EP4701609A1 - Composition comprising an anti-ageing active ingredient and the combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer and silica - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one anti-age active agent, - a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer, - a first surfactant chosen from esters of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, - a second surfactant chosen from esters of C₁₆-C₂₂ fatty acid and sorbitan, and - silica.

Description

Composition comprising an anti-ageing active ingredient and the combination of two specific surfactants, a superabsorbent polymer and silica

The present invention relates to a care composition which has enhanced sensory qualities both on application and after application.

In the cosmetic field of care, cosmetic compositions making it possible to obtain both good sensory properties as well as a care effect are increasingly sought by users. Care effect denotes for example an effect countering the drying or aging of keratin materials and particularly the skin, this care effect being provided by active agents.

However, obtaining this dual effect (good sensory properties and care effect) necessitates being able to introduce one or more hydrophilic agents in sufficient quantity into the composition without compromising on the sensory qualities which could be affected by the dosage form selected to incorporate said active agent(s).

At the present time, a wide diversity of care compositions are already known and effective, but their sensory qualities still need to be improved.

Therefore, there is a need for care compositions, in particular anti-age compositions, having enhanced sensory qualities.

There is in particular a need for care compositions, in particular anti-age compositions, providing in particular a bouncy effect to the skin while having enhanced sensory qualities.

There is in particular a need for care compositions, in particular anti-age compositions, providing in particular a bouncy effect to the skin while providing a less greasy finish and/or a greater sensation of slip and/or a lesser film-forming sensation and a freshness effect on application.

The inventors have now discovered that combining silica and a superabsorbent polymer selected from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer in a composition comprising an anti-age active agent and two specific surfactants makes it possible to obtain a care composition which has enhanced sensory qualities, in particular providing a bouncy effect to the skin while providing a less greasy finish and/or a greater sensation of slip and/or a lesser film-forming sensation and a freshness effect on application. Indeed, it was discovered that, surprisingly, combining superabsorbent polymer and silica makes it possible to significantly reduce the linear viscoelastic range of the composition, enabling an even greater transformative sensation from the product and therefore enhanced sensory qualities, in relation to compositions comprising neither superabsorbent polymer nor silica, or merely one of the two.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- at least one anti-age active agent,

- a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer,

- a first surfactant chosen from esters of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units,

- a second surfactant chosen from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan, and

- silica.

The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

"Physiologically acceptable" refers to a medium compatible with keratin materials.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention preferably to hydrate the skin and/or to reduce the appearance and/or reduce the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular the skin.

Suoerabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer.

A "superabsorbent polymer" refers a polymer that in its dry state is capable of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, and particularly water and especially distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the book "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science 8" by L. BRAN NONPAPPAS and R. HARLAND, published by Elsevier, 1990. These polymers have a high capacity for the absorption and retention of water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus soaked in aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus retain their individualized particulate state.

The superabsorbent polymer can have a water absorption capacity varying from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (namely 20 g to 2000 g of water absorbed per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times, and more preferably from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under normal temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mm Hg equal to 100000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The value of the water absorption capacity of a polymer can be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a solution of water, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the solution not absorbed on a 150 pm filter for 20 minutes and weighing the non-absorbed water.

The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer, in the dry or non-hydrated state, has an average size less than or equal to 100 pm, preferably less than or equal to 50 pm, varying for example from 1 to 100 pm, preferably from 5 to 50 pm and more preferably from 7 to 30 pm.

The average size of the particles corresponds to the average mass diameter (D₅o) measured by laser granulometry or another equivalent method known to a person skilled in the art. These particles, once hydrated, swell by forming soft particles with an average size that can vary from 10 pm to 1000 pm.

The superabsorbent polymers according to the invention are starches grafted by an acrylic polymer. The acrylic polymer can be a homopolymer or a copolymer, particularly sodium polyacrylate. Such polymers have gelling properties and a feel similar to that of a silicone-containing compound ("silicone-like" feel).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the superabsorbent polymer(s) used comprise from 85 to 95% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and from 5 to 15% by weight of starch. Preferably, they consist of 90% by weight of sodium polyacrylate and of 10% by weight of starch.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the superabsorbent polymer(s) used is greater than 1000 Dalton. Mention may particularly be made of starches grafted by an acrylic polymer and particularly by sodium polyacrylate, like those sold under the trade name Sanfresh ST- 100MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25, Makimousse 12 or Makimousse 7 by Daito Kasei (INCI name Sodium polyacrylate Starch).

The superabsorbent polymers used in this invention may or may not be cross-linked.

The superabsorbent polymers used in this invention are preferably starches grafted by an acrylic homo- or copolymer, particularly sodium polyacrylate, which are preferably presented in particle form.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic homopolymer, preferably in the form of particles with an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, also preferably in the form of particles.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer chosen from the starches grafted by an acrylic polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention at an active substance content greater than 0.05% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.06% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1 % by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

First surfactant chosen from esters of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units

The composition according to the invention comprises a first surfactant chosen from esters of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The number of ethylene oxide units of the polyethylene glycol may range from 20 to 50, preferably from 35 to 45.

The fatty acid is preferably a C14-C24 fatty acid. It is understood that the fatty chain of the fatty acid may be linear or branched, or saturated or comprising at least one unsaturation. Preferably, the fatty acid is a fatty acid with a saturated and linear chain. The fatty acid is preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid, preferably with a saturated and linear chain.

The ester of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units is preferably an ester of stearic acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units (20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, PEG-20 to PEG-50). As an example of esters of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, mention may be made of esters of stearic acid comprising 20, 30, 40 or 50 ethylene oxide units respectively, such as the products marketed under the trade name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol 20 EO stearate; CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51 , Myrj 52 P (polyethyleneglycol 40 EO stearate; CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 or Myrj 59 P by CRODA.

Preferably, the first surfactant chosen from esters of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units is present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

Second surfactant chosen from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan

The composition according to the invention comprises a second surfactant chosen from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan.

The esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain, having 16 to 22 carbon chains respectively, with sorbitol. In particular, these esters may be chosen from among stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, oleates of sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates will preferably be used, and more preferably sorbitan stearates.

The ester of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan present in the composition according to the invention is advantageously solid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C.

As an example of a sorbitan ester that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the trade name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by Croda under the trade name Span 65 V, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the trade name Span 40, sorbitan monooleate sold by Croda under the trade name Span 80 V, sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniquema under the trade name Span 85 V, preferably the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate. Preferably, the second surfactant chosen from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight.

Silica

The composition according to the invention comprises silica.

Preferably, the composition comprises silica powder, preferably in the form of silica microspheres.

Preferably, the DV50 of the silica microspheres (median size of the microspheres) ranges from 4 to 6 pm, preferably from 4.8 to 5.2 pm.

Preferably, the polydispersity of the size of the microspheres ranges from 0.9 to 1 .2, preferably from 0.95 to 0.98.

As examples of silica powder suitable for the invention, mention may be made of porous silica microspheres sold under the trade name "SILICA BEADS SB-700" marketed by MYOSHI, the "SUNSPHERE® H51", "SUNSPHERE® H33", "SUNSPHERE® H53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS; polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the trade name "SA SUNSPHERE® H-33" and "SA SUNSPHERE® H-53" marketed by ASAHI GLASS.

Preferably, the silica is present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

Anti-age active agent

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one anti-age active agent.

This active agent may be chosen from the anti-age active agents from the prior art.

Preferably, said active agent is chosen from retinol and its derivatives, vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may comprise retinol and/or one of its derivatives.

Retinol (vitamin A) has a structure according to the following formula (VII):

The term "retinol derivatives" preferably denotes C1 -C24 retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate.

Preferably, the content of retinol and/or one of its derivatives in the composition ranges from 0.03% to 1 .5% by weight, preferably from 0.03% to 0.7% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an active agent chosen from vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

Niacinamide has a structure according to the following formula (I):

Niacinamide or nicotinamide is vitamin PP, which is a form of vitamin B3, and for which the CAS number is 98-92-0. This substance is also known as nicotinic acid amide and vitamin B3.

The term "niacinamide derivative" preferably denotes a compound wherein the amide group of the niacinamide is secondary or tertiary, preferably substituted by one or two alkyl groups independently chosen from C1 -C4 alkyl groups.

Mention may be made for example of the product nicotinic acid marketed by DSM Nutritional Products. The ascorbic acid corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has a structure according to the following formula (II):

The term "ascorbic acid derivative" preferably denotes a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (particularly sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO- AA®), DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate potassium salt also known as Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by SEPPIC under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC®), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by DSM under the reference Stay-C 50®), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

The term "ascorbyl glucoside" denotes a condensation product of glucose, in D form, i.e., in a or p glucopyranose or a or furanose, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-O-a-D-glucopyranoside, particularly available from HAYASHIBARA.

Mention may be made for example of the product Ascorbic acid L® from RECKON ORGANICS (synthetic pure ascorbic acid) or Ascorbic acid Ultrafine powder® from DSM nutritional products (natural extract).

Panthenol (or vitamin B5) has a structure according to the following formula (III)

The term "panthenol derivative" preferably denotes C1 -C8 panthenol esters and ethers.

Mention may be made for example of the product D-panthenol 75W® marketed by BASF.

The tocopherol preferably corresponds to a-tocopherol, or vitamin E. It has a structure according to the following formula (IV)

The term "tocopherol derivative" preferably denotes esters and ethers of tocopherol, preferably C1 -C24, preferably C2-C18, esters and ethers, such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, tocopherol linoleate, or tocopherol nicotinate.

Mention may be made for example of the product DL Alpha Tocopheryl acetate® marketed by EISAI.

Preferably, the composition comprises between 0.5% and 5% by weight, preferably between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 1 .5% and 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, of at least one additional vitamin or an additional vitamin derivative chosen from tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives, ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives, panthenol and/or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives, and/or any of the mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the total quantity of additional vitamin ranges from 0.5% to 8% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1 .5% to 3% by weight.

According to an embodiment, the composition comprises panthenol and/or one of its derivatives and niacinamide and/or one of its derivatives.

According to another embodiment, the composition comprises tocopherol and/or one of its derivatives and ascorbic acid and/or one of its derivatives.

Any other lipophilic anti-age active agent may also be present in the composition according to the invention.

Oily phase

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an oily phase.

The oily phase preferably comprises at least one oil, preferably as defined hereinafter. Oil

Oil denotes any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 - 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil according to the invention may be volatile or non-volatile. The oil may be hydrocarbon or silicone.

A hydrocarbon oil suitable for the invention may be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a plant hydrocarbon oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

"Hydrocarbon oil' denotes an oil essentially formed, or consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine. The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and from a fluorine oil.

It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" according to the invention denotes any oil capable of evaporating in contact with skin or keratin fiber, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) according to the invention is (are) volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different from zero at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10^-3 to 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

The term "non-volatile oil" denotes an oil remaining on skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure less than 10^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

Among non-volatile, non-hydrocarbon oils that can be used, mention may be made in particular of:

(i) hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglyceride esters that are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerols with chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, with the latter able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, almond and particularly sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose, coconut oils; or capryl ic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel, (ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched dialkyl ethers, symmetrical or non-symmetrical, containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof (mineral oils);

(iv) synthetic esters such as oils having the formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms on the condition that R + R’ is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoates like the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate like the product sold under the trade name "Dub Dis®" by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as C12-C13 linear di-alkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALS and C14-C15 linear di-alkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;

(y) fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate like the product sold under the name "Cetiol CC®" by Cognis;

(viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate like the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® by Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.

Volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used can be chosen particularly from among hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes such as petroleum-based C8-C16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C8- C16 esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in patent applications W02007/068371 , or W02008/155059 made by Cognis (separate alkane mixtures and different by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. Mention may be made of mixtures of n- undecane (C1 1 ) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 in application W02008/155059 made by Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97® and PARAFOL 14-97® respectively, and mixtures thereof.

Further volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the trade name Shell Soit® by SHELL, may also be used.

The non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen particularly from among non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

Volatile silicone oils that can be used include for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8.10⁶ m²/s), and in particular having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, as a volatile silicone oil suitable for use in the invention, in particular, of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyl trisiloxane linear oils with general formula (X): where R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (X), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, 3-propyl 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and 3- ethyl 1 ,1 ,1 ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, corresponding to oils with formula (X) for which R is a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group respectively.

Preferably, the silicone oil is a non-volatile PDMS.

Other fatty substance

Another fatty substance (or lipophilic compound) may be chosen from:

- fatty acids comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

- waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candelilla wax, paraffin or lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes and Fischer-Tropsch waxes;

- pasty compounds, detailed below, such as butters of plant origin;

- fatty alcohols solid at ambient temperature with a linear carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol;

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms; and oils having formula RCOOR' wherein R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on the condition that R + R' is > 10, and any of the mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl sebacate, and any of the mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oily phase of the composition further comprises at least one other fatty substance chosen from fatty alcohols that are solid at ambient temperature with a linear carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 5% to 25% by weight of oily phase with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase. An aqueous phase contains water, and optionally at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and/or a spring or natural mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, water from the basin of Vichy, Uriage water, la Roche Posay water, la Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, les Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avene water.

An aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water, at 25°C.

Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10, more preferably C1-C5, alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

The polyol is, preferably, chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propyleneglycol, isoprene glycol, dipropyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,2-propanediol, 1 ,3- propanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), polyethyleneglycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 40% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises from 40% to 90% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 85% by weight.

Preferably, the aqueous phase of the composition comprises water, a C1-C10 alcohol, preferably ethanol, and at least one polyol having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from glycerol, 1 ,2-octanediol, 1 ,3-propanediol and any of the mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight.

Other ingredients The composition according to invention may contain one or more of the usual excipients in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrating agents; emollients; gelling agents, for example natural gelling agents; antioxidants; perfumes; film-forming agents; dyestuffs; sequestering agents; electrolytes; pH adjusters; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and mixtures thereof. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields in question. In particular, these quantities vary according to the sought purpose and can for example range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Obviously, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional active agent(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered, by the envisaged addition.

As thickeners, mention may be made of:

- carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulens such as Pemulen TR1® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate/C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer);

- polyacrylamides such as for example cross-linked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600® (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) or Simulgel EG (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) by Seppic;

- copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by SEPPIC;

- cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose;

- polysaccharides and in particular carrageenan and gums such as xanthan gum;

- water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones,

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the thickeners are chosen from polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The thickeners are preferably present in a quantity between 0.5% and 10% by weight, and preferably between 2% and 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition. The composition may also comprise at least one polymer, and particularly a hydrophilic polymer. Such a polymer is preferably a water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymer.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 10,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 8,000,000 g/mole, and more preferably from 100,000 g/mole to 7,000,000 g/mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers suitable for the invention, mention may be made for example of optionally cross-linked sodium 2- acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid polymers such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800® (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate acid (INCI name: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLDIMEHYLTAURAMIDE) such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by Clariant.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention, mention may be made for example of:

- cross-linked sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as those used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305® (CTFA name: 5 3028758 57 POLYACRYLAMIDE/C13-C14 ISOPARAFFIN/ LAURETH-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL 600® (CTFA name: ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/ ISOHEXADECANE/ POLYSORBATE-80) by SEPPIC;

- copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER) but neutralized with soda or potash;

- copolymers of AMPS® and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL EG® by SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM® (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

- copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example

AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (AND) SQUALANE (AND) POLYSORBATE 60) or such as the product marketed under the name SODIUM ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYLPROPANE SULFONATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER such as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10® (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

- copolymers of AMPS® and ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate, optionally crosslinked, such as Aristoflex® HMS, that has the name AMPS/ethoxylated cetearyl methacrylate (25 EO) 80/20 copolymer, cross-linked by trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) or Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer as its INCI name.

As sequestering agent, mention may be made of ethylene diamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) or its salts. Ethylene diamine disuccinic acid is the compound of formula (VI):

Preferably, the ethylene diamine disuccinic acid salt is selected from alkali metal salts, such as potassium and sodium salts, ammonium salts, and amine salts. The alkali metal salts of ethylenediamine disuccinic acid are more specifically preferred.

Preferably, the ethylene diamine disuccinic acid salt used according to the invention is trisodium ethylene diamine disuccinate. Such a compound is for example that marketed under the trade name Natrlquest® E30 by Innospec Active Chemicals (dispersion of the compound at 37% by weight of active substance in water), or that marketed under the trade name Octaquest E30® by Octel Performance Chemicals.

Preferably, among the usable active agents, betaine, EDTA disodium, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, adenosine, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-tbutyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, magnesium gluconate, phytic acid, or perfumes are preferred.

Among the preferred preservatives, mention can be made of hydroxyacetophenone, salicylic acid, phenoxyethanol and mixtures thereof.

Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided.

In the examples, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C) expressed in degrees Celsius unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless mentioned otherwise.

In the examples, quantities of the ingredients of the compositions are given as a % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (%w/w). EXAMPLES

Example 1 : Preparation of a composition according to the invention and comparative compositions

Composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* to C5* from Table 1 hereinafter are prepared according to the following protocol:

Preparation of phase B by mixing the ingredients at 65°C minimum in a homogenization tank

Addition of phase A (aqueous phase), homogeneous and heated to approximately 50°C

Addition of C with the dilution water to cool

Addition of phase D followed by gelling under stirring

Addition of the ingredients of phase E, fillers,

Addition of F, followed by G in inert atmosphere

Addition of alcohol (T below 30°C).

[Table 1 ]

Example 2: Sensory evaluation of compositions C1 and C2* to C5* Composition C1 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* to

C5* were evaluated by an expert panel of 20 people. The sensory aspect, such as the tackiness, during the application of the compositions on the skin was evaluated. The panel is made up of experts trained on different benchmark products according to a standardized application procedure. The evaluation criteria are standardized and scored on a scale of 1 to 15 (from not to very). 0.05 ml of formula is applied on one cheek by spreading around 10 times. The hands are washed with water and soap and then dried before evaluating different parameters including tackiness and slip evaluated 2 minutes after application.

The results obtained are compiled in Table 2 below:

[Table 2]

A 10% difference is considered as substantial.

The results obtained demonstrate that composition C1 according to the invention differs from comparative compositions C2* to C5* in that it is perceived as

- less greasy and less slippery on application, and

- non-tacky, less slippery and less film-forming after application

This demonstrates synergistic effects of combining silica and superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer.

Example 3: Rheological evaluation of compositions C1 and C2* to C5*

The rheological studies hereinafter makes it possible to quantitatively measure the differences in texture between composition C1 according to the invention and compositions C2* to C5*.

Each composition was evaluated as follows:

The measurements are made on a controlled-stress rheometer, RS 600 from ThermoRheo, equipped with a thermostatically controlled bath and cone-plane geometry stainless steel spindle, of diameter 35 mm and angle 2°. The measurements are made at a temperature of 32°C.

The composition is then subjected to a harmonic shear according to a sinusoidally varying stress T(t) according to a pulsation co (co=2nu), u being the frequency of the shear applied. The composition thus sheared is subjected to a stress T(t) and responds according to a deformation y (t).

The stress T(t) and the deformation y (t) are defined respectively by the following equations: T(t) = To cos(w.t) Y(t)⁼ Yo cos(w.t - 6)

To being the maximum stress amplitude and yo being the maximum deformation amplitude. The elasticity 5 is the phase angle between the stress and the deformation.

The measurements are made at a frequency of 1 Hz (u = 1 Hz).

Increasing stresses are applied to the sample starting with an initial stress equal to 0.01 Pa to reach a final stress of 1000 Pa, the stresses only being applied once.

The evolution of the moduli of elasticity and viscosity G’ and G” of the elasticity 5 according to the stress T applied are measured.

The parameters evaluated are as follows:

- The stress (T) at the crossover point, which corresponds to the phase transition between a so-called solid state to a more liquid state, and

- The length of the plateau of the linear viscoelastic range G’ (linear range where the rheological parameters are independent of the stress applied), which indicates the period of varying length after which the material will modify its structure in response to the stress applied (referred to as LVR).

The results obtained are given in Table 3 below: [Table 3]

These results once again show a synergistic action provided by combining silica and superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer. Surprisingly, the stress at the phase transition is closer to that of silica (with a difference of -2.5%) whereas the extent of the viscoelastic range is more in line with that of a formula without filler or only with superabsorbent polymer. Despite their "absorbent" physico-chemistry, silica and the superabsorbent polymer combined in composition C1 according to the invention do not display cumulative absorbent properties. Composition C1 according to the invention has a lower LVR than comparative compositions C4* and C5*, which only comprise silica or superabsorbent polymer. The rheological properties of composition C1 according to the invention are therefore surprising and unexpected. Example 4: Use of another (comparative) polymer than superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer

Composition C6 according to the invention and comparative composition C7* from

Table 4 hereinafter are prepared according to the same protocol than example 1 .

[Table 4] Compositions C6 and C7* were evaluated by an expert panel following the same protocol than in example 2.

The obtained results are gathered in the following table 5:

[Table 5]

The results for glossness, smoothness, stringiness and immediate stickiness are statistically different.

Thus, these results demonstrate that composition C6 according to the invention differs from the comparative composition C7* in that it is perceived to be: - less shiny and less stringy when picked;

- less smooth in the container; and

- less sticky on the skin on immediate application.

This demonstrates a difference between the two compositions, and in particular highlights the beneficial effect of the superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer.

Claims

1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

- at least one anti-age active agent,

- a superabsorbent polymer chosen from starches grafted by an acrylic polymer,

- a first surfactant chosen from esters of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units,

- a second surfactant chosen from esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and sorbitan, and

- silica.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the superabsorbent polymer is a starch grafted by an acrylic homo- or copolymer, particularly sodium polyacrylate, which is presented preferably in particle form.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the superabsorbent polymer is present at an active substance content greater than 0.05% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.06% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.08% to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the first surfactant is chosen from esters of C14-C24 fatty acid, advantageously stearic acid, and polyethylene glycol comprising 20 to 50 ethylene oxide units, preferably comprising from 35 to 45 ethylene oxide units.

5. Composition according one of the preceding claims, wherein the first surfactant is present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1 % to 3% by weight.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the second surfactant is present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.25% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1 .5% by weight.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the silica is present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 3% by weight.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the antiage active agent is chosen from retinol and its derivatives, vitamins and their derivatives, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, panthenol and its derivatives, niacinamide and its derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the antiage active agent is retinol and/or one of its derivatives, preferably at an active substance content ranging from 0.1% to 0.7% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is an oil-in-water emulsion.

11. Cosmetic care method of keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising application of a composition according to one of the preceding claims on said keratin materials.

12. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, preferably to hydrate the skin and/or to reduce the appearance of signs of aging of keratin materials and/or reduce the signs of aging of keratin materials, in particular the skin.