FR2782919A1 - Cosmetic composition used for improving skin condition contains retinoid and phytohormone - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition used for improving skin condition contains retinoid and phytohormone Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2782919A1 FR2782919A1 FR9811080A FR9811080A FR2782919A1 FR 2782919 A1 FR2782919 A1 FR 2782919A1 FR 9811080 A FR9811080 A FR 9811080A FR 9811080 A FR9811080 A FR 9811080A FR 2782919 A1 FR2782919 A1 FR 2782919A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- sep
- sitosterol
- phytohormone
- retinol
- retinoid
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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- IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N quinbolone Chemical compound O([C@H]1CC[C@H]2[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@]4(C=CC(=O)C=C4CC3)C)CC[C@@]21C)C1=CCCC1 IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K9/0012—Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
- A61K9/0014—Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Botany (AREA)
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- Mycology (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)
Abstract
Description
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La présente invention se rapporte à une composition destinée à lutter contre les effets du vieillissement cutané et/ou des phanères, à l'utilisation d'une telle composition ainsi qu'à une méthode de traitement cosmétique des modifications liées au vieillissement de la peau et/ou des phanères. The present invention relates to a composition intended to combat the effects of skin aging and / or superficial body growths, to the use of such a composition as well as to a method for the cosmetic treatment of skin aging-related changes and / or dander.
La peau comprend trois compartiments, l'épiderme, dont la couche externe est le stratum corneum, le derme, et plus en profondeur l'hypoderme. Il existe des échanges entre ces différents compartiments dermiques et épidermiques, qui sont destinés à assurer le renouvellement cellulaire, la cohésion et l'hydratation des couches externes. The skin has three compartments, the epidermis, the outer layer of which is the stratum corneum, the dermis, and deeper the hypodermis. There are exchanges between these different dermal and epidermal compartments, which are intended to ensure cell renewal, cohesion and hydration of the outer layers.
Le derme résulte de l'activité biosynthétique des fibroblastes, qui élaborent les constituants de la matrice extracellulaire. Celle-ci est formée de quatre grandes familles de macromolécules : les collagènes, l'élastine, les glycoprotéines de structure et les protéoglycanes. The dermis results from the biosynthetic activity of fibroblasts, which elaborate the constituents of the extracellular matrix. It consists of four main families of macromolecules: collagens, elastin, structural glycoproteins and proteoglycans.
On sait que le vieillissement est un phénomène physiologique qui fait suite à une période de croissance. Il se traduit notamment par un amincissement de la peau et une perte de l'élasticité, menant à l'apparition de rides plus ou moins profondes ; il y a également un dessèchement superficiel et on peut également constater une pigmentation anarchique. We know that aging is a physiological phenomenon that follows a period of growth. It results notably in a thinning of the skin and a loss of the elasticity, leading to the appearance of wrinkles more or less deep; there is also a superficial drying out and one can also note anarchic pigmentation.
Plus particulièrement, on sait que le processus du vieillissement implique une augmentation de la teneur d'une classe spécifique d'enzymes, à savoir les métalloprotéinases de matrice, notamment les collagénases MMP-1 et les stromélysines MMP-3, ainsi qu'une diminution de la teneur des composés inhibiteurs tissulaires de l'activité des métalloprotéinases ou ci-après "inhibiteurs TIMP" (d'après l'expression anglaise correspondante "Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinase"). Ces phénomènes liés au vieillissement se traduisent par une destruction progressive de la matrice extracellulaire More particularly, it is known that the aging process involves an increase in the content of a specific class of enzymes, namely matrix metalloproteinases, in particular MMP-1 collagenases and MMP-3 stromelysins, as well as a decrease in the content of a specific class of enzymes. the content of the tissue inhibiting compounds of the activity of metalloproteinases or hereafter "TIMP inhibitors" (according to the corresponding English expression "Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinase"). These phenomena related to aging result in a progressive destruction of the extracellular matrix
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et donc en particulier par l'apparition des signes visibles du vieillissement cutané. and therefore in particular by the appearance of visible signs of skin aging.
On peut lire à ce sujet, concernant en particulier les inhibiteurs TIMP, l'article de C. Mauch et al, "Role of the Extracellular Matrix in the Dégradation of Connective Tissuc", Arch Dcrmatol. Res. (1994) 287 : 107-114. In this regard, concerning in particular TIMP inhibitors, the article by C. Mauch et al., "Role of the Extracellular Matrix in the Degradation of Connective Tissuc", Arch Dcrmatol. Res. (1994) 287: 107-114.
De nombreux actifs ont été proposés pour prévenir ou retarder les effets du vieillissement. Il a notamment été montré que les rétinoïdes ont un effet favorable pour améliorer l'apparence et l'état de la peau et lutter contre les signes du vieillissement. Many assets have been proposed to prevent or delay the effects of aging. In particular, it has been shown that retinoids have a favorable effect on improving the appearance and condition of the skin and countering the signs of aging.
On a maintenant trouvé de manière tout a fait surprenante et inattendue que l'utilisation d'une association de certains rétinoïdes avec une classe spécifique de phytohormones permet de potentialiser l'activité du rétinoide utilisé, voire de fournir un effet de synergie, en vue de réduire de manière visible les effets liés au vieillissement de la peau et/ou des phanères. It has now been found quite surprisingly and unexpectedly that the use of a combination of certain retinoids with a specific class of phytohormones makes it possible to potentiate the activity of the retinoid used, or even to provide a synergistic effect, with a view to visibly reduce the effects of aging skin and / or skin appendages.
Plus particulièrement, l'utilisation d'une telle association permet de potentialiser l'activité du rétinoide, voire de fournir un effet de synergie, en vue d'augmenter la teneur en inhibiteurs TIMP-1 et ainsi de contrer la destruction de la matrice extracellulaire liée au vieillissement comme expliqué ci-dessus. More particularly, the use of such an association makes it possible to potentiate the activity of the retinoid, or even to provide a synergistic effect, with a view to increasing the content of TIMP-1 inhibitors and thus to counteract the destruction of the extracellular matrix. related to aging as explained above.
Ce résultat est d'autant plus surprenant que l'utilisation d'une telle association n'entraîne pas un effet significatif d'augmentation de la teneur en métalloprotéinases, auquel l'homme du métier pouvait pourtant s'attendre, dans le cadre d'un phénomène de rétrorégulation en réponse à l'augmentation de la teneur en inhibiteurs TIMP. This result is all the more surprising since the use of such an association does not lead to a significant effect of increasing the metalloproteinase content, which the skilled person could nevertheless expect, in the context of a phenomenon of retroregulation in response to the increase in the content of TIMP inhibitors.
Ce résultat est par ailleurs surprenant dans la mesure où l'utilisation d'une telle association n'entraîne pas de baisse significative de la croissance (ou prolifération) cellulaire. En effet, l'homme du métier pouvait également s'attendre à ce qu'une baisse de l'activité des métalloprotéinases, induite par l'augmentation de la teneur en This result is also surprising insofar as the use of such an association does not lead to a significant decrease in cell growth (or proliferation). Indeed, the skilled person could also expect that a decrease in the activity of metalloproteinases, induced by the increase in the content of
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inhibiteurs TIMP, entraîne une baisse des mouvements cellulaires, provoquant ainsi une inhibition par contact de la division cellulaire et par conséquent une baisse indésirable du renouvellement cellulaire. inhibitors TIMP, causes a decrease in cell movements, thus causing contact inhibition of cell division and therefore an undesirable decrease in cell turnover.
En d'autres termes, l'association rétinoïde-phytohormonc selon l'invention permet avantageusement de contrer le processus de vieillissement lié à l'activité des métalloprotéinases sans pour autant favoriser, de manière indésirable, tout autre processus de vieillissement lié à une baisse du renouvellement cellulaire. In other words, the retinoid-phytohormone combination according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to counter the aging process linked to the activity of the metalloproteinases without undesirably favoring any other aging process linked to a decrease in cell renewal.
La présente invention se rapporte ainsi à une composition cosmétique, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient une association d'au moins un rétinoïde, choisi parmi le rétinol, les esters de ce dernier et les rétinaldéhydes, avec au moins une phytohormone choisie dans le groupe constitué par les phytostérols et les dérivés éthoxylés de ces derniers, les triterpènes pentacycliques, les isoflavones, les isoflavones glucosides, les coumestanes et les saponosides, et au moins un excipient cosmétiquement acceptable. The present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains a combination of at least one retinoid, selected from retinol, the esters thereof and retinaldehydes, with at least one phytohormone selected from the group consisting of phytosterols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof, pentacyclic triterpenes, isoflavones, isoflavones glucosides, coumestanes and saponosides, and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
Pour ce qui concerne le rétinoide pouvant être utilisé dans la composition selon l'invention, le rétinol et ses esters sont plus particulièrement préférés. With regard to the retinoid that can be used in the composition according to the invention, retinol and its esters are more particularly preferred.
Le terme "rétinol" doit s'entendre comme incluant les isomères hydrogénés et non hydrogénés, tels que le 9-cis-rétinol et le didéhydrorétinol. The term "retinol" should be understood to include both hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated isomers, such as 9-cis-retinol and didehydroretinol.
Les esters du rétinol pouvant être utilisés comme rétinoide dans la composition selon l'invention sont en particulier les esters obtenus avec l'acide acétique, l'acide propionique, l'acide palmitique ou encore l'acide stéarique. The retinol esters which can be used as retinoids in the composition according to the invention are in particular the esters obtained with acetic acid, propionic acid, palmitic acid or even stearic acid.
Par ailleurs, l'expression "les rétinaldéhydes" doit s'entendre comme incluant les quatre formes stéréoisomères trans, 13-cis, 11-cis et 9-cis. In addition, the term "retinaldehydes" should be understood to include the four trans, 13-cis, 11-cis, and 9-cis stereoisomeric forms.
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Pour ce qui concerne la phytohormone pouvant être utilisée dans la composition selon l'invention, les phytostérols et leurs dérivés éthoxylés sont plus particulièrement préférés. As regards the phytohormone that can be used in the composition according to the invention, phytosterols and their ethoxylated derivatives are more particularly preferred.
Parmi ceux-ci, on peut citer en particulier le P-sitostérol, l'asitostérol, le y-sitostcrol, le ss-sitostanol, le stigmastérol, le stigmastanol, le campestérol ou encore le campestanol. Par exemple, le P-sitostérol peut être utilisé sous la forme du produit dénommé "Ultra" (comprenant principalement du (3-sitostérol) tel que commercialisé par la société Kaukas. Dans le cas d'une utilisation d'un mélange de phytostérols, on peut citer par exemple le produit dénommé "Primal" (comprenant principalement du P-sitostérol, de l'a-sitostérol et du campestérol) tel que commercialisé par la société Kaukas. Among these, there may be mentioned in particular P-sitosterol, asitosterol, y-sitostcrol, s-sitostanol, stigmasterol, stigmastanol, campesterol or even campestanol. For example, β-sitosterol may be used in the form of the product called "Ultra" (mainly comprising (3-sitosterol) as marketed by Kaukas Inc. In the case of a use of a mixture of phytosterols, for example, the product called "Primal" (mainly comprising P-sitosterol, a-sitosterol and campesterol) as marketed by Kaukas.
Par "dérivés éthoxylés" des phytostérols, on entend selon l'invention des phytostérols, notamment ceux mentionnés ci-dessus, dont le groupe hydroxy a été remplacé par un groupe de formule
H (OCH2 CH2)@ 0 - (1) dans laquelle n représente un nombre entier 1 et 100 et de préférence entre 5 et 50. On peut par exemple citer les produits dénommés "E5", "E10", "E15", "E25" et "E50" commercialisés par la société Kaukas, qui sont des (3-sitostérol éthoxylés, les chiffres 5,10, 15,25 et 50 indiquant la valeur de n dans le groupe de formule (I). By "ethoxylated derivatives" of the phytosterols is meant according to the invention phytosterols, in particular those mentioned above, the hydroxy group of which has been replaced by a group of formula
H (OCH 2 CH 2) 0 0 - (1) in which n represents an integer 1 and 100 and preferably between 5 and 50. For example, products referred to as "E5", "E10", "E15", " E25 "and" E50 "marketed by Kaukas, which are ethoxylated (3-sitosterol), the numbers 5, 10, 15, 25 and 50 indicating the value of n in the group of formula (I).
Parmi les triterpènes pentacycliques pouvant être utilisés dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer en particulier les oléananes (avec la p-amyrine), les friedelanes (avec la friedeline), les taraxastanes (avec le taraxastérol) ou encore les ursanes (avec l'a-amyrine). Among the pentacyclic triterpenes that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of oleananes (with p-amyrine), friedelanes (with friedeline), taraxastanes (with taraxasterol) or even ursanes ( with a-amyrin).
Parmi les isoflavones pouvant être utilisées dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer en particulier la daidzéine ou encore la génistéine. Among the isoflavones that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of daidzein or else genistein.
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Parmi les isoflavones glucosides pouvant être utilisés dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer en particulier la daidzine ou encore la génistine. Among the glucoside isoflavones that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of daidzine or else genistin.
Parmi les coumestanes pouvant être utilisés dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer en particulier le coumestérol. Among the coumestanes that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of cholesterol.
Enfin, parmi les saponosides pouvant être utilisés dans la composition selon l'invention, on peut citer en particulier la glycyrrhizine de la réglisse (glycyrrhizz glabra), les saponosides d'hydrocotyle (centella asiatica), les saponosides de tepescohuite (mimosa tenuiflora), les saponosides de souci (calendula officinalis) ou les saponosides de primevères (primula veris). Finally, among the saponosides that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of glycyrrhizin of licorice (glycyrrhizz glabra), saponosides of hydrocotyl (centella asiatica), saponosides of tepescohuite (mimosa tenuiflora), marigold saponosides (calendula officinalis) or primrose saponosides (primula veris).
Selon un mode de réalisation particulièrement préféré de l'invention, le rétinoide est le rétinol et la phytohormone est le sssitostérol ou un dérivé éthoxylé de ce dernier. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the retinoid is retinol and the phytohormone is sssitosterol or an ethoxylated derivative thereof.
De préférence, la composition selon l'invention présente une concentration en rétinoide comprise entre 0,0001et 3 % en poids, et une concentration en phytohormone comprise entre 0,0001et 5 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a retinoid concentration of between 0.0001 and 3% by weight, and a phytohormone concentration of between 0.0001 and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention comprend également au moins un excipient cosmétiquement acceptable, adapté à une administration par voie topique externe. Des excipients adaptés à la formulation sont connus de l'homme du métier et comprennent notamment des épaississants, des émulsionnants, des conservateurs, des colorants, des parfums, etc. The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, suitable for external topical administration. Suitable excipients for the formulation are known to those skilled in the art and include, in particular, thickeners, emulsifiers, preservatives, dyes, perfumes, etc.
La composition selon l'invention peut être préparée selon des conditions opératoires qui font partie des connaissances générales de l'homme du métier. The composition according to the invention may be prepared according to operating conditions which form part of the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
La composition selon l'invention peut ainsi se présenter par exemple sous la forme d'une solution, d'un gel, d'une lotion, d'une crème, d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau, d'une émulsion eau-dans-huile The composition according to the invention may thus be for example in the form of a solution, a gel, a lotion, a cream, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water emulsion. -in-oil
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ou peut être associée à tout vecteur cosmétiquement acceptable tels que des liposomes. or may be associated with any cosmetically acceptable carrier such as liposomes.
Enfin, la composition selon l'invention peut bien entendu contenir en outre des ingrédients cosmétiques tels que des agents hydratants, des agents adoucissants, ou encore des filtres chimiques ou organiques. Finally, the composition according to the invention may of course also contain cosmetic ingredients such as moisturizing agents, softening agents, or chemical or organic filters.
La composition selon l'invention, du fait de l'activité de l'association rétinoïdc/phytohormone, en particulier de l'association du rétinol avec le (3-sitostérol, sur les teneurs en inhibiteurs TIMP et en métalloprotéinases, a un effet avantageux sur les signes majeurs du vieillissement, en termes d'efficacité, par rapport à une composition ne contenant que le rétinoïde de cette association. The composition according to the invention, because of the activity of the retinoid / phytohormone combination, in particular of the combination of retinol with (3-sitosterol, on the content of inhibitors TIMP and metalloproteinases, has a beneficial effect. on the major signs of aging, in terms of effectiveness, compared to a composition containing only the retinoid of this combination.
On a ainsi constaté que l'association rétinoide/phytohormone permet au moins de potentialiser l'activité du rétinoide et même, dans certains cas, d'obtenir une synergie. It has thus been found that the retinoid / phytohormone combination at least makes it possible to potentiate the activity of the retinoid and even, in certain cases, to obtain a synergy.
Les premiers effets peuvent être observés après quelques semaines d'utilisation de la composition et ils s'exercent en profondeur. The first effects can be observed after a few weeks of use of the composition and they are exercised in depth.
Ces effets comprennent la réduction du nombre et/ou de la profondeur des rides, le lissage de la surface cutanée et de ses irrégularités, le raffermissement de la peau et une meilleure hydratation. La composition selon l'invention permet en outre d'unifier le teint et/ou de prévenir ou de diminuer l'apparition des taches de vieillesse, des vergetures et de la cellulite. La composition selon l'invention est particulièrement adaptée pour lutter contre les rides et le relâchement des tissus. Elle protège également la peau contre les agressions de l'environnement, notamment les UV, et la pollution. Elle donne un aspect uni et prépare la peau à recevoir d'autres produits cosmétiques et de maquillage. These effects include reducing the number and / or depth of wrinkles, smoothing the skin surface and its irregularities, firming the skin and improving hydration. The composition according to the invention also makes it possible to unify the complexion and / or to prevent or diminish the appearance of age spots, stretch marks and cellulite. The composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for combating wrinkles and loosening of tissues. It also protects the skin against environmental aggressions, especially UV, and pollution. It gives a smooth appearance and prepares the skin for other cosmetic and make-up products.
La composition selon l'invention peut être utilisée au choix le matin et/ou le soir sur le visage ou les mains ou encore toute autre partie du corps. Sur l'épiderme des mains, elle est particulièrement appropriée pour diminuer l'hyperpigmentation et lutter contre The composition according to the invention may be used in the morning and / or evening on the face or hands or any other part of the body. On the epidermis of the hands, it is particularly suitable for reducing hyperpigmentation and fighting against
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l'apparition des taches de vieillesse, ainsi que pour augmenter la fermeté des tissus dans cette région, qui ont tendance à devenir flasques avec l'âge. the appearance of age spots, as well as to increase the firmness of tissues in this region, which tend to become flaccid with age.
La composition selon l'invention est particulièrement appropriée pour le traitement des zones du contour des yeux et des lèvres, qui sont très fragiles et ont une susceptibilité élevée à l'apparition de rides et de relâchement. Elle est particulièrement bien tolérée dans cette zone sensible où son activité anti-âge, due à l'activité de l'association rétinoïde/phytohormone, de préférence synergique, s'exercera après quelques semaines d'application. Cette composition permet de réduire visiblement le nombre de rides et les poches sous les yeux ; elle raffermit la peau particulièrement sensible du contour de l'#il, de la bouche et du cou. The composition according to the invention is particularly suitable for the treatment of the areas of the eye contour and the lips, which are very fragile and have a high susceptibility to the appearance of wrinkles and loosening. It is particularly well tolerated in this sensitive zone where its anti-aging activity, due to the activity of the retinoid / phytohormone combination, preferably synergistic, will be exerted after a few weeks of application. This composition makes it possible to visibly reduce the number of wrinkles and bags under the eyes; it firms the particularly sensitive skin of the contour of the eye, the mouth and the neck.
Enfin, la composition selon l'invention peut également s'appliquer sur les phanères, notamment sur la chevelure et les ongles. Elle permet en particulier de renforcer les ongles, en évitant qu'ils deviennent cassants, et améliorer leur aspect notamment en luttant contre l'apparition de stries et/ou de taches. Finally, the composition according to the invention can also be applied to superficial body growths, in particular on the hair and nails. In particular, it makes it possible to strengthen the nails, preventing them from becoming brittle, and to improve their appearance, in particular by combating the appearance of streaks and / or spots.
La présente invention concerne également l'utilisation d'une association d'au moins un rétinoïde, choisi parmi le rétinol, les esters de ce dernier et les rétinaldéhydes, avec au moins une phytohormone choisie dans le groupe constitué par les phytostérols et les dérivés éthoxylés de ces derniers, les triterpènes pentacycliques, les isoflavones, les isoflavones glucosides, les coumestanes et les saponosides, pour la préparation d'une composition destinée à augmenter la teneur en composés inhibiteurs tissulaires des métalloprotéinases. The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of at least one retinoid selected from retinol, the esters thereof and retinaldehydes, with at least one phytohormone chosen from the group consisting of phytosterols and ethoxylated derivatives. of these, pentacyclic triterpenes, isoflavones, isoflavones glucosides, coumestanes and saponosides, for the preparation of a composition for increasing the content of tissue inhibitory compounds of metalloproteinases.
Plus particulièrement, cette utilisation est caractérisée en ce que la composition préparée est destinée à améliorer l'élasticité de la peau et/ou à la prévention ou au traitement des modifications de la peau et des phanères liées au vieillissement. More particularly, this use is characterized in that the composition prepared is intended to improve the elasticity of the skin and / or the prevention or treatment of changes in the skin and skin appendages related to aging.
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En particulier, l'utilisation est caractérisée en ce que le rétinoide est choisi parmi le rétinol et ses esters. In particular, the use is characterized in that the retinoid is selected from retinol and its esters.
Par ailleurs, l'utilisation est caractérisée en ce que la phytohormone est choisie parmi les phytostérols et les dérivés éthoxylés de ces derniers, et est de préférence choisie dans le groupe constitué par le P-sitostérol, l'a-sitostérol, le y-sitostérol, le p-sitostanol, le stigmastérol, le stigmastanol, le campestérol, le campestanol, et les dérivés éthoxylés de ces derniers. Furthermore, the use is characterized in that the phytohormone is chosen from phytosterols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof, and is preferably selected from the group consisting of P-sitosterol, α-sitosterol, γ-sitosterol and sitosterol, p-sitostanol, stigmasterol, stigmastanol, campesterol, campestanol, and the ethoxylated derivatives thereof.
Plus particulièrement encore, l'utilisation est caractérisée en ce que le rétinoide est le rétinol et la phytohormone est le p-sitostérol ou un dérivé éthoxylé de ce dernier. Even more particularly, the use is characterized in that the retinoid is retinol and the phytohormone is p-sitosterol or an ethoxylated derivative thereof.
En particulier, l'utilisation décrite ci-dessus permet de préparer une composition dermo-cosmétique destinée à améliorer les propriétés viscoélastiques de la peau et à prévenir ou diminuer la formation des rides. In particular, the use described above makes it possible to prepare a dermo-cosmetic composition intended to improve the viscoelastic properties of the skin and to prevent or reduce the formation of wrinkles.
Enfin, la présente invention concerne également une méthode de traitement cosmétique des modifications liées au vieillissement de la peau et/ou des phanères, caractérisée en ce qu'on applique sur la peau et/ou les phanères une composition telle que décrite ci-dessus. Finally, the present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of changes related to aging of the skin and / or superficial body growths, characterized in that a composition as described above is applied to the skin and / or the integuments.
La présente invention va maintenant être illustrée à l'aide d'exemples qui ne doivent en aucun cas être interprêtés comme pouvant en limiter la portée. The present invention will now be illustrated by means of examples which should in no way be interpreted as limiting its scope.
Exemple 1: étude de l'activité anti-âge de l'association de rétinol avec du (3-sitostérol in vitro sur des fibroblastes du derme humain. Example 1: Study of the anti-aging activity of the combination of retinol with (3-sitosterol in vitro on fibroblasts of the human dermis.
1) Matériel et méthode. 1) Material and method.
On a isolé des fibroblastes du derme humain à partir d'une biopsie issue d'une chirurgie plastique sur une patiente âgée de 65 ans. Ils ont été utilisés au treizième passage et ensemencés à environ Fibroblasts from the human dermis were isolated from a plastic surgery biopsy on a 65-year-old female patient. They were used at the thirteenth pass and seeded at approximately
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80 000 cellules dans des plaques de culture de 24 puits avec 0,5 ml de milieu de culture additionné à 10% de sérum f#tal de veau et d'antibiotiques. 80,000 cells in 24-well culture plates with 0.5 ml of culture medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum and antibiotics.
Après 48 heures d'ensemencement, les cellules ont été traitées par le produit à tester à différentes concentrations de ce dernier, dans un milieu de culture à 1% de sérum f#tal de veau. Chaque concentration a été testée trois fois. After 48 hours of seeding, the cells were treated with the product to be tested at different concentrations of the latter, in a culture medium containing 1% fetal calf serum. Each concentration was tested three times.
Après deux jours d'incubation à 37 C (c'est à dire à "D2" dans ce qui suit) on a mesuré le nombre de cellules dans la moitié des cultures. After two days of incubation at 37 ° C (that is, "D2" in what follows), the number of cells was measured in half of the cultures.
On a traité à nouveau, à D2, par le produit testé, les cellules de l'autre moitié des cultures pour effectuer une mesure du nombre de cellules après cinq jours d'incubation à 37 C (c'est à dire à "D5" dans ce qui suit). The cells of the other half of the cultures were again treated with D2 by the tested product to measure the number of cells after five days of incubation at 37 ° C (ie "D5"). in the following).
Les mesures du nombre de cellules, notamment pour l'étude de la prolifération cellulaire, ont été réalisées avec un compteur de cellules "Coulter counter" tel que commercialisé par la société Coultonics. The measurements of the number of cells, in particular for the study of cell proliferation, were carried out with a "Coulter Counter" cell counter as marketed by Coultonics.
Les mesures suivantes des TIMP-1, MMP-1 et MMP-3 ont été réalisées avec des kits ELISA, sur le surnageant du milieu de culture cellulaire, récupérées et stockées à -80 C avant mesure. The following measurements of TIMP-1, MMP-1 and MMP-3 were carried out with ELISA kits, on the supernatant of the cell culture medium, recovered and stored at -80 ° C. before measurement.
Pour chaque série de mesure, le témoin a été des cultures ou des surnageants de cultures non traitées. For each measurement series, the control was cultures or supernatants of untreated cultures.
2) Etude de l'évolution des TIMP-1. 2) Study of the evolution of TIMP-1.
Lors du vieillissement in vivo, la teneur en TIMP-1 décroit comme déjà expliqué dans ce qui précède. L'activité d'une composition selon l'invention sur cette teneur en TIMP-1 a été mesurée à D2 et D5. Les résultats sont reportés dans le tableau 1 suivant (les résultats y sont exprimés en nanogrammes de TIMP-1 par cellule). During aging in vivo, the content of TIMP-1 decreases as already explained in the foregoing. The activity of a composition according to the invention on this content of TIMP-1 was measured at D2 and D5. The results are reported in the following Table 1 (the results are expressed in nanograms of TIMP-1 per cell).
On peut ainsi constater que l'association rétinoide-phytohormone d'une composition selon l'invention permet au moins de potentialiser de It can thus be seen that the retinoid-phytohormone combination of a composition according to the invention makes it possible at least to potentiate
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manière significative l'activité du rétinoide, sinon de fournir un effet de synergie, quant à l'augmentation de la teneur en inhibiteurs TIMP-1. retinoid activity significantly, if not to provide a synergistic effect, as to increase the content of TIMP-1 inhibitors.
3) Etude de l'évolution des MMP-1 et MMP-3. 3) Study of the evolution of MMP-1 and MMP-3.
Lors du vieillissement in vivo, la teneur en métalloprotéinases MMP-1 (collagénase) et MMP-3 (stromélysines) augmente comme déjà expliqué dans ce qui précède, ce qui conduit à une destruction progressive de la matrice extracellulaire. L'activité d'une composition selon l'invention sur cette teneur respectivement en MMP-1 et MMP-3 a été mesurée à D2 et D5. Les résultats sont reportés respectivement dans les tableaux 2 et 3 suivants (les résultats sont exprimés en nanogrammes de MMP-1 ou MMP-3 par cellule). During aging in vivo, the content of metalloproteinases MMP-1 (collagenase) and MMP-3 (stromelysins) increases as already explained in the foregoing, which leads to a progressive destruction of the extracellular matrix. The activity of a composition according to the invention on this content respectively of MMP-1 and MMP-3 was measured at D2 and D5. The results are reported respectively in the following tables 2 and 3 (the results are expressed in nanograms of MMP-1 or MMP-3 per cell).
On peut ainsi constater que l'association rétinoide-phytohormone d'une composition selon l'invention permet de diminuer la teneur en métalloprotéinases MMP-1 et MMP-3. En particulier, il convient de noter que l'augmentation de la teneur en inhibiteurs TIMP-1 ne provoque pas une quelconque augmentation significative, par un phénomène de rétrorégulation, de la teneur en métalloprotéinases. It can thus be seen that the retinoid-phytohormone combination of a composition according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the content of metalloproteinases MMP-1 and MMP-3. In particular, it should be noted that increasing the content of inhibitors TIMP-1 does not cause any significant increase, by a phenomenon of retro-regulation, of the metalloproteinase content.
4) Etude de la prolifération cellulaire. 4) Study of cellular proliferation.
L'activité d'une composition selon l'invention sur la prolifération cellulaire a été mesurée à D2 et D5. Les résultats (exprimés en nombre de cellules) sont reportés dans le tableau 4 suivant. The activity of a composition according to the invention on cell proliferation was measured at D2 and D5. The results (expressed in number of cells) are reported in the following Table 4.
On peut ainsi constater que l'association rétinoide-phytohormone d'une composition selon l'invention ne provoque pas de manière significative une baisse indésirable du renouvellement cellulaire. It can thus be seen that the retinoid-phytohormone combination of a composition according to the invention does not significantly cause an undesirable decrease in cell renewal.
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TABLEAU 1
TABLE 1
<tb> Produits <SEP> testés <SEP> TIMP-1 <SEP> à <SEP> D2 <SEP> Activité <SEP> TIMP-1 <SEP> à <SEP> D5 <SEP> Activité
<tb> <tb> Products <SEP> tested <SEP> TIMP-1 <SEP> to <SEP> D2 <SEP> Activity <SEP> TIMP-1 <SEP> to <SEP> D5 <SEP> Activity
<Tb>
(ng/ 100 /témoin n 100 /témoin cellules) /témoin ng 100 /témoin
(ng / 100 / control n 100 / control cells) / control ng 100 / control
<tb> à <SEP> D2 <SEP> cellules) <SEP> à <SEP> D5
<tb> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <SEP> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Témoin <SEP> 1,02 <SEP> 0,06 <SEP> 2,09 <SEP> 0,43 <SEP>
<tb> <tb> to <SEP> D2 <SEP> cells) <SEP> to <SEP> D5
<tb> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <SEP> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Control <SEP> 1.02 <SEP> 0.06 <SEP> 2.09 <SEP> 0.43 <SEP>
<Tb>
Rétinol 10-6% 1,18 0,05 16 3,58 0,34 71
Retinol 10-6% 1.18 0.05 16 3.58 0.34 71
<tb> Rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> 1,31 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0,03 <SEP> 29 <SEP> 2,76 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0,15 <SEP> 32
<tb> (3-sitostérol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 1,15 <SEP> 0,03 <SEP> 13 <SEP> 1,87 <SEP> 0,24 <SEP> -11 <SEP>
<tb> (3-sitostérol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 1,24 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0,06 <SEP> 22 <SEP> 2,08 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0,08 <SEP> 0 <SEP>
<tb> <tb> Retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> 1.31 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0.03 <SEP> 29 <SEP> 2.76 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0.15 <SEP> 32
<tb> (3-sitosterol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 1.15 <SEP> 0.03 <SEP> 13 <SEP> 1.87 <SEP> 0.24 <SEP> -11 <SEP>
<tb> (3-sitosterol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 1.24 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0.06 <SEP> 22 <SEP> 2.08 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0.08 <SEP> 0 <SEP>
<Tb>
)3-sitostérol 5x10-3% 1,26 0,05 23 2,95 0,17 41 rétinol 10-6% + (3-sitostérol 10-4%1,52 0,05'492,76 0,1132 rétinol 10-6% + 0-sitostérol 10-3% 1,00+0,04 -2 3,02+0,33 45 rétinol 10-6% + 0-sitostérol 5x10-3% 1,27 0,05 24 4,09 0,27 96 rétinol 10-5% + 0-sitostérol 10-4% 1,40 0,27 38 3,60 0,33 72 rétinol 10-5% + 0-sitostérol 10-3% 1,41+0,05 38 2,56+0,05 23
) 3-sitosterol 5x10-3% 1.26 0.05 23 2.95 0.17 41 retinol 10-6% + (3-sitosterol 10-4% 1.52 0.05'492.76 0.11132 retinol 10-6% + 0-sitosterol 10-3% 1.00 + 0.04 -2 3.02 + 0.33 45 retinol 10-6% + 0-sitosterol 5x10-3% 1.27 0.05 24 4 , 09 0.27 96 retinol 10-5% + 0-sitosterol 10-4% 1.40 0.27 38 3.60 0.33 72 retinol 10-5% + 0-sitosterol 10-3% 1.41+ 0.05 38 2.56 + 0.05 23
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> (3-sitostérol <SEP> 5x10-3% <SEP> 1,52 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0,05 <SEP> 50 <SEP> 3,90 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0,31 <SEP> 87
<tb> <tb> retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> (3-sitosterol <SEP> 5x10-3% <SEP> 1.52 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0.05 <SEP> 50 <MS> 3.90 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0.31 <SEP> 87
<Tb>
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TABLEAU 2
TABLE 2
<tb> Produits <SEP> testés <SEP> MMP-1 <SEP> à <SEP> D2 <SEP> Activité <SEP> MMP-1 <SEP> à <SEP> D5 <SEP> Activité
<tb> (ng/ <SEP> 1000 <SEP> /témoin <SEP> (ng/1000 <SEP> /témoin
<tb> à <SEP> D2 <SEP> cellules) <SEP> à <SEP> D5
<tb> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Témoin <SEP> ~~ <SEP> 7,53 <SEP> 2,49 <SEP> 6,73 <SEP> 0,86 <SEP>
<tb> Rétinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> 9,01 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 4,24 <SEP> 20 <SEP> 5,43 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2,99 <SEP> -19
<tb> <tb> Products <SEP> tested <SEP> MMP-1 <SEP> to <SEP> D2 <SEP> Activity <SEP> MMP-1 <SEP> to <SEP> D5 <SEP> Activity
<tb> (ng / <SEP> 1000 <SEP> / control <SEP> (ng / 1000 <SEP> / control
<tb> to <SEP> D2 <SEP> cells) <SEP> to <SEP> D5
<tb> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Control <SEP> ~~ <SEP> 7.53 <SEP> 2.49 <SEP> 6.73 <SEP> 0.86 <SEP>
<tb> Retinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> 9.01 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 4.24 <SEP> 20 <SEP> 5.43 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2.99 <SEP> -19
<Tb>
Rétinol 10-5% 7,73 3,70 3 1,07 0,95 -84
Retinol 10-5% 7.73 3.70 3 1.07 0.95 -84
<tb> 0-Sitostérol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 4,92 <SEP> 1,49 <SEP> -35 <SEP> 3,46 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1,38 <SEP> -49
<tb> P-sitostérol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 6,05+ <SEP> 1,31 <SEP> -20 <SEP> 5,31 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1,82 <SEP> -21
<tb> <tb> 0-Sitosterol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 4.92 <SEP> 1.49 <SEP> -35 <SEP> 3.46 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1.38 <SEP> - 49
<tb> P-sitosterol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP>6.05><SE> 1.31 <SEP> -20 <SEP> 5.31 <SEP> ~ <SE> 1.82 <SEP> -21
<Tb>
-sitostérol 5x10-3% 5,43 0,97 -28 8,14 1,93 21 rétinol 10-6% + p-sitostérol 10-4% 5,91 2,16 -21 3,25 + 0,08 52 rétinol 10-6% + (3-sitostérol 10-3% 3,92 0,13 -48 6,55 4,21 2 rétinol 10-6% + p-sitostérol 5x10-3% 7,39 1,05 -2 9,79 3,32 45 rétinol 10-5% + p-sitostérol 10-4% 8,34 1,59 11 3,14 2,63 -53
-sitosterol 5x10-3% 5,43 0,97 -28 8,14 1,93 21 retinol 10-6% + p-sitosterol 10-4% 5,91 2,16 -21 3,25 + 0,08 52 retinol 10-6% + (3-sitosterol 10-3% 3.92 0.13 -48 6.55 4.21 2 retinol 10-6% + p-sitosterol 5x10-3% 7.39 1.05 -2 9.79 3.32 45 retinol 10-5% + p-sitosterol 10-4% 8.34 1.59 11 3.14 2.63 -53
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitostérol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 7,31+2,36 <SEP> -3 <SEP> 0,95+0,14 <SEP> -86 <SEP>
<tb> <tb> retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitosterol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 7.31 + 2.36 <SEP> -3 <SEP> 0.95+ 0.14 <SEP> -86 <SEP>
<Tb>
rétinol 10-5% + (3-sitostérol 5x10-3% 6,61 2,30 -12 4,68 1,18 -30
retinol 10-5% + (3-sitosterol 5x10-3% 6.61 2.30 -12 4.68 1.18 -30
<Desc/Clms Page number 13><Desc / Clms Page number 13>
TABLEAU 3
TABLE 3
<tb> Produits <SEP> testés <SEP> MMP-3 <SEP> à <SEP> D2 <SEP> Activité <SEP> MMP-3 <SEP> à <SEP> D5 <SEP> Activité
<tb> (ng/ <SEP> 1000 <SEP> /témoin <SEP> (ng/ <SEP> 1000 <SEP> /témoin
<tb> à <SEP> D2 <SEP> cellules) <SEP> à <SEP> D5 <SEP>
<tb> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Témoin <SEP> 8,08 <SEP> 0,61 <SEP> 6,36 <SEP> 2,72 <SEP>
<tb> <tb> Products <SEP> tested <SEP> MMP-3 <SEP> to <SEP> D2 <SEP> Activity <SEP> MMP-3 <SEP> to <SEP> D5 <SEP> Activity
<tb> (ng / <SEP> 1000 <SEP> / control <SEP> (ng / <SEP> 1000 <SEP> / control
<tb> to <SEP> D2 <SEP> cells <SEP> to <SEP> D5 <SEP>
<tb> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Control <SEP> 8.08 <SEP> 0.61 <SEP> 6.36 <SE> 2.72 <SEP>
<Tb>
Rétinol 10-6% 7,31 0,63 -10 2,59 0,69 -59 Rétinol 10-S% 6,71 0,31 -17 1,38 0,41 -78 p-sitostérol 10-4% 7,72 0,50 -4 2,36 0,34 -63 )3-sitostérol 10-3% 7,68 0,35 -5 2,34 + 0,44 -63 i-sitostérol 5x10-3% 7,05 0,58 -13 3,39 1,23 I-47 rétinol 10-6% + 3-sitostérol 10-4% 7,41 0,23 -8 5,14 2,17 I -19 rétinol 10-6% + (3-sitostérol 10-3% 6,82 0,44 -16 2,89 0,75 -55 rétinol 10-6% + 0-sitostérol 5x 10-3% 7,29 0,89 -10 2,98 0,46 -53
Retinol 10-6% 7.31 0.63 -10 2.59 0.69 -59 Retinol 10-S% 6.71 0.31 -17 1.38 0.41 -78 p-sitosterol 10-4% 7 , 72 0.50 -4 2.36 0.34 -63) 3-sitosterol 10-3% 7.68 0.35 -5 2.34 + 0.44 -63 i-sitosterol 5x10-3% 7.05 0.58 -13 3.39 1.23 I-47 retinol 10-6% + 3-sitosterol 10-4% 7.41 0.23 -8 5.14 2.17 I -19 retinol 10-6% + (3-sitosterol 10-3% 6.82 0.44 -16 2.89 0.75 -55 retinol 10-6% + 0-sitosterol 5x 10-3% 7.29 0.89 -10 2.98 0 , 46-53
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> (3-sitostérol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 6,57 <SEP> 0,58 <SEP> -19 <SEP> 2,56 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0,91 <SEP> -60
<tb> retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> (3-sitosterol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 6.57 <SEP> 0.58 <SEP> -19 <SEP> 2 , 56 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 0.91 <SEP> -60
<Tb>
rétinol 10-5% + p-sitostérol 10-3% 7,42 0,84 -8 1,65 0,23 -74 rétinol 10-5% + P-sitostérol SxlO-3% 7,59 1,15 -6 2,97 0,42 -53
retinol 10-5% + p-sitosterol 10-3% 7.42 0.84 -8 1.65 0.23 -74 retinol 10-5% + P-sitosterol Sx10 -3% 7.59 1.15 -6 2.97 0.42-53
<Desc/Clms Page number 14> <Desc / Clms Page number 14>
<tb> Produits <SEP> testés <SEP> Nombre <SEP> de <SEP> Activité <SEP> Nombre <SEP> de <SEP> Activité
<tb> cellules <SEP> D2 <SEP> /témoin <SEP> cellules <SEP> à <SEP> D5 <SEP> /témoin
<tb> à <SEP> D2 <SEP> à <SEP> D5 <SEP>
<tb> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Témoin <SEP> 69883 <SEP> 1772 <SEP> 67698 <SEP> + <SEP> 2487 <SEP>
<tb> Rétinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> 70440 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1370 <SEP> 1 <SEP> 66363 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 3390 <SEP> -2
<tb> Rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> 70117 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2357 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 69260 <SEP> + <SEP> 514 <SEP> 2 <SEP>
<tb> (3-sitostérol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 69763 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2406 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 69137 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1965 <SEP> 2
<tb> (3-sitostérol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 71430 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 903 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 70547 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1982 <SEP> 4
<tb> <tb> Products <SEP> tested <SEP> Number <SEP> of <SEP> Activity <SEP> Number <SEP> of <SEP> Activity
<tb> cells <SEP> D2 <SEP> / control <SEP> cells <SEP> to <SEP> D5 <SEP> / control
<tb> to <SEP> D2 <SEP> to <SEP> D5 <SEP>
<tb> (%) <SEP> (%)
<tb> Control <SEP> 69883 <SEQ> 1772 <SEP> 67698 <SEP> + <SEP> 2487 <SEP>
<tb> Retinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> 70440 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1370 <SEP> 1 <SEP> 66363 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 3390 <SEP> -2
<tb> Retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> 70117 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2357 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 69260 <SEP> + <SEP> 514 <SEP> 2 <SEP>
<tb> (3-sitosterol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 69763 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2406 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 69137 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1965 <SEP> 2
<tb> (3-sitosterol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 71430 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 903 <SEP> 2 <SEP> 70547 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1982 <SEP> 4
<Tb>
(i-sitostérol 5x 10-3% 76623 1721 10 72337 + 1464 7
(i-sitosterol 5x 10-3% 76623 1721 10 72337 + 1464 7
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitostérol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 69997 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 3979 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 67677 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 100 <SEP> 0
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> + <SEP> (3-sitostérol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 72503 <SEP> 2006 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 68977 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2428 <SEP> 2
<tb> <tb> retinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitosterol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 69997 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 3979 <SEP> 0 <SEP> 67677 <SEP > ~ <SEP> 100 <SEP> 0
<tb> retinol <SEP> 10-6% <SEP> + <SEP> (3-sitosterol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 72503 <SEP> 2006 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 68977 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 2428 <SEP> 2
<Tb>
rétinol 10-6% + p-sitostérol 5x 10-3% 68560 2923 -2 69647 + g4g 3
retinol 10-6% + p-sitosterol 5x 10-3% 68560 2923 -2 69647 + g4g 3
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitostérol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 69473 <SEP> +3731 <SEP> -1 <SEP> 66533 <SEP> +2888 <SEP> -2 <SEP>
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> p-sitostérol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 69443 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 992 <SEP> -1 <SEP> 68847 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 650 <SEP> 2
<tb> rétinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitostérol <SEP> 5x10-3% <SEP> 72563 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1227 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 69497 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 812 <SEP> 3
<tb> <tb> retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitosterol <SEP> 10-4% <SEP> 69473 <SEP> +3731 <SEP> -1 <SEP> 66533 <SEP> + 2888 <SEP> -2 <SEP>
<tb> retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> p-sitosterol <SEP> 10-3% <SEP> 69443 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 992 <SEP> -1 <SEP> 68847 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 650 <SEP> 2
<tb> retinol <SEP> 10-5% <SEP> + <SEP> 0-sitosterol <SEP> 5x10-3% <SEP> 72563 <SEP> ~ <SEP> 1227 <SEP> 4 <SEP> 69497 <SEP > ~ <SEP> 812 <SEP> 3
<Tb>
<Desc/Clms Page number 15><Desc / Clms Page number 15>
Exemple 2 : Composition anti-âge sous forme d'une émulsion Huile / Eau. Example 2 Anti-Aging Composition in the Form of an Oil / Water Emulsion
% - Glycérine 5,000 - EDTA disodique 0,200 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle 0,200 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de propyle 0,070 - 2-phenoxyéthanol 0,730 - Eau q.s.p. % - Glycerin 5,000 - disodium EDTA 0.200 - methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate Propyl 0.200 - 4-hydroxybenzoate 0.070 - 2-phenoxyethanol 0.730 - Water q.s.
- Polyacrylamide et C 13-14 isoparaffine et 2,000 laureth-7, tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination "Sepigel 305" par la société SEPPIC - Diméthicone 2,000 - Alcool cétéarylique 0,500 - Cyclométhicone 1,500 - Palmitate d'isopropyle 2,000 - BHT 0,100 - Citrate de tri (C14-C15) alkyle 4,000 - Alcool 90 6,000 - Polyisobutène hydrogéné 4,000 - Butylène glycol 2,000 - Acide stéarique 1,000 - Hydroxyde de sodium 0,100 - Rétinol 0,300 - P-sitostérol 0,500 Total 100 % Polyacrylamide and C 13-14 isoparaffin and 2,000 laureth-7, as sold under the name "Sepigel 305" by the company SEPPIC - Dimethicone 2,000 - Cetyl alcohol 0.500 - Cyclomethicone 1,500 - Isopropyl palmitate 2,000 - BHT 0.100 - Citrate tri (C14-C15) alkyl 4,000 - alcohol 90 6,000 - hydrogenated polyisobutene 4,000 - butylene glycol 2,000 - stearic acid 1,000 - sodium hydroxide 0,100 - retinol 0,300 - P-sitosterol 0,500 total 100%
<Desc/Clms Page number 16><Desc / Clms Page number 16>
Exemple 3 : Composition anti-âge sous forme d'une émulsion Huile / Eau. Example 3: Anti-aging composition in the form of an oil / water emulsion.
% - Eau q. s. p. % - Water q. s. p.
- Carbomcr "Carbopol 980" tel que commercialisé 0,300 par la société Goodrich - Glycérine 5,000 - PEG 8 2,000 - EDTA disodique 0,200 - Hydroxyde de sodium 0,135 - Stéarate de glycéryle/Peg 100 stéarate tel que 5,000 commercialisé sous la dénomination "Alarcel 165" par la société ICI - Octanoate de cétéaryle/myristate d'isopropyle 3,000 tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination "Dub liquide" par la société STEARINERIE DUBOIS - Stéarate de glycérylc 3,000 - Alcool stéarylique 0,500 - Alcool cétostéaryliquc 0,500 - Palmitate de cétyle 0,500 - Talc 0,200 - BHT 0,100 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle 0,160 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de propyle 0,056 - 2-phenoxyéthanol 0,584 - Benzoate d'alkyle C12-15 4,000 - Diméthicone 1,000 - Rétinol 0,092 - (3-sitostérol 0,150 Total 100 % - Carbomcr "Carbopol 980" as marketed 0.300 by the company Goodrich - Glycerin 5,000 - PEG 8 2,000 - Disodium EDTA 0,200 - Sodium hydroxide 0,135 - Glyceryl stearate / Peg 100 stearate such as 5,000 marketed under the name "Alarcel 165" by the company ICI - cetearyl octanoate / isopropyl myristate 3,000 as marketed under the name "Liquid Dub" by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS - Glyceryl stearate 3,000 - Stearyl alcohol 0.500 - Cetostearyl alcohol 0.500 - Cetyl palmitate 0.500 - Talc 0.200 - BHT 0.100 - methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate 0.160 - propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate 0.056 - 2-phenoxyethanol 0.584 - C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4,000 - Dimethicone 1,000 - Retinol 0,092 - (3-sitosterol 0.150 Total 100%
<Desc/Clms Page number 17><Desc / Clms Page number 17>
Exemple 4 : Composition selon l'invention sous forme d'un gel. Example 4 Composition according to the invention in the form of a gel.
% - Glycérine 5,000 - EDTA disodique 0,200 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle 0,200 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de propyle 0,070 - 2-phenoxyéthanol 0,730 - Eau q. s. p. % - Glycerin 5,000 - Disodium EDTA 0,200 - methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate Propyl 0,200 - 4-hydroxybenzoate 0,070 - 2-phenoxyethanol 0,730 - Water q. s. p.
- Polyacrylamide et C13-14 isoparaffine et 2,000 laureth-7, tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination "Sepigel 305" par la société SEPPIC - Diméthicone 2,000 - Alcool cétéarylique 0,500 - Cyclométhicone 1,500 - Palmitate d'isopropyle 2,000 - BHT 0,100 - Citrate de tri (C14-15) alkyle 4,000 - Alcool 90 6,000 - Polyisobutène hydrogéné 4,000 - Butylène glycol 2,000 - Rétinol 0,300 - p-sitostérol 0,500 TOTAL 100 % Polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and 2,000 laureth-7, as sold under the name "Sepigel 305" by the company SEPPIC - Dimethicone 2,000 - Cetyl alcohol 0.500 - Cyclomethicone 1,500 - Isopropyl palmitate 2,000 - BHT 0,100 - Sorting citrate (C14-15) alkyl 4,000 - alcohol 90 6,000 - hydrogenated polyisobutene 4,000 - butylene glycol 2,000 - retinol 0,300 - p-sitosterol 0,500 TOTAL 100%
<Desc/Clms Page number 18><Desc / Clms Page number 18>
Exemple 5 : Compositionselon l'invention sous forme d'un lait (émulsion eau/huile). EXAMPLE 5 Compositions according to the invention in the form of a milk (water / oil emulsion)
% - Cyclométhicone 25,000 - Polyglycéryl-2-Sesquiisostéarate/cire d'abeille/ 12,000 huile minérale/stéarate de magnésium/ stéarate d'aluminium, tel que commercialisé sous la dénomination "Hostacerin WO" par la société
HOECHST - Phényl diméthicone 6,000 - Diméthicone 3,000 - Myristate d'isopropyle 3,500 - BHT 0,050 - Eau q.s.p. % - Cyclomethicone 25,000 - Polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate / beeswax / 12,000 mineral oil / magnesium stearate / aluminum stearate, as sold under the name "Hostacerin WO" by the company
HOECHST - Phenyl dimethicone 6,000 - Dimethicone 3,000 - Isopropyl myristate 3,500 - BHT 0,050 - Water qs
- Benzoate d'alkyle C12-15 3,000 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de méthyle 0,160 - 4-hydroxybenzoate de propyle 0,056 - 2-phenoxyéthanol 0,584 - p-sitostérol 0,500 - Disodium EDTA 0,100 - Rétinol 0,040 TOTAL 100%- C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3,000 - methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate propionyl 0,160 - 4-hydroxybenzoate 0,056 - 2-phenoxyethanol 0,584 - p-sitosterol 0,500 - Disodium EDTA 0,100 - Retinol 0,040 TOTAL 100%
Claims (14)
Priority Applications (6)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9811080A FR2782919B1 (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1998-09-04 | COMPOSITION AGAINST AGING AND ITS USE |
EP99402170A EP1000613A3 (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1999-09-01 | Composition against the ageing and its use |
JP11248841A JP2000086489A (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1999-09-02 | Composition against aging and its use |
KR1019990037092A KR20000022870A (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1999-09-02 | Composition against the ageing and its use |
CA002281425A CA2281425A1 (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1999-09-03 | Composition against the ageing and its use |
BR9904154-5A BR9904154A (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1999-09-03 | Composition to combat aging and its use |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9811080A FR2782919B1 (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1998-09-04 | COMPOSITION AGAINST AGING AND ITS USE |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
FR2782919A1 true FR2782919A1 (en) | 2000-03-10 |
FR2782919B1 FR2782919B1 (en) | 2001-05-25 |
Family
ID=9530131
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
FR9811080A Expired - Fee Related FR2782919B1 (en) | 1998-09-04 | 1998-09-04 | COMPOSITION AGAINST AGING AND ITS USE |
Country Status (6)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1000613A3 (en) |
JP (1) | JP2000086489A (en) |
KR (1) | KR20000022870A (en) |
BR (1) | BR9904154A (en) |
CA (1) | CA2281425A1 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2782919B1 (en) |
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WO2002034233A2 (en) * | 2000-10-26 | 2002-05-02 | L'oreal | Use of an association of a carotenoid and of an isoflavonoid for treating cutaneous symptoms of ageing |
FR2815861A1 (en) * | 2000-10-26 | 2002-05-03 | Oreal | USE OF THE COMBINATION OF AT LEAST ONE CAROTENOID AND AT LEAST ONE ISOFLAVONOID FOR TREATING SKIN SIGNS OF AGING |
WO2002034233A3 (en) * | 2000-10-26 | 2002-08-29 | Oreal | Use of an association of a carotenoid and of an isoflavonoid for treating cutaneous symptoms of ageing |
EP1234572A1 (en) | 2001-02-26 | 2002-08-28 | Mibelle AG Cosmetics | Skin treatment compositions containing isoflavone aglycones |
DE102005051889A1 (en) * | 2005-10-29 | 2007-05-03 | Apotheker Walter Bouhon Gmbh | Cosmetic or dermatological preparation for protection against photoaging |
ES2378028A1 (en) * | 2012-02-22 | 2012-04-04 | Ignacio Umbert Millet | Cosmetic composition for rejuvenating the skin and corresponding method and uses |
WO2015082520A1 (en) * | 2013-12-03 | 2015-06-11 | Galephar M/F | Composition for reducing skin ageing disorders, comprising a retinaldehyde and a leontopodium alpinum extract |
RU2675702C1 (en) * | 2013-12-03 | 2018-12-24 | Гальфар М/Ф | Composition for reducing skin ageing disorders, comprising retinaldehyde and leontopodium alpinum extract |
FR3085839A1 (en) * | 2018-09-13 | 2020-03-20 | Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas | USE OF PHYTOSTEROLS |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JP2000086489A (en) | 2000-03-28 |
FR2782919B1 (en) | 2001-05-25 |
EP1000613A2 (en) | 2000-05-17 |
EP1000613A3 (en) | 2000-06-21 |
CA2281425A1 (en) | 2000-03-04 |
BR9904154A (en) | 2000-09-26 |
KR20000022870A (en) | 2000-04-25 |
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