FR2847164A1 - Artificial sebum composition useful for evaluating the sebum resistance of cosmetics and measuring the sebum uptake of powders comprises glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate - Google Patents

Artificial sebum composition useful for evaluating the sebum resistance of cosmetics and measuring the sebum uptake of powders comprises glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate Download PDF

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Publication number
FR2847164A1
FR2847164A1 FR0214463A FR0214463A FR2847164A1 FR 2847164 A1 FR2847164 A1 FR 2847164A1 FR 0214463 A FR0214463 A FR 0214463A FR 0214463 A FR0214463 A FR 0214463A FR 2847164 A1 FR2847164 A1 FR 2847164A1
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FR
France
Prior art keywords
sebum
cholesterol
squalene
oleyl oleate
oleic acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
FR0214463A
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French (fr)
Inventor
Frederic Auguste
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Publication date
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Priority to FR0214463A priority Critical patent/FR2847164A1/en
Publication of FR2847164A1 publication Critical patent/FR2847164A1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185—Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/20—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having a carboxyl group bound to a chain of seven or more carbon atoms, e.g. stearic, palmitic, arachidic acids
    • A61K31/201—Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having a carboxyl group bound to a chain of seven or more carbon atoms, e.g. stearic, palmitic, arachidic acids having one or two double bonds, e.g. oleic, linoleic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/01—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/21—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates
    • A61K31/215—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates of carboxylic acids
    • A61K31/22—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates of carboxylic acids of acyclic acids, e.g. pravastatin
    • A61K31/23—Esters, e.g. nitroglycerine, selenocyanates of carboxylic acids of acyclic acids, e.g. pravastatin of acids having a carboxyl group bound to a chain of seven or more carbon atoms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/56—Compounds containing cyclopenta[a]hydrophenanthrene ring systems; Derivatives thereof, e.g. steroids
    • A61K31/575—Compounds containing cyclopenta[a]hydrophenanthrene ring systems; Derivatives thereof, e.g. steroids substituted in position 17 beta by a chain of three or more carbon atoms, e.g. cholane, cholestane, ergosterol, sitosterol

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Artificial sebum composition comprises glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate.

Description

La présente invention a pour objet une composition de sébum artificielThe subject of the present invention is an artificial sebum composition

comprenant un mélange de corps gras particuliers.  comprising a mixture of specific fatty substances.

Les produits cosmétiques appliqués sur la peau comme les produits de maquillage ou les produits de soin de la peau, ainsi que les produits capillaires appliqués sur les cheveux sont en contact avec le sébum secrété par la peau au cours de la journée et les propriétés cosmétiques des produits peuvent être altérées par le sébum. Par exemple, pour un fond de teint, le sébum présent sur la surface de la peau nuit à la bonne tenue du maquillage.  Cosmetic products applied to the skin such as makeup or skin care products, as well as hair products applied to the hair, are in contact with the sebum secreted by the skin during the day and the cosmetic properties of the products can be affected by sebum. For example, for a foundation, the sebum present on the surface of the skin harms the good performance of the makeup.

Pour pallier ces inconvénients, les cosméticiens ont besoin de disposer d'un sébum artificiel simulant le sébum présent sur la surface de la peau pour pouvoir développer des produits cosmétiques performants et notamment tester leur efficacité vis-à-vis du sébum.  To overcome these drawbacks, cosmeticians need to have an artificial sebum simulating the sebum present on the surface of the skin in order to be able to develop high-performance cosmetic products and in particular to test their effectiveness against sebum.

Le but de la présente invention est de disposer d'une composition de sébum artificiel dont les propriétés telles que la densité, la température de fusion, la viscosité sont très proches du sébum présent sur la surface de la peau.  The object of the present invention is to have an artificial sebum composition whose properties such as density, melting temperature, viscosity are very close to the sebum present on the surface of the skin.

Les inventeurs ont découvert qu'un tel sébum artificiel est obtenu en utilisant un  The inventors have discovered that such an artificial sebum is obtained by using a

mélange de corps gras particuliers.  mixture of specific fatty substances.

De façon plus précise, l'invention a pour objet une composition de sébum artificiel constituée d'un mélange de trioléate de glycéryle, d'acide olélque, d'oléate  More specifically, the invention relates to an artificial sebum composition consisting of a mixture of glyceryl trioleate, olelic acid, oleate

d'oléyle, de squalène, de cholestérol et de palmitate de cholestérol.  oleyl, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate.

Avantageusement, la teneur de chaque ingrédient dans la composition selon l'invention est croissante dans l'ordre suivant des ingrédients: palmitate de cholestérol < cholestérol < squalène < oléate d'oléyle < acide oléque  Advantageously, the content of each ingredient in the composition according to the invention increases in the following order of the ingredients: cholesterol palmitate <cholesterol <squalene <oleyl oleate <oleic acid

< trioléate de glycéryle.<glyceryl trioleate.

En particulier, la teneur de chaque ingrédient choisi parmi l'oléate d'oléyle, l'acide oléique, la trioléate de glycéryle est supérieure à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition et la teneur de chaque ingrédient choisi parmi le 35 palmitate de cholestérol, le cholestérol, le squalène est inférieure à 15 % en poids.  In particular, the content of each ingredient chosen from oleyl oleate, oleic acid, glyceryl trioleate is greater than 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and the content of each ingredient chosen from 35 cholesterol palmitate, cholesterol, squalene is less than 15% by weight.

Un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention est une composition de sébum artifciel constituée de: - trioléate de glycéryle 29 % - acide oléque 28,5 % - oléate d'oléyle 18,5 % - squalène 14 % - cholestérol 7 %  A preferred embodiment of the invention is an artificial sebum composition consisting of: - glyceryl trioleate 29% - oleic acid 28.5% - oleyl oleate 18.5% - squalene 14% - cholesterol 7%

2 28471642 2847164

- palmitate de cholestérol 3 % La composition de sébum artificiel selon l'invention peut être utilisée pour évaluer la résistance au sébum de produits cosmétiques ou dermatologiques, notamment d'un produit de maquillage tel qu'u fond de teint, une poudre pour le visage, un eyeliner, un mascara, un rouge à lèvres; d'un produit capillaire telle qu'une coloration capillaire, un produit de coiffage, un shampooing d'un produit de soin de la peau tel qu'une crème de jour pour le visage.  - cholesterol palmitate 3% The artificial sebum composition according to the invention can be used to assess the sebum resistance of cosmetic or dermatological products, in particular of a makeup product such as a foundation, a powder for the face , an eyeliner, a mascara, a lipstick; a hair product such as a hair color, a styling product, a shampoo of a skin care product such as a day cream for the face.

La composition de sébum artificiel peut également être utilisée pour mesurer la prise de sébum d'une poudre absorbant le sébum. La poudre peut être par exemple de la silice.  The artificial sebum composition can also be used to measure the sebum uptake of a sebum absorbing powder. The powder may for example be silica.

L'invention est illustrée plus en détail dans l'exemple ci-après.  The invention is illustrated in more detail in the example below.

Exemple 1Example 1

On a préparé un sébum artificiel ayant la composition suivante: trioléate de glycéryle 29 % - acide olélque 28,5 % - oléate d'oléyle 18,5 % - squalène 14 % - cholestérol 7 % - palmitate de cholestérol 3 %  An artificial sebum was prepared having the following composition: glyceryl trioleate 29% - olelic acid 28.5% - oleyl oleate 18.5% - squalene 14% - cholesterol 7% - cholesterol palmitate 3%

Ce sébum artificiel convient pour mesurer la prise de sébum de poudres absor30 bant le sébum en utilisant notamment le protocole de mesure de prise d'huile décrite dans la norme NF T-30-022 et en utilisant comme huile la composition de sébum artificiel du présent exemple.  This artificial sebum is suitable for measuring the sebum uptake of powders absorbing the sebum using in particular the oil uptake measurement protocol described in standard NF T-30-022 and using as oil the artificial sebum composition of the present example.

Ce sébum artificiel convient également pour évaluer la résistance au sébum de  This artificial sebum is also suitable for assessing the sebum resistance of

produits cosmétiques tels que les produits de maquillage appliqués sur la peau.  cosmetic products such as makeup products applied to the skin.

3 28471643 2847164

Claims (6)

REVENDICATIONS 1. Composition de sébum artificiel constituée d'un mélange de trioléate de glycéryle, d'acide oléque, d'oléate d'oléyle, de squalène, de cholestérol et de palmitate de cholestérol.  1. Composition of artificial sebum consisting of a mixture of glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate. 2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée par le fait que la teneur de chaque ingrédient est croissante dans l'ordre suivant des ingrédients: palmitate de cholestérol < cholestérol < squalène < oléate d'oléyle < acide olélque2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of each ingredient is increasing in the following order of the ingredients: cholesterol palmitate <cholesterol <squalene <oleyl oleate <olelic acid < trioléate de glycéryle.<glyceryl trioleate. 3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée par le fait que la teneur de chaque ingrédient choisi parmi l'oléate d'oléyle, l'acide oléque, la trioléate de glycéryle est supérieure à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composi15 tion et la teneur de chaque ingrédient choisi parmi le palmitate de cholestérol, le  3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the content of each ingredient chosen from oleyl oleate, oleic acid, glyceryl trioleate is greater than 15% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition and the content of each ingredient chosen from cholesterol palmitate, cholestérol, le squalène est inférieure à 15 % en poids.  cholesterol, squalene is less than 15% by weight. 4. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée par le fait qu'elle est constituée de:  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of: - trioléate de glycéryle 29 % - acide oléque 28,5 % - oléate d'oléyle 18, 5 % - squalène 14 % - cholestérol 7 % - palmitate de cholestérol 3 %  - glyceryl trioleate 29% - oleic acid 28.5% - oleyl oleate 18.5% - squalene 14% - cholesterol 7% - cholesterol palmitate 3% 5. Utilisation d'une composition de sébum artificiel selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes pour évaluer la résistance au sébum de produits cosmétiques ou dermatologiques.  5. Use of an artificial sebum composition according to any one of the preceding claims for evaluating the sebum resistance of cosmetic or dermatological products. 6. Utilisation d'une composition de sébum artificiel selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4 pour mesurer la prise de sébum d'une poudre absorbant le sébum.  6. Use of an artificial sebum composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for measuring the sebum uptake of a powder absorbing sebum.
FR0214463A 2002-11-19 2002-11-19 Artificial sebum composition useful for evaluating the sebum resistance of cosmetics and measuring the sebum uptake of powders comprises glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate Withdrawn FR2847164A1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

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FR0214463A FR2847164A1 (en) 2002-11-19 2002-11-19 Artificial sebum composition useful for evaluating the sebum resistance of cosmetics and measuring the sebum uptake of powders comprises glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate

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FR0214463A FR2847164A1 (en) 2002-11-19 2002-11-19 Artificial sebum composition useful for evaluating the sebum resistance of cosmetics and measuring the sebum uptake of powders comprises glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate

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FR2847164A1 true FR2847164A1 (en) 2004-05-21

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FR0214463A Withdrawn FR2847164A1 (en) 2002-11-19 2002-11-19 Artificial sebum composition useful for evaluating the sebum resistance of cosmetics and measuring the sebum uptake of powders comprises glyceryl trioleate, oleic acid, oleyl oleate, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol palmitate

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011056535A3 (en) * 2009-10-26 2011-08-11 International Flora Technologies Ltd. Human sebum mimetics derived from botanical sources and methods for making the same

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4259202A (en) * 1979-02-27 1981-03-31 Toyo Contact Lens Co., Ltd. Cleaning and preservative solution for contact lenses
US4657690A (en) * 1983-04-15 1987-04-14 L'oreal Washing and foaming composition based on non-ionic surface-active agents and anionic polymers
US4664835A (en) * 1983-04-15 1987-05-12 L'oreal Washing and foaming composition based on surface-active agents and anionic polymers
US4762847A (en) * 1985-10-04 1988-08-09 Beecham Group P.L.C. Method of treating acne
WO1998050510A1 (en) * 1997-05-02 1998-11-12 Unilever Plc Hard surface cleaning composition
EP1096255A2 (en) * 1999-10-29 2001-05-02 Shiseido Company Limited Method for measuring skin absorbability

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4259202A (en) * 1979-02-27 1981-03-31 Toyo Contact Lens Co., Ltd. Cleaning and preservative solution for contact lenses
US4657690A (en) * 1983-04-15 1987-04-14 L'oreal Washing and foaming composition based on non-ionic surface-active agents and anionic polymers
US4664835A (en) * 1983-04-15 1987-05-12 L'oreal Washing and foaming composition based on surface-active agents and anionic polymers
US4762847A (en) * 1985-10-04 1988-08-09 Beecham Group P.L.C. Method of treating acne
WO1998050510A1 (en) * 1997-05-02 1998-11-12 Unilever Plc Hard surface cleaning composition
EP1096255A2 (en) * 1999-10-29 2001-05-02 Shiseido Company Limited Method for measuring skin absorbability

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011056535A3 (en) * 2009-10-26 2011-08-11 International Flora Technologies Ltd. Human sebum mimetics derived from botanical sources and methods for making the same
US8343468B2 (en) 2009-10-26 2013-01-01 International Flora Technologies, Ltd. Human sebum mimetics derived from botanical sources and methods for making the same
USRE44718E1 (en) 2009-10-26 2014-01-21 International Flora Technologies, Ltd. Human sebum mimetics derived from botanical sources and methods for making the same

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