EP4604904A1

EP4604904A1 - Composition comprising a lipophilic organic screening agent, a hydrophilic organic screening agent, with an amount by weight of fatty phase between 20 and 70%

Info

Publication number: EP4604904A1
Application number: EP23789553.7A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Aurélie PILLOT
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2022-10-21
Filing date: 2023-10-10
Publication date: 2025-08-27
Also published as: CN120548162A; WO2024083567A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents being greater than 0.3, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the viscosity of the composition being less than or equal to 500 mPa.s. The present invention also relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent, at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, and at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition and the amount of hydrophilic organic screening agents being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Description

Composition comprising a lipophilic organic screening agent, a hydrophilic organic screening agent, with an amount by weight of fatty phase between 20 and 70%

A wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known to date for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They mostly contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV screening agents, conveyed in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.

It is also known that high contents of screening agents are required to achieve high levels of screening efficiency.

However, high contents of UV screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.

Thus, formulations with high screening power can have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations. In particular, the difficulty that comes with photoprotective formulations that have a high protection factor is often that of limiting or even avoiding a strong greasy and tacky feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.

Moreover, the introduction of a high content of UV screening agents may cause destabilization problems. This instability may even occasionally cause phase separation of the emulsion and/or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation inefficient or even unusable.

To overcome the abovementioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect on application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous presentation forms have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV screening agents can have the drawback of being tacky and thus uncomfortable, but also very fluid.

It has also been proposed to structure an aqueous gel containing screening agents using polymers. However, this solution is not satisfactory since the structuring polymers generally selected are not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of tack.

In order to overcome the abovementioned undesirable effects, consideration has already been given to the use of aqueous compositions containing UV screening agents in combination with other specific compounds.

Thus, the joint use of mineral thickeners of clay type has been proposed for stabilizing the compositions and optionally reducing the tacky nature of photoprotective compositions. However, clays can whiten the compositions, which then lose their transparency properties.

Consequently, it remains difficult to reconcile, in one and the same photoprotective composition, opposing technical performance qualities, such as a high level of UV protection, which usually implies a greasy and tacky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory aspect, brought about in particular by a fresh sensation.

There is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is advantageously transparent on the skin.

In particular, there is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which has pleasant sensory properties and which is advantageously refreshing, and preferably transparent on the skin.

This need for such a photoprotective composition is all the greater since the daily photoprotection market is growing rapidly. Increasing numbers of hybrid products providing skincare and SPF 15-20 protection are being launched, but the challenge remains of having higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application.

It is therefore sought to have a product with a high SPF while at the same time keeping the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory aspect.

In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory feel, in particular with a melting sensory feel and a non-greasy and non-tacky finish, allowing a high daily photoprotection.

There is also a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which is perfectly stable, i.e. not subject to demixing.

The introduction, into a composition comprising UV screening agents, of a superabsorbent polymer in order to reduce the tack has already been disclosed in EP 2 266 531 B1. However, the sensory aspect of the compositions thus obtained could be improved for daily use.

The present invention is specifically targeted at meeting these needs.

Disclosure of the invention

A subject the present invention is a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

a) at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent; and

b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent;

the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Another subject of the present invention is a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:

a) at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent; and

b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent;

the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition;

the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents being greater than 0.3;

the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

the viscosity of the composition being less than or equal to 500 mPa.s.

Another subject of the present invention is a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent, at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, and at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer,

the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition; and

the amount of hydrophilic organic screening agents being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in a photoprotective composition comprising between 20% and 70% by weight of fatty phase, of one or more hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in combination with one or more lipophilic organic UV screening agents, makes it possible to obtain a galenic formulation with a strong photoprotective power, with good cosmetic properties, especially with a non-greasy, non-tacky and non-shiny finish, and which is nevertheless stabilized over time.

In particular, the inventors have found that the use, in a photoprotective composition with a viscosity of less than or equal to 500 mPa.s and comprising between 20% and 70% by weight of fatty phase, of one or more hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in combination with one or more lipophilic organic UV screening agents, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents being greater than 0.3, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to obtain a galenic formulation having a strong photoprotective power, with good cosmetic properties, especially with a non-greasy, non-tacky and non-shiny finish, and which is nevertheless stabilized over time.

The inventors have also found that the use, in a photoprotective composition, of one or more hydrophilic copolymers comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, in combination with one or more hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and one or more lipophilic organic UV screening agents, the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition and the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition, makes it possible to obtain a galenic formulation having a strong photoprotective power, with good cosmetic properties, especially with a non-greasy, non-tacky and non-shiny finish, and which is nevertheless stabilized over time.

Advantageously, the use of these compositions makes it possible to obtain a galenic formulation which is stabilized, having a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a strong anti-UV protective power.

Thus, these photoprotective compositions advantageously make it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to each other.

A subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is also the use of a composition such as those which are defined above , for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and/or facial skin.

Another subject of the invention, according to yet another of its aspects, is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials, of a composition such as those defined previously.

The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition such as those which are defined previously.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition such as those which are defined previously.

The compositions in accordance with the invention exhibit good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and/or microscopically, after storage for one week, one month, or two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C or at 55°C. A stable composition generally maintains its comfort and its sensorial signature on application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively for example by the absence of any phase-separation phenomenon on or appearance of crystals, or quantitatively through the monitoring of the change in parameters such as the viscosity or the pH.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “SPF” means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation. The value of the SPF corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain sunburn with an anti-sun composition and the minimum time without product. More specifically, the term “SPF” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).

Evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro with a Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied. For this protocol, poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) plates proved to be ideal.

Evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be performed in vivo according to the protocol ISO/EN 24444 “Cosmetics - Sun protection test methods - in-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) (2010)”.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “PPD” (Persistent Pigment Darkening): is intended to mean the index characterizing the protection with respect to UVA radiation. In particular, the “PPD” measures the colour of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for the UVA labelling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective as of January 1, 1996).

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will become apparent on reading the detailed description that follows.

The compositions according to the invention are intended for topical application and therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is understood here to mean a medium which is compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood to mean in particular the skin, scalp, keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

In the text hereinbelow, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, particularly in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

Moreover, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in the present description are equivalent respectively to the expressions “one or more” and “greater than or equal to”.

The term “preventing” or “prevention” is intended to mean, according to the invention, reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.

The term “organic UVA screening agent” is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecules to likewise also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.

The term “organic UVB screening agent” is understood to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions are in the form of an emulsion.

The term “emulsion” means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases; one being a dispersing continuous phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are kinetically generally stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

A distinction is made between emulsions of oil-in-water type, termed “direct”, constituted of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and of a non-continuous oily dispersed phase, and emulsions of water-in-oil type, termed “inverse”, constituted of a continuous oily dispersing phase and of a non-continuous aqueous dispersed phase. Multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, also exist.

Detailed description of the invention UV screening agents

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent.

Lipophilic organic UV screening agents

The term “organic lipophilic screening agent” is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

The lipophilic organic screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93/04665; α-alkylstyrene-based dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the lipophilic organic screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, as examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents, of those denoted below under their INCI name and/or their chemical name.

Cinnamic compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol® MCX by DSM Nutritional Products;

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name Parsol® 1789 by DSM Nutritional Products,

Salicylic compounds:

Homosalate sold under the name Parsol® HMS by DSM Nutritional Products,

Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by Symrise,

β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds:

Octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by BASF,

Benzophenone compounds:

Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF,

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus or, as a mixture with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus B by BASF,

Benzylidenecamphor compounds:

4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name Eusolex® 6300 by Merck,

Phenylbenzotriazole compounds:

Drometrizole Trisiloxane produced under the name Mexoryl® XL by Noveal,

Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name MIXXIM BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical,

Triazine compounds:

- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), with the INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine,

- bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb® S by BASF,

- Ethylhexyl Triazone, sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® T 150 by BASF,

- Diethylhexyl Butamidotriazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb® HEB by 3V sigma,

- the symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in US 6 225 467, patent application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symmetrical triazine derivatives” (IP.COM) IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (20 September 2004),

Anthranilic compounds:

Methyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan® MA by Symrise,

Benzalmalonate compounds:

Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions, such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.

Hydrophilic organic UV screening agents

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrophilic organic UV screening agent” is understood to mean a water-soluble organic UV screening agent or a water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.

The term “water-soluble organic screening agent” is understood to mean any organic screening agent capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in an aqueous liquid phase or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous liquid phase.

The term “water-dispersible organic screening agent” means any organic screening agent that is capable of forming, in a liquid aqueous phase, a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume-average size of less than 100 microns. The volume-average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV screening agent and at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, notably described in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. Mention may notably be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that produced under the name “Mexoryl® SX” by Noveal,

These screening agents correspond to general formula (I) below:

in which F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R₁)₃ ⁺ in which the radicals R₁, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C₁ to C₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn⁺, Mn⁺ denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn⁺ preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca²⁺, Zn²⁺, Mg²⁺, Ba²⁺, Al³⁺ and Zr⁴⁺. It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the “cis-trans” isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers come within the context of the present invention.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA screening agents that may be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds including at least two benzazolyl groups bearing sulfonic groups, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.

They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in patent US 2 463 264 and also in patent application EP-A-0669323.

The compounds comprising at least two benzazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to general formula (II) below:

(II)

in which:

- Z represents an organic residue of valency (l + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a totally conjugated assembly;

- X’ denotes S, O or NR⁶;

- R¹denotes a hydrogen atom, a C₁ to C₁₈ alkyl, a C₁ to C₄ alkoxy, a C₅ to C₁₅ aryl, a C₂ to C₁₈ acyloxy, or a group SO₃Y or COOY;

- the radicals R², R³, R⁴ and R⁵, which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R¹;

- R⁶ denotes a hydrogen atom, a C₁ to C₄ alkyl or a C₁ to C₄ hydroxyalkyl;

- Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH₄, 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organic nitrogen base;

- m is 0 or 1;

- n is a number from 2 to 6;

- l is a number from 1 to 4;

- with the proviso that l + n does not exceed the value 6.

Among these compounds, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or a salt thereof, having the following structure, sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan® AP by Symrise:

Preferably, the water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is produced under the name Mexoryl SX by Noveal.

The water-soluble organic UVB screening agents that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, as examples of water-soluble organic UVB screening agents, of phenylbenzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232^® by Merck.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.

When the water-soluble UV screening agent is of sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

The term “alkanolamine” means a C₂-C₁₀ compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol, generally primary alcohol, function. As suitable alkanolamines, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: Tromethamine) and triethanolamine.

Among the water-dispersible organic screening agents, mention may be made of the following screening agents.

Benzophenone compounds:

1,1'-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007/071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (volume-average size of 0.02 to 2 µm), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds:

Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol,

in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure C_nH_2n+1O(C₆H₁₀O₅)_xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C₆H₁₀O₅) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by BASF, or

in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 μm, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C₈-C₂₀)alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392, in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by BASF,

Triazine compounds:

- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form having the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name Tinosorb® S LiteAqua by BASF,

- symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine sold under the name Tinosorb® A2B by BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985,

Benzoxazole compounds:

2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, having the CAS number 904-39-2.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a first preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent in an amount of less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a second preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “free of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents” is understood to mean an amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents (weight amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents divided by the weight amount of lipophilic organic UV screening agents) is greater than 0.3.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents is between 0.35 and 1.

Inorganic UV screening agents

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one inorganic UV screening agent.

The inorganic UV screening agents which can be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 µm and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are in particular described in annex VI, updated on 22 September 2021, of EU regulation number 1223/2009 regarding cosmetic products, but are not limited to this list.

They can be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.

Such coated or non-coated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments mention may be made of the products sold by Croda, Tayca and Merck.

The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.

The coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated:

- with silica hydrate, such as the product MT-100WP from Tayca,

- with silica and iron oxide, such as the product Sunveil F® from Ikeda,

- with silica and alumina, such as the products MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® from Tayca and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda,

- with alumina, such as the product TTO-55 (A)® from Ishihara,

- with alumina and aluminium stearate, such as the products MT-100TV®, MT-100Z^® and MT-01^® from Tayca, the product Solaveil™ CT100 from Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO^® from Merck,

- with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as the product MT-100AQ^® from Tayca,

- with alumina and aluminium laurate,

- with iron oxide and iron stearate,

- with zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

- with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products MT-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Tayca,

- with silica, alumina, and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone,

- with silica and treated with a silicone,

- with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® from Ishihara,

- with triethanolamine,

- with stearic acid, such as the product TTO-55 (C)® from Ishihara,

- with sodium hexametaphosphate,

- TiO₂ treated with octyltrimethylsilane,

- TiO₂ treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,

- anatase/rutile TiO₂ treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane,

- TiO₂ coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil^TM CT-200 by Croda,

- TiO₂ coated with aluminium stearate, with alumina and with silicone, sold under the trade name Solaveil^TM CT-12W by Croda,

- TiO₂ coated with lauroyl lysine,

- TiO₂ coated with C₉-C₁₅ fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminium hydroxide.

Mention may also be made of TiO₂ pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO₂ particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, or the product sold under the trade name Optisol^TM OTP-1 by Croda.

The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B® or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- those sold under the name Z-Cote® by BASF;

- those sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by Nanophase Technologies.

The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:

- ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane;

- Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);

- those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by Daito Kasei (dispersions in C₉-C₁₂ alkane with a dispersant);

- those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by Solvay.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, especially of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the mixture in equal weights of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, coated in silica, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.

When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV screening agents, the coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the composition is free of inorganic screening agents.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “free of inorganic UV screening agents” is understood to mean an amount of inorganic UV screening agents of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in the composition is greater than or equal to 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is between 4% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to one preferred embodiment, the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is between 5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the total amount of UV screening agents present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV screening agents present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 18% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “total amount of UV screening agents” means the sum of the concentrations of each of the UV screening agents present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and inorganic UV screening agents.

Hydrophilic AMPS copolymers

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®).

The term “copolymer” is understood to mean, for the purposes of the invention, a polymer comprising at least two distinct monomer units.

The term “hydrophilic polymer” is understood to mean, for the purposes of the invention, a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The term “water-soluble or water-dispersible” means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a weight concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymer comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.

They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

The term “crosslinked polymer” is intended to mean a nonlinear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, diallyl urea, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

According to the invention, the monomers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) preferably correspond to the general formula below:

in which X⁺ denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R₁denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₆ alkyl radical such as methyl, and R₁ preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention is (are) partially or completely salified in the form of the ammonium salt.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention is (are) completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt.

The AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above. When said copolymers include hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may or may not comprise fatty chains.

According to a first particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

According to a second particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprise at least one fatty chain.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” is understood to mean any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or non-ionic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble comonomers are non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:

- styrenesulfonic acid,

- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

- vinylphosphonic acid,

- maleic acid,

- itaconic acid,

- crotonic acid,

- water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula below:

in which:

- R₁ is chosen from H, -CH₃, -C₂H₅ and -C₃H₇;

- X₁ is chosen from:

- alkyl oxides of type -OR₂ where R₂is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonate (-SO₃ ^-) and/or sulfate (-SO₄ ^-) and/or phosphate (-PO₄ ^2-) group.

Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made in particular of:

- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

- maleic anhydride,

- vinylamine,

- N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

- vinyl alcohol of formula CH₂=CHOH,

- water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula below:

in which:

- R₃ is chosen from H, -CH₃, -C₂H₅ and -C₃H₇;

- X₂ is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR₄ where R₄is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.

Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and (meth)acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.

Among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, mention may be made, for example, of:

- styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

- vinyl acetate of formula CH₂=CH-OCOCH₃;

- vinyl ethers of formula CH₂=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- acrylonitrile;

- caprolactone;

- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

- silicone derivatives, which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;

- hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula below:

in which:

- R₄ is chosen from H, -CH₃, -C₂H₅ and -C₃H₇;

- X₃ is chosen from:

- alkyl oxides of the type -OR₅ where R₅is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Mention is made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 100 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 100 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 70 000 000 g/mol.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized by sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

- copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methylpropanesulfonate/Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer).

As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups.

Preferably, when the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, and saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based fatty acid chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms.

The copolymer(s) may be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS copolymer(s) is (are) crosslinked.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) is (are) crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferentially they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) can also comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula below:

in which R₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C₁-C₆ alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R₂ denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y denotes an oxygen atom.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the R₁ group represents a methyl.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the group R₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R₁ represents a methyl, the group R₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic monomer of formula 8 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula 8 in which the group Y denotes O, the group R₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.

Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the group R₁ representing a methyl, and the group R₂ representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In this embodiment, the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

According to one particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group R₁ representing a methyl, and the group R₂ representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and at least one monomer of formula 8 in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R₁ represents a methyl, the group R₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers with a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the following general formula:

in which R₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄ linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably R₁ denotes a hydrogen atom, R₂ denotes a C₁-C₄ linear or branched alkyl radical and R₃ denotes a C₁-C₄ linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably R₂ and R₃ denote a methyl.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N-(C₁-C₄)alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(C₁-C₄)alkylacrylamides such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked, such as, for example, the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax Zen by SEPPIC, and of the INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one copolymer of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methylpropanesulfonate/Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer).

The AMPS® copolymers(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fillers

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid.

The term “filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white and mineral or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced.

The fillers used in the present invention may be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), their non-tapped density and/or their oil-absorbing capacity.

The specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The specific surface per unit of volume is given by the relationship: S_V = S_W x ρ, where ρ is the tamped density, expressed in g/cm³, and S_W is the specific surface per unit of weight, expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tapped density protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder; the measuring cylinder is then placed on the Stav 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 tapping actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); and then the final volume Vf of tapped powder is measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The tapped density is determined by the ratio w/Vf, in the case in point 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm³ and w in g).

The oil-absorbing capacity, measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the “wet point” method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in the standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate, and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing is performed using a spatula, and addition of oil is continued until conglomerates of oil and powder have formed. From this point, the oil is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread over the glass plate without cracks or the formation of lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The sizes of the fillers may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to one particular embodiment, the fillers that may be used in the present invention have an oil-absorbing capacity of from 0.25 g/g to 3.5 g/g, preferably from 0.93 g/g to 2.5 g/g, or even from 1.25 g/g to 2.5 g/g.

According to one particular embodiment, the fillers that may be used in the present invention have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.1 µm to 40 µm, preferably from 0.5 µm to 20 µm and even more preferentially from 1 µm to 16 µm.

According to one particular embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have a non-tapped density ranging from 0.2 g/cm³ to 2.2 g/cm³.

According to one particular embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 m²/g to 1000 m²/g and more particularly from 150 m²/g to 800 m²/g.

In the present patent application, the term “spherical particles” means particles in the form or substantially in the form of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C).

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical porous silica particles are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.5 to 30 µm, more particularly from 1 to 20 µm and preferentially from 1 to 16 µm.

Use may be made, as examples of porous silica microbeads, of the following commercial products: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferentially SB 300 from Miyoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere range from Asahi Glass AGC Si-Tech, especially Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13 and M16, the silicas MSS-500 from Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N, and also Silica Shells from Kobo.

According to a specific embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles which can be used in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.1 to 35 µm, preferably from 1 to 20 µm and more particularly from 4 to 15 µm.

Examples of spherical cellulose microparticles that may especially be mentioned include the solid cellulose beads sold under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF by Daito Kasei Kogyo.

The N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a specific embodiment, the N-acylamino acid(s) comprise(s) an acyl group having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is a lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylamino acid powder may be a lauroyllysine powder such as the product sold under the name Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or the product sold under the name Corum 5105 S by Corum.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid have a heterogeneous particle size, i.e. a large size distribution for a given size expressed as the volume-mean diameter.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least three fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least three fillers that are different from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical porous silica particles, in particular spherical porous silica microparticles, the second is chosen from spherical cellulose particles, and the third is chosen from powders of an N-acylamino acid.

According to one preferred embodiment, the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and powders of N-acylamino acid is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably, between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to another preferred embodiment, the weight ratio (spherical particles of cellulose + powders of N-acylamino acid)/(spherical particles of porous silica) is between 0.25 and 1.

The composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler other than the spherical porous silica particles, the spherical cellulose particles and the powders of an N-acylamino acid.

Fatty phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase.

The fatty phase can be constituted by all of the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetics or dermatological fields; it can comprise in particular at least one oil. It can also comprise at least one pasty compound and/or at least one wax and/or at least one fatty alcohol. The fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agent(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

The term “oil” is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile oil” refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention is (are) volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The term “non-volatile oil” is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10^-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus, these oils can in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The term “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and especially at least one Si-O group.

Mention may in particular be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of:

(i) hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C₄ to C₂₄, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel;

(ii) synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof;

(iv) synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R' ≥ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, such as the product sold under the name Dub Dis by Stéarinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as di(linear C₁₂-C₁₃ alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETI® by Enichem Augusta Industriale, and also di(linear C₁₄-C₁₅ alkyl) tartrates, such as those sold under the name Cosmacol ETL® by the same company; acetates;

(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) C₁₂-C₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;

and mixtures thereof.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and notably branched C₈-C₁₆ alkanes, such as C₈-C₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C₈-C₁₆ esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut kernel or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C₁₁) and n-tridecane (C₁₃) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155 059 from Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C₁₂) and n-tetradecane (C₁₄) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8×10^-6 m²/s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as:

3-butyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,

3-propyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and

3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane.

Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.

Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:

- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol);

- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of a glycerol oligomer, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;

- and mixtures thereof.

The overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 20% to 70% by weight and preferentially from 30% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.

An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.

The water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise, in addition to the short-chain alcohols, as defined above, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

By way of examples of cosmetic active agents, mention may be made of moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular the esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, and mixtures thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; algal, fungal, plant, yeast and bacterial extracts; enzymes; tightening agents; agents which act on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. It is preferably polyglycerin-3.

It is easy for those skilled in the art to adjust the amount of cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention can also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preserving agents (for example chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as polysaccharides), pH adjusters (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example aluminium starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.

Those skilled in the art can select the amount of additional adjuvants or additives in such a way as to not be detrimental to the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Presentation forms

According to one particular embodiment, the viscosity of the compositions in accordance with the invention, at 25°C and under atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 300 mPa.s.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the viscosity is greater than or equal to 20 mPa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 100 mPa.s.

The viscosity can be measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM180® rheometer from Maple Instruments, at a rotation speed of 200 rpm with a TV No. 2 spindle, after 10 minutes. The value of the viscosity is obtained in Pa.s.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W), such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (invert emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that may be used are of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.

In order to obtain stable emulsions with a low content of polymer (oil/polymer ratio > 25), it is possible to prepare the dispersion in concentrated phase and then to dilute the dispersion with the remainder of the aqueous phase.

It is also possible, via HPH (between 50 and 800 bar), to obtain stable dispersions with drop sizes that may be as small as 100 nm.

The emulsions generally may contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

Mention may be made, as examples of W/O non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; or silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C® by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol, sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning, or cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE O9® by Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers, which may be chosen advantageously from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters, may also be added thereto.

Mention may also be made of nonsilicone emulsifying surfactants, notably alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.

Polyol alkyl esters that may in particular be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by ICI.

Examples of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters that may be mentioned include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, for the O/W emulsions, for example, as non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol such as the esters of polyethylene glycol and of stearic acid having the INCI name PEG-100 Stearate, sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) ethers of fatty alcohols; esters of sugars, such as sucrose stearate; or ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, in particular alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside, sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68® by SEPPIC, under the name Tegocare CG90® by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202® by SEPPIC. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkyl polyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, for example as described in document WO-A-92/06778.

As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O/W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C₈-C₃₀, preferably C₈-C₂₄, hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: Acyl Glutamic Acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, in particular Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (INCI name).

Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.

As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O/W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkyl carbamate groups, in particular C₈-C₁₈ alkyl carbamate groups, and more particularly lauryl carbamate groups.

Examples of these compounds that may in particular be mentioned include the product sold under the name Inutec SL1 by Creachem.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol., 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention have applications in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or hair and/or for making up the skin and/or lips.

Another subject of the present invention is constituted of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above in the production of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular of care products, sun protection products and makeup products.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which do not in any way limit the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific features, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.

In these examples, the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as % by weight of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sensory evaluation

The cosmetic properties are evaluated by 4 individuals trained in the description of care products and trained in the Playtime & Touch protocol. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in jars and tested on SkinFX synthetic skin. Within one and the same session, the samples are presented to each panel member at the same time. The experts place a drop of product (0.05 ml) on the back of the hand and spread the product for 15 seconds. After an additional 15 seconds, spreading is resumed, again for 15 seconds.

The descriptors regarding glidance, tackiness, greasiness (amount of film-forming agent on the fingers) and shininess are evaluated after 2 minutes 45 seconds, in total.

These descriptors are evaluated on a scale graded from 1 to 5: 1 = none, 2 = little, 3 = moderate, 4 = fair amount, 5 = high, and the notation reflects a consensus of the experts. For the glidance and shininess descriptors, the grade for bare skin is 3.

Stability study

The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (appearance, colour, odour, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 week at 55°C and at 1 month at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.

The macroscopic stability is assessed with the naked eye and the microscopic stability is assessed with a white light optical microscope.

Protocol for evaluating the screening efficiency

In vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were made using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere.

The in vitro UVA protection factor (PPD) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modelling according to the protocol ISO 24443: 2012 (Fr).

Each composition is applied to six rough plates of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg/cm². Each composition is spread using an automated robot which makes even and uniform movements on three plates termed HD6 (moulded granular plates) and three plates termed SB6 (sandy granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the spreading has been done on the six plates, the latter are left to stand in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. The measurements are carried out by means of a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere. Nine measurements are carried out per plate, then the measurements are analysed using an Excel spreadsheet which provides the SPF and PPD values of the composition measured.

Example 1 - Composition 1

The following composition is prepared.

Phase	Composition	1
A1	Water/Aqua	30
A1	Propanediol	3
A1	Complexing agent(s)	0.3
A1	Caprylyl Glycol	0.3
A2	PEG-20	0.2
A2	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)	0.3
A2	Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem)	0.3
A3	Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck)	7
A3	Sodium Hydroxide	1.02
B1	Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)	1.4
B1	Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise)	5
B1	Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)	3
B1	Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S from BASF)	3
B1	Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)	2
B1	Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T150 from BASF)	2.5
B1	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	10
B2	Dimethicone	3.4
B2	Titanium Dioxide	0.01
B2	Fragrance	0.25
B2	Tocopherol	0.1
B3	Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)	1.2
B3	Xanthan Gum	0.1
C	Water/Aqua	14.12
D	Denat. Alcohol	5
E	Silica (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)	2
E	Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)	0.25
E	Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)	0.75
F	Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)	4

Method for preparing Composition 1

Phase A is prepared in the following manner:

Introduction of the starting materials of phases A1 and A2 into a beaker and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.

Introduction of the starting materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:

Introduction of the starting materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.

Stopping of the heating and addition, with stirring, of the starting materials of phase B2 and then of phase B3. Dispersion until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and maintaining of the temperature at 65°C.

At 65°C, phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring.

Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.

Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.

Dispersion with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while commencing cooling.

Continued cooling with scraper blade stirring only.

At a temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D and of the starting materials of phase E.

Dispersion with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.

Continued cooling with, if necessary, scraper blade stirring only.

Introduction of phase F.

Dispersion with scraper blade stirring only, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, while keeping the temperature constant.

Results obtained

The sensory analysis results are as follows:

Composition	1
Tackiness	1/5 (not tacky)
Greasiness	1/5 (not greasy)
Glidance	3/5 (like bare skin)
Shine	3.5/5 (very slightly shinier than bare skin)

Composition 1 according to the invention has good cosmetic qualities; it is in particular non-tacky and non-greasy.

In addition, it makes it possible to provide good sun protection, with an SPF of 50 and a PPD of 17.

Examples 2 to 5 – Influence of the weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and lipophilic organic UV screening agents

The following compositions are prepared.

Phase	Composition	2	3
A1	Water/Aqua	30	30
A1	Propanediol	3	3
A1	Complexing agent(s)	0.3	0.3
A1	Caprylyl Glycol	0.3	0.3
A2	PEG-20	0.2	0.2
A2	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)	0.3	0.3
A2	Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem)	0.3	0.3
A3	Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck)	7	7
A3	Sodium Hydroxide	1.02	1.02
B1	Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)	1.4	1.4
B1	Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise)	-	5
B1	Octocrylene (Uvinul N 539 T from BASF)	-	1
B1	Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)	3	3.5
B1	Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S from BASF)	3	3
B1	Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)	2	2
B1	Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T150 from BASF)	2.5	3
B1	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	15	10
B2	Dimethicone	3.4	3.4
B2	Fragrance	0.25	0.25
B2	Tocopherol	0.1	0.1
B3	Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)	1.2	1
B3	Xanthan Gum	0.1	0.1
C	Water/Aqua	q.s. 100	q.s. 100
D	Denat. Alcohol	5	5
E	Silica (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)	2	2
E	Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)	0.25	0.25
E	Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)	0.75	0.75
F	Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)	4	-
Weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and lipophilic organic UV screening agents		0.85	0.4

Phase	Composition	4	5
A1	Water/Aqua	30	30
A1	Propanediol	3	3
A1	Complexing agent(s)	0.3	0.3
A1	Caprylyl Glycol	0.3	0.3
A2	PEG-20	0.2	0.2
A2	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)	0.3	0.3
A2	Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem)	0.3	0.3
A3	Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck)	3	8
A3	Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX from Noveal)	-	4.55
A3	Sodium Hydroxide	0.46	1.39
B1	Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)	1.4	1.4
B1	Octocrylene (Uvinul N 539 T from BASF)	7	-
B1	Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)	3	2
B1	Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S from BASF)	4	3
B1	Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)	2	2
B1	Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T150 from BASF)	3.6	2
B1	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	10	10
B2	Dimethicone	3.4	3.4
B2	Fragrance	0.25	0.25
B2	Tocopherol	0.1	0.1
B3	Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)	1	1.2
B3	Xanthan Gum	0.1	0.1
C	Water/Aqua	q.s. 100	q.s. 100
D	Denat. Alcohol	5	5
E	Silica (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)	2	2
E	Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)	0.25	0.25
E	Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)	0.75	0.75
F	Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)	4	4
Weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and lipophilic organic UV screening agents		0.15	1.4

Method for preparing the compositions

Phase A is prepared in the following manner:

Introduction of the starting materials of phases A1 and A2 and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.

Phase B is prepared as follows:

Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.

Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.

Continued cooling with scraper blade stirring only.

Continued cooling with, if necessary, scraper blade stirring only.

Introduction of phase F.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows:

Composition	2	3
Viscosity in mPa.s	254	286
pH	7.0 ± 0.3	6.7 ± 0.3
Stability after 1 week at 55°C	Stable	Stable
Sensoriality: tacky	1/5	1/5
SPF	55.6	60.6

Composition	4	5
Viscosity in mPa.s	270	304
pH	7.1 ± 0.3	6.8 ± 0.3
Stability after 1 week at 55°C	Stable	Stable
Sensoriality: tacky	2.5/5	2.5/5
SPF	60.3	60.2

These results show that, for equivalent stability and equivalent sun protection, the compositions having a weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and lipophilic organic UV screening agents of between 0.3 and 1 (cf. Compositions 2 and 3) are less tacky than the compositions having a weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and lipophilic organic UV screening agents of less than 0.3 (cf. composition 4) or greater than 1 (cf. composition 5).

Examples 6 to 10 - Influence of the presence of polymers on the stability

The following compositions are prepared.

Phase	Composition	6	7	8
A1	Water/Aqua	30	30	30
A1	Phenyl Benzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck)	7	7	7
A1	Sodium Hydroxide	1.02	1.02	1.02
A1	Propanediol	3	3	3
A1	Complexing agent(s)	0.3	0.3	0.3
A1	PEG-20	0.2	0.2	0.2
A2	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)	0.3	0.3	0.3
A2	Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem)	0.3	0.3	0.3
B1	Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)	1.4	1.4	1.4
B1	Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise)	4.5	4.5	4.5
B1	Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)	3	3	3
B1	Bis-Ethylhexyl Oxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine (Tinosorb S from BASF)	3	3	3
B1	Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T150 from BASF)	2.5	2.5	2.5
B1	Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)	2	2	2
B1	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	10	10	10
B1	Caprylyl Glycol	0.3	0.3	0.3
B2	Tocopherol	0.1	0.1	0.1
B2	Dimethicone	3.4	3.4	3.4
B2	Fragrance	0.25	0.25	0.25
B3	Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)	1.2	-	-
B3	Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (Sepimax Zen from SEPPIC)	-	0.25	-
B3	Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepimax C from SEPPIC)	-	-	0.25
B3	Xanthan Gum	0.1	0.1	0.1
C	Water/Aqua	q.s. 100	q.s. 100	q.s. 100
D	Denat. Alcohol	5	5	5
D	Silica (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)	2	2	2
D	Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)	0.75	0.75	0.75
D	Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)	0.25	0.25	0.25
E	Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)	4	4	4

Phase	Composition	9	10
A1	Water/Aqua	30	30
A1	Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck)	7	7
A1	Sodium Hydroxide	1.02	1.02
A1	Propanediol	3	3
A1	Complexing agent(s)	0.3	0.3
A1	PEG-20	0.2	0.2
A2	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)	0.3	0.3
A2	Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem)	0.3	0.3
B1	Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)	1.4	1.4
B1	Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise)	4.5	4.5
B1	Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)	3	3
B1	Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S from BASF)	3	3
B1	Ethylhexyl Triazone	2.5	2.5
B1	Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)	2	2
B1	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	10	10
B1	Caprylyl Glycol	0.3	0.3
B2	Tocopherol	0.1	0.1
B2	Dimethicone	3.4	3.4
B2	Fragrance	0.25	0.25
B3	Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant)	0.5	-
B3	Carbomer (Carbopol 980 Polymer from Lubrizol)	-	0.4
B3	Xanthan Gum	0.1	0.1
C	Water/Aqua	q.s. 100	q.s. 100
C	Triethanolamine	-	0.4
D	Denat. Alcohol	5	5
D	Silica (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)	2	2
D	Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)	0.75	0.75
D	Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)	0.25	0.25
E	Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)	4	4

Method for preparing the compositions

Phase A is prepared in the following manner:

Introduction of the starting materials of phase A1 and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.

Introduction of the starting materials of phase A2. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:

Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.

Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.

Continued cooling with scraper blade stirring only.

At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D.

Continued cooling with, if necessary, scraper blade stirring only.

Introduction of phase E.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows:

Composition	6	7	8
Macroscopic physicochemical characterization	Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant	Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant	Fluid, airy and shiny, off-white, fragrant
Viscosity in mPa.s	270	391	278
pH	6.8 ± 0.3	7.0 ± 0.3	7.1 ± 0.3
Centrifugation	Nothing to report	Nothing to report	Nothing to report
Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C	Stable	Stable	Stable
Microscopic stability after 1 month at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C	Stable	Stable	Stable

Composition	9	10
Macroscopic physicochemical characterization	Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant	Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant
Viscosity in mPa.s	374	295
pH	6.8 ± 0.3	6.2 ± 0.3
Centrifugation	Nothing to report	Creaming
Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C	Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with different-size globules and loose edges	Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with different-size globules and loose edges

These results show that, when the compositions comprise an AMPS copolymer, in particular Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 6), Sepimax Zen from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 7)) and Sepimax C from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 8), these have a better stability over time than when the compositions comprise an AMPS homopolymer such as Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant (cf. Composition 9) or an acrylic polymer such as Carbopol 980 Polymer from Lubrizol (cf. Composition 10).

Examples 11 to 15 – Influence of the presence of fillers on the sensoriality

The following compositions are prepared.

Phase	Composition	11	12	13
A1	Water/Aqua	30	30	30
A1	Propanediol	3	3	3
A1	Complexing agent(s)	0.3	0.3	0.3
A1	Caprylyl Glycol	0.3	0.3	0.3
A2	PEG-20	0.2	0.2	0.2
A2	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)	0.3	0.3	0.3
A2	Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem)	0.3	0.3	0.3
A3	Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck)	7	7	7
A3	Sodium Hydroxide	1.02	1.02	1.02
B1	Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)	1.4	1.4	1.4
B1	Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)	3	3	3
B1	Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S from BASF)	3	3	3
B1	Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate: (Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)	2	2	2
B1	Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T150 from BASF)	2.5	2.5	2.5
B1	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	15	15	15
B2	Dimethicone	3.4	3.4	3.4
B2	Fragrance	0.25	0.25	0.25
B2	Tocopherol	0.1	0.1	0.1
B3	Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)	1.2	1.2	1.2
B3	Xanthan Gum	0.1	0.1	0.1
C	Water/Aqua	13.63	13.63	13.63
D	Denat. Alcohol	5	5	5
E	Silica (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)	2	2.8	1
E	Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)	0.25	0.1	0.1
E	Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)	0.75	0.1	1.9
F	Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)	4	4	4
Total amount (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powders + spherical porous silica particles)		3	3	3
Weight ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical porous silica particles)		0.5	0.07	2

Phase	Composition	14	15
A1	Water/Aqua	30	30
A1	Propanediol	3	3
A1	Complexing agent(s)	0.3	0.3
A1	Caprylyl Glycol	0.3	0.3
A2	PEG-20	0.2	0.2
A2	Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto)	0.3	0.3
A2	Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem)	0.3	0.3
A3	Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck)	7	7
A3	Sodium Hydroxide	1.02	1.02
B1	Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC)	1.4	1.4
B1	Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products)	3	3
B1	Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S from BASF)	3	3
B1	Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul A Plus Granular from BASF)	2	2
B1	Ethylhexyl Triazone (Uvinul T150 from BASF)	2.5	2.5
B1	Dicaprylyl Carbonate	15	15
B2	Dimethicone	3.4	3.4
B2	Fragrance	0.25	0.25
B2	Tocopherol	0.1	0.1
B3	Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC)	1.2	1.2
B3	Xanthan Gum	0.1	0.1
C	Water/Aqua	13.63	13.63
D	Denat. Alcohol	5	5
E	Silica (Sunsphere H51 from AGC Si-Tech)	1.9	1
E	Cellulose (Cellulobeads USF from Daito Kasei Kogyo)	1	0.125
E	Lauroyl Lysine (Amihope LL from Ajinomoto)	0.1	0.375
F	Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate (Tinosorb WPGL from BASF)	4	4
Total amount (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powders + spherical porous silica particles)		3	1.5
Weight ratio (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical porous silica particles)		0.58	0.5

Method for preparing the compositions

Phase A is prepared in the following manner:

Introduction of the starting materials of phase A1 and of phase A2 and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.

Phase B is prepared as follows:

Dispersion until a compliant emulsion is obtained.

Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.

Continued cooling with scraper blade stirring only.

Continued cooling with, if necessary, scraper blade stirring only.

Introduction of phase F.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows:

Composition	11	12	13
Viscosity in mPa.s	254	278	238
pH	7.0 ± 0.3	6.7 ± 0.3	6.7 ± 0.3
Stability after 1 week at 55°C	Stable	Stable	Stable
Sensoriality	Not greasy, not shiny	Too greasy and too shiny	Too greasy, too shiny

Composition	14	15
Viscosity in mPa.s	254	222
pH	6.7 ± 0.3	6.8 ± 0.3
Stability after 1 week at 55°C	Stable	Stable
Sensoriality	Not greasy, not shiny	Not greasy, not shiny

These results show that, for an equivalent sensoriality in terms of tackiness, an equivalent stability and an equivalent sun protection, when the compositions comprise a total amount of fillers of between 1% and 4% by weight with a (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical porous silica particles) weight ratio of between 0.25 and 1 (see Compositions 11, 14 and 15), said compositions have an optimum sensoriality as regards the greasy finish and the shininess.

Claims

Composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
a) at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent; and
b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent;
the amount of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to Claim, 1 in which:
the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents being greater than 0.3;
the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents being less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and
the viscosity of the composition being less than or equal to 500 mPa.s.
Composition according to Claim 1, comprising:
c) at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer; and
the amount of hydrophilic organic screening agents being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to either one of Claims 1 and 3, in which the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents is greater than 0.3.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the hydrophilic organic UV screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from water-soluble organic UV screening agents and water-dispersible organic UV screening agents.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one water-soluble organic UV screening agent and at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 and 3 to 6, in which the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1, 2 and 4 to 7, in which the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is greater than or equal to 4% by weight, preferably 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 and 3 to 8, the viscosity of the composition of which is less than or equal to 500 Pa.S.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the lipophilic organic UV screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenyl acrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the water-soluble UV screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid); and salts thereof.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, in which the water-dispersible organic UV screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which ranges from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure C_nH_2n+1O(C₆H₁₀O₅)_xH in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C₆H₁₀O₅) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6; methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which ranges from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono(C₈-C₂₀)alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine in its water-dispersible form and having the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine screening agents substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in which the total amount of UV screening agents is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, in which the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents is between 0.35 and 1.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1, 2 and 4 to 14, comprising at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®).
Composition according to either one of Claims 3 and 15, in which the AMPS copolymer(s) is (are) chosen from copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.
Composition according to Claim 16, in which the hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) is (are) non-ionic.
Composition according to either one of Claims 16 and 17, in which the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) comprise(s) a fatty chain.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 18, comprising at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 19, comprising at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is preferably completely salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, which is preferably crosslinked.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 20, in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 21, comprising at least three fillers that are different from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second of which is chosen from spherical particles of cellulose, and the third of which is chosen from powders of N-acylamino acid.
Composition according to Claim 22, in which the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and powders of N-acylamino acid is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to either one of Claims 22 and 23, in which the (spherical particles of cellulose + powders of N-acylamino acid )/(spherical particles of porous silica) weight ratio is between 0.25 and 1.
Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of said keratin material, of at least one composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 24.