EP1029535B1 - Cosmetic tensidic compositions containing anionic hydroxyalkylether surfactant and a silicone and their uses - Google Patents
Cosmetic tensidic compositions containing anionic hydroxyalkylether surfactant and a silicone and their uses Download PDFInfo
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- EP1029535B1 EP1029535B1 EP00400216A EP00400216A EP1029535B1 EP 1029535 B1 EP1029535 B1 EP 1029535B1 EP 00400216 A EP00400216 A EP 00400216A EP 00400216 A EP00400216 A EP 00400216A EP 1029535 B1 EP1029535 B1 EP 1029535B1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
Definitions
- the present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one anionic surfactant hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and at least one silicone.
- detergent compositions for cleaning and / or washing hair and / or skin, the use of detergent compositions (shampoo or shower gel) based essentially on agents conventional surfactants of the anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric type in particular, but more particularly of the anionic type, is common.
- These compositions are applied on wet hair or skin and the foam generated by massage or friction with hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of various soils initially present on hair or skin.
- compositions certainly have good washing power, but the properties intrinsic cosmetics attached to them, however, remain quite weak, in particular due to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such treatment of cleaning can lead in the long run to keratinous material more damage or less marked, linked in particular to the progressive elimination of lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface thereof.
- conditioning agents primarily intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the different treatments or assaults that they undergo, more or less repeated, hair fibers
- conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
- conditioning agents to date in shampoos are cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which give effect to washed, dry or wet hair, ease of detangling, softness and increased smoothness compared to what can be achieved with cleaning compositions which are exempt.
- anionic surfactants of the hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic type have already been recommended in detergent cosmetic compositions. They have been described by example in patent applications J63280798, J08268487 and J08269482.
- the invention therefore aims to provide detergent cosmetic compositions having improved cosmetic properties, in particular detangling, smoothing and the softness of the hair.
- compositions make it possible to better deposit these silicones on the materials keratin (especially hair) than a composition containing surfactants conventional anionics such as alkyl ethercarboxylate salts, this without visual appearance oily or touch oily.
- compositions in accordance with the invention give keratin materials especially the hair, a remarkable treating effect which manifests itself in particular by ease of disentangling, as well as a contribution of volume, lightness, smoothing, softness and flexibility and discipline without any feeling of charged touch.
- Another subject of the invention relates to a process for treating materials keratin, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
- composition according to the invention for the detangling, straightening the hair, to bring volume, lightness, softness, flexibility and discipline to the hair.
- the invention also relates to the use of surfactants of the hydroxy-2 alkyl ether type.
- keratin materials by keratin materials, one understands the hair, the eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp and more especially the hair.
- Preferred 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acids according to the present invention are compounds of formula (I) in which R 1 more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
- R 1 denotes a radical or a mixture of C 8 -C 18 radicals in particular derived from copra.
- surfactants of formula (I) mention may be made of the product sold under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA by the company SANYO.
- the anionic surfactant of the hydroxy-2 alkyl ether carboxylic type can represent from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
- the silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in water or in the final composition. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
- the silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular insoluble in water and can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
- Silicones are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL's book “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones”(1968) Academic Press.
- polyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names ABILWAX® 9800 and ABILWAX® 9801 which are polyalkyl (C 1 -C 20 ) siloxanes.
- the polyalkylsiloxanes preferably have a viscosity greater than or equal to 500 cSt. (5 cm 2 / s).
- the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
- polyalkylarylsiloxanes mention may be made of polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes or linear or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes such as the product DC 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING.
- the silicone gums are mass polysiloxanes number average molecular between 200,000 and 5,000,000, used alone or mixed in a solvent.
- This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.
- R and R ' are preferably chosen from the group comprising alkyl radicals such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, aryl radicals such as, for example, phenyl, naphthyl, aralkyl radicals such as, for example, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl, xylyl radicals and cyclohexyl.
- alkyl radicals such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl
- aryl radicals such as, for example, phenyl, naphthyl
- aralkyl radicals such as, for example, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl, x
- Y is preferably -R "-, -R" -CO-, -R "-NHCO-, -R" -NH-CO-NH-R '"- NHCO ⁇ , - R"-OCONH-R''' -NHCO-, where R "is a divalent alkylene group such as, for example, ethylene, propylene or butylene and R"'is a divalent alkylene group or a divalent arylene group such as -C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 -C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 -CH 2 -C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -C 6 H 4 -.
- Y represents a divalent alkylene radical, more particularly the radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - or the radical C 4 H 8 .
- Polymers with a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane are more preferably chosen from those described in patents US 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037 and applications EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578.
- These are copolymers obtained by radical polymerization from ethylenically unsaturated monomers and silicone macromers having a group vinyl terminal or copolymers obtained by reaction of a polyolefin comprising functionalized groups and a polysiloxane macromer having a reactive terminal function with said functionalized groups.
- all the silicones can also be used in the form emulsions or microemulsions.
- the silicone (s) may represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, from preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
- compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one other surfactant which is generally present in an amount between 0.1% and 40% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 30% and even more preferably between 5% and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- This surfactant can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric, non-ionic, cationic or mixtures thereof.
- the additional surfactants suitable for carrying out the present invention are including the following:
- anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts , amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl
- anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
- Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether acids, (C 6 -C 24 ) aryl ether carboxylic acids. polyoxyalkylenated, (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl amido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.
- anionic surfactants it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof.
- Non-ionic surfactants are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants” by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, critical.
- alcohols can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups which can range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which can range in particular from 2 to 30.
- copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sorbitan oxyethylenated having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14 ) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides.
- the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which are particularly well within the
- Additional amphoteric surfactants may in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear chain or branched containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) betaines or (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) sulfobetaines.
- aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear chain or branched containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic
- Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco-amphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionophpropiodopropionophodipropionate, .
- disodium cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
- mixtures are preferably used surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants or mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants or non-ionic.
- Cationic surfactants can also be used, among which mention may be made of specific (non-exhaustive list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary, possibly polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides to cationic character.
- Anionic surfactant (s) other than hydroxy-2alkyl ether acids carboxylic acids are generally present in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- amphoteric or nonionic surfactant (s) are generally present at from 0.5 to about 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the quantity and quality of the surfactants are those sufficient to give the final composition satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.
- all of the detergent surfactants generally represents from 4 to 50% by weight and preferably from 6 to 35% by weight and more particularly from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sun filters, anionic or nonionic or amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers, proteins, hydrolysates proteins, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched chains C 16 -C 40 such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vegetable oils, mineral oils and synthetic oils, anti-dandruff agents and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the stability and the properties of the compositions according to the invention.
- additives chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sun filters, anionic or nonionic or amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers, proteins, hydrolysates proteins, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched chains C 16 -C 40 such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids,
- additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions possibly ranging from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the precise quantity of each additive is easily determined by a person skilled in the art according to its nature and its function.
- compositions according to the invention comprise in in addition to one or more cationic polymers.
- the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen among all those already known per se as improving the properties hair cosmetics treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in the applications for French patents FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
- cationic polymer means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
- cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and of acrylamide in particular chlorides, marketed under the names "MERQUAT 100", “MERQUAT 550" and “MERQUAT S” by the company MERCK, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride sold for example under the name "JAGUAR C13S" by the company MEYHALL.
- quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION
- cyclopolymers in particular homopolymers of diallyldimethyl
- the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
- the cosmetically acceptable medium can consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a lower C 1 -C 4 alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiobutanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.
- a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a lower C 1 -C 4 alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiobutanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.
- the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the detergent compositions according to the invention generally have a final pH between 3 and 10. Preferably, this pH is between 4 and 8. Adjusting the pH at the desired value can be done conventionally by adding a base (organic or mineral) in the composition, for example ammonia or a (poly) amine primary, secondary or tertiary such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propane diamine, or by adding a acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as for example citric acid.
- a base organic or mineral
- a (poly) amine primary, secondary or tertiary such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propane diamine
- a acid preferably a carboxylic acid such as for example citric acid.
- compositions in accordance with the invention may contain, in addition to the combination defined above, viscosity regulating agents such as electrolytes, or thickening agents. Mention may in particular be made of sodium chloride, scleroglucans, xanthan gums, alkanolamides of fatty acids, alkanolamides of alkyl ether carboxylic acid optionally oxyethylenated with up to 5 moles of ethylene oxide such as product sold under the name "AMINOL A15" by the company CHEM Y, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and acrylic acid / crosslinked C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate copolymers. These viscosity regulating agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in proportions which can range up to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention can also contain up to 5% pearlescent or opacifying agents well known in the art such as example sodium or magnesium palmitates, stearates and hydroxystearates sodium or magnesium, acylated fatty chain derivatives such as ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol monostearates or distearates, ethers with fatty chains such as, for example, distearyl ether or 1- (hexadecyloxy) -2-octadecanol.
- pearlescent or opacifying agents well known in the art such as example sodium or magnesium palmitates, stearates and hydroxystearates sodium or magnesium, acylated fatty chain derivatives such as ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol monostearates or distearates, ethers with fatty chains such as, for example, distearyl ether or 1- (hexadecyloxy) -2-octadecanol.
- compositions according to the invention may also contain foam synergists such as C 10 -C 18 1,2-alkanediols or fatty alkanolamides derived from mono or diethanolamine.
- foam synergists such as C 10 -C 18 1,2-alkanediols or fatty alkanolamides derived from mono or diethanolamine.
- compositions according to the invention can be used for washing and treatment of keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp and more particularly hair.
- the detergent compositions according to the invention are shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths.
- compositions of the invention can also be in the form of conditioner to rinse or not, compositions for perm, straightening, coloring or discoloration, or in the form of compositions to be rinsed off, to be applied before or after coloring, discoloration, perm or straightening or between two stages of a perm or straightening.
- compositions of the invention may also be in the form of products removers.
- compositions according to the invention can be in the form of gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thickened lotion or foam and be used for skin, leather hair, nails, eyelashes, lips and more particularly hair.
- the subject of the invention is also a method for treating keratin materials such as that the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the materials keratin a cosmetic composition as defined above, then to if necessary rinse, in particular with water.
- this method allows the treatment, care, washing or removing make-up from the skin, hair or any other keratin material.
- MA means active material
- composition A Two shampoo compositions were produced, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative (composition B):
- Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of bleached hair (SA20) previously wet.
- the shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water.
- the locks are dried for 10 minutes at 60 ° C.
- the procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.
- the purpose of the test used is the classification, by a jury, of each series of 2 samples by assigning a score of 1 for the strand that detangles best, which is the softest and smoothest and 2 for the other.
- the 2 wicks of the same series are presented simultaneously to the judge.
- the statistical analysis of the results is carried out using the tables of A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124 - 125 1963). All the experts indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is significantly softer, smoother and is disentangled easily than that treated with composition B.
- composition A Two shampoo compositions were produced, one in accordance with the invention (composition A) and the other comparative (composition B): AT B -2- (2-hydroxylauryloxy) sodium acetate in aqueous solution at 30% MA (BEAULIGHT SHAA from SANYO) 10 g MA - - Alkyl (C 12 -C 14 ) oxyethylenated sodium ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide in aqueous solution at 70% of MA 4 gMA 14 gMA - Hexadimethrine chloride in aqueous solution at 60% MA (MEXOMER PO from CHIMEX) 0.6 g MA 0.6 g MA - Polydimethylsiloxane in aqueous nonionic emulsion with 50% of MA (DC2-1691 of DOW CORNING) 2.5 g MA 2.5 g MA g MA - Xanthan gum (KELTROL T from NUTRASWEET KELCO) 1 g 1 g
- Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of bleached hair (SA20) previously wet.
- the shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water.
- the locks are dried for 10 minutes at 60 ° C.
- the procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.
- composition A A panel of experts evaluated the appearance of dried hair. All the experts indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is significantly softer and detangles easily than that treated with composition B.
- a shampoo composition in accordance with the invention was produced: - 2- (2-hydroxylauryloxy) sodium acetate in aqueous solution containing 30% of active material (MA) (BEAULIGHT SHAA from SANYO) 5 g MA - Alkyl (C 12 -C 14 ) oxyethylenated sodium ether sulfate with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide in aqueous solution at 70% of MA 15 gMA - Cocoylbetaine in aqueous solution at 30% MA 5 gMA - Polydimethylsiloxane with a viscosity of 300,000 cSt 1.5g - Xanthan gum (KELTROL T from NUTRASWEET KELCO) 1 g - Preservatives qs - Demineralized water qs 100g
- Hair treated with the composition according to the invention is soft, smooth and detangles easily.
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Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable au moins un tensioactif anionique de hydroxyalkyléther carboxylique et au moins une silicone.The present invention relates to new cosmetic compositions comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one anionic surfactant hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid and at least one silicone.
Pour le nettoyage et/ou le lavage des cheveux et/ou de la peau, l'utilisation de compositions détergentes (shampooing ou gel-douche) à base essentiellement d'agents tensioactifs classiques de type notamment anionique, non ionique et/ou amphotère, mais plus particulièrement de type anionique, est courante. Ces compositions sont appliquées sur cheveux ou peau mouillés et la mousse générée par massage ou friction avec les mains permet, après rinçage à l'eau, l'élimination des diverses salissures initialement présentes sur les cheveux ou la peau.For cleaning and / or washing hair and / or skin, the use of detergent compositions (shampoo or shower gel) based essentially on agents conventional surfactants of the anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric type in particular, but more particularly of the anionic type, is common. These compositions are applied on wet hair or skin and the foam generated by massage or friction with hands allows, after rinsing with water, the elimination of various soils initially present on hair or skin.
Ces compositions de base possèdent certes un bon pouvoir lavant, mais les propriétés cosmétiques intrinsèques qui leur sont attachées restent toutefois assez faibles, notamment en raison du fait que le caractère relativement agressif d'un tel traitement de nettoyage peut entraíner à la longue sur les matières kératiniques des dommages plus ou moins marqués liés en particulier à l'élimination progressive des lipides ou protéines contenues dans ou à la surface de ces dernières.These basic compositions certainly have good washing power, but the properties intrinsic cosmetics attached to them, however, remain quite weak, in particular due to the fact that the relatively aggressive nature of such treatment of cleaning can lead in the long run to keratinous material more damage or less marked, linked in particular to the progressive elimination of lipids or proteins contained in or on the surface thereof.
Aussi, pour améliorer les propnétés cosmétiques des compositions détergentes ci-dessus, et plus particulièrement de celles qui sont appelées à être appliquées sur des cheveux sensibilisés (i.e. des cheveux qui se trouvent abímés ou fragilisés notamment sous l'action chimique des agents atmosphériques et/ou de traitements capillaires tels que permanentes, teintures ou décolorations), il est maintenant usuel d'introduire dans ces dernières des agents cosmétiques complémentaires dits agents conditionneurs destinés principalement à réparer ou limiter les effets néfastes ou indésirables induits par les différents traitements ou agressions que subissent, de manière plus ou moins répétés, les fibres capillaires Ces agents conditionneurs peuvent bien entendu également améliorer le comportement cosmétique des cheveux naturels.Also, to improve the cosmetic properties of the above detergent compositions, and more particularly of those which are to be applied to sensitized hair (i.e. hair which is damaged or weakened in particular under the chemical action of atmospheric agents and / or hair treatments such than permanent, dye or discoloration), it is now customary to introduce into the latter complementary cosmetic agents known as conditioning agents primarily intended to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects induced by the different treatments or assaults that they undergo, more or less repeated, hair fibers These conditioning agents can of course also improve the cosmetic behavior of natural hair.
Les agents conditionneurs les plus couramment utilisés à ce jour dans des shampooings sont les polymères cationiques, les silicones et/ou les dérivés siliconés, qui confèrent en effet aux cheveux lavés, secs ou mouillés, une facilité de démêlage, une douceur et un lissage accrus par rapport à ce qui peut être obtenu avec les compositions nettoyantes correspondantes qui en sont exemptes.The most commonly used conditioning agents to date in shampoos are cationic polymers, silicones and / or silicone derivatives, which give effect to washed, dry or wet hair, ease of detangling, softness and increased smoothness compared to what can be achieved with cleaning compositions which are exempt.
Toutefois, et malgré les progrès réalisés récemment dans le domaine des shampooings à base de polymères cationiques et/ou de silicone, ces derniers ne donnent pas vraiment complètement satisfaction, de sorte qu'un fort besoin existe encore actuellement quant à pouvoir disposer de nouveaux produits présentant, au niveau de l'une ou de plusieurs des propriétés cosmétiques évoquées ci-avant, de meilleures performances.However, despite recent advances in shampoo based on cationic polymers and / or silicone, the latter do not really give completely satisfied, so that a strong need still exists today for be able to have new products presenting, at the level of one or more cosmetic properties mentioned above, better performance.
Les tensioactifs anioniques de type hydroxyalkyléther carboxylique ont déjà été préconisés dans des compositions cosmétiques détergentes. Ils ont été décrits par exemple dans les demandes de brevet J63280798, J08268487 et J08269482.The anionic surfactants of the hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic type have already been recommended in detergent cosmetic compositions. They have been described by example in patent applications J63280798, J08268487 and J08269482.
Les compositions de lavage des cheveux utilisant ces tensioactifs seuls ne conduisent pas à de propriétés cosmétiques satisfaisantes.Hair washing compositions using these surfactants alone do not not to satisfactory cosmetic properties.
L'invention a donc pour but de proposer des compositions cosmétiques détergentes présentant des propriétés cosmétiques améliorées, en particulier le démêlage, le lissage et la douceur des cheveux.The invention therefore aims to provide detergent cosmetic compositions having improved cosmetic properties, in particular detangling, smoothing and the softness of the hair.
Or, la demanderesse a maintenant trouvé que l'association de silicones particulières et d'un tensioactif anionique de hydroxyalkyléther carboxylique permettait d'atteindre ces buts.The Applicant has now found that the association of particular silicones and of an anionic hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic surfactant made it possible to achieve these goals.
Ces nouvelles compositions permettent de mieux déposer ces silicones sur les matières kératiniques (notamment les cheveux) qu'une composition contenant des tensioactifs anioniques classiques tels que les sels de alkyléthercarboxylates, ceci sans aspect visuel gras ou toucher gras.These new compositions make it possible to better deposit these silicones on the materials keratin (especially hair) than a composition containing surfactants conventional anionics such as alkyl ethercarboxylate salts, this without visual appearance oily or touch oily.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention confèrent aux matières kératiniques notamment les cheveux, un remarquable effet traitant qui se manifeste notamment par une facilité de démêlage, ainsi qu'un apport de volume, de légèreté, de lissage, de douceur et de souplesse et de discipline sans aucune sensation de toucher chargé. The compositions in accordance with the invention give keratin materials especially the hair, a remarkable treating effect which manifests itself in particular by ease of disentangling, as well as a contribution of volume, lightness, smoothing, softness and flexibility and discipline without any feeling of charged touch.
L'invention a ainsi pour objet une composition cosmétique détergente, caractérisée en ce
qu'elle comprend, dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable, au moins un tensioactif
anionique de type hydroxy-2 alkyléthercarboxylique ou ses sels de stucture (I) ci-après et
au moins une silicone choisie parmi :
Un autre objet de l'invention concerne un procédé de traitement des matières kératiniques, telles que les cheveux, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer sur lesdites matières des compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention.Another subject of the invention relates to a process for treating materials keratin, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to said materials of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation d'une composition selon l'invention pour le démêlage, le lissage des cheveux, pour apporter du volume, de la légèreté, de la douceur, de la souplesse et de la discipline aux cheveux.Another subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention for the detangling, straightening the hair, to bring volume, lightness, softness, flexibility and discipline to the hair.
L'invention a encore pour objet l'utilisation de tensioactifs de type hydroxy-2 alkyl éther carboxylique de stucture (l) ci-après dans ou pour la fabrication de compositions cosmétiques détergentes comprenant au moins une silicone définie ci-dessus.The invention also relates to the use of surfactants of the hydroxy-2 alkyl ether type. carboxylic structure (l) below in or for the manufacture of compositions detergent cosmetics comprising at least one silicone defined above.
Selon la présente invention, par matières kératiniques, on comprend les cheveux, les cils, les sourcils, la peau, les ongles, les muqueuses ou le cuir chevelu et plus particulièrement les cheveux.According to the present invention, by keratin materials, one understands the hair, the eyelashes, eyebrows, skin, nails, mucous membranes or scalp and more especially the hair.
Les différents objets de l'invention vont maintenant être détaillés. L'ensemble des significations et définitions des composés utilisés dans la présente invention données ci-dessous sont valables pour l'ensemble des objets de l'invention.The various objects of the invention will now be detailed. All of the meanings and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention given below are valid for all of the objects of the invention.
Les tensioactifs anioniques de type acide hydroxy-2 alkyl éther carboxylique et ses sels
peuvent avoir la structure suivante :
dans laquelle:
X désigne l'hydrogène ou un cation minéral ou organique tel que :
Des acides hydroxy-2 alkyl éther carboxyliques préférés selon la présente invention sont des composés de formule (I) dans laquelle R1 désigne plus particulièrement un radical alkyle saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone.Preferred 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acids according to the present invention are compounds of formula (I) in which R 1 more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
Encore plus particulièrement, R1 désigne un radical ou un mélange de radicaux en C8-C18 notamment dérivés de coprah.Even more particularly, R 1 denotes a radical or a mixture of C 8 -C 18 radicals in particular derived from copra.
Parmi les tensioactifs de formule (I), on peut citer le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination BEAULIGHT SHAA par la société SANYO.Among the surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the product sold under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA by the company SANYO.
Selon l'invention, le tensioactif anionique de type hydroxy-2 alkyl éther carboxylique peut représenter de 1 % à 30 % en poids, de préférence de 3 % à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition finale.According to the invention, the anionic surfactant of the hydroxy-2 alkyl ether carboxylic type can represent from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
Les silicones utilisables conformément à l'invention peuvent être solubles ou insolubles dans l'eau ou dans la composition finale. Elles peuvent être volatiles ou non volatiles.The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention may be soluble or insoluble in water or in the final composition. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
Les silicones utilisables conformément à l'invention sont en particulier insolubles dans l'eau et peuvent se présenter sous forme d'huiles, de cires, de résines ou de gommes.The silicones which can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular insoluble in water and can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Les silicones sont définis plus en détail dans l'ouvrage de Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press.Silicones are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL's book "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones "(1968) Academic Press.
Lorsqu'ils sont volatiles, les polyalkylsiloxanes, les polyarylsiloxanes, les
polyalkylarylsiloxanes sont plus particulièrement choisies parmi ceux possédant un point
d'ébullition compris entre 60°C et 260°C, et plus particulièrement encore parmi :
On utilise de préférence les polyalkylsiloxanes, les polyarylsiloxanes, les polyalkylarylsiloxanes non volatiles sous forme d'huiles, de gommes de silicone ou de résines de silicone ;Polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, non-volatile polyalkylarylsiloxanes in the form of oils, silicone gums or silicone resins;
Parmi les polyalkylsiloxanes, on peut citer principalement :
- les polydiméthylsiloxanes linéaires à groupements terminaux triméthylsilyle, comme par exemple, et à titre non limitatif, les huiles SILBIONE® de la série 70047 commercialisées par RHODIA CHIMIE, l'huile SILBIONE® 47 V 500 000 de RHODIA CHIMIE ou certaines VISCASIL de la GENERAL ELECTRIC ;
- les polydiméthylsiloxanes linéaires à groupements terminaux hydroxydiméthylsilyle telles que les huiles de la série 48 V de RHODIA CHIMIE.
- linear polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as, for example, and without limitation, SILBIONE® oils of the 70047 series marketed by RHODIA CHIMIE, SILBIONE® 47 V 500 000 oil from RHODIA CHIMIE or certain VISCASIL from GENERAL ELECTRIC ;
- linear polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl end groups such as oils of the 48 V series from RHODIA CHIMIE.
Dans cette classe de polyalkylsiloxanes, on peut également mentionner les polyalkylsiloxanes vendus par la société GOLDSCHMIDT sous les dénominations commerciales ABILWAX® 9800 et ABILWAX® 9801 qui sont des polyalkyl(C1-C20)siloxanes.In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the polyalkylsiloxanes sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names ABILWAX® 9800 and ABILWAX® 9801 which are polyalkyl (C 1 -C 20 ) siloxanes.
Les polyalkylsiloxanes ont de préférence une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 500 cSt. (5 cm2/s).The polyalkylsiloxanes preferably have a viscosity greater than or equal to 500 cSt. (5 cm 2 / s).
La viscosité des silicones est mesurée à 25°C selon la norme ASTM 445 Appendice C.The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.
Parmi les polyalkylarylsiloxanes, on peut citer les polydiméthylméthylphénylsiloxanes ou les polydiméthyldiphénylsiloxanes, linéaires ou ramifiés tels que le produit DC 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID de DOW CORNING.Among the polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes or linear or branched polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes such as the product DC 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING.
Les gommes de silicone, conformes à l'invention, sont des polysiloxanes de masse moléculaire moyenne en nombre comprise entre 200.000 et 5.000.000, utilisés seuls ou en mélange dans un solvant. Ce solvant peut être choisi parmi les silicones volatiles, les huiles polydiméthylsiloxanes (PDMS), les huiles poly-phénylméthylsiloxanes (PPMS), les isoparaffines, les polyisobutylènes, le chlorure de méthylène, le pentane, le dodécane, le tridécanes ou leurs mélanges.The silicone gums, in accordance with the invention, are mass polysiloxanes number average molecular between 200,000 and 5,000,000, used alone or mixed in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.
On cite, par exemple, les composés suivants :
- polydiméthylsiloxane,
- poly[(diméthylsiloxane)/(méthylvinylsiloxane)],
- poly[(diméthylsiloxane)/(diphénylsiloxane)],
- poly[(diméthylsiloxane)/(phénylméthylsiloxane)],
- poly[(diméthylsiloxane)/(diphénylsiloxane)/(méthylvinylsiloxane)],
- polydimethylsiloxane,
- poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)],
- poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane)],
- poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (phenylmethylsiloxane)],
- poly [(dimethylsiloxane) / (diphenylsiloxane) / (methylvinylsiloxane)],
On peut citer, par exemple, les mélanges suivants :
Les résines de silicone conformes à l'invention sont de préférence des systèmes
siloxaniques réticulés renfermant les unités :
Parmi ces résines, on peut citer le produit vendu sous le nom DOW CORNING 593 par DOW CORNING ou ceux vendus sous le nom SILICONE FLUID SS 4267 par la GENERAL ELECTRIC et qui sont des diméthyl/triméthylpolysiloxanes.Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Dow Corning 593 by DOW CORNING or those sold under the name SILICONE FLUID SS 4267 by the GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are dimethyl / trimethylpolysiloxanes.
Les polysiloxanes comportant dans leur structure générale, un ou plusieurs groupements
organofonctionnels sont notamment les polyalkylsiloxanes, les polyarylsiloxanes, les
polyalkylarylsiloxanes tels que définis précédemment et comportant un ou plusieurs
groupements organofonctionnels directement fixés sur la chaíne siloxanique ou fixés par
l'intermédiaire d'un radical hydrocarboné.
Les polysiloxanes à groupements organofonctionnels de l'invention sont ceux
comportant :
The polysiloxanes containing organofunctional groups of the invention are those comprising:
Les copolymères blocs ayant un bloc linéaire polysiloxane-polyoxyalkylène de type (A-B)n
utilisés dans le cadre de la présente invention ont de préférence la formule générale
suivante :
- R et R', identiques ou différents, représentent un radical hydrocarboné monovalent ne contenant pas d'insaturation aliphatique,
- n est un nombre entier allant de 2 à 4,
- a est un nombre entier supérieur ou égal à 5, de préférence compris entre 5 et 200 et encore plus particulièrement entre 5 et 100.
- b est un nombre entier supérieur ou égal à 4, de préférence compris entre 4 et 200 et encore plus particulièrement entre 5 et 100.
- c est un nombre entier supérieur ou égal à 4, de préférence compris entre 4 et 1000 et encore plus particulièrement entre 5 et 300.
- Y représente un groupe organique divalent qui est lié à l'atome de silicium adjacent par une liaison carbone-silicium et à un bloc polyoxyalkylène par un atome d'oxygène,
- le poids moléculaire moyen de chaque bloc siloxane est compris entre environ 400 et environ 10.000, celui de chaque bloc polyoxyalkylène étant compris entre environ 300 et environ 10.000,
- les blocs siloxane représentent de 10 % environ à 95 % environ en poids du copolymère bloc,
- le poids moléculaire moyen en poids du copolymère bloc étant d'au moins 3.000 et de préférence compris entre 5000 et 1000000 et encore plus particulièrement entre 10000 et 200000.
- R and R ′, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical not containing aliphatic unsaturation,
- n is an integer ranging from 2 to 4,
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably between 5 and 200 and even more particularly between 5 and 100.
- b is an integer greater than or equal to 4, preferably between 4 and 200 and even more particularly between 5 and 100.
- c is an integer greater than or equal to 4, preferably between 4 and 1000 and even more particularly between 5 and 300.
- Y represents a divalent organic group which is linked to the adjacent silicon atom by a carbon-silicon bond and to a polyoxyalkylene block by an oxygen atom,
- the average molecular weight of each siloxane block is between approximately 400 and approximately 10,000, that of each polyoxyalkylene block being between approximately 300 and approximately 10,000,
- the siloxane blocks represent from approximately 10% to approximately 95% by weight of the block copolymer,
- the weight average molecular weight of the block copolymer being at least 3,000 and preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000 and even more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
R et R' sont préférentiellement choisis parmi le groupe comprenant les radicaux alkyls comme par exemple les radicaux méthyle, éthyle, propyle, butyle, pentyle, hexyle, octyle, décyle, dodécyle, les radicaux aryles comme par exemple phényle, naphtyle, les radicaux aralkyles comme par exemple benzyle, phényléthyle, les radicaux tolyle, xylyle et cyclohexyle.R and R 'are preferably chosen from the group comprising alkyl radicals such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, aryl radicals such as, for example, phenyl, naphthyl, aralkyl radicals such as, for example, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl, xylyl radicals and cyclohexyl.
Y est de préférence -R"-, -R"-CO-, -R"-NHCO-, -R"-NH-CO-NH-R'"-NHCO―, - R"-OCONH-R'''-NHCO-, où R" est un groupe alkylène divalent comme par exemple l'éthylène, le propylène ou le butylène et R"' est un groupe alkylène divalent ou un groupe arylène divalent comme -C6H4-, -C6H4-C6H4-, -C6H4-CH2-C6H4-, -C6H4-C(CH3)2-C6H4-.Y is preferably -R "-, -R" -CO-, -R "-NHCO-, -R" -NH-CO-NH-R '"- NHCO―, - R"-OCONH-R''' -NHCO-, where R "is a divalent alkylene group such as, for example, ethylene, propylene or butylene and R"'is a divalent alkylene group or a divalent arylene group such as -C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 -C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 -CH 2 -C 6 H 4 -, -C 6 H 4 -C (CH 3 ) 2 -C 6 H 4 -.
Encore plus préférentiellement, Y représente un radical alkylène divalent, plus particulièrement le radical -CH2-CH2-CH2- ou le radical C4H8. Even more preferably, Y represents a divalent alkylene radical, more particularly the radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - or the radical C 4 H 8 .
La préparation des copolymères blocs mis en oeuvre dans le cadre de la présente invention est décrite dans la demande européenne EP 0 492 657 A1.The preparation of the block copolymers used in the context of the present invention is described in European application EP 0 492 657 A1.
Les polymères à squelette organique non-siliconé greffé par des monomères contenant un polysiloxane, conformes à l'invention, sont choisis plus préférentiellement parmi ceux décrits dans les brevets US 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 et US 4,972,037 et les demandes de brevet EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 et WO 95/00578. Il s'agit de copolymères obtenus par polymérisation radicalaire à partir de monomères à insaturation éthylénique et de macromères siliconés ayant un groupe vinylique terminal ou bien des copolymères obtenus par réaction d'une polyoléfine comprenant des groupes fonctionnalisés et d'un macromère polysiloxane ayant une fonction terminale réactive avec lesdits groupes fonctionnalisés.Polymers with a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, in accordance with the invention, are more preferably chosen from those described in patents US 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037 and applications EP-A-0 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-A-0 640 105 and WO 95/00578. These are copolymers obtained by radical polymerization from ethylenically unsaturated monomers and silicone macromers having a group vinyl terminal or copolymers obtained by reaction of a polyolefin comprising functionalized groups and a polysiloxane macromer having a reactive terminal function with said functionalized groups.
Des exemples de polymères à squelette polysiloxanique greffé par des monomères organiques non siliconés convenant à la mise en oeuvre de la présente invention, ainsi que leur mode particulier de préparation, sont notamment décrits dans les demandes de brevets EP-A- 0 582 152, WO 93/23009 et WO 95/03776.Examples of polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with monomers non-silicone organic suitable for the implementation of the present invention, as well that their particular mode of preparation are described in particular in the requests for EP-A-0 582 152, WO 93/23009 and WO 95/03776.
Selon l'invention, toutes les silicones peuvent également être utilisées sous forme d'émulsions ou de microémulsions.According to the invention, all the silicones can also be used in the form emulsions or microemulsions.
Les silicones particulièrement préférées conformément à l'invention sont :
- les polydiméthylsiloxanes à groupements terminaux triméthylsilyle telles que les huiles ayant une viscosité comprise entre 0,2 et 2,5 m2/s à 25° C, telles que les huiles de la séries DC200 de DOW CORNING en particulier celle de viscosité 60 000 cSt, des séries SILBIONE® 70047 et 47 et plus particulièrement l'huile SILBIONE® 70 047 V 500 000 commercialisées par la société RHODIA CHIMIE, ou l'huile de silicone AK 300.000 de la société WACKER,
- les polydiméthylsiloxanes à groupements terminaux diméthylsilanols tels que les diméthiconols ;
- les polysiloxanes à groupements aminés tels que les amodiméthicones ou les triméthylsilylamodiméthicones ;
- polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups such as oils having a viscosity of between 0.2 and 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C, such as oils from the DC200 series from DOW CORNING in particular that of viscosity 60,000 cSt , the SILBIONE® 70047 and 47 series and more particularly the SILBIONE® 70 047 V 500 000 oil marketed by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, or the silicone oil AK 300.000 from the company WACKER,
- polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups such as dimethiconols;
- polysiloxanes containing amino groups such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicones;
Selon l'invention, la ou les silicones peuvent représenter de 0,001 % à 10 % en poids, de préférence de 0,005 % à 5 % en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 0,01 % à 3 % en poids, du poids total de la composition finale.According to the invention, the silicone (s) may represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, from preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
Les compositions de l'invention contiennent en outre avantageusement au moins un autre agent tensioactif qui est généralement présent en une quantité comprise entre 0,1% et 40% en poids environ, de préférence entre 3% et 30% et encore plus préférentiellement entre 5% et 20%, par rapport au poids total de la composition.The compositions of the invention also advantageously contain at least one other surfactant which is generally present in an amount between 0.1% and 40% by weight approximately, preferably between 3% and 30% and even more preferably between 5% and 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Cet agent tensioactif peut être choisi parmi les agents tensioactifs anioniques, amphotères, non-ioniques, cationiques ou leurs mélanges.This surfactant can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric, non-ionic, cationic or mixtures thereof.
Les tensioactifs additionnels convenant à la mise en oeuvre de la présente invention sont notamment les suivants :The additional surfactants suitable for carrying out the present invention are including the following:
Leur nature ne revêt pas, dans le cadre de la présente invention, de caractère
véritablement critique.
Ainsi, à titre d'exemple de tensioactifs anioniques utilisables, seuls ou en mélanges, dans
le cadre de la présente invention, on peut citer notamment (liste non limitative) les sels
(en particulier sels alcalins, notamment de sodium, sels d'ammonium, sels d'amines, sels
d'aminoalcools ou sels de magnésium) des composés suivants : les alkylsulfates, les
alkyléthersulfates, alkylamidoéthersulfates, alkylarylpolyéthersulfates, monoglycérides
sulfates ; les alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates,
α-oléfine-sulfonates, paraffine-sulfonates ; les alkylsulfosuccinates, les
alkyléthersulfosuccinates, les alkylamidesulfosuccinates; les alkylsulfosuccinamates ; les
alkylsulfoacétates ; les alkylétherphosphates; les acylsarcosinates ; les acyliséthionates
et les N-acyltaurates, le radical alkyle ou acyle de tous ces différents composés
comportant de préférence de 8 à 24 atomes de carbone, et le radical aryl désignant de
préférence un groupement phényle ou benzyle. Parmi les tensioactifs anioniques encore
utilisables, on peut également citer les sels d'acides gras tels que les sels des acides
oléique, ricinoléique, palmitique, stéarique, les acides d'huile de coprah ou d'huile de
coprah hydrogénée ; les acyl-lactylates dont le radical acyle comporte 8 à 20 atomes de
carbone. On peut également utiliser des tensioactifs faiblement anioniques, comme les
acides d'alkyl D galactoside uroniques et leurs sels ainsi que les acides alkyl (C6-C24)
éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés, les acides alkyl(C6-C24)aryl éther carboxyliques
polyoxyalkylénés ,les acides alkyl(C6-C24) amido éther carboxyliques polyoxyalkylénés et
leurs sels, en particulier ceux comportant de 2 à 50 groupements oxyde d'éthylène, et
leurs mélanges.Their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, of a truly critical nature.
Thus, by way of example of anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkali salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts , amine salts, amino alcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkylsulphates, alkylethersulphates, alkylamidoethersulphates, alkylarylpolyethersulphates, monoglycerides sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; alkyl sulfoacetates; alkyl etherphosphates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of the salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl-lactylates whose acyl radical contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants can also be used, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl ether acids, (C 6 -C 24 ) aryl ether carboxylic acids. polyoxyalkylenated, (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl amido ether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and their mixtures.
Parmi les tensioactifs anioniques, on préfère utiliser selon l'invention les sels d'alkylsulfates et d'alkyléthersulfates et leurs mélanges.Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof.
Les agents tensioactifs non-ioniques sont, eux aussi, des composés bien connus en soi (voir notamment à cet égard "Handbook of Surfactants" par M.R. PORTER, éditions Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) et leur nature ne revêt pas, dans le cadre de la présente invention, de caractère critique. Ainsi, ils peuvent être notamment choisis parmi (liste non limitative) les alcools, les alpha-diols, les alkylphénols ou les acides gras polyéthoxylés, polypropoxylés ou polyglycérolés, ayant une chaíne grasse comportant par exemple 8 à 18 atomes de carbone, le nombre de groupements oxyde d'éthylène ou oxyde de propylène pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 50 et le nombre de groupements glycérol pouvant aller notamment de 2 à 30. On peut également citer les copolymères d'oxyde d'éthylène et de propylène, les condensats d'oxyde d'éthylène et de propylène sur des alcools gras ; les amides gras polyéthoxylés ayant de préférence de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, les amides gras polyglycérolés comportant en moyenne 1 à 5 groupements glycérol et en particulier 1,5 à 4 ; les amines grasses polyéthoxylées ayant de préférence 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ; les esters d'acides gras du sorbitan oxyéthylénés ayant de 2 à 30 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène ; les esters d'acides gras du sucrose, les esters d'acides gras du polyéthylèneglycol, les alkylpolyglycosides, les dérivés de N-alkyl glucamine, les oxydes d'amines tels que les oxydes d'alkyl (C10 - C14) amines ou les oxydes de N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. On notera que les alkylpolyglycosides constituent des tensioactifs non-ioniques rentrant particulièrement bien dans le cadre de la présente invention.Non-ionic surfactants are also well known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature is not, in the context of the present invention, critical. Thus, they can in particular be chosen from (nonlimiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups which can range in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups which can range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sorbitan oxyethylenated having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C 10 -C 14 ) alkyl oxides or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. It will be noted that the alkylpolyglycosides constitute nonionic surfactants which are particularly well within the scope of the present invention.
Les agents tensioactifs amphotères additionnels, dont la nature ne revêt pas dans le cadre de la présente invention de caractère critique, peuvent être notamment (liste non limitative) des dérivés d'amines secondaires ou tertiaires aliphatiques, dans lesquels le radical aliphatique est une chaíne linéaire ou ramifiée comportant 8 à 22 atomes de carbone et contenant au moins un groupe anionique hydrosolubilisant (par exemple carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate ou phosphonate) ; on peut citer encore les alkyl (C8-C20) bétaïnes, les sulfobétaïnes, les alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) bétaïnes ou les alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) sulfobétaïnes.Additional amphoteric surfactants, the nature of which is not critical in the context of the present invention, may in particular be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear chain or branched containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Mention may also be made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) betaines or (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) sulfobetaines.
Parmi les dérivés d'amines, on peut citer les produits commercialisés sous les
dénomination MIRANOL, tels que décrits dans les brevets US-2 528 378 et
US-2 781 354 et de structures :
Ces composés sont classés dans le dictionnaire CTFA, 7ème édition, 1997, sous les
dénominations Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate,
Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco-amphodipropionate,
Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caproamphodipropionate,
Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic acid, Coco-amphodipropionic
acid.
A titre d'exemple on peut citer le disodium cocoamphodiacetate commercialisé sous la
dénomination commerciale MIRANOL® C2M concentré par la société RHODIA CHIMIE. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 7th edition, 1997, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Caproamphodiacetate, Disodium Coco-amphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionophpropiodopropionophodipropionate, .
By way of example, mention may be made of disodium cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.
Dans les compositions conformes à l'invention, on utilise de préférence des mélanges d'agents tensioactifs et en particulier des mélanges d'agents tensioactifs anioniques ou des mélanges d'agents tensioactifs anioniques et d'agents tensioactifs amphotères ou non ioniques.In the compositions according to the invention, mixtures are preferably used surfactants and in particular mixtures of anionic surfactants or mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants or non-ionic.
On utilise de préférence comme agent tensioactif anionique additionnel les alkyl(C12-C14) sulfates de sodium, de triéthanolamine ou d'ammonium, les alkyl (C12-C14)éthersulfates de sodium, de triéthanolamine ou d'ammonium oxyéthylénés à 2,2 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène, le cocoyl iséthionate de sodium et l'alphaoléfine(C14-C16) sulfonate de sodium et leurs mélanges avec :
- soit un agent tensioactif amphotère tel que les dérivés d'amine dénommés disodiumcocoamphodipropionate ou sodiumcocoamphopropionate commercialisés notamment par la société RHODIA CHIMIE sous la dénomination commerciale "MIRANOL® C2M CONC" en solution aqueuse à 38 % de matière active ou sous la dénomination MIRANOL® C32;
- soit un agent tensioactif amphotère tel que les alkylbétaïnes en particulier la cocobétaïne commercialisée sous la dénomination "DEHYTON® AB 30" en solution aqueuse à 32 % de MA par la société HENKEL ou tel que les alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C1-C6) bétaïnes en particulier la TEGOBETAINE® F 50 commercialisée par la société GOLDSCHMIDT.
- or an amphoteric surfactant such as the amine derivatives called disodiumcocoamphodipropionate or sodiumcocoamphopropionate sold in particular by the company RHODIA CHIMIE under the trade name "MIRANOL® C2M CONC" in aqueous solution at 38% of active material or under the name MIRANOL® C32;
- either an amphoteric surfactant such as alkylbetaines in particular cocobetaine sold under the name "DEHYTON® AB 30" in aqueous solution at 32% of MA by the company HENKEL or such as alkyl (C 8 -C 20 ) amidoalkyl (C 1 -C 6 ) betaines in particular TEGOBETAINE® F 50 sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.
On peut également utiliser des tensioactifs cationiques parmi lesquels on peut citer en particulier (liste non limitative) : les sels d'amines grasses primaires, secondaires ou tertiaires, éventuellement polyoxyalkylénées ; les sels d'ammonium quaternaire tels que les chlorures ou les bromures de tétraalkylammonium, d'alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, de trialkylbenzylammonium, de trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium ou d'alkylpyridinium; les dérivés d'imidazoline ; ou les oxydes d'amines à caractère cationique.Cationic surfactants can also be used, among which mention may be made of specific (non-exhaustive list): the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary, possibly polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides to cationic character.
Le(s) agent(s) tensioactif(s) anionique(s) différents des acides hydroxy-2alkyléther carboxyliques sont généralement présents à raison de 1 à 30 % en poids, de préférence de 3 à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Anionic surfactant (s) other than hydroxy-2alkyl ether acids carboxylic acids are generally present in an amount of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Le(s) agent(s) tensioactif(s) amphotère(s) ou non ioniques sont généralement présents à raison de 0,5 à environ 15% en poids, de préférence de 1 à 5% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.The amphoteric or nonionic surfactant (s) are generally present at from 0.5 to about 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La quantité et la qualité des tensioactifs sont celles suffisantes pour conférer à la composition finale un pouvoir moussant et/ou détergent satisfaisant.The quantity and quality of the surfactants are those sufficient to give the final composition satisfactory foaming and / or detergent power.
Dans la composition selon la présente invention, la totalité des tensioactifs détergents représente généralement de 4 à 50% en poids et de préférence de 6 à 35% en poids et plus particulièrement de 8 à 25% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.In the composition according to the present invention, all of the detergent surfactants generally represents from 4 to 50% by weight and preferably from 6 to 35% by weight and more particularly from 8 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition de l'invention peut également contenir au moins un additif choisi parmi les épaississants, les parfums, les agents nacrants, les conservateurs, les filtres solaires, les polymères anioniques ou non ioniques ou amphotères, les polymères cationiques, les protéines, les hydrolysats de protéines, les céramides, les pseudocéramides, les acides gras à chaínes linéaires ou ramifiées en C16-C40 tels que l'acide méthyl-18 eicosanoique, les hydroxyacides, les vitamines, le panthénol, les huiles végétales, les huiles minérales et les huiles de synthèse, les agents antipelliculaires et tout autre additif classiquement utilisé dans le domaine cosmétique qui n'affecte pas la stabilité et les propriétés des compositions selon l'invention.The composition of the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen from thickeners, perfumes, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sun filters, anionic or nonionic or amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers, proteins, hydrolysates proteins, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched chains C 16 -C 40 such as 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vegetable oils, mineral oils and synthetic oils, anti-dandruff agents and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field which does not affect the stability and the properties of the compositions according to the invention.
Ces additifs sont présents dans la composition selon l'invention dans des proportions pouvant aller de 0 à 50% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. La quantité précise de chaque additif est déterminée facilement par l'homme du métier selon sa nature et sa fonction.These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in proportions possibly ranging from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The precise quantity of each additive is easily determined by a person skilled in the art according to its nature and its function.
Selon un mode préféré de l'invention, les compositions selon l'invention comprennent en outre un ou plusieurs polymères cationiques.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise in in addition to one or more cationic polymers.
Les polymères cationiques utilisables conformément à la présente invention peuvent être choisis parmi tous ceux déjà connus en soi comme améliorant les propriétés cosmétiques des cheveux traités par des compositions détergentes, à savoir notamment ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A-0 337 354 et dans les demandes de brevets français FR-A-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 et 2 519 863. The cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen among all those already known per se as improving the properties hair cosmetics treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in the applications for French patents FR-A-2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.
De manière encore plus générale, au sens de la présente invention, l'expression "polymère cationique" désigne tout polymère contenant des groupements cationiques et/ou des groupements ionisables en groupements cationiques.Even more generally, within the meaning of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" means any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups which can be ionized into cationic groups.
Parmi tous les polymères cationiques susceptibles d'être utilisés dans le cadre de la
présente invention, on préfère mettre en oeuvre les dérivés d'éther de cellulose
quaternaires tels que les produits commercialisés sous la dénomination « JR 400 » par la
société UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, les cyclopolymères, en particulier les
homopolymères de sel de diallyldiméthylammonium et les copolymères de sel de
diallyldiméthylammonium et d'acrylamide en particulier les chlorures, commercialisés
sous les dénominations « MERQUAT 100 », « MERQUAT 550 » et « MERQUAT S » par
la société MERCK, les polysaccharides cationiques et plus particulièrement les gommes
de guar modifiées par du chlorure de 2,3-époxypropyl triméthylammonium
commercialisées par exemple sous la dénomination « JAGUAR C13S » par la société
MEYHALL.
On peut également utiliser les polymères qui sont constitués de motifs récurrents
répondant à la formule :
dans laquelle R10, R11, R12 et R13, identiques ou différents, désignent un radical alkyle
ou hydroxyalkyle ayant de 1 à 4 atomes de carbone environ, n et p sont des nombres
entiers variant de 2 à 20 environ et, X- est un anion dérivé d'un acide minéral ou
organique.Among all the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salt and of acrylamide in particular chlorides, marketed under the names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550" and "MERQUAT S" by the company MERCK, cationic polysaccharides and more particularly guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride sold for example under the name "JAGUAR C13S" by the company MEYHALL.
It is also possible to use the polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula: in which R 10 , R 11 , R 12 and R 13 , identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X - is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
Selon l'invention, le ou les polymères cationiques peuvent représenter de 0,001 % à 10% en poids, de préférence de 0,005% à 5% en poids, et encore plus préférentiellement de 0,01 % à 3 % en poids, du poids total de la composition finale.According to the invention, the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition.
Le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable peut être constitué uniquement par de l'eau ou par un mélange d'eau et d'un solvant cosmétiquement acceptable tel qu'un alcool inférieur en C1-C4, comme l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, le tertiobutanol, le n-butanol ; les alkylèneglycols comme le propylèneglycol, les éthers de glycols. The cosmetically acceptable medium can consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a lower C 1 -C 4 alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tertiobutanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.
De préférence , la composition comprend de 50 à 95 % en poids d'eau par rapport au poids total de la composition.Preferably, the composition comprises from 50 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions détergentes selon l'invention présentent un pH final généralement compris entre 3 et 10. De préférence, ce pH est compris entre 4 et 8. L'ajustement du pH à la valeur désirée peut se faire classiquement par ajout d'une base (organique ou minérale) dans la composition, par exemple de l'ammoniaque ou une (poly)amine primaire, secondaire ou tertiaire comme la monoéthanolamine, la diéthanolamine, la triéthanolamine, l'isopropanolamine ou la propanediamine-1,3, ou encore par ajout d'un acide, de préférence un acide carboxylique tel que par exemple l'acide citrique.The detergent compositions according to the invention generally have a final pH between 3 and 10. Preferably, this pH is between 4 and 8. Adjusting the pH at the desired value can be done conventionally by adding a base (organic or mineral) in the composition, for example ammonia or a (poly) amine primary, secondary or tertiary such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propane diamine, or by adding a acid, preferably a carboxylic acid such as for example citric acid.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent contenir en plus de l'association définie ci-dessus des agents régulateurs de viscosité tels que des électrolytes, ou des agents épaississants. On peut citer en particulier le chlorure de sodium, les scléroglucanes, les gommes de xanthane, les alcanolamides d'acide gras, les alcanolamides d'acide alkyl éther carboxylique éventuellement oxyéthylénés avec jusqu'à 5 moles d'oxyde d'éthylène tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination "AMINOL A15" par la société CHEM Y, les acides polyacryliques réticulés et les copolymères acide acrylique / acrylates d'alkyle en C10-C30 réticulés. Ces agents régulateurs de viscosité sont utilisés dans les compositions selon l'invention dans des proportions pouvant aller jusqu'à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The compositions in accordance with the invention may contain, in addition to the combination defined above, viscosity regulating agents such as electrolytes, or thickening agents. Mention may in particular be made of sodium chloride, scleroglucans, xanthan gums, alkanolamides of fatty acids, alkanolamides of alkyl ether carboxylic acid optionally oxyethylenated with up to 5 moles of ethylene oxide such as product sold under the name "AMINOL A15" by the company CHEM Y, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and acrylic acid / crosslinked C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate copolymers. These viscosity regulating agents are used in the compositions according to the invention in proportions which can range up to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent également contenir jusqu'à 5 % d'agents nacrants ou opacifiants bien connus dans l'état de la technique tels que par exemple les palmitates de sodium ou de magnésium, les stéarates et hydroxystéarates de sodium ou de magnésium, les dérivés acylés à chaíne grasse tels que les monostéarates ou distéarates d'éthylène glycol ou de polyéthylèneglycol, les éthers à chaínes grasses tels que par exemple le distéaryléther ou le 1-(hexadécyloxy)-2-octadécanol.The compositions according to the invention can also contain up to 5% pearlescent or opacifying agents well known in the art such as example sodium or magnesium palmitates, stearates and hydroxystearates sodium or magnesium, acylated fatty chain derivatives such as ethylene glycol or polyethylene glycol monostearates or distearates, ethers with fatty chains such as, for example, distearyl ether or 1- (hexadecyloxy) -2-octadecanol.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent contenir également des synergistes de mousses tels que des 1,2-alcanediols en C10-C18 ou des alcanolamides gras dérivés de mono ou de diéthanolamine. The compositions according to the invention may also contain foam synergists such as C 10 -C 18 1,2-alkanediols or fatty alkanolamides derived from mono or diethanolamine.
Les compositions conformes à l'invention peuvent être utilisées pour le lavage et le traitement des matières kératiniques telles que les cheveux, la peau, les cils, les sourcils, les ongles, les lèvres, le cuir chevelu et plus particulièrement les cheveux.The compositions according to the invention can be used for washing and treatment of keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp and more particularly hair.
En particulier, les compositions détergentes selon l'invention sont des shampooings, des gels-douche et des bains moussants.In particular, the detergent compositions according to the invention are shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths.
Les compositions de l'invention peuvent également se présenter sous forme d'après-shampooing à rincer ou non, de compositions pour permanente, défrisage, coloration ou décoloration, ou encore sous forme de compositions à rincer, à appliquer avant ou après une coloration, une décoloration, une permanente ou un défrisage ou encore entre les deux étapes d'une permanente ou d'un défrisage.The compositions of the invention can also be in the form of conditioner to rinse or not, compositions for perm, straightening, coloring or discoloration, or in the form of compositions to be rinsed off, to be applied before or after coloring, discoloration, perm or straightening or between two stages of a perm or straightening.
Les compositions de l'invention peuvent encore se présenter sous la forme de produits démaquillants.The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of products removers.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent se présenter sous forme de gel, de lait, de crème, d'émulsion, de lotion épaissie ou de mousse et être utilisées pour la peau, le cuir chevelu, les ongles, les cils, les lèvres et plus particulièrement les cheveux.The compositions according to the invention can be in the form of gel, milk, cream, emulsion, thickened lotion or foam and be used for skin, leather hair, nails, eyelashes, lips and more particularly hair.
Ces compositions détergentes sont de préférence moussantes et le pouvoir moussant
des compositions selon l'invention, caractérisé par une hauteur de mousse, est
généralement supérieur à 75 mm ; de préférence, supérieure à 100 mm mesurée selon
la méthode ROSS-MILES (NF T 73-404 /ISO696) modifiée.
Les modifications de la méthode sont les suivantes :
The method changes are as follows:
L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé de traitement des matières kératiniques telles que la peau ou les cheveux, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer sur les matières kératiniques une composition cosmétique telle que définie précédemment, puis à effectuer éventuellement un rinçage en particulier avec de l'eau. The subject of the invention is also a method for treating keratin materials such as that the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the materials keratin a cosmetic composition as defined above, then to if necessary rinse, in particular with water.
Ainsi, ce procédé selon l'invention permet le traitement, le soin, le lavage ou le démaquillage de la peau, des cheveux ou de toute autre matière kératinique.Thus, this method according to the invention allows the treatment, care, washing or removing make-up from the skin, hair or any other keratin material.
Dans tout ce qui suit ou ce qui précède, les pourcentages exprimés sont en poids.In everything which follows or what precedes, the percentages expressed are by weight.
L'invention va être maintenant plus complètement illustrée à l'aide des exemples suivants qui ne sauraient être considérés comme la limitant aux modes de réalisation décrits. Dans les exemples, MA signifie matière active.The invention will now be further illustrated by the following examples which should not be considered as limiting it to the embodiments described. In the examples, MA means active material.
On a réalisé deux compositions de shampooings, l'une conforme à l'invention
(composition A) et l'autre comparative (composition B) :
On effectue un shampooing en appliquant environ 1 g de la composition A sur des
mèches de 2,5 g de cheveux décolorés (SA20) préalablement mouillés. On fait mousser
le shampooing, on laisse pauser pendant 10 minutes puis on rince abondamment à l'eau.
On sèche les mèches pendant 10 minutes à 60°C.
On procède selon le même mode opératoire que ci-dessus avec la composition
comparative B.Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of bleached hair (SA20) previously wet. The shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water.
The locks are dried for 10 minutes at 60 ° C.
The procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.
Un panel d'experts a évalué l'aspect des cheveux séchés.
Le test utilisé a pour objet le classement, par un jury, de chaque série de 2 échantillons
en attribuant la note 1 pour la mèche qui se démêle le mieux qui est la plus douce et la
plus lisse et 2 pour l'autre. Les 2 mèches de la même série sont présentées
simultanément au juge. L'analyse statistique des résultats est effectuée à l'aide des
tables de A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124 - 125 1963).
Tous les experts indiquent que les cheveux traités avec la composition A selon l'invention
sont significativement plus doux, plus lisses et se démêlent facilement que ceux traités
avec la composition B.A panel of experts evaluated the appearance of dried hair.
The purpose of the test used is the classification, by a jury, of each series of 2 samples by assigning a score of 1 for the strand that detangles best, which is the softest and smoothest and 2 for the other. The 2 wicks of the same series are presented simultaneously to the judge. The statistical analysis of the results is carried out using the tables of A. KRAMER (Food Technology 17 - (12), 124 - 125 1963).
All the experts indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is significantly softer, smoother and is disentangled easily than that treated with composition B.
On a réalisé deux compositions de shampooings, l'une conforme à l'invention
(composition A) et l'autre comparative (composition B) :
On effectue un shampooing en appliquant environ 1 g de la composition A sur des
mèches de 2,5 g de cheveux décolorés (SA20) préalablement mouillés. On fait mousser
le shampooing, on laisse pauser pendant 10 minutes puis on rince abondamment à l'eau.
On sèche les mèches pendant 10 minutes à 60°C.
On procède selon le même mode opératoire que ci-dessus avec la composition
comparative B.Shampooing is carried out by applying approximately 1 g of composition A to locks of 2.5 g of bleached hair (SA20) previously wet. The shampoo is lathered, left to stand for 10 minutes and then rinsed thoroughly with water.
The locks are dried for 10 minutes at 60 ° C.
The procedure is the same as above with the comparative composition B.
Un panel d'experts a évalué l'aspect des cheveux séchés.
Tous les experts indiquent que les cheveux traités avec la composition A selon l'invention
sont significativement plus doux et se démêlent facilement que ceux traités avec la
composition B.A panel of experts evaluated the appearance of dried hair.
All the experts indicate that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is significantly softer and detangles easily than that treated with composition B.
On a réalisé une composition de shampooing conforme à l'invention :
Les cheveux traités avec la composition selon l'invention sont doux, lisses et se démêlent facilement.Hair treated with the composition according to the invention is soft, smooth and detangles easily.
Claims (16)
- Detergent cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one anionic surfactant of 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic acid type or its salts exhibiting the following structure: in which:R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,X denotes hydrogen or an inorganic or organic cation, such as those resulting from an alkali metal, NH4 +, ammoniums resulting from basic amino acids or ammoniums resulting from amino alcohols, and at least one silicone chosen from:(i) volatile or non-volatile, linear, branched or cyclic and crosslinked or non-crosslinked polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes or polyalkylarylsiloxanes,(ii) polysiloxanes comprising, in their general structure, one or more organofunctional groups chosen from:a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groupsb) (per)fluorinated groupsc) thiol groupsd) carboxylate groupse) hydroxylated groupsf) alkoxylated groupsg) acyloxyalkyl groupsh) amphoteric groupsi) bisulphite groupsj) hydroxyacylamino groupsk) carboxylic acid groups1) sulphonic groupsm) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;(iii) linear polysiloxane(A)-polyoxyalkylene(B) block copolymers of (A-B)n type with n>3;(iv) grafted silicone polymers with a non-silicone organic backbone, which polymers are composed of a main organic chain formed from organic monomers not comprising silicone, on which chain is grafted, inside the said chain and optionally at one at least of its ends, at least one polysiloxane macromonomer;(v) grafted silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone which is grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, comprising a main polysiloxane chain on which is grafted, inside the said chain and optionally at one at least of its ends, at least one organic macromonomer not comprising silicone;(vi) or their mixtures.
- Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that X denotes Na+, K+, NH4 +, ammoniums resulting from lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline, or ammoniums resulting from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, glucamine, N-methylglucamine or 3-amino-1,2-propanediol.
- Composition according to either one of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the R1 radical denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the R1 radical is a radical derived from copra.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the silicones are provided in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the silicones are chosen from:polydimethylsiloxanes with end trimethylsilyl groups,polydimethylsiloxanes with end dimethylsilanol groups, such as dimethiconols,polysiloxanes with aminated groups, such as amodimethicones or trimethylsilylamodimethicones.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the anionic surfactant of 2-hydroxyalkyl ether carboxylic type is present in the compositions at a concentration of between 1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 3 and 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the said silicone is present at a concentration of between 0.001% and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.005% and 5% by weight and in particular between 0.01% and 3% by weight.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it furthermore comprises at least one additional surface-active agent chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures.
- Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the additional surface-active agent or agents are present at a concentration of between 0.5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 30% by weight and more preferably still between 5% and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one additive chosen from thickeners, fragrances, pearlescent agents, preservatives, sunscreens, anionic or non-ionic or amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers, proteins, protein hydrolysates, ceramides, pseudoceramides, fatty acids with linear or branched C16-C40 chains, such as 18-methyleicosanoic acid, hydroxy acids, vitamins, panthenol, vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils or antidandruff agents.
- Composition according to Claim 11, characterized in that the said cationic polymers are chosen from: in which R10, R11, R12 and R13, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20 and X- is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
- Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that it is provided in the form of a shampoo, of a composition for washing the skin, of a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner or of perming, hair-straightening, dyeing or bleaching compositions or in the form of rinse-out compositions, to be applied before or after a dyeing, bleaching, perming or hair straightening or between the two stages of a perming or hair straightening.
- Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims in washing keratinous substances, in particular the hair.
- Use of a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims in disentangling or sleeking the hair or in contributing volume, lightness, softness, suppleness and manageability to the hair.
- Process for the treatment of keratinous substances, such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying, to the said substances, a cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13 and in then optionally rinsing.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9901865A FR2789573B1 (en) | 1999-02-16 | 1999-02-16 | DETERGENT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING ANIONIC HYDROXYALKYLETHER SURFACTANT AND SILICONE AND USES THEREOF |
FR9901865 | 1999-02-16 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1029535A1 EP1029535A1 (en) | 2000-08-23 |
EP1029535B1 true EP1029535B1 (en) | 2004-03-24 |
Family
ID=9542083
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP00400216A Expired - Lifetime EP1029535B1 (en) | 1999-02-16 | 2000-01-27 | Cosmetic tensidic compositions containing anionic hydroxyalkylether surfactant and a silicone and their uses |
Country Status (7)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP1029535B1 (en) |
JP (1) | JP2000247848A (en) |
AT (1) | ATE262314T1 (en) |
CA (1) | CA2298182A1 (en) |
DE (1) | DE60009184T2 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2218078T3 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2789573B1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE10053727A1 (en) † | 2000-10-30 | 2002-05-16 | Kao Chemicals Europe Sl | Compositions comprising hydrophobic silicone oils and alkyl ether carboxylates |
FR2873291B1 (en) * | 2004-07-26 | 2006-10-20 | Oreal | FOAM CLEANING COMPOSITION |
FR2883175B1 (en) * | 2005-03-17 | 2007-05-11 | Oreal | COSMETIC CLEANING COMPOSITION CONTAINING A UREA COMPOUND AND AN ALKYL GLYCOL CARBOXYLATE COMPOUND |
FR2883475A1 (en) * | 2005-03-25 | 2006-09-29 | Oreal | MOUSE EMULSION AND USE THEREOF IN THE COSMETIC FIELD |
Family Cites Families (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB9204175D0 (en) * | 1992-02-27 | 1992-04-08 | Unilever Plc | Cleansing composition |
GB9302130D0 (en) * | 1993-02-03 | 1993-03-24 | Unilever Plc | Cleasing composition |
GB9613944D0 (en) * | 1996-07-03 | 1996-09-04 | Procter & Gamble | Cleansing compositions |
DE69708836D1 (en) * | 1997-03-12 | 2002-01-17 | Showa Denko Kk | Detergents and cleaning agents |
-
1999
- 1999-02-16 FR FR9901865A patent/FR2789573B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2000
- 2000-01-27 AT AT00400216T patent/ATE262314T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2000-01-27 DE DE60009184T patent/DE60009184T2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2000-01-27 ES ES00400216T patent/ES2218078T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2000-01-27 EP EP00400216A patent/EP1029535B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 2000-02-15 CA CA002298182A patent/CA2298182A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2000-02-16 JP JP2000038421A patent/JP2000247848A/en active Pending
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CA2298182A1 (en) | 2000-08-16 |
DE60009184T2 (en) | 2005-02-17 |
FR2789573A1 (en) | 2000-08-18 |
EP1029535A1 (en) | 2000-08-23 |
FR2789573B1 (en) | 2002-07-26 |
ATE262314T1 (en) | 2004-04-15 |
DE60009184D1 (en) | 2004-04-29 |
ES2218078T3 (en) | 2004-11-16 |
JP2000247848A (en) | 2000-09-12 |
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