EP4353121A1 - Procédé de réduction de gondolage de fibres de kératine - Google Patents

Procédé de réduction de gondolage de fibres de kératine Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4353121A1
EP4353121A1 EP22200645.4A EP22200645A EP4353121A1 EP 4353121 A1 EP4353121 A1 EP 4353121A1 EP 22200645 A EP22200645 A EP 22200645A EP 4353121 A1 EP4353121 A1 EP 4353121A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
keratin fibers
range
composition
weight
curl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22200645.4A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Steven Breakspear
Bernd Nöcker
Niu Jian
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kao Germany GmbH
Original Assignee
Kao Germany GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kao Germany GmbH filed Critical Kao Germany GmbH
Priority to EP22200645.4A priority Critical patent/EP4353121A1/fr
Publication of EP4353121A1 publication Critical patent/EP4353121A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/04—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair chemical
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/06—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair combined chemical and thermal

Definitions

  • the present application is directed to a method for curl reduction of keratin fibers.
  • the customer has the choice between permanently straight hair and permanently waved hair. There is no process available that durably reduces the curling of hair while not completely straightening it.
  • the object of the present invention is a method for reducing curls on keratin fibers, preferably on human keratin fibers, more preferably on human hair, comprising the steps of:
  • the inventor of the present invention has unexpectedly and surprisingly found out that the process according to the claims delivered a curl reduction even though keratin fibers were treated with a perming process.
  • the decisive factor was the selection of the curler size in relation to the curl size of the keratin fibers. Selecting a larger curler diameter with respect to the curl size delivered a curl reduction, which was durable, cosmetically appealing, and low damaging.
  • the present invention is directed to a method for reducing curls on keratin fibers, preferably on human keratin fibers, more preferably on human hair, comprising the steps of:
  • Fig. 1 illustrates the method to determine the mean curl diameter d curl of the portion of keratin fibers to be treated by the naked human eye.
  • the operator of this method may be the customer, a stylist, or another user skilled in curling methods.
  • the operator follows the following steps to select one or more curler(s) (1) with a larger diameter than the curl diameter d curl of the selected portion of the keratin fibers (2) to be treated:
  • measurements may be performed on the portion of keratin fibers to be treated. This aspect of the present invention is illustrated in Fig. 2 .
  • Fig. 2 illustrates two options to ensure that the one or more curler(s) (1) have a larger diameter than d curl of step i).
  • Options a) and b) include the following steps:
  • the ratio of the diameter of the one or more curler(s) (1) in step i) to the curl diameter d curl is 1.1 or higher, preferably 1.2 or higher, more preferably 1.5 or higher.
  • the curl diameter d curl of step i) is/are measured with a ruler (7) by holding the portion of keratin fibers (5, 6) in the operator's hand (8) without applying mechanical force onto it.
  • the first step of curl reduction is achieved by the selection of the appropriate diameter of the one or more curler(s) (1) which is close to the desired curl diameter upon completion of the entire process.
  • the chemical composition of step iii) is a permanent waving composition having a pH in the range of 3 to 12 and comprising one or more reducing agent(s).
  • the pH of the permanent waving composition may preferably be in the range of 4 to 11, more preferably in the range of 7.5 to 10.5.
  • the pH may be adjusted with the known organic and/or inorganic acids and alkalizing agents (such as detailed below).
  • the permanent waving composition of step iii) may be left on the hair for a period of 1 to 60 min, preferably 2 to 45 min, more preferably 5 to 30 min, further more preferably 5 to 20 min at ambient temperature and without using any heat and/or heating device.
  • the permanent waving composition comprises one or more reducing agent(s) selected from one or more sulfite salt(s) and/or hydrogen sulfite salt(s), thiogylcolic acid and/or its salts, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerol esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, cysteine or homocysteine and/or its salts, and their mixtures.
  • reducing agent(s) selected from one or more sulfite salt(s) and/or hydrogen sulfite salt(s), thiogylcolic acid and/or its salts, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerol esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, cysteine or homoc
  • the permanent waving composition of step iii) comprises one or more reducing agent(s) at a total concentration in the range of 0.1% to 30% by weight, still more preferably in the range of 0.25% to 25% by weight, still further more preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the permanent waving composition.
  • the permanent waving composition is an aqueous composition, i.e., it preferably has a water content of 50% by weight or more, preferably of 70% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the permanent waving composition.
  • step vi) requires the application of an oxidative composition, preferably comprising hydrogen peroxide or a bromate salt.
  • the oxidative composition is applied onto hair and left on the hair for 0.5 to 30 min, preferably 2 to 25 min, more preferably 3 to 20 min and further more preferably 5 to 15 min at ambient temperature without application of any heat and/or heating device.
  • the fibers are preferably rinsed off at the end of the above referred processing time.
  • the oxidizing composition may also be left on the hair, i.e., not rinsed off from hair.
  • the total concentration of one or more oxidizing agents in the oxidizing composition is in the range of 0.1 to 15%, preferably 0.2 to 12.5%, more preferably 0.25 to 10% and most preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • the pH of the oxidizing composition is in the range of 2 to 8.
  • the pH of the composition is depending on the oxidizing agent of the composition. In case of hydrogen peroxide a pH in the range of 2 to 6 is suitable. In case of sodium bromate a pH of 5 to 8 is suitable.
  • the pH of the composition may be adjusted using inorganic and/or organic acids and bases well known in the art.
  • the chemical composition for semi-permanently or permanently reshaping of keratin fibers of step iii) is a non-reducing, non-oxidative composition having a pH in the range of 7 to 12.
  • the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition of step iii) has a pH is in the range of 7.5 to 11, preferably in the range of 8.0 to 10.5, more preferably in the range of 8.25 to 10.
  • non-reducing denotes a composition comprising reducing agents at 1% by weight or less, preferably at 0.5% by weight or less, more preferably at 0.1% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or permanent waving composition, further more preferably the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition is free of reducing agents.
  • non-oxidizing denotes a composition comprises oxidizing agents at 1% by weight or less, preferably at 0.5% by weight or less, more preferably at 0.1% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition, further more preferably the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition is free of oxidizing agents.
  • the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition comprises one or more alkalizing agent(s), preferably ammonia and/or its salt(s), organic amine(s) and/or salt(s) of organic amines according to the following general structure: wherein R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 are independently selected from H, linear C 1 -C 6 alkyl which may be substituted with one hydroxyl group and/or sulfo group, or branched C 3 -C 12 alkyl or alkanol, wherein at least one of R 1 , R 2 , or R 3 is different from H, and/or their mixtures.
  • alkalizing agent(s) preferably ammonia and/or its salt(s), organic amine(s) and/or salt(s) of organic amines according to the following general structure: wherein R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 are independently selected from H, linear C 1 -C 6 alkyl which may be substituted with one hydroxyl group and/or
  • one or more alkalizing agent(s) of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition is/are ammonia and/or its salt(s), mono- and/or diethanolamine, butyl ethanolamine, butyl diethanolamine, dibutyl ethanolamine, methylethanolamine, triethanolamine, N-lauryl diethanolamine, diisopropanolamine, dimethyl isopropanolamine, isopropanolamine, triisopropanolamine, isobutanolamine, triethylamine, tris-(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane, taurine, and/or aminomethyl propanol, and/or their salt(s), and/or their mixture(s).
  • the most preferred alkalizing agents of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition is/are ammonia and/or its salt(s), monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, tris-(hydroxymethyl)-aminomethane, and/or aminomethyl propanol, and/or their salt(s), and/or their mixture(s).
  • the total concentration of alkalizing agents in the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition of step iii) is in the range of 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably in the range of 1% to 15% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition.
  • the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition comprises one or more thickening agent(s), preferably one or more thickening polymer(s), more preferably one or more anionic thickening polymer(s).
  • the preferred anionic thickening polymers from the viewpoint of cosmetic acceptance are carbohydrate-based thickening polymers and/or thickening polymer(s) comprising acrylate or methacrylate monomers, and/or their salt(s), and/or their mixtures.
  • Suitable anionic thickening polymers are copolymers and/or crosspolymers which comprise an acrylate and/or methacrylate monomer unit and optionally least one more hydrophobic unit such as alkyl chains.
  • Examples are acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/lauryl acrylate/stearyl acrylate/ ethylamine oxide methacrylate copolymer, Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carboxymethyl cellulose, alginic acids, sodium alginates, ammonium alginates, calcium alginates, gum arabic, guar gum or xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum or acrylic acid polymers known
  • the most preferred anionic thickening polymers are carbohydrate-based thickening polymers such as carboxymethyl cellulose, alginic acids, sodium alginates, ammonium alginates, calcium alginates, gum arabic, guar gum or xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, and/or their salt(s), and/or their mixtures.
  • the total concentration of thickening agent(s), preferably the total concentration of thickening polymer(s), more preferably the total concentration of anionic thickening polymer(s) is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably in the range of 0.25% to 12.5% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.5% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition.
  • the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition comprises one or more one or more lipophilic compound(s).
  • one or more lipophilic compound(s) is/are selected from C 12 -C 22 fatty alcohols, natural and/or vegetable oils, mineral oil, and fatty acid esters consisting of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with C 12 to C 22 being esterified with linear or branched primary alcohols with C 3 to C 12 , and/or silicones, and/or their mixtures.
  • the preferred lipophilic compound(s) is/are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, octyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, octyl stearate, oleyl oleate, myristyl myristate, and/or their mixtures, the most referred ones are isopropyl palmitate and/or isopropyl laurate, and/or their mixtures.
  • the total concentration of lipophilic compound(s) in the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition is in the range of 5% to 75% by weight, preferably 10% to 70% by weight, more preferably 15% to 60% by weight, further more preferably 20% to 50% by weight, still further more preferably 25% to 40% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition.
  • the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition may comprise one or more surfactant(s).
  • such surfactants are anionic, non-ionic, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic, and/or cationic surfactants, and/or their mixtures.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are selected from ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated alkyl ether sulfate surfactants, alkyl sulfates, ethoxylated and/or non-ethoxylated alkyl carboxylates, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated amino acid surfactants, and/or their mixtures.
  • Suitable alkyl sulfate or preferably ethoxylated alkyl ether sulfate surfactant or mixtures thereof have an alkyl chain length of C 10 to C 22 .
  • Suitable example anionic surfactants are laureth sulfates, coceth sulfate, pareth sulfate, capryleth sulphate, myreth sulfate, oleth sulfate, deceth sulfate, trideceth sulfate, coco sulphate, C 10 -C 16 alkyl sulphate, C 11 -C 15 alkyl sulphate, C 12 -C 18 alkyl sulphate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl sulphate, C 12 -C 16 alkyl sulphate, C 12 -C 13 alkyl sulfate, lauryl sulphate, myrystyl sulphate, palm kernel sulphate, cetearyl sulfate, cetyl sulphate, decyl sulphate, oleyl sulphate, behenyl sulphate and/or their salts. All of the
  • Cations for the surfactants may be selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium and/or ammonium.
  • Suitable non-ionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides, ethoxylated triglycerides, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, and/or their mixtures.
  • Preferred non-ionic surfactants are alkyl (poly)glycosides according to the general structure: R 23 O(R 24 O) t Z x
  • Z denotes a carbohydrate with C 5 to C 6
  • R 23 is an alkyl group with C 8 to C 18
  • R 24 is methyl, ethyl or propyl
  • t ranges from 0 to 10
  • x ranges from 1 to 5.
  • Suitable compounds according to this structure are C 9 -C 11 alkylpolyglycoside, the structures disclosed in EP-A 70 074 , and JP 2015-123019A .
  • the most preferred compounds according to the structure of above are decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and coco glucoside.
  • Suitable amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants are compounds according to the general structure(s) wherein R 15 is a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated, substituted or unsubstituted alkyl chain with a carbon number of C 10 to C 22 , preferably R 15 is a straight alkyl chain with a carbon number of C 10 to C 16 , A is a straight alkyl chain with a carbon number of C 1 to C 6 or a branched alkyl chain with a carbon number of C 3 to C 6 , preferably A is a linear alkyl chain with a carbon number of C 3 , and B is an amide or an ester group.
  • Suitable compounds are known as hydroxysultaine surfactants, such as cocoamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, laurylamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, erucamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, and cocoyl hydroxysultaine, and/or their salt(s).
  • amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactants are of betaine type.
  • Suitable compounds may be selected from alkyl betaines and/or alkylamido betaines.
  • a preferred compound selected from alkyl betaines is lauryl betaine.
  • a preferred compound selected from alkylamido betaines is cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • the disclosure also relates to the salts of the compounds.
  • amphoteric/zwitterionic surfactant(s) is/are selected from alkylamido betaines and/or alkylamidoalkyl betaine surfactants.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants are of quaternary ammonium structure according to the following general structure
  • R 32 and R 33 have an alkyl chain with C 1 to C 4 , and X - typically is chloride, bromide, or methosulfate.
  • Typical examples of those ingredients are cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimonium chloride, dipalmitoyl dimonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dioleoylethyl dimethyl ammonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, and/or their mixtures.
  • the total concentration of surfactants is 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, further more preferably 0.75% by weight or more, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition.
  • the total concentration surfactants is 10% by weight or less, further more preferably 7% by weight or less, still further more preferably 5% by weight or less, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition.
  • the total concentration of surfactants is in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably in the range of 0.75% to 5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the non-reducing, non-oxidative composition or the permanent waving composition.
  • the keratin fibers are heated in step v) to a temperature in the range of 70°C to 210°C, preferably to a temperature in the range of 80°C to 180°C, more preferably to a temperature in the range of 90°C to 150°C.
  • the keratin fibers in step v) are heated for a time period in the range of 1 min to 90 min, preferably for a time period in the range of 5 min to 60 min, more preferably for a time period in the range of 10 min to 45 min.
  • the pH of the above composition was adjusted to pH 8.5.
  • the curler selection was carried out as described above and the same type of curly hair was used.
  • a hair streak weighing approximately 5 g and having a length of 20 cm was treated using the above compositions. Firstly, the streak was washed with a commercially available shampoo composition and towel dried. Afterwards, the streak was dipped into the aqueous reducing composition and left in the solution for 15 min and taken out and rinsed off with water. Afterwards, the streak was put on curlers. After 10 min, the streak was taken out and rinsed off and dipped into the oxidizing composition for 15 min and the curlers were taken off. It was observed that the streak had less curls in comparison to its state prior to the curl reduction treatment.

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  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP22200645.4A 2022-10-10 2022-10-10 Procédé de réduction de gondolage de fibres de kératine Pending EP4353121A1 (fr)

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EP22200645.4A EP4353121A1 (fr) 2022-10-10 2022-10-10 Procédé de réduction de gondolage de fibres de kératine

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

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EP22200645.4A EP4353121A1 (fr) 2022-10-10 2022-10-10 Procédé de réduction de gondolage de fibres de kératine

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EP4353121A1 true EP4353121A1 (fr) 2024-04-17

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0070074A2 (fr) 1981-07-13 1983-01-19 THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY Compositions moussantes contenant des agents tensio-actifs
JP2015123019A (ja) 2013-12-26 2015-07-06 花王株式会社 アルキルポリグリコシドの製造方法
WO2016098870A1 (fr) 2014-12-18 2016-06-23 L'oreal Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0070074A2 (fr) 1981-07-13 1983-01-19 THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY Compositions moussantes contenant des agents tensio-actifs
JP2015123019A (ja) 2013-12-26 2015-07-06 花王株式会社 アルキルポリグリコシドの製造方法
WO2016098870A1 (fr) 2014-12-18 2016-06-23 L'oreal Procédé de traitement des fibres kératiniques

Non-Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
HAIRSTYLES BY EDEN: "BEAUTIFUL NATURAL HAIR / ROLLER SET!!", 18 March 2019 (2019-03-18), XP093035535, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbUcPURGBrc> [retrieved on 20230328] *
HAZEL GODDESSS: "PERM ROD SET on SHORT NATURAL HAIR | First Rod Set On My Big Chopped Hair", 12 July 2021 (2021-07-12), XP093035529, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB41kYPgdHA> [retrieved on 20230328] *
JOY ARTHUR: "Naturally Curly Hair to Soft Curls using Velcro Rollers", 1 September 2018 (2018-09-01), XP093035412, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYcaJXIUyqw> [retrieved on 20230328] *
PERKINS SABRINA - ET AL: "The Right Rollers for Every Style, Length and Hair Type | NaturallyCurly.com", -, 9 December 2014 (2014-12-09), -, pages 1 - 16, XP093035425, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/home/the-right-rollers-for-every-hairstyle-curl-pattern> *

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