EP4338638A1 - Method for manufacturing a component for covering a watch, a fashion item or a jewellery item - Google Patents

Method for manufacturing a component for covering a watch, a fashion item or a jewellery item Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4338638A1
EP4338638A1 EP22196167.5A EP22196167A EP4338638A1 EP 4338638 A1 EP4338638 A1 EP 4338638A1 EP 22196167 A EP22196167 A EP 22196167A EP 4338638 A1 EP4338638 A1 EP 4338638A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
substrate
internal
layer
face
external
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22196167.5A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Pierry Vuille
Jan LINTYMER
Benoit GIRY
Gabriel Rittiner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Comadur SA
Original Assignee
Comadur SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Comadur SA filed Critical Comadur SA
Priority to EP22196167.5A priority Critical patent/EP4338638A1/en
Priority to JP2023122184A priority patent/JP2024043486A/en
Priority to CN202311198009.3A priority patent/CN117719269A/en
Priority to US18/468,082 priority patent/US20240099433A1/en
Publication of EP4338638A1 publication Critical patent/EP4338638A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/007—Non-metallic coatings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B45/00—Time pieces of which the indicating means or cases provoke special effects, e.g. aesthetic effects
    • G04B45/0076—Decoration of the case and of parts thereof, e.g. as a method of manufacture thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B19/00—Indicating the time by visual means
    • G04B19/06—Dials
    • G04B19/12—Selection of materials for dials or graduations markings
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0069—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for working with non-mechanical means, e.g. chemical, electrochemical, metallising, vapourising; with electron beams, laser beams
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04D—APPARATUS OR TOOLS SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR MAKING OR MAINTAINING CLOCKS OR WATCHES
    • G04D3/00—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials
    • G04D3/0074—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment
    • G04D3/0092—Watchmakers' or watch-repairers' machines or tools for working materials for treatment of the material, e.g. surface treatment for components of the time-indicating mechanism, e.g. dials

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of watchmaking, fashion articles, jewelry or jewelry, and more particularly relates to a method of manufacturing a component for dressing a watch, a fashion article , jewelry or jewelry and a process for manufacturing such a covering component.
  • fashion article includes clothing articles or accessories, such as belts, shoes, clothing, etc., and also includes eyewear articles, telephone articles, or any other decorative object.
  • the exterior components for watches in particular dials, flange, bezels, etc., can present, for decorative purposes, decorations made from thin layers deposited on the surface of the watch. 'a substrate.
  • the latter can be relatively complex to produce.
  • the decoration is formed by a combination of structures on a substrate and a thin layer deposited on the substrate, the alignment tolerances of the thin layer with respect to the structures are particularly complicated to respect.
  • the present invention aims to improve the precision and quality of the decorations of a dressing component of a watch, a fashion item, jewelry or jewelry.
  • the invention solves the problem of respecting the tolerances for aligning the decorations on a covering component, in particular the alignment of a thin layer with respect to structures on a face of a substrate. on which said thin layer is deposited.
  • the invention may also include one or more of the following characteristics, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.
  • the internal face of the substrate is polished.
  • the method comprises, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer and the internal face of the substrate, a step of etching the internal layer in which part of the internal layer is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face of the substrate being impacted.
  • the localized ablation step of the internal layer is carried out by laser beam.
  • the method comprises a step of etching the substrate carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate, without impacting the internal face, nor an external face of said substrate opposite to the internal face.
  • the step of etching the external layer is carried out so that part of the external layer is eliminated in order to conform said external layer according to a predefined shape, without the external face of the substrate is not impacted.
  • the step of etching the external layer is advantageously carried out so that the internal layer is visible through the substrate.
  • a polishing step in which the external face of the substrate is polished is carried out before the steps of depositing the external and internal layers.
  • the present invention relates to a watch dial formed by implementing the method as previously described.
  • the present invention relates to a fashion article comprising a covering component formed by the implementation of the method as previously described.
  • the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a covering component 10 as shown in the figures 2 to 5 in different examples of implementation of said method.
  • the invention can advantageously constitute a component for dressing a watch, such as a dial, a component for dressing a fashion item, or an item of jewelry.
  • fashion articles define in this text any article or accessory of clothing, such as a belt, a shoe, a piece of clothing, etc., and also includes articles of eyewear, telephone articles, such as phone cases, or any decorative object.
  • the manufacturing process comprises a first step of depositing a thin layer, called "internal layer” 12, on all or part of the surface of an internal face 110 of a substrate 11 made of a transparent material, as shown on the figure 1 .
  • transparent designates in this text a capacity of a material to allow all or part of light radiation to pass through, in particular light visible to the naked eye.
  • a transparent material can be sapphire, glass, etc.
  • the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 is opposite an external face 111 from which a user is intended to see a decoration of the covering component 10, through said substrate 11. More particularly, the external face 111 is intended to be oriented towards an external environment and the internal face 110 is intended to be oriented towards an internal environment, for example facing a watch movement, in the case in which the covering component 10 is a component of a watch.
  • the internal layer 12 can be made of metallic material, in particular Cr, Au, Ti, Zr, or of dielectric material, alone or in alloy.
  • the internal face 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step, prior to the deposition of the internal layer 12.
  • the method subsequently comprises a step of localized ablation of the internal layer 12, so as to form one or more pockets 14 opening onto the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, and at the same time, to structure said internal face 110 at level of the or each of the pockets 14 in order to achieve a structuring 112, as represented by the figure 2 .
  • the method can include several localized ablation steps, so as to produce several structurings 112.
  • the ablation steps can be carried out with different parameters so as to produce structurings 112 with different appearances.
  • the notion of “structuring” here defines a surface whose state, that is to say the topography, has been modified and this can consist of satin finishing, texturing, engraving, etc.
  • the parameters used for implementing the ablation step(s) are determined according to the desired appearance of the structure(s) 112, their determination being within the reach of those skilled in the art.
  • the part of the internal layer 12 not impacted by the ablation rests against a first portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 and the pockets 14 open onto a second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, said second portion of the internal face 110 being structured.
  • structuring 112 coincides perfectly with the pocket 14 with which it is generated. Compliance with the alignment tolerances of the internal layer 12 with the structuring 112 of the internal face 110 is therefore guaranteed.
  • the local ablation of the internal layer 12, and consequently, the structuring 112 of the second portion of the internal face 110, is preferably carried out by laser beam.
  • the local ablation step can be carried out by mechanical machining, such as by robotic engraving with a diamond tip, by chemical machining, etc.
  • Such treatment may consist of the deposition of a layer of anti-reflective coating or of a coating consisting of a layer of metallic, organic, ceramic, semiconductor material, oxide, carbide, nitride, lacquer or E-mail.
  • the method according to the invention may comprise, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer 12 and the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, a step of etching the internal layer 12 in which a part of the internal layer 12 is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 being impacted, as represented by the Figure 3 .
  • Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.
  • the method may include a step of etching the substrate 11 carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate 11, without impacting the internal face 110, nor an external face 111 of said substrate 11 opposite the internal face 110.
  • This characteristic makes it possible to enrich the decoration generated by the implementation of the method according to the invention.
  • the method according to the invention may comprise a step of depositing a thin layer, called "external layer” 13, on all or part of the surface of an external face 110 of the substrate 11, followed by a step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13, as shown in the figure 4 .
  • the ablation is carried out so that part of the outer layer 13 is retained on a first portion of the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, and so as to form at least one pocket 15 opening onto a second portion of the outer face 110 of the substrate 11 and to structure, at the same time, said second portion of the external face 110.
  • the second portion of the external face 111 extends at least opposite the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11.
  • the internal layer 12 and the structuring 112 are visible through the pocket 15.
  • the method may comprise a step of etching the outer layer 13, in a manner analogous to the step of etching the inner layer 12.
  • a step engraving is shown on the figure 5 , in combination with the step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13.
  • the step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that part of the outer layer 13 is eliminated in order to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the external face 111 of the substrate 11 being impacted.
  • Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.
  • the result of the step of etching the outer layer 13 is shown on the figure 5 , on which is also visible the internal layer 12 shaped in a predefined form at the end of the step of etching the internal layer 12, as described above in the text.
  • the internal 12 and external 13 layers can both be eliminated locally so as to generate specific decorations.
  • the step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that the internal layer 12 is visible through the substrate 11.
  • the step of etching the external layer 13 is carried out so that a projection of the internal layer 12 on the external surface 111 of the substrate 11 extends beyond the outer layer 13, as shown in figure 5 .
  • the outer layer 13 and the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, in particular the second portion of said outer face 111, can subsequently be subjected to a surface treatment, for example as described previously for the inner layer 12 and the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11.
  • the external face 111 of the substrate can be polished during a polishing step carried out before the step of depositing the external layer 13 and before the step of depositing the internal layer 12, in order to avoid damaging said layers.
  • the visual appearance of the decoration of the covering component 10 can be particularly rich and attractive to the extent that the contrast between the possible difference in colors of the internal layer 12 and the external layer 13, is added the contrast between the different surface states of the portions of the internal face 110 and the external face 111 of the substrate 11, on which said layers are respectively deposited. Furthermore, the method according to the invention makes it possible to generate a visual effect of depth between the internal 12 and external 13 layers.
  • the internal layer 12 and/or the external layer 13 can be constituted by a stack of thin layers, in a manner known per se to those skilled in the art.

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de fabrication d'un composant d'habillage (10) d'une montre, d'un article de mode ou d'un article de bijouterie ou de joaillerie, comprenant les étapes suivantes :- dépôt d'une couche interne (12) sur tout ou partie de la surface d'une face interne (110) d'un substrat (11) réalisé dans un matériau transparent,- ablation localisée de la couche interne (12), de sorte à conserver une partie de ladite couche interne (12) sur une première portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11), ladite ablation étant réalisée de sorte à former au moins une poche (14) débouchant sur une seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11) et de sorte à structurer ladite seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11),- traitement de surface de la couche interne (12) et de la seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11).The invention relates to a method of manufacturing a covering component (10) of a watch, a fashion item or an item of jewelry, comprising the following steps: - depositing a internal layer (12) on all or part of the surface of an internal face (110) of a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, - localized ablation of the internal layer (12), so as to retain a part of said internal layer (12) on a first portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), said ablation being carried out so as to form at least one pocket (14) opening onto a second portion of the internal face (110). ) of the substrate (11) and so as to structure said second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), - surface treatment of the internal layer (12) and of the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11).

Description

Domaine technique de l'inventionTechnical field of the invention

L'invention relève du domaine de l'horlogerie, des articles de modes, de la bijouterie ou de la joaillerie, et concerne plus particulièrement un procédé de fabrication d'un composant d'habillage d'une montre, d'un article de mode, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie et un procédé de fabrication d'un tel composant d'habillage.The invention relates to the field of watchmaking, fashion articles, jewelry or jewelry, and more particularly relates to a method of manufacturing a component for dressing a watch, a fashion article , jewelry or jewelry and a process for manufacturing such a covering component.

Dans le présent texte, la notion « d'article de mode » comprend les articles ou accessoires d'habillement, tels que les ceintures, chaussures, vêtements, etc., et comprend en outre les articles de lunetterie, les articles de téléphonie, ou tout autre objet décoratif.In this text, the notion of “fashion article” includes clothing articles or accessories, such as belts, shoes, clothing, etc., and also includes eyewear articles, telephone articles, or any other decorative object.

Arrière-plan technologiqueTechnology background

Dans le domaine de l'horlogerie en particulier, les composants d'habillage pour montres, notamment les cadrans, rehauts, lunettes, etc., peuvent présenter, à des fins décoratives, des décors réalisés à partir de couches minces déposées à la surface d'un substrat.In the field of watchmaking in particular, the exterior components for watches, in particular dials, flange, bezels, etc., can present, for decorative purposes, decorations made from thin layers deposited on the surface of the watch. 'a substrate.

Suivant la dimension et le nombre de détails du décor du composant d'habillage, ce dernier peut être relativement complexe à réaliser. Notamment, lorsque le décor est formé par une combinaison de structurations sur un substrat et d'une couche mince déposée sur le substrat, les tolérances d'alignement de la couche mince vis-à-vis des structurations sont particulièrement compliquées à respecter.Depending on the size and number of details of the decoration of the covering component, the latter can be relatively complex to produce. In particular, when the decoration is formed by a combination of structures on a substrate and a thin layer deposited on the substrate, the alignment tolerances of the thin layer with respect to the structures are particularly complicated to respect.

De manière générale, on retrouve également les problématiques précitées dans les domaines des articles de mode, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie.Generally speaking, we also find the aforementioned problems in the areas of fashion articles, jewelry or jewelry.

Dans ce contexte, la présente invention vise à améliorer la précision et la qualité des décors d'un composant d'habillage d'une montre, d'un article de mode, de bijouterie ou de joaillerie.In this context, the present invention aims to improve the precision and quality of the decorations of a dressing component of a watch, a fashion item, jewelry or jewelry.

En particulier, l'invention résout le problème de respect des tolérances d'alignement des décors sur un composant d'habillage, notamment de l'alignement d'une couche mince vis-à-vis de structurations d'une face d'un substrat sur laquelle ladite couche mince est déposée.In particular, the invention solves the problem of respecting the tolerances for aligning the decorations on a covering component, in particular the alignment of a thin layer with respect to structures on a face of a substrate. on which said thin layer is deposited.

Résumé de l'inventionSummary of the invention

L'invention concerne, à cet effet, un procédé de fabrication d'un composant d'habillage d'une montre, d'un article de mode ou d'un article de bijouterie ou de joaillerie, comprenant les étapes suivantes :

  • dépôt d'une couche interne sur tout ou partie de la surface d'une face interne d'un substrat réalisé dans un matériau transparent,
  • ablation localisée de la couche interne, de sorte à conserver une partie de ladite couche interne sur une première portion de la face interne du substrat, ladite ablation étant réalisée de sorte à former au moins une poche débouchant sur une seconde portion de la face interne du substrat et de sorte à structurer ladite seconde portion de la face interne du substrat,
  • traitement de surface de la couche interne et de la face interne du substrat.
The invention relates, to this end, to a method of manufacturing a component for dressing a watch, a fashion item or an item of jewelry, comprising the following steps:
  • deposition of an internal layer on all or part of the surface of an internal face of a substrate made of a transparent material,
  • localized ablation of the internal layer, so as to preserve a part of said internal layer on a first portion of the internal face of the substrate, said ablation being carried out so as to form at least one pocket opening onto a second portion of the internal face of the substrate substrate and so as to structure said second portion of the internal face of the substrate,
  • surface treatment of the internal layer and the internal face of the substrate.

Dans des modes particuliers de réalisation, l'invention peut comporter en outre l'une ou plusieurs des caractéristiques suivantes, prises isolément ou selon toutes les combinaisons techniquement possibles.In particular embodiments, the invention may also include one or more of the following characteristics, taken individually or in all technically possible combinations.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, lors d'une étape de polissage réalisée avant l'étape de dépôt de la couche interne, la face interne du substrat est polie.In particular modes of implementation, during a polishing step carried out before the step of deposition of the internal layer, the internal face of the substrate is polished.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, le procédé comprend, avant la réalisation de l'étape de traitement de surface de la couche interne et de la face interne du substrat, une étape de gravure de la couche interne dans laquelle une partie de la couche interne est éliminée de sorte à conformer ladite couche selon une forme prédéfinie, sans que la face interne du substrat ne soit impactée.In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer and the internal face of the substrate, a step of etching the internal layer in which part of the internal layer is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face of the substrate being impacted.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, l'étape d'ablation localisée de la couche interne est réalisée par faisceau laser.In particular modes of implementation, the localized ablation step of the internal layer is carried out by laser beam.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, le procédé comprend une étape de gravure du substrat réalisée de sorte à générer un motif à l'intérieur de l'épaisseur dudit substrat, sans impacter la face interne, ni une face externe dudit substrat opposée à la face interne.In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises a step of etching the substrate carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate, without impacting the internal face, nor an external face of said substrate opposite to the internal face.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, le procédé comprend les étapes suivantes :

  • dépôt d'une couche externe sur tout ou partie de la surface d'une face externe du substrat,
  • ablation localisée et/ou gravure de la couche externe,
  • traitement de surface de la couche externe.
In particular modes of implementation, the method comprises the following steps:
  • depositing an external layer on all or part of the surface of an external face of the substrate,
  • localized ablation and/or etching of the outer layer,
  • surface treatment of the outer layer.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, l'étape d'ablation localisée de la couche externe est réalisée de sorte à :

  • conserver une partie de la couche externe sur une première portion de la face externe du substrat,
  • former au moins une poche débouchant sur une seconde portion de la face externe du substrat, ladite seconde portion s'étendant au moins en regard de la seconde portion de la face interne du substrat, et
  • structurer ladite seconde portion de la face externe dudit substrat.
In particular modes of implementation, the step of localized ablation of the external layer is carried out so as to:
  • retain part of the external layer on a first portion of the external face of the substrate,
  • form at least one pocket opening onto a second portion of the external face of the substrate, said second portion extending at least opposite the second portion of the internal face of the substrate, and
  • structure said second portion of the external face of said substrate.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, l'étape de gravure de la couche externe est réalisée de sorte qu'une partie de la couche externe est éliminée afin de conformer ladite couche externe selon une forme prédéfinie, sans que la face externe du substrat ne soit impactée.In particular modes of implementation, the step of etching the external layer is carried out so that part of the external layer is eliminated in order to conform said external layer according to a predefined shape, without the external face of the substrate is not impacted.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, l'étape de gravure de la couche externe est avantageusement réalisée de sorte que la couche interne soit visible à travers le substrat.In particular modes of implementation, the step of etching the external layer is advantageously carried out so that the internal layer is visible through the substrate.

Dans des modes particuliers de mise en œuvre, une étape de polissage dans laquelle la face externe du substrat est polie, est réalisée avant les étapes de dépôt des couches externe et interne.In particular modes of implementation, a polishing step in which the external face of the substrate is polished is carried out before the steps of depositing the external and internal layers.

Selon un autre aspect, la présente invention concerne un cadran de montre formé par la mise en œuvre du procédé tel que précédemment décrit.According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a watch dial formed by implementing the method as previously described.

Selon encore un autre aspect, la présente invention concerne un article de mode comportant un composant d'habillage formé par la mise en œuvre du procédé tel que précédemment décrit.According to yet another aspect, the present invention relates to a fashion article comprising a covering component formed by the implementation of the method as previously described.

Brève description des figuresBrief description of the figures

D'autres caractéristiques et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront à la lecture de la description détaillée suivante donnée à titre d'exemple nullement limitatif, en référence aux dessins annexés dans lesquels :

  • la figure 1 représente schématiquement en vue en coupe, un composant d'habillage en cours de réalisation par la mise en œuvre d'une étape d'un procédé de fabrication selon l'invention;
  • les figures 2 à 5 représentent schématiquement en vue en coupe, un composant d'habillage obtenu par la mise en œuvre du procédé de fabrication selon l'invention dans différents exemples de mise en œuvre.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear on reading the following detailed description given by way of non-limiting example, with reference to the appended drawings in which:
  • there figure 1 schematically represents in sectional view, a covering component being produced by the implementation of a step of a manufacturing process according to the invention;
  • THE figures 2 to 5 schematically represent in sectional view, a covering component obtained by the implementation of the manufacturing process according to the invention in different examples of implementation.

On note que les figures ne sont pas à l'échelle.Note that the figures are not to scale.

Description détaillée de l'inventionDetailed description of the invention

La présente invention concerne un procédé de fabrication d'un composant d'habillage 10 tel que représenté sur les figures 2 à 5 dans différents exemples de mise en œuvre dudit procédé.The present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a covering component 10 as shown in the figures 2 to 5 in different examples of implementation of said method.

L'invention peut avantageusement constituer un composant d'habillage d'une montre, tel qu'un cadran, un composant d'habillage d'un article de mode, ou d'un article de bijouterie ou de joaillerie.The invention can advantageously constitute a component for dressing a watch, such as a dial, a component for dressing a fashion item, or an item of jewelry.

Les termes « articles de mode » définissent dans le présent texte tout article ou accessoire d'habillement, tels qu'une ceinture, une chaussure, un vêtement, etc., et comprend en outre les articles de lunetterie, les articles de téléphonie, tels que les coques de téléphones, ou tout objet décoratif.The terms “fashion articles” define in this text any article or accessory of clothing, such as a belt, a shoe, a piece of clothing, etc., and also includes articles of eyewear, telephone articles, such such as phone cases, or any decorative object.

Le procédé de fabrication comprend une première étape de dépôt d'une couche mince, dite « couche interne » 12, sur tout ou partie de la surface d'une face interne 110 d'un substrat 11 réalisé dans un matériau transparent, tel que représenté sur la figure 1. Il y a lieu de noter que le terme « transparent » désigne dans le présent texte une capacité d'un matériau à laisser passer tout ou partie d'un rayonnement lumineux, notamment de la lumière visible à l'œil nu. Un tel matériau transparent peut être du saphir, du verre, etc.The manufacturing process comprises a first step of depositing a thin layer, called "internal layer" 12, on all or part of the surface of an internal face 110 of a substrate 11 made of a transparent material, as shown on the figure 1 . It should be noted that the term “transparent” designates in this text a capacity of a material to allow all or part of light radiation to pass through, in particular light visible to the naked eye. Such a transparent material can be sapphire, glass, etc.

La face interne 110 du substrat 11 est opposée à une face externe 111 depuis laquelle un utilisateur est destiné à voir un décor du composant d'habillage 10, à travers ledit substrat 11. Plus particulièrement, la face externe 111 est destinée à être orientée vers un environnement extérieur et la face interne 110 est destinée à être orientée vers un environnement intérieur, par exemple en regard d'un mouvement horloger, dans le cas dans lequel le composant d'habillage 10 est un composant d'une montre.The internal face 110 of the substrate 11 is opposite an external face 111 from which a user is intended to see a decoration of the covering component 10, through said substrate 11. More particularly, the external face 111 is intended to be oriented towards an external environment and the internal face 110 is intended to be oriented towards an internal environment, for example facing a watch movement, in the case in which the covering component 10 is a component of a watch.

Un tel dépôt peut être réalisé par méthode de dépôt physique par phase vapeur, de dépôt chimique par phase vapeur, ou par toute autre méthode appropriée. A titre d'exemple, la couche interne 12 peut être réalisée en matériau métallique, notamment en Cr, Au, Ti, Zr, ou en matériau diélectrique, seuls ou en alliage.Such deposition can be carried out by physical vapor deposition method, chemical vapor deposition method, or by any other appropriate method. For example, the internal layer 12 can be made of metallic material, in particular Cr, Au, Ti, Zr, or of dielectric material, alone or in alloy.

Préférentiellement, la face interne 110 est polie lors d'une étape préliminaire de polissage, préalablement au dépôt de la couche interne 12.Preferably, the internal face 110 is polished during a preliminary polishing step, prior to the deposition of the internal layer 12.

Le procédé comporte par la suite une étape d'ablation localisée de la couche interne 12, de sorte à former une ou des poches 14 débouchant sur la face interne 110 du substrat 11, et dans le même temps, à structurer ladite face interne 110 au niveau de la ou de chacune des poches 14 afin de réaliser une structuration 112, tel que représenté par la figure 2.The method subsequently comprises a step of localized ablation of the internal layer 12, so as to form one or more pockets 14 opening onto the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, and at the same time, to structure said internal face 110 at level of the or each of the pockets 14 in order to achieve a structuring 112, as represented by the figure 2 .

Naturellement, le procédé peut comporter plusieurs étapes d'ablation localisée, de sorte à réaliser plusieurs structurations 112. En particulier, les étapes d'ablation peuvent être réalisées avec des paramètres différents de sorte à réaliser des structurations 112 d'aspect différents. Toutefois, dans la présente description de l'invention, il est fait référence ci-dessous à une seule structuration 112 pour faciliter la lecture du texte. La notion de « structuration » définit ici une surface dont l'état, c'est-à-dire la topographie, a été modifié et celle-ci peut consister en un satinage, une texturation, une gravure, etc.Naturally, the method can include several localized ablation steps, so as to produce several structurings 112. In particular, the ablation steps can be carried out with different parameters so as to produce structurings 112 with different appearances. However, in the present description of the invention, reference is made below to a single structure 112 to facilitate reading of the text. The notion of “structuring” here defines a surface whose state, that is to say the topography, has been modified and this can consist of satin finishing, texturing, engraving, etc.

Il y a lieu de noter que les paramètres utilisés pour la mise en oeuvre de la ou des étapes d'ablation sont déterminés suivant l'aspect désiré de la ou des structurations 112, leur détermination étant à la portée de l'homme du métier.It should be noted that the parameters used for implementing the ablation step(s) are determined according to the desired appearance of the structure(s) 112, their determination being within the reach of those skilled in the art.

A l'issue de l'étape d'ablation localisée, la partie de la couche interne 12 non impactée par l'ablation repose contre une première portion de la face interne 110 du substrat 11 et les poches 14 débouchent sur une seconde portion de la face interne 110 du substrat 11, ladite seconde portion de la face interne 110 étant structurée. Ainsi, structuration 112 coïncide parfaitement avec la poche 14 avec laquelle elle est générée. Le respect des tolérances d'alignement de la couche interne 12 avec la structuration 112 de la face interne 110 est donc garanti.At the end of the localized ablation step, the part of the internal layer 12 not impacted by the ablation rests against a first portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 and the pockets 14 open onto a second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, said second portion of the internal face 110 being structured. Thus, structuring 112 coincides perfectly with the pocket 14 with which it is generated. Compliance with the alignment tolerances of the internal layer 12 with the structuring 112 of the internal face 110 is therefore guaranteed.

L'ablation locale de la couche interne 12, et par voie de conséquence, la structuration 112 de la seconde portion de la face interne 110, est préférentiellement réalisée par faisceau laser. Alternativement, l'étape d'ablation locale peut être réalisée par usinage mécanique, tel que par gravure robotisée avec une pointe diamant, par usinage chimique, etc.The local ablation of the internal layer 12, and consequently, the structuring 112 of the second portion of the internal face 110, is preferably carried out by laser beam. Alternatively, the local ablation step can be carried out by mechanical machining, such as by robotic engraving with a diamond tip, by chemical machining, etc.

Une étape de traitement de surface de la couche interne 12 et de la face interne 110 du substrat 11, notamment de la seconde portion de ladite face interne 110, est par la suite réalisé. Un tel traitement peut consister au dépôt d'une couche de revêtement antireflet ou d'un revêtement constitué par une couche de matériau métallique, organique, céramique, semi-conducteur, d'oxyde, de carbure, de nitrure, de laque ou d'email.A step of surface treatment of the internal layer 12 and the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, in particular of the second portion of said internal face 110, is subsequently carried out. Such treatment may consist of the deposition of a layer of anti-reflective coating or of a coating consisting of a layer of metallic, organic, ceramic, semiconductor material, oxide, carbide, nitride, lacquer or E-mail.

Avantageusement, dans un exemple de mise en œuvre, le procédé selon l'invention peut comporter, avant la réalisation de l'étape de traitement de surface de la couche interne 12 et de la face interne 110 du substrat 11, une étape de gravure de la couche interne 12 dans laquelle une partie de la couche interne 12 est éliminée de sorte à conformer ladite couche selon une forme prédéfinie, sans que la face interne 110 du substrat 11 ne soit impacté, tel que le représente la figure 3.Advantageously, in an example of implementation, the method according to the invention may comprise, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer 12 and the internal face 110 of the substrate 11, a step of etching the internal layer 12 in which a part of the internal layer 12 is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face 110 of the substrate 11 being impacted, as represented by the Figure 3 .

Une telle étape de gravure peut être mise en œuvre par photolithographie, usinage laser, etc.Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.

Avantageusement, le procédé peut comporter une étape de gravure du substrat 11 réalisée de sorte à générer un motif à l'intérieur de l'épaisseur dudit substrat 11, sans impacter la face interne 110, ni une face externe 111 dudit substrat 11 opposée à la face interne 110. Cette caractéristique permet d'enrichir le décor généré par la mise en œuvre du procédé selon l'invention.Advantageously, the method may include a step of etching the substrate 11 carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate 11, without impacting the internal face 110, nor an external face 111 of said substrate 11 opposite the internal face 110. This characteristic makes it possible to enrich the decoration generated by the implementation of the method according to the invention.

Dans un exemple de mise en œuvre, le procédé selon l'invention peut comporter une étape de dépôt d'une couche mince, dite « couche externe » 13, sur tout ou partie de la surface d'une face externe 110 du substrat 11, suivie d'une étape d'ablation localisée de la couche externe 13, tel que représenté sur la figure 4.In an example of implementation, the method according to the invention may comprise a step of depositing a thin layer, called "external layer" 13, on all or part of the surface of an external face 110 of the substrate 11, followed by a step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13, as shown in the figure 4 .

L'ablation est réalisée de sorte qu'une partie de la couche externe 13 est conservée sur une première portion de la face externe 111 du substrat 11, et de sorte à former au moins une poche 15 débouchant sur une seconde portion de la face externe 110 du substrat 11 et à structurer, dans le même temps, ladite seconde portion de la face externe 110. Afin de générer un décor attractif, la seconde portion de la face externe 111 s'étend au moins en regard de la seconde portion de la face interne 110 du substrat 11. Ainsi, la couche interne 12 et la structuration 112 sont visibles à travers la poche 15.The ablation is carried out so that part of the outer layer 13 is retained on a first portion of the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, and so as to form at least one pocket 15 opening onto a second portion of the outer face 110 of the substrate 11 and to structure, at the same time, said second portion of the external face 110. In order to generate an attractive decoration, the second portion of the external face 111 extends at least opposite the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11. Thus, the internal layer 12 and the structuring 112 are visible through the pocket 15.

En addition ou alternativement à l'étape d'ablation localisée de la couche externe 13, le procédé peut comprendre une étape de gravure de la couche externe 13, de manière analogue à l'étape de gravure de la couche interne 12. Une telle étape de gravure est représentée sur la figure 5, en combinaison avec l'étape d'ablation localisée de la couche externe 13. L'étape de gravure de la couche externe 13 est avantageusement réalisée de sorte qu'une partie de la couche externe 13 est éliminée afin de conformer ladite couche selon une forme prédéfinie, sans que la face externe 111 du substrat 11 ne soit impactée. Une telle étape de gravure peut être mise en œuvre par photolithographie, usinage laser, etc.In addition or alternatively to the step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13, the method may comprise a step of etching the outer layer 13, in a manner analogous to the step of etching the inner layer 12. Such a step engraving is shown on the figure 5 , in combination with the step of localized ablation of the outer layer 13. The step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that part of the outer layer 13 is eliminated in order to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the external face 111 of the substrate 11 being impacted. Such an engraving step can be implemented by photolithography, laser machining, etc.

Le résultat de l'étape de gravure de la couche externe 13 est représenté sur la figure 5, sur laquelle est également visible la couche interne 12 conformée sous une forme prédéfinie à l'issue de l'étape de gravure de la couche interne 12, telle que décrite plus haut dans le texte.The result of the step of etching the outer layer 13 is shown on the figure 5 , on which is also visible the internal layer 12 shaped in a predefined form at the end of the step of etching the internal layer 12, as described above in the text.

Autrement dit, les couches interne 12 et externe 13 peuvent être l'une et l'autre éliminées localement de sorte à générer des décors spécifiques. En particulier, l'étape de gravure de la couche externe 13 est avantageusement réalisée de sorte que la couche interne 12 soit visible à travers le substrat 11. En d'autres termes, l'étape de gravure de la couche externe 13 est réalisée de sorte qu'une projection de la couche interne 12 sur la surface externe 111 du substrat 11 s'étende au-delà de la couche externe 13, comme le montre la figure 5.In other words, the internal 12 and external 13 layers can both be eliminated locally so as to generate specific decorations. In particular, the step of etching the outer layer 13 is advantageously carried out so that the internal layer 12 is visible through the substrate 11. In other words, the step of etching the external layer 13 is carried out so that a projection of the internal layer 12 on the external surface 111 of the substrate 11 extends beyond the outer layer 13, as shown in figure 5 .

La couche externe 13 et la face externe 111 du substrat 11, notamment la seconde portion de ladite face externe 111, de peuvent par la suite être soumis à un traitement de surface, par exemple tel que décrit précédemment pour la couche interne 12 et la seconde portion de la face interne 110 du substrat 11.The outer layer 13 and the outer face 111 of the substrate 11, in particular the second portion of said outer face 111, can subsequently be subjected to a surface treatment, for example as described previously for the inner layer 12 and the second portion of the internal face 110 of the substrate 11.

Avantageusement, la face externe 111 du substrat peut être polie lors d'une étape de polissage réalisée avant l'étape de dépôt de la couche externe 13 et avant l'étape de dépôt de la couche interne 12, afin d'éviter de détériorer lesdites couches.Advantageously, the external face 111 of the substrate can be polished during a polishing step carried out before the step of depositing the external layer 13 and before the step of depositing the internal layer 12, in order to avoid damaging said layers.

On note que, grâce aux caractéristiques de l'invention, l'aspect visuel du décor du composant d'habillage 10 peut être particulièrement riche et attractif dans la mesure où au contraste entre la possible différence de couleurs de la couche interne 12 et de la couche externe 13, s'ajoute le contraste entre les différents états de surface des portions de la face interne 110 et de la face externe 111 du substrat 11, sur lesquelles lesdites couches sont respectivement déposées. Par ailleurs, le procédé selon l'invention permet de générer un effet visuel de profondeur entre les couches interne 12 et externe 13.Note that, thanks to the characteristics of the invention, the visual appearance of the decoration of the covering component 10 can be particularly rich and attractive to the extent that the contrast between the possible difference in colors of the internal layer 12 and the external layer 13, is added the contrast between the different surface states of the portions of the internal face 110 and the external face 111 of the substrate 11, on which said layers are respectively deposited. Furthermore, the method according to the invention makes it possible to generate a visual effect of depth between the internal 12 and external 13 layers.

De manière plus générale, il est à noter que les modes de mise en œuvre et de réalisation considérés ci-dessus ont été décrits à titre d'exemples non limitatifs, et que d'autres variantes sont par conséquent envisageables.More generally, it should be noted that the modes of implementation and embodiment considered above have been described by way of non-limiting examples, and that other variants are therefore possible.

Notamment, la couche interne 12 et/ou la couche externe 13 peuvent être constituées par un empilement de couches minces, de façon connue en soi par l'homme du métier.In particular, the internal layer 12 and/or the external layer 13 can be constituted by a stack of thin layers, in a manner known per se to those skilled in the art.

Claims (12)

Procédé de fabrication d'un composant d'habillage (10) d'une montre, d'un article de mode ou d'un article de bijouterie ou de joaillerie, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend les étapes suivantes : - dépôt d'une couche interne (12) sur tout ou partie de la surface d'une face interne (110) d'un substrat (11) réalisé dans un matériau transparent, - ablation localisée de la couche interne (12), de sorte à conserver une partie de ladite couche interne (12) sur une première portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11), ladite ablation étant réalisée de sorte à former au moins une poche (14) débouchant sur une seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11) et de sorte à structurer ladite seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11), - traitement de surface de la couche interne (12) et de la seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11). Method for manufacturing a trim component (10) of a watch, a fashion item or an item of jewelry, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - deposition of an internal layer (12) on all or part of the surface of an internal face (110) of a substrate (11) made of a transparent material, - localized ablation of the internal layer (12), so as to retain a part of said internal layer (12) on a first portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), said ablation being carried out so as to form minus one pocket (14) opening onto a second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11) and so as to structure said second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), - surface treatment of the internal layer (12) and the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11). Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel lors d'une étape de polissage réalisée avant l'étape de dépôt de la couche interne (12), la face interne (110) du substrat est polie.Method according to claim 1, in which during a polishing step carried out before the step of depositing the internal layer (12), the internal face (110) of the substrate is polished. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 ou 2, comprenant, avant la réalisation de l'étape de traitement de surface de la couche interne (12) et de la seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11), une étape de gravure de la couche interne (12) dans laquelle une partie de la couche interne (12) est éliminée de sorte à conformer ladite couche selon une forme prédéfinie, sans que la face interne (110) du substrat (11) ne soit impactée.Method according to one of claims 1 or 2, comprising, before carrying out the step of surface treatment of the internal layer (12) and the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), a step of etching the internal layer (12) in which part of the internal layer (12) is eliminated so as to conform said layer according to a predefined shape, without the internal face (110) of the substrate (11) being impacted . Procédé de fabrication selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, dans lequel l'étape d'ablation localisée de la couche interne (12) est réalisée par faisceau laser.Manufacturing method according to one of claims 1 to 3, in which the step of localized ablation of the internal layer (12) is carried out by laser beam. Procédé de fabrication selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, comprenant une étape de gravure du substrat (11) réalisée de sorte à générer un motif à l'intérieur de l'épaisseur dudit substrat (11), sans impacter la face interne (110), ni une face externe (111) dudit substrat (11) opposée à la face interne (110).Manufacturing method according to one of claims 1 to 4, comprising a step of etching the substrate (11) carried out so as to generate a pattern within the thickness of said substrate (11), without impacting the internal face ( 110), nor an external face (111) of said substrate (11) opposite the internal face (110). Procédé de fabrication selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, comprenant les étapes suivantes : - dépôt d'une couche externe (13) sur tout ou partie de la surface d'une face externe (111) du substrat (11), - ablation localisée et/ou gravure de la couche externe (13), - traitement de surface de la couche externe (13). Manufacturing process according to one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the following steps: - deposition of an external layer (13) on all or part of the surface of an external face (111) of the substrate (11), - localized ablation and/or etching of the outer layer (13), - surface treatment of the outer layer (13). Procédé de fabrication selon la revendication 6, dans lequel l'étape d'ablation localisée de la couche externe (13) est réalisée de sorte à : - conserver une partie de la couche externe (13) sur une première portion de la face externe (111) du substrat (11), - former au moins une poche (15) débouchant sur une seconde portion de la face externe (111) du substrat (11), ladite seconde portion s'étendant au moins en regard de la seconde portion de la face interne (110) du substrat (11), et - structurer ladite seconde portion de la face externe (110) dudit substrat (11). Manufacturing method according to claim 6, in which the step of localized ablation of the external layer (13) is carried out so as to: - keep part of the outer layer (13) on a first portion of the outer face (111) of the substrate (11), - form at least one pocket (15) opening onto a second portion of the external face (111) of the substrate (11), said second portion extending at least opposite the second portion of the internal face (110) of the substrate (11), and - structure said second portion of the external face (110) of said substrate (11). Procédé selon la revendication 6 ou 7, dans lequel l'étape de gravure de la couche externe (13) est réalisée de sorte qu'une partie de la couche externe (13) est éliminée afin de conformer ladite couche externe (13) selon une forme prédéfinie, sans que la face externe (111) du substrat (11) ne soit impactée.Method according to claim 6 or 7, in which the step of etching the outer layer (13) is carried out so that part of the outer layer (13) is eliminated in order to conform said outer layer (13) according to a predefined shape, without the external face (111) of the substrate (11) being impacted. Procédé selon la revendication 8, dans lequel l'étape de gravure de la couche externe (13) est avantageusement réalisée de sorte que la couche interne (12) soit visible à travers le substrat (11).Method according to claim 8, in which the step of etching the external layer (13) is advantageously carried out so that the internal layer (12) is visible through the substrate (11). Procédé selon l'une des revendications 6 à 9, dans lequel, une étape de polissage dans laquelle la face externe (111) du substrat est polie, est réalisée avant les étapes de dépôt des couches externe (13) et interne (12).Method according to one of claims 6 to 9, in which, a polishing step in which the external face (111) of the substrate is polished, is carried out before the steps of deposition of the external (13) and internal (12) layers. Cadran de montre caractérisé en ce qu'il est formé par la mise en œuvre du procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 10.Watch dial characterized in that it is formed by implementing the method according to one of claims 1 to 10. Article de mode caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte un composant d'habillage formé par la mise en œuvre du procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 10.Fashion item characterized in that it comprises a covering component formed by the implementation of the method according to one of claims 1 to 10.
EP22196167.5A 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Method for manufacturing a component for covering a watch, a fashion item or a jewellery item Pending EP4338638A1 (en)

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EP22196167.5A EP4338638A1 (en) 2022-09-16 2022-09-16 Method for manufacturing a component for covering a watch, a fashion item or a jewellery item
JP2023122184A JP2024043486A (en) 2022-09-16 2023-07-27 Method of manufacturing external components of portable watches, fashion items or jewelry
CN202311198009.3A CN117719269A (en) 2022-09-16 2023-09-15 Method for manufacturing an external part of a watch, fashion item or jewelry item
US18/468,082 US20240099433A1 (en) 2022-09-16 2023-09-15 Method for manufacturing an external component of a watch, of a fashion item or of a jewellery item

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EP3037897B1 (en) * 2014-12-23 2020-04-29 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Method of manufacturing a display dial for a portable objectsuch as a timepiece and display dial
EP3709102A1 (en) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Timepiece component or jewellery item with ceramic base and structured decoration
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EP0985985B1 (en) * 1997-05-22 2003-03-26 Citizen Watch Co. Ltd. Display plate for timepieces and method for fabricating the same
US20040239750A1 (en) * 2001-08-29 2004-12-02 Bernward Kneer Method for the production of a dial and dial produced according to said method
EP1893542B1 (en) * 2005-06-14 2017-08-02 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Technical or decorative component associating a transparent material and a silica-based amorphous material and method for making same
EP3037897B1 (en) * 2014-12-23 2020-04-29 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Method of manufacturing a display dial for a portable objectsuch as a timepiece and display dial
CH713871A1 (en) * 2017-07-27 2019-01-31 Richemont Int Sa Clock component comprising graphic elements of various aspects and method of manufacturing such a component.
EP3709102A1 (en) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Timepiece component or jewellery item with ceramic base and structured decoration
EP3708384A1 (en) * 2019-03-14 2020-09-16 Omega SA Trim element or dial of timepiece or piece of jewellery made of conductive material

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US20240099433A1 (en) 2024-03-28
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