FR2500748A1 - NOVEL HAIR STAINING COMPOSITION CONTAINING MIXED PLANT POWDER, NATURAL COLORING DYE AND DILUTING AGENT - Google Patents

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A POWDER CONTAINING A MIXTURE: 1 AT LEAST ONE POWDER OBTAINED FROM UNUSED PLANTS IN THE STATE OF PARTICLES OF WHICH AT LEAST 95 HAVE A DIAMETER LESS THAN 180 MICRONS AND PREFERREDLY 125 MICRONS, 2 AT LEAST 125 MICRONS, 2 COLORANT OF NATURAL ORIGIN, AND AT LEAST ONE SOLID THINNER, SUCH AGENT BEING CHOSEN FROM THOSE PRESENTING IN THE FORM OF A SOLUTION OR A DISPERSION AT 40 IN WATER A VISCOSITY AT AN AMBIENT TEMPERATURE LOWER OR EQUAL TO 150CPO. THIS COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF POWDER IS INTENDED FOR DYING THE HAIR AFTER DILUTION.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a composition for dyeing

  hair in the form of powder and intended to be diluted in water before its application on the hair. More particularly, the present invention proposes to provide a composition capable of driving after dilution.

  to a dyeing preparation better known as "Cata-

  Plasma dye "creamy consistency and easy to apply

on the whole of the hair.

  Since the advent of synthetic dyes, the dyeing of hair has become a very common operation and is carried out using aqueous dye preparations that are used as such or that are diluted at the time of dyeing. use with revealing agents that are the most

often oxidizing agents.

  These preparations can be presented under different

  forms and more particularly in the form of creams, liquids

  of, gels, of more or less thick consistency and whose

  Solvent and water contents are variable.

  The coloring substances used in these prepara-

  At present, most of the rations are of

  theetic, which makes it possible, by using them alone or as a mixture, to give the hair a great variety of shades

particularly sought after.

  These dyes for dyeing hair can be either oxidation dyes that is to say whose power

  dye is developed only by the presence of an oxy-

  dation, either direct dyes that can dye on their own

  hair without the addition of any developer.

  It should also be mentioned among the substances

  dyes so-called natural dyes and especially those of o-

vegetable rig.

  This class of dyes, which includes not only the powders or extracts of plants but also the isolated molecules responsible for the coloring power, present with respect to the synthetic dyes, the non-negligible advantage of being most often harmless which is not the case from some

  synthetic dyes responsible for various phenomena of

  lergie. Among the dyes of vegetable origin which have found a wide application for many years and still in favor in many countries, mention must be made of the henna powder of greenish yellow color obtained from the leaves of the henna

(Lawsonia inermis).

  The active substance in henna is lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) present in henna leaves in the form of henna

of glucoside.

  Natural dyes of vegetable origin and more

  particularly henna have various disadvantages

  also poor storage stability in the supports

containing Veal.

  However, it is possible to use the powder of henna leaves as such, that is to say without support, which is then diluted at the time of use with the help of hot water.

  a kind of pelt which is then applied to the hair.

  However, in this case, there are certain disadvantages during the preparation and application of the composition on the

  because it is not always possible to obtain an excellent

  slow impregnation due to the poor consistency of the

  composition obtained from coarsely ground powder.

  In addition, it is very difficult to hope for perfect reproducibility of the hues obtained because the content of active ingredient (lawsone in the case of henna) very often varies from one batch

  to the other according to the origin of the plant and its

harvest.

  In addition to this disadvantage the pH conditions can not always be optimal for dyeing and it is

  often difficult to be able to

  permanent solution with a good resistance, this being linked to the presence in the dye mass of a large proportion

of agents that coat the hair.

  It has been found that these various disadvantages related

  the use of dyes of natural origin, and in particular

  particular vegetable species, could be avoided by mixing them

  various ingredients that may confer on the composition a

  consistent consistency thus facilitating the application on the whole.

  ble of the hair. This result is obtained according to the invention

  associating natural dyes and more particularly of originals

  vegetable gin to an unexcelled vegetable powder of granulometry

  determined and to a diluent.

  "Non-depleted vegetable powder" means a powder obtained from a plant substance whose

  active ingredients have not been eliminated by an ex-

  traction. This non-depleted vegetable powder, while giving the composition a good creaminess after dilution, facilitates its elimination and brings both softness and shine

to the hair.

  The diluting agent makes it possible to compensate for the variations due to fluctuations between the physical characteristics of several batches of the same substance of natural origin, in particular the thickening power without modifying the dye concentration, the only guarantee of a good reproducibility of the

dyeing power.

  The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition intended for the dyeing of the hair after dilution, this composition containing as a mixture: 1) at least one powder obtained from undried plants in the form of particles of which at least 95% is by weight have a diameter less than 180 microns and preferably microns and more particularly to 80 microns, 2) at least one dye of natural origin and more particularly of vegetable origin, and 3) at least one solid diluent agent, said agent being chosen from those having, in the form of a solution or a dispersion at 40% in water, a viscosity at room temperature

less than or equal to 150 cPo.

  The unexpanded plant powder is present in the compositions according to the invention in a content of between 3 and 95% and preferably between 5 and 85% by weight relative to the total weight. It can be obtained by grinding and subsequent sieving of stems, flowers, leaves, roots, fruits, seeds etc ... of various plants including chamomile flowers, feverfew, hibiscus, safflower, of marigold; walnut leaves, henna, Indigotier, sumac, elderberry; rubiaceous roots (madder, woodruff, cleavers); turmeric roots, orcanette; of red sandalwood,

  Campeche, Brazil, Fernambuco; of alder bark, argan

  dung beetle, sumac; annatto seeds; stigmas of saffron; rhizomes of bloodthirsty; whole plants of gaude, -4-lichens, goldenrod, as well as wheat, rye, barley,

  liquorice, anise, basil, thyme, marjoram, canned

  nelle; corn root; leaves of cassia obovata, chestnut, rosemary, sage; raids of mals; cinchona bark; of chestnut fruits and Psyllium seeds. Since these plants are used in the unexhausted state, it is important that if they contain active ingredients they are

non-toxic and / or non-irritating.

  According to the invention, and according to the desired cosmetic effect, the unexpanded vegetable powders obtained from chamomile flowers, chamomile flowers, walnut leaves, madder roots, leaves are preferably used. cassia obovata, chestnut leaves, stems

  mals and chestnut fruit.

  According to a variant of the invention, the powder of non-depleted plants may be used in combination with a variable proportion of a powder obtained from plant exhaustion residues, that is to say after extraction of the active principles, by various processes such as maceration, digestion, decoction,

infusion or leaching.

  In this case, the particles of exhaustion residues must also have a particle size of less than 180 microns, preferably 125 microns, and more particularly

80 microns.

  Among the various species likely to lead to a plant exhaustion residue powder, mention may be made of

  hawthorn, eucalyptus, gentian, cinchona, sapo-

  arnica, chamomile, horse chestnut, witch hazel, rhubarb, sarsaparilla, tormentil, valerian and henna. By dye of natural origin is meant on the one hand the coloring extracts of vegetable or animal origin obtained by extraction and on the other hand these same dyes obtained by

synthetic route.

  Among the dyes of vegetable origin which can be used, mention may be made especially of those present in

  Garance roots, Henna leaves, Golden leaves

  bobbin, Indigo leaves, nuts bugs, flowers of

  mushroom, algae, lichens, mushrooms or woods.

  Among the dyes of animal origin which can be used, mention may be made in particular of those obtained from

  Kermes, cochineal or molluscs such as Murex.

  The coloring extracts are obtained by means of conventional extraction methods such as maceration, diges-

  decoction, infusion or leaching.

  These extracts are in solution and can be used as such by being absorbed on the plant powder or

  be spray-dried or lyophilized.

  Among the dyes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of: maclurine (2,3 ', 4,4', 6-pentahydroxybenzophenone), brasiline (7,1llb-dihydrobenz -1,2- d_7 indeno / -1,2-d_7 pyran 3,6a, 9,10

  (6H) -tetrol or C.I. Natural Red 24), hematoxylin (7,11b-dihydric

  L-benzyl-indeno-1,2-d-pyran 3,4,6a, 9,10 (6H) -pentol, alizarin (1,2-dihydroxy anthraquinone or CI Mordant Red 11), purpurin (1,2 , 4-trihydroxy anthraquinone or CI Natural Red 8), keretic acid (1,2,4,7-tetrahydroxy-5

  methyl 6-anthraquinone carboxylic acid), juglone (5-hydroxy-1,4-hydroxyethyl)

  naphthoquinone, lawsone (2-hydroxy 1,4-naphthoquinone), benzaldehyde derivatives and more particularly 2,4-dihydroxy

  benzaldehyde, 2,4,5-trihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-hydroxy-4-

  methoxy benzaldehyde, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy benzaldehyde and 4-hydroxy-3,5-dimethoxybenzaldehyde, protocatechic aldehyde

  (or 3,4-dihydroxy benzaldehyde) or indigo (/ _A2'2-

  biindoline_7-3,3'-dion). According to the invention it is of course quite

  possible to use as a colourant a powder of co-occurring

  non-depleted lorants activated by their active principle (s).

  So the crushed henna leaves can be activated by its

active ingredient lawsone.

  When in powder form, the dye of o-

  nature as defined above must also pre-

  have a particle size less than 180 microns, preferably

  at 80 microns and more particularly at 80 microns.

  Its concentration in the compositions according to the

  may vary, depending on the nuances that are sought to

  between 0.05 and 30% and preferably between 0.1 and 20%

  weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The solid diluting agent of the compositions according to the invention

  The invention is generally present in a proportion of between 75% and 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Among the substances likely to give, in the form

  of a 40% solution or dispersion in water, a screw

  cosity less than or equal to 150 cPo at room temperature, there may be mentioned in particular: - so-called "instant" food powders such as for example milk powder, cocoa powder or tea powder, certain sugars and polyols such as for example, glucose, sucrose, lactose, sorbitol or soluble starch, and certain inorganic or organic salts compatible with the capillary medium. such as for example sodium carbonate or chloride, potassium chloride, sodium citrate, sodium and potassium double tartrate, lactate

of sodium and sodium ascorbate.

  In addition to the three main ingredients of

  According to the invention, these can also contain synthetic dyes of unnatural origin in a proportion which may vary between 0.05 and 15% of the total weight of the product.

  composition and in particular those chosen from

  nitro, anthraquinone, indoami-

  or azole or triphenylmethane.

  In addition, the compositions according to the invention may also contain conventional adjuvants such as: alkalinizing or acidifying agents, for example

  alkali carbonates, or organic acids, such as

lides,

  thickening agents such as the derivatives of this

  lulose, gums, pectins, alginates or car-

  ghenates, - conditioning or conditioning agents for hair, - wetting agents,

  bactericidal agents and perfumes.

  At the time of use, the composition according to the invention

  It is mixed with milk or preferably lukewarm water

  optionally containing a solvent such as lower alcohols

  or glycols, in a ratio by weight of milk or water /

  dre between 1 and 10 and preferably between 1 and 5.

  The viscosities of the compositions thus obtained may vary between 3 and 45 poise, but preferably between 5 and 35 poise. The pH of the compositions obtained, according to the presence of an alkalinizing agent or an acidifying agent, may vary between 2.5 and 12 and preferably between 3 and 10.5. The present invention also relates to a hair dyeing method of applying to a part or all of the hair, a composition as described above after dilution and to let it act for a time that can be between 3 minutes and 2 hours and preferably between 5 minutes and 45 minutes, then rinse thoroughly

hair in the water.

  This rinsing may be followed by a shampoo

  pooing in order to obtain a better elimination of the composition

dyeing.

  Thanks to the excellent lubricity of the dyeing composition is obtained by this method a good distribution on

  the hair and therefore a uniform coloring.

  Several examples of the compositions will now be given by way of illustration and without any limiting character.

according to the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

  - Powder of walnut leaves of granulometry- <to gov ....................

  10g - corn stalks powder with particle size <2Oi ................... DTD: ... 45g - Powder of saponaire exhaustion residues of granulometry, < at 90i ................... 30g - Juglone.1,5g - Anhydrous sodium carbonate ................ 3 , 25g - Trioxymethylene powder .05g - Perfume. 0.05g - Lactose q.s.p.100g This composition in powder form is added at the time of use of 3 times its weight of water at 360C. On..DTD: thus obtains a creamy brown mixture of pH 9.3 and a screw

cosity of 25 poises.

  This composition applied for 30 minutes on a

  natural dark blond hair gives hair after rinse

  owing, shampooing and drying a very aesthetic golden beige reflection;

the hair is shiny.

EXAMPLE 2

  - Chestnut leaf powder particle size, <10p ............ 40g - Polysaccharides from the carob seed sold by UJNIPECTINE under the name of VIDOGUM L 175 .... 3g - Dye powder of henna leaves of particle size, <to 701i ............ 15g - Lawsone ................... 1lg - Citric acid ................ 4g Degreased instant milk powder qs 100g This powder is mixed at the time of use with

3.5 times its weight of water at 40'C.

  an unctuous mixture of herbaceous odor, of a yellowish green color with a pH of 4 and a viscosity

is 27 poises.

  After a 30 minute exposure time on a light brown hair, rinsing, shampooing and drying, the hair has an intense golden coppery reflection and the hair, in

  its whole body is present and swelling.

EXAMPLE 3

  - Wheat flour with a grain size <to 50-p ................... 25g - Powder of residues of exhaustion of chestnut of granulometry <to 12011. ...... 15g - Hawthorn Depletion Residue Powder of particle size <to 10O ..

  ....... 6g - Protocatechic aldehyde ........... 2g Lawsone ............. DTD: ...... 0,29 - Perfume .................... 0.02g Soluble starch qsp ...... DTD: ....... 100g At the moment of being applied to the hair, powder..DTD: above is dispersed in 1.5 times its weight of water at 440C.

  This gives a creamy orange-brown composition

  having a viscosity of 13 poises and a pH of 5.1.

  After applying this composition for 25 minutes, rinsing and drying of the hair is obtained on

  dark blonde hair a very elegant golden reflection.

  The hair is also soft to the touch and -9- shiny.

EXAMPLE 4

  - Corn stalks powder of granulometry at 20i .........................

  ......... 30g - Saponaire depletion residue powder of particle size <90 .................... 20g - Root dye powder of particle size <at 120p ................... 15g Purpurine ...................... ............ 4g Alizarin .................. DTD: ................ 0.5g - Anhydrous Sodium Carbonate ................ 10g - Trioxymethylene Powder .................. 0,5g - Defatted instant milk powder qs 100g This composition is in the form of a powder which at the time of its use is diluted with 2.5 times its weight of water at 41 C. This gives a creamy mixture of color. .DTD: red violet of pH 9.8 and viscosity of 22 poises.

  By applying this mixture on natural brown hair for 40 minutes, we obtain after rinsing, shampooing

  and drying a shiny hair with a beautiful mahogany reflection.

EXAMPLE 5

  - Liquorice root powder of granulometry <at 0lop ..................

  . 30g - Turmeric rhizome powder with particle size <90 ............. DTD: ......... 25g - Gum adrdgante .......... .................. lg - Red pectin 3 G sold by UNIPECTINE Company ..................... ...... DTD: ....... lg Maclurine ................................. 5g - Amino-1-nitro-2-hydroxy-4-benzene .......... 0.2g - Trioxymethylene powder ........ DTD: .......... 0,5g - Trisodium sodium citrate qs ........ 100g Before its application on the hair, this powder, is diluted with 1.5 times its weight of water at 38 C. One obtains a creamy mixture very odorant having a pH of 7.3 and a DTD: viscosity of 14 poises.

  After 20 minutes of laying on light brown hair, rinsing and drying, the hair has a bright golden reflection

and a slight spicy fragrance.

-10-

EXAMPLE 6

  - Chestnut leaf powder with particle size <100lp ............

  ........ lOg - Powder of maize stalks of particle size at 20p ... log Powder of hawthorn exhaustion residues of grain size <at aOp .......... DTD:. ........ 30g - Brasiline ..................... -... 5g - Hematoxylin ..... DTD: ... ................. 0,5g - Anhydrous Sodium Carbonate ................ 8g - Tetradecyl Trimethylammonium Bromide .. 4g - Fragrance ............... DTD: .. 0,2g - Lactose qsp .................... The above powder is mixed at the time of use with 2.25 times its weight of water at 390 ° C. A creamy composition having a pH of 9.7 and a viscosity of 14 poises is obtained.

  After application for 25 minutes on light blonde hair, rinsing, shampooing and drying of the hair it has a pearlescent sheen. The hair also has the

shine and body.

EXAMPLE 7

  - Chestnut leaf powder with particle size, <100p .............

  ...... 40g - Polysaccharides derived from carob seed sold by UNIPECTINE under the name VIDOGUM L 175 ............ 3g - Citric acid ........ .................... 4g - Dye powder of henna leaves with particle size, <701p ................ .... 15g Henna Dye Extract ................... 1,5g - Defatted Instant Milk Powder qs ... 100g This powdery composition is mixed at the time of use with 3.5 times its weight of water at 40'C. The unctuous mixture obtained has a pH of 4 and a viscosity of about 27 poises.

  By application on light brown hair, rinsing, shampooing and drying the hair has a reflection

  coppered gold of slightly lower intensity than the e-

  xemple 2. The hair has body and swelling.

-11- 2500748

EXAMPLE 8

  - Turmeric root powder with grain size <90 ....................

  ... 20g - Walnut leaf powder with a particle size of 9p ............... DTD: ................... .9.15g - Particle size powder at 110p .................................... 3g - Corn stalks powder with a grain size of 20i ...................................... 25g - Carbonate Sodium ......................... 7g Hematoxylin ..................... ... DTD: ........ 3,5g - Trisodium sodium citrate qsp ......... lOOg Before application to the hair, dilute this..DTD: powder with 2, 25 times its weight of warm milk at 370C.

  An unctuous mixture of pH 9.5 is obtained and the

viscosity is 23 poises.

  Applied 30 minutes on a non-permed blonde hair this mixture gives it after rinsing and shampooing a

golden ash reflection.

-12-

Claims (15)

  1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a powder for dyeing the hair after dilution, characterized in that it contains as a mixture: 1) at least one powder obtained from undried plants in the form of particles of which at least 95% have a diameter of less than 180 microns and preferably 125 microns, 2) at least one dye of natural origin, and 3) at least one solid diluent, said agent being chosen from those presenting in the form of a solution or a dispersion at 40% in water a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal to 150 cPo.   2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the powder of undried plants is present in a content of between 3 and 95% and preferably between 5 and 95%.   % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   3. Composition according to any one of the claims   characterized by the fact that the powder of undried plants is obtained by grinding and sieving of   taken from the group consisting of camouflage flowers   thousand, chamomile flowers, walnut leaves, madder roots, cassia obovata leaves, chestnut leaves, corn stalks and chestnut fruit turkey.   4. Composition according to any one of the claims   the above-mentioned plant powder is used in combination with a plant exhaustion residue powder having a particle size distribution   less than 180 microns and preferably 125 microns.   5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the dye of natural origin is present in the composition in a content of between 0.05 and 30% and preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.   6. Composition according to any one of the claims   1 and 5, characterized in that the dye of natural origin is a dye extract of plant origin obtained by extraction of Garance roots, Henna leaves, Orcanette leaves, Indigo leaves, bugs of nuts, -13- 2500748   wild flowers, algae, lichens, mushrooms or wood.   7. Composition according to any one of the   cations 1, 5 and 6, characterized in that the dye of natural origin is a dye extract of animal origin obtained by extraction of kermes, cochineal or mollusc such as Murex.   8. Composition according to any one of the   cations 1 and 5 to 7, characterized in that the dye of natural origin is taken from the group consisting of   maclurine, brasiline, hematoxylin, alizarin, purine   purine, kermesic acid, juglone, lawsone, derivatives   benzaldehyde, protocatechic aldehyde and indigo.   9. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the solid diluent is present in a content of between 5 and 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Composition according to claim 1 or 9, characterized   the fact that the diluent is taken from the group consisting of so-called "instant" food powders such as milk powder, cocoa powder, tea powder,   sugars and polyols such as glucose, sucrose, lac-   toe, sorbitol, soluble starch, and soluble inorganic or organic salts such as carbonate or sodium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium citrate, tartrate   sodium and potassium, sodium lactate and sodium sodium corbate.   11. Composition according to any one of the   preceding cations, characterized in that it also contains at least one synthetic dye of non-natural origin in a proportion of between 0.05 and 15% relative to the total weight of the composition and chosen from the dyes of the benzene series nitrates, anthraquinones, indoamines, azoles or triphenylmethanics.   12. Composition according to any one of the   cations, characterized by the fact that it contains   in addition to conventional adjuvants such as alkaline   lineners or acidifying agents, thickening agents, conditioning or conditioning agents for hair, wetting agents,   bactericidal agents or perfumes.   -14- 13. A method for dyeing hair, characterized in that it consists in applying after dilution in   milk or water, which may contain a solvent, a compound   as claimed in any of the claims   1 to 12, to let said composition act for a time which can be between 3 minutes and 2 hours thick at rinse the hair with water.   14. Process according to Claim 13, characterized in that the composition after dilution has a viscosity of between 3 and 40 poise and preferably between 5 and 35 poise.   15. Process according to any one of the claims   13 and 14, characterized in that the composition after dilution has a pH of between 2.5 and 12 and preferably between 3 and 10.5.