FR2569086A1 - Method for making garments from composite fabrics, composite fabrics and garments obtained by implementing the method - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to textiles and the clothing industry. According to the invention, for making a garment, the pieces cut out to the appropriate template (and which are intended to be mounted and assembled by stitching) are produced from a composite textile material, formed from an assembly of two layers of fabrics joined by lines of stitching, i.e. a first layer of the fabric 1 forming the right side of the garment and a second layer 2 counter-stitched onto the first and consisting of knitted fabric, having elastic deformation characteristics, such as a jersey fabric, this fabric forming the second counter-stitched layer and constituting, after mounting of the garment, the lining of the latter, giving the garment a flexible and elastically deformable quality in order to respond to the stresses of the wearer's movements. The invention relates to the composite fabric and the garments thus produced. Application to the production of top garments which are flexible and crease-resistant.

Description

The present invention relates to a method for making clothes either custom or in industrial clothing.

The invention also relates, as a new intermediate product, to the composite fabric resulting from the implementation of the method with a view to making garments as well as the garments produced according to the new method.

The clothing industry proceeds by cutting pieces of fabric, to the appropriate template, and mounting them with stitching assembly, the assembly constituting the outer envelope forming the place of the vertically, and on the internal faces of the garment coming into contact with underwear, there is the inner lining which plays a multiple role; this lining aims to give all of the pieces to be assembled and the unity of the garment an outfit, that is to say resistance to momentary deformations and permanent deformations, especially in places where the fabric is more specially requested.

The lining aims to also give the ease of the garment by a smoother contact allowing the whole garment to slide on the underwear according to the movements of the user; finally, the lining provides an element of thermal comfort through the interface constituting an insulating air layer between the main layer forming the area and the lining.

Clothes made from conventional outerwear and comprising an outer place fabric and a lining, however, provide an element of rigidity which is sometimes difficult for the user to bear because of the discomfort it provides by preventing total freedom of movement and the user feels "embarrassed around".

This drawback could be remedied by systematically using flexible and extensible outer fabrics which would lend themselves more flexibly to movements; however, this method has its limits precisely because of the presence of the lining; it could only develop in the presence of garments which are generally not lined, such as garments meeting specific needs; sportswear, ski spindles, etc ...

In addition, the use of clothing from fabrics of flexible place and consequently of which the network of threads is relatively loose allowing a great flexibility of response of the fabric to the stresses of the movements of the user, risks quickly deforming and d '' lead to a relaxation of the tissue and the formation of pockets; so that the use of outside fabrics or fabrics of comfortable place and responding without constraint to the movements of the users could not develop.

The invention aims to remedy this drawback and allows precisely the making of clothes in flexible and not very rigid fabrics, therefore allowing great comfort for the user who feels perfectly free to move, while avoiding the risk of permanent deformations and relaxation of flexible and deformable tissues, devoid of constraints and rigidity, used to constitute the body of the vertebra.

To this end, the invention relates firstly to a process for making outer garments such as jackets, coats, dresses, skirts, pants or suits, characterized in that the pieces cut to the appropriate size (and intended to be assembled and assembled by sewing) from a composite textile material, formed by an assembly of two layers of fabric joined by lines of stitching, either a first layer of the fabric forming the place of the garment and a second layer backstitched on the first and made of knitted mesh fabric, having elastic deformation characteristics, such as a jersey fabric, this fabric conforming to the second quilted layer and constituting, after fitting the garment, the lining of the latter, by ensuring the garment a flexible and elastically deformable holding to respond to the stresses of the user's movements.

We understand that in principle the invention aims to use a new composite material consisting of two layers assembled together.

The first layer or outer layer will preferably be made from a flexible fabric having an airy or "frothy" texture.

This fabric can deform, lending itself to the movements of the user.

The use of a fabric of this type, with a light and airy texture also makes it possible to benefit from the wrinkle-resistant qualities of this type of fabric which can be crumpled up folded in a suitcase and kept in this position to be reused without presenting any creases.

But this type of fabric precisely because of its loose texture would have the disadvantage of risking deformation depending on the stresses due to the movements of the user and leading to the formation of pockets or "curled" parts due precisely sagging parts of the tissue.

Now, according to the characteristic of the invention previously defined, these flexible pieces of fabric are themselves stitched against a lining formed from a jersey fabric which has elastic deformation properties.

This means that the jersey fabric as a lining will allow the entire composite fabric to respond to the stresses linked to the user's movements, thereby avoiding the rigidities and the feeling of constraints and discomfort "around the edges" that can be felt. the wearer of the garment; in fact insofar as the fabric lends itself by elastically deformable extension to the movements, the fabric follows the movement of the user without making one feel the rigidity that traditional clothing can provide.

But there is no risk, thanks to the lining in jersey quilted, to permanently freeze momentary stresses by the formation of pockets or loosened areas.

Indeed, the jersey fabric fulfills its role of elastic return member which, once the momentary stress has passed, exerts a pull back on the entire piece to bring it back to its initial position; so that while allowing the response to deformations and movements, the jersey lining ensures the permanent hold of the piece of fabric and of the whole garment in the initial situation.

And the joining of the two layers of fabric forming the composite material used in the context of the invention ensures at the same time a minimum of clearance between the two layers by ensuring relative movements of one relative to the other in the areas separating two seams; while these seams, however, do not provide a linear effect on the fabric of the jersey lining, elastically deformable, over the entire surface, but linearly.

A development of the invention also makes it possible to simplify the manufacturing operations, both industrial and custom.

In fact, according to this development, a first fabric intended to constitute the place of the garment and a second lining fabric formed by a knitted mesh fabric such as a jersey fabric are assembled by stitching lines. a coupon of composite fabric of great length in which are cut according to the appropriate patterns and templates, the parts intended to be assembled to achieve the vertically.

The invention also relates to the garment obtained by the implementation of the above process and the garment is characterized in that the parts assembled and assembled by sewing to shape the garment are made of a composite textile material obtained by assembling a first layer of fabric forming the place of the garment and a second inner layer constituting the lining, the second layer consisting of a knitted fabric with an elastically deformable mesh such as a jersey fabric, the two layers of fabric being stitched by seam lines.

The invention also relates, by way of an intermediate product, to the composite fabric obtained by the implementation of the above method and the composite fabric is characterized in that it consists of a first layer of fabric intended to shape the place of the garment and of a second layer consisting of a knitted fabric with elastic and deformable mesh such as a jersey fabric, the two layers being backstitched against each other by seam lines, the fabric composite being able to be cut into pieces according to the appropriate templates and shapes for the preparation of clothing.

According to a more particular characteristic of the invention, the seam lines allowing the backstitching of the two layers of fabric forming the composite textile material are formed of parallel lines spaced by a distance of between two and ten centimeters and preferably of l 'order of four to five centimeters.

According to another characteristic, the lines of pitting ensuring the joining of the two layers are parallel straight lines.

According to an advantageous characteristic of the invention, the fabric forming the first layer or place fabric is chosen with regular geometric decorations and the stitching lines ensuring the linear joining from the first layer and the second layer of elastically deformable knitted fabric are practiced in such a way as to follow these decorative patterns, thus being embedded and invisible in these patterns.

According to a more advantageous form among the embodiments of the invention, the place fabric is chosen with a broad and airy texture.

According to a variant, the pieces of place fabric are cut to ensure the fitting of the garment so that the bias of the place fabric is in the direction of the stresses linked to the movements of the user, the direction of stress of the corresponding fabric. to the latter's deformability department.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge from the description which follows and which is given in connection with a few embodiments presented by way of nonlimiting examples.

Figure 1 shows a sectional view of the composite fabric used for the implementation of the invention in two positions corresponding to its rest position in the upper part of the figure and its extended position in the lower part.

FIG. 2 represents an exploded view of a fabric coupon used in the context of the implementation of the invention.

According to the invention, the method aims to firstly assemble two pieces of fabric to obtain a composite material.

A first layer or outer layer, constituting the place of the composite material and the place of the garment consists of a fabric with a relatively loose texture allowing great flexibility of the fabric and its wrinkle resistance.

Figure 2 shows under reference 1 the upper piece of fabric or place fabric which is shown here with decorative alignments, which were chosen only for the purposes of the illustration of the invention But any coupon or piece of fabric can be used.

This place fabric 1 is itself stitched together on a second fabric or lining fabric 2 formed of a knitted knitted fabric and more especially of a fabric of the jersey type.

It is known that this jersey fabric has, due to its texture obtained by a set of stitches, possibilities of elastic deformation corresponding to the stretching of the threads in the set of stitches which are then recalled in position.

These two fabrics are assembled by stitching lines 3,3 ′, 3n which consist of parallel lines.

In the example shown here, the stitching lines are advantageously arranged along the decorative lines X, 4 ′, 4 "so as to be embedded in this decoration or they are practically invisible.

Under these conditions, a composite material is obtained, the elements of which are assembled and locked together while allowing limited play and the relative movement of one piece of fabric relative to the other, at least in the zones which separate two puncture lines.

We see on Figure 1 the schematic mechanism of the game of the two pieces of fabric assembled to conform a composite textile.

In the upper part of Figure 1 the composite fabric is at rest; in the lower part of the figure we see that under the effect of a stress due to a movement of the user the part of the fabric is stretched in the direction of the arrows F1, Fil '.

The upper fabric or place fabric 1 having been chosen fairly loose and of a wide texture can lend itself to the stresses by responding to a tensile force.

The lower fabric 2 lends itself easily to this stress given its characteristics of flexibility and stretch and elastic deformation.

When the stress according to the arrows F1, F1 ′ has ceased the lower fabric 2 then plays the role of return member and is brought back elastically to its initial position corresponding to the upper part of FIG. 1 by retracting in the direction of the arrows F2, F2 '.

And the lower tissue is thus returned to its starting position.

Thanks to the joining which is obtained at the seams 3.3 ′ in this retraction movement, the lower fabric 2 brings the place fabric 1 back to its initial position and consequently ensures the return of the entire composite fabric in its starting shape by avoiding freezing the upper fabric 1 (which is flexible and deformable but without elasticity) in the extension positions which it would keep following repeated pull-ups.

The extensibility of the upper fabric 1 will be all the more marked as the woven fabric used will, for example, be placed at an angle, that is to say (contrary to what is shown in FIG. 1, so that the extension according to arrows F1 and F1 'is oblique to the son rights.

The upper fabric or place fabric 1 can itself be a knitted fabric with mesh which will make it possible to benefit from the advantageous characteristics of deformability and flexibility of this type of fabric.

In general, the jersey fabric used as a lining will be chosen so as to compensate for the characteristics of the upper or place fabric; in the case where the upper fabric is very loose to the point of constituting only a kind of facade mesh, being possessed that a very weak own holding, in this case we will use a jersey of thick and highly elastic lining; which will ensure the deformations necessary to respond to stresses but will always ensure the return to the initial position and therefore the non-deformability of the assembly.

The bites 3.3 ′ are spaced apart by a width which will be adapted to the characteristics of the fabric but which generally lie between two to ten centimeters and preferably around 4 to 5 centimeters; in the case of the sleeves, a higher density may be desired, the bites being spaced three to four centimeters apart.

The stitching point intended to obtain the assembly of the two materials forming the composite fabric will be sufficiently tight to ensure a joining of the two layers at their junction points; but the tightening of the stitch will be adapted to the thickness of the fabric so as to avoid over-emphasized marking and the formation of a groove which could appear unsightly.

By using a medium tightening stitching point, the two elements are firm and clean, while avoiding too tight a marking of the composite fabric at the seams, especially in the case where the upper fabric has been chosen, as we 'a recommended, with characteristics of thickness and sparkling to ensure the flexibility of the whole.

It can be seen that it is possible, under these conditions, to industrially produce coupons of composite fabric according to the invention formed from a piece of decorative fabric or place fabric 1 assembled by topstitching on a lower layer formed of a jersey 2 .

it is easy with industrial stitching machines to make the coupons of composite fabrics quilted in large width; this will make it possible to cut the pieces of fabric by the meter according to the needs of the users and in the case of industrial confection it will be possible to cut the pieces of stacked fabric so as to conform mattresses that are industrially cut using known methods.

It will be understood that the device and the method of the invention achieve a considerable advantage since it avoids the work of preparing the lining both at the level of industrial production and that of tailor-made production; indeed the tailor (industrial or custom) can cut the pieces of fabric and mount them directly, the assembly being done without having to worry about the placement of the lining which is thus directly and immediately in position.

The jersey having pleasant contact characteristics, achieves here a lining presenting all the advantages of the traditional lining.

But in addition the garment produced in accordance with the invention will have characteristics of wearing particularly pleasant and comfortable not only thermally, thanks to the properties of comfort and thermal insulation of the jersey but also and especially at the level of the comfort and freedom because the garment lends itself to all movements and solicitations of the user without causing discomfort or resistance depending on the movements of the user.

We thus obtain an extremely pleasant to wear garment which follows exactly the movements of the limbs by constantly adapting and to the shape; thus the garment extends during a momentary stress and then returns to its starting position while continuing to marry in an elastic and flexible manner the body of the user, without ever making one feel discomfort and even making one forget his presence.

The garment according to the invention can be adapted to all styles and all presentations; it allows the realization of clothes for women or clothes-for men.

It will be more particularly appreciated by the people leading an active life in particular on the professional level and who are called for example to move and to make various and multiple and not repetitive movements (to handle files, the telephone, a keyboard of machine or computer, driving a car, carrying luggage or towels etc ...).

All these operations can be carried out without discomfort and in the greatest ease.

However, these people must also present themselves in impeccable attire, for example during receptions, visits, meetings, conferences, etc.

The garment produced in the context of the invention allows any movement and all its activities without "tiring" the fabric and without presenting the deformations, heavinesses, pockets or curled movements which appear quickly in the case of conventional fabric clothing.

The garment produced in accordance with the invention can have wrinkle-resistant qualities, in particular when the upper fabric is produced from a loose and wide texture allowing great flexibility.

And under these conditions the garment can be folded up and kept in a suitcase, for example during long trips and it can be taken out without presenting the wrinkles which are linked to a folded position and often compressed (for example in a suitcase ) which could be extended over several days.

Another advantage of the garment manufacturing method according to the invention is to allow simplification in the cutting and assembly operations.

Indeed the flexibility and the holding which characterize the complex material produced in accordance with the invention allow assemblies and simplified cuts allowing the garment to be produced from a number of inserts or fewer cuts.

Figures 3,4 and 5 give examples of the embodiment of these cutout shapes.

Figure 3 shows a single cut to make a half (right or left) of a jacket while
Figures 4 and 5 give examples of cutouts allowing the production of an armhole from a single cutout.

We see according to Figure 3 that the single piece allows for a single cut the front part 5 as the rear part 6 of a half of the jacket, this cut being secured with a symmetrical cut to make the body of the jacket.

The clamps 7 and 7 'make it possible, in a known manner, to give the shape and the curve of the blank which, thanks to the flexibility and the specific flexibility of the material used, lends itself very faithfully to the morphology of the carrier subject.

The opening 8 into which the clamps 7 and 7 'open constitutes the connection of the armhole.

And according to FIGS. 4 and 5, it can be seen that it is possible to produce, from a single piece provided with cutouts 9 or 10, a sleeve (which will relate to the edges of the opening 8.

It is understood in these conditions that it is possible to produce in accordance with the invention, a garment from four cuts while ensuring the best conditions of comfort and comfort in "wearing" for the subject.

By its flexibility of adaptation of the fabric, in the context of garments made in confection, the method of the invention allows garments to be produced in series in a more limited number of sizes; the same size can indeed adapt to a wider range of morphological dimensions.

Claims (10)

1 - Method for making outerwear such as jackets, coats, dresses, skirts, pants or suits, characterized in that the pieces cut to the appropriate size are produced (and intended to be assembled and assembled by sewing) to from a composite textile material, formed by an assembly of two layers of fabric joined by lines of stitching, either a first layer of fabric (1) forming the place of the garment and a second layer (2) stitched on the first and consisting of knitted mesh fabric, having characteristics of elastic deformability, such as a jersey fabric, this fabric conforming the second quilted layer and constituting after fitting the garment the lining of the latter, ensuring that clothing a flexible and elastically deformable outfit to respond to the stresses of the user's movements. 2 - Method according to claim 1, characterized in that is assembled by stitching lines (3.3 ') a first fabric (1) intended to constitute the place of the garment and a second fabric (2) of lining formed d 'a knitted mesh fabric such as a jersey fabric, so as to obtain a long composite fabric coupon from which are cut according to the appropriate patterns and templates, the parts intended to be mounted to make the garment. 3 - Garment obtained by the implementation of the method according to one of claims 1 or 2 above and characterized in that the parts assembled and assembled by sewing to shape the garment are made of a composite textile material obtained by assembly a first layer of fabric (1) forming the place of the garment and a second inner layer (2) constituting the lining, the second layer consisting of a knitted fabric with an elastically deformable mesh such as a jersey fabric, both layers of fabric being stitched by seam lines (3.3 '). 4 - As an intermediate product, composite fabric obtained by the implementation of the method according to one of claims 1 or 2 above, and for the production of a garment according to claim 3, characterized in that '' it consists of a first layer of fabric (1) intended to shape the place of the garment and of a second layer (2) consisting of a knitted mesh fabric and elastically deformable such as a jersey fabric, the two layers being stitched against each other by seam lines (3.3 ′), the composite fabric being able to be cut into pieces according to the appropriate templates and shapes for the preparation of clothing. 5 - composite fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that the seam lines (3.3 ′) allowing the backstitching of the two layers of fabric forming the composite textile material are formed by parallel lines spaced by a distance between two and ten centimeters and preferably of the order of four to five centimeters. 6 - Composite fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that the stitching lines (3,3 ') ensuring the joining of the two layers are parallel straight lines. 7 - Composite fabric according to one of claims 4,5 or 6, characterized in that the fabric (1) forming the first layer or place fabric is chosen with regular geometric decorations (4,4 ', 4 " ), and the stitching lines (3.3 ′) ensuring the linear joining from the first layer and the second layer of elastically deformable knitted fabric are practiced so as to follow these decorative patterns, thus being embedded and invisible in these patterns. 8 - Garment according to claim 3, characterized in that it is made from a fabric according to claim 6, the lines of stitching along parallel lines and the lines of stitching matching the decorative patterns of the place fabric in which they are drowned and invisible. 9 - Garment according to claim 3, characterized in that the pieces of place fabric are cut to ensure the mounting of the garment so that the bias of the place fabric is in the direction of the stresses related to the movements of the user, the direction of stress of the fabric corresponding to the direction of deformability of the latter. 10 - Garment according to one of claims 3,8 or 9 above, in particular garment of the jacket type, characterized in that it is produced from four inserts or cutouts corresponding, respectively to the right and left halves of the body of the jacket and the two armholes, the garment being shaped by the set of pliers of known type.