FR3141060A1 - Composition comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter, a hydrophilic organic UV filter and a specific hydrophilic gelling polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: Composition comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter, a hydrophilic organic UV filter and a specific hydrophilic gelling polymer The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter, and at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), the quantity in the fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition and the quantity of hydrophilic organic filters being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Description

Composition comprising a lipophilic organic UV filter, a hydrophilic organic UV filter and a specific hydrophilic gelling polymer

The present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter, and at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane acid monomer. sulphonic acid (AMPS®), the quantity of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition and the quantity of hydrophilic organic filters being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

To date, a wide variety of photoprotective compositions are already known to protect keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. Essentially, they contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV filters, conveyed in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase, as an active anti-UV agent and are generally offered in a galenic form of emulsion or gel type. .

It is also known that high filter rates are necessary to achieve high levels of filtering efficiency.

However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to the easy development of compositions with a stabilized and pleasant texture.

Thus, formulations with high filtering power can present uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects, masking the freshness and comfort of the formulas. In particular, the difficulty for photoprotective formulations with a high protection index is often to limit or even avoid a significant feeling of oiliness and stickiness, and therefore a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on the surface. application and therefore not invisible on the skin.

Furthermore, the introduction of high UV filters can cause destabilization problems. This instability can sometimes even cause a phase shift of the emulsion and/or a loss of viscosity of the composition, rendering the formulation ineffective or even unusable.

To compensate for the aforementioned undesirable effects, and in particular to obtain a fresh effect upon application and an invisible effect on the skin, aqueous galenics have already been considered. However, these aqueous compositions containing UV filters can have the disadvantage of being sticky and therefore uncomfortable, but also very fluid.

It has also been proposed to structure an aqueous gel containing filters with polymers. This solution is, however, not satisfactory because the structuring polymers generally used are not always very resistant to electrolytes and can also degrade the sensory properties of the compositions in terms of stickiness.

To overcome the aforementioned undesirable effects, the use of aqueous compositions containing UV filters in combination with other specific compounds has already been considered.

Thus, the joint use of clay-type mineral thickeners has been proposed to stabilize the compositions and possibly reduce the stickiness of the photoprotective compositions. However, clays can whiten compositions which then lose their transparency properties.

Consequently, it remains difficult to reconcile, in the same photoprotective composition, opposing technical performances, such as a high level of UV protection which most often implies a greasy and sticky finish on the skin, and a pleasant sensory effect. materialized in particular by a sensation of freshness.

There is still a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and which is advantageously transparent on the skin.

In particular, there remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection, which has pleasant sensory properties and which is advantageously refreshing, and preferably transparent on the skin.

This need for such a photoprotective composition is all the greater as the daily photoprotection market is booming. More and more hybrid products providing skin care and protection at SPF 15-20 are being launched but there remains the challenge of having higher SPF values, for example greater than or equal to 30, or even greater than or equal to at 50, with a pleasant sensoriality for daily application.

We therefore seek to have a product with high SPF while keeping the sensory codes of skin care: Appearance, texture, consistency, sensory.

In other words, the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an interesting sensory, in particular with a melting sensory and a non-greasy and non-sticky finish, allowing high daily photoprotection.

There also remains a need for a photoprotective composition with a high level of UV protection and perfectly stable, that is to say not subject to demixing phenomena.

It has already been disclosed in patent EP 2 266 531 B1 to introduce a superabsorbent polymer into a composition comprising UV filters in order to reduce stickiness. However, the sensory of the compositions thus obtained could be improved for daily use.

The present invention aims precisely to meet these needs.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV filter, at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter, and at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido acid monomer 2 -methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®),
the quantity of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition; And
the quantity of hydrophilic organic filters being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the use, in a photoprotective composition, of one or more hydrophilic copolymers comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer, in association with one or more filters Hydrophilic organic UV filters and one or more lipophilic organic UV filters, the quantity of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition and the total quantity of hydrophilic organic UV filters being greater than or equal to 5% by weight. weight of the total weight of the composition, allows access to a galenic formulation having a strong photoprotective power, with good cosmetic properties, in particular with a non-greasy, non-sticky and non-shiny finish, and which is nevertheless stabilized over time.

Advantageously, the implementation of this composition provides access to a galenic formulation which is stabilized, presenting a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a strong anti-UV protective power.

Thus, this photoprotective composition advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to each other.

The invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to the use of a composition as defined above, for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or face.

The invention also relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or face, comprising at least application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the color and/or homogeneity of the complexion comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition such as previously defined.

It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of aging of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of the keratin material of at least one composition as defined above.

The composition according to the invention has good stability. This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and/or microscopically, after storage for one week, one month, or two months, at room temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C, or at 55°C. A stable composition generally retains its pleasantness and sensory signature upon application over time. More precisely, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively, for example by the absence of phase shift phenomena or the appearance of crystals, or quantitatively through monitoring the evolution of parameters such as viscosity or pH. .

For the purposes of the present invention, “ SPF ” (Sun Protection Factor in English) means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time it takes to get a sunburn with a sunscreen composition and that without a product. More precisely, the term “ SPF ” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmetic. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May/June 1989).

The assessment of SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer. The plate is the material on which the anti-solar composition is applied. For this protocol, polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) plates proved ideal.

The evaluation of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of the compositions can also be carried out in-vivo according to the ISO/EN 24444 protocol “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF) ( 2010).

For the purposes of the present invention, “ PPD ” (Persistent Pigment Darkening in English) means: the index characterizing the protection against UVA. In particular, the “ PPD ” measures the color of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japanese Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official testing procedure for UVA labeling of products and is frequently used by testing laboratories in Europe and the United States; (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective of January 1, 1996).

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the detailed description which follows.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here we mean “physiologically acceptable medium” a medium compatible with keratin materials.

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood in particular to mean skin, scalp, keratin fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes such as lips. , and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, eye contour, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

Furthermore, the expressions “at least one” and “at least” used in this description are respectively equivalent to the expressions “one or more” and “greater or equal”.

By “prevent” or “prevention”, according to the invention is meant the fact of reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of aging of a material keratin.

By “organic UVA filter” we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA radiation in the wavelength range between 320 and 400 nm; said molecule can also absorb UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

By “organic UVB filter”, we mean any organic chemical molecule capable of exclusively absorbing UVB radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 320 nm.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

By “emulsion” is meant any macroscopically homogeneous kinetically stable composition comprising at least two phases that are immiscible with each other; one being the continuous dispersing phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets. The two phases are generally stabilized kinetically by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.

We distinguish between so-called “direct” oil-in-water type emulsions consisting of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and a discontinuous oily dispersed phase from emulsions of the so-called inverse water-in-oil type consisting of a continuous oily dispersing phase. and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase. There are also multiple emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil emulsions.

Detailed description of the invention UV filters

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV filter and at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter.

Lipophilic organic UV filters

By “lipophilic organic filter” we mean any organic cosmetic or dermatological compound filtering UV radiation capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state in a liquid fatty phase or of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.

Lipophilic organic filters are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in applications US5,237,071, US 5,166,355, GB2303549, DE 197 26 184 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EP1133980 and EP133981 and their mixtures.

Preferably, the lipophilic organic filter(s) are chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and their mixtures.

As examples of lipophilic organic photoprotective agents, we can cite those designated below by their INCI name and/or their chemical name.

Cinnamic compounds:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® MCX by the company DSM Nutritional Products;
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by the company Symrise,

Dibenzoylmethane compounds:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL® 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

Salicylic compounds:
Homosalate sold under the name “Parsol® HMS” by the company DSM Nutritional Products,
Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® OS” by the company Symrise,

β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds:
Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® N 539 T” by the company BASF,

Benzophenone compounds:
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name “UVINUL® M 40” by the company BASF,
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate sold under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus” or mixed with ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name “UVINUL® A Plus B” by the company BASF,

Benzylidene camphor compounds:
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name “EUSOLEX® 6300” by the company MERCK,

Phenyl benzotriazole compounds:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® XL” by the company NOVEAL,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form such as the product sold under the trade name “MIXXIM BB/100 ®” by the company FAIRMOUNT CHEMICAL,

Triazine compounds:
- 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylene)bis(5,6-diphenyl-1,2,4-triazine), INCI name Phenylene Bis-Diphenyl triazine,
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® S” by the company BASF,
- Ethylhexyl Triazone sold in particular under the trade name “UVINUL® T 150” by the company BASF,
- Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name “UVASORB® HEB” by the company 3V SIGMA,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups described in patent US6,225,467, application WO2004/085412 (see compounds 6 and 9) or the document “Symetrical Triazine Derivatives” IP.COM IPCOM000031257 Journal, INC WEST HENRIETTA, NY, US (September 20, 2004),

Anthranilic compounds:
Menthyl anthranilate sold under the commercial name “NEO HELIOPAN® MA” by the company Symrise,

Benzalmalonate compounds:
Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name “PARSOL SLX ®” by the company HOFFMANN LA ROCHE.

Hydrophilic organic UV filters

By hydrophilic organic UV filter is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter.

By “water-soluble organic filter” is meant any organic filter capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in a liquid aqueous phase, or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid aqueous phase.

By “water-dispersible organic filter” is meant any organic filter capable of forming in a liquid aqueous phase a homogeneous suspension of particles with an average volume size of less than 100 microns. The volume average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters which can be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and its various salts, described in particular in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347. We can in particular cite benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that which is manufactured under the name “MEXORYL® SX” by the company NOVEAL,

These filters correspond to the following general formula (I):
[Chem 1]

in which, F designates a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or even an NH(R ₁ ) ₃ ⁺ radical in which the R ₁ radicals, which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl, or alternatively a Mn+ group, Mn+ designating a versatile metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn+ preferably designating a metal cation chosen from Ca ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ba ²⁺ , Al ³⁺ and Zr ⁴⁺ . It is of course understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the "cis-trans" isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all isomers fall within the framework. of the present invention.

Among the water-soluble organic UVA filters which can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups with sulfonic groups such as those described in patent application EP-A-0669323.

They are described and prepared according to the syntheses indicated in US patent 2,463,264 as well as in patent application EP-A-0669323.

The compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups in accordance with the invention correspond to the following general formula (II):
[Chem 2]
(II)
in which,
- Z represents an organic residue of valence (l + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the double bond system of at least two benzoazolyl groups as defined inside the brackets for form a totally conjugated whole;
- X' designates S, O or NR ⁶ ;
- R ¹ denotes a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₁₈ alkyl, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkoxy, a C ₅ to C ₁₅ aryl, a C ₂ to C ₁₈ acyloxy, an SO ₃ group Y or COOY;
- the radicals R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ , identical or different, designate a nitro group or a radical R ¹ ;
- R ⁶ denotes a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or a C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl;
- Y designates a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH ₄ , 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group by an organic nitrogen base;
- m is 0 or 1;
- n is a number from 2 to 6;
- l is a number from 1 to 4;
- provided that l + n does not exceed the value 6.

Among these compounds, 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylèn-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetra-sulfonate) or one of its salts will be particularly preferred. following structure sold in particular under the name “NEO HELIOPAN® AP” by the company Symrise:
[Chem 3]

Preferably, the water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA is benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that which is manufactured under the name " MEXORYL SX" by NOVEAL.

The water-soluble organic UVB filters which can be used according to the present invention are chosen in particular from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidene camphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic compounds (PABA); water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of water-soluble organic UVB filters, we can cite phenyl benzimidazole compounds, such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) sold in particular under the trade name “EUSOLEX 232 ^® » by MERCK.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble filter capable of absorbing UVA and UVB.

When the water-soluble UV filter is of the sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.

By “alkanolamine” is meant a C ₂ -C ₁₀ compound comprising at least one amine function, primary, secondary or tertiary, and at least one alcohol function, generally primary. As a suitable alkanolamine, mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: TROMETHAMINE) and triethanolamine.

Among the water-dispersible organic filters, the following filters can be cited.

Benzophenone compounds:
1,1'-(1,4-piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]-methanone (CAS 919803-06-8) as described in application WO2007/ 071584; this compound being advantageously used in micronized form (volume average size of 0.02 to 2 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119 and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion,

Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds:
Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6 such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name “TINOSORB® M” by the company BASF, or
in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ ) alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5 such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392, in particular the product marketed under the name Tinosorb WPGL by the company BASF,

Triazine compounds:
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, under the trade name TINOSORB® S LiteAqua by the company BASF,
- symmetrical triazine filters substituted by naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm) which can be obtained for example according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303,549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi-phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine marketed under the name TINOSORB® A2B by the company BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985,

Benzoxazole compounds:
2-[4-(1,3-benzoxazol-2-yl)phenyl]-1,3-benzoxazole, cas number 904-39-2.

The total quantity of hydrophilic organic UV filters in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of hydrophilic organic UV filters is between 5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of water-dispersible organic UV filters is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is free of water-dispersible organic UV filters.

By “free from water-dispersible organic UV filters” is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a quantity of water-dispersible organic UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0, 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV filters and the lipophilic organic UV filters (mass quantity of hydrophilic organic UV filters divided by mass quantity of lipophilic organic UV filters) is greater than 0, 3.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV filters and the lipophilic organic UV filters is between 0.35 and 1.

Inorganic UV filters

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one inorganic UV filter.

The inorganic UV filters which can be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferably, the inorganic UV filters of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferably between 0.005 and 0.5 µm. between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in Annex VI updated on 09/22/2021 of the European cosmetic products regulation number 1223/2009, but are not limited to this list.

They may in particular be chosen from oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or mixtures thereof.

Such metal oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. As commercial pigments, mention may be made of the products sold by the companies CRODA, TAYCA, and MERCK.

Metal oxide pigments can be coated or uncoated.

Coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin) , alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

The coated pigments are more particularly coated titanium oxides:
- hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP” from the company TAYCA,
- silica and iron oxide such as the product “SUNVEIL F®” from the company IKEDA,
- silica and alumina such as the products “MT-500SA®” and “MT-100SA®” from the company TAYCA, “TIOVEIL™ AQ-N” from the company CRODA,
- alumina such as the “TTO-55 (A)®” products from the company ISHIHARA,
- alumina and aluminum stearate such as the products “MT-100TV®, MT-100Z®, MT-01®” from the company TAYCA, the product “Solaveil™ CT100” from the company CRODA and the product “ Eusolex T-AVO®" from the MERCK company,
- silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product “MT-100AQ®” from the company TAYCA,
- alumina and aluminum laurate,
- iron oxide and iron stearate,
- zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
- silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products “MTY-500SAS®” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®” from the company TAYCA,
- silica, alumina, aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,
- silica and treated with a silicone,
- alumina and treated with a silicone such as the "TTO-55(S)®" products from the company ISHIHARA,
- triethanolamine,
- stearic acid such as the product “TTO-55 (C)®” from the company ISHIHARA,
- sodium hexametaphosphate,
- TiO2 treated with octyl trimethyl silane,
- TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane,
- anatase/rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogensiloxane,
- TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, aluminum stearate, alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with aluminum stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from CRODA,
- TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine,
- TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoroalcohol phosphate and aluminum hydroxide.

We can also cite TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, manganese and more particularly manganese. Preferably said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may additionally comprise one or more dispersing agents such as for example a sorbitan ester such as sorbitan isostearate, an ester of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol such as TRI-PPG3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3 POLYRICINOLEATE. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersing agent chosen from fatty acid esters and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric/caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE and POLYGLYCERYL-3-POLYRICINOLEATE and SORBITAN ISOSTERATE INCI name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) TRI-PPG-3 MYRISTYLETHER CITRATE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 RICINOLEATE (and) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE or the product sold under the trade name “OPTISOL™ OTP-1” by the company CRODA.

Uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company TAYCA under the trade names “MT-500B” or “MT-600B®”, by the company Evonik under the name “DEGUSSA P 25”.

Uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
- those marketed under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF;
- those marketed under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies.

Coated zinc oxide pigments are for example:
- ZnO coated with polymethylhydrogensiloxane;
- CRODA’s “Solaveil™ CZ-100” dispersed in C12-15 alkyl benzonate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid);
- those marketed under the name and “DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA®” by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-12 alkane with a dispersing agent);
- those marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane).

Uncoated cerium oxide pigments can for example be those sold under the name RHODIGARD® W185 by the company Solvay.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide, including the equal weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, as well as the mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide. zinc coated with alumina, silica and silicone or coated with alumina, silica and glycerin.

When the composition according to the invention comprises inorganic UV filters, titanium oxide pigments, coated or uncoated, are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the composition is free of inorganic filters.

By “free from inorganic UV filters” is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a quantity of inorganic UV filters of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferably less than 0.5%. in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the total quantity of UV filters present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the total quantity of UV filters present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 18% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

By “total quantity of UV filters” is meant for the purposes of the present invention the sum of the concentrations of each of the UV filters present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV filters, hydrophilic organic UV filters, and inorganic UV filters.

Hydrophilic AMPS copolymers

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “copolymer” means a polymer comprising at least two distinct monomer units.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrophilic polymer” means a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. By “water-soluble or water-dispersible”, we mean polymers which, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a 1 cm thick sample, of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one copolymer, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, comprising at least the acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in free form or in partially or partially form. completely neutralized by a mineral base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di-, or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methyl-glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, as well as the mixture of these compounds.

They are preferably neutralized completely or practically completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized by at least 90%.

The AMPS® copolymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

By cross-linked polymer is meant a non-linear polymer present in the state of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water but swellable in water and leading to the production of a chemical gel.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol-diallyl ether, polyglycol-diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol-divinyl ether, hydroquinone-diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol, diallyl urea, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallyl amine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxy-ethane, trimethylolpropane-diallyl ether , allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl- or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and /or vinylphosphonic, or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% in moles, and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% in moles relative to the polymer.

According to the invention, the monomers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) preferably correspond to the following general formula:
[Chem 4]

in which X+ designates a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations; R1 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical such as methyl, preferably R ₁ designates a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are partially or completely salified in the form of ammonium salt.

Preferably, the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention are completely salified, preferably in the form of ammonium salt.

The AMPS® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter may or may not contain fatty chains.

According to a first particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not contain a fatty chain and are preferably present in small quantities.

According to a second particular embodiment, in the copolymer(s) obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above, the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprise at least one fatty chain.

By “fatty chain”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers or hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

Water-soluble co-monomers can be ionic or non-ionic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble co-monomers are non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble co-monomers, we can cite for example the following compounds and their salts:
- styrene sulfonic acid,
- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,
- vinyl phosphonic acid,
- maleic acid,
- itaconic acid,
- crotonic acid,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula:
[Chem 5]

in which :
- R ₁ is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₁ is chosen from:
- alkyl oxides of the -OR ₂ type where R ₂ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonate group (-SO ₃ ^- ) and /or sulfate (-SO ₄ ^- ) and/or phosphate (-PO ₄ ^2- ).

Among the non-ionic water-soluble co-monomers, we can cite in particular:
- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,
- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,
- maleic anhydride,
- vinylamine,
- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
- vinyl alcohol of formula CH ₂ =CHOH,
- water-soluble vinyl monomers of the following formula:
[Chem 6]

in which :
- R ₃ is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
_{- ​ ​} bromine, chlorine, fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.

Examples include glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

Among the hydrophobic co-monomers without a fatty chain, we can cite for example:
- styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
- vinyl acetate of formula CH ₂ =CH-OCOCH ₃ ;
- vinyl ethers of formula CH ₂ =CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- acrylonitrile;
- caprolactone;
- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;
- silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;
- hydrophobic vinyl monomers of the following formula:
[Chem 7]

in which :
- R ₄ is chosen from H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;
- X ₃ is chosen from:
- alkyl oxides of the -OR ₅ type where R ₅ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 100,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 100,000,000 g/mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g/mole to 70,000,000 g/mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, the following may be cited for example:
- copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized by soda or potash ;
- copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or like the product marketed under the name Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Copolymer Sodium Sulfonate/Hydroxyethylacrylate like the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from the company Seppic (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/ Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

As preferred water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate.

Among the water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may also be made of copolymers comprising at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one monomer with ethylenic unsaturation not comprising a hydrophobic group.

Preferably, when the water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymer of AMPS comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one monomer with ethylenic unsaturation not comprising no hydrophobic group, the hydrophobic group is a fatty hydrocarbon chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, branched or not, saturated or unsaturated.

The copolymer(s) can be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS copolymer(s) are crosslinked.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent, and even more preferably they are crosslinked by trimethylol propane triacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) may also comprise at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrocarbon fatty chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from acrylates or acrylamides of the following formula:
[Chem 8]

in which R ₁ denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical, preferably methyl; Y denotes O or NH; R ₂ designates a hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y designates an oxygen atom.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the group R1 represents a methyl.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to an even more preferred embodiment of the invention, in formula 8, Y designates an oxygen atom, the group R1 represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic monomer of formula 8 is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate (4OE), corresponding to the compound of formula 8 in which the group Y designates O, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.

Preferably, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ representing a methyl , the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In this embodiment, the monomer with a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment, the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with preferably Y designating an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ representing a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and at least one monomer of formula 8 in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R ₁ represents a methyl, the group R ₂ represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, preferably x is equal to 4.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers with a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

The AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group preferably corresponding to the following general formula:
[Chem 9]

in which R ₁ designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₁ designates a hydrogen atom, R ₂ designates a linear or branched C ₁ -C alkyl radical ₄ and R ₃ designates a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical, preferably R ₂ and R ₃ designate a methyl.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and their esters ((meth)acrylates) such as (2-hydroxyethyl acrylate). ), vinyl pyrrolidone, N-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamides, N,N-di(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylacrylamide such as N,N-dimethyl acrylamide.

Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated monomer not comprising a hydrophobic group is N,N-dimethyl acrylamide.

Preferably, the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from the copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, of preferably crosslinked, such as for example the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax zen by the company Seppic, and under the INCI name Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one copolymer of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or as the product marketed under the name Acrylamido-2-Methyl propane Copolymer Sodium Sulfonate/Hydroxyethylacrylate as the product commercial Sepinov EMT 10 from the company Seppic (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

The AMPS® copolymer(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5 to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Charges

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and powders of N-acylated amino acid.

By filler, we must understand particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers used in the present invention can be characterized by their specific surface area per unit of mass or per unit of volume, their size expressed in volume average diameter D(4.3), their unpacked density, and/or their capacity to oil absorption.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER – EMMET – TELLER) described in “The journal of the American Chemical Society”, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

The specific surface area per unit of volume is given by the relationship: S _V = S _M x ρ where ρ is the packed density expressed in g/cm ³ and S _M is the specific surface area per unit of mass expressed in m ² /g, as defined above.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called packed density:

Pour 40 g of powder into a graduated cylinder; then we place the test tube on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the specimen is then subjected to a series of 2500 compactions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); then we measure the final volume Vf of packed powder directly on the test tube. The packed density is determined by the ratio m/Vf, in this case 40/Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g).

The oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and noted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining powder oil intake described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below.

A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix using a spatula and continue adding oil until conglomerates of oil and powder are formed. From this moment, we add the oil one drop at a time and then triturate the mixture with the spatula. We stop adding oil when we obtain a firm and smooth dough. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. We then note the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used.

The oil intake corresponds to the Vs/m ratio.

The sizes of the fillers can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as MasterSizer 2000 from Malvern. The data is processed based on Mie diffusion theory. This theory, exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have an oil absorption capacity of 0.25 g/g to 3.5 g/g, preferably from 0.93 g/g to 2 .5g/g, or even from 1.25 g/g to 2.5 g/g.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers which can be used in the present invention have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.1 µm to 40 µm, preferably from 0.5 µm to 20 µm, and even more preferably from 1 µm to 16 µm.

According to a particular embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have an unpacked density ranging from 0.2 g/cm ³ to 2.2 g/cm ³ .

According to a particular embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 to 1000 m ² /g, and more particularly from 150 to 800 m ² /g.

In the present application, the term “spherical particles” means particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100 ° C. ).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical particles of porous silica are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 µm, more particularly from 1 to 20 µm, and preferably from 1 to 16 µm.

As an example of porous silica microbeads, the following commercial products can be used: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or even SB 700, preferably SB 300 from the company MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, notably the Sunsphere H-51 or the Sunsphère 12L, Sunsphère H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from the Sunjin company; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly the Satinier M13 and M16, the MSS-500 silicas from the KOBO company, and more particularly the MSS-500-20N, as well as the Silica Shells from the KOBO company.

According to a particular embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles which can be used in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed as volume average diameter D(4.3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 µm, preferably from 1 to 20 µm, and more particularly from 4 to 15 µm.

As examples of spherical cellulose microparticles, mention may in particular be made of solid cellulose beads sold under the names CELLULOBEADS D-10, CELLULOBEADS D-5 and CELLULOBEADS USF by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.

N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine.

According to a particular embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid(s) comprise an acyl group having 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is the lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid powder can be a lauroyl lysine powder such as that which is marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by the company AJINOMOTO or that which is marketed under the name CORUM 5105 S by the company CORUM.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and powders of N-acylated amino acid have a heterogeneous particle size, that is to say a large size distribution for a size expressed in average diameter in given volume.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least three fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and powders of N-acylated amino acid.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least three fillers distinct from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second is chosen from spherical cellulose particles, and the third is chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders.

According to a preferred embodiment, the total quantity of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and powders of N-acylated amino acid is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to another preferred embodiment, the mass ratio (spherical particles of cellulose + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical particles of porous silica) is between 0.25 and 1.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional filler different from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and powders of N-acylated amino acid.

Oily phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.

The fatty phase can consist of all the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, it includes in particular the wax(es) defined above and can include at least one oil. The fatty phase further comprises the lipophilic filter(s), as well as the fatty alcohol(s) present in the composition according to the invention.

By oil we mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 – 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil(s) of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{- 3} to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).

By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .

The term “hydrocarbon oil” within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean any oil comprising predominantly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen. Thus these oils may in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, the following may be cited in particular:
(i) hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters which are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₂₄ , the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil. sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, cancholy, passionflower, muscat rose; or even the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
(ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as paroleam, squalane, and their mixtures;
(iv) synthetic esters such as oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R + R' is ≥ 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (ketostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoate of C12-C15 alcohols such as the product sold under the trade name “Finsolv TN®” or “Witconol TN®” by the company WITCO or “TEGOSOFT TN ®” by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate as the commercial product sold under the name “X -TEND 226®” by the company ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate , isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate such as the product sold under the name “Dub Dis” by the company Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as linear C12-C13 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by the Company ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALE as well as linear C14-C15 di-alkyl tartrates such as those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;
(v) fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;
(vi) higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;
(vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate such as the product sold under the name “Cetiol CC®” by the company Cognis;
and their mixtures.

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, we will more particularly prefer glyceride triesters and in particular the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, the synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols including octyldodecanol. Preferably, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.

As volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins). ) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters , iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes different from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil. we can cite the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the Cognis Company. We can also cite n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97®, as well as their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by the company SHELL, can also be used. According to one embodiment, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, silicones phenyls such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

We can also cite volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils such as:
3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,
3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and
3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane.

Fluorinated volatile oils can also be used, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane and mixtures thereof.

The fatty phase according to the invention may also comprise, mixed with or solubilized in the oil, other fatty substances.

Another fatty substance which may be present in the oily phase may be, for example:
- a fatty acid chosen from fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms different from fatty chain amino acids as defined above, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;
- a gum chosen from silicone gums (dimethiconol),
- a pasty compound, such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of an oligomeric glycerol, arachidyl propionate, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives,
- and their mixtures.

The overall fatty phase, including all the lipophilic substances in the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, including the lipophilic filters, represents from 20% to 70% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 50% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase contains water, and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water.

An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may comprise, for example, water chosen from natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint Gervais Mont Blanc, or Vichy waters, or floral water.

The water-soluble or miscible solvents suitable for the invention include, in addition to short-chain alcohols as defined above, diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3 -butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular form of the invention, the overall aqueous phase, including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being solubilized in this same phase, represents 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active ingredients

The composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.

As examples of cosmetic active ingredients, we can cite moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular esters ) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; extracts of algae, fungi, plants, yeast and bacteria; enzymes; tightening agents; agents acting on microcirculation, and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. Preferably, it is polyglycerin-3.

It is easy for those skilled in the art to adjust the quantity of cosmetic active ingredient depending on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

Additional adjuvants or additives

The composition of the present invention may also include conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example perfumes, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preservatives (for example, chlorphenesin and phenoxy ethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as polysaccharides), pH regulators (e.g. triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (e.g. aluminum starch octenylsuccinate and polymethiylsesquioxane ) and their mixtures.

Those skilled in the art can select the quantity of adjuvants or additional additives so as not to harm the end use of the composition according to the present invention.

Dosage forms

According to a particular embodiment, the viscosity of the compositions in accordance with the invention, at 25°C and under atmospheric pressure, is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 300 mPa.s.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the viscosity is greater than or equal to 20 mPa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 100 mPa.s.

The viscosity can be measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM180 ® rheometer from Maple Instruments, at a rotation speed of 200 rpm with a mobile TV no. 2 after 10 minutes. The viscosity value is obtained in Pa.s.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They can be presented in particular in the form of an emulsion, simple or complex (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W) such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel. .

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It can in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (inverse emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In the case of compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, the emulsification processes that can be used are pale or propeller, rotor-stator and HHP type.

To obtain stable emulsions with a low polymer content (oil/polymer ratio >25), it is possible to make the dispersion in the concentrated phase then to dilute the dispersion with the rest of the aqueous phase.

It is also possible, by HHP (between 50 and 800 bars), to obtain stable dispersions with droplet sizes down to 100 nm.

The emulsions may generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or in a mixture. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).

As an example of nonionic W/O emulsifying surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol, glycerol or sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C®" by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl-dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name " Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the Dow Corning Company; Cetyl dimethicone copolyol such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) and hexyl laurate sold under the name ABIL WE O9 ® by the Goldschmidt company. One or more co-emulsifiers can also be added, which, advantageously, can be chosen from the group comprising alkylated polyol esters.

Mention may also be made of non-silicone emulsifying surfactants, in particular alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol, polyol or sugars.

As alkylated polyol esters, mention may in particular be made of polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel P135® by the company ICI.

As esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan, mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 987® by the company ICI; sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product marketed under the name Arlacel 986® by the company ICI, and their mixtures.

For O/W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, as nonionic emulsifying surfactants of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) such as the ester of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid of INCI name PEG-100 STEARATE marketed under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by the company CRODA; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) optionally in association with a fatty acid and glycerol ester such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold for example by the company ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside marketed for example by the company Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000® and Plantaren 1200®, cetostearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68® by the company Seppic, under the name Tegocare CG90® by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302® by the company Henkel, as well as arachidyl glucoside, for example under the name form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside marketed under the name Montanov 202® by the company Seppic. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol can be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in document WO- A-92/06778.

As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O/W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified by at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, preferably C ₈ -C ₂₄ , and their salts. , in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: acyl glutamic acid) or one of their salts (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or one of its salts, in particular sodium stearoyl glutamate (INCI name ).

Such compounds are marketed under the name AMISOFT by the company AJINOMOTO and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11, Amisoft CK-11, or even under the name EUMULGIN SG by the company COGNIS.

As anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O/W emulsions, we can also cite hydrophobic modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified by hydrophobic chains such as alkylcarbamate groups, in particular C8-C18 alkyl carbamate, and more particularly laurylcarbamate.

As an example of these compounds, we can in particular cite the product sold under the name INUTEC SL1 by the company CREACHEM.

When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase thereof may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known methods (Bangham, Standish and Watkins. J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).

The compositions according to the invention find their application in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for the protection and/or care of the skin, lips and/or hair, and/or for makeup of the skin and/or lips.

Another object of the present invention consists of the use of the compositions according to the invention as defined above for the manufacture of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular care products, sun protection products and makeup products.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting the scope of the invention. However, the examples make it possible to support specific characteristics, variants, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

In these examples, the quantities of ingredients present in the compositions are given in % by weight of raw materials relative to the total weight of the composition.

Sensory evaluation

The cosmetic properties are evaluated by 4 people trained in the description of care products and trained in the Playtime & Touch protocol. The sensory evaluation of skincare products by this panel is carried out as follows: the products are packaged in jars and tested on SkinFX synthetic skin. Within the same session, the samples are presented at the same time to each panelist. Experts place a drop of product (0.05 mL) on the back of the hand and spread the product for 15 seconds. After an additional 15 seconds, the spreading is resumed, again for 15 seconds.

The descriptors of slippery, sticky, oily (amount of film forming on the fingers) and shine are evaluated after 2 minutes 45 seconds, in total.

These descriptors are evaluated on a scale rated from 1 to 5: 1 = not, 2 = little, 3 = moderately, 4 = quite a bit, 5 = very, and the rating reflects a consensus of experts. For the Slippery and Shine descriptors, the bare skin rating is 3.

Stability study

The stability of the compositions is evaluated macroscopically (Appearance, Color, Odor, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 week at 55°C, and at 1 month at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.

Macroscopic stability is assessed by eye and microscopic stability is assessed using a white light optical microscope.

Filtering efficiency evaluation protocol

In-vitro: The sun protection factor (SPF) is determined according to the “in vitro” method described by B. L. Diffey in J. Soc. Cosmetic. Chem. 40, 127-133, (1989). The measurements were carried out using a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphère.

The in vitro UVA protection factor (PPD) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modeling according to the ISO 24443:2012 (Fr) protocol.

Each composition is applied to six rough PMMA plates, in the form of a homogeneous and regular deposit at a rate of 1 mg/cm2. The spreading of each composition is done using an automated robot which makes regular and uniform movements on three plates called HD6 (molded granular plates) and three plates called SB6 (sanded granular plates). The plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the six plates are spread out, we rest them in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes. We carry out the measurements using the UV-1000S spectrophotometer from the company Labsphère. We make 9 measurements per plate, then we analyze the measurements using an Excel spreadsheet which provides us with the SPF and PPD values of the measured composition.

Example 1 - Composition 1

The following composition is prepared.
[Table 1]
Phase Composition 1
(invention) A1 WATER / AQUA 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS by SYMRISE) 5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A MORE GRANULAR from BASF) 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 B2 DIMETHICON 3.4 B2 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.01 B2 SCENT 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 VS WATER / AQUA 14.12 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL from AJINOMOTO) 0.75 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4

Method of preparation of composition 1

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of the raw materials from phases A1 and A2 into a beaker and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of phase A3 raw materials. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials from phase B1 into a beaker and heating up to 75 °C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stopping the heating and adding, while stirring, the raw materials from phase B2 then from phase B3. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and maintain the temperature at 65°C.

At 65°C, phase A is poured slowly, with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades, into phase B.
Disperse until a consistent emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continuation of cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D and raw materials from phase E.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continuation of cooling under scraping blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase F.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The results of the sensory analysis are as follows.
[Table 2]
Composition 1
(invention) Sticky 1/5 (not sticky) Fat 1/5 (not fatty) Sliding 3/5 (like bare skin) Shine 3.5/5 (very slightly brighter than bare skin)

Composition 1 according to the invention has good cosmetic qualities, it is in particular non-sticky and non-greasy.
Furthermore, it provides good sun protection, with an SPF of 50 and a PPD of 17.

Examples 2 to 6 - Influence of the presence of polymers on stability

The following compositions are prepared.
[Table 3]
Phase Composition 2
(invention) 3
(invention) 4
(invention) A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 30 A1 PHENYL BENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 7 A1 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 1.02 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A1 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 0.3 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS by SYMRISE) 4.5 4.5 4.5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYL
METHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYL
OXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
5TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 3 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(TINOSRB T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 2.5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A MORE GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 2 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 10 10 B1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 0.1 B2 DIMETHICON 3.4 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 0.25 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 - - B3 POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6
(SEPIMAX ZEN from SEPPIC) - 0.25 - B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPIMAX C from SEPPIC) - - 0.25 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 VS WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 5 D SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 2 D LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL from AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 0.75 D CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KAEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 0.25 E METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 4

Phase Composition 5
(comparative) 6
(comparative) A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 A1 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS by SYMRISE) 4.5 4.5 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 10 B1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B2 DIMETHICON 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B3 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
(HOSTACERIN AMPS from CLARIANT) 0.5 - B3 CARBOMER
(CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL) - 0.4 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 VS WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 VS TRIETHANOLAMINE - 0.4 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 D SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 D LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL from AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 D CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 E METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4

Method of preparing compositions

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials from phase A1 and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of phase A2 raw materials. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials from phase B1 into a beaker and heating up to 75 °C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stopping the heating and adding, with stirring, the raw materials from phase B2 then from phase B3. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and maintain the temperature at 65°C.

At 65°C, phase A is poured slowly with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades into phase B.
Disperse until a consistent emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continuation of cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continuation of cooling under scraping blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase E.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows.
[Table 5]
Composition 2
(invention) 3
(invention) 4
(invention) Macroscopic physicochemical characterization Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Fluid, airy and shiny, off-white, fragrant Viscosity in mPa.s 270 391 278 pH 6.8 +/- 0.3 7.0 +/- 0.3 7.1 +/- 0.3 Centrifugation RAS RAS RAS Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Stable Microscopic stability after 1 month at 4°C, 25°C, and 45°C Stable Stable Stable

Composition 5
(comparative) 6
(comparative) Macroscopic physicochemical characterization Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Viscosity in mPa.s 374 295 pH 6.8 +/- 0.3 6.2 +/- 0.3 Centrifugation RAS Creaming Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with globules of different sizes and loose edges Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with globules of different sizes and loose edges

These results show that when the compositions comprise an AMPS copolymer, in particular SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC (see composition 2 according to the invention), SEPIMAX ZEN from SEPPIC (see composition 3 according to the invention) and SEPIMAX C of SEPPIC (see composition 4 according to the invention), these present better stability over time than when the compositions comprise an AMPS homopolymer such as Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant (see comparative composition 5) or an acrylic polymer such as CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER from LUBRIZOL (see comparative composition 6).

Examples 7 to 10 – Influence of the mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters

The following compositions are prepared.
[Table 7]
Phase Composition 7 8 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE
(NEO HELIOPAN OS by SYMRISE) - 5 B1 OCTOCRYLENE
(UVINUL N 539 T from BASF) - 1 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3.5 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 3 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 15 10 B2 DIMETHICON 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 1 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 VS WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL from AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 - Mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters 0.85 0.4

Phase Composition 9 10 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 3 8 A3 TEREPHTHALYLIDENE DICAMPHOR SULFONIC ACID
(MEXORYL SX from NOVEAL) - 4.55 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.46 1.39 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 OCTOCRYLENE
(UVINUL N 539 T from BASF) 7 - B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 2 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 4 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 3.6 2 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 10 10 B2 DIMETHICON 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 VS WATER / AQUA QSP 100 QSP 100 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.25 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL from AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.75 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 Mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters 0.15 1.4

Method of preparing compositions

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials from phases A1 and A2 and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of phase A3 raw materials. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials from phase B1 into a beaker and heating up to 75 °C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stopping the heating and adding, while stirring, the raw materials from phase B2 then from phase B3. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and maintain the temperature at 65°C.
At 65°C, phase A is poured slowly with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades into phase B.
Disperse until a consistent emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by introducing phase C with stirring.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continuation of cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D and raw materials from phase E.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continuation of cooling under scraping blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase F.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows.
[Table 9]
Composition 7 8 Viscosity in mPa.s 254 286 pH 7.0 +/- 0.3 6.7 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensory: sticky 1 / 5 1/ 5 SPF 55.6 60.6

Composition 9 10 Viscosity in mPa.s 270 304 pH 7.1 +/- 0.3 6.8 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensory: sticky 2.5/5 2.5/5 SPF 60.3 60.2

These results show that for equivalent stability and sun protection, compositions having a mass ratio between hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters of between 0.3 and 1 (see compositions 7 and 8) are not very sticky, which which is not the case when the compositions have a mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV filters and the lipophilic organic UV filters less than 0.3 (see composition 9) or greater than 1 (see composition 10).

Examples 11 to 15 – Influence of the presence of charges on sensoriality

The following compositions are prepared.
[Table 11]
Phase Composition 11 12 13 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 1.4 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE:
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 2.5 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 15 15 15 B2 DIMETHICON 3.4 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 1.2 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 VS WATER / AQUA 13.63 13.63 13.63 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 2 2.8 1 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 0.25 0.1 0.1 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL from AJINOMOTO) 0.75 0.1 1.9 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 4 Total quantity ( spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders + spherical porous silica particles) 3 3 3 Mass ratio ( spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) 0.5 0.07 2

Phase Composition 14 15 A1 WATER / AQUA 30 30 A1 PROPANEDIOL 3 3 A1 COMPLEXING AGENT(S) 0.3 0.3 A1 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE
(AMISOFT HS 11 from AJINOMOTO) 0.3 0.3 A2 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE
(INUTEC SL1 from CREACHEM) 0.3 0.3 A3 PHENYLBENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC ACID
(EUSOLEX 232 from MERCK) 7 7 A3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1.02 1.02 B1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE
(MONTANOV 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 BUTYL METHOXYDIBENZOYLMETHANE
(PARSOL 1789 from DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 3 3 B1 BIS-ETHYLHEXYLOXYPHENOL METHOXYPHENYL TRIAZINE
(TINOSORB S from BASF) 3 3 B1 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE
(UVINUL A PLUS GRANULAR from BASF) 2 2 B1 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE
(UVINUL T150 from BASF) 2.5 2.5 B1 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 15 15 B2 DIMETHICON 3.4 3.4 B2 SCENT 0.25 0.25 B2 TOCOPHEROL 0.1 0.1 B3 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER
(SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) 1.2 1.2 B3 XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 VS WATER / AQUA 13.63 13.63 D ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 E SILICA
(SUNSPHERE H51 from AGC Si-TECH) 1.9 1 E CELLULOSE
(CELLULOBEADS USF by DAITO KASEI KOGYO) 1 0.125 E LAUROYL LYSINE
(AMIHOPE LL from AJINOMOTO) 0.1 0.375 F METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL (and) POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
(TINOSORB WPGL from BASF) 4 4 Total quantity ( spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders + spherical porous silica particles) 3 1.5 Mass ratio ( spherical cellulose particles + N-acylated amino acid powders) / (spherical porous silica particles) 0.58 0.5

Method of preparing compositions

Phase A is prepared as follows:
Introduction of phase A1 and phase A2 raw materials and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Introduction of raw materials from phase A3. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained, maintaining the temperature at 65°C.

Phase B is prepared as follows:
Introduction of raw materials from phase B1 into a beaker and heating up to 75 °C with magnetic stirring. Disperse until a clear mixture is obtained.
Stopping the heating and adding, with stirring, the raw materials from phase B2 then from phase B3. Disperse until a homogeneous mixture is obtained and maintain the temperature at 65°C.

At 65°C, phase A is poured slowly with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades into phase B.
Disperse until a consistent emulsion is obtained.
Dilution by introducing phase C under stirring.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while starting cooling.
Continue cooling under scraping blades alone.
At temperature < 30°C, addition of phase D and raw materials from phase E.
Dispersion with rotor-stator stirring and scraping blades until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while continuing cooling.
Continuation of cooling under scraping blades alone if necessary.
Introduction of phase F.
Dispersion under scraping blades only until a homogeneous mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature.

Results obtained

The stability results are as follows.
[Table 13]
Composition 11 12 13 Viscosity in mPa.s 254 278 238 pH 7.0 +/- 0.3 6.7 +/- 0.3 6.7 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Stable Sensoriality Not greasy, not shiny Too greasy and too shiny Too greasy, too shiny

Composition 14 15 Viscosity in mPa.s 254 222 pH 6.7 +/- 0.3 6.8 +/- 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensory Not greasy, not shiny Not greasy, not shiny

These results show that for sensoriality in terms of tights, equivalent stability and sun protection, when the compositions include a total quantity of fillers of between 1% and 4% by weight with a mass ratio (spherical particles of cellulose + powders of N-acylated amino acid) / (spherical particles of porous silica) between 0.25 and 1 (see compositions 11, 14 and 15), these present optimal sensoriality with regard to the oily finish and shine .

Claims (18)

Composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
a) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter;
b) at least one hydrophilic organic UV filter; And
c) at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid monomer;
the quantity of fatty phase being between 20% and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition;
the quantity of hydrophilic organic filters being greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1 in which the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) are chosen from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; polymer filters and silicone filters; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2 in which the hydrophilic organic UV filter(s) are chosen from water-soluble organic UV filters and water-dispersible organic UV filters. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in which the water-soluble organic UV filter(s) are chosen from benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) ; benzene 1,4-di(3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid); and their salts. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in which the water-dispersible organic UV filter(s) are chosen from Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.01 to 5 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 2 μm, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 μm, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant of structure C _n H _2n+1 O(C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) _x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C ₆ H ₁₀ O ₅ ) and varies from 1.4 to 1.6; Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in the form of an aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having an average particle size which varies from 0.02 to 2 μm, and more preferably from 0.01 to 1.5 μm, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 μm, in the presence of at least one polyglycerol mono-(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl ester having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine in its water-dispersible form with the INCI name Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (and) Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer; symmetrical triazine filters substituted with naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form (average particle size of 0.02 to 3 µm), and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(bi- phenyl)-triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)-triazine. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in which the total quantity of UV filters is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 in which the mass ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV filters and the lipophilic organic UV filters is greater than 0.3, preferably between 0.35 and 1. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in which the AMPS copolymer(s) are chosen from copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents. Composition according to claim 8 in which the hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) are non-ionic. Composition according to any one of claims 8 and 9 in which the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer(s) comprise a fatty chain. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 comprising at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 in which the composition comprises at least one copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 in the form of an emulsion, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 comprising at least three fillers distinct from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second is chosen from particles spherical cellulose, and the third is chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders. Composition according to claim 14 in which the total quantity of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose, and powders of N-acylated amino acid is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 14 and 15 in which the mass ratio (spherical particles of cellulose + powders of N-acylated amino acid) / (spherical particles of porous silica) is between 0.25 and 1. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 16, the viscosity of the composition of which is less than or equal to 500 Pa.s. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care and/or makeup of a keratin material comprising the application to the surface of said keratin material of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 17.