EP3958986A1

EP3958986A1 - Compound comprising a functional agent and a waxy matrix including an organosilicon material, and associated manufacturing method

Info

Publication number: EP3958986A1
Application number: EP20754313.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Sébastien GOUGEON; Quentin DAUPHIN; Laetitia SELLAL; Stephane Nicolas; Pauline BOSMET
Original assignee: Miyoshi Europe SAS
Current assignee: Miyoshi Europe SAS
Priority date: 2019-04-26
Filing date: 2020-04-23
Publication date: 2022-03-02
Also published as: WO2020217024A1; US20220183957A1; FR3095341B1; JP2022531145A; FR3095341A1; CN114040748A

Abstract

The invention relates to a compound (1) comprising at least 50% by weight of a functional agent, characterized in that it also comprises a waxy matrix (3) having at least one organosilicon material, which organosilicon material forms the greater part by weight of said waxy matrix (3) and preferably the entirety thereof, within which said functional agent, formed by solid particles (2), is dispersed. Said compound (1) is solid at room temperature and intended to be dispersed by fluidization and/or solubilization within a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition for integrating said functional agent therein. The invention also relates to the formulation of cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions.

Description

COMPOUND CONSISTING OF A FUNCTIONAL AGENT AND A WAX DIE INCLUDING AN ORGANOSILICIAL MATERIAL, AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING

AFFERENT

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to the general technical field of substances and compounds used in the field of the formulation of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions, in particular of the type of compound comprising a functional agent, for example of pigment type.

The present invention relates more particularly to a compound comprising at least 50% by weight of a functional agent.

The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a compound.

Finally, the present invention relates to a process for manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

PRIOR ART The manufacture of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions usually requires bringing together a certain number of substances and compounds in order to mix them into a homogeneous material, that is to say one which has a regular distribution of the various compounds and substances, and which is stable, namely in particular without phase separation over time, by sedimentation or creaming, for example, or other undesirable phenomenon such as coalescence or flocculation.

To this end, it is known to have recourse to solid pigments which are ground into fine particles by grinding units, before being incorporated into a cosmetic composition in order to color it or to reinforce its matt or shiny appearance. The implementation of these ground pigments, although giving overall satisfaction in their final use, nevertheless presents certain drawbacks.

One of the major drawbacks of the use of these ground pigments in the production of a cosmetic composition lies in the pulverulent nature of the latter, which makes the storage, transport and handling of these ground pigments complex, expensive, messy, and even pollutants, while presenting a non-negligible risk concerning the safety of living beings and installations, as well as significant difficulties relating to the cleaning and / or elimination of these ground pigments. In general, the finer the grinding of the pigments and therefore the smaller the pigment particles, the more complex their management becomes. In addition, the powdery state of these pigments gives them a large specific surface area (real surface / low mass), which in turn leads to significant reactivity, and therefore in particular an increased risk of degradation over time, or even a risk of accident. , in particular of the explosion type.

In addition, grinding units are often specialized and very expensive, while the grinding process itself can prove to be particularly long and complex depending on the nature and desired size of the ground pigment particles, which may vary according to requirements. for example aesthetic, organoleptic and / or qualitative. These grinding units, in most cases, due to their cost and complexity, are not dedicated specifically to the specific grinding of a pigment, and therefore require adjustments to grind a pigment to other specifications, such as different particle size, or to grind other types of pigments. Thus, these grinding units generally carry out different “batches” or batches of several types and sizes of ground pigments which must then be stored, transported and used at the level of different units for manufacturing cosmetic compositions. On the one hand, this results in a multiplicity of batches of powdery pigments that are difficult to manage (storage, transport, handling in particular when mixing with other substances to formulate a cosmetic composition, avoidance of mixtures of different pigments), and on the other hand that the cosmetic composition manufacturing units are almost always distinct and distant from the cosmetic composition units. grinding, which further complicates the management (in particular the transport) of the ground pigments.

Ultimately, the integration, as it is currently practiced, of ground pigments in cosmetic compositions, is insufficient in terms of ease of use, storage, transport, safety, and cost.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

The invention therefore proposes to remedy the various drawbacks described above by proposing a new compound which not only proves capable of being easily integrated into a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, but also exhibits great ease of use. works with regard to its management and in particular its transport, storage and handling.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound of extremely simple and inexpensive design.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound which is particularly easy to handle.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound which is particularly easy to transport and store.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound that is easy to integrate effectively into cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound whose design allows it to obtain good repeatability as a component for the formulation of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions. Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound whose design allows it to be used in a very wide range of applications, in particular for a very wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound presenting a minimal risk to the safety of living beings and which does not degrade the installations.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a novel compound which can be easily industrialized, using a minimum number of different substances.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a new compound which degrades very little or not at all over time.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a method of manufacturing a compound whose implementation is simple, easy and inexpensive, and has good repeatability and good safety for the user.

Another object of the invention aims to provide a process for manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, the application of which is rapid, easy to control and easy, while ensuring optimum safety conditions.

The objects assigned to the invention are achieved using a compound comprising at least 50% by weight of a functional agent, characterized in that it also comprises a waxy matrix, comprising at least one organosilicon material, said organosilicon material forming the major part by weight, preferably all, of said waxy matrix, within which said functional agent, formed of solid particles, is dispersed, said compound being solid at room temperature and intended to be dispersed by fluidization and / or solubilization in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to integrate said functional agent therein. The objects assigned to the invention are also achieved using a process for the manufacture of a compound comprising at least 50% by weight of a functional agent, characterized in that it comprises at least: a step of heating a waxy matrix comprising at least one organosilicon material in order to obtain a fluid matrix, said organosilicon material forming the major part by weight, preferably all, of said waxy matrix, a step of dispersing said functional agent, formed of solid particles, within said fluid matrix, said compound being solid at room temperature and intended to be dispersed by fluidization and / or solubilization within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to integrate said functional agent therein.

The objects assigned to the invention are further achieved using a process for manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising a redispersion step during which a compound as mentioned above is added to then mixed with one or more components acceptable in cosmetics and / or dermatology.

SUMMARY DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Other features and advantages of the invention will become apparent and will emerge in more detail on reading the description given below, with reference to the accompanying drawings, given by way of purely illustrative and non-limiting examples, in which:

FIG. 1 schematically illustrates, in a side view, an example of a compound according to the invention, which is in this case in the form of a rod obtained by extrusion.

FIG. 2 schematically illustrates, on a microscopic or nanometric scale, a detail of the compound of FIG. 1. FIG. 3 schematically illustrates, in a side view, part of an example of production equipment allowing the implementation of a process for manufacturing a compound according to the invention, according to a particular embodiment including implementing an extrusion step.

BEST WAY TO MAKE THE INVENTION

As illustrated in the figures, the invention relates to a compound 1. Said compound 1 is therefore preferably formed of several different elements, more precisely of a relatively homogeneous and stable mixture of several substances, materials, different materials together, all advantageously acceptable on the surface. cosmetic and / or dermatological plan, that is to say suitable for being integrated within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Compound 1 therefore advantageously exhibits a very low or even zero level of toxicity with regard to the use of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

According to the invention, compound 1 comprises at least 50% by weight of a functional agent. According to a preferred embodiment, compound 1 comprises (strictly) more than 50%, preferably (strictly) more than 60%, more preferably at least 70%, more preferably still at least 80%, or even even more preferably at least. less 85%, more preferably still at least 90%, by weight, of said functional agent. Said functional agent is advantageously chosen in an appropriate manner, so as to form an element acceptable to be integrated within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Thus, a high proportion of functional agent within compound 1 is particularly advantageous when the latter constitutes an intermediate (or possibly quasi-finished) product intended to be redispersed with other components to form a finished cosmetic and / or dermatological product. . In fact, said compound 1 advantageously serves as an intermediate “support” or “vehicle” for the functional agent, and it is therefore preferable that the proportion of functional agent in compound 1 is as high as possible on the one hand. so that the final formulation (that is to say the finished cosmetic and / or dermatological product) is not or only very little dependent on the nature of the substances other than said functional agent within said compound 1, and on the other hand for obvious reasons of cost, storage and transport, an intermediate compound having a low content of functional agent must by definition be used in greater quantity and therefore occupying a larger volume for an overall greater weight for a given quantity of functional agent, while the substances other than said functional agent within said compound 1, being in larger proportions, represent a significant cost which n 'is moreover not valued in the final formulation (or even "parasitizes said final formulation", or finished cosmetic and / or dermatological). Preferably, said functional agent is intended to fulfill one or more very specific functions within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. For example, said functional agent is intended to form a physical sunscreen, in particular within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of sunscreen type, that is to say it is intended to form a physical barrier, preferably opaque, between the ultraviolet rays of the sun and the skin of a user of said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

According to the invention, said functional agent is formed of solid particles 2, that is to say which are preferably solid at least at room temperature, and even solid at higher temperatures, such as for example between 30 and 90 ° vs. Preferably, said solid particles are insoluble in water. Preferably, said solid particles have an average size of between 10 nm and 500 μm, preferably between 100 nm and 100 μm. Said average size therefore preferably denotes the average particle size of said particles 2, and in particular their average diameter or even an average maximum dimension of said particles, which can be measured in particular using only a sample of said particles.

For example, said solid particles 2 comprise at least organic and / or inorganic pigments (that is to say inorganic), organic and / or inorganic fillers, composite materials and / or biocomposites, or a mixture of these. this. According to a particular embodiment, said solid particles 2 are mainly, or even totally, formed of inorganic pigments, which may consist for example of sodium dioxide. titanium, iron oxide (s), chromium oxide (s), ultramarine pigment (s) (ultramarine blue or violet for example), tin oxide (s) and / or zinc oxide. Said organic pigments consist for example of carbon black and / or organic lakes. Said mineral fillers consist, for example, of talc, mica, sericite, kaolin, silica, hydroxyapatite, barium sulphate, perlite, calcium carbonate, and / or borosilicates. Said organic fillers consist for example of starch, cellulose, polymers of natural or synthetic origin, and / or silicone polymers and resins. Said composites and / or biocomposites include, for example, one or more nacres. When said solid particles are pigments, the functional agent is for example intended to color a cosmetic and / or dermatological formulation, or to protect the skin from the sun (case of sunscreen mentioned above, the solid particles 2 forming in particular a solar filter). When said solid particles 2 are fillers, the functional agent may for example be intended to modify the organoleptic properties of a cosmetic and / or dermatological formulation.

Still according to the invention, compound 1 also comprises a waxy matrix 3 within which said functional agent is dispersed. In other words, said functional agent, and more precisely said solid particles 2, is / are advantageously mixed with said waxy matrix 3 and scattered within the latter, preferably in a homogeneous manner, that is, that is to say according to a regular volume distribution. Advantageously, within the compound 1, the waxy matrix 3 and said solid particles 2 form, from a macroscopic point of view, a single phase, and it is impossible to differentiate with the naked eye the waxy matrix 3 from said solid particles 2. .

According to the invention, said waxy matrix 3 comprises at least one organosilicon (or organosilicon) material. It can also optionally comprise a plurality of different organosilicon materials.

According to the invention, said organosilicon material forms the major part by weight, preferably all, of said waxy matrix 3. In other words, the organosilicon material forms at least 50% by weight, advantageously at least 75% by weight. , preferably at less 90% by weight, even more preferably substantially 100% by weight of said waxy matrix 3. Alternatively, or in addition to the configuration described above, said waxy matrix 3 is mainly formed by weight, preferably in totality, of a plurality of different organosilicon materials, that is to say that said organosilicon material is in this case formed of a plurality of different organosilicon compounds.

Said waxy matrix 3 may optionally comprise, in addition to said organosilicon material, at least one other waxy material such as a natural, mineral and / or synthetic wax, a fatty substance which is solid at room temperature resulting from the fractionation of one or more oil (s). ) natural and / or synthetic (s), a natural and / or synthetic resin, a silicone wax or silicone polymer, or a mixture of these.

Advantageously, said organosilicon material (or the plurality of different organosilicon materials) is part of the silsesquioxane family, which have the general formula (RSi03 / 2) n, R representing a carbon group in particular of alkane, alkene, aryl or arylene, while usually Si represents a silicon atom, and O represents an oxygen atom, n representing an integer generally greater than 1, for example between 3 and 20, such as equal to 8. More advantageously further, said organosilicon material is a silsesquioxane polymer. Said organosilicon material is preferably an organosilicon material.

Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, said organosilicon material is polymethylsilsesquioxane. In other words, in this embodiment, said waxy matrix 3 comprises polymethylsilsesquioxane, and preferably is mainly formed by the latter, or even almost completely or totally formed by the latter. Polymethylsilsesquioxane is thus, advantageously, a type of organosilicon material which is particularly effective when it is used as a waxy matrix 3, alone or optionally in admixture with another waxy material such as another organosilicon material or one of the waxy materials described above (natural wax, resin, etc.). For example, the waxy matrix 3 also comprises, mainly (by weight) or not, cyclopentasiloxane, at least one alkyl (C30 to C45) -methicone and / or esters hydrogenated such as the hydrogenated esters of vegetable oils, for example a hydrogenated ester of olive oil of INCI name “Hydrogenated olive oil stearyl esters”. Obviously, said waxy matrix 3 can optionally be formed from a mixture of several substances, in particular from those mentioned above, the polymethylsilsesquioxane advantageously remaining in the majority by weight. Preferably, said waxy matrix 3 is substantially solid at room temperature, and in particular below 30 ° C, preferably below 45 ° C, more preferably below 55 ° C, more preferably still below 65 ° C. Conversely, said waxy matrix 3 is advantageously substantially fluid at a temperature above ambient temperature, and for example a temperature equal to or greater than 30 ° C, preferably 45 ° C, more preferably 55 ° C, and even more preferably 65 ° C. Thus, advantageously, said waxy matrix 3 has a melting point and / or a softening point of between 30 and 150 ° C inclusive, more preferably between 45 and 130 ° C inclusive, more preferably still between 55 and 130 ° C. included. In certain embodiments of the invention, said waxy matrix 3 has a melting point and / or a softening point of between 55 and 150 ° C inclusive, for example between 55 and 95 ° C inclusive or between 95 and 150 ° C included. Said waxy matrix 3 has for example a density of approximately between 0.80 and 1.5, preferably between 0.9 and 1.3, for example of 1.24 approximately in the case where the waxy matrix 3 is mainly, or even totally formed of polymethylsilsesquioxane. For example, in particular when said waxy matrix 3 is mainly, or even totally, formed of polymethylsilsesquioxane, its softening point is advantageously between 55 and 150 ° C, or even between 75 and 90 ° C. Said waxy matrix 3 is preferably formed by a material having general physical characteristics similar or equivalent to those of waxes, and in particular a material which fluidizes significantly above a certain temperature, that is to say a material that loses its strength or changes from a very high viscosity to a much lower viscosity when heated to a certain temperature or above. For example, said waxy matrix 3 is formed by a substantially hot-melt and / or thermoplastic material, and significantly softens and / or melts when heated to or above a certain temperature, for example 65 ° C. . Said waxy matrix 3 is therefore preferably solid at temperature ambient and preferably becomes substantially fluid when it is brought to a certain temperature above ambient temperature, in particular above its melting and / or softening point. The waxy matrix 3 can advantageously be formed, at ambient temperature, of solid granules which are distinct from each other, that is to say which are difficult to compact or which cannot be compacted by mechanical pressure.

According to the invention, said compound 1 is solid at room temperature and intended to be dispersed by fluidization and / or solubilization within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to integrate said functional agent therein. Advantageously, compound 1 has, at room temperature or even below 30 ° C or even below 45 ° C for example, a relatively firm, non-flaccid consistency, that is to say a minimum mechanical strength, the clearly differentiating from a fluid and in particular from a liquid. For example, said compound 1 is in the form of granules, for example pellets or rods 4, obtained by extrusion, as illustrated in FIGS. 1 and 3. Said compound 1 is preferably intended to be integrated or incorporated within d. a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in the course of formulation (that is to say of manufacture). In other words, compound 1 is advantageously intended to be mixed, preferably in a homogeneous manner, with components which are acceptable from a cosmetic and / or dermatological point of view, to form a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Advantageously, the incorporation of compound 1 within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition is, as will be seen in more detail below with the process, carried out by one and / or the other of the actions following: with the aid of a fluidization, obtained by heating, of said compound 1, that is to say a loss of the solid character of said compound 1, generally via softening or melting (at least partially, since the particles solids advantageously do not fluidify) of the latter and / or of the waxy matrix 3. The mixture provided for the fluidized (“hot”) compound 1 with components which are acceptable from a cosmetic and / or dermatological point of view to form a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition can be facilitated because said other components are advantageously also mainly in fluid form (“hot” themselves or not). with the aid of a solubilization of said compound 1 by one or more of the other components of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, these other components preferably being mainly in fluid form, at least one of these components being capable of solubilize said compound 1, in particular even when the latter is “cold” (that is to say at room temperature, in particular around 20 ° C or below 30 ° C), said component 1 being able of course of course possibly be “hot” (in this case, we will rather speak of mixing by fluidization as described above, a combination of fluidization and solubilization obviously being possible). According to a nonlimiting exemplary embodiment given solely by way of illustration, compound 1 comprises a waxy matrix 3 formed mainly from a silicone wax, which is easily dissolved by components which are acceptable from a cosmetic and / or dermatological point of view, in particular. of oil type, said compound 1 then also being advantageously easily soluble in said components which are acceptable from a cosmetic and / or dermatological point of view to form a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

Advantageously, said waxy matrix 3 is designed to be able to be solubilized at room temperature, that is to say advantageously at a temperature below 30 ° C, more advantageously below 25 ° C (and optionally above 15 ° C). ), for example about 20 ° C (+/- 2 ° C), in a fatty phase (that is to say an oil phase) of said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Said organosilicon material is thus advantageously easily dissolved at room temperature in a fatty phase of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Said compound 1 (therefore integrating said waxy matrix 3) can advantageously be solubilized at ambient temperature, that is to say preferably at a temperature below 30 ° C, more advantageously below 25 ° C (and optionally above 15 ° C). ° C), for example approximately 20 ° C (+/- 2 ° C), in a fatty phase (that is to say an oil phase) of said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Such a configuration makes it possible to dissolve "cold", that is to say at room temperature (in practice generally between 18 and 25 ° C approximately), compound 1 in different types of oil which can be integrated into a composition. cosmetic and / or dermatological. This advantageously makes it possible to avoid, in order to disperse the compound 1 within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to integrate said functional agent therein, having to heat compound 1 and / or the fatty phase (oil) of the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, such heating being not only a consumer of energy (and therefore involving an additional cost), but also potentially a source of degradation of one or more of the components of the oil phase of the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

Said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition may be intended directly for a user, or form an intermediate product itself intended to integrate a cosmetic and / or dermatological product itself final, intended for a user, or an intermediate.

Said compound 1, advantageously resulting from the mixture of the functional agent, that is to say of the particles 2, and of the waxy matrix 3 of organosilicon nature (such as polymethylsilsesquioxane in particular), preferably has no character powdery, but a cohesive and easily "redispersible" character within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition being formulated in fluid form. When cold, that is to say at room temperature, compound 1 therefore advantageously constitutes a solid dispersion, in the manner of a set of solid particles 2 dispersed within the waxy matrix 3 which is also solid when cold. Preferably, such a configuration makes it possible in particular to overcome the constraints linked to the often naturally pulverulent nature of said solid particles 2 alone. Thus, preferably, compound 1 is appreciably easier to manage, that is to say to store, transport and handle, than said particles 2 alone, in particular because the compound 1 is for example at temperature. ambient, in the form of small solids (for example granules of the pellet or rod type 4), coherent, relatively inert, and easily handled, while said particles 2, when alone, on the contrary often have an extremely fractionated character , powdery, with high reactivity and high dispersibility in air. Compound 1 is advantageously formed, at room temperature, of solids which are distinct from one another, preferably of reduced size, such as granules, for example sticks of pellets 4, said distinct solids preferably being difficult or not compactable by mechanical pressure. So, said compound 1 is easy to store and easily transportable, in the form of said separate (small) solids packed in bulk in containers, for example bags, of several kilograms or several tens of kilograms (at least), without said separate solids not being become integral with each other, for example by agglomeration, by coalescence, by crushing, or by sedimentation. In other words, said compound 1 is preferably easy to store and transport in the form of said solids distinct from each other, and which remain distinct from each other during transport and / or storage, even when (s ) is / are carried out using containers of the bag type each weighing, with their contents (formed by said separate solids), several kilograms or tens of kilograms. The separate solids, formed of compound 1, preferably remain easy to handle even after having been stored and / or transported within said containers, and this thanks to the absence of joining of said separate solids even when they are packed in bulk, said solids distinct retaining their respective unitary character in spite of crowding. Obviously, the transport described above is preferably carried out at room temperature or a temperature slightly warmer than room temperature, but which advantageously remains below the melting and / or softening point of said waxy matrix 3. Thus , compound 1 is not only practical to transport and store, but also to quantify when it has to be dispersed within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, said distinct solids, and in particular granules (for example lozenges or sticks 4). This makes it possible in particular to easily quantify the quantity of functional agent to be obtained in the final cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, which implies excellent repeatability as regards the formulation of the latter by virtue of the compound 1.

Advantageously, said solid particles 2 have undergone a surface treatment resulting in a decrease in the absorption capacity of waxy matrix 3 by said solid particles 2 treated, compared to solid particles of the same nature that are untreated. In other words, said solid particles 2, which form the functional agent of compound 1, have advantageously undergone a surface treatment making it possible to “saturate” them more quickly with a waxy matrix 3, that is to say to 'using a smaller amount of waxy matrix 3 compared to an amount of solid particles 2 considered. Through example, the absorption limit (or “saturation”) of waxy matrix 3 by a quantity of solid particles 2 (treated or not) is tested as follows: a quantity (more than necessary) of waxy matrix 2 (preferably formed by an organosilicon material and in particular polymethylsilsesquioxane) is heated to be fluidized, for example heated to 65 °, and is added dropwise to a considered quantity of solid particles 2 (treated or not), which are preferably subjected at the same time to a mixing or triturating action; the mixture of solid particles 2 / drops of waxy matrix 3 mixed or triturated will first form an extremely viscous or even solid or almost solid paste, in the manner of modeling clay for example, then will, with the addition of 'an additional drop of waxy matrix 3, see its viscosity drop significantly and / or change from a solid or quasi-solid state to a fluid or quasi-fluid state (liquid or softened in particular). Said surface treatment therefore advantageously makes it possible to reduce the quantity of fluidized waxy matrix 3 to be added to a considered quantity of solid particles 2 so that their mixture loses its consistency, that is to say passes from a very viscous, solid state. or near-solid, in a significantly less viscous, fluid or near-fluid state. The surface treatments making it possible to bring about a reduction in the absorption capacity of the waxy matrix are known as such and are available according to many alternatives, the invention obviously not being limited to a particular treatment. By way of nonlimiting example, the surface treatment of the solid particles 2 implemented in the context of the invention may be based on a treatment based on amino acids, for example N-acylamino acids such as acid N-acyl-L-glutamic, and be advantageously in accordance with the teaching of US Pat. No. 4,606,914. For example, the surface treatment is based on a treatment based on amino acids in the form of metal salts of N-acylamino acid, such as a salt made from sodium myristoyl glutamate and hydroxide d 'aluminum. Obviously, other surface treatments in accordance with the invention can be envisaged, and the surface treatment can for example be based on: a treatment implementing disodium stearoyl glutamate, as well as advantageously aluminum dimyristate and triethoxycaprylylsilane; a treatment using an alkoxysilane such as triethoxycaprylylsilane; a treatment in accordance with the teaching of US Pat. No. 6482441, a treatment using a silicone polymer such as dimethicone, a treatment using a fatty acid, a treatment implementing one or more phospholipids, a treatment using a hydrogenated olive oil ester, etc. Said solid particles 2 having undergone a surface treatment are for example formed of crude pigments (preferably more than 90% by weight), sodium myristoyl glutamate (preferably less than 10% by weight) and a hydroxide of aluminum (preferably less than 10% by weight), according to a purely illustrative and non-limiting example. The surface treatment making it possible to bring about a reduction in the absorption capacity of the waxy matrix can also be formed by a combination of the various treatments listed above. The surface treatments making it possible to bring about a reduction in the absorption capacity of the waxy matrix also advantageously make it possible to increase the hydrophobic character of the solid particles 2 treated, and / or to improve their dispersibility in the oil phase, compared with solid particles of the same nature untreated. Advantageously, said functional agent forms (strictly) more than 50%, preferably more than 60%, more preferably at least 70%, more preferably still at least 80%, still more preferably at least 85% or even at least 90 %, by weight, of said compound 1. Thus, preferably, at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, or even at least 85%, by weight, of said compound 1, is formed by said solid particles 2. Such a high mass proportion of functional agent (and therefore of particles 2) is advantageously made possible by virtue of said surface treatment. As a corollary, said waxy matrix preferably forms between 5 and 25%, preferably between 7 and 22%, more preferably between 15 and 20%, by weight, of compound 1. In summary, advantageously, thanks to the surface treatment, a relatively small amount of waxy matrix 3 is sufficient to serve as a support for a relatively large amount of solid particles 2.

Preferably, the compound 1, when it is fluidized and / or solubilized, and by extension the functional agent which it contains (and more precisely said solid particles 2), can be dispersed or mixed ( s) in a homogeneous and stable manner within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. In summary, thanks to the general principle of the invention, and in particular to the surface treatment, it is possible, advantageously, not only to obtain a compound 1 which can be easily handled comprising a high quantity of functional agent (at least 50% even at least 80 or even 85% by weight) and a low quantity of waxy matrix 3, but also to achieve, in the long term, an easy dispersion of compound 1 within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition during manufacture in order to integrate said functional agent therein. The waxy matrix 3, and by extension the compound 1, advantageously acts as a support for the functional agent before its redispersion in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. Preferably, the redispersion of compound 1 can be carried out by fluidization and therefore heating of compound 1 until it becomes fluid, to mix it more easily with components which are acceptable from a cosmetic and / or dermatological point of view, themselves fluid. , or by dissolving compound 1, preferably in the form of small solids (granules in particular, for example pellets or rods 4), optionally cold (that is to say without heating), within acceptable components from a cosmetic and / or dermatological point of view also fluid.

In addition, the relatively small or limited amount of waxy matrix 3 within said compound 1, as well as the nature of organosilicon material (such as polymethylsilsesquioxane) thereof, advantageously allows said compound 1 to be able to be integrated into a very wide range of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions. In other words, the design of compound 1 advantageously makes it possible to integrate said functional agent which it contains within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, without constraint or practically without constraint vis-à-vis the others. components of the latter, that is to say without needing to modify these other components forming said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to adapt them to said compound 1. In summary, compound 1 of the invention is advantageously capable of be integrated into a wide variety of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions. Advantageously, the waxy matrix 3, and in particular the organosilicon material which forms it in part or in whole (preferably consisting of polymethylsilsesquioxane), has a high film-forming character, which is particularly advantageous in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions intended to be used on a user's hair. Compound 1 can thus be intended to be dispersed in a composition cosmetic and / or dermatological not only to integrate the functional agent therein but also to integrate therein a character specific to the waxy matrix 3, for example the film-forming character of the waxy matrix 3 mentioned above, in particular when the organosilicon material which forms it in part or in whole is polymethylsilsesquioxane.

Preferably, said waxy matrix 3 is liposoluble and / or insoluble or almost insoluble in water. Thus, the waxy matrix 3, which advantageously has physical characteristics close to or similar to those of natural or synthetic waxes (and in particular silicone waxes), preferably has a lipophilic, liposoluble and / or hydrophobic character. The waxy matrix 3 is dissolved in particular in the oil phases commonly used in the manufacture of cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions. Advantageously, because of its small relative amount within compound 1, the waxy matrix 3 is intended to relatively easily integrate the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in which the compound is itself intended to be integrated, preferably without significantly modify the physical and / or chemical properties of said composition, and this all the more easily when said composition has a fatty or oil phase (and / or lipophilic) optionally in an emulsion of the water in oil, water in oil, for example of the water-in-silicone type, or alternatively of the oil-in-water type.

Said compound 1 may optionally be intended to be redispersed to form part of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising only one anhydrous phase, preferably of the fatty / oil / silicone type, said composition being for example a balm, a red lip, etc.

Advantageously, said surface treatment also makes it possible to increase the lipophilic and / or hydrophobic character of the solid particles 2 treated, compared to solid particles 2 of the same nature that are untreated. Thus, the surface treatment confers on said solid particles 2 or reinforces in the latter a chemical affinity for fats and fats and the like of which said waxy matrix 3 advantageously forms part. Such a characteristic makes it possible in particular to obtain a better dispersion. solid individuals 2 within said waxy matrix 3 and / or a better dispersion of said compound 1 (and therefore solid particles 2 themselves) within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition (itself comprising in particular a oil phase or the like).

Preferably, said surface treatment involves a grafting of molecules 5 to the respective surface of said particles 2, as illustrated in FIG. 2. More preferably still, said grafted molecules 5 comprise at least silicone chains, carbon chains, natural polymers or synthetic, organic molecules, or oxides of titanium or silicon. Thus, advantageously, said compound 1 comprises in particular said waxy matrix 3 and said treated particles 2, which are provided with and / or comprise said grafted molecules 5. Said treated particles 2 are preferably dispersed regularly within the waxy matrix. 3, at least in part thanks to said grafted molecules 5, the presence of which thus preferentially reinforces the lipophilic and / or hydrophobic character of the particles 2 and / or advantageously decreases their capacity for absorbing the waxy matrix 3.

Advantageously, said functional agent and said waxy matrix 3 together form at least 95%, preferably at least 97%, more preferably at least 99%, by weight, more preferably still all, of said compound 1. Indeed, that either to produce said compound 1 or to disperse the latter within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, it is advantageously not necessary to integrate into the latter a component other than said waxy matrix 3 and said functional agent, although it may still be possible. Thus, preferably, compound 1 does not comprise a surfactant, that is to say that it does not in particular comprise any substance whose primary function is to lower the surface tension, or else that compound 1 comprises a such substance but in a non-useful quantity, negligible by weight relative to the waxy matrix 3 and / or to the functional agent.

The invention also relates as such, according to a second aspect partly illustrated by an exemplary embodiment in FIG. 3, a process for the manufacture of a compound 1, which is preferably compound 1 as described above (and below). Thus, the process of the invention makes it possible to manufacture a compound 1 comprising at least 50% by weight of a functional agent, preferably as mentioned above, said compound 1 optionally comprising (strictly) more than 50%, of preferably (strictly) more than 60%, more preferably at least 70%, by weight, more preferably still at least 80%, by weight or even at least 85%, by weight of said functional agent. The above description relating to compound 1 therefore also applies advantageously to the manufacturing process according to the invention (and conversely, the following description relating to the manufacturing process therefore also applies to compound 1 according to the invention).

According to the invention, the manufacturing process comprises at least one step of heating Ç a waxy matrix 3 comprising at least one organosilicon (or organosilicon) material in order to obtain a fluid matrix 3. Said organosilicon material forms the major part in weight, preferably all, of said waxy matrix 3. In other words, the organosilicon material forms at least 50% by weight, advantageously at least 75% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, even more preferably substantially 100% by weight of said waxy matrix 3. Said waxy matrix 3 is preferably that already mentioned above, while said organosilicon material is also preferably as mentioned above, and is in particular polymethylsilsesquioxane. In other words, during said heating step Ç, said waxy matrix 3 is heated, for example using at least one resistance or by convection, until it is fluidized, that is to say molten or sufficiently softened to no longer have the consistency of a solid, thus forming a fluid waxy matrix 3. During said heating step, said waxy matrix 3 is advantageously heated to a temperature equal to or greater than its melting point and / or softening. Thus, during the heating step, said waxy matrix 3 is for example heated to a temperature between 30 and 150 ° C inclusive, more preferably between 45 and 130 ° C inclusive, in order to be fluidized, or even at a temperature between 55 and 95 ° C inclusive or between 55 and 150 ° C inclusive. Preferably, said cold waxy matrix 3 is thus substantially solid, while when hot, above a certain temperature, it is substantially fluid. Preferably, the expression “fluid matrix” therefore designates the waxy matrix 3 heated until fluidization.

Still according to the invention, the method further comprises a step of dispersing D said functional agent, formed of solid particles 2, within said fluid matrix 3. Said step of dispersing D advantageously comprises at least one step M of mixing said particles. 2 treated and said waxy matrix 3, the latter possibly being cold, in solid form, or hot, in fluidized form. Said solid particles 2 are preferably as mentioned above.

Preferably, the method also comprises a treatment step T (not shown) of said solid particles 2 during which the latter undergo a surface treatment resulting in a decrease in the absorption capacity of the fluid matrix 3 by the solid particles 2 treated, compared to solid particles of the same untreated nature, said treated solid particles 2 forming said functional agent. In particular, said treatment step T advantageously involves, as explained above, a grafting of molecules 5 to the respective surface of said particles 2 and / or an increase in the lipophilic and / or hydrophobic character of the solid particles 2 treated, compared with solid particles of the same nature untreated.

According to the invention, said compound 1 is solid at room temperature and intended to be dispersed by fluidization and / or solubilization within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to integrate said functional agent therein, advantageously as described above.

Advantageously, the method further comprises a step B of grinding said solid particles 2 aimed at reducing their average size. For example, at the end of said grinding step B, said solid particles 2 have an average size substantially between 10 nm and 500 μm, preferably between 100 nm and 100 μm. Preferably, as illustrated in FIG. 3, said dispersion phase D comprises at least part of said grinding step B, so that during at least part of the latter, said fluid matrix 3 is mixed with said particles 2.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, as illustrated in FIG. 3, the method further comprises a step of extruding said compound 1 so that the latter is in the form of granules, for example pellets or rods 4. Advantageously, the extrusion step E is carried out hot, said compound 1 exhibiting during this step a temperature of between 60 and 80 ° C.

Advantageously, the process also comprises, after the dispersion step D, a cooling step F during which said compound 1 cools to room temperature so as to form a solid.

According to an exemplary embodiment given by way of illustration and without limitation, illustrated in FIG. 3, the method successively involves: said mixing step M, during which the solid particles 2 treated and the waxy matrix 3 are mixed cold, the matrix 3 being solid, cold (room temperature), in the form of solid pellets, while the particles 2 are in coarse form, with too large a particle size and therefore unacceptable, then said heating step C, during which the waxy matrix 3 is heated and therefore fluidized, at the same time as the particles 2, which remain solid, then said grinding step B, during which the particles 2 are ground to an acceptable particle size, while being / remaining intimately mixed with the fluid matrix 3 which itself also undergoes, in a way, grinding, then a homogenization step H, during which the mixture formed by the crushed particles 2 and the matrix fl uide 3 is homogenized by any suitable means (agitation, blowing, shearing, etc.), then said extrusion step E, during which the hot mixture is compressed in order to pass through a die 6 to obtain a long product in the shape of a cylinder, then said cooling step F, during which the long product is gradually cooled, then a cutting step S, during which the long product is cut, separated into several solids distinct from each other, preferably of the granule type, for example pellets or rods 4, said dispersing step D here comprising the steps of mixing M, heating C, grinding B and homogenization H.

The method, in particular according to this exemplary embodiment, advantageously involves the use of a heating twin-screw extruder 7, within which the steps described above are carried out.

The invention also relates as such, according to a third aspect, to a method of manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, comprising a redispersion step R during which a compound 1, as described above is added to then mixed with one or more components acceptable in cosmetics and / or dermatology. The foregoing description concerning compound 1 and the process for manufacturing a compound 1 advantageously also applies to the process for manufacturing a composition according to the invention.

According to a first variant, said step of redispersion R further comprises a step of dissolving said compound 1 by one or more of said components which are acceptable in cosmetics and / or dermatology. Advantageously, said solubilization step comprises at least the solubilization (that is to say in particular the dispersion) of compound 1 within a fatty phase (in particular oil) or of a portion of said fatty phase of said cosmetic and / or dermatological composition.

According to a second variant, compatible with the first described above, said redispersion step R further comprises a fluidization step, in which said added compound 1 is heated at least until fluidization, for example at a temperature above 50 ° C, which can be between 55 and 85 ° C. Said redispersion step R can also comprising said solubilization step and said fluidization step, for example one after the other or according to another example concomitantly.

Preferably, for the redispersion step R and in particular for the solubilization step and / or for the fluidization step, one or more of said components which are acceptable in cosmetics and / or in dermatology are substantially fluid at room temperature, facilitating the preparation. redispersion of said compound 1, whether via its solubilization and / or via its fluidization.

The fact that the waxy matrix 3 of compound 1 of the invention is mainly or even totally formed (by weight) of said organosilicon material makes it possible in particular to obtain excellent dispersibility of compound 1 within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. , and more precisely within a fatty phase (oil) of such a composition. Thus, the waxy matrix 3 of compound 1, the invention allows in particular the solid particles 2 of compound 1 to be (re) dispersed effectively, without particular difficulty, or even without heating, that is to say at room temperature, with other components to form a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, and in particular to color it when said solid particles 2 are pigments.

Said solubilization step is thus, according to a particular embodiment, carried out (in particular within said fatty phase) at a temperature below 30 ° C, preferably below 25 ° C (and optionally above 15 ° C) , for example about 20 ° C (+/- 2 ° C). In this last particular embodiment, said redispersion step R therefore advantageously does not include heating of compound 1, and preferably no heating either of the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, and in particular of the fatty phase ( oil) of the latter. Said solubilization step can therefore advantageously be carried out "cold", that is to say at room temperature (in practice generally between 18 and 25 ° C approximately), thus saving energy and avoiding potential degradation due to the heat of one or more of the components of the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, and in particular of the fatty phase of the latter. Said redispersion step R then does not include the step of fluidization by heating of compound 1, thanks to the properties of the organosilicon material chosen to form the waxy matrix 3, in particular polymethylsiisesquioxane.

In order to demonstrate the excellent “redispersible” character of compound 1, and therefore of the solid particles 2 which it contains, various examples of compounds 1, designated C1 to C3, in accordance with the invention, that is to say ie each comprising a respective functional agent formed of respective solid particles 2 and dispersed in a waxy matrix 3 formed of organosilicon material, have been made, by way of illustration and not limitation only. Examples of control compounds C4 to C6 were also produced, in the same manner, respectively, as the examples of compounds C1 to C3 according to the invention, except for the fact that the respective waxy matrix of each example of compounds Controls C4 to C6 is not formed from an organosilicon material, but for example from an olive oil ester wax, which is a non-organosilicon material. The organosilicon material of the waxy matrices 3 of the examples of compounds C1 to C3 is in particular polymethylsiisesquioxane. Compounds C1 to C6 were produced according to Table 1, and therefore each result from a mixture of respective solid particles (here pigments) and respective waxy matrix.

The examples of compounds C1 to C6 are all in the form of solid granules at room temperature (approximately 20 to 25 ° C.).

Table 1

The solid particles 2 of the compounds C1 to C6 are in these non-limiting examples treated pigments, that is to say which solid particles 2 (of pigment type) having undergone a surface treatment resulting in a decrease in the absorption capacity of waxy matrix. The respective trade names (at the filing date of the present patent application) of these treated pigments are given in Table 1. These treated pigments are marketed under their respective trade names in particular by the company Miyoshi.

The surface treatment of the pigments (which are solid particles) of the examples of compounds C1 to C6 can for example be carried out here with a treatment based on amino acids, preferably in accordance with the teaching of US Pat. No. 4,606,914, amino acids in particular in the form of metal salts of N-acylamino acid. Thus, said surface treatment consists for example in coating solid particles (and in particular pigments) raw, that is to say untreated, with, by weight of raw solid particles, 0.5 to 10% of one or more metal salts of N-acylamino acid (s). The N-acylamino acid is for example an N-acyl-L-glutamic acid, while the metal is for example aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zinc or even titanium. The metal salt of N-acylamino acid is for example made using sodium myristoyl glutamate and aluminum hydroxide. Such a surface treatment can in particular be used for the examples presented here, by way of illustration and without limitation, as well as in the rest of the description above and below. Said surface treatment, in particular said treatment with the aid of metal salts of N-acylamino acid, preferably increases the hydrophobic character and the dispersibility in oil of the solid particles 2 treated relative to the raw solid particles (untreated ).

The examples of compounds C1 to C3 were prepared according to the manufacturing process of compound 1 of the invention, while the examples of compounds C4 to C6 were prepared according to an equivalent manufacturing process, except that the C4 to C6 manufacturing process comprises the use of a non-organosilicon material (olive oil ester wax in particular) in place of the organosilicon material (polymethylsilsesquioxane here).

The dispersibility of the examples of compounds C1 to C3 in accordance with the invention was then compared with that of the examples of compounds C4 to C6 not in accordance with the invention, by dispersing each of the examples of compounds C1 to C6 within a body respective liquid fat, always of the same nature and in the same proportions, the liquid fatty substance being chosen from the following components: linear silicone oil of dimethicone type, cyclic silicone oil of cyclopentasiloxane type, and branched silicone oil of methyl trimethicone type. The ratio (by weight) of the example compound (C1 to C6) and the fat is 1: 9. The dispersion (solubilization in this case) of the examples of compounds C1 to C6 was carried out with homogenization at 6000 rpm, for 5 to 15 min, at room temperature (between 20 and 25 ° C. approximately).

The dispersion of each example of compound C1 to C6 within their respective liquid fatty substances makes it possible to obtain respective mixtures M1 to M6 (Mx therefore corresponds to the solubilization of the example of compound Cx in a respective liquid fatty substance, with x between 1 and 6). The dispersibility of the examples of compounds C1 to C3 (with matrix of organosilicon material) and of the examples of compounds C4 to C6 (with matrix of non-organosilicon material) was compared by observing the mixtures C1 to C6:

visually, thanks to the possible presence of non-dispersed solid pieces, and under an optical microscope, by appreciating the fineness of the dispersion.

It follows from the observations made that the examples of compounds C1 to C3, and in particular their pigments (solid particles 2 of functional agent), are dispersed very homogeneously within respectively mixtures M1 to M3, while the examples of compounds C4 to C6, and in particular their solid particles (pigments here), are dispersed very heterogeneously within mixtures M4 to M6 respectively, because these examples of compounds C4 to C6 form agglomerates within mixtures M4 to M6, which are not found with the examples of compounds C1 to C3 within mixtures M1 to M3. In other words, during mixing in a liquid fatty substance, and in particular in the fatty phase of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, the dispersibility of the examples of solid compounds 1 C1 to C3 comprising the waxy matrix 3 containing organosilicon material is complete (excellent solubilization) regardless of the type of pigments (solid particles 2) used, while the examples of solid C4 to C6 compounds with a non-organosilicon waxy matrix only dissolve incompletely (at room temperature here), their pigments forming unwanted lumps and agglomerates. POSSIBILITY OF INDUSTRIAL APPLICATION

The invention thus makes it possible to obtain a compound 1 comprising a high content of functional agent and facilitating the transport, storage and handling of the latter.

Claims

1. Compound (1) comprising at least 50% by weight of a functional agent, characterized in that it also comprises a waxy matrix (3), comprising at least one organosilicon material, said organosilicon material forming the major part by weight , preferably all of said waxy matrix (3), within which said functional agent, formed of solid particles (2), is dispersed, said compound (1) being solid at room temperature and intended to be dispersed by fluidization and / or solubilization in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to integrate said functional agent therein.

2. A solid compound (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said solid particles (2) have undergone a surface treatment resulting in a decrease in the absorption capacity of the waxy matrix (3) by said solid particles (2) treated, compared to untreated solid particles of the same nature

3. A solid compound (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said surface treatment also makes it possible to increase the lipophilic and / or hydrophobic nature of the solid particles (2) treated, compared to solid particles of the same untreated nature. .

4. Solid compound (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said surface treatment involves a grafting of molecules (5) to the respective surface of said particles (2).

5. Compound (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said grafted molecules (5) comprise at least silicone chains, carbon chains, natural or synthetic polymers, organic molecules, or oxides of titanium or silicon. .

6. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said organosilicon material is polymethylsilsesquioxane.

7. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said solid particles (2) have an average size between 10 nm and 500 µm, preferably between 100 nm and 100 µm.

8. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said solid particles (2) comprise at least organic and / or inorganic pigments, organic and / or inorganic fillers, composite materials and / or biocomposites , or a mixture of these.

9. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said functional agent is intended to form a physical sunscreen.

10. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said waxy matrix (3) is liposoluble and / or insoluble or almost insoluble in water.

11. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said waxy matrix (3) is substantially solid at room temperature.

12. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said waxy matrix (3) has a melting point and / or a softening point of between 30 and 150 ° C inclusive, more preferably between 45 and 130 ° C included.

13. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of granules, for example pellets or sticks (4), obtained by extrusion.

14. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said functional agent forms at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, by weight, of said compound (1).

15. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said functional agent and said waxy matrix (3) together form at least 95% of preferably at least 97%, more preferably at least 99%, by weight, more preferably still all, of said compound (1).

16. Compound (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not comprise a surfactant.

17. A method of manufacturing a compound (1) comprising at least 50% by weight of a functional agent, characterized in that it comprises at least:

a heating step (C) of a waxy matrix (3) comprising at least one organosilicon material in order to obtain a fluid matrix (3), said organosilicon material forming the major part by weight, preferably all, of said matrix waxing machine (3),

a step of dispersing (D) said functional agent, formed of solid particles (2), within said fluid matrix (3),

said compound (1) being solid at room temperature and intended to be dispersed by fluidization and / or solubilization within a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition in order to integrate said functional agent therein.

18. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it also comprises a treatment step (T) of said solid particles (2) during which the latter undergo a surface treatment resulting in a decrease in the absorption capacity of fluid matrix (3) by the solid particles (2) treated, compared to solid particles (2) of the same nature untreated.

19. The method of claim 17 or 18, characterized in that during said heating step (C), said waxy matrix (3) is heated to a temperature equal to or greater than its melting and / or softening point.

20. Method according to one of claims 17 to 19, characterized in that it further comprises a step of grinding (B) of said solid particles (2) aimed at reducing their average size.

21. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that at the end of said grinding step (B), said solid particles (2) have an average size substantially between 10 nm and 500 pm, preferably between 100 nm and 100. pm.

22. The method of claim 20 or 21, characterized in that said dispersion phase comprises at least part of said grinding step (B), so that during at least part of the latter, said fluid matrix (3) is found in admixture with said particles (2).

23. Method according to one of claims 17 to 22, characterized in that it comprises a step of extruding (E) of said compound (1) so that the latter is in the form of granules, for example pellets. or sticks (4).

24. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the extrusion step (E) is carried out hot, said compound (1) exhibiting during this step a temperature of between 60 and 80 ° C.

25. Method according to one of claims 17 to 24, characterized in that it comprises, after the dispersing step (D), a cooling step (F) during which said compound (1) cools down to at room temperature so as to form a solid.

26. A method of manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising a redispersion step (R) during which a compound (1) according to any one of claims 1 to 16 is added to and then mixed with one or more other components acceptable in cosmetics and / or dermatology.

27. A method of manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said redispersion step (R) further comprises a step of solubilizing said compound (1) with one or more of said other acceptable components. in cosmetics and / or dermatology.

28. A method of manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said solubilization step is carried out at a temperature below 30 ° C, preferably below 25 ° C.

29. A method of manufacturing a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition according to claim 26 or 27, characterized in that said redispersion step (R) further comprises a fluidization step, in which said added compound (1) is heated. at least until fluidization.