FR2802421A1 - Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion creams containing aqueous placenta extract for the treatment of heat-sensitive skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic cream for sensitive skins containing aqueous placenta extract is new. The cream is formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, the aqueous phase being 60 - 80% by weight of water, and the oily phase comprises 0.1 - 10%Myritol 318 (RTM; a caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride), 0.3 - 3% Eumulgin B1 (RTM; cetenyl-stearyl alcohol with about 12 moles ethylene oxide), and 1.5 - 15% Cutina-CP (RTM; mainly cetyl palmitate). The active materials are 0.1 - 1% aqueous placenta extract - EPA40, 0.1 - 1% sapogenins, 0.3 - 3% stereoidic sapogenins, and 0.5 - 5% Herbasol - Extract Arnica (RTM; an anti-hemostatic agent). In addition the compositions contain 0.3 - 3% Italian lemon essence, 0.1 - 0.5% Deo-Usnate (RTM; a plant-based fungistat and bacteriostat), 0.1 - 0.5% dodecyl gallate antioxidant, and 2.6% - 26% Orange Soleil W200. The cream is prepared by mixing Myritol 318, Cutina-CP, and Eumulgin B1 at 80 deg C for 45 minutes and adding this slowly to the aqueous phase at 80 - 90 deg C. The mixture is stirred whilst the temperature falls to 40 - 45 deg C. The perfume and color are added over 5 - 10 minutes, the pH being maintained at 7 +/- 0.5.

Description

 The present invention relates to a moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging cosmetic cream and its method of manufacture for the care of the face and hands, intended for persons sensitive to heat sources by infrared radiation. All components of this cream are patented components.

 The surface qualities which are concerned by this cream are: dry and mature skins (the skin does not shine), having the gravelly aspect (crater); skin irritated by infrared (reddish skin); old skin (wrinkles).

the functions of the active ingredients make this cream, a moisturizing and protective cream providing suppleness to the skin; anti-aging cream by improving micro-circulation; protective anti-inflammatory cream of heat sources of infrared origins.

The persons concerned are persons with the skin of the face and hands and other parts of the body (the arms) exposed to medium and high temperature heat sources (baking oven, blast furnaces, heaters, laundry by hand in hot water, medical staff with skin very sensitive to disinfectant, etc ...).

 The innovation in this cream lies in the active ingredients used and gathered together in three - A tonic of hyaluronic acid, a tonic of collagen, a tonic of A D 1V. Fruit acids, vitamin A acid, vitamins C and E, carotenoids and selenium.

Heat is synonymous with dehydration. If the source of heat is of an infra - red origin, there is vasodilatation, resulting in excessive blood supply and may cause erythema (redness of the skin). This corresponds to a first degree burn.

The method of treating such skin cases and the use of a vasoconstrictor (astringent) and the use of the fruit acid of which the plant acids which cause the. desquamation and removal of dead cells on the superficial layer of the epidermis. They increase cell turnover, so the thickness of the epidermis. They also have a moisturizing effect and regenerate the elastin and strengthen the collagen.

All percentages are based on total weight.

The aqueous phase for the emulsion is distilled water whose qsp varies from <B> 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight and whose concentration is 52%. weight, which gives a mass of water greater than A.

The fatty phase characterized by three fatty acids a, b, c, makes it a fatty phase of particularly excellent quality a) M1ERffOL 0 31 $ which is a triglyceride composition of caprylic acid l capnque, is a neutral, clear, odorless oil , almost colorless and of low viscosity. MERITOL <B> 318 </ B> is a triglyceride of saturated vegetable fatty acids of first choice which is particularly suitable for oily bodies of this type. Due to its chemical composition and neutral character, it is a very dermatophilic oily component. Its density varies from 0.945 to 949 g / cm3 at 20 ° C.

b) EUMULGIN BI which is a stearyl cetylenic alcohol with about 12 moles of EG. Its properties make it a non-ionic emulsifier for very finely dispersed emulsions. It is especially suitable for substances which are difficult to emulsify or which are not suitable for emulsification.

Its emulsifying power is used in low viscosity and consistent type M cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations which are preferably used for liquid to semi-liquid emulsions. Its density ranges from 0.969 to 0; 972 to <B> 70` C.

c) CUTINA - CP @, which is an ester of fatty alcohols with saturated long chains and of fatty acids, in particular cetyl ester of palmitic acids (cetyl Palmitate). Its density varies from 0.817 to 0.820.

As a consistency factor, CUTINA - CP is suitable for cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations in the form of emulsions such as creams, ointments, oily make - up products and stick - shaped preparations.

The respective concentrations of the active ingredients a, b, c are from about 1% to 10% by weight, from 0.3% to 3% by weight, and from 5% to 15% by weight.

The active ingredient, characterized by three active ingredients A, <B> B, B ', </ B> C, combines the primary qualities, the secondary and tertiary qualities of this cream. A) PLACENTAL EXTRACT ACQUEUX - EPA40 is an active ingredient based on human placentas It undergoes a treatment allowing the initiation and the complete hiberation of the soluble active principles (biostimulins).

 Characterized by its content of easily assimilable physiologically active principles, this active ingredient provides cutaneous cells with the basic elements essential for skin hydration, cell regeneration and tissue rejuvenation.

This product has a clear yellow liquid appearance with a slightly characteristic odor, PI-I 5 to 6. The biological properties of the ACQUEUX-EPA40 PLACENTAL EXTRACT are related to its concentration of active ingredients such as the biotosulins in the sense of Filatov, the synergistic groups of amino acids constituting the α and β3 factoproteins, nucleic acids, mineral salts and trace elements such as Na, K, Mg, Si.

Its application being in many types of cosmetological or pharmaceutical preparations: the products treating skin aging (anti-wrinkles, etc.); skin protection products (after solar _._), products.

 nourishing and moisturizing (presence of hygroscopic amino acids), hair products by stimulating the micro-circulation of the scalp (hair loss). These qualities make it a good anti-inflammatory and a good anti-aging while having a good moisturizing power.

B) Bacteriostatic DRUGS WITH SAPONOSIDES <B> 1 </ B> RI <B> 1 </ B> ERFIENIC (pentacyclic triterpenes). It has antimicrobial and antifungal activity (ivy Henderagenine) and anti-inflammatory activity as well as anti-oedematous activity (Horse chestnut: escine, licorice: glyceriblique acid).

B ') Entering into the category of the second active ingredient is also used SAPOGENINES STEROIDIC which is an anti-inflammatory, a peripheral vasoconstrictor used in phlebology (Small Holly <B>: </ B> Ruscogenic, Diuretic, Asparagus , Sarsaparilla).

C) The use of an anti - ernostatic plant extract in a water glycol solvent, HERBASOL - EXTRACT ARNICA, is an undenatured plant extract, obtained by a special process: The liquid and stable extract, facilitates its use in cosmetics. The cold extraction ensures the conservation of the aromatic properties.

The starting material are Arnica flowers (Flos Arnica). Its use is applied to creams, deodorants, podiatry creams, bath preparations, so-called sports creams, anti-dandruff treatment, toothpaste, mouthwashes. The general use of the plant being in spasmophilia, nervous sedation, cholagogue (polyphenolic acids). Vulnerable in external use. Usable for its properties, Arnica is especially popular as anf-ecchymotic.

 The respective concentrations of the active ingredients A, B, B ', C are from about 0.1% to 1% by weight, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, from 0.3% to 3% by weight. weight and from 0.5% to 5% by weight. .

 The three important criteria of a cream are usually its active ingredients, its color and its smell. The use of adjuvants is therefore necessary for aromatization, preservation and coloring.

Thus the choice of an aromatic herb has been characterized by the use of ITALIAN LEMON ESSENCE, the concentration of which varies from about 0.3% to 3% by weight. It has a liquid, clear and slightly turbid liquid appearance, light yellow to greenish yellow in color, with a density ranging from 0.849 to 0.858 at 20 ° C. ITALIAN LEMON ESSENCE is an essential oil extracted by cold expression of the part. external pericardium of lemon fruit (citnzs limon, L.) grown in Sicily. Its use is used in aromatization, perfumery and cosmetics (external use only), concentrated product for industrial use.

Undenatured plant extract, obtained by a special process, this liquid extract is stable facilitates its use in cosmetics. The cold extraction ensures the conservation of the aromatic properties. The starting product and the Arnica flower (Flos Arnica).

In the drug we can report polyphenols (flavoids, caffeic acid, chlorogenic) and many terpene alcohols.

The general use of the plant is involved in Spasmophilia, as a nervous sedative, cholagogue (polyphenolic acids). Usable for its properties, Arnica is especially popular as an anti-ecchymotic.

The choice as preservative 0 is characterized by a fungistatic - bacteriostatic, DEO - USNATE, the concentration of which ranges from about 0.3% to 0.5%. It is a highly concentrated, non - aqueous plant extract. bactericidal, fungicidal and anti-yeast action from alpine mosses (usnea-barbata). The active ingredient content is standardized to 7.5 L (+) usnates. - It is therefore a 1,2 propylene glycol solvent (USP). Applications of this pure vegetable bactericide are suitable for deodorants, foot care products, mouth hygiene products, creams and special lotions. DUO USNATE can also be used as a preservative component F.

La compatibilité avec la peau est très bonne. Le dosage varie d' environ 0,3 % à environ 0,5 lo du poids total de la masse. Fig. 1: 1,2 propylene glycol (USP) developed formula of usnic acid

The compatibility with the skin is very good. The dosage ranges from about 0.3% to about 0.5% of the total weight of the mass.

The use of an antioxidant in cream, such as DODECYL GALLATE <B> (</ b> Cly H30 Os), the concentration of which ranges from about 0.1% to 0.5%. is characterized by a product of crystalline powder appearance and cream bench color.

The melting point is about 95 - 98 C. Insoluble in water, it is slightly soluble in oils. Its property is that of an antioxidant. Its use concerns cosmetics and pharmacy (creams, milks, ointments, etc.).

a coloring agent has been used for this cream and harmoniously participates in the finishing of it, It is characterized by a SUN ORANGE W 200 <B> (15985) </ B> ID & C YELLOW n 6.

Sa teneur en matière colorante pure est d' environ 70 % et son PH est compris entre 8 et 10. II à une bonne solidité aux acides et reste solide à la lumière. Sa solidité à la lumière est moyenne. La concentration en colorant varie d' environ 2,6 % à environ 26 %. Fig. 2: chemical formula

Its content of pure dyestuff is about 70% and its pH is between 8 and 10. It has good acid fastness and remains solid in the light. Its solidity to light is average. The dye concentration ranges from about 2.6% to about 26%.

the fat phase is prepared by mixing MERITOL 318, EITMULGIN B 1 and CITINA-CP8, at a temperature of 80 ° C. for 45 minutes.

The preparation process is characterized in that the HlE type emulsion is prepared according to the following method. The fatty phase and the aqueous phase previously prepared are heated separately to a temperature ranging between 80 and 90.degree. C., and then after stirring the phase. In the aqueous phase, the fatty phase is slowly incorporated in the aqueous phase. Stirring is continued until a temperature of between 40 and 45 ° C. is reached. The emulsion is then smoothed at a high speed for 3 to 5 minutes. characterized in that the active ingredients, the perfume and the dye are added to the "variant" O / W emulsion for 5 to <B> 10 </ B> minutes, the pH being maintained at 7 t 0.5.

Claims (1)

1) Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising: - An aqueous phase containing distilled water whose qsp varies from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the weight total and whose concentration is 52% by weight, giving a mass of water greater than 1%. - A fat phase - containing MERITOL 318, EUMULGIN B1 <B> @ </ B> and CUTINA - CP, whose respective concentrations are approximately 0.1 to 10 lo by weight, of 0 From 3% to 3% by weight, from 1.5% to 15% by weight. - selected active ingredients including a) an ACQUEOUS PLACENTAL EXTRACT - EPA40, b) SAPOGENINS and SAPOGENINS STEROIDIC, c) HERBASOL - EXTRACT ARNICAS, whose respective concentrations are approximately 0.1% to 1% by weight, 0.1% to 1% by weight, 0.3% to 3% by weight and 0.5% to 5% by weight. A flavoring agent such as LEMON GASOLINE ITALY, the concentration of which varies from approximately 0.1% to 1% by weight. - A bactericide and fungicide such as the natural herbal DEO-USNATEe, whose concentration varies from about 0.1% to 0.5 70. - An antioxidant such as DODECYLE GALLATE (C-13 H3O Bone) The concentration of the dye varies from about 0.1% to 0.5% by weight. An Orange Sun W200 dye has a concentration ranging from about 2.6 to 26% by weight. 2) Process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the fatty phase is prepared by mixing - MERITOL 318, CUTINA - CP @ and EUMULGIN BI @, under heat at a temperature. 80 C for 45 minutes. 3) A method of preparation according to claim 2, characterized in that 1 emulsion lVE type is prepared according to the following method - The fatty phase and the aqueous phase prepared beforehand are carried separately at a temperature ranging between 80 and 90 C, then after stirring of the aqueous phase, the fatty phase is slowly incorporated. - The stirring is continued until a temperature between 40 and 45 C, then the emulsion is smoothed at high speed for 3 to 5 minutes. 4) A method of preparation according to one of claims-2 or 3, characterized in that the active ingredients, the perfume and the dye are added to the emulsion of type HIE by "variant" agitation for 5 to <B> 10 </ B> minutes; the pH being maintained at 7 0.5.