FR2778844A1 - Cosmetic compositions for softening keratinous materials - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises at least a silicone and at least an amphoteric surfactant such as alkyl poly (carboxyalkyl alkylamine) in a cosmetically acceptable medium. Independent claims are also included for use of said composition in washing and treating keratinous materials such as hair, and method for carrying out said treatment.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING A SURFACTANT

  AMPHOTERIC AND SILICONE AND USES THEREOF.

  The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one surfactant

  amphoteric polycarboxylated polyamine type and at least one silicone.

  It is well known that hair which has been sensitized (ie damaged and / or weakened) to varying degrees under the action of atmospheric agents or under the action of mechanical or chemical treatments, such as coloring, bleaching and / or perms, are often difficult to disentangle and

style, and lack sweetness.

  Also, to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly of those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (ie hair which is damaged or weakened in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or hair treatments such as perms, dyes or discoloration), it is now customary to introduce into the latter complementary cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the various treatments or aggressions which undergo , more or less repeatedly, the hair fibers. These conditioning agents can of course also improve

  the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.

  The conditioning agents most commonly used to date in shampoos are cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which in effect give washed, dry or wet hair, ease of disentangling, increased softness and smoothness. compared to what can be obtained with the corresponding cleaning compositions which are free thereof.

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  However, in the case of very sensitized hair, the hair washed with a shampoo containing silicones is straight, that is to say lack of

flexibility or malleability.

  The object of the invention is therefore to propose cosmetic compositions having improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of

hair flexibility.

  The Applicant has now found that an amphoteric surfactant of the type

  polycarboxylated polyamine made it possible to achieve these goals.

  The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one

  silicone and at least one amphoteric surfactant of the polycarboxylated polyamine type.

  Another subject of the invention relates to a process for treating keratinous materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying

  on said materials, cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

  The various objects of the invention will now be detailed. All the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention

  given below are valid for all the objects of the invention.

  Amphoteric surfactants of polycarboxylated polyamine type can have the following structure: CH2 -COOM l CH -COOM

R- N-CH-CH-CH2- N (

n CH-COOM in which:

  R denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6- hydrocarbon radical

  C30 and preferably an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated in

C8-C22 or mixtures thereof.

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  Even more particularly, R denotes an oleyl radical or a mixture of

  C8-C18 radicals derived from tallow or copra.

  n can vary from 2 to 10, and preferably from 2 to 5.

  M denotes an inorganic or organic cation such as: a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal (for example Na +, K +), NH4 +, the ammoniums comprising a residue chosen from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine , ornithine, citrulline or alternatively among amino alcohols such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine,

  triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methyl glucamine, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol.

  Among the products of formula (I), there may be mentioned the products marketed under the name AMPHOLAK by the company AKZO and in particular AMPHOLAK

  7CX / C for which R denotes a radical derived from copra and n is equal to 2.

  According to the invention, the amphoteric surfactant of polycarboxylated polyamine type can represent from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, and even more preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight. relative to weight

total of the final composition.

  The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in water or in the final composition. They can be volatile

or non-volatile.

  The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polyorganosiloxanes which are insoluble in the composition and can be present in

  in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

  Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter NOLL's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie Press. They

  can be volatile or non-volatile.

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  When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name of "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE) 70045 V 2" by RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHONE

POULENC, as well as their mixtures.

  Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylakylsiloxane type, such as "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109" sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, with a chemical structure: rD-D 'D-D

CH3 D-D 'D-D CH3

withD: - i O- with D ': - i-0-

CH3 C8H17

  Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and

  mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '(hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-

  trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6m2 / s at 25 C. This is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH" by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol.

  91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

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  Preferably non-volatile silicones are used and more particularly (i) polyalkylsiloxanes; (ii) polyarylsiloxanes (iii) polyalkylarylsiloxanes (iv) silicone gums; (v) silicone resins; (vi) polyorganosiloxanes, comprising in their general structure, one or more organofunctional groups directly attached to the siloxane chain or attached via a hydrocarbon radical; (vii) block copolymers having a linear polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene block as repeating units; (viii) grafted silicone polymers, with non-silicone organic skeleton, consisting of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers not containing silicone, on which is grafted, inside said chain as well as possibly at least at one of its ends, at least one polysiloxane macromonomer; (ix) grafted silicone polymers, with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, comprising a main polysiloxane chain on which is grafted, inside said chain as well as possibly at least one of its ends, at least one organic macromonomer not containing silicone;

(x) or their mixtures.

  Among the polyalkylsiloxanes, there may be mentioned mainly: -linear polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as for example, and without limitation, SILBIONE oils (from the 70047 series marketed by RHONE POULENC, SILBIONE oil) 47 V 500 000 from RHONE POULENC or certain VISCASIL from GENERAL ELECTRIC - linear polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl end groups such as oils from the 48 V series from RHONE

POULENC.

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  In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the polyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names

  ABILWAX 9800 and ABILWAX 9801 which are polyalkyl (Ci-

  C20) siloxanes. Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes or polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, linear or branched, such as the product DC 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID from

DOW CORNING.

  The silicone gums, in accordance with the invention, are polyorganosiloxanes of number average molecular mass of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from

  volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), poly-

  phenylmethylsiloxanes (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes,

  methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.

  The following compounds are cited, for example: - polydimethylsiloxane, poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)], poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane)], poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (phenylmethylsiloxane)], poly [(dimethylsiloxane) ) / (diphenylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)], Mention may be made, for example, of the following mixtures: 1) mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the chain end (DIMETHICONOL according to the CTFA nomenclature) and a polydimethylsiloxane cyclic (CYCLOMETHICONE according to the CTFA nomenclature) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company DOW CORNING;

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  2) mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 SILICONE FLUID from GENERAL ELECTRIC which is an SE 30 gum of molecular weight 500,000 solubilized in SF 1202 SILICONE FLUID (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane); 3) mixtures of two polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of different viscosity, in particular of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil such as the products SF 1236 and CF 1241 from GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an oil SE 30 defined above of viscosity 20 m2 / s and an oil SF 96 of viscosity 5.10-5m2 / s (15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of oil SF 96). The product CF 1241 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum (33%) and a PDMS (67%)

viscosity 10-3 m2 / s.

  The silicone resins in accordance with the invention are preferably crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R2SiO2 / 2, RSiO3 / 2, SiO4 / 2, in which R denotes a hydrocarbon group having I to 6 carbon atoms or a phenyl group .Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those where R denotes an alkyl radical.

lower or phenyl.

  Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name DOW CORNING 593 by DOW CORNING or those sold under the name SILICONE FLUID SS 4267 by GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are dimethyl / trimethypolylsiloxanes. The organomodified polyorganosiloxanes of the invention are polysiloxanes as defined above, comprising in their general structure, one or more organofunctional groups directly attached to the chain

  siloxane or fixed via a hydrocarbon radical.

  Mention is made, for example, of polysiloxanes comprising:

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  a) polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups, optionally comprising alkyl groups, such as the product called lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Q2 5200 by DOW CORNING; b) (per) fluorinated groups, such as trifluoroalkyl groups such as, for example, those sold by SHIN ETSU under the name FL 100; c) thiol groups; d) carboxylate groups, such as the products described in European patent EP 185 507 from CHISSO CORPORATION; e) hydroxylated groups, such as the polyorganopolysiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function described in French patent application FR 85-16334 and in particular the polyorganopolysiloxanes with a y-hydroxypropyl function; f) alkoxylated groups containing at least 12 carbon atoms, such as the product SILICONE COPOLYMER F755 from SWS SILICONES and the products ABILWAX 2428, ABILWAX) 2434, ABILWAX 2440 from the company

GOLDSCHMIDT.

  g) acyloxyalkyl groups containing at least 12 carbon atoms, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR

  88-17433 and in particular the polyorganosiloxanes having a stearoyloxypropyl function.

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups.

  j) hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP 342 834. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from

DOW CORNING.

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  k) amino groups substituted or not, such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 or 939 by the company DOW CORNING. The substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; Use is more particularly made of the silicones called amodimethicone and trimethylsilylamodimethicone according to the name CTFA; The block copolymers having a linear polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene block as repeating units used in the context of the present invention preferably have the following general formula: ([Y (R2SiO) a R'2SiYO] [(CnH2nO) b]) c (V ) in which: - R and R ', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical not containing aliphatic unsaturation, - n is an integer ranging from 2 to 4, - a is an integer greater than or equal to 5 , preferably between 5 and

  and even more particularly between 5 and 100.

  - b is an integer greater than or equal to 4, preferably between 4 and

  200 and even more particularly between 5 and 100.

  - c is an integer greater than or equal to 4, preferably between 4 and

  1000 and even more particularly between 5 and 300.

  -Y represents a divalent organic group which is linked to the adjacent silicon atom by a carbon-silicon bond and to a polyoxyalkylene block by an oxygen atom, - the average molecular weight of each siloxane block is between approximately 400 and approximately 10,000, that of each polyoxyalkylene block being between approximately 300 and approximately 10,000, the siloxane blocks represent from approximately 10% to approximately 95% by weight of the block copolymer,

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  the average molecular weight by weight of the block copolymer being at least 3,000 and preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 and even more particularly

between 10,000 and 200,000.

  R and R ′ are preferably chosen from the group comprising alkyl radicals such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl radicals, aryl radicals such as, for example phenyl, naphthyl, aralkyl radicals such as benzyl, phenylethyl,

  tolyl, xylyl and cyclohexyl radicals.

  Y is preferably -R "-, -R" -CO-, -R "-NHCO-, -R" -NH-CO-NH-R "'- NHCO, -R" OCONH-R "' - NHCO- , where R "is a divalent alkylene group such as, for example, ethylene, propylene or butylene and R" 'is an alkylene group

  divalent or a divalent arylene group such as -C6H4-, -C6H4-C6H4-, -C6H4CH2-

C6H4-, -C6H4-C (CH3) 2-C6H4-.

  Even more preferably, Y represents a divalent alkylene radical, more

  particularly the radical -CH2-CH2-CH2- or the radical C4H8.

  The preparation of the block copolymers used in the context of the present invention is described in European application EP 0 492 657 A1,

  whose teaching is included for reference in the present description.

  The polymers with a non-silicone organic skeleton grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, in accordance with the invention, are more preferably chosen from those described in US patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037 and patent applications EP-A -0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578 whose lessons are

  fully included in this description for reference not

  limiting. They are copolymers obtained by radical polymerization from ethylenically unsaturated monomers and silicone macromers having a terminal vinyl group or else copolymers obtained by reaction of a polyolefin comprising functionalized groups and of a macromer il 2778844 polysiloxane having a reactive terminal function with said functionalized groups. Examples of polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers suitable for the implementation of the present invention, as well as their particular mode of preparation, are in particular described in patent applications EP-A-0 582 152, WO 93/23009 and WO 95/03776, the lessons of which are fully included

  in the present description by way of non-limiting references.

  According to the invention, all the silicones can also be used in the form

emulsions or microemulsions.

  The silicones which are particularly preferred in accordance with the invention are: - the non-volatile silicones chosen from the family of polyalkylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m2 / s at 25 C such as the oils of the DC200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular that of viscosity 60,000 Cst, of the SILBIONE 70047 and 47 series and more particularly the oil 70,047 V 500,000 sold by the company RHONE POULENC, polyalkylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups such as dimethiconol or polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as the oil SILBIONE 70641 V 200 sold by the company RHONE POULENC; - mixtures of organopolysiloxanes and cyclic silicones such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company DOW CORNINGI and the product SF 1214 sold by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; - mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, in particular of a gum and an oil such as the product SF 1236 sold by the company GENERAL

ELECTRIC;

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  - the organopolysiloxane resin sold under the name Dow

CORNING 593;

  - polysiloxane containing amino groups such as amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone; According to the invention, the silicone (s) may represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the composition

final.

  The compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one other surfactant which is generally present in an amount of between 0.1% and 60% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 40% and even more preferably between 5 % and 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition. This surfactant can be chosen from anionic surfactants,

  amphoteric, non-ionic, cationic or mixtures thereof.

  The additional surfactants which are suitable for carrying out the present invention are in particular the following (i) Anionic surfactant (s): Their nature does not, in the context of the present invention, have character

genuinely critical.

  Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; the

  alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-

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  olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl etherphosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C6-C24) ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C6-C24) aryl ether acids, acids (C6-C24) alkyl amido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those

  comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.

  Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts

  of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof.

  (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s): The nonionic surfactants are also well known compounds

  per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R.

  PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups which may range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which may range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides

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  preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; esters of oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acids having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl oxides (C10 - C14) amines or oxides of N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants entering

  particularly well in the context of the present invention.

  (iii) Amphoteric Surfactant (s): The additional amphoteric surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, can in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of secondary amines or aliphatic tertiary groups, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20) alkyl (C1-C6) amidoalkyl betaines or (C8-C20) alkyls

  amidoalkyl (C1-C6) sulfobetaines.

  Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name Miranol, as described in patents US-2,528,378 and US-2,781,354 and of structures:

  R2 -CONHCH2CH2 -N (R3) (R4) (CH2COO-) (2)

  in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical derived from an R2-COOH acid present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 denotes a carboxymethyl group and

R5-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) (3)

in which:

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  B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y' denotes COOH or the radical -CH2 - CHOH - SO3H R5 denotes an alkyl radical of an acid Rg -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular C7, Cg, C11 or

  C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical.

  These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under

  the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroampho-

  diacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium

  Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroampho-

  dipropionic acid, Cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by the company RHONE

POULENC.

  In the compositions in accordance with the invention, mixtures of surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants are preferably used. A particularly preferred mixture is a mixture consisting of at least one anionic surfactant and

  at least one amphoteric surfactant.

  An anionic surfactant chosen from alkyl (C12-

  C14) sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium sulfates, alkyls (C12-

  C14) sodium ethersulfates, triethanolamine or ammonium oxyethylenated with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium alphaolefin (Cl4-Cl6) sulfonate and their mixture with: - either a amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives called disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate marketed in particular by the company RHONE POULENC under the

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  trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in an aqueous solution at 38% active material or under the name MIRANOL C32; - Or an amphoteric surfactant such as alkylbetaines in particular cocobetaine marketed under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" in aqueous solution at 32% of MA by the company HENKEL or such as alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6 ) betaines in particular TEGOBETAINE = F 50

  marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

  It is also possible to use cationic surfactants among which there may be mentioned in particular (non-limiting list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as chlorides or bromides of tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium;

  imidazoline derivatives; or cationic amine oxides.

  The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, surfactants, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sunscreens, cationic surfactants, anionic or nonionic or cationic polymers or amphoteric, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched C16-C40 chains such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vitamins , vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the stability and

  the properties of the compositions according to the invention.

  These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions which can range from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise quantity of each additive is easily determined by

  the skilled person according to his nature and his function.

  The cosmetically acceptable medium can consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a

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  lower C1-C4 alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-

  butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.

  Preferably, the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water per

  relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The detergent compositions according to the invention have a final pH generally between 3 and 10. Preferably, this pH is between 4 and 8. The adjustment of the pH to the desired value can be carried out conventionally by adding a base ( organic or mineral) in the composition, for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly) amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propane diamine, or by addition an acid, preferably an acid

  carboxylic such as for example citric acid.

  The compositions in accordance with the invention may contain, in addition to the combination defined above, viscosity regulating agents such as electrolytes, or thickening agents. Mention may in particular be made of sodium chloride, sodium xylene sulfonate, scleroglucans, xanthan gums, fatty acid alkanolamides, alkyl ether carboxylic acid alkanolamides optionally oxyethylenated with up to 5 moles of oxide ethylene such as the product sold under the name "AMINOL A15" by the company CHEM Y, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and acrylic acid / crosslinked C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymers. These viscosity regulating agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in proportions which can range up to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions in accordance with the invention can also contain up to 5% of pearlescent or opacifying agents well known in the state of the art such as for example sodium or magnesium palmitates, sodium stearates and hydroxystearates or magnesium, fatty chain acylated derivatives such as ethylene glycol monostearates or distearates

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  polyethylene glycol, fatty chain ethers such as for example

  distearyl ether or 1- (hexadecyloxy) -2-octadecanol.

  The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise one or more cationic polymers. The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611,

2,470,596 and 2,519,863.

  Even more generally, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression “cationic polymer” designates any polymer containing groups

  cationic and / or ionizable groups into cationic groups.

  Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and of acrylamide in particular chlorides, sold under the names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550" and "MERQUAT S" by the company MERCK, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride marketed for example under the name "JAGUAR C13S" by

MEYHALL company.

  According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.

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  The compositions according to the invention may also contain foam synergists such as C10-C18 1,2-alkanediols or fatty alkanolamides

  derivatives of mono or diethanolamine.

  The compositions in accordance with the invention can be used for washing or treating keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly the hair. In particular, the compositions according to the invention are detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions

  include a washing base, usually aqueous.

  The surfactant (s) forming the washing base can be chosen either, alone or as a mixture, from anionic, amphoteric surfactants,

  nonionic and cationic as defined above.

  The quantity and the quality of the washing base are sufficient to give

  the final composition has a satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.

  Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can represent from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 10% to 35% by weight, and even more preferably from

  12% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.

  The subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a cosmetic composition such as

  previously defined, then optionally rinse with water.

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  Thus, this method according to the invention allows the hairstyle to be maintained, the treatment, the care, the washing or the make-up removal of the skin, the hair or any other

keratinous matter.

  The compositions of the invention can also be in the form of conditioner to rinse off or not, of compositions for perm, straightening, coloring or discoloration, or also in the form of compositions to rinse, to be applied before or after coloring, discoloration, perm or straightening or between the two stages of a perm

or straightening.

  The compositions of the invention can also be in the form of washing compositions for the skin, and in particular in the form of solutions.

  or bath or shower gels or make-up removers.

  The compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotions, gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thickened lotion or foam and can be used for the skin, nails, eyelashes,

  the lips and more particularly the hair.

  In everything which follows or what precedes, the percentages expressed are by weight. The invention will now be more fully illustrated with the aid of the following examples which should not be considered as limiting it to the modes of

realization described.

  In the examples, MA means active material.

EXAMPLE 1

  Two shampoo compositions were produced, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative (composition B):

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A B

  Comparative Invention - Sodium Laurylethersulfate (C12 / C14 at 70/30) with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide 15.5 gMA 15.5 gMA (MA = active ingredient) Disodium cocoampho - 3.8 gMA diacetate (* ) - Sodium Carboxymethyl 3.8 gMA coconut polypropylamine (**) - Silicone (60,000 cSt) (***) 2.7 g 2.7 g Cationic guar gum (JAGUAR C13 S 0.2 g 0.2 g MEYHALL)

  - Mixture of cetyl alcohol 2.5 g 2.5 g and 1- (hexadecyloxy) -2-

  octadecanol - Monoisopropanolamide 0.9 g 0.9 g copra acids - Citric acid qs pH 5 5 - Demineralized water qs 100 g 100 g (*) MIRANOL C2M marketed by RHONE POULENC

CH-COOM RCO-NH-CH-CH2 N

2 2

CH2CH2OCH-COOM

  R denotes a mixture of C8-C18 alkyl radicals derived from coconut M represents Na (**): AMPHOLAK 7CX / C (AKZO) of the following formula:

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CH-COOM - CH-COOM

R N-CH-CH-CH2- N (1)

  n CH-COOM R denotes a mixture of C8-C18 alkyl radicals derived from coconut n is equal to 2 M represents Na (***): Polydimethylsiloxane of viscosity 60,000 cSt marketed by the company

  DOW CORNING under the name FLUID DC 200 - 60,000 cSt.

  Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 12 g of composition A to natural hair previously wet. We lather the shampoo

then rinse thoroughly with water.

  The procedure is the same as above with comparative composition B. A panel of experts assesses the suppleness of wet hair, the shine of

dry hair.

  The suppleness of wet hair and the shine of dried hair treated with composition A is greater than that of hair treated with

comparative composition B.

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Claims (11)

  1- Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one silicone and at least one polycarboxylated polyamine amphoteric surfactant. 2- Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polycarboxylated amphoteric polyamine surfactant has the following structure: -CH2-COOM CH2-COOM R -N-CH-CH-CH2-- N n CH-COOM 2   in which: R denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated in C6-C30, nvariede2à 10,   M denotes an inorganic or organic cation.   3- Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the radical R is an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated with C8-C22 or their mixtures,   M denotes a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal.   4- Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the radical R   is an oleyl radical, a tallow-derived radical or a copra-derived radical.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that the silicones are chosen from the group consisting of: (i) polyalkylsiloxanes; (ii) polyarylsiloxanes; 24 2778844   (iii) polyalkylarylsiloxanes; (iv) silicone gums; (v) silicone resins; (vi) polyorganosiloxanes, comprising in their general structure, one or more organofunctional groups directly attached to the siloxane chain or attached via a hydrocarbon radical; (vii) block copolymers having a linear polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylene block as repeating units; (viii) grafted silicone polymers, with non-silicone organic skeleton, consisting of an organic main chain formed from organic monomers not containing silicone, on which is grafted, inside said chain as well as possibly at least at one of its ends, at least one polysiloxane macromonomer; (ix) grafted silicone polymers, with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, comprising a main polysiloxane chain on which is grafted, inside said chain as well as possibly at least one of its ends, at least one organic macromonomer not containing silicone; (x) or their mixtures.   6- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that the polycarboxylated polyamine surfactant is present in the compositions at a concentration of between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 1 and 25% by weight and more particularly between 2.5 and 15% by weight   weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   7- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that the silicone is present at a concentration of between 0.001% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.005% and 5% by weight and in particular between 0.01% and 3% in weight. 2778844   8- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it further comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and their mixtures.   9- Compositions according to claim 8, characterized in that the surfactant (s) are present at a concentration of between 0.1% and% by weight, preferably between 3% and 40% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.   - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized by the fact that it also comprises at least one additive chosen from thickeners, surfactants, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sun filters, cationic surfactants, anionic or nonionic or cationic polymers or amphoteric, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched C16-C40 chains such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vitamins, the   vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic oils.   11- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic polymer.   12- Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized by the fact that it is in the form of a shampoo, according to   shampoo, of composition for perming, straightening, coloring or bleaching of hair, of rinsing composition to be applied between the two stages of a perm or of straightening, of washing compositions for body. 26 2778844   13- Use of a composition as defined in any one of   previous claims for washing keratin materials such as the hair.   14- Process for treating keratin materials, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials a composition   cosmetic according to one of claims 1 to 11.