FI88248B - Method for production of an industrially produced product series for home production of articles of clothing and component series for production of articles of clothing - Google Patents

Description

88248

The method produces an industrially manufactured production kit for the self-manufacture of garments and a component kit for the manufacture of a garment. - Förfarande för framställning av en industriellt framställd produktserie för självframställning av klädesstycken ockonserie för framställning av klädesstycken.

The present invention relates to a method of making industrially manufactured kits for self-manufacture by a consumer of garments such as jackets, trousers, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts, initially cutting and partially industrially the components of the garment, while providing the parts with any reinforcements that may no longer be modified. with finished seams, fasteners and accessories in industrial pre-fabrication and then the components of the garment are assembled in a sandwich-like form into a package from which the consumer appropriately assembles the components in accordance with the work instructions and manufactures the garment.

The invention further relates to a set of components for the self-manufacture of such a garment.

Conventional industrial garment manufacturing is the complete manufacture from the sketch of the model and the subsequent cutting into finished garment and final ironing. In this case, the consumer only has to choose from a list of the products in it or the products in circulation there, without having to take part in the production himself in any form. For this, he pays a substantially higher price compared to the manufacture itself.

It is further known to sew all types of garments yourself by acquiring cutting patterns, self-manufacturing of the cut, 2 B8248 acquisition of all accessories and self-manufacturing.

These operations not only require very good manual skill, but also require special knowledge of the cutting, the yarn direction or resistance of different materials, the elongation value of knitted and knitted fabrics, and the attachment of fastening elements such as zippers, buttons, etc.

These conditions mean that many consumers, despite the cost savings of self-manufacturing compared to finished products, do not manufacture the garments themselves. In addition, there is the fact that the consumer must also have at his disposal suitable equipment and similar facilities at home which enable him to carry out all the operations from surgery to sewing together the various cutting parts without difficulty.

It is already known from DE-A-2 345 118 to form a cutting pattern on the fabric and to provide the pre-cut individual parts also with fastening means. In addition, the joined parts are also arranged before the production set is assembled.

CH-A-464 125 discloses a set of components comprising cut and arranged, i. prefabricated fabric parts with accessories. In this connection, only one individual ready-made clothing size can be desired at a time.

FF.-A-2 501 477 discloses a production kit equipped with a cutting part for one ready-made garment size with all its accessories, whereby the lining and reinforcements of the individual cutting parts take place already within the framework of prefabrication. Also FR-A-1 336 240 and US-PS-2 211 410 disclose a set of components in which three ready-made garment sizes marked with cut parts are known with individual measuring lines and all measuring points change relatively from one size to another. The cutting parts are packed in one set with accessories 3 88248 1a so that a set of components is created.

The object of the invention is to provide a three-size resizable size code, a method for the industrial production of clothing for this product, in particular a special industrially processed processing chain, and a component set for all types of women's, men's and children's clothing, which gives the consumer complete cost-effectiveness. equipment and machinery and manufacturing and material information and which allow the consumer to adapt to individual variations in clothing size.

As for the solution of the method part of this task, it is presented in the features of the characterizing part of claim 1.

This combination of several interconnected and complementary manufacturing steps includes the possibility of obtaining a garment that is maximally utilized and easy to implement for the consumer with a minimum amount of industrial pre-production (max. 30%).

With the component system, the consumer, even a consumer with a heavy body, who does not have the usual standard dimensions in ready-made garments, is able to make an optimally suitable garment and, in addition, balance the dimensions e.g. between the waist and hips or between the chest and waist, i.e. in the range of strongly changing dimensions, between three sizes. In addition to this, she can search for and order combination products (blouses, pants, skirts, jackets) in different top and bottom sizes, which gives her other optimal fit benefits.

In practice, this looks like this: 4 88248

The consumer orders a two-piece composite garment based on the dimensions he has received with the combination measuring tape, namely 1st jacket No. 38-1 skirt No. 40 a) The jacket can now be made in sizes 36 to 38-40 according to his individual size, as the corresponding accessories are included in individual cutting parts.

b) Skirt No. 40 can be made in variable sizes from 38 to 40 to 42.

Taking into account the obtained body dimensions, the consumer searches for the corresponding seam markings and sews the parts together. As the circumference changes, each product can always be solved and resized with existing fabric accessories to a new size.

The essence of the method according to the invention is that those garment components can be prefabricated industrially, which change only slightly with the listed ready-made garment sizes and which on the one hand require difficult and important work processes, which also require special material handling, but which are particularly suitable for industrial prefabrication, especially automatic manufacturing. . This proportion of prefabrication is about 20-30%, including the cut compared to the complete ready-made garment. The consumer is left with only those functions which do not require special experience in the self-manufacture of the garments and which are substantially limited to dimensional adjustment, joining of individual pieces, in particular sewing, gluing, welding, pressing and ironing. Thus, compared to conventional self-manufacturing, the consumer saves a number of work steps that usually require special training.

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A very great advantage is obtained for the use of several, e.g. two or three measurement systems for the corresponding number of ready-made garment sizes, because the consumer can take into account his own individual dimensions, which differ from the ready-made garment size, when making the garment.

An advantage of the method according to the invention can be seen in the fact that, on the one hand, the consumer saves time and money without having to give up handicrafts - e.g. as a leisure activity - and on the other hand he has pre-, intermediate- and pre-treated cutting parts with fasteners and accessories. he can adapt to his own individual size and which can be manufactured with the necessary manufacturing and material expertise industrially and thus can be put to use cost-effectively.

The overall course of the method is as follows:

According to the individual drawings of garments such as jackets, trousers, jackets, skirts, blouses or shirts, a color- and qualitatively defined and complementary collection of women's, men's and children's fashion is developed into a collection and appropriate fabrics are assigned to each color and material theme. From these collection drawings, the technical details are then derived and drawn separately, forming a model for later cutting sections.

From the drawing formed in each case, a basic formula is then developed in size 38, which forms the basis for all other size numbers. The so-called raw film is then pre-sewn in order to correct any shortcomings in the formation of the pattern. The necessary changes are made immediately in the basic formula. The schematic parts are compared with the schematic drawings and details and changes are made.

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Now each pattern is sewn from the original fabric to ensure that the pattern and fabric are in perfect harmony with the finished part. The necessary corrections are then finally made to the formula.

All work steps are listed and the steps are assigned, specifically according to the work steps for industrial prefabrication and home self-manufacturing. Finally, the drawer and the text editor match the drawings and the work instructions.

In parallel with the production of the formula, the scaling of other sizes and the compilation of several measuring systems into one formula are carried out so that the ready-made garment part can be provided in all available size numbers. After the size sets have been separated and inspected, these are stored, for example, in a pattern reduction machine. In this way, the dimensions corresponding to the sizes can be reproduced if necessary and cut on the cutting table.

The formula parts are cleaned and special parts are fed to other work steps. Such work steps can be, for example, ironing the stiffeners or pre-sewing the pocket mouths. Small finished parts can also be supplied prefabricated, such as belt loops, appliqués, pleated pleats, collars, cuffs, embroidery and opening seams, belts, pockets and waistbands.

All components, including accessories such as thread, zippers, buttons and stiffeners and the respective work instructions, are finally packed as a set in a ready-to-ship package.

A consumer who orders such a package from a list or searches special stores can then immediately start assembling the components as instructed by the work instruction. To that end, the consumer needs only the minimum information which he should have acquired in accordance with the usual methods of self-manufacturing. He does not need any special equipment or special facilities for this. In principle, a simple sewing machine is sufficient, the use of which can be learned without any problems.

The method according to the invention combines the advantages of industrial production with the advantages of self-production in a very skilful way with minimal costs and good fit, with the consumer's own share being 70 - Θ0%. It enables the production of fashionable garments in a small amount of time, the costs being optimally distributed on the one hand in the industrial prefabrication area and on the other hand in the self-manufacturing area.

The set of components set out in claim 2 can be provided e.g. in a film-like transparent package. Other forms of packaging can also be considered, such as boxes, pockets, rolls, etc.

In this connection, the supply in question can be supplemented, if necessary, by the features of claim 3.

The combination measuring tape used for individual size fitting is specially formed so that the consumer can read his ready-made clothing size and size measured in cm.

The invention is explained in more detail below by means of exemplary embodiments shown in the drawings. In the drawings: Fig. 1 shows a set of components for waist pleaters without accessories and sewing thread, Figs. of finished waist pleated trousers.

Figure 1 shows the various components of the waist pleated trousers and a snapshot 1-15.

In industrial prefabrication, both front parts 2, 4 of the trousers and both back parts 1, 3 are provided with overlay stitches 16 in this case. In this case, it is a small-scale manufacture (prefabrication). Each cutting section contains 3 sizes, the middle line being exactly the same size, e.g. for size number 38. The inner line corresponds to size 36, the outer line 40. Because the parts are well-groomed, it is recommended that the excess width 16 is not cut off but left for possible changes to the full number.

Thereafter (Fig. 4) the stiffeners 17 are ironed into the belt-velcro part 9 of the trousers. It can be further seen from Fig. 9 that the lower edge 18 of the waist-belt is machined inwards. These operations are medium-scale manufacturing (intermediate processing). The vario band allows the buttonhole 18a to be prefabricated into the waistband.

The waistband loops 12 to 15 of Figures 1 and 5 can be pre-treated by caring, over-solving, cutting and ironing.

Figure 2 shows how the two front pieces 2, 4 of the trousers are sewn from the front central part 19 to the notch 20 with each other. This is a smaller scale manufacture.

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Figure 3 shows the placement of the stiffeners 10, 11 in the pocket sockets 21. In this case, the stiffeners 10, 11 are first ironed on and then around the pocket edges. Figure 3 also shows how both zipper edge reinforcements 22 are ironed.

Now, as shown in Fig. 6, the zipper 23 is sewn on a twin needle machine.

Figure 7 shows the lower pocket fabric reinforcement 5 being sewn into the pocket liner 8 and joined 24. A pocket bag 25 is formed.

Then, as shown in Fig. 8, both pocket liners 25 are superimposed and sewn 26 around.

Figures 8-12 further show how the pocket bag 25 is sewn with a securing 26 into the pocket mouth 21. Figure 11 shows the right side of the trouser front pieces 2, 4 and Figure 12 shows the left side of the trouser front pieces 2, 4.

Industrial prefabrication is now complete. This product is available to the consumer in the form of a kit for self-manufacture.

After the consumer has opened the production series and examined the work instructions, he first uses the dimension table to determine the corresponding size seam of the Vario system in order to realize his own optimal size and pattern in the garment. Thereafter, the zipper 23 pre-sewn according to Fig. 13 is provided with two stitch stitches 27 and fastened with a transverse stitch 28.

The waist pleats 29 are then fastened according to the marking 30 with needles 31, and then the belt loops 12 to 15 are placed between the pleats 29 (Fig. 15). The belt loops 10 88248 12 - 15 are then fastened with a seam 32.

According to Fig. 16, the next step is to quilt 33 the upper edge of the pocket mouth 21.

Double seams 34 are then sewn between the pocket bags 25 and the zipper reinforcement 22 (Figure 17).

Four short seams 35 are now sewn as shown in Fig. 18 to secure the pocket bags 25 to the waist and side with the front pieces 2, 4 of the trousers.

As shown in Fig. 19, two short seams 36 are then sewn to sew the belt loops 12 to 15 to the back pieces 1, 3 of the trousers.

As shown in Fig. 20, the front pieces 2, 4 and the back pieces 1, 3 of the trousers are now sewn together on the sides and branches 38. In this case, the short cuts of the fabric facilitate the marking and ensure the exact overlap of the counter pieces.

After joining the front pieces 2, 4 and the back pieces 1, 3 of the trousers, the back seam 39 is closed and fastened as shown in Fig. 21. All the seams sewn so far are then ironed. This can also be seen as an example in Figure 21.

Now the consumer has to sew two finishing seams at the waist 9 of the trousers according to Fig. 22 at the edges, iron the edges of the waistband 41 according to the work instructions and iron the fold in the middle part 42 (Fig. 23).

Thereafter, a still open waistband 9 is sewn from the underside 43, as shown in Fig. 24, to the waist seam 43 of the trousers on the right.

In this case, two hangers 45 are also sewn to the sides.

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Figure 25 shows how the waistband 9 is then turned inwards. The inside of the waistband is then quilted and quilted from the right side. In this case, as can be seen in Fig. 26, the upper edge 46 of the waistband is quilted from the right, the belt loops according to Fig. 15 are placed on the waistband 9, the upper edge of the loop is turned 1 cm and it is quilted on the waistband 9.

The button 47 (see also Fig. 26) is then placed on the waistband 9 according to the wearer's waist measurements.

Figures 27 and 28 show how the seam 48 of the trousers is knitted inwards after the length adjustment.

The finished trousers 49 (Figures 29 and 30) are turned in the right direction and all remaining seams are ironed. The pants are then finally ironed on the right side.

The above variation of the fitting of longitudinal seams to the body size of the consumer also applies to the fitting of transverse and longitudinal dimensions.

Although the course of the treatment was explained above only with the help of trousers, the same applies to all garments.

Differences only occur in product-specific processing.

Claims (4)

1. A process for the manufacture of industrially fabricated articles of action of garments, such as coats, leggings, jackets, jackets, blouses or shirts for self-procurement by the consumer, cutting the garment for pcs with regard to its components (1 - 15, 23, 47) partially industrial, at the same time as parts (1-4, 7, 8) are provided with any fabricated stiffeners (10, 11), finished seams that are no longer changed, fasteners (23, 47) and additional supplies for industrial prefabrication, and then assembled The garment's components are sandwiched in the form of a package, from which the consumer on the basis of the parts of the package combines the components (1 - 15, 23, 47) according to the working regulations in a necessary manner and trims the garment, characterized in that on the package individual cutting parts are made measurement distinctions for two or three finished clothing sizes only in the matter of strongly deviating measured, a To the extent that, with the corresponding number of ready-made garments differ in no other way, they are carried out into some saturated children on the cutting parts, that in industrial prefabrication, such treatments are carried out, which do not vary in the different different sizes of different garments. requires heavy work stages, and the consumer measures their finished clothing size and determines the corresponding measurement markings on the cutting parts before the parts according to the regulations are combined into a clothing item. Component series for the manufacture of a garment item by a method according to Claim 1, characterized in that the components (1 - 15, 23 - 47) assembled in congruent form into matched, industrially manufactured garment components (1 - 15, 23 - 47) of a package, wherein the components are additionally in the form of cutting parts and have measurement designations for two or three ready-made sizes only for strongly divergent mats, the same cutting parts having absolutely no measuring designations for those measured, which at the corresponding number of ready-made sizes vary somewhat or not at all . Component series according to claim 2, characterized in that the package includes extra supplies. Component series according to claim 2, characterized in that the component series includes a combination measuring band.