FR2778563A1 - Composition for hydrating skin - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition for hydrating, softening and/or fighting against dry skin comprises at least one lipase.

Description

The subject of the present invention is the use of at least one lipase

  in a cosmetic composition for moisturizing and / or softening the skin, both

  face than body, even scalp.

  It also relates to a cosmetic treatment process by topical route,

  to moisturize and / or soften the skin and / or treat dry skin.

  We know that the skin tends to dry out due to its exposure to air and sun; the loss of water at the surface also leads to a loss of water in the stratum comeum. Therefore, it is important that the skin is well hydrated and does not undergo water loss which could lead to wilting of the skin,

  and therefore its premature aging, drying, even scaling.

  Also, in the cosmetic field, it is common to incorporate in the compositions used moisturizers, that is to say hygroscopic substances which cause rehydration of the skin by uptake of

  atmospheric water and / or by retaining water from the skin.

  Among the numerous moisturizers, polyols are most commonly used, and in particular propylene glycol and glycerol which are water collectors because of their hydroxyl groups; so a glycerol molecule captures six

water molecules.

  The disadvantages of propylene glycol and glycerol are however to bring

  a stickiness to the compositions which contain them in large quantities.

  The subject of the invention is a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition

  to solve the problems mentioned above.

  The Applicant has in fact surprisingly discovered that the use of a lipase makes it possible to hydrate and / or soften the skin and / or fight against

dry skins.

  Lipase has already been used in the cosmetic field for its enzymatic activities on active precursors. Thus, this use has been described in patent applications or patents EP 709081, EP 710478 and EP 713696

filed by the Applicant.

  Lipase also has the advantage of being easy to introduce into cosmetic compositions and of giving less tacky compositions than

  those that contain a large amount of propylene glycol or glycerol.

  The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for moisturizing and / or softening the skin and / or combating dry skin, characterized in that a composition is applied to the skin comprising in a medium

  cosmetically acceptable an effective amount of at least one lipase.

  The composition according to the invention containing an effective amount of at least one lipase thus makes it possible to fight against dehydration and drying of the skin, and consequently against its aging, such as the yellow complexion, the appearance

  of papier-mâché or withered, and sagging tissue.

  The invention therefore also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for combating aging of the skin, with the exception of wrinkles and fine lines, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a composition comprising in a medium cosmetically acceptable an effective amount of at least one lipase. Another subject of the invention is the use of an effective amount of at least one lipase for the preparation of a dermatological composition for treating dry skin. Lipase is an enzyme known to hydrolyze triglycerides into mono and diglycerides, glycerol and free fatty acids. It is in particular used in detergents (see the article "Lipases as detergent components", H. Andree et ai., Joumal of Applied Biochemistry, 1980, vol. 2, pages 218 to 229) in order to allow the elimination of greasy stains such as those from frying fats, oils, sebum or oily cosmetics such as lipsticks. Due to its property of cutting triglycerides, it has been used in the cosmetic field in immobilized form to cleanse the

  skin (see for example US-A-4556554).

  The lipase according to the invention must be sufficiently stable to retain its enzymatic activity. It belongs to the group of enzymes of classification EC 3.1.1.3., Which corresponds to a lipase which cuts the ester bonds in positions 1 and 3 of a triglyceride. It can be chosen for example from those sold under the trade names "lipase SP644" and "lipolase 100 L" by the

Novo Nordisk company.

  Lipase is therefore present in the composition in an amount effective to have a hydrating effect on the skin. It can be used in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 10 to 25

  % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Preferably, the composition according to the invention is devoid of other agents

  moisturizers, such as glycerol or propylene glycol.

  The term “cosmetically acceptable or dermatologically acceptable medium” means any medium physiologically acceptable for the skin and compatible with

  the aim of the present invention.

  The product according to the invention is preferably devoid of acids from C6 to C22

  and esters of acids from C6 to C22, such as stearic acid, mono, di or tri-

esters of C6 to C22 of glycerol.

  The composition according to the invention can be in all the galenical forms normally used for topical application, and for example in the form of aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solutions, hydrophilic or lipophilic gels, microemulsions, water-in-emulsions oil or oil-in-water or water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil having the appearance of a cream or gel, optionally capable of foaming, in the form of aerosol, or in the form of vesicular dispersions containing ionic and / or nonionic lipids. These dosage forms are prepared according to the

  usual methods of the fields considered.

  In particular, the emulsions can be in the form of milks which are fluid emulsions. A fluid emulsion has in practice a viscosity

  less than 8 poises (0.8 Pa.s), measured with the Contraves MTV viscometer,

  that is, which flows under its own weight.

  1o It is also particularly advantageous to be able to obtain aqueous gels containing little or no oil. Any type of gelling agent can be used for this, and for example a carboxyvinyl polymer (carbomer), an acrylic copolymer such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, a polyacrylamide.

or a polysaccharide.

  When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5% to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic field. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are then present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may, in addition, contain

lipid vesicles.

  In known manner, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, fillers, filters and coloring matters. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetic and / or dermatological field, and for example from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the

  fatty phase, in the aqueous phase and / or in the lipid spherules.

  As oils which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned mineral oils (petroleum jelly oil), vegetable oils (sunflower oil), synthetic oils (isopropyl myristate, perhydrosqualene, lanolin, Purcellin oil), oils silicone (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols and fatty acids can be added to these oils (cetyl alcohol, acid

stearic, lanolin alcohol).

  As W / O emulsifier which can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of Steareth 100 from the company ICI, dimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Coming 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Coming, dimethicone copolyol / cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Abil EM97 by the company Goldschmidt and cetyldimethicone

  copolyol sold under the name Abil EM90 by the company Goldschmidt.

  N / A As an O / W emulsifier which can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of triceteareth-4 phosphate sold under the name Hostaphat KW 340 N by the company Clariant, steareth-21 sold under the name Brij 721 by the company ICI Surfactants, steareth -2 sold under the name Brij 21 by the company ICI surfactants, ceteth-10 sold under the name Simulsol 56 by the company Seppic, ceteareth-20 sold under the name EumulginB-2 by the company Henkel, beheneth-10 sold under the name Mergital B 10 by the

Henkel company.

  As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of those indicated above as well as natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as

  aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica.

  As hydrophilic active agents, it is possible to use proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives,

vitamins and hydroxy acids.

  As lipophilic active agents, retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, essential oils can be used. , Acid

salicylic and its derivatives.

  UV filters can also be used in the composition according to the invention,

  lipophilic or hydrophilic nature, and oxides of titanium and zinc.

  The following examples are given by way of illustration in order to better understand the invention. The quantities indicated are percentages by weight,

  unless otherwise stated. The compositions are prepared in a conventional manner.

  Example 1: oily phase hydrating care cream: Triceteareh-4 phosphate (hostaphat KW 340 N sold by Clariant) (surfactant) 5% 3s Mineral oil 8% Vaseline 5% Dimethicone 3% Cyclomethicone 3% Triclosan (preservative) 0, 2% Aqueous phase PEG-20 (organoleptic) 3% Lipase SP 644 10% Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.4% Polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / laureth-7 (sepigel 305 sold by Seppic) (gelling agent) 0.8 % Water qs 100% Example 2: Hydrating milk Oily phase: Steareth-2 (surfactant) 3% Steareth-21 (surfactant) 2% PPG-15 stearyl ether (surfactant) 20% Triclosan (preservative) 0.1% Aqueous phase: Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.5% Lipase SP644 5% polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / Laureth-7 (sepigel 305 sold by Seppic) (gelling agent) 0.3% Water qs 100% Example 3: Carbomer hydrating gel 0, 7% Dimethicone copolyol (Abil B 8851 sold by Goldschmidt) (organoleptic) 1.5% PEG-20 (organoleptic) 0.5% Triethanolamine 0.35% Li pase SP 644 3% Imidazolidinyl urea (preservative) 0.3% Phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.3% EDTA (sequestrant) 1% Water QSP 100% Example 4: hydrating lotion EDTA (sequestrant) 0.1% Imidazolidinyl urea (preservative) 0.2% phenoxyethanol (preservative) 0.3% Lipase SP 644 5% Water 100%

Claims (6)

  1. Cosmetic process for moisturizing and / or softening the skin and / or combating dry skin, characterized in that a composition is applied to the skin comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a quantity effective of at least one lipase.   2. Cosmetic treatment method for fighting against aging of the skin, with the exception of wrinkles and fine lines, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin a composition comprising in a medium   cosmetically acceptable an effective amount of at least one lipase.   3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that the lipase is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 10 to 25 % by weight per   relative to the total weight of the composition.   4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims,   characterized in that the composition is in the form of aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solutions, hydrophilic or lipophilic gels,   microemulsions, water-in-oil or oil-in-water or water-in- emulsions   oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil.   5. Use of an effective amount of at least one lipase for the preparation   of a dermatological composition for treating dry skin.   6. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the lipase and / or the dermatological composition are as described in one of claims 3 and 4.