-inflammatory molecules or usually coexpressed during inflammatory processes are in particular MIP 3 alpha (Macrophage Inflammatory Protein), or IL8 or IL1 or another interleukin , or histamine, or tryptase, or substance P, or leukotrienes, or prostaglandins.   8. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the active ingredient does not appreciably stimulate the production, direct or indirect, proinflammatory molecule (s) or usually co- expressed during inflammatory processes, in epithelial cell cultures, in particular cultured keratinocytes and / or corneocytes, or in surviving human skin biopsies, or in reconstructed epidermal models, or in models of reconstructed skin.   9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said active ingredient is present at a concentration of between 0.001% and 20%, preferably between 0.01% and 10%, by weight.   10. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the active ingredient is selected from the mugwort root, the fleabane of Canada, the elderberry, the hernia, the juice of pineapple, peppermint, Arequier, cocoa, quinoa, arnica, boldo, sarsaparilla, walnut leaf, hibiscus flower, pumpkin, sunflower, peony, St. John's Wort, horse chestnut or one of their extracts; jasmonic acid or vitamin A, their derivatives and their precursors; alpha-MSH or one of the peptides constituting alpha-MSH or a chemical structure mimicking one of these peptides; esters of isoleucine; calcium or all organic or mineral salts of calcium.