FR2798400A1 - TEXTILE ARTICLE COMPRISING REGENERATED CELLULOSE. (II) - Google Patents

Abstract

This textile article comprises cotton fibers, polyester microfibers and regenerated cellulose microfibres.

Description

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 The present invention relates to a textile article, in particular for household or toilet linen, for example for bed sheets or sponge, for clothing, for example for shirts, and the like, comprising cellulose, especially cotton, or polyester.

 The current textile articles, for example bed sheets, which are generally made of 100% cotton or a mixture of 50% polyester and 50% carded cotton, are not very resistant to tearing, are wrinkled a lot, are not very soft or very fine. , and tend to lose in touch and dimensional stability after several washes.

 The present invention aims to overcome these disadvantages by means of a new textile article which is softer, thinner, with a high gloss of colors and a high tear resistance.

 According to the invention, the textile article is made of cellulose fibers, polyester fibers, or a mixture of cellulose fibers and polyester, and is characterized by having regenerated cellulose fibers.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the textile article comprises from 10 to 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose and from 10 to 50% by weight of polyester. You can add carded or combed cotton.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the regenerated cellulose is in the form of microfibres.

 A microfiber is a fiber whose title is less than or equal to a dTex.

 The table below compares the fibers with the microfibers for regenerated cellulose (example for the modal) and the standards and / or the material used to obtain these values.

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Test <SEP> Unit <SEP> Micromodal <SEP> Modal
<tb> Title <SEP> dTex <SEP> 1.0 <SEP> 1.7
<tb> Strength, <SEP> strength, <SEP> condition <SEP> condition <SEP> cN / Tex <SEP> 35 <SEP> 35
<tb> Resistance <SEP> to <SEP> the <SEP> tear, <SEP> elongation, <SEP> state <SEP> conditioned <SEP>% <SEP> 13 <SEP> 14
<tb> Strength <SEP> with <SEP> Wet <SEP> cN / Tex <SEP> 20.5 <SEP> 20.5
<tb> Resistance <SEP> to <SEP><SEP> Tear, <SEP> Elongation <SEP> to <SEP> Wet <SEP>% <SEP> 14 <SEP> 15
<tb> Humidity <SEP>% <SEP> 11 <SEP> 11 <SEP>
<tb> Module <SEP> according to <SEP> BISFA <SEP> cN / Tex / 5 <SEP>% <SEP> 7 <SEP> 6.5
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By thus providing microfibers, which have a higher number of fibers in the section, finer yarns are obtained. The fibers provide a different brightness and reflectance to the light, so the color is clearer. The brighter aspect is due to the large numbers of fibers in section which increases the reflection surface of the light. We also get a more silky appearance, better dimensional stability after washing. On the other hand, the good characteristics relating to the fibers are preserved and the chemical behavior, in the production process of the two types of fibers above, is identical.

 According to an improvement of the invention, the polyester fibers are in the form of polyester microfibers. Below is a comparison table between fibers and microfibers.

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Test <SEP> Unit <SEP> Filifin <SEP> Fibers <SEP> Sample <SEP> Method <SEP> Device <SEP> Used <SEP>
<tb> PES
<tb> Title <SEP> (weight) <SEP> dTex <SEP> 0.92 <SEP> 1.5 <SEP> 20 <SEP> strand <SEP> Measurement <SEP> of <SEP> mass <SEP> Vibromat <SEP> M <SEP>
<tb> linear
<tb> Strength, <SEP> strength, <SEP> condition <SEP> cN / Tex <SEP> 65 <SEP> 64 <SEP> 20 <SEP> strand <SEP> Dynamometer <SEP> Fafegraph <SEP> M
<tb> conditioned
<tb>SEP> sizing rate <SEP>% <SEP> 0.10 <SEP> 0.09 <SEP> 15 <SEP> g <SEP> of <SEP> Sizing <SEP> rate <SEP > by <SEP> Extraction <SEP> ether
<tb> fibers <SEP> extraction <SEP> a <SEP> the ether <SEP> a <SEP> cold
<tb> Moisture <SEP>% <SEP> 0.55 <SEP> 0.55 <SEP> 10 <SEP> g <SEP> of <SEP> Moisture <SEP> Rate <SEP> on <SEP> Fiber <SEP> Oven <SEP> Memmert <SEP>
<tb> fibers <SEP> stretched <SEP> to <SEP> the study
<tb> Humidity <SEP>% <SEP> 0.55 <SEP> 0.55 <SEP> 2 <SEP> g <SEP> of <SEP> fibers <SEP><SEP> moisture <SEP> on <SEP> fiber <SEP> Infralinker
<tb> stretched <SEP> a <SEP> the study
<tb> Length <SEP> of <SEP> cut <SEP> mm <SEP> 35 <SEP> 355 <SEP> 100 <SEP> strands <SEP> Chart <SEP> of <SEP> cut <SEP> Plate <SEP > to <SEP> oil
<tb> practice
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1. -Letiter (standard NF G07-007)
The title is measured by a vibroscope. This method is based on the measurement of the mass per unit length, that is to say the linear density of the fiber.

2. - Elongationandenability (standard NF G07-008)
These two parameters are measured on a Fafegraph.

The control is carried out on the strands whose title is measured previously. The strand is then positioned between 2 clamps that move vertically to the break. The force / elongation curve is drawn and the results are displayed.

3. - Withdrawal
The control is performed on cable (before cutting) on 10 meshes of about 600 dtex.

 The principle is to measure the length of a mesh held between two clamps before and after heat treatment without tension. This treatment is carried out in a saturated vapor atmosphere at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes.

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4. - Moisture content
Moisture is the measure of the weight loss of a fiber sample drawn after steaming at 200 ° C for one hour.

5. - Image rate
The extraction of the size is carried out on 15 g of fibers with ethyl ether, evaporation of the ether and weighing of the residue.

6. - Cutting diagram (standard G07-006)
We measure the length on 100 strands by grouping them by class so that we can form a histogram and calculate the mean and the standard deviation of the lengths.

 The mechanical values of standard polyester fibers and FILIFINE are very close. They are both designed for a harmonious marriage with all other fibers for cotton spinning. The difference lies in the unitary strand title which is 0.92 dTex therefore less than or equal to 1 dTex instead of 1.5 dTex for the standard polyester fiber. This is also the specificity of FILIFINE that claims all the famous properties of common fibers and adds the essential: comfort, softness, lightness. Softer and tougher than cotton, it is also easier to maintain. The difference in printing between the fiber and the microfibre brings more finesse to the fabric.

 According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the regenerated cellulose is included in the group consisting of viscose, modal, polynosic, cupro and lyocell with a preference for the modal.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the article comprises, by weight, from 10 to 50% of regenerated cellulose, 10 to 50% of cotton, and from 10 to 50% of polyester microfibers, the sum of the three constituents being equal to 100%.
The invention finally relates to a method of manufacturing an article, characterized in that it consists in weaving with cellulose fibers, polyester fibers, preferably polyester microfibers, or a mixture of

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 cellulose and polyester fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, preferably microfibers of regenerated cellulose, and subjecting the fabric to heat-setting at a temperature sufficient to superficially soften the polyester fibers.

 Regenerated cellulose microfibers can be made as follows.

=> From wood to chemical pulp:
Wood is the raw material for the production of chemical pulp: in wood there is about 40% of cellulose. The other substances (lignite and sugar) are dissolved while the cellulose changes to a solid state in the form of chemical pulp.

 The wood used in this process is mainly beech. The beech paste is then bleached with oxygen.

This method causes less pollution than chlorine bleaching.

 The wood is cut in two meters section then passes in a chopper to obtain sawdust. A conveyor takes the sawdust to the digestive pulp. The wood is then digested for eight hours at 140-150 degrees centigrade at a pressure of 8 bar.

 The cellulose that is extracted meets very high standards of quality and purity. This is why it is mechanically cleaned, washed and bleached with oxygen in several stages. Bleached cellulose is dehydrated, shredded and flaked, where it is further processed. The cellulose can also be dried in the form of webs for storage or transport.

 The magnesium bisulfite of the process uses a solution of Mg (HSO 3) 2 as the acid which is reinforced with sulfur dioxide. Sulfur dioxide is partially neutralized by hydrated magnesium oxide - Mg (OH) 2 - the purpose of producing the acid. During this process, the chemical fibers are obtained by burning the concentrated acid solution (liquid waste), which can be recycled to 99%.

=> From chemical pulp to fibers and microfibers
The process "viscose", to pass from the chemical pulp to the fibers, is a chemical process. First, the

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 Chemical pulp is dipped in a solution of sodium hydroxide, which converts it to alkali cellulose. The surplus of sodium hydroxide is pressed, the remaining alkali cellulose is defibrated and sent to a tank at very high temperature.

 After this first step, the alkali cellulose undergoes xanthalation (stirring, kneading in the presence of carbon bisulfite). Then when it is dissolved in water and alcohol, this substance becomes viscose.

This viscose must be homogeneous, without bubbles or impurities to be able to pass through the dies. That is why it is filtered, deaerated and passed through a second stage of maturity.

 The viscose is then spun by pressurized pipes. Pumps compress the viscose into spinning tanks.

 Other products can then be incorporated such as fireproof, antibacterial, anti-UV protection products, dyes for dyeing the fiber in the mass. With such products it is therefore quite possible to obtain finished products not fire or anti bacterial, anti U.V. see other possible applications.

 The viscose then passes through thousands of ultra fine holes. It is at this stage that fibers are given the properties of microfibers. The diameter of the dies of the dies being smaller (40 to 50 thousandths of a millimeter), one obtains a fiber of a title lower or equal to 1 dTex which one can classify in the field of the microfibers. The spinning tanks contain sulfuric acid, sodium sulphate and zinc sulphate. As soon as the alkali viscose passes into the acid bath, the sulfuric acid neutralizes the sodium hydroxide. The dissolved cellulose is regenerated and recovered as filaments.

This is why viscose fibers are called regenerated cellulose fibers. After the spinning step, the filaments leave at a constant speed in the form of ribbon, which are stretched and then cut to a desired length. The material is then packaged as bales for shipping.

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Poly (ethylene terephthalate) microfibers can be made as follows:
The manufacturing processes are identical between the FILIFINE and the 1.5 dTex standard. This is, on the one hand, esterification then on the other hand the polycondensation of a mixture of two components: glycol and terephthalic acid. The polymer thus obtained is then extruded and spun into a cable. The latter after mechanical treatments will be divided into fractions ranging from 35 to 40 mm.

Here again, the processes for manufacturing fibers and microfibres are very similar. The significant difference is at the time of extrusion and spinning to obtain a final unit title of 0.9 dTex.

 Cotton, polyester microfibres and regenerated cellulose microfibers are integrated into a spinning process such that the yarn obtained meets the requirements of weaving and the finished product. The son according to the invention can be woven on any type of loom (water jet, jet air shuttle). We can ennoble by a buckling.

 This operation is useful to minimize the risk of pilling on the finished product.

 The appearance of the fabric gains a lot in sharpness.

 The height of the flame is fixed, the only possible adjustment can be made on the speed of passage of the fabric on the flame. The speed is about 100 to 120 m / mm.

 Can then be washed and bleached on an autoclave.

The tissue can then pass into an autoclave to undergo different treatments:
1st step :
Washing in a wetting solution, which makes the product hydrophilic and allows impregnation at the core of the fibers, at 1 cc / 1 for 30 minutes at 50 ° C.,
2nd step:
Cold rinse
3rd step:

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Alkaline bleaching with hydrogen peroxide is useful for destroying yellowish coloring of cotton with a scouring effect that will complete the elimination of residual impurities.

 The polyester part once degreased has a lighter color than that of cotton. Bleaching with hydrogen peroxide will also eliminate the greyish stains left by soiling and spinning and weaving operations.

The bleaching bath contains for example:
0 1 to 2% by weight of hydrogen peroxide for bleaching,
0 1 to 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide for solubilizing the fats contained in the mixture and purifying the fibers,
0 1 to 3% of stabilizers and sequestering agents to neutralize catalytic impurities (heavy metals) which can break down the oxygenated water too quickly and prevent the bleaching operation.

 The fabric is bleached at a temperature greater than or equal to 70 C.

4th step:
Rinse to remove the rest of the oxygenated water and neutralize the pH.

 The fabric can then go into a heat-drying dryer train.

 This operation will make it possible to obtain a dimensional stability of the fabric. The compartments of the train are maintained at 195 C and the fabric is heat set for about 20 seconds. The desired width is obtained by two chains furnished with pliers set exactly to the desired width which symmetrically and simultaneously tend the fabric on both sides of the center. For example, for a finished width of 240 cm, the clamps are set to 243 cm.

 This drying operation at a temperature of between 180 ° C. and 200 ° C., for example at 195 ° C., is necessary to superficially soften the polyester part and eliminate all internal tensions accumulated.

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 during spinning and weaving operations. After cooling the fabric will always tend to return to its attachment position hence the non-crease properties and exceptional stability of polyester-based blends.

 It must be fixed without defect otherwise the defect will be fixed also.

 Fabrics made of polyester microfibers can be thermofixed to fix shrinkage and avoid the Sanforisage stage.

 On the other hand, the tensile / elongation behavior of the viscose microfibers is perfectly adapted to the other constituents of the mixture, that is to say polyester and cotton.

 You can only dye the polyester to get a mottled effect. For this we use a batch process and by exhaustion.

Here are the main steps:
1.Dissolution or dispersion of the dye: the disperse dyes have a very good fastness, they are plastosoluble and penetrate inside the fibers only thanks to the temperature. For this, it must reach a temperature of 130 C to about 2 bar for 2 hours and a half / 3 hours.

 2.Swelling of the fiber which therefore allows penetration.

 3.Adsorption of the dye from the bath to the surface of the fiber.

4.Diffusion in the fiber, k
5. Migration to less concentrated places,
6.Fixation by supply of thermal energy (heating).

 The fabric will now be dried and then prepared by reaming. It comes out of the autoclave when wet. The fabric passes into a scarf containing water and finishing chemicals and is then expressed. Rowing is therefore useful for regulating the moisture content in the fabric and incorporating the products into it.

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 necessary to give the fabric the desired final characteristics.

The solution used can be composed of the following products:
0 A microemulsion of silicone which makes it possible to obtain a silky aspect, a very soft touch, concentration between 5 and 15 g / 1.

0 Polyethylene that softens and helps the work in making (it avoids the heating of the needles that can burn the polyester), concentration between 20 and 30 g / 1,
Polyurethane which improves crease resistance by surrounding the fibers of the fabric, concentration between 15 and 25 g / l.

 On the other hand, unlike cotton articles, the articles according to the invention have only a slight loss of strength in view of the stresses exerted during the preliminary treatments and the effects of the primers are better compared with the viscose.

Example:
Comparison between an article according to the invention and a 100% cotton support:
We have formed a plain weave, of 31 thread count / cm in warp, 26 picks / cm of 122 g / m2, 40% micromodal blend (microfibers of regenerated cellulose supplied by Lenzing), 40% of Filifine (polyester microfibers provided by TERGAL FIBRES de RHONE POULENC) and 20% of combed cotton, on the other hand, a weave made of 100% carded cotton of 110 g / m2 and 31/26 thread count, and finally a polyester (50%) cotton carded (50 %), contexture 31/26, weight 114 g / m2, which corresponds to the most common products on the market.

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The results are shown in the table below

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<tb> Tests <SEP> Unit <SEP> 100 <SEP>% <SEP> Polycotton <SEP> (50 <SEP>% <SEP> 40 <SEP>% <SEP> Standard <SEP> Method <SEP> Device
<tb> cotton <SEP> cotton <SEP> carded / 50 <SEP>% <SEP> Micromodal / 40 <SEP>% <SEP> used
<tb> carded <SEP> pes) <SEP> Micrope / 20 <SEP>%
<tb> cotton <SEP> combed)
<tb> Weight <SEP> g / m2 <SEP> 110 <SEP> 114 <SEP> 122 <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> DINNER <SEP> A <SEP> the <SEP> hand <SEP>
<tb> 12127
<tb> Contexture <SEP> CH / TR <SEP> / dm <SEP> 312/258 <SEP> 314/258 <SEP> 316/264 <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> DINNER <SEP> A <SEP> the <SEP> hand
<tb> 1049/2
<tb> Resistance <SEP> to <SEP><SEP> daN <SEP> 41134 <SEP> 48.8140.6 <SEP> 69153 <SEP> DIN <SEP> DINNER <SEP> Zwick
<tb> tear, <SEP> 53857/1
<tb> lengthening <SEP> CH / TR
<tb> Resistance <SEP> to <SEP><SEP>%<SEP> 5.8 / 10.2 <SEP> 8.9112.3 <SEP> 133/152 <SEP> DIN <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> Zwick
<tb> tear, <SEP> 53857/1
<tb> lengthening <SEP> CHITR
<tb> Angle <SEP> of <SEP> Degree <SEP> DIN <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> Karl
<tb> wrinkling <SEP> CHITR <SEP> After <SEP> 0.5 <SEP> mn <SEP> 58/57 <SEP> 86/95 <SEP> 89/89 <SEP> 53890 <SEP> Schroder /
<tb> After <SEP> 5 <SEP> mn <SEP> 67/66 <SEP> 99/104 <SEP> 105/116 <SEP> Weinheim
<tb> After <SEP> 30 <SEP> mn <SEP> 75/72 <SEP> 107/109 <SEP> 114/122
<tb> Pilling <SEP> martindale <SEP> Note <SEP> SNV <SEP> SNV / Empa <SEP> Martindal /
<tb> After <SEP> 125 <SEP> cycles <SEP> 4 <SEP> 4-5 <SEP> 4-5 <SEP> 198525 <SEP> Heal
<tb> After <SEP> 500 <SEP> cycles <SEP> 3-4 <SEP> 2-3 <SEP> 4
<tb> After <SEP> 2000 <SEP> cycles <SEP> 3-4 <SEP> 1-2 <SEP> 3-4
<tb> Behavior <SEP> at <SEP>% <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> Electrolux
<tb> wash, <SEP> stability <SEP> after <SEP> 1 <SEP> wash <SEP> -5.31-7.7 <SEP> -3.0 / -3.4 <SEP> -4.6 / -5.3 <SE> 26330 <SEP > 26330
<tb> dimensional <SEP> after <SEP> 3 <SEP> washes <SEP> -6.91-7.7 <SEP> + 4.0 / -4.6 <SEP> -5.6 / -69
<tb> after <SEP> 5 <SEP> washes <SEP> -7.9 / -7.7 <SEP> -4.81-5.2 <SEP> -59 / -83
<tb> after <SEP> 10 <SEP> washes <SEP> -8.9 / -8.1 <SEP> -5.41-5.8 <SEP> -6.3 / -8.3
<tb> Scale <SEP> of <SEP> gray <SEP> Note <SEP> 3-4 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 2 <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> DINIEN <SEP> Beuth-
<tb> 20105- <SEP> Vertrieb
<tb> A02
<tb> Image <SEP> of <SEP> Monsanto <SEP> Note <SEP> 1 <SEP> 3 <SEP> 3 <SEP> DIN <SEP> DIN / EN <SEP> Method
<tb> (wrinkling) <SEP> 53895 <SEP> AATC
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Interpretation of results: - Tear resistance:
On the article according to the invention consisting of a mixture of 40% micromodal of 40% of micropolyester and 20% of combed cotton, higher values of tear resistance are obtained, these values indicate the force to be exerted. on the test piece to tear the fabric. The higher the value, the more resistant the fabric is to tearing. The percentage elongation is the ratio of the initial sample size to the final sample size before failure. Therefore, the article according to the invention is more tear-resistant than 100% cotton fabric and polycotton, which implies a longer life probability.

- The Pilling Martindale test:
Samples according to the invention have been tested to simulate a possible pilling which may appear in everyday life. After a certain number of cycles, the specimens are superimposed on standard images to which a score is assigned (score ranging from 1 to 5, 5 being the state where no pilling appears, 1 very intense pilling).

The article according to the invention has less pampering than the 100% cotton fabric and the polycotton.

 To reduce the formation of bristles and to obtain a clean fabric appearance, the articles can be buckled and primed with a suitable resin. This greatly avoids the formation of undesirable pilling during processing or use.

- Washing behavior, dimensional stability:
The dimensional stability of the article according to the invention obtained after 10 washes is significantly better than that of a cotton article. Cellulosic fibers and in particular regenerated fiber types absorb relatively high amounts of water and thus swell more or less.

 Viscose microfibers are distinguished from viscose fibers by much higher strengths, lower water absorption capacity and swelling.

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 less. During the passage in train where the fabric is prepared and then dried, the microfibers make it possible to correct the problems related to the withdrawal. Indeed, the fabric swells less, which considerably reduces the internal tensions in the fabric. During drying, these swellings are eliminated, the tensions are released (lower than with other supports) and the textile material shrinks much less.

- The image of Monsanto (crumplability test)
On the same principle as the pilling test, the "crumpled" sample is compared to 5 images representative of a certain degree of crumpling, a score ranging from 1 to 5 is then attributed (the rating 5 corresponds to the aspect the smoother, the quotation 1 with the most crumpled appearance).

 This blend brings remarkable results to the Monsanto test compared to cotton. This test shows that the finished fabric has excellent wrinkling properties and therefore a very good ironing property, a very popular property in everyday life.

- Touch, drop, shine:
As with all cellulosic fiber textiles, the best touch / fall / shine results are achieved when all wet processes take place at very low levels of tensile and pressure stress.

 This also applies to the article according to the invention which remains much less sensitive to all these efforts.

 The yarns have a good regularity, a pronounced brilliance, a very soft character and confer an inimitable touch and lead to the warp and weft fabrics.

Claims (8)

1.Textile article made of cellulose fibers, polyester fibers or a mixture of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers, characterized in that it further comprises regenerated cellulose fibers.  2. Article according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 10 to 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose fibers.  3. Article according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the regenerated cellulose fibers are in the form of microfibers having a titre less than or equal to 1 dTex.  4. Article according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the regenerated cellulose fibers are viscose, modal, polynosic, cupro or lyocell.  5. Article according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester fibers are microfibers having a titre less than or equal to 1 dTex.  6. Article according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises 10 to 50% by weight of regenerated cellulose fibers, 10 to 50% by weight of cellulose fibers including cotton and 10 to 50 % by weight of polyester fibers, the sum of the three constituents being equal to 100%.  7. Article according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a fabric or a thread.  8. A method of manufacturing an article according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it consists of weaving with cellulose fibers, polyester fibers or a mixture of cellulose fibers and polyester fibers preferably polyester microfibers, and regenerated cellulose fibers, preferably microfibers of regenerated cellulose, and preferably polyester microfibers and subjecting the fabric to heat-setting at a temperature sufficient to superficially soften the polyester fibers.