FR2851655A1 - Instrument for sampling material from the surface of keratinic fibers, comprises ceramic elements with surfaces shaped to collect material fitted to branches of a holder - Google Patents

Abstract

An instrument for sampling material from the surface of keratinic fibers, comprises two ceramic elements (10, 20) attached to the facing surfaces of two branches (31, 32) of a holder (30) so that a keratinic fibre such as a hair or eyelash can be gripped between them as they are brought together, collecting material from its surface as the fiber is drawn between them. The instrument consists of two ceramic elements (10, 20) attached to the facing surfaces of two branches (31, 32) of a holder (30) so that a keratinic fibre such as a hair or eyelash can be gripped between them as they are brought together, collecting material from its surface as the fibre is drawn between them. The ceramic material used for the elements is able to withstand a temperature of at least 200 [deg]C and especially at least 400 [deg]C and/or withstand a pressure of at least 20 and especially at least 50 bars. The elements can be fastened detachably to the branches of the support, e.g. by means of interlocking shaped surfaces (33, 34). The second of the two elements (20) has its working surface shaped to guide the keratinic fibres, e.g. in the form of a row of teeth or two rows of teeth that the first element can fit between. The first element's working surface has a groove to collect material between two sharp edges.

Description

i

  The present invention relates to devices making it possible to take samples of material from the surface of keratin fibers, in particular hair or eyelashes.

  There is a need to benefit from a device making it possible to take a material sample from the surface of keratin fibers, in particular from the hair, which is relatively simple to use and which makes it possible to take the material under conditions facilitating its analysis, especially without contamination by solvents or detergents.

  There is still a need to benefit from a device facilitating the analysis of the material sampled with relatively high temperature and / or pressure conditions, in particular by liquid or gas chromatography.

  The invention aims to meet all or part of these needs.

  The invention therefore relates to, according to a first of its aspects, a device for taking a material sample from the surface of at least one keratinous fiber, in particular a hair, comprising first and second movable elements, one by 15 relative to each other and between which the keratin fiber can be pinched when the two elements are brought together, the first element at least having a surface state allowing it to take material from the surface of the keratin fiber.

  In a preferred implementation of the invention, the first element at least comprises a ceramic and, preferably, the two elements each comprise a ceramic. The two elements can in particular each consist of a ceramic.

  It may be advantageous to use a ceramic which withstands a temperature of at least 200 ° C., in particular of at least 400 ° C. and / or a pressure of at least 20 bars, in particular of at least 50 bars. , or even 100 bars, in order to allow the use of the ceramic with the sample of material sampled in a liquid or gas chromatograph, without having to transfer the material sampled by the ceramic to another support. By "ceramic" is meant an inorganic, non-metallic material, obtained by using a heat treatment during its process of preparation.

  When the first element is made of a ceramic, the latter has a relief or roughness making it possible to tear off material on the surface on which the sampling must be carried out. The roughness of the ceramic may correspond, for example, to that of an abrasive surface whose particle size can range from P12 to P2500, the roughness being defined by the standards ISO 6344-1, ISO 6344-2 and ISO 6344-3.

  The second element can be made with a less rough, even smooth ceramic.

  The first element advantageously includes at least one cavity on its face intended to come into contact with the keratinous fiber or fibers from which the sample is to be taken.

  By "cavity" is meant any relief or roughness capable of receiving the material removed and of retaining it at least partially on the surface of the element; a cavity 10 includes in particular a hollow relief visible to the naked eye or using an optical magnification means.

  Thanks to the invention, the sample can be taken dry, which facilitates the use of the device at a point of sale or by a single person, on himself.

  In addition, the material sample taken may not be contaminated with a detergent liquid or with adhesives or solvents. This can make it possible to envisage a set of efficient analysis techniques without the risk of interference from the sample preparation environment.

  Finally, the invention can make it possible, by moving the device over the keratinous fiber or fibers with a determined pressure, to remove the material dry and without contamination under conditions which can be described as reproducible, which can allow a more precise evaluation. and / or more complete with a state, in particular capillary, of the individual being sampled.

  The aforementioned cavity is for example in the form of a longitudinal groove open in the direction of the second element.

  This groove can be formed at the end of a rib, the latter being delimited longitudinally by two blades for example.

  The device advantageously comprises a support on which at least the first element can be fixed in a removable manner, which can make it possible to separate it for the analysis of the sampled material.

  Preferably, the two elements can be fixed removably on the support, which makes it possible to replace the elements between each sampling.

  At least one of the elements can be arranged so that it can be fixed by complementarity of shapes on the support, for example by snap-fastening or friction, which makes it possible to avoid the use of adhesives capable of polluting the material removed.

  The device may include sterile packaging, making it possible to avoid contamination of the elements before removal.

  The sampling device can be used directly by an individual at home, or be used at a point of sale or in a specialized center, in particular in a beauty salon or in a research center.

  The analysis of the material sampled by the device can in particular allow the characterization of the constituents of the surface of the hair, and therefore to establish a bioanalytical typology of this surface then allowing personalized adaptation of the cosmetic treatments. This analysis also constitutes a complementary means of evaluating the performance of these treatments.

  The invention can also make it possible to provide information on mechanical, biochemical, bacteriological, enzymatic and / or analytical parameters relating to the individual from whom the material was taken. The device can thus be used for example to collect traces of pollution captured by the cuticle of the hair.

  The material can be analyzed with a gas or liquid chromatograph, normal or reverse, by X-rays, by spectrophotometric observation means, by UV or infrared or Raman fluorescence, this list not being exhaustive.

  The second element may include at least one relief to guide the keratinous fiber or fibers during the removal of material.

  This relief can for example be produced in the form of at least one row of 25 teeth extending along the element.

  In particular, the second element can comprise for example two parallel rows of teeth between which the first element can engage. The teeth can come to bear against the first element, which allows for example to leave a predefined height interval between the two elements during the sampling.

  The second element may also include a row of teeth defining notches oriented transversely to the longitudinal axis of the element, the first element being able to bear against the top of the teeth. The height of a tooth, in particular when the other element bears against the top of the teeth, can be chosen so that the depth of the corresponding notch is less than the diameter of a hair.

  The two elements can also be arranged so as to allow the keratinous fiber or fibers present between them to be clamped with a predefined force.

  The second element can have, for example, a substantially flat face against which the other element can be applied in the absence of keratin fiber between the two elements.

  The support on which the first element at least 10 is removably fixed may comprise two parts hinged together.

  These two parts can be recalled towards each other by an elastic return action, which comes for example from the presence of an elastic return member such as a helical spring, in the manner of a hair clip. , or the realization of the support with an elastically deformable part.

  The subject of the invention is also a process for removing material from the surface of keratin fibers, in particular hair, this process which can be characterized, according to another aspect of the invention, by the fact that it comprises the step consisting moving along at least one keratinous fiber a device comprising first and second movable elements relative to each other and between which the keratinous fiber 20 can be pinched when the two elements are brought together, the first element at least having a surface condition allowing it to take material from the surface of the keratin fiber.

  Once the sample has been taken, the first element can be separated from the device, being sent for example to an analysis center so that an analysis of the sample material is carried out.

  The result of the analysis and / or information relating to the sample sent to the analysis center can be transmitted to the sender of the sample, for example to the individual tested, by a computer network (intranet or internet). ) and / or telephone, in order to be received for example on a personal computer or a portable terminal.

  Another subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a method for prescribing a treatment, in particular cosmetic, this method comprising the step consisting in prescribing at least one product, in particular cosmetic, according to the result of '' an analysis of the material sampled by means of a device as defined above.

  The product which is prescribed may in particular be a cosmetic product intended to be applied to an external portion of the human body, in particular a product for caring for and / or coloring the hair or scalp.

  "Cosmetic product" means a product as defined in Council Directive 93/35 / EEC of June 14, 1993.

  "Cosmetic treatment" means treatment using a cosmetic product thus defined.

  By way of non-limiting example of cosmetic products, mention may be made of any product intended to reduce the signs of aging of the hair, to nourish and / or maintain the skin, the scalp or the hair, to color the hair, to combat against scaling of the scalp, etc.

  The invention will be better understood on reading the detailed description which follows, of nonlimiting examples thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: - Figure 1 is a schematic view of side of an example of a device produced in accordance with the invention, intended to allow a removal of material from the hair, - FIG. 2 represents the two elements of the device of FIG. 1 in isolation and in perspective, - FIG. 3 is a view along III of FIG. 2, - FIGS. 4 and 5 represent in isolation alternative embodiments of the support, - FIG. 6 represents in isolation and in perspective an alternative embodiment of the elements, - FIG. 7 is a view along VII of the Figure 6, - Figure 8 shows another alternative embodiment of the elements, - Figure 9 is a view along IX of Figure 8, - Figure 10 is a schematic view along X of Figure 8, and - Figure 1 1 represents re partial and schematic in perspective, in isolation, two elements according to another variant implementation of the invention.

  The sampling device 1 represented in FIG. 1 comprises two elements and 20 fixed on a support 30 in the example considered in the form of a clamp, making it possible to bring the elements 10 and 20 together during a sampling.

  The support 30 comprises in the example considered two branches 31 and 32 5 connected to one end 33 and which can deform elastically when the user brings them closer, these branches 31 and 32 being for example made of spring steel or of a material flexible plastic.

  Means are provided to allow removable fixing of the elements 10 and 20 on the branches 31 and 32.

  In the example considered, these fixing means comprise for example two reliefs 33 and 34 produced respectively on the branches 31 and 32 and arranged to cooperate by complementarity of shapes with notches 11 and 21 provided respectively on the elements 10 and 20.

  The assembly between each relief 33 or 34 and the corresponding notch 11 or 21 is for example of the mortise tenon type but could be other, for example of the snap type, or involve other parts such as for example screws or clips.

  Each element 10 and 20 is produced in the example described in ceramic.

  Preferably, the first element is made of rough ceramic 20 while the second element is made of smooth ceramic.

  It is possible, for example, to use a reference ceramic from Saint Gobain, Advanced Ceramics, AF 997 for the first element 10 and of the pastille type based on alumina, alumina zirconia or sintered silica for the second element 20.

  In the example considered, the element 10 comprises a rib 12 extending over its entire length, this rib 12 being provided at the end with a groove 13 formed between two blades 14 and 15. This groove 13 is intended to receive the material removed when at least one hair is moved in contact with the rib 12 in a direction substantially perpendicular thereto.

  The element 20 has two rows 22 and 23 parallel of teeth 24 and the rib 12 is arranged so as to be able to engage between these two rows 22 and 23 when the elements 10 and 20 are brought against each other , as can be seen in FIG. 3. In this position, the distance h between the region of the second element 20 extending between the rows 22 and 23 and the top of the blades 14 and 15 is slightly less than the diameter of a hair, so that material can be removed from its surface without breaking it. The distance h is for example between 25 and 120 ptm.

  In the example of FIG. 1, the user can hardly exert a controlled pressure on the hair, because during the removal, the teeth 24 come to bear by their free end against the first element 10.

  The support 30 can be produced differently without departing from the scope of the present invention, for example to allow the application of a predefined pressure on the hair.

  In particular, the support can be produced in such a way that the two elements are applied against each other with a predetermined force at rest.

  There is shown in Figure 4 a support 30 'according to an alternative embodiment.

  This support has two branches 31 'and 32' hinged together.

  In this example, the device further comprises an elastic return member such as for example a spring, intended to return the two branches 31 'and 32' towards each other at rest.

  FIG. 5 shows a support 30 "comprising two branches 31", 32 "which intersect. At rest, the ends of the branches 31" and 32 "are close to each other, or even in support l 'one against the other, due to the shape given to the branches 31 "and 32". To spread the ends of the branches 31 "and 32", the user must press them substantially at mid-length thereof. branches 31 "and 32" then deform elastically, so that when the user releases the pressure, the elements 10 and 20 carried by branches 31 "and 32" can be applied against one another 25 with a predefined strength.

  The first and second elements can be produced with shapes different from those of the example in FIGS. 1 and 2.

  The second element 20 ′ can in particular be produced with a notch 40, concave in the direction of the first element 10, not extending over the entire length of the element 20 ′ and comprising, for example near its longitudinal ends, two dishes 41 against which the rib 12 can come to bear.

  FIG. 8 shows a second element 20 "according to yet another variant.

  This second element 20 "comprises a row of teeth 45, which define between them notches 46 which extend transversely to the longitudinal axis of the element.

  The depth p of these notches 46 is less than the diameter d of a hair, as can be seen in FIG. 10, so that the hair engaged in the notches 46 can be pressed against the rib 12 and of the material removed on their surface.

  The second element can also be produced with a flat face 50 facing the first element 10, as can be seen in FIG. I1.

  In the device of this figure, the first and second elements 10 and 20 "'can exert on the keratin fiber a force which is not limited by the support of one of the elements on the other, so that the Figure 11 device is particularly suitable for supports 30 'and 30 "of Figures 4 and 5, wherein the first and second elements are applied against each other with a predefined force.

  To take a sample of hair material, one or more hairs are placed between the first and second elements, then the latter are brought together so as to pinch the hair or hairs and the device is moved along the hair or hairs over a certain distance . The operation can be repeated, if necessary, a predefined number of times.

  Once the sample has been taken, the first element can be detached from the support and the material sampled is analyzed.

  The first element can be placed in sterile packaging for shipment to an analysis center. As a variant, a protection can be put in place on the support and the assembly sent to the analysis center.

  The first element can also be introduced into a device present at the place of sampling and making it possible to analyze the material sampled.

  For use at a point of sale or in a beauty salon in particular, the device can advantageously be arranged so as to facilitate the installation and replacement of the first element and include, for example, means which make it possible to extract the first element of its support by actuating an extraction member.

  Where appropriate, the device may include an element-holder tip which is separated from the device when a new use is to take place, a new element being put in place with another tip.

  The analysis center can transmit the result of the analysis by mail or by a computer or telephone network.

  Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples which have just been described.

  It is also possible to use, as the first element, a ceramic whose face intended to be applied against the surface on which the sample 10 is to be taken has reliefs other than those illustrated, for example cavities on the surface due to the size of the grains of ceramic material.

  The sampling device according to the invention can be applied not only to the removal of material from the hair but also to the removal of material from hair on the skin, for example, or the eyelashes and eyebrows.

  Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

Claims (22)

  1. Device for taking a material sample from the surface of at least one keratinous fiber, in particular a hair or an eyelash, comprising a first (10) 5 and a second (20; 20 '; 20 "; 20"') elements movable with respect to each other and between which the keratin fiber can be pinched when the two elements are brought together, the first element (10) at least having a surface state allowing it to take material from the surface keratin fiber.   2. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that the first element (10) at least comprises a ceramic.   3. Device according to claim 1, characterized in that the two elements each comprise a ceramic.   4. Device according to claim 2 or 3, characterized in that the ceramic is capable of withstanding a temperature of at least 200 0C, in particular of at least 400 0C and / or a pressure of at least 20 bars, in particular at least 50 bars.   5. Device according to any one of claims i to 4, characterized in that it comprises a support (30; 30 '; 30 ") on which at least the first element (10) can be removably attached.   6. Device according to claim 5, characterized in that the two elements can be detachably fixed on the support.   7. Device according to one of claims 5 and 6, characterized in that at least one of the elements is arranged so as to be able to be fixed by complementary shapes on the support.   8. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second element (20; 20 '; 20 ") comprises at least one relief (24; 40; 45) for guiding the keratinous fiber or fibers during of material removal.   9. Device according to claim 8, characterized in that the second element comprises at least one row of teeth (24; 45).   10. Device according to claim 9, characterized in that the second element comprises two rows (22, 23) of parallel teeth (24) between which the first element can engage. he   11. Device according to claim 10, characterized in that the teeth (24) can come to bear against the first element (10), which allows to leave a predefined height interval between the two elements during sampling.   12. Device according to claim 9, characterized in that the second element comprises a row of teeth (45) defining notches (46) oriented transversely to the longitudinal axis of the element, the first element (10) being able to come to rest against the top of the teeth.   13. Device according to claim 12, characterized in that the height of a tooth (45) is chosen so that the depth of the corresponding notch (46) is less than the diameter of a hair.   14. Device according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is arranged so as to allow to clamp with a predefined force the keratinous fiber or fibers present between the elements.   15. Device according to claim 14, characterized in that the second element has a substantially flat face against which the other element can be applied in the absence of keratin fiber between the two elements.   16. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the support on which the first element is detachably fixed at least has two parts hinged together.   17. Device according to claim 16, characterized in that the two parts are biased towards one another by an elastic return action.   18. Method for removing material from the surface of keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises the following step consisting in moving along at least one keratin fiber a device comprising first and second movable elements one with respect to the other and between which the keratin fiber can be pinched when the two elements are brought together, the first element at least having a surface condition allowing it to take material from the surface of the keratin fiber.   19. The method of claim 18, characterized in that once the sample has been taken, the first element (10) is separated from the device.   20. The method of claim 19, characterized in that the first element (10) is sent to an analysis center so that an analysis of the sampled material is carried out.   21. The method of claim 20, characterized in that the result of the analysis and / or information relating to the sample sent to the analysis center are transmitted to the sender of the sample, in particular to the individual tested, by a computer and / or telephone network.   22. Method for prescribing a cosmetic treatment, characterized in that it comprises the following step consisting in prescribing at least one cosmetic product according to the result of an analysis of a sample of material taken by means of 'A device as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17.