FR2719217A1 - Preparation for coloring the skin. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation for coloring the skin, containing a hydroxycarbonyl compound having self-tanning properties, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and which contains at least 5% by weight of a sugar hexol.

Description

The invention relates to a preparation for coloring

  tion of the skin, comprising a hydroxycarbonylated compound having self-tanning properties in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, said preparation containing at least 5% by weight of a sugar hexol or hexavalent sugar alcohol. It has long been known that compounds which have a ketol group, OH II I

-CH-CH-

  preferably hydroxymethyl ketones, in particular dihydroxyacetone but also methylglyoxal, exert a self-tanning action on human skin. This self-darkening effect is essentially based on a Maillard reaction between the ketol group of these compounds and

amino acids in the skin.

  It is also known that the color shade of this reaction can also be enhanced by the addition

specific adjuvants.

  Thus it is proposed for example in documents EP-A-0 456 545 and EP-A-0 500 446 to replace natural melanin with indole derivatives reconstituted in formulations containing inter alia polyols such as solubilizers. These indole derivatives must, however, be introduced in relatively high quantities, because of their low capacity to

fixation on the skin.

  According to document FR-A-2 085 208, artificial freckles can occur with formulations containing dihydroxyacetone and a water-soluble dye. Due to the solubility in water of these dyes, however, fixing to the skin is not

that very weak.

  On the other hand, it was proposed to prepare formulas

  Self-tanning lations (for example US patent 3,920,808 or US patent 4,708,865) containing, in addition to dihydroxyacetone, unsaturated ketones, for example lawsone or juglone. However, these produce a tint

  yellowish, which is not natural.

  It has now been established that a coloration of the skin similar to natural tanning and having greater stability can be obtained when the preparation for coloring the skin contains, in addition to a compound

  hydroxycarbonylated, sugar hexols.

  The objective of the present invention was then to provide preparations for coloring the skin producing a tint similar to natural tanning, remaining over a long period of time. It has now unexpectedly been found that such preparations for coloring the skin are obtained when added to them.

sugar hexol.

  Preferred embodiments are: a) preparations for coloring the skin, in

  which the compound having self-

  dihydroxyacetone or methyl-

glyoxal.

  b) Preparations for coloring the skin, in

  which sugar hexol is D-sorbitol.

  c) Skin coloring preparations containing 0.1 to 10, preferably 1 to 6% by weight of a skin coloring compound and 5.0-50.0, preferably about 10.0-20 0.0% by weight of at least one sugar hexol each time relative to

the whole preparation.

  d) preparations for coloring the skin, o the weight ratio between the sugar hexol and the compound for

  skin color is greater than 1.5.

  e) preparations for coloring the skin, in which the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is chosen from the group consisting of: water; a mixture of water and one or more organic components; a mixture of fats and one or more organic solvents; f) Preparations for coloring the skin, in which the organic components or the solvents are chosen from the group comprising: C1-4 short chain alcohols, long chain Clo-18 monoalcohols, C2- polyalcohols 8, alkylene glycols, glycol ethers, alkyl acetates, C1-3 monoalkyl ethers of ethylene glycol and esters of C14-16 saturated fatty acids, in particular ethanol, cetyl alcohol , propylene glycol, monoethyl ether

  ethylene glycol and ethylene monobutyl ether

  glycol. g) Preparations for coloring the skin, in which the fats are chosen from the group comprising:

  vegetable and animal oils, mineral oils,

  fatty acids, fatty alcohols, esters

  fatty acids and fatty acid triglycerides.

  h) Preparations for coloring the skin, in which the pH is between 2 and 10, preferably

between 3 and 6.

  i) Preparations for coloring the skin containing at least one UV filter for protection against

UV-A and / or UV-B radiation.

  j) preparations for coloring the skin containing surfactants, moisturizing agents, calming agents, opacifying agents, dihydroxyindole derivatives, vitamins, perfumes, gelling agents, thickening agents,

  pigments or preservatives.

  The invention further relates to a method for coloring the skin with a shade of color similar to natural tanning, characterized in that a preparation as described above and below is applied to the skin, in particular while the preparation is mixed with pigments with other dyes, which mask the shade of color of the dye fixed on the skin, for example tartrazine (CI 19140), brilliant black Solagen (CI 28440), brilliant blue Acid Blue q (CI 42090) or solvent violet (CI 60725), on a

  shade of makeup preferably brown.

  Preferred compounds having self-tanning properties are those having a ketol group: O OH III

-C - CH

  in particular dihydroxyacetone, methylglyoxal, aldehyde

  glyceric, erythrulose, alloxane, dialdehyde 2,3-

  dihydroxysuccinic, 2,3-dimethoxy-succinic dialdehyde,

  2-amino-3-hydroxysuccinic dialdehyde, 2- dialdehyde

  benzylamino-3-hydroxysuccinique. Preferred sugar hexols are hexitols, which can be obtained by reduction from glucose,

  mannose, galactose and fructose, especially D-

  sorbitol, D-mannitol and D-dalcitol.

  If the cosmetic preparation according to the invention is used as a means for tanning the epidermis

  human, it comes in various forms, classic-

  used for this type of use. Thus it can be presented in particular in the form of oily or oily alcoholic lotions, of emulsions, such as for example in the form of cream or as milk in the form of oily-alcoholic, oily-aqueous or aqueous gels -alcoholic, or in the form of solid sticks

or be packaged as an aerosol.

  It can contain cosmetic adjuvants, which are usually used in this type of agent, such as thickeners, plasticizers, wetting agents, surfactants, preservatives, anti-foaming agents, perfumes, waxes , lanolin, propellants, dyes and / or pigments, which color the agent itself, UV filters for protection against UV-A and / or UV-B radiation

  and other components usually used in cosmetics.

  An oil, a wax or other fatty substances, a monoalcohol can be used as solubilizers

  lower or a lower polyol or mixtures thereof

  this. Part of the monoalcohols or polyols particular

  highly preferred ethanol, isopropanol, propylene-

glycol and glycerol.

  A preferred embodiment of the invention is an emulsion in the form of a cream or milk and comprises, in addition to the compound of formula I, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, in particular fatty acid triglycerides, fatty acids, lanolin, natural or synthetic oils or waxes and emulsifiers

presence of water.

  Other preferred embodiments are constituted by oily lotions based on natural or synthetic oils or waxes, on lanolin; fatty acid esters, in particular fatty acid triglycerides, or oily-alcoholic lotions based on a lower alcohol, such as ethanol, or a glycol, such as propylene glycol, and / or a polyol, such as glycerol, and fatty acid oils, waxes and esters, such as

fatty acid triglycerides.

  The cosmetic agent according to the invention can also be in the form of an alcoholic gel, comprising a

  or several lower alcohols or polyols, such as ethan-

  ol, propylene glycol or glycerol, and a thickener, such as silica. Oily-alcoholic gels contain

  in addition a natural or synthetic oil or wax.

  Solid sticks are made from natural or synthetic waxes and oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, lanolin and other fatty substances. The subject of the invention is also cosmetic sunscreen agents which can comprise at least one hydroxycarbonylated compound having self-tanning properties, as well as a sugar hexol and filters

against UV-A and / or UV-B.

  Appropriate UV-A filters are available

  example cinnamic acid derivatives, benzylidene-

  camphor and its derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid and its derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, benzophenone derivatives and dibenzoylmethane derivatives. These UV filters are, as a general rule, present in preparations at a rate of 0.2 to 10% by weight, per

  compared to compounds with self-tanning properties.

  If an agent is packaged in an aerosol, conventional propellants are generally used for this purpose, such as

  alkanes, fluoroalkanes and chlorofluoroalkanes.

  The preparation according to the invention may optionally contain thickeners: For thickening, it is possible to use the thickening agents or gelling agents common for man of the

  trade, such as guar gum, heterobio-

  polysaccharides, xanthan gum, scleroglucans,

  cellulose derivatives, such as methyl-

  cellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropyl-

  cellulose, the alkaline salts of carboxymethylcellulose,

and polyacrylic acids.

  Another subject of the invention consists of cosmetic preparations containing: a) an α-hydroxycarbonylated compound having self-tanning properties, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the preparation, b) a hexol sugar, preferably at a rate of 5 to 20% by weight relative to the composition, c) optionally a colored pigment, in particular a pigment with an effect based on a lamellar substrate coated with a metal oxide, preferably at a rate of 1 to 15% by weight relative to the composition, or d) optionally another dye, preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 0.1% by weight relative to the composition, e) optionally titanium dioxide, to reason from 1 to

  10% by weight relative to the composition.

  Even in the absence of other developments, it must be considered that a person skilled in the art can make use of it.

  broader from the description above. Examples that

  follow should therefore be considered as illustrative only, and in no case as limiting the invention

in some way.

  Full disclosure of all patent applications, patents and publications mentioned above and below is introduced by

  reference in this patent application.

  Example 1: Tinted self-tanning milk% A Arlatone 983 S (2) 1.50 Arlatone 985 (2) 2.50 Brij 76 (2) 1.50 Liquid paraffin oil (Art. No. 7162) (1) 5.00 Miglyol 812 (3) 5.00 B D-sorbitol liquid (Art. No. 2993) (1) 10.00

Preservative (1) q.s.

  Water, demineralized complement to 100.00 C Dihydroxyacetone (Art. No. 10150) (1) 5.00 Water, demineralized (1) 5.00 Preparation: Heat phase A to 750C, phase B to 80 C. Introduce slowly , stirring, phase B in phase A. Homogenize. Cool while stirring, add phase C around 40 C. Finally, slowly incorporate the pigments while stirring. Remarks: Formula contained as a preservative 0.05% of propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. Merck 7427) 0.15% of methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. Merck 6757) References: 1. E. Merck, Darmstadt 2. HERE, Essen 3. H ls Troisdorf AG, Witten 4. Kronos Titan GmbH, Leverkusen Application example 1: The composition prepared according to example 1 was applied

on various test subjects (d).

  The shades thus obtained were evaluated after 24 hours (Table 1) according to the method called Lab-Method (for example according to Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, vol. A 20, pages 262-263, 1992, Verlag Chemie) L = brightness a = proportion of red b = proportion of yellow c = intensity of color h = shade of color (chromovir angle)

  and with the respective corresponding color shades-

  without preparation for coloring the skin (a), with preparation for coloring the skin (b), without

  D-sorbitol (c) and with only 5% by weight of sorbitol.

  The preparation according to the invention provides an intensity of

  color (c) significantly higher than other preparations

  tions. In subjects 1 and 2 it even appeared with small amounts of sorbitol a lower intensity of

  color only with sorbitol-free preparations.

Table 1

  Color intensity (c) 24 h before application Preparation (a) (b) (c) (d) Subject

1 16.29 21.36 20.51 23.02

2 8.81 15.18 15.03 15.45

3 18.63 21.88 23.13 24.98

  Example 2: Tinted self-tanning cream% A Emulsifier E 2155 (2) 8,000 Liquid paraffin oil (Art. No. 7162) (1) 12,000 Pourable paraffin (Art. No. 7158) (1) 2,000 Miglyol 812 (3) 3,000 Myristate isopropyl (4) 2,000 B Propanediol-1,2 (Art. No. 7478) (1) 4,000 D-liquid sorbitol (Art. No. 2993) (1) 12,000

Preservative q.s.

  Water, demineralized complement to 100,000 C Dihydroxyacetone (Art. No. 10150) (1) 5,000 Water, demineralized 11,800 Aqent preservative: 0.05% propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (Art. Merck 7427) 0.15% methyl 4hydroxybenzoate (Art. Merck 6757) References: 1. E. Merck, Darmstadt 2. Th. Goldschmidt, Essen 3. Huls Troisdorf AG, witten 4. Henkel, Drsseldorf Preparation: Heat phase A to 75 C, phase B to 80 C Slowly introduce phase B into phase A.

  Homogenize. Shake, add phase C around 40 C.

1l

Claims (10)

Claims   1. Preparation for coloring the skin, containing a hydroxycarbonylated compound having self-tanning properties, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, characterized in that it contains at least 5% weight of a sugar hexol.   2. Preparation for coloring the skin according to claim 1, characterized in that the compound having self-tanning properties is dihydroxyacetone or methylglyoxal.   3. Preparation for coloring the skin according to   one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that qcue hexol is D-sorbitol.   4. Preparation for coloring the skin according to   any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in   what it contains 0.1 to 10, preferably 1 to 6% by weight of a skin coloring compound, and 5 to 20, preferably about 10% by weight of at least one sugar hexol each time compared to the whole preparation. 5. Preparation for coloring the skin according to   any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in   what the weight ratio between the sugar hexol and the   skin coloring compound is greater than 1.5.   6. Preparation for coloring the skin according to   any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in   that the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is selected from the group consisting of: water; a mixture of water and one or more organic components; a mixture of fats and one or more organic solvents. 7. Preparation for coloring the skin according to   any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in   that the pH is between 2 and 10, preferably between 3 and 6. 8. Preparation for coloring the skin according to   any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in   that it contains at least one UV filter for protection   tion against UV-A and / or UV-B radiation.   9. Preparation for coloring the skin according to   any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in   what it contains surfactants,   hydration agents, calming agents, opaque agents   fiants, dihydroxyindole derivatives, vitamins, perfumes, gelling agents, thickening agents,   pigments, preferably effect pigments, in particular   especially pearlescent pigments or transparent pigments, dyes masking the color of the dye fixing to   the skin, or preservatives.   10. Process for coloring the skin with a   shade of color similar to natural tan, characteristic   laughed at by applying a preparation to the skin   according to any one of claims 1 to 9.