FR2471778A1 - Hair treatment using compsn. contg. lactoalbumin hydrolysate - of specified molecular wt. prepd. by action of an endo:peptidase - Google Patents

Abstract

Process comprises applying a compsn. contg. in an appropriate vehicle an effective amt. of a lactoalbumin hydrolysate free of amino acids and consisting essentially of peptides of MW. 250-5,000. The hydrolysate is obtd. exclusively by the action of an endopeptidase. A compsn. used contains the hydrolysate and at least one anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or mixed detergent. The amt. of hydrolysate is pref. 0.2-25%, esp. 4-20%, based on the total dry solids. The pref. amt. of detergent is 4-20%, esp. 5-10%. Other pref. ingredients are colourants, cationic polymers, fatty acid alkanolamides, cellulose derivatives, long chain polyol derivatives, natural gums, foam stabilisers and preservatives. The pref. application time is from a few to 40-45 mins. The treatment improves the appearance of the hair, gives it a silky touch and makes it more supple and easier to comb out.

Description

 Your present invention relates to a hair treatment process1 in order to improve their appearance and in particular to restore the hair to a silky feel, to facilitate its disentangling and to improve the flexibility of the hair.

 Until now, the compositions used to improve the aesthetic appearance of the hair and facilitate their disentangling contained as active principle a cosmetic resin and more particularly a cationic polymer taken alone or in mixture with an anionic polymer.

 The applicant company noted that a comparable effect could be obtained by treating the hair with a very specific protein hydrolyzate since it is an enzymatic hydrolyzate of lactalbumin obtained under special conditions and consisting essentially of peptides. a certain molecular weight.

 Hair compositions based on proteins obtained by hydrolysis have already been proposed in particular with a view to combating the formation of dandruff.

 It is important to note, however, that these compositions, because of the hydrolysis method used, essentially contained as active compounds s free amino acids, in particular basic amino acids such as arginine, hystidine and lysine.

 If these compositions have been found to have a real anti-dandruff effect, they were on the other hand devoid of any property making it possible to improve the aesthetic appearance of the hair and to facilitate its disentangling.

 The subject of the present invention is a new hair treatment method consisting in applying to the whole of the hair a composition containing in a suitable vehicle a sufficient quantity of a lactal bumine hydrolyzate, essentially free of free amino acids and essentially consisting of peptides having a molecular weight between 250 and 500Q, said hydrolyzate being obtained exclusively by the action of an endopeptidase, allowing the composition to act, and rinsing the whole of the hair.

The main advantage of using an endopeptidase as an enzyme lies in the fact that this type of enzyme cuts the specific peptide bonds inside the polypeptide chains, which makes it possible to obtain peptides essentially free of free amino acids1 which is not the case when the enzymatic system contains an exopeptidase or consists essentially of such an enzyme, because in this case, the cut of the peptide bonds intervenes at the end of the chain
In other words, in order to obtain peptides having a molecular weight between 250 and 5000, it is important that the enzymatic system is free from exopeptidases.

 According to the invention, the enzyme trypsin and / or chymotrypsin which is enzymatically pure, that is to say free from exopeptidases and other enzymes such as lypases and amylases, is used.

 Due to the absence of free amino acids, the hydrolysates obtained under the conditions indicated above are devoid of any odor, which is not, of course, the case with hydrolysates obtained using a conventional enzyme system such as pancreatin.

 I1 follows that with the compositions for implementing the method according to the invention, it is not necessary to have recourse to the addition of a perfume or any other substance capable of masking the odor.

 According to the invention, a cosmetic composition containing 0.2 to 25% by weight of the lactalbumin hydrolyzate, expressed as dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, is applied to the hair.

 The compositions making it possible to carry out the method according to the invention can be in various forms and in particular in the form of a suspension or of a solution in water, in an alcohol such as methanol or isopropanol. , or in a hydroalcoholic mixture, or any other cosmetically acceptable solvent, in an oil, in an emulsion, in a gel or in a cream.

 These compositions in addition to the lactalbumin hydrolyzate can also contain ingredients such as penetration agents, or preservatives which are generally used in cosmetics.

 These compositions can also take the form of a powder for bleaching the hair, the latter being mixed before use with hydrogen peroxide and then applied to the hair.

 After a variable exposure time between 10 and 45 minutes, the hair is then rinsed and dried.

 Furthermore, the compositions may take the form of a shampoo having a clear, opaque or pearly liquid appearance, or else the appearance of a cream or a gel. these compositions in the form of a shampoo constitute another object of the present invention and are essentially characterized by the fact that they contain, in combination with the hydrolyzate of actalbumin, at least one anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric detergent or their mixtures.

 Shampoos generally contain from 0.5 to 10% by weight of lactalbumin hydrolyzate, and from 4 to 20%, but preferably from 5 to 10% by weight (expressed as active material) of a detergent in solution. an aqueous medium.

 Among the anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds as well as their mixture: the alkali salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts or the amino alcohol salts of the following compounds - the alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamides sulfates and ether sulfates, alcoylarylpolyéthersulfates, sulfates monoglycerides, - alkylsulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, a-olefin sulphonates, - the alkyl sulphosuccinates, alcoyléthersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alcoylsulfosuccinamates, - the alcoylsulfoacétates, the alcoylpolyglycérol carboxylates, - the alkyl phosphates, alcoylétherphosphates, - Alkylarcosinates, alkylpolypeptidates, alkyllamidopolypeptidates, alkylisethionates, alkylltaurates.

 The alkyl radical of all these compounds is a linear chain of 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

- fatty acids such as oleic, ricinolelic, palmitic, stearic acid, coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids, carboxylic acids of polyglycolic ethers corresponding to the formula
Alk- (OCH2 - CH2) n - 0C112 = CO2H or the substituent Alk corresponds to a linear chain having 12 to 18 carbon atoms and or n is an integer between 5 and 15.

 Among the non-ionic surfactants which may possibly be used, mention may in particular be made of those described in French patents 2,091,516, 1,477,048 and 2,328,763.

 Other nonionic surfactants of this type are alcohols, alkylphenols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids with a linear fatty chain containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms and most often containing 2 to 30 moles of ethymene oxide. . Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene and propylene oxides, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxides on fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides, polyethoxylated fatty amines, ethanolamides, esters of glycol fatty acids, fatty acid esters of sorbitol, fatty acid esters of sucrose.

 Among the cationic surfactants which can be used, mention may in particular be made of fatty amine salts such as alkyl acetates, quaternary ammonium salts such as chloride, alkyl dimethylbenzylammonium bromide, alkyltrimethylammonium, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium, dimethyldistearylammonium, alkyllamido ethyltrimethylammonium methosulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, imidazoline derivatives. The alkyl radicals in these compounds preferably have between 1 and 22 carbon atoms. Mention may also be made of compounds of a cationic nature such as amine oxides such as alkyl dimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyl dimethylamine oxides.

 Among the amphoteric surfactants which can be used, mention may more particularly be made of alkylamino, mono- and dipropionates, betarnes such as N-alkyl betoines, N-alkyl sulfobetalnes, N-alkylamidobetaines, cycloimidiniums such as alkyllimidazolines, derivatives asparagine. The alkyl group in these surfactants preferably denotes a group having between 1 and 22 carbon atoms.

 The shampoos making it possible to carry out the process according to the invention can also contain usual cosmetic ingredients such as dyes, alkano lamides of fatty acids, cationic polymers such as quaternized vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, cationic cellulosic polymers, etc. , cellulose derivatives such as carDo: 5meth-, or lwhvdroxsmethyl cellulose, esters of long-chain polyols, natural gums, so as to be in the form of a cream or gel, foam stabilizers, preservatives , etc.

 Generally, a satisfactory result in the hair treatment process is obtained by a weekly shampoo.

 In addition, the method according to the invention can be implemented using so-called rinsing compositions or even more known under the name of 11rinse ", these compositions being applied to the hair for a certain time of laying and then rinsed.

 These compositions are preferably in the form of lotions, thickened liquids or gels, and contain the lactalbumin hydrolyzate in a proportion of between 0.3 and 88 by weight, expressed as dry matter, relative to the total weight of the composition.

 Whatever the type of compositions used in the treatment process according to the invention, it is important to allow the composition to act on the hair for a time which can range from a few minutes for shampoos or rinses, to about 40 to 45 minutes for the compositions. bleaching.

 After this exposure time, rinse the hair thoroughly with water and then dry; the hair is silky, soft to the touch, shiny, supple and is easily disentangled by combing.

In order to better understand the invention, we will now give by way of illustration, and without any limiting character, two examples of preparation of the lactalbumin hydrolyzate as well as several examples of the hair treatment process.
EXAMPLE I
25 kg of whey protein concentrate obtained by ultrafiltration (approximately 70% protein on dry matter) are dissolved in 390 kg of deionized calf at 120C.

 The pH of the solution is adjusted to 8 using potassium hydroxide at 20P.

 It is then heated to 500C and 150 g of NOVO trypsin are added (3 to 6 Anson units per g). This enzyme is free from all exopeptidase, lypase and amylase. Incubate at constant pH for 1 hour, using the potassium hydroxide solution to control the pH.

 After 1 hour, another 100g of trypsin is added and the incubation is continued until a total of 5 hours. It is then heated to 800C and this temperature is maintained for 15 min, in order to inactivate the enzyme. Cool to 200C and adjust the pH to 6.8 using 15% hydrochloric acid.

 The solution is concentrated by evaporation to a dry matter content of the order of 30%, then lyophilized.

 The dry hydrolyzate obtained is ground.

This hydrolyzate has the following composition
Total nitrogen ....................... 10.8%
Lactose (by difference) ........... 17.85%
Ash: 8.05%
Fat .......................... 3.67%
Water 1.12%.

EXAMPLE II
10 kg of whey protein concentrate are dissolved in 200 kg of demineralized water, then the solution is warmed to 500C while stirring.

 10 ml of an anti-foaming agent are abutted and the pH is adjusted to 8 using 10% potassium hydroxide, then to 5%.

50 g of crystalline porcine trypsin are then added
NOVO 4500 K (25 Anson units per g), the enzyme being dissolved in approximately 1 liter of whey protein solution.

 Incubate at a pH between 7.9 and 8 with shaking at 500C and, after 1 hour of incubation, another 25 g of trypsin are added.

 The incubation is continued with pH control for a further 2 hours. Finally, the incubation is terminated for an additional 1 hour without adjusting the pH; the final pH is approximately 7.4.

 Then reheated to 800C and maintained for 15 min at this temperature. It is rapidly cooled to 200C, then concentrated by evaporation to a content of about 30 in dry matter. Finally, it is spray dried.

The hydrolyzate thus obtained has the following composition
Total nitrogen ....................... 11.53
Lactose ç 7.5%
Ash ........................... 2.8%
Fat .......................... 6.0%
Water ............................... 4.0%
EXAMPLES OF COMPOSITIONS EXAMPLE A
10 to 15 g of a hair cream having the following composition is applied to hair which has been previously washed and wrung out, of dull appearance and whose hair is difficult to disentangle when combed.
Mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol (90%) and
sodium lauryl sulfate (10% sold under the
name of Lanette SX by the Company
Henkel ...................................... * 14 g
Oleic alcohol .................................. 3 g
Glycol distearate. ........ .. .... ..... 0.5 g
Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol using
20 moles of ethylene oxide sold
under the name of Brij 78 by the Company. ATLAS ..... 3 g
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate obtained according to Example I .. ... .. ... ... . .... 5 g
Water qs. . ...... 100 g
After having left the cream on the hair for 10 minutes, rinse the hair thoroughly with water.

 Wet hair is easily disentangled. After styling and drying under a helmet, the hair has a silky feel, it is shiny and beautiful in appearance.

EXAMPLE B
On dull hair which is difficult to disentangle, a cream obtained on the whole of the hair is obtained by mixing in a bowl of 50 g of a powder for bleaching the hair with 100 g of hydrogen peroxide at 30 volumes.

The powder has the following composition
Sodium persulfate X 30 g
Sodium setasilicate &ommat; 15g
Ammonium sulphate ............................. ... 4 g
Magnesium carbonate ...................... 25 g
Silica .... ................ .. 17 g
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate
obtained according to Example I .. 8 g Ethylenediamine tetracetic acid or 1 g.

 After an exposure time of 45 minutes, rinse the hair thoroughly and dry.

 The hair has a silky touch and is easily detangled, it has a shiny appearance.

EXAMPLE C
On hair that is coarse to the touch and that is difficult to disentangle, a composition is applied in the form of a shampoo containing the following ingredients
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate obtained according to
Example II ................................ 2 g
Alkoyl (C12-Cl4) triethanolamine sulfate
40% in water .............................. 20 g-
Compound of formula R- (OCH -CH) - OCH2-COOH at 50%
in water, R being a mixture of alkyl radicals
C12-Cl4, n being equal to 10, sold under the
name AKYPO RLM 100 by the Company
CHEM'Y ........................................ 5 g
Soda qs pH = 8
Water qs ................................ qs 100 g
We rinse the hair and we notice that it detangles easily. After drying, the hair is supple. And silky.

EXAMPLE D
On hair that is difficult to disentangle and that looks dull, apply a shampoo having the following composition
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate according to Example II .... 0.75 g
Alkoyl (C12-Cl4) triethanolamine sulfate
40% in water .............................. 15 g
Oxyethylamide of sulfated coconut fatty acid
30% in the water sold under the name of
SOMEPON ML 20 by the company MONTANOIR .......... 10 g Coconut diethanolamide ........................ 1 g
Hydrochloric acid qs pH = 7.9
Water qs ............................ qs 100 g
After lathering the shampoo, leave it on for a few minutes and then rinse thoroughly with water.

 Wet hair is easily disentangled and, after drying, the hair is soft and silky.

EXAMPLE E
On hair lacking flexibility and shine having been previously washed with a shampoo is applied a rinsing composition containing the following ingredients
Mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol and alcohol
cetylstearyl oxyethylenated to 15 moles of oxide
ethylene, sold under the name
of SINNOWAX AO by Saciété HENKEL. 2.5g
Cetylstearyl alcohol at 15 moles
ethylene oxide sold under the
name of CEMULSOL OR 30 by the company SPCS e 3 g
Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose sold under
the name of CELLOSIZE QP 4400
by the company UNION CARBIDE .................... 0.3 g
Monoethanolamine lauryl ether sulfate
28% in water, sold under the
denomination MONTELANE LEM by the
SEPPIC ................. 0.5 g
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate obtained according to
Example II s 0.4 g
Soda qs pH = 5 Water qs &ommat; ... 100 g
After leaving it on for a few minutes, the hair is thoroughly rinsed with water. Wet hair is disentangled easily and after drying the hair is flexible and soft to the touch.

EXAMPLE F
On a particularly dull hair and difficult to disentangle is applied after washing the hair using a conventional shampoo, a rinsing composition containing the following ingredients Pure cetyl alcohol 7 7 g
Compound of formula
RCHOH-CH20 - (CH2CHOH-CH2O) n -HR = C9-C12 alkyl
n = 3.5 statistical value ................ 0.5 g Hydroxyethyl cellulose sold under the name
of NATROSOL 250 HHR by the company HERCULES. 0.35 g
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate obtained according to Example I has 0.9 g hydrochloric acid qs .... pH = 7 Water qs .... n 100 g
after an exposure time of a few minutes, rinse the hair thoroughly. Wet hair is easy to untangle and when drying the hair is flexible and soft to the touch.

EXAMPLE G
10 cm3 of a hair toning lotion with the following composition is applied to hair which is difficult to untangle and which has a dull appearance.
Amniotic fluid 1 g
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate according to Example I ..... 0.5 g
Preservative ....................... 0.3 g Water qs .................... ............ 100 g
After styling and drying, the hair is supple and soft to the touch.

EXAMPLE H
On sensitized hair, 15 g of a hair lotion having the following composition is applied after shampooing:
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate according to Example II .... 20 g Carrageenans-sold under the name
of "SATIAGUM STANDARD" by the Company
Pierrefitte Auby .......................... 0.5 g
Triethanolamine qs pH = 8 5-bromo 5-nitro 1-3-dioxane ................. .... 0.5 g
Water qs ................................... 100 g
After iin; pregnation of the entire hair and an exposure time of about 10 minutes, rinse. After drying the hair is plump and soft to the touch.

EXAMPLE I
On oily hair, 10 cm3 of a hair lotion having the following composition is applied after shampooing
S-carboxymethylcysteine ....................... 0.5 g
Lactalbumin hydrolyzate according to Example I ...... 1 g
Ethyl alcohol - 25 g
Water qs ................ ..... 100 g
After styling and drying the hair, there is a delay in regreasing. The hair is shiny and beautiful in appearance.

Claims (11)

* ER TC, ~: TICNS  1. Method for treating hair: with a view to improving their appearance and facilitating disentangling, characterized in that it consists in applying to the whole of the hair a composition containing in a suitable vehicle a sufficient amount a lactalbumin hydrolyzate, essentially free of free amino acids and essentially consisting of peptides having a molecular weight of between 250 and 5,000, said hydrolyzate being obtained exclusively by the action of an endopeptidase,  leaving the composition to act, and optionally rinsing the entire hair.  2. Method according to claim. Licaracterized by the fact that the composition applied to the hair contains from 0.2 to 25% by weight of the lactalbumin hydrolyzate expressed as dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition  3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the suitable vehicle is a suspension, a solution in water, in an alcohol such as ethanol or isopropanol, or in a hydroalcoholic mixture or any other cosmetically acceptable solvent, in an oil, in an emulsion, in a gel or in a cream.  4. Method according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the suitable vehicle is a powder, in particular a powder for bleaching the hair.  5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the composition also contains an anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric detergent or their mixtures, and is in the form of a shampoo.  6. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition contains from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the lactalbumin hydrolyzate expressed as dry matter, and from 4 to 20, but preferably from 5 to 10 % by weight (expressed as active ingredient) of a detergent.  7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is left to act on the hair for a time of a few minutes to about 40 to 45 minutes.  8. Composition for implementing the method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the contain a sufficient amount of a lactalbumin hydrolyzate, essentially free of free amino acids and essentially consisting of peptides having a molecular weight of between 250 and 500, said hydrolyzate being obtained exclusively by the action of an endopeptidase, and at least one anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric detergent or their mixtures.  9. Composition according to Claim 8, characterized in that the lactalbumin hydrolyzate is present at a concentration of between 0.5 and 10% by weight expressed as dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.  10. Composition according to any one of claims 8 and 9, characterized in that it contains from 4 to 20% but preferably from 5 to 10% by weight (expressed in active material) of detergent relative to the total weight of the composition.  11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it also contains dyes, alkanolamides of fatty acids, cationic polymers such as quaternized vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, cationic cellulosic polymers, cellulose derivatives such as carboxymethyl or hydroxymethylcellulose, long chain polyol derivatives, natural gums, foam stabilizers or preservatives.