FR2860716A1 - A composition for use as a smoothing skin cream contains hydroxyacids, heterogenous polyholosides and specified amino-sulfonic compounds, especially 4-(2- hydroxyethyl)piperazine-1-ethane sulfonic acid - Google Patents

Abstract

A composition for topical application to the skin containing one or more hydroxyacids, one or more heterogenous polyholosides and one or more specified amino-sulfonic compounds. The amino-sulfonic compounds are of formula (I) and their physiologically acceptable salts. [Image] R : H, -OH, -NH2; X : O, structures of formulae (i) and (ii); n : 0-3. [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to a composition adapted to a

  topical application to the skin and containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hydroxy acid, at least one heterogeneous polyholoside and at least one aminosulfonic compound.

  It also relates to a cosmetic process for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular for reducing wrinkles and / or skin spots and / or smoothing the skin and / or lightening the complexion, comprising topical application to the skin of the aforementioned composition.

  The human skin consists of two compartments namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

  The natural human epidermis is composed mainly of three types of cells, which are the keratinocytes, a very large majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the body by the skin.

  During the so-called keratinization process, the keratinocytes located in the basal layer of the epidermis multiply and grow, pushing the older epidermal cells upwards and towards the surface of the epidermis. During this displacement, these cells flatten and differentiate to form keratin. The superficial dead cells resulting from this process of keratinization (corneocytes) constitute the stratum corneum of the epidermis where they are separated by lipid layers and linked together by protein bonds (corneosomes). These dead cells are gradually removed from the surface of the skin and replaced by new keratinized cells.

  In young, healthy skin, the skin peeling that occurs is characterized by the removal of individual cells or small clumps of cells. On the contrary, with age or in the case of certain pathologies, the desquamation can be altered, in that an excess of keratin material is formed on the surface of the skin, resulting either in an elimination of the stratum corneum in form of scales (skin aging, dry skin), or an obstruction of the sebaceous follicles (acne).

  The use of desquamating agents, such as α-hydroxy acids and β-hydroxy acids (in particular salicylic acid), is therefore generally indicated in the cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the aforementioned skin disorders.

  Nevertheless, the desire to maintain a youthful appearance and / or healthy skin always leads to the unceasing search for new compounds and / or new compositions to maintain or improve the appearance of the skin.

  However, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, a new combination of desquamating compounds particularly effective for smoothing cutaneous irregularities without generating unacceptable discomfort for the user. The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition suitable for topical application to the skin and containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hydroxy acid, at least one heterogeneous polyholoside and at least one amino-sulphonic compound chosen from compounds corresponding to the following formula (I):

O

\ N 'n SAO

X - R OH (I)

  in which: - R denotes a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from -OH and - NH2, - X denotes: - an oxygen atom, - a group N.OH or O // - a group N 1 n SAO N is 0, 1, 2 or 3, and their physiologically acceptable salts.

  The invention extends its scope to the optical and / or geometric isomers of the compounds of formula (I), alone or as a mixture in all proportions.

  Hydroxy acids The hydroxy acids that can be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from α-hydroxy acids, such as citric, lactic, glycolic, tartaric, mandelic and / or malic acids, and (3-hydroxyacids, such as salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

  A combination of noctanoyl-5-salicylic acid and glycolic acid is preferably used according to the invention.

  The hydroxy acids may represent from 0.001 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and most preferably from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the composition.

  Heterogeneous polyholosides By "heterogeneous polyholoside" is meant according to the present invention polymers consisting of the combination of different monosaccharides or monosaccharides having the same crude chemical formula but of different geometrical configuration (D and L isomers for example) .

  These polymers are distinguished both from polyheterosides, which consist of one or more monosaccharides and a non-carbohydrate moiety, and homogeneous polyholosides, which result from the association of the same monosaccharide.

  Thus, the heterogeneous polyholoside according to the invention consists solely of sugars and results from the combination of at least two different oses.

  The polyholosides according to the invention may consist of 2 to 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly known as oligoholosides, or of more than 10 monosaccharides, compounds commonly known as polyholosides.

  The monosaccharides present in the polyholoside according to the invention may be chosen from all the contemplable sugars, of natural or synthetic origin, and especially such as: aldoses, such as pentose: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiosis, for example hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example, ketoses such as fructose, deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose, derivatives of ose, such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids, or itols such as mannitol or sorbitol.

  In the context of the present invention, it is possible to use a heterogeneous polyholoside alone, or a mixture of heterogeneous polyholosides.

  Preferably, the heterogeneous polyholoside comprises at least one fucose unit, which may be present in an amount of 10-90% by weight, preferably 15-35% by weight, based on the weight of dry matter polyholoside.

  In particular, the polyholoside according to the invention may comprise fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example may comprise a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid. Such a polyholoside is especially available from SOLABIA under the trade name Fucogel 1000 PP.

  The polyholosides according to the invention are preferably introduced into the composition in the form of an aqueous solution which may comprise 0.1 to 5% by weight of polyholoside.

  The polyholoside may be present in the final composition in an amount of from 0.001 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight and most preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight.

  Amino-sulphonic compounds Among the compounds of formula (I) preferably used according to the invention, mention may be made of: 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-ethanesulphonic acid, which corresponds to the following formula: ## STR2 ## 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1- (2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid) which has the following formula:

O S-0H

  HONom / OH 0 - 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-propanesulfonic acid which corresponds to the following formula:

O

NS-OH I I O

  3-morpholinopropanesulfonic acid which corresponds to the following formula: ## STR2 ## 2-morpholinoethanesulfonic acid which corresponds to the following formula: ## STR2 ##

HO

  piperazine-1,4-bis- (2-ethanesulphonic acid) which has the following formula: - Piperazine-1,4-bis (2-hydroxypropanesulphonic acid) which responds in the following formula: ## STR5 ##

O

  Among these compounds, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazin-1-ethanesulphonic acid or HEPES, marketed in particular by the company APPLICHEM, is particularly preferred.

  The amount of amino-sulfonic compound of formula (I) that can be used according to the invention can represent from 0.001 to 20%, preferably from 0.01 to 10% and better still from 0.1 to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

  The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. Thus, the composition according to the invention preferably has a pH of less than 8, more preferably, less than or equal to 7 and more preferably between 6 and 7.

  The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of lotion or gel-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (HIE) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an O / W emulsion.

  As oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as vegetable oils, or shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, especially of fatty acids, for example pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, or octyldodecanol; silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain; and - their mixtures.

  When present, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to oils, other fatty substances such as: fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by Shin-Etsu.

  These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

  This composition may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as emulsifiers including glyceryl stearate and poly (ethylene oxide) stearates; fillers, in particular with a soft-focus effect such as colloidal silica dispersions, or block copolymers as described in US-6,013,682; conservatives; sequestering agents; dyes; perfumes; and thickeners and gelling agents, in particular polyacrylamides and acrylic copolymers. The amounts of these various adjuvants and their nature will be chosen so as not to affect the properties of the composition according to the invention.

  The composition according to the invention makes it possible to smooth without discomfort the visible and tactile irregularities of the cutaneous surface.

  The invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic process for attenuating the visible or tactile irregularities of the surface of the skin, in particular for reducing wrinkles and fine lines and / or skin spots and / or smoothing the skin and / or lightening the skin. complexion, comprising the topical application to the skin of the aforementioned composition.

  To enhance the effects of the composition according to the invention, it may contain at least one compound chosen from: moisturizing agents such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid and in particular glycerine; depigmenting agents such as vitamin C and its derivatives; agents stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; and anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents, in particular tocopherol and its esters.

  The composition according to the invention may further contain at least one UVA and / or UVB filter. The sunscreens may be chosen from organic screening agents, inorganic screening agents and mixtures thereof.

  The more particularly preferred organic filters are chosen from the following compounds: ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, 4 Methylbenzylidene campre, terephthalylidene dicamphersulfonic acid, 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine, anisotriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bisbenzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and mixtures thereof.

  The inorganic filters are chosen from pigments or even nanopigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoated metal oxides, such as, for example, nanopigments. titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium.

  The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, the amounts are given in percent by weight.

  EXAMPLES Example 1 Cream for Dry Skin An HIE emulsion having the composition below is prepared in a manner conventionally for the person skilled in the art. 0.05% Glycolic acid N-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid 0.200 / 0 Heterogeneous 1% polyholoside in water 5.00% (Fucogel 1000 PP SOLABIA) Hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid 1.00% Alcohol 2,000 / 0 Glycerine 3,000 / 0 50% Tocopherol in Soybean Oil 0.10% Glyceryl Stearate 0.50% Silicone Elastomer in Oil 2.60% (SHIN-ETSU KSG-6) Disodium EDTA 0.050 / 0 Oils 25.00% Fillers 2.50% Thickening polymers 2.00% Preservatives qs Neutralizer qs pH = 6.5 Perfume qs Water qs 100.00% This composition can be applied morning and / or evening on the face to moisturize and 35 smooth the skin.

  EXAMPLE 2 Cream for Normal to Combination Skins An HIE emulsion having the composition below is prepared, in a conventional manner for a person skilled in the art.

  Lactic acid 0.05% Salicylic acid 0.30% Heterogeneous polyholoside 1% in water (Fucogel 1000 PP SOLABIA) 5.00% Hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid 1.00% Alcohol 4.00% Glycerin 3.00 % Tocopherol at 50% in soybean oil 0.10% Glyceryl stearate 0.50% Silicone elastomer in oil (KSG-6 from SHIN-ETSU) 2.60 disodium EDTA 0.05% Oils 20.00% Charges 2.50% Thickening Polymers 2.00% Preservatives qs Neutralizer qs pH = 6.5 Perfume qs Water qs 100.00% This composition can be applied morning and / or evening on the face to smooth and refine the skin. skin texture and brighten the complexion.

Claims (11)

  A composition adapted for topical application to the skin and containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hydroxy acid, at least one heterogeneous polyholoside and at least one amino-sulphonic compound chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I) (I) in which: - R denotes a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from -OH and - NH2, - X denotes: - an oxygen atom, an -esteal group at 0, 1, or 3, and their salts physiologically acceptable.   2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hydroxy acid is chosen from α-hydroxy acids and 3 hydroxy acids.   3. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the ahydroxy acid is chosen from citric, lactic, glycolic, tartaric, mandelic and / or malic acids.   4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the hydroxy acid is selected from salicylic acid and noctanoyl-5-salicylic acid. or O f   a group N n SAO OH 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains a combination of n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid and glycolic acid.   6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the hydroxy acids represent from 0.1 to 1% of the total weight of the composition.   7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polyholoside comprises a linear sequence of α-L-fucose, α-D-10 galactose and galacturonic acid.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polysaccharide represents from 0.01 to 0.1% of the weight of the composition.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the amino-sulfonic compound is 4- (2hydroxyethyl) piperazine-1-ethanesulfonic acid.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the amount of amino-sulfonic compound of formula (I) used according to the invention represents from 0.1 to 5% of the total weight of the composition .   11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion HIE.