FI20205712A1 - Hair coloring compositions comprising Nordic plant derived ingredients and mild neutralizing agent - Google Patents

Abstract

According to an example aspect of the present invention, there is provided a hair coloring composition comprising dimethylglucamine, oil or extract and aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic plants, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

Description

HAIR COLORING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING NORDIC PLANT DERIVED INGREDIENTS AND MILD NEUTRALIZING AGENT FIELD

[0001] The present invention relates to hair coloring cosmetic compositions which — contain dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, oil or extract from Nordic plants, aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic plants, at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent, at least one solvent and optionally one or more additional ingredients. The invention also relates to the use of the composition for the treatment or care of hair, particularly for coloring of hair, for example in the form of temporary, semi-permanent or — permanent hair colorant compositions.

BACKGROUND

[0002] In cosmetic industry there is a growing trend towards natural ingredients and compositions containing them. According to the definition provided in the REACH regulation, “natural” refers to naturally occurring substances as such, unprocessed or processed only by manual, mechanical or gravitational means, by dissolution in water, by flotation, by extraction with water, by steam distillation or heating solely to remove water, or which is extracted from air by any means.

[0003] According to a recent ISO standard for cosmetic products (ISO 16128, 2016/2017), natural ingredients are cosmetic ingredients obtained only from plants, — animals, micro-organisms or minerals, including those obtained from these materials by physical processes, fermentation reactions occurring in nature and leading to molecules S which occur in nature, and other procedures of preparation including traditional ones (e.g. N extraction using solvents) without intentional chemical modification.

S n [0004] As regards coloring of hair, particular attention is paid to health risks, since 7 25 — the chemicals used for hair coloring can result in a range of adverse effects, including a temporary skin irritation and allergy. To ensure that hair colors contain only safe = substances, the European Union has adopted legislation to restrict the use to only certain S chemicals in hair colors (https://ec.europa.eu/docsroom/documents/22242). However, there N is a growing need for cosmetic compositions, particularly hair coloring compositions, wherein the use of synthetic, non-natural ingredients and possibly hazardous chemicals could be avoided to the extent possible.

[0005] Several attempts to use natural ingredients in hair coloring products and other cosmetic products have been made. Traditionally, lemon juice has been used for brightening of blonde hair and henna for providing a reddish hair tone. Other examples of known natural hair coloring agents include indigo and turmeric.

[0006] US 8741961 B2 discloses a hair growth promoting composition mainly intended for oral administration. The active agent of the composition is pargyline, which is stated to influence the metabolism of hair follicles and to fight hair loss. In some embodiments, the composition may comprise glucamine and juniper berry oil.

[0007] US 20150125415 Al discloses a cosmetic composition suitable for treatment of hair. The composition may contain N-methylglucamine.

[0008] The present invention aims at providing hair coloring compositions, wherein the proportion of natural/plant derived or natural (plant based) ingredients can be increased higher than in the prior known hair coloring products, without adverse effects on the properties of the cosmetic compositions as regards efficacy, structure and manufacture of — the product. In particular, the invention aims at providing novel cosmetic compositions for coloring of hair, wherein the proportion of natural ingredients, derived natural ingredients or derived or mineral ingredients is at least 50%, typically at least 70% or even90% by weight, and which provide a combination of a mild neutralizing agent and the beneficial properties of Nordic plant ingredients in the same composition.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0009] The invention is defined by the features of the independent claims. Some S specific embodiments are defined in the dependent claims. & K [0010] The present invention is based on the concept of using dimethylglucamine as = a neutralizing agent in cosmetic compositions, together with ingredients derived from z 25 Nordic plants. a N [0011] According to a first aspect of the present invention, there is thus provided a 5 hair coloring composition comprising dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, at least O one oil or extract from Nordic plants, at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees, at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

[0012] According to a second aspect of the present invention, there is provided the use of a hair coloring composition comprising dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants, at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees, at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, for the treatment or care of hair, particularly for coloring of hair.

[0013] Embodiments of the invention comprise a hair coloring composition for treatment or care of hair, typically for coloring and care of hair, comprising dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent, at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants, at — least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees, at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, such as additives or auxiliary agents, wherein the at least one coloring agent may be a natural or synthetic coloring agent.

[0014] Considerable advantages are obtained by the invention. First, the invention may provide hair coloring compositions, wherein the proportion of natural ingredients, derived natural ingredients or natural organic and mineral ingredients is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, more preferably at least 90% by weight.

[0015] Second, the invention provides hair coloring compositions having a natural, mild odour as compared to some traditional hair coloring compositions which typically have a strong smell of chemicals. Moreover, the neutralizing agent of the hair coloring compositions of the invention in addition to being odourless is also biodegradable. Also the natural ingredients and derived natural ingredients from Nordic plants are biodegradable. N [0016] Third, the plant based oils and extracts from Nordic plants, typically from . Nordic berries, as well as the aromatic oils and aromatic extracts from Nordic berries or = 25 — trees provide the hair coloring compositions of the invention with antioxidants, which are 2 known active ingredients in cosmetic products. Antioxidants can take part to process * prohibiting artificial and natural hair color fading due exposure of sunlight and weathering = effects. 5 S [0017] It has also been found that by incorporating antioxidant-containing oils and extracts from Nordic plants in cosmetic compositions wherein amines, such as dimethylglucamine, are used as neutralizing agents, it is possible to reduce the formation of nitrosamines in the composition. Several oils and extracts from Nordic plants, such as oils and extracts from cloudberry, lingonberry, and bilberry, particularly from seeds thereof, are rich in antioxidants and vitamins, especially vitamin E. Further examples of vitamin-rich oils and extracts from Nordic plants are oat oil and canola oil, which are rich in vitamin E, as well as spray-dried cloudberry powder, which is particularly rich in vitamin C. In the present compositions the antioxidative properties of the oils and extracts from Nordic plants may reduce the formation of potentially carcinogenic nitrosamines from amines.

[0018] Further features and advantages of the present technology will appear from — the following description of some embodiments.

EMBODIMENTS

[0019] Within this disclosure, the terms “natural origin derived”, “natural derived”, “derived natural” and “plant origin derived” are used synonymously, when referring to the ingredients of the compositions. Also the terms “natural based ingredients” and “plant — based ingredients” and “natural ingredients” have the same meaning in the present context.

[0020] In the present context, the terms “derived natural”, “natural/plant origin derived” and “natural/plant derived” refer to substances that originate from plants but which may have been modified to fit for certain cosmetic purposes. According to ISO 16128-1, “derived natural ingredients” are cosmetic ingredients of greater than 50 % — natural origin, by molecular weight, by renewable carbon content, or by any other relevant methods, obtained through defined chemical and/or biological processes with the intention of chemical modification. Examples of derived natural substances are shea butter ethyl S esters. S [0021] In the present context, the term ”natural/plant based” or “natural” refers to 3 25 substances that are obtained directly from nature/plants or are only slightly modified, E correspondingly to the definition of natural ingredients by ISO 16128-1 . An example of N natural ingredients is cetylstearyl alcohol.

LO N [0022] International standard ISO 16128, which provides guidelines on definitions N for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients, may be used for assessment of whether a — certain cosmetic ingredient is a natural or derived natural cosmetic ingredient. However,

animal based ingredients are not used in the products within scope of the present patent, as the applicant is committed to vegan suitable products.

[0023] In the present context, the term “Nordic plants” or “Nordic wild plants” refers mainly to plants naturally growing in the Nordic area without agriculture or 5 gardening. However, to ensure diversity of Nordic nature, sources of natural plant extracts and oils may also be cultured. The natural ingredients may thus originate from organic farming methods or from wild harvesting in compliance with national legislation.

[0024] The Nordic area refers to a geographical region in Northern Europe and the North Atlantic. Preferably, the *Nordic plants” referred herein include plants growing in — the Nordic countries, which by definition include Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway, and Sweden, as well as Greenland, the Faroe Islands, the Äland islands and Svalbard archipelagos.

[0025] Typically, Nordic plants include Nordic berries, trees, shrubs, subshrubs, flowers, and mushrooms, including parts of said plants, such as leaves, roots, branches, and — twigs.

[0026] It has been found that by combining the use of dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent in neutralization reguiring cosmetic compositions with ingredients obtained from Nordic plants it is possible to prepare cosmetic compositions, wherein the proportion of derived natural ingredients or natural/ ingredients is high, typically at least 70% by weight of the composition. In particular, the hair coloring compositions according to the invention contain a proportion of natural or derived natural ingredients, which is at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 70%, and even 90% by weight of the composition. S This is a high number compared to traditional hair coloring compositions, which generally = do not contain any natural or plant-based ingredients or contain them only in very minor 2 25 amounts. E [0027] In particular, the hair coloring compositions according to the invention N contain a combination of dimethylglucamine, at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants, 5 at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees, at least one hair O coloring agent, and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. The “oil or extract from Nordic plants” refers herein to non-aromatic oils and non-aromatic extracts from Nordic plants. Thus the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises two types of oils/extracts: non-aromatic and aromatic.

[0028] Dimethylglucamine (N,N-dimethyl-d-glucamine or methylmeglumine, CsHioNOs) is a sugar based, mild alkaline neutralizing agent. It is a renewable, biodegradable agent without any hazard classification. Due to its advantageous properties, such as good buffering ability, neutralizing effect, mildness and easy-to-use liquid form, dimethylglucamine has been suggested for use in hair colors, hair straighteners, vegetable fatty acid soaps, shaving creams, aqueous and hydro-alcoholic gels and sun care products. However, the use of dimethylglucamine in hair treatment products or in other cosmetic compositions together with Nordic plant oil or extracts and aromatic Nordic plant oil or extracts has not been disclosed or suggested.

[0029] As stated above, Nordic plants typically include Nordic berries, trees, shrubs, subshrubs, flowers, and mushrooms, including parts thereof. However, also some oleiferous plants and cereals such as canola and oat (canola oil, oat oil) are also included.

[0030] Nordic berries include but are not limited to Nordic berries selected from the group consisting of lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea), bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus), cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccus / Oxycoccus palustris), small cranberry (Vaccinium microcarpum), bog bilberry (Vaccinium uliginosum), raspberry (Rubus idaeus), crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), rowanberry (Sorbus aucuparia, — Sorbus fennica), sea buckthorn (Hippophaé rhamnoides), blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum), redcurrant (Ribes rubrum), white currant (Ribes rubrum f. leucocarpum), greencurrant (Ribes nigrum), gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa), aronia berry (Aronia mitschurinii), 2 saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia), Arctic bramble (Rubus arcticus), stone bramble (Rubus N saxatilis), strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa), blackberry (Rubus fruticosus), bearberry S 25 (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) and juniper berry (Juniperus 8 communis). i

[0031] In a preferred embodiment, the Nordic berries are selected from the group = consisting of lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea), bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), S cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus), cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccus / Oxycoccus palustris), N 30 — sea buckthorn (Hippophaé rhamnoides) and juniper berry (Juniperus communis).

[0032] Nordic trees include but are not limited to pine (Pinus), particularly Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), birch (Betula), spruce (Picea), juniper (Juniperus communis), aspen (Populus tremula), alder (Alnus), and willow (Salix). Preferred Nordic trees include pine, birch, spruce, and juniper.

[0033] As an example of Nordic flowers from which oils or extracts suitable for the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be obtained, rosebay willowherb (fireweed, Chamaenerion angustifolium) may be mentioned. An example of Nordic subshrubs is heather (Calluna vulgaris).

[0034] Nordic mushrooms include but are not limited to chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliquus) and bracket fungus or polypores (Ganoderma).

[0035] For cosmetic purposes, oils or extracts are typically obtained from plants by using supercritical fluid extraction, particularly supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, if only appropriate for the plant in question. Traditional solvent extraction methods are usually not applicable for the preparation of substances intended for cosmetic use, due to an insufficient degree of purity and the inclusion of solvent residues. However, “mild” oil extraction methods such as cold-pressing are acceptable for cosmetic purposes.

[0036] For example, several berry or berry seed oils and extracts are commercially available. Typically they are produced as follows: Berries or berry seeds are first dried, pressed as cakes and milled and then extracted with CO,. Also frozen berry pulp may be — used From this extraction the separated berry oil or berry seed oil is recovered, subjected to after-treatment and packed. The berry or berry seed extract is obtained by extracting the residue from the CO, extraction process by using a solvent different from CO. S Alternatively, berry oils and berry seed oils and extracts may be obtained by cold-pressing. 5 [0037] It is possible to use for example water, ethanol, ethanol/water, butylene 3 25 glycol, butylene glycol/water, glycerine or their mixtures as solvents in the extraction of E the residual material. After the second extraction, any solids are separated from the extract. N Before packaging the extract is subjected to microbial filtration. Microwave or ultrasonic 5 extraction of Nordic plants and berries may also be used.

N

O N [0038] Aromatic oils or aromatic extracts are obtained from plants containing aromatic oils (essential oils). Aromatic oils are volatile and liquid aroma compounds, which are poorly soluble in water and have an odor, which makes them suitable for use in perfumery and food flavouring. Aromatic oils are usually prepared by extraction techniques such as distillation and cold pressing.

[0039] In cosmetic compositions for treatment and/or coloring of keratin fibres, Nordic plant extracts and oils may provide the cosmetic composition with keratin fibre conditioning properties, typically hair conditioning properties. Moreover, plant origin derived ingredients with moisturizing properties may be added, such as xylitol from birch or oats. Also birch sap as such or in fermented form may be used as a moisturizing additive.

[0040] Oils and aromatic oils from Nordic plants also provide the composition with a pleasant scent. Mixtures of non-aromatic and aromatic oils and extracts may also be used.

[0041] In one embodiment of the invention, the proportion of natural ingredients from Nordic plants is at least 0.1%, preferably at least 0.5%, more preferably at least 1-5% by weight of the composition.

[0042] In one embodiment of the invention, the combined proportion of natural and — derived natural ingredients is at least 50%, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 90% by weight of the composition.

[0043] In one embodiment of the invention, the total amount of oils or extracts from Nordic plants and aromatic oils or aromatic extracts from Nordic berries or trees in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is 0.001 — 50% by weight of the — composition, preferably 0.01 — 10 %, or 0.01 to 5 % by weight.

[0044] In an embodiment of the invention, the proportion of oil or extract from

O N Nordic plants is at least 0.01% by weight of the composition, preferably at least 0.51% by

N NM weight of the composition, typically 0.5—-5% by weight of the composition.

O 3 [0045] In some embodiments, non-aromatic oils or extracts include lingonberry seed E 25 — oil, bilberry seed oil, and/or canola oil. N . . . . . . = [0046] The proportion of aromatic oils or aromatic extracts from Nordic berries or

LO S trees in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably at least 0.01%,

O N more preferably at least 0.5-1% by weight, typically 0.5-5% by weight of the composition.

[0047] Hair coloring compositions according to the invention contain an amount of dimethylglucamine, which is at least 0.1%, at least 0.5% or at least 1% by weight of the composition. Typically, the hair coloring compositions contain 0.1-10%, 0.5-10% or preferably 1-10% dimethylglucamine by weight of the composition.

[0048] A further embodiment of the invention is a cosmetic composition, comprising or consisting essentially of at least 0.1%, preferably at least 0.5% by weight of dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent; at least 0.5% by weight of at least one non- aromatic oil or extract from Nordic plants; at least 0.1% by weight of at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees; at least one cosmetically acceptable — hair coloring agent, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent, and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, and wherein the total amount of natural or derived natural ingredients is at least 50%, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 90% by weight of the composition.

[0049] In one embodiment of the invention, the aromatic oil or aromatic extract is — from juniper (Juniperus communis), preferably in the form of juniper oil, juniper extract or juniper sprout extract. A juniper sprout refers herein to the annual new growth of a juniper branch. Other possible sources of aromatic oils or aromatic extracts are pine, spruce, Angelica archangelica and Ledum palustre. In case of the last two ingredients a question of possible phototoxicity of oil/ extract should be considered.

— [0050] In an embodiment of the invention, the aromatic oil or aromatic extract is from juniper, pine or spruce, preferably from juniper.

[0051] In embodiments of the invention, the composition may comprise also at least N one other neutralizing agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium N hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethylamine (MEA), aminomethy! propanol (AMP), e 25 aminomethyl propanediol (AMPD) and ammonia. The amount of pH adjusting agent I needed is based on target pH. a N [0052] Examples of solvents include but are not limited to water and alcohols, 5 wherein the alcohols are preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, O glycerol and other plant origin derived glycols. Preferred solvents are water and plant origin derived ingredients like ethanol and glycerol. Occasionally a synthetic solvent like isopropanol may be needed.

[0053] The hair coloring composition also contains coloring agents or colorants selected from the group consisting of natural dyes and synthetic colors, preferably a substance selected from the list of substances allowed for restricted use in hair coloring products given by the European Commission on March 27, 2017 —(https;//ec.europa.eu/docsroom/documents/22242).

[0054] Colorants and hair dyeing agents thus could include natural and synthetic dyes and colorants. Examples of natural dyes are plant-based dyes, such as vegetable dyes, henna, indigo, blackcurrant, turmeric and bilberry.

[0055] Typical examples of compositions for treatment and/or coloring of hair are — temporary hair colorant shampoos or conditioners, temporary or semi-permanent hair colorants (e.g. liguids, creams and foams, color toning and color rinsing compositions), and permanent hair colorants, which in addition to the composition of the invention reguire an oxidative part.

[0056] In an embodiment, the hair coloring composition according to the invention —isthus — aone-component product for coloring of hair (direct color composition); — atwo-component product for coloring of hair (semi-permanent or permanent color composition); or — a temporary hair colorant liquid, serum, shampoo, conditioner, masque, cream, foam, emulsion or powder. N [0057] Traditionally, permanent hair coloring reguires two separate products: a N coloring product contains at least one primary intermediate agent and at least one coupling = agent (a coupler); and the second product contains or is an oxidant. These ingredients are 3 25 typically produced via chemical synthesis. The two-component products for coloring of E hair are mixed immediately prior to use with an oxidative part, which typically contains N hydrogen peroxide. The coloring process is typically performed under basic conditions, 2 which are usually provided by ammonia. Optionally the oxidative part may also contain a Q thickening agent or thickener.

[0058] Direct coloring agents are typically synthetic colors. Direct colors include but are not limited to typical direct colors such as disperse violet, acid violet 43, basic brown,

4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethylaminophenol. These and other allowable coloring agents are mentioned in the List of substances allowed for restricted use in hair color products given by European Commission cited above.

[0059] Examples of primary intermediates include but are not limited to p- phenylenediamines such as toluene-2,5-diamine, preferably as toluene-2,5-diaminesulfate, p-aminophenols such as p-aminophenol and 4-amino-m-cresol, heterocyclic diamines such as 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate. The named compounds and other allowable primary intermediates are mentioned in the above referred List of substances allowed for restricted use in hair coloring products given by European Commission.

[0060] Examples of couplers include but are not limited to m-aminophenols such as m-aminophenol and 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, m-phenylenediamines such as 2-amino-4- hydroxyethylamino-anisole, resorcinols such as methylresorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol, pyridines such as 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, naphtols such as alfa-naphthol. The named compounds and other allowable couplers are mentioned in the List of substances — allowed for restricted use in hair coloring products given by European Commission cited above.

[0061] In embodiments of the invention the composition may also contain surfactants or emulsifying agents.

[0062] Surfactants or emulsifying agents include anionic, amphoteric, and non-ionic surfactants. Examples of anionic surfactants include but are not limited to sodium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, TEA lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate, o ammonium laureth sulphate, TEA laureth sulphate, and cetyl phosphate.

R [0063] Examples of amphoteric surfactants include but are not limited to betaine S derivatives. Examples of non-ionic surfactants include but are not limited to alkyl 3 25 — glucosides, fatty alkanolamides, laureth-12, and deceth-3.

T E [0064] Cationic surfactants include for example dipalmitoylethyl = hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, dicetyldimonium N chloride, and PEG-2 oleamine. However, their biodegradability and natural origin should N be evaluated to comply with the desired amount of natural and derived natural ingredients — of the hair coloring compositions of the invention.

[0065] Examples of thickeners or thickening agents include carbomers, xanthan gum, magnesium silicate, aluminium silicate, PEG derivatives, cellulose derivatives and long chain alcohols.

[0066] Known hair conditioning agents include for example silicones, such as dimethicone and amodimethicone, silanes, such as alkoxysilanes, cellulose derivatives, and fatty acid esters. However, also berry seed oils from Nordic berries as well Nordic plant extracts possess hair conditioning properties.

[0067] Silicones include volatile silicones, such as dimethicone, and but also non- volatile silicones like amodimethicone. To increase hair shine and manageability, “D5” — replacement emollients with plant origin derivative like C13-15 alkane could be used instead of volatile silicones as well as low viscosity dimethicones.

[0068] If desired or needed, cationic polymers may also be included in the composition. Typical examples of cationic polymers are polycationic polymers such as various polyquaternium products.

[0069] In an embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention comprises at least one other neutralizing agent in addition to dimethylglucamine. The at least one other neutralizing agent is preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethylamine (MEA), aminomethyl propanol (AMP), and aminomethyl propanediol (AMPD) and ammonia.

[0070] The composition according to the invention may also comprise other ingredients selected from the group consisting of other oils, waxes and fats, thickeners, hair S conditioning agents, preservative agents, perfume, chelating agents, pH adjusting agents, N UV filters, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, emulsifying agents, soaps, cationic S polymers, antioxidants, reducing agents, silicones, film forming polymers, humectants, 3 25 fibres, emollients, vitamins, and bulking agents. i

[0071] Other oils, waxes, fats, resins, soaps, as well as pH adjusting agents, = preservatives, antimicrobials and perfumes typically used in cosmetic products are known S to a person skilled in the art.

N

[0072] Humectants include for example glycerol, betaine, xylitol, saccharide isomerate, birch sap and propylene glycol.

[0073] Examples of chelating agents are gluconates and EDTA, typically disodium- EDTA.

[0074] All ingredients are selected to provide the compositions of the invention with as high percentage proportion of natural/plant origin derived or natural ingredients as possible, without compromising the other properties of the composition, such as the desired hair coloring effect, caring and conditioning effect, pleasant scent and structure of the composition.

[0075] When the composition according to the invention is a temporary hair colorant shampoo, it typically contains anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic and/or cationic surfactants, thickeners, hair conditioning agents, hair coloring agents, and optional additional ingredients. An embodiment of the invention is a hair colorant shampoo (temporary colorant) with a formula as referred in Example 1.

[0076] When the composition according to the invention is a temporary or semipermanent hair colorant composition, such as liquid, cream of foam, it typically — contains solvents, oils, waxes and/or fats, emulsifying agents, surfactants, silicones, hair conditioning agents and hair coloring agents, and optional additional ingredients. An embodiment of the invention is a temporary or semi-permanent colorant with a formula as referred in Example 2.

[0077] When the composition according to the invention is a permanent, oxidative — type hair colorant, it typically contains oils, surfactants, emulsifying agents, soaps, solvents, thickeners, hair coloring agents, reducing agents, and optional additional ingredients. An embodiment of the invention is a permanent, oxidative type hair colorant S composition with a formula as referred in Example 3. S [0078] In examples 1, 2 and 3, an oil part consisting of Nordic berry/ plant oil and 3 25 — possibly additional oils or oil additives can be added directly to the formula, or used as an E additive in format of oil.

N ~ [0079] It is to be understood that the embodiments of the invention disclosed are not S limited to the particular structures, process steps, or materials disclosed herein, but are N extended to eguivalents thereof as would be recognized by those ordinarily skilled in the relevant arts. It should also be understood that terminology employed herein is used for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting.

[0080] Reference throughout this specification to one embodiment or an embodiment means that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the present invention. Thus, appearances of the phrases “in one embodiment” or “in an embodiment” in various places throughout this specification are not necessarily all referring to the same embodiment. Where reference is made to a numerical value using a term such as, for example, about or substantially, the exact numerical value is also disclosed.

[0081] As used herein, a plurality of items, structural elements, compositional elements, and/or materials may be presented in a common list for convenience. However, — these lists should be construed as though each member of the list is individually identified as a separate and unigue member. Thus, no individual member of such list should be construed as a de facto eguivalent of any other member of the same list solely based on their presentation in a common group without indications to the contrary. In addition, various embodiments and example of the present invention may be referred to herein along —with alternatives for the various components thereof. It is understood that such embodiments, examples, and alternatives are not to be construed as de facto eguivalents of one another, but are to be considered as separate and autonomous representations of the present invention.

[0082] Furthermore, the described features, structures, or characteristics may be combined in any suitable manner in one or more embodiments. In the following description, numerous specific details are provided, such as examples of lengths, widths, shapes, etc., to provide a thorough understanding of embodiments of the invention. One skilled in the relevant art will recognize, however, that the invention can be practiced Q without one or more of the specific details, or with other methods, components, materials, N 25 — etc. In other instances, well-known structures, materials, or operations are not shown or 5 described in detail to avoid obscuring aspects of the invention.

O = a

N EXPERIMENTAL 5 Example 1. Hair colorant shampoo (temporary colorant)

N

N Ingredients Maximum levels

Amphoteric surfactants Hair conditioning agents e.g. silicones (e.g. dimethicone, | 15 amodimethicone), silanes (e.g. alkoxysilanes), cellulose derivatives, fatty acid esters, berry seed oils, Nordic plant extracts Additional ingredients (e.g. UV filters, pearlescent agents, | 10 opacifying agents; /Nordic berry/plant oil; extract) Hair coloring agents, directs colors Perfume, Nordic berry/plant oil, aromatic oil/extract Chelating agents (e.g. disodium EDTA) pH adjusting agents (at least 0.1% dimethylglucamine, 01-5 others e.g. citric acid, NaOH) Anionic surfactants include for example sodium/ammonium/TEA lauryl sulfate, sodium/ammonium/TEA laureth sulfate. Amphoteric surfactants include for example N betaine derivatives. Non-ionic surfactants include for example fatty alkanolamides.

O . 5 Thickeners include for example PEG derivatives. Cationic surfactants include for example T stearamidopropyl dimethyamine. Hair conditioning agents include for example silicones 0 9 (e.g. dimethicone, amodimethicone), silanes (e.g. alcoxysilanes), cellulose derivatives,

I i fatty acid esters, berry seed oils, and Nordic plant extracts. Additional ingredients include = UV filters, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, Nordic berry/plant oil; extract.

LO

O O 10 Example 2. Hair colorant liguid, cream, foam (temporary or semi-permanent colorant) Ingredients Maximum levels % (w/w)

Ethanol and/or isopropanol Silicones, including volatile silicones Surfactants (anionic/non-ionic/amphoteric, e.g. ether of | 10 oleyl alcohol) Hair coloring agents: direct colors Solvents (e.g. propylene glycol, isopropanol) Cationic surfactans (e.g. dicetyldimonium chloride) Additional ingredients (e.g. plant extracts, protein | 5 derivatives, Nordic berry/plant oil or extract Hair conditioning agents (e.g. cationic polymers, berry seed | 5 oils, Nordic plant extracts) Polymers, resins (e.g. acrylates copolymer) Thickeners (e.g. cellulose derivatives) Perfume (Nordic berry/plant oil, aromatic oil/extract) pH adjusting agent (at least 0.1% dimethylglucamine, other | qs pH 2-10 alkalines such as MEA, NaOH, KOH, or citric acid Example 3. Hair colorant (permanent, oxidative type)

S N This composition is an example of two-component colorant part with high level of oils.

K O The composition is to be mixed immediately prior to use with an oxidative part. 3 I Ingredients Maximum levels (% w/w) a N Oils (e.g. vegetable and/or mineral) 8 Anionic surfactants (e.g. ammonium laureth sulfate)

N S Non-ionic surfactans (e.g.laureth-12, deceth-3) Amphoteric surfactants (e.g. betaine derivatives)

Emulsifying agents (e.g. ethoxylated long chain alcohols) Soaps (e.g. ammonium hydroxide/ethanolamine oleates) Solvents (e.g. propylene glycol, glycerin) Thickeners (e.g. carbomer, long chain alcohols) Ethanol and/or isopropanol Ges 1) Primary intermediates (e.g. p-phenylenediamines such as toluene-2,5-diamine, p-aminophenols such as p- aminophenol and 4-amino-m-cresol, heterocyclic diamines such as 1-hydroxyethyl 4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate) 2) Couplers (e.g. m-aminophenols such as m-aminophenol and 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, m-phenylenediamines such as 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisole, resorcinols such as methylresorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol, pyridines such as 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, naphtols such as alfa-naphthol) 3) Directs (eg HC red no 3, 2-amino-6-chloro-4- nitrophenol, basic yellow 87) Alkaline agents, at least 0.1% dimethylglucamine (others | gs pH 2-10 e.g. KOH, NaOH, MEA, NH;) Cationic surfactants (e.g. dicetyldimonium chloride, PEG-2 | 5 oleamine) Cationic polymers (e.g. polyguaternium-6) Additional ingredients (e.g. hair conditioning agents, | 5 pearlescent agents, Nordic berry/plant oil or extract N Antioxidants (e.g. ascorbic acid)

N 2 Perfume/Nordic berry/plant oil, aromatic oil/extract E Chelating agents (e.g. EDTA) :

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N The pH of the composition is pH 8 to 11. The pH value of the mixture with an oxidative part is 6 to 11. The maximum concentration of ammonium hydroxide permitted is 6%.

[0083] While the forgoing examples are illustrative of the principles of the present invention in one or more particular applications, it will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art that numerous modifications in form, usage and details of implementation can be made without the exercise of inventive faculty, and without departing from the — principles and concepts of the invention. Accordingly, it is not intended that the invention be limited, except as by the claims set forth below.

[0084] The verbs “to comprise” and “to include” are used in this document as open limitations that neither exclude nor require the existence of also un-recited features. The features recited in depending claims are mutually freely combinable unless otherwise explicitly stated. Furthermore, it is to be understood that the use of "a" or "an", that is, a singular form, throughout this document does not exclude a plurality.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY

[0085] At least some embodiments of the present invention find industrial application in cosmetic industry, by providing cosmetic compositions including shampoos, conditioners, and hair colorants.

ACRONYMS LIST AMP aminomethyl propanol AMPD aminomethyl propanediol EDTA ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid ISO International Organization for Standardization S MEA monoethylamine

O . PEG polyethylene glycol

O n REACH registration, evaluation, authorization and restriction of chemicals

O I TEA triethanolamine a N 25

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CITATION LIST Patent Literature US 8741961 B2 US 20150125415 Al Non-patent Literature ISO 16128-1: Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients and products — Part 1: Definitions for ingredients. 2016-02-15 ISO 16128-2: Cosmetics — Guidelines on technical definitions and criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients — Part 2: Criteria for ingredients and products. 2017-09 List of substances allowed for restricted use in hair dye products given by European Commission, March 2017, Document date: 27/03/2017

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Claims (20)

CLAIMS:

1. A hair coloring cosmetic composition comprising: — dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent; — at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants; — atleast one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees; — at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent; — atleast one cosmetically acceptable solvent; and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

2. The hair coloring composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil or extract from Nordic plants comprises oil or extract from Nordic plants selected from the group of Nordic berries, trees, shrubs, subshrubs, flowers, mushrooms, cereals and oleiferous plants.

3. The hair coloring composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the Nordic berries are selected from the group consisting of lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea), bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus), cranberry (Vaccinium oxycoccus / Oxycoccus palustris), small cranberry (Vaccinium microcarpum) bog bilberry — (Vaccinium uliginosum), raspberry (Rubus idaeus), crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), rowanberry (Sorbus aucuparia, Sorbus fennica), sea buckthorn (Hippophaé rhamnoides), blackcurrant (Ribes nigrum), redcurrant (Ribes rubrum), white currant (Ribes rubrum f. leucocarpum), greencurrant (Ribes nigrum), gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa), aronia berry o (Aronia mitschurinii), saskatoon (Amelanchier alnifolia), Arctic bramble (Rubus arcticus), O 25 — stone bramble (Rubus saxatilis), strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa), blackberry (Rubus 5 fruticosus), bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) and S juniper berry (Juniperus communis), preferably from the group consisting of lingonberry, E bilberry, cloudberry, cranberry, sea buckthorn and juniper berry. a 5 30

4. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the O Nordic trees are selected from the group consisting of pine (Pinus), particularly Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), birch (Betula), spruce (Picea), juniper (Juniperus communis), aspen (Populus tremula), alder (Alnus), and willow (Salix).

5. The hair coloring composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the Nordic flowers comprise rosebay willoherb (fireweed, Chamaenerion angustifolium), and the Nordic subshrubs comprise heather (Calluna vulgaris).

6. The hair coloring composition according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein the Nordic mushrooms are selected from the group consisting of chaga mushroom (Inonotus obliguus) and bracket fungi or polypores (Ganoderma).

7 The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aromatic oil or aromatic extract is derived from juniper (Juniperus communis), preferably in the form of juniper oil, juniper extract or juniper sprout extract, or from pine or spruce, preferably from juniper.

8. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent is selected from the group consisting of water and alcohols, wherein the alcohols are preferably selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol and other plant origin derived glycols, more preferably from water, ethanol, glycerol and other plant origin derived glycols.

9. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the at least one coloring agent is selected from the group consisting of natural colors and synthetic colors, preferably a substance selected from the list of substances allowed for use S in hair coloring products given by the EC. O 25 N 10. The hair coloring composition according to claim 9, wherein the natural colors are 2 selected from the group consisting of vegetable colors, henna, indigo, blackcurrant, z turmeric and bilberry. a

N = 30 11. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein N the composition is N — aone-component product for coloring of hair (direct coloring composition); — a two-component product for coloring of hair (semi-permanent or permanent coloring composition); or

— a temporary hair colorant liquid, serum, shampoo, conditioner, masque, cream, foam, emulsion or powder.

12. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which further comprises at least one other neutralizing agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, monoethylamine (MEA), aminomethyl propanol (AMP), aminomethyl propanediol (AMPD) and ammonia (NH3).

13. The hair coloring composition according to 11 or 12, wherein the two-component product is mixed immediately prior to use with an oxidative part, which typically contains hydrogen peroxide, and optionally thickening agents.

14. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the proportion of natural ingredients from Nordic plants is at least 0.1%, preferably at least

0.5%, more preferably at least 1-5% by weight of the composition.

15. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the proportion of natural or derived natural ingredients is at least 50%, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 90% by weight of the composition.

16. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the proportion of oil or extract from Nordic plants is at least 0.01% % by weight of the composition, preferably at least 0.5—1 % by weight of the composition, typically 0.5-5% o by weight of the composition. O 25 N

17. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein 0 the proportion of aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees is at least I 0.01% by weight of the composition, preferably at least 0.5—1% by weight, typically a 0.5—5% by weight of the composition. 5 30 N

18. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which N contains an amount of dimethylglucamine which is at least 0.1%, at least 0.5% or at least 1% by weight of the composition, preferably 0.1-10%, 0.5-10% or preferably 1-10% by weight of the composition.

19. The hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising — atleast 0.1%, preferably at least 0.5%, dimethylglucamine as a neutralizing agent; — at least 0.5% by weight of at least one oil or extract from Nordic plants; — at least 0.1% by weight of at least one aromatic oil or aromatic extract from Nordic berries or trees; — at least one cosmetically acceptable hair coloring agent; — atleast one cosmetically acceptable solvent; and optionally other cosmetically acceptable ingredients, wherein the total amount of natural or derived natural ingredients is at least 50%, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 90% by weight of the composition.

20. Use of the hair coloring composition according to any one of the preceding claims for — the treatment or care of hair, particularly for coloring of hair.

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