EP4312950A2 - Haarstyling- und haarpflegezusammensetzungen mit stärke aus leguminosenpflanzen - Google Patents

Haarstyling- und haarpflegezusammensetzungen mit stärke aus leguminosenpflanzen

Info

Publication number
EP4312950A2
EP4312950A2 EP22712253.8A EP22712253A EP4312950A2 EP 4312950 A2 EP4312950 A2 EP 4312950A2 EP 22712253 A EP22712253 A EP 22712253A EP 4312950 A2 EP4312950 A2 EP 4312950A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
starch
longevity
curls
retention
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP22712253.8A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Léon Mentink
Géraldine LOUVET-POMMIER
Camille LACORE
Caroline SORIN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Roquette Freres SA
Original Assignee
Roquette Freres SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Roquette Freres SA filed Critical Roquette Freres SA
Publication of EP4312950A2 publication Critical patent/EP4312950A2/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions, in particular for the hair, for styling, shaping the hair, in particular shaping the hair into curls, as well as the thermal protection of the hair.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a legume starch for shaping the curls of the hair and also for preventing, eliminating or reducing the thermal or chemical stress of the hair.
  • compositions have been proposed in the state of the art for maintaining the curls of the hair while giving them good definition and regularity of these curls.
  • these compositions comprise combinations of one or more fatty esters with one or more fixing polymers, thickening polymers and liquid fatty substances.
  • the curls of the hair can be damaged by repeated drying and styling.
  • Thermo-protective products to be applied to the hair before drying have been developed to act as a barrier to heat.
  • compositions proposed in the state of the art whether for maintaining the curls, defining them or for protecting the hair from heat stress, generally comprise thickeners which weigh down the hair, thicken it, stiffen it and thus lead to a "cardboard effect", making the hair fixed and dull.
  • compositions which make it possible to define the curls of the hair without weighing them down, and which can also protect the hair from the thermal stress generated by heating appliances such as a hair dryer or straightening iron or to loop.
  • heating appliances such as a hair dryer or straightening iron or to loop.
  • modified legume starches preferably pea starch
  • the legume starch according to the invention allows better definition of the curls, better regularity of the pitch of the curl, better movement, even in wet conditions. These effects are advantageously obtained without creating a “cardboard” effect. Hair stays light and natural.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a modified legume starch to increase the retention of hair curls and / or to maintain and preferably increase the longevity of the compression resistance of the curl and/or to maintain and preferably increase the longevity of the compression stiffness of the buckle.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the retention of the curls as well as to increase the longevity of the holding of the curl and its rigidity without cardboard effect and while retaining a certain flexibility to the touch.
  • legume starch makes it possible to prevent and protect the hair from attacks induced by thermal and/or chemical stress.
  • legume starch has been shown to reduce the oxidation of hair proteins on the cuticle and in the cortex of the hair. The hair is thus protected on the surface but also inside the hair fiber.
  • the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch to prevent, eliminate or reduce hair stress.
  • the present invention relates to specific cosmetic compositions.
  • compositions advantageously make it possible to define and maintain the curls of the hair and to protect the hair from the stress generated by heating devices but also by the sun or chemical products for example to perm, bleach or straighten the hair.
  • the subject of the present invention is a process for shaping hair curls and/or preventing, and or reducing hair stress, comprising a step of applying said curls hair of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • a subject of the present invention is also, according to a fifth aspect, the use of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention for shaping hair curls and/or for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress.
  • FIG.1 is a microscopic epi-fluroescence image associated with a densitometric analysis of the images of a sagittal view of a hair in order to quantify the oxidation of the hair in the cuticle and the cortex, on three groups locks, a control group, a positive control group and a group treated with an aqueous solution of Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch (“BBR ST720 treated)”).
  • FIG.2 is a microscopic epi-fluroescence image associated with a densitometric analysis of the images of a longitudinal view of a hair in order to quantify the oxidation on the surface of the hair over a portion of its length, on three groups of locks, a control group, a positive control group and a group treated with an aqueous solution of Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch (“BBR ST720 treated)”).
  • the present invention relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch to increase the retention of hair curls and / or to maintain and preferably increase the longevity of the compression resistance of the curl and / or to maintain and preferably increase the longevity of the compression stiffness of the buckle.
  • the longevity of the compressive strength or the stiffness in compression corresponds to the resistance of the buckle subjected to mechanical forces applied repeatedly.
  • leg within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any plant belonging to the families Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae and in particular any plant belonging to the family Papilionaceae such as, for example, peas, beans, broad bean, horse bean, lentil, or lupine.
  • the legume starch is a pea starch.
  • the legume starch according to the invention is obtained from a starch having an amylose content of from 25% to 45%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and more preferably from 35% to 40%, the percentages being expressed in dry weight relative to the dry weight of legume starch, and determined before any subsequent treatment such as hydrolysis and/or alkylation of said starch.
  • modified within the meaning of the present application, it is meant that the starch has undergone at least one modification chosen from thermal or chemical modifications of its macromolecular structure, or from chemical substitution modifications of the hydroxyls carried by the starch by other chemical groups.
  • the modified legume starch is chosen from acetylated, octenyl succinate, or hydroxyalkylated legume starches.
  • the starch according to the invention is a hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated, preferably hydroxypropylated, starch.
  • hydroxypropyl starch within the meaning of the present invention, a starch substituted by hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to those skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with propylene oxide, having in particular a content of hydroxypropyl groups of between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight relative to the dry weight of hydroxypropyl starch, preferably between 1 and 10%, more preferably between 5 and 9%, and in particular close to 7% .
  • This content is in particular determined by proton Nuclear Magnetic Resonance spectrometry, in particular according to standard EN ISO 11543:2002 F.
  • hydrolyzed starch within the meaning of the present invention, a starch having undergone a hydrolysis operation, that is to say an operation to reduce its average molecular weight.
  • a hydrolysis operation that is to say an operation to reduce its average molecular weight.
  • a person skilled in the art knows how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatments, or again by enzymatic treatments.
  • a person skilled in the art will naturally adjust the level of thinning of the starch, depending on the desired viscosity.
  • the hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch according to the invention may also comprise one or more other physical and/or chemical modifications, as long as said modifications do not interfere with the desired properties of said starch.
  • An example of chemical modification is in particular crosslinking.
  • the hydrolyzed and alkylated starch according to the invention may also have other modifications, and may for example have undergone physical treatments, in particular chosen from the known operations of gelatinization, pre- gelatinization, extrusion, atomization or drying, microwave or ultrasound treatment operations, plasticization or granulation.
  • the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis will preferably be non-granular.
  • the starch according to the invention is characterized in that it is rendered soluble. It can be rendered soluble by any technique known to those skilled in the art, in particular by thermal and/or mechanical treatment, for example by a cooking operation in an aqueous medium, optionally followed by a drying step when obtaining a powdery product is desired.
  • the operation aimed at making the starch soluble can entirely take place before the introduction of said starch into the cosmetic composition, either before or after the alkylation and/or hydrolysis of the starch, or even after its introduction into the cosmetic composition, for example by cooking the cosmetic composition at the time of its implementation.
  • the modified, preferably hydrolyzed and alkylated legume starch according to the invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight of from 1 to 5000 kDa, preferably from 10 to 3000 kDa, most preferably from 20 to 2000 kDa , and even more preferably from 100 to 1800 kDa.
  • the molecular weight can be around 1500 kDa.
  • the weight average molecular weight being determined by HPSEC-MALLS (high performance size exclusion chromatography coupled in line with detection by multi-angle laser light scattering).
  • Hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated pea starches are commercially available and are offered by the Applicant under the Beauty by Roquette® ST 720 brand.
  • a method commonly used and known to those skilled in the art is the measurement of the retention of the loops, most often in “length of the loops”, but also in “pitch of the loops”. To characterize the retention of loops, two parameters are measured:
  • the pitch of the loops also called intervals of the loops, and which is defined as the average value of the pitch of the irregular helix described by the loops.
  • the length of the curls should not or substantially not increase, and the pitch of the curls should be maintained, in order to conclude that the legume starch can maintain human hair in the form of curls.
  • these parameters are measured by suspending strands of hair, previously styled on a curler, on a squared and millimeter grid placed in an atmosphere controlled in terms of humidity and temperature. The lengths to follow are then measured by reading on the millimeter grid over time.
  • the length of the lock before styling is the length between the base of the lock and its end, standardized at 26 cm for the locks in our tests.
  • the length of the styled lock (ie curled) at time tO, respectively at time t is the length between the base of the lock and its end just after having placed the lock capped (ie buckled) in the controlled-atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a period t in said enclosure.
  • the total length of the intervals on the styled lock at time tO is the distance between the base of the styled lock and the end of the styled lock (in general 17 cm in our tests on the curled lock).
  • the mean of the intervals at time t0, respectively at time t is the mean of the values of the pitches of each well-formed loop on the styled lock just after having placed the styled lock in the controlled-atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a duration t in said chamber.
  • the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to increase the retention of the length of the curls, which results in a reduction in the initial reduction in the length of the curls, and in an increase in the value at which this length typically stabilizes 3 hours after styling.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of curls in length at a value less than 35%, preferably less than 30%, and most preferably less than 25%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of curls in length at a value greater than or equal to 55%, preferably greater than or equal to 60%, more preferably greater than or equal to 65%, and most preferably greater than or equal to equal to 70%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of curls in length at a value less than 75%, preferably less than 60%, and most preferably less than 45%.
  • legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of the curls in length at a value greater than or equal to 25%, preferably greater than or equal to 35%, more preferably greater than or equal to 40%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to increase the retention of the pitch of the loops, which results in a reduction in the initial reduction in the pitch of the loops, and in an increase in the value at which the typically stabilize 3 hours after styling.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of curls in steps (or intervals ) to a value less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 2%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of curls in steps (or intervals) at a value greater than or equal to 94%, preferably greater than or equal to 96%, more preferably greater than or equal to 97%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to maintain the initial reduction in the retention of curls in steps (or intervals ) to a value of less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, and most preferably less than 10%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the retention of the curls in steps (or intervals) at a value greater than or equal to 60%, preferably greater than or equal to 65%, more preferably greater than or equal to 80%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to maintain retention of the curls in length of at least 60%, preferentially of at least 65%, and very preferentially of at least 70%, for a period of at least 1 hour, preferably at least 2 hours, preferably at least 3 hours, preferably for at least 5 hours, and most preferably for at least 7 hours.
  • the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to maintain retention of the pitch of the curls of at least 94%, preferably of at least 97%, for a period of at least 1 hour, preferably at least 2 hours, preferably at least 3 hours, preferably for at least 5 hours, and most preferably for at least 7 hours.
  • Legume starch therefore has styling properties for retention of curls, whether in retention of the length of the curls or in retention of the pitch of the curls.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a modified legume starch to increase the retention of hair curls, and preferably to increase the retention of the length of the curls and/or the retention of the pitch of the curls.
  • the longevity of the compression resistance it is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum force before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the compression resistance,
  • the longevity of the rigidity in compression it is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum gradient of force before breakage of the film of styling product between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle , expressed in “%”; the larger the value, the greater the longevity of the compressive stiffness.
  • these parameters can be measured by a Dia-Stron® brand device, the “MTT175”, following the “curl compression” protocol.
  • the legume starch according to the invention ensures the longevity of the compression resistance of the loop as well as the longevity of the compression rigidity of the loop.
  • the legume starch according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to achieve a longevity of the resistance to compression of the curls greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%.
  • the legume starch according to the invention allows advantageously a longevity of the compression rigidity of the loops greater than 75%, preferably greater than 85%.
  • the present invention relates to the use of a modified legume starch to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression resistance of the loop and/or to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression rigidity of the loop.
  • the starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the retention of hair curls and to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compression resistance of the curl and to maintain and preferentially increase the longevity of the compressive stiffness of the buckle.
  • the longevity of the bending rigidity it is the complement to 100% of the relative variation of the maximum gradient of force before the film breaks between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in “%”; the larger the value, the greater the longevity of the stiffness.
  • these parameters can be measured according to the “3-point bend” protocol on the Dia-Stron® MTT175.
  • the modified legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the maximum flexural strength of a styling composition by at least 10%, preferably by at least 20%, more preferably by at least 30% , and most preferably by at least 40%, relative to the maximum bending strength of the same styling composition without the legume starch according to the invention.
  • the modified legume starch according to the invention also makes it possible to reduce the maximum bending stiffness of a styling composition by at least 10%, preferably by at least 20%, and most preferably by at least 30%, by relative to the maximum bending stiffness of the same styling composition without the legume starch according to the invention.
  • the modified legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to increase the maximum bending strength, while reducing the maximum bending stiffness: it therefore allows a stronger hold of the curls, while by reducing the cardboard effect.
  • the modified legume starch according to the invention also makes it possible to increase the longevity of the flexural strength of a loop, advantageously to a value greater than or equal to 92%, preferably greater than or equal to 95%, and most preferably greater than or equal to 98%.
  • the modified legume starch according to the invention also makes it possible to increase the longevity of the bending rigidity of a buckle.
  • the modified legume starch according to the invention allows the curls to hold better, improves their fixation, has a long-term effect, and this with a moderate cardboard effect, even without cardboard effect.
  • the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch for preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress.
  • the stress may be thermal stress and/or chemical stress.
  • thermal stress is induced by drying, regular or otherwise, of the hair and/or the use of a straightening iron or any heating device, but also by UV rays during exposure to the sun.
  • chemical stress is induced by the application of oxidizing products, for example those contained in hair colorings or dyes, products for bleaching the hair, entirely or partially, products for creating curls, intended for perming or straightening. Chemical stress is also induced by frequent exposure to chlorine.
  • legume starch makes it possible to prevent and protect the hair from attacks induced by thermal and/or chemical stress.
  • legume starch has been shown to reduce the oxidation of hair proteins in the cuticle and in the cortex of the hair. The hair is thus protected on the surface but also inside the hair fiber.
  • the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch to prevent, eliminate or reduce oxidation of the hair induced by heat stress.
  • the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic use of a modified legume starch to prevent, eliminate or reduce the oxidation of hair induced by chemical stress.
  • the modified legume starch according to the invention makes it possible to protect the hair from thermal and/or chemical stress.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a modified legume starch in a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is preferably cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable.
  • physiologically acceptable medium or “cosmetically acceptable” or “dermatologically acceptable” means any medium which does not present deleterious side effects and in particular which does not produce redness, inflammation, heating, tightness or unacceptable tingling for a user of cosmetic or dermatological products.
  • the medium is thus compatible with the keratin materials of human beings.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.1% to 30%, preferably from 0.5% to 20%, and very particularly from 0.75% to 10% by weight of modified legume starch. The percentages by weight being expressed relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in all the galenic forms used in the field of hair care and normally used for application to the hair, such as aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, solutions or dispersions of the lotion type. or serum, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), emulsions of the cream type, aqueous gels , microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of the ionic and/or nonionic type.
  • compositions are prepared by the usual methods known to those skilled in the art.
  • the composition according to the invention may be in the form of emulsions, i.e., compositions comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in one another, for example water emulsions -in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) or multiple (W/O/W or O/W/O).
  • emulsions i.e., compositions comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in one another, for example water emulsions -in-oil (W/O) or oil-in-water (O/W) or multiple (W/O/W or O/W/O).
  • the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase. These emulsions comprise an oily continuous phase. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. These emulsions comprise an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. These emulsions comprise an aqueous continuous phase.
  • the pharmaceutical forms for rinse-off application say “rinse-off” in English: shampoos, hair conditioners, hair masks, serums, mousses, balms, creams, sprays, conditioners, detanglers, hair creams, dyes or coloring, products intended to bleach or perm or straighten the hair or galenic forms intended to be applied to the hair without rinsing, known as "leave on” in English, such as emulsions, gels, creams, aqueous gels , sprays, serums.
  • Aqueous phase The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally one or more water-miscible organic solvents.
  • the water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention comprises from 40% to 95% by weight of water, preferably from 50% to 90%, preferably from 55% to 85%, preferably from 60% to 80%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention comprises from 10% to 90% by weight of oil, preferably from 25% to 75%, preferably from 40% to 70%, preferably from 45% to 65%, by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may comprise, in the aqueous phase, at least one water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be volatile.
  • composition according to the invention comprising at least one mono-alcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.
  • the mono-alcohol having 1 to 5 atoms is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsion according to the invention may also comprise at least one humectant.
  • the humectant may be chosen from polyols and/or esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol.
  • polyols means any molecule having in its structure at least two free hydroxy (-OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.).
  • the polyol will be chosen from maltitol, mannitol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, isosorbide, glycerol or glycerin, glucose, sucrose, polydextrose, hydrogenated glucose syrups , dextrins, maltodextrins, glucose syrups, and mixtures thereof.
  • Glucamate SSE-20 (INCI: PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE) by the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc.
  • the composition comprises from 0.1% to 25% by weight of polyols, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of polyols , relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil.
  • oil is understood to mean a compound which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.), and which, when it is introduced at the rate of at least 1% by weight in water at 25° C., is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to the extent of less than 10% by weight, relative to the weight of oil introduced into the water.
  • the oil will be chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid fatty phase advantageously comprises one or more non-volatile oils which provide an emollient effect on the skin.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .
  • fatty esters such as cetearyl isononoate, isotridecyl isononoate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyl palmitate decyl, myristate or 2-octyldodecyl lactate, 2-diethyl hexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, tracetin, tricprine, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, caprate and caprylate mixture of coconut, benzoates of C12 to C15 alcohols, glycol esters such as butylene glycol cocoate, glycerin tri
  • non-volatile oils can also be oils of the hydrocarbon or silicone type such as paraffin oil, squalane oil, petroleum jelly, dimethyl siloxanes and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile oil is chosen from stearic acid, jojoba oil (INCI: simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), grape seed oil (INCI: vitis vinifera seed oil), macadamia oil (INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil), refined oleic sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus seed oil), the mixture of coconut caprate and caprylate such as the product Miglyol Coco 810 (INCI: Coco -Caprylate/Caprate), sweet almond oil (INCI: Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), sesame oil (INCI: Sesamum indicum seed oil).
  • jojoba oil INCI: simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
  • grape seed oil INCI: vitis vinifera seed oil
  • macadamia oil ICI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
  • refined oleic sunflower oil Helianthus annuus seed oil
  • the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, preferably from 40% to 70% by weight. , preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the liquid fatty phase can also comprise volatile oils.
  • volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating from the skin, in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • Volatile oils can be example chosen from silicone oils or triglycerides of short fatty acids to reduce the greasy feel.
  • the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 10% to 90%% by weight, preferably from 25% to 75%% by weight, preferably from 40% to 70%% by weight, preferably from 45% to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty or oily phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty phase structuring agent such as a wax.
  • wax means a fatty substance with a reversible liquid/solid state change, having a melting point above 30° C. and generally below 90° C., which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and has an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state.
  • the waxes used according to the invention can consist of polar or apolar waxes or of a mixture of the two.
  • Apolar means a wax containing only carbon, hydrogen and/or phosphorus atoms and in particular a hydrocarbon.
  • the polar waxes can in particular be chosen from animal waxes, vegetable waxes and synthetic or silicone waxes containing polar groups such as esters.
  • These waxes can in particular be used in the form predispersed in an oil, as is the case with the mixture of candelilla wax and jojoba seed oil.
  • butters such as shea butter, cocoa butter, camellia butter.
  • the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one gelling agent.
  • gelling agent is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds, thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.
  • the gelling agent is chosen from hydrophilic organic gelling agents, and/or lipophilic organic gelling agents, and/or amphiphilic organic gelling agents, and/or mineral gelling agents.
  • the gelling agent makes it possible to viscosify the continuous phase, that is to say to adjust the viscosity of the continuous phase to a value ranging from 100 mPa.s to 20,000 mPa.s.
  • the organic gelling gelling agent can be chosen from polymers of synthetic origin or of vegetable origin, preferably of vegetable origin, chemically modified or not. It can thus be chosen from gums derived from plants such as gum arabic, konjac gum, guar gum or their derivatives; gums extracted from algae such as alginates; gums resulting from microbial fermentation such as xanthans, for example the product Keltrol CG (INCI: xanthan gum), sold by the company CP KELCO or the product Xanthan Gum FNCS-PC (INCI: xanthan gum) sold by the company JUNGBUNZLAUER INTERNATIONAL AG, mannans, scleroglucans or their derivatives; cellulose and its derivatives such as carboxymethylcellulose or hydroxyethylcellulose; starch and its derivatives such as in particular modified starches, in particular acetylated, carboxymethylated, octenylsuccinate or hydroxypropylated; synthetic polymers such as polyacid-acryl
  • carbomers mention will be made, for example, of the product Carbopol Ultrez 30 (INCI: carbomer) from the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc. or CARBOPOL ETD 2050 POLYMER (INCI: carbomer).
  • gum arabic and xanthan gum such as the product Solagum AX (INCI: Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Xanthan Gum), sold by the company SEPPIC, mixtures of starch and cellulose derivatives such as the product Beauté by Roquette® DS112 (INCI: Starch acetate (and) Hydroxyethylcellulose (and) Xanthan gum), sold by the company ROQUETTE.
  • the mineral gelling agent can be chosen from magnesium and/or aluminum silicates.
  • An example of such a mineral gelling agent is Veegum® Pure from Vanderbilt Minerals LLC, which is a magnesium aluminum silicate.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the role of said at least one surfactant may be to emulsify the oil in water or the water in oil, or to cleanse and/or condition the keratin fibres.
  • the cationic surfactants include in particular salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyl trimethylammonium, distearyldimethyl-ammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxlammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium chloride marketed under the
  • acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different.
  • These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiiso propanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated with fatty acids or with mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters.
  • This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl , methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl , methyl methanesulfonate,
  • Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWOWITCO.
  • the composition may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. It is possible to use the behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the cationic surfactants which may be present in the composition it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethyl-ammonium, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cationic surfactants in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, better still from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen from carboxylic anionic surfactants, sulphated anionic surfactants, sulphonate surfactants, phosphate anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, preferably from sulphonate anionic surfactants, carboxylic anionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups.
  • an entity is qualified as being “anionic” when it possesses at least a permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
  • sulphated anionic surfactant an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and possibly also comprising one or more other functions derived from acids, such as acid functions carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), sulphonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3) and/or phosphate functions.
  • acids such as acid functions carboxylic or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), sulphonate functions (-SO3H or -SO3) and/or phosphate functions.
  • the alkyl sulphates, the alkyl ether sulphates, the alkylamido ether sulphates, the alkylaryl polyether sulphates, the monoglyceride-sulphates, as well as the salts of these compounds are sulphated anionic surfactants.
  • alkyl groups of these compounds mentioned by way of example contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds cited by way of example can be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • anionic surfactants of alkyl sulphate type mention may be made of alkyl sulphate salts and mixtures thereof, in particular in the form of alkali metal (N or K) or alkaline-earth metal (for example Mg) or ammonium, amine or amino alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the sulfated anionic surfactant may be sodium cocosulfate which is the sodium salt of the sulfate ester of coconut alcohol which generally has the formula: ROS03Na, where R represents the alkyl groups derived from coconut oil.
  • the INCI name is sodium cocosulfate.
  • a preferred sodium cocosulphate according to the present invention is that marketed by Rhodia under the name MACKOLTM CAS-100N.
  • non-sulphated anionic surfactant means a surfactant which does not fall within the definition of "sulphated anionic surfactant” as defined above.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), but do not comprise a sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), nor a sulphate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 );
  • the sulphonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO) and/or phosphates, but do not comprise sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
  • - phosphate anionic surfactants include at least one phosphoric or phosphate function (-OPO 3 H 2 or -OPO 3 2 ), but do not include a carboxylic function or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO), nor a sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), nor a sulphate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ).
  • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphate function (-OSO3H or
  • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphate function (-OSO3H or
  • an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ), is considered, within the meaning of invention and unless otherwise specified, as a non-sulfated sulfonate anionic surfactant; an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulphate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 ), and at least one sulphonic or sulphonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 ), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (- COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as a sulphated anionic surfactant.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds.
  • the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 8 to 28, more preferentially still from 10 to 24, even better from 12 to 22, carbon atoms.
  • the aryl group preferably designates a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • These compounds may be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycosidecitrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates, and their salts.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen from:
  • acylglutamates in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular sodium or disodium stearoylglutamate or cocoylglutamates, in particular sodium or disodium cocoyl glutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as cocoyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl sarcosinates and in particular sodium lauroyl sarcosinates, palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate ;
  • acyllactylates in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate, (iso)stearoyl lactylates, and in particular (iso)stearoyl lactylated sodium;
  • acylglycinates in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates, such as cocoyl glycinates and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate;
  • alkyl(C6-C30)ethercarboxylic acids in particular alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylic acids
  • the sulphonate anionic surfactants can be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulphonates, alkylarylsulphonates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulphonates, alpha-olefinsulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates, alkylsulphosuccinates, alkylethersulphonates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen from: C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates; C6-C24, especially C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates; (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates; the alpha- olefin sulfonates; and mixtures thereof; and in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or aminoalcohol salts.
  • the anionic surfactants can be chosen from monoesters of C6-C24 alkyl and of polyglycoside-dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside-citrates, alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and alkyl polyglycosidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • polyglycoside-dicarboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside-citrates, alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and alkyl polyglycosidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon
  • anionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions of the present invention is that of the acyllactylates in which the acyl group contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24 alkyl) ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl) (C6-C24 aryl) polyoxyalkylenated ether-carboxylic acids , polyoxyalkylenated (C6-24 alkyl)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic phosphate surfactants are chosen from: C6-C24, in particular C12-C20, alkyl phosphates; C6-C24 alkyl ether phosphates, in particular C12-C20; and their mixtures.
  • the nonionic surfactant is chosen from:
  • alpha-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C40 alkyl chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; non-ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, ethoxylated or polyethoxylated fatty acid esters preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units;
  • sucrose fatty acid esters fatty acid and glycerol esters, fatty acid and sucrose esters or polyesters, fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters;
  • polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters preferably polyoxyethylenated, having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide, including oxyethylenated vegetable oils;
  • amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides;
  • Citrol GMS 40 (INCI: Glyceryl stearate), sold by the company CRODA, or the product Imwitor 960K (INCI: Glyceryl stearate), sold by the company BIESTERFELD, the product Imwitor 372P (INCI: Glyceryl stearate citrate), sold by the company BIESTERFELD, the product Glucate SS (INCI: Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate), sold by the company LUBRIZOL ADVANCED MATERIALS, Inc, stearic plurol (Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate), Natragem E145 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate (and) Aqua), sold by the company CRODA, the product Span 60 (INCI: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company SIGMA ALDRICH.
  • sorbitan esters mention will be made, for example, of the product Span 20.
  • fatty alcohols mention will be made, for example, of the product sold under the name Promulgen D (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20).
  • the nonionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides, which are represented by the following general formula:
  • Ri represents: a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical containing 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or 6 to 12 carbon atoms; or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical contains 6 to 24 carbon atoms, or 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or 6 to 12 carbon atoms,
  • R 2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,
  • -v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
  • alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
  • Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or from 6 to 12 carbon atoms,
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • [0292] - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,
  • - G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
  • the glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of the 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of the 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant, that is to say an alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant where G is glucose.
  • G is glucose.
  • the nonionic surfactant can also be chosen from alkyl(poly)glycosides, preferably alkyl(poly)glucosides, with an HLB greater than or equal to 10, or greater than or equal to 12, or greater than or equal to 14.
  • alkyl(poly)glycosides, preferentially the alkyl(poly)glucosides can also be combined with fatty alcohols.
  • the surfactant can advantageously be chosen from oil-in-water emulsifying systems composed of a cyclodextrin and a water-in-oil emulsifier of natural origin, such as the oil-in-water emulsifying system marketed by Roquette Fromme under the name Beauty by Roquette® DS146.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be chosen from derivatives of secondary, tertiary or quaternary aliphatic amines, in particular surfactants of betaine type; and lecithins, hydrogenated lecithins.
  • the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such that, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • (C8-C20)alkyl betaines for example cocobetaine; sulfobetaines; (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines; (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkyl betaines, for example cocamidopropyl betaine; or (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.
  • surfactants of betaine type it is possible in particular to choose from:
  • lauryl betaine such as for example the product GENAGEN KB® from CLARIANT, or coco-betaine such as for example the product Dehyton AB 30® from BASF or TEGO Betain AB 1214 from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH;
  • N-alkylamido betaines and their derivatives in particular cocamidopropyl betaine (for example LEBON 2000 HG® from SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® from ALBRIGHT AND WILSON), lauramidopropyl betaine (for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® from WITCO), or N - N-di-sodium carboxyethoxyethyl N-cocoylamidoethyl aminoacetate (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate; for example MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® from RHODIA CHIMIE);
  • cocamidopropyl betaine for example LEBON 2000 HG® from SANYO or EMPIGEN BB® from ALBRIGHT AND WILSON
  • lauramidopropyl betaine for example REWOTERIC AMB12P® from WITCO
  • cocoyl amidopropyl hydroxy-sulfobetaine for example CROSULTAIN C-500 from CRODA
  • the composition also comprises a binder.
  • the solid compositions according to the invention comprise at least one binder.
  • binding agent is understood to mean compounds conferring increased cohesion on the cosmetic composition. This cohesion can be adjusted according to the quantity and the chemical affinity of the binding agent with respect to the ingredients of the cosmetic composition.
  • the binder will be chosen from caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as the product Labrafac CC (INCI: capric/caprylic triglicerides) or Cetyl Dimethicone (INCI).
  • caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as the product Labrafac CC (INCI: capric/caprylic triglicerides) or Cetyl Dimethicone (INCI).
  • the binder will be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1 to 15%, preferably from 5 to 12%, by weight relative to the total weight. of composition.
  • the binders will also have emollient properties.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one thickening agent of the fatty phase, that is to say a lipophilic or amphiphilic thickening agent, chosen from fatty alcohols.
  • Lipophilic or amphiphilic viscosing agent means a molecule or macromolecule capable of increasing the viscosity of an oil without substantially changing its physical or chemical properties.
  • Lanette 16 cetyl alcohol
  • Lanette O cetearyl alcohol
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, the fillers having the effect of coloring and/or opacifying the composition and/or of coloring the keratin materials, preferentially the skin, such as pigments, nacres, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral support), and mixtures thereof.
  • at least one dyestuff chosen from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, the fillers having the effect of coloring and/or opacifying the composition and/or of coloring the keratin materials, preferentially the skin, such as pigments, nacres, lakes (water-soluble dyes adsorbed on an inert mineral support), and mixtures thereof.
  • dyestuffs can optionally be surface-treated with an agent hydrophobic such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates/silicone copolymers, lecithins, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, disodium stearoyl glutamate and aluminum acyl glutamate, phytic acid.
  • an agent hydrophobic such as silanes, silicones, fatty acid soaps, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates, acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, mixed C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphates/silicone copolymers, lecithins, carnauba wax, polyethylene, chitosan and optionally acylated amino acids such as la
  • pigments means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, intended to color and/or opacify the cosmetic composition.
  • pigments mention will be made of inorganic or organic, natural or synthetic pigments.
  • examples of pigments are in particular iron, titanium or zinc oxides, as well as composite pigments and goniochromatic, pearlescent, interference, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, without this list being exhaustive.
  • pearls means any colored particles, iridescent or not and which have a color effect by optical interference.
  • titanium mica covered with metal oxide such as iron oxide or titanium oxide.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one filler.
  • fillers are talc, boron nitride, starch, polyamides, silicone resins, silicone elastomer powders and acrylic polymer powders, in particular poly(methyl methacrylate) or styrene acrylate copolymer powders (Sunsphere Powders from Dow).
  • AOS aluminum starch octenylsuccinate
  • SA aluminum starch octenylsuccinate
  • native starches such as a native corn starch such as the product Beauté by Roquette® ST 005 or cyclodextrins such as the product Beauté by Roquette® CD 100.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient.
  • a cosmetic active ingredient or cosmetically active ingredient or cosmetically active substance of an antioxidant agent, an anti-free radical agent, a moisturizing agent, an emollient agent, an antipollution agent, vitamins, minerals.
  • tocopherol for example, the product Covi-ox® T-70 C (INCI: tocopherol), sold by the company BASF, which can be used as an antioxidant.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and in such a way even more preferably, from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise other ingredients provided that they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition.
  • these other ingredients may, for example, preservatives such as sodium benzoate (INCI: Sodium benzoate) such as the product Microcare NB, sold by the company Thor, or postassium sorbate (INCI: Potassium sorbate), such as the product Microcare KS, also sold by the company Thor, pH adjusters such as citric acid, soda or arginine, perfumes, sunscreens, chelating agents, antimicrobial agents such as antimicrobial liquid compositions, for example a antimicrobial liquid composition comprising an essential oil selected from essential oils of species of the genus Cymbopogon such as lemongrass essential oils, and essential oils of West Indian lemongrass, East Indian lemongrass India, an alkyl(poly)glucoside, a gluconic acid and its salt, sodium gluconate.
  • preservatives such as sodium benzoate (INCI: Sodium benzoate) such as the product Microcare NB,
  • sunscreens mention will be made, by way of illustration, of Solaveil XT 300 (INCI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina), from the company CRODA , EUSOLEX 2292 (INCI: ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE) or EUSOLEX T-2000 (INCI: Cl 77891 & ALUMINA & SIMETHICONE) from Merck KGaA.
  • Solaveil XT 300 ICI: Titanium Dioxide (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Alumina
  • EUSOLEX 2292 INCI: ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE
  • EUSOLEX T-2000 INCI: Cl 77891 & ALUMINA & SIMETHICONE
  • the emulsions according to the invention will be prepared with “bio-sourced” ingredients.
  • bio-sourced we mean an ingredient whose dry mass in carbon atoms of renewable origin is at least 50% by weight of the total dry mass of carbon atoms.
  • emulsions according to the invention will be prepared by any technique known to those skilled in the art.
  • the cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of:
  • the cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of:
  • the cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of:
  • the cosmetic composition that is the subject of the present application is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, preferably consisting of:
  • the present invention also relates to a process for shaping hair curls and/or preventing, eliminating or reducing hair stress, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention. on the hair.
  • This application step can optionally be preceded by a hair washing step.
  • the application step can optionally be followed by a laying step, for example a laying time of 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 2 to 5 minutes, then optionally followed by a rinsing step or not. , for example with water, and/or a step of drying.
  • a laying step for example a laying time of 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 2 to 5 minutes
  • a rinsing step or not for example with water, and/or a step of drying.
  • the hair is not rinsed after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.
  • the composition will be applied to the hair for at least 1 hour, and preferably for the day in order to allow styling and definition of the curls.
  • the application step will possibly be followed by a drying step.
  • compositions according to the invention then make it possible to define the curls and shape them, and protect the hair from thermal stress induced by heating appliances or the sun, but also from chemical stress induced by oxidizing products.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition as described above, for shaping hair curls.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to increase the retention of hair curls and/or to maintain and preferentially to increase the longevity of the hold of the curl and/or to maintain and preferentially to increase the longevity of the buckle stiffness.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, for preventing, eliminating or reducing heat stress in the hair.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to prevent, eliminate or reduce the oxidation of the hair induced by thermal stress.
  • % length retention [ Length of the lock before styling - Length of the locked lock at time t ] / [ Length of the lock before styling - Length of the locked lock immediately after drying (tO) ] x 100
  • the length of the lock before styling is the length between the base of the lock and its end, standardized at 26 cm for the locks of our tests.
  • the length of the capped lock at time tO, respectively at time t is the length between the base of the lock and its end just after having placed the capped lock in the controlled-atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a duration t in said enclosure.
  • the total length of the intervals on the styled lock at time tO is the distance between the base of the styled lock and the end of the styled lock (generally 17 cm in our tests on the curled lock).
  • the mean of the intervals at time t0, respectively at time t is the mean of the values of the pitches of each well-formed loop on the styled lock just after having placed the styled lock in the controlled-atmosphere enclosure, respectively after a duration t in said chamber.
  • the locks used for these tests are locks of Caucasian hair standardized to 0.8 g and 25 cm in length (EXTIFF brand “natural cold extensions”). Each lock is shaped into curls and evaluated for curl retention according to the following protocol:
  • Table 3 below lists the measurements of the retention of the length of the loops at 70% RH and 20°C.
  • Table 4 shows the measurements relating to the retention of loop intervals at 70% RH and 20°C.
  • Table 5 presents the measurements relating to the retention of the loops in length and in intervals at 90%RH and 35°C.
  • compositions make it possible to increase the retention of hair curls and make it possible in particular to increase the retention of the length of the curls and/or the retention of the interval of the curls.
  • the retention of a curl in compression is evaluated here according to the “curl compression” measurement protocol of the “MTT175” device from the manufacturer “Dia-Stron Limited”.
  • a standardized lock of dry hair is shaped into a curl on a cylinder with a diameter of 35 mm after having been coated with a styling composition, then rolled up on said cylinder and dried in place for a period of 24 hours.
  • the loop is placed in the device, which subjects it to ten cycles of compression - decompression in a vertical movement, and analyzes the compression forces involved to calculate:
  • the longevity of the compression resistance it is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum force before breakage of the styling product film between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in “%”; the greater the value, the greater the longevity of the outfit,
  • the longevity of the rigidity in compression it is the complement to 100% of the absolute value of the relative variation of the maximum gradient of force before breakage of the film of styling product between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle , expressed in “%”; the larger the value, the greater the longevity of the stiffness.
  • the measurement parameters used are: compression of 15%; 10 cycles; 50mm/min speed; contact force 5 gmf; maximum force 2000 gmf; gauging at each cycle.
  • the Fibra Curl software uses the measurements to provide the values of the compression properties (longevity of hold, longevity of rigidity). A Wilcoxon Rank Sum test was performed to verify statistically significant differences between groups for each parameter. In all cases, a confidence level of 95% (p-value of 0.05) was reached.
  • Locks 18 cm long and 15 mm wide are prepared from “European Virgin ex IHIP” locks of hair.
  • the locks are prepared according to the following protocol:
  • the lock is rinsed under tap water with a shower head with water at 35° C. +/-2° C. at approximately 4 L/min for 30 seconds. Excess water is removed by gently squeezing the strand between two fingers from root to tip three times. 1 mL of a 14% dry matter sodium laureth sulfate solution is applied per 1 gram of damp hair, evenly to each lock. The wick is then manually massaged with a zigzag movement. The wick is then rinsed under tap water at 35°C +/-2°C at approximately 4 L/min for 30 seconds. Excess water is removed by gently pressing the wick between two fingers from root to tip three times. The lock is left to dry overnight in an air-conditioned room at 20°C.
  • the lock in the form of a loop is placed in the MTT175 device configured for the compression of the loops according to the manufacturer's recommendations.
  • the automated measurement is launched according to the parameters presented above.
  • the styling compositions evaluated separately are gels prepared according to the compositions in Table 11.
  • the longevity of the bending stiffness is the complement to 100% of the relative variation of the maximum force gradient before film breakage between the tenth cycle and the first cycle compared to the first cycle, expressed in "%"; the larger the value, the greater the longevity of the stiffness.
  • the measurement parameters used for the maximum strength and the maximum bending stiffness are: maximum deflection; 1 cycle; 50mm/min speed; contact force 5 gmf; maximum force 2000 gmf.
  • the measurement parameters used for the longevity of the behavior and of the rigidity in bending are: deflection to be determined; 10 cycles; 50mm/min speed; contact force 5 gmf; maximum force 2000 gmf; gauging at each cycle.
  • the locks of hair are identical to those used in example 2, and are prepared in the form of flat strips in the same way as in example 2, following the protocol for washing and applying the product, at the difference that the final shaping step is done by laying the wicks flat on a plate.
  • the styling compositions evaluated separately are prepared according to the compositions of Table 13. They are in the form of gels.
  • the styling composition with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 provides a lower value than the placebo composition: this means that the Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 allows styling with a lower rigidity than the placebo composition. placebo, therefore a more flexible formatting than the placebo, therefore a reduced "cardboard" effect compared to the placebo.
  • the styling composition with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 provides a percentage change value closer to zero, and lower in absolute value than the placebo: this reflects that the Beauté by Roquette ® ST 720 allows shaping with better resistance/resistance to bending, ie better resistance to mechanical stress.
  • the styling composition with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch provides a percentage change value almost equal to the placebo: this reflects the Beauté by Roquette® pea starch ST 720 allows a rigidity of longevity equivalent to the placebo, therefore an equivalent rigidity of resistance to bending.
  • compositions according to the invention also make it possible to increase the maximum bending strength, to reduce the maximum bending stiffness, to increase the longevity of the bending strength of a buckle and to increase the longevity of the bending stiffness of a buckle.
  • the thermal protection property of hair by Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch is evaluated here through an ex-vivo test for quantifying the oxidation of hair proteins under the action of heat.
  • the quantification of the oxidation is made by microscopic epi-fluorescence associated with a densitometric analysis of the images.
  • the quantifications are made according to two views: the longitudinal view (ie view of the hair in its length), and the sagittal view (ie view of the section of the hair after cutting).
  • the longitudinal view makes it possible to quantify the oxidation on the surface of the hair over a portion of its length.
  • the sagittal view makes it possible to quantify the oxidation in two parts of the hair: the cuticle (ie the thin outer layer) and the cortex (ie the body of the hair).
  • Table 16 shows the results relating to oxidation protection.
  • [0335] The sagittal view of hair treated with Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch and subjected to heating shows that protein oxidation is significantly lower than for the positive control. This reduction in protein oxidation is measured both in the cuticle and in the cortex. Beauté by Roquette® ST 720 pea starch therefore protects the hair from heat-induced oxidation.
  • the legume starch advantageously makes it possible to protect the hair from stress and therefore to prevent and reduce hair stress.

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EP22712253.8A 2021-03-25 2022-03-17 Haarstyling- und haarpflegezusammensetzungen mit stärke aus leguminosenpflanzen Pending EP4312950A2 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR2103042A FR3121045B1 (fr) 2021-03-25 2021-03-25 compositions pour le coiffage et le soin des cheveux comportant un amidon de légumineuse
PCT/EP2022/025111 WO2022199889A2 (fr) 2021-03-25 2022-03-17 Compositions pour le coiffage et le soin des cheveux comportant un amidon de legumineuse

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US (1) US20240165009A1 (de)
EP (1) EP4312950A2 (de)
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BR (1) BR112023019677A2 (de)
FR (1) FR3121045B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2022199889A2 (de)

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EP4620982A1 (de) 2024-03-20 2025-09-24 Roquette Freres Vorgelatinierte hydrophil modifizierte leguminosenstärke mit erhöhter hydrophobie und ihre verwendung als wasserfester filmbildner

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GB1567947A (en) 1976-07-02 1980-05-21 Unilever Ltd Esters of quaternised amino-alcohols for treating fabrics
DE3623215A1 (de) 1986-07-10 1988-01-21 Henkel Kgaa Neue quartaere ammoniumverbindungen und deren verwendung
FR2903017B1 (fr) * 2006-06-30 2010-08-13 Oreal Compositions cosmetiques contenant un amidon et un diester gras de peg et leurs utilisations
US20110097278A1 (en) * 2007-12-14 2011-04-28 Alberto-Culver Company Hair styling compositions and methods of use
WO2011048172A2 (de) * 2009-10-22 2011-04-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel für keratinhaltige fasern, enthaltend mindestens eine nichtionische, mittels propylenoxid modifizierte stärke und mindestens ein zusätzliches filmbildendes kationisches und/oder festigendes polymer
CN108025192B (zh) * 2015-09-08 2022-03-11 诺赛尔股份有限公司 成膜组合物
CA2915328A1 (en) * 2015-11-10 2017-05-10 Niucoco Inc. Hair-conditioning mask
FR3054439A1 (fr) * 2016-07-26 2018-02-02 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Substances actives pour agents de mise en forme
DE102017222851B4 (de) * 2017-12-15 2023-10-26 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetische Mittel zur temporären Umformung keratinhaltiger Fasern mit Filmbildner
FR3094223B1 (fr) * 2019-03-29 2023-01-20 Roquette Freres Utilisation cosmétique d’amidon riche en amylose comme agent filmogène à effets barrière et fixateur

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CN117042743A (zh) 2023-11-10
FR3121045A1 (fr) 2022-09-30
US20240165009A1 (en) 2024-05-23
WO2022199889A2 (fr) 2022-09-29
FR3121045B1 (fr) 2024-07-05
WO2022199889A3 (fr) 2022-12-01

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