FR2841155A1 - Production of a cosmetic product comprises granulating a powder and agglomerating the granules with other granules - Google Patents
Production of a cosmetic product comprises granulating a powder and agglomerating the granules with other granules Download PDFInfo
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- FR2841155A1 FR2841155A1 FR0207601A FR0207601A FR2841155A1 FR 2841155 A1 FR2841155 A1 FR 2841155A1 FR 0207601 A FR0207601 A FR 0207601A FR 0207601 A FR0207601 A FR 0207601A FR 2841155 A1 FR2841155 A1 FR 2841155A1
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- grains
- binding agent
- product
- fact
- agglomeration
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B01—PHYSICAL OR CHEMICAL PROCESSES OR APPARATUS IN GENERAL
- B01J—CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROCESSES, e.g. CATALYSIS OR COLLOID CHEMISTRY; THEIR RELEVANT APPARATUS
- B01J2/00—Processes or devices for granulating materials, e.g. fertilisers in general; Rendering particulate materials free flowing in general, e.g. making them hydrophobic
- B01J2/28—Processes or devices for granulating materials, e.g. fertilisers in general; Rendering particulate materials free flowing in general, e.g. making them hydrophobic using special binding agents
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
thermique.thermal.
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La presente invention concerne un procede de fabrication d'un produit The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a product
cosmetique, un tel produit cosmetique et une utilisation d'un produit cosmetique. cosmetic, such a cosmetic product and a use of a cosmetic product.
Wile trouvera son application particulierement pour la realisation de produits de s maquillage et notamment pour ['application de produit sur la peau sous forme de fard Wile will find its application particularly for the production of make-up products and in particular for the application of product to the skin in the form of make-up.
ou autre poudre.or other powder.
On conna/t du document EP-A-0.327.739 un materiau composite a base de titane et de mica comprenant du mica et un premier revetement compose de dioxyde Document EP-A-0.327.739 discloses a composite material based on titanium and mica comprising mica and a first coating composed of dioxide
de titane qui recouvre la surface du mica. of titanium which covers the surface of the mica.
o Ce materiau comprend en outre un second revetement compose de particules o This material also includes a second coating composed of particles
pulverulentes d'au moins un metal selectionne qui recouvre le premier revetement. pulverulent of at least one selected metal which covers the first coating.
Ce materiau composite est utilisable comme colorant notamment dans le This composite material can be used as a dye, especially in the
domaine cosmetique.cosmetic area.
Son usage comme pigment doit cependant s'accompagner de la presence Its use as a pigment must however be accompanied by the presence
d'autres materiaux ayant particulierement des proprietes emollientes. other materials particularly having emollient properties.
Par ailleurs, la durete des perles obtenues par le document anterieur est tres e/evee et ne permet pas une application tres fine sur la peau ce qui est Furthermore, the hardness of the pearls obtained by the previous document is very high / high and does not allow a very fine application on the skin which is
dommageable a ['aspect final du produit cosmetique une fois applique. harmful to the final appearance of the cosmetic product once applied.
La presente invention permet de remedier aux inconvenients des produits et o procedes connus jusqu'a present et presente pour ce faire un nouveau procede permettant la realisation d'une structure d'un produit cosmetique ayant la structure d'une perle disposant d'une cohesion certaine tout en permettant un ecrasement et une decohesion de la perle lors de ['application notamment par un simple effort de l'utilisateur au moyen d'un pinceau ou autre dispositif pour ['application de produit The present invention makes it possible to remedy the drawbacks of the products and processes known hitherto and presents to do this a new process allowing the realization of a structure of a cosmetic product having the structure of a pearl having a cohesion certain while allowing a crushing and a decohesion of the pearl during ['application in particular by a simple effort of the user by means of a brush or other device for [' product application
cosmetique sur la peau.cosmetic on the skin.
Le produit selon ['invention presente done une structure coherente mais est fragile c'est-a-dire apte a etre ecrase ou etale en produisant de tres fines particules particulierement appropriees pour des produits de maquillage afin de produire un The product according to the invention therefore has a coherent structure but is fragile, that is to say capable of being crushed or spread out by producing very fine particles which are particularly suitable for make-up products in order to produce a
effet d'une grande finesse sur la peau. very fine effect on the skin.
o Compte ten u de la tail le des pa rticules u ne fois appliq uees, I 'appl ication est o Taking account of the size of the particles once applied, the application is
particulierement reguliere sur la peau et la repartition homogene. particularly regular on the skin and homogeneous distribution.
Un autre avantage de ['invention est de proposer un procede de fabrication qui Another advantage of the invention is to provide a manufacturing process which
soit rapide a executer.be quick to execute.
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En outre, suivant une variante de ['invention, on peut donner une couleur differente a la couche exterieure du produit cosmetique de fa,con a produire un effet de surprise de l'utilisateur au moment de ['application, I'ecrasement du produit cosmetique procurant ['apparition, sous la couche exterieure, d'un produit de couleur In addition, according to a variant of the invention, the outer layer of the cosmetic product can be given a different color so as to produce a surprise effect for the user at the time of application, the crushing of the product. cosmetic providing the appearance, under the outer layer, of a colored product
s differente.s different.
D'autres buts et avantages appara^'tront au cours de la description qui suit Other objects and advantages will become apparent from the following description.
d'un mode prefere de realisation de ['invention qui n'est cependant pas limitatif. of a preferred embodiment of the invention which is not, however, limiting.
La presente invention concerne un procede de fabrication d 'u n prod u it cosmetique, caracterise par le fait qu'il comporte les etapes suivantes de o granulation: - impregnation d'une matiere pulverulente avec un agent liant pour former des grains, - sechage des grains, - pulverisation d'un agent liant sur les grains, - agglomeration d'autres grains autour des grains pulverises, The present invention relates to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic product, characterized in that it comprises the following stages of o granulation: - impregnation of a pulverulent material with a binding agent to form grains, - drying of grains, - pulverization of a binding agent on the grains, - agglomeration of other grains around the pulverized grains,
- sbchage du produit obtenu.- sbhage of the product obtained.
Ce procede peut se presenter suivant les variantes enoncees ci-apres: - on utilise un agent liant comportant une ou plusieurs cires naturelles dans une solution alcoolique; o - on tamise le produit obtenu; - on renouvelle les etapes de pulverisation, d'agglomeration et du sechage jusqu'a l'obtention de la taille souhaitee pour le produit cosmetique; - on augmente ia dilution de ['agent liant au fur et a mesure des etapes de granulation; s - on effectue les derrieres etapes de d'agglomeration avec une matiere pulverulente de couleur differente; This process can be presented according to the variants set out below: - a binding agent is used comprising one or more natural waxes in an alcoholic solution; o - the product obtained is sieved; - the spraying, agglomeration and drying stages are repeated until the desired size for the cosmetic product is obtained; - the dilution of the binding agent is increased as the granulation steps progress; s - the last stages of agglomeration are carried out with a pulverulent material of different color;
- on effectue les etapes de granulation dans une turbine. - the granulation steps are carried out in a turbine.
- on effectue un recouvrement de finition avec une matiere pulverulente non impregnee. o - on choisit ['agent liant pour limiter la force d'agglomeration des grains a une valeur predeterminee correspondent a ['effort moyen applicable par pression nouvelle. - a finishing covering is carried out with a pulverulent material which is not impregnated. o - the binding agent is chosen to limit the agglomeration force of the grains to a predetermined value corresponding to the average force applicable by new pressure.
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L'i nvention concerne egalement u n prod u it cosmetiq ue caracterise par le fa it qu'il est compose d'une pluralite de grains a base d'une matiere pulverulente, lesdits The invention also relates to a cosmetic product characterized by the fact that it is composed of a plurality of grains based on a pulverulent material, said
grains etant agglomeres par un agent liant. grains being agglomerated by a binding agent.
Ce produit peut se presenter sous les modes de realisation enonces ciapres: This product can be presented in the embodiments listed below:
- la force d'agglomeration des grains est limitee a une valeur predeterminee correspondent a ['effort moyen applicable par pression nouvelle; - I'agent comporte une ou plusieurs cires naturelles; - la matiere pulverulente comprend un melange de mica et d'oxyde de titane; les grains formant la surface peripherique ont une couleur differente des o autres grains - les grains formant la surface peripherique vent de plus faible granulometrie - the agglomeration force of the grains is limited to a predetermined value corresponding to the average force applicable by new pressure; - the agent comprises one or more natural waxes; - the pulverulent material comprises a mixture of mica and titanium oxide; the grains forming the peripheral surface have a different color from other grains - the grains forming the peripheral surface have a smaller particle size
que les autres.than the others.
L'invention concerne egalement une utilisation d'un produit cosmetique pour la The invention also relates to a use of a cosmetic product for the
fabrication d'u n prod u it de maq u il lage. manufacturing of a make-up product.
Les poudres utilisees pour realiser ces perles vent des poudres de couleurs variees (avec pigments) presentant une granulometrie tres fine de 5 a 25,um. Cette granulometrie rend tres difficile l'utilisation de turbines a drageification car la poudre vole dans la turbine et le local de fabrication. II est done important dans un premier temps, de realiser une << pre-granulation >> (impregnation massive avec ['agent liant o en turbine ou melangeur humide) permettant d'obtenir des grains de granulometrie The powders used to make these pearls have powders of various colors (with pigments) having a very fine particle size of 5 to 25 μm. This particle size makes it very difficult to use drageification turbines because the powder flies in the turbine and the manufacturing room. It is therefore important at first, to carry out a "pre-granulation" (massive impregnation with the binding agent in a turbine or wet mixer) making it possible to obtain granulometry grains.
plus grosse d'environ 100,um.larger by about 100, um.
Une fois que cette pre-granulation est realisee on peut scinder la poudre Once this pre-granulation is done we can split the powder
impregnee en deux parties.impregnated in two parts.
Une partie de la poudre precedente est remise en turbine, I'autre partie est Part of the previous powder is put back in a turbine, the other part is
rajoutee progressivement a la precedente apres pulverisation de la solution liante. gradually added to the previous one after spraying the binder solution.
L'interet est le suivant: les grains de 100 m issus de la pre-granulation vent recouverts de grains de meme dimension d'ou une granulation plus rapide qu'avec des particules de 5 a 25 gm de diametre et un gain de productivite. Les operations de granulation vent repetees en moyenne trots foist Apres ces cycles de granulation, o on procede au tamisage. Les perles de petite dimension vent reprises en turbine The interest is as follows: the 100 m grains coming from the pre-granulation are covered with grains of the same size or from a granulation faster than with particles from 5 to 25 gm in diameter and a gain in productivity. The granulation operations are repeated on average three times after these granulation cycles, where sieving is carried out. Small wind pearls taken up in a turbine
pour etre re-granulees selon le procede precedemment decrit. to be re-granulated according to the previously described process.
Ces operations de granulations vent reconduites jusquta ce que toutes les These granulation operations are continued until all
fines atteignent la granulometrie superieure. fines reach the upper particle size.
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On procede de la meme fa,con pour les granulometries de 400, 700, 1000, 2000,um par accumulation successive de couches de poudre de granulometrie We proceed in the same way, con for the particle sizes of 400, 700, 1000, 2000, um by successive accumulation of layers of granulometry powder
moyenne de 100,um et de solution liante. average of 100 µm and binder solution.
On decrit ci-apres un mode prefere de realisation de ['invention pour la s constitution d ' u n prod u it cosmetiq ue sous forme de perles de fard ayant u ne granulometrie appropriee et pouvant etre colorees et parfumees, destinees au A preferred embodiment of the invention is described below for the constitution of a cosmetic product in the form of eyeshadow pearls having an appropriate particle size and which can be colored and perfumed, intended for
maquillage des joues et des paupieres. make-up of the cheeks and eyelids.
Selon cet exemple, on part d'une poudre fine pigmentee a base de mica et According to this example, we start with a fine pigmented powder based on mica and
d'oxyde de titane bien que ce melange ne soit pas limitatif de ['invention. of titanium oxide although this mixture is not limitative of the invention.
o En effet, tout autre poudre fine pouvant s'etaler sur la peau est utilisable. o Indeed, any other fine powder that can spread on the skin can be used.
On utilise par ailleurs un agent liant preferentiellement constitue d'un melange de cires naturelles dans une solution organique (avantageusement une solution In addition, a binding agent is preferably used consisting of a mixture of natural waxes in an organic solution (advantageously a solution
d'alcool a 95 % dans laquelle ['agent d'enrobage est dilue a 40 %). 95% alcohol in which the coating agent is diluted to 40%).
Le procede selon ['invention se met en couvre par l'intermediaire des etapes The method according to the invention is covered by means of the steps
suivantes.following.
Dans un premier temps, on realise ['impregnation de la matiere pulverulente First, we carry out the impregnation of the pulverulent matter
(par exemple la poudre de mica et d'oxyde de titane) avec ['agent liant. (eg mica powder and titanium oxide) with the binding agent.
Cette impregnation s'effectue en turbine ou dans un melangeur de poudre et a pour effet d'augmenter fortement la granulometrie de la matiere pulverulente, ce qui This impregnation is carried out in a turbine or in a powder mixer and has the effect of greatly increasing the particle size of the pulverulent material, which
o rend plus rapide l'obtention de la taille souhaitee pour le produit. o makes it faster to obtain the desired size for the product.
On procede ainsi a un sechage des grains soit par simple evaporation soit par des moyens de sechage additionnels par exemple sous une temperature de 40 C The grains are thus dried either by simple evaporation or by additional drying means, for example at a temperature of 40 ° C.
durant deux heures.for two hours.
Cependant, dans le cadre d'utilisation d'un agent d'enrobage en solution alcooliq ue, I' evaporation se prod uit rapid ement ce q u i a l 'avantage de ne pas However, in the context of the use of a coating agent in alcoholic solution, evaporation occurs rapidly which has the advantage of not
necessiter systematiquement de moyens additionnels de sechage. systematically require additional drying means.
On realise ensuite une serie de granulometrie dont le nombre est fonction de We then carry out a series of granulometry whose number is a function of
la dimension souhaitee pour les grains du produit cosmetique. the desired size for the grains of the cosmetic product.
Pour chaque granulometrie, on place dans une turbine une certaine quantite For each particle size, a certain quantity is placed in a turbine.
o de la matiere pulverulente impregnee. o impregnated pulverulent matter.
On pulverise ensuite ['agent destine a lier les grains. The agent intended to bind the grains is then sprayed.
Quand la masse de matiere pulverulente devient humide et collante, on ajoute de la matiere pulverulente impregnee de fa,con a ce que celle-ci vienne se deposer When the mass of pulverulent material becomes moist and sticky, pulverulent impregnated pulp is added so that it comes to settle.
autour des grains deja formes.around the grains already formed.
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ss
On forme ainsi une agglomeration des grains ajoutes autour des premiers. This forms an agglomeration of the grains added around the former.
Ces etapes vent renouvelees a plusieurs reprises suivant ['application These steps are repeated several times depending on the application.
souhaitee et la granulometrie souhaitee. desired and the desired particle size.
On fait ensuite un sechage dans la turbine par exemple d'une duree de 5 mn a It is then dried in the turbine for example for a duration of 5 min a
s 40 C.s 40 C.
Le procede de fabrication de ['invention peut egalement comporter une etape de tamisage consistent a utiliser un tamis aux dimensions souhaitees pour les perles et a rep rend re les perles inferieu res a u seu il determine afin de reprodu ire les etapes The manufacturing method of the invention may also include a sieving step consisting in using a sieve of the desired dimensions for the pearls and to make the pearls lower than at a given level in order to reproduce the steps.
de granulation.granulation.
o A titre prefere, on augmente la dilution de ['agent liant au fur et a mesure des etapes de granulation et ce, pour eviter que les differentes agglomerations de grains o As a preference, the dilution of the binding agent is increased as the granulation stages progress, in order to avoid the different agglomerations of grains
ne collent entre elles.don't stick together.
Par exemple, on pourra diluer ['agent d'enrobage jusqu'a 10% dans une For example, the coating agent may be diluted up to 10% in a
solution alcoolique a 95%.95% alcoholic solution.
s A titre prefere, la derriere etape de granulation est effectuee avec des grains d'une couleur differente afin de constituer une couche peripherique exterieure s As a preference, the last granulation step is carried out with grains of a different color in order to form an outer peripheral layer
differente en pigmentation du ccour du produit cosmetique. different in pigmentation from the cosmetic product.
De cette fa,con, lors de la decohesion du produit notamment par ecrasement sur la peau, on decouvre un produit de couleur differente a son aspect exterieur initial. Tel qu'indique precedemment, le produit cosmetique selon ['invention offre un compromis entre la cohesion necessaire au stockage, a l'emballage et a ['application d u prod u it tout en permettant ensu ite u n ecrasement et u ne decomposition des In this way, con, during the decohesion of the product in particular by crushing on the skin, we discover a product of different color to its initial external appearance. As indicated above, the cosmetic product according to the invention offers a compromise between the cohesion necessary for storage, packaging and application of the product while at the same time allowing crushing and decomposition of the
agglomerate tels que fabriques.agglomerate such as factories.
Cet ecrasement assure la realisation finale d'une couche cosmetique de faible granulometrie. La force de cohesion realisee par ['agglomeration des grains lors des phases de granulation sera adaptee en fonction de la force d'ecrasement minimale souhaitee This crushing ensures the final realization of a cosmetic layer of small particle size. The cohesive force produced by the agglomeration of the grains during the granulation phases will be adapted as a function of the desired minimum crushing force.
lors de la sollicitation de l'utilisateur. when prompted by the user.
so On choisira une force d'agglomeration des grains inferieure a la force susceptible d'etre appliquee par l'utilisateur notamment au moyen d'un pinceau de maquillage. A titre indicatif, la pression manuelle exercee par un utilisateur sur un pinceau n / a A particle agglomeration force will be chosen which is less than the force capable of being applied by the user, in particular by means of a makeup brush. As an indication, the manual pressure exerted by a user on a brush
de maquillage correspond a un effort compris entre 0,05 et 0,3 Newtons. make-up corresponds to an effort of between 0.05 and 0.3 Newtons.
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De cette fa,con, le produit cosmetique pourra facilement etre ecrase et sa In this way, the cosmetic product can easily be crushed and its
structure d'agglomerat supprimee.agglomerate structure removed.
Suivant une variants, on realise les phases de granulation finales avec une matiere pulverulente non impregnee pour obtenir une couche superficielle de plus grande finesse et de regularite accrue. Par ailieurs, cette couche presenters des couleurs plus vives car la According to a variant, the final granulation phases are carried out with non-impregnated pulverulent material to obtain a surface layer of greater finesse and increased regularity. In addition, this layer presents more vivid colors because the
pigmentation n'est pas attenuee par la presence de ['agent liant. pigmentation is not attenuated by the presence of the binding agent.
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Claims (15)
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Cited By (13)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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FR2935265A1 (en) * | 2008-09-03 | 2010-03-05 | Docteur Gaetano Zannini Lab | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING MICRO-PEARLS |
WO2013107776A2 (en) | 2012-01-17 | 2013-07-25 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising encapsulated pigments and reflective particles predispersed in an oil |
EP2774603A1 (en) | 2013-03-06 | 2014-09-10 | L'Oréal | Colour changing composition in emulsion form comprising an emulsifying hydrophilic gelifying agent |
EP2774597A1 (en) | 2013-03-06 | 2014-09-10 | L'Oréal | Colour changing composition in emulsion form comprising a partially neutralized, crosslinked acrylic homopolymer or copolymer |
EP2823804A1 (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2015-01-14 | L'Oréal | Color changing composition comprising pigments and a high amount of water |
EP2823803A1 (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2015-01-14 | L'Oréal | Color changing composition in O/W emulsion in the form of oleosomes |
EP2823805A1 (en) | 2013-07-12 | 2015-01-14 | L'Oréal | Color changing composition in O/W emulsion form comprising a gemini surfactant |
WO2015099198A1 (en) | 2013-12-26 | 2015-07-02 | L'oreal | Transparent composition containing oil and microcapsules |
EP2939654A1 (en) | 2014-04-30 | 2015-11-04 | L'Oréal | Composition comprising microcapsules containing silicone elastomer |
EP2939655A1 (en) | 2014-04-30 | 2015-11-04 | L'Oréal | Composition comprising microcapsules containing reflective particles |
EP2939653A1 (en) | 2014-04-30 | 2015-11-04 | L'Oréal | Composition comprising microcapsules containing particles with a high wet point |
US11065593B2 (en) | 2015-09-03 | 2021-07-20 | Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd. | Microcapsules encapsulating a reflective agent |
FR3122088A1 (en) | 2021-04-21 | 2022-10-28 | L'oreal | COLOR CHANGING COMPOSITION IN AQUEOUS GEL FORM |
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