EP4266943A1 - Method for curling hair - Google Patents

Method for curling hair

Info

Publication number
EP4266943A1
EP4266943A1 EP21848005.1A EP21848005A EP4266943A1 EP 4266943 A1 EP4266943 A1 EP 4266943A1 EP 21848005 A EP21848005 A EP 21848005A EP 4266943 A1 EP4266943 A1 EP 4266943A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
mandrel
hair
lock
winding
around
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21848005.1A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Laura SABATIER
Thomas GUILLOUET
Franck Mandica
Denis Paccaud
Fatma BRIKI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
SEB SA
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique CNRS
Universite Paris Saclay
Original Assignee
SEB SA
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique CNRS
Universite Paris Saclay
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by SEB SA, Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique CNRS, Universite Paris Saclay filed Critical SEB SA
Publication of EP4266943A1 publication Critical patent/EP4266943A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D1/00—Curling-tongs, i.e. tongs for use when hot; Curling-irons, i.e. irons for use when hot; Accessories therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2/00—Hair-curling or hair-waving appliances ; Appliances for hair dressing treatment not otherwise provided for
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D7/00—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair
    • A45D7/02—Processes of waving, straightening or curling hair thermal

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for curling hair, and more particularly to a process for thermo-mechanical curling of hair.
  • thermo-mechanical curling of hair comprises, in a known manner, the following steps:
  • a hairdressing device comprising a mandrel which is heated and which has a radius of winding of a lock of hair greater than 10 mm, for example approximately 12.5 mm,
  • a high winding stress on the lock of hair in particular greater than 20 MPa, and for example of approximately 30 MPa, induces a degradation of the internal structure of the hair, in particular of the hair fiber. hair.
  • the present invention aims to remedy all or part of these drawbacks.
  • the technical problem underlying the invention consists in particular in providing a process for curling hair which makes it possible to obtain curls having a high remanence, while limiting the risks of degradation of the hair.
  • the present invention relates to a process for curling hair, advantageously a process for thermo-mechanical curling of hair, comprising the following steps:
  • a hairdressing device comprising a mandrel which is heated and which has a radius of winding of a lock of hair of between 2.5 and 7.5 mm, for example between 4 and 6 mm and advantageously of 5mm order,
  • mandrel which is heated designates various types of mandrel well known to those skilled in the art. Thus, it covers in particular a directly heating mandrel, that is to say a mandrel which can itself provide heat, for example by comprising a heating element, such as an electrical resistor for example; in other words the heat is internal to the chuck.
  • This expression also covers an indirectly heated chuck, that is to say a chuck which will release the heat it has accumulated, for example after being placed in a hot environment, or by receiving heat from the outside, for example by receiving a flow of hot air.
  • mandrel is meant any shape, preferably cylindrical, serving as a support for rolling up an element, in this case hair.
  • the mandrel may have a round, oval, multi-lobed (cloverleaf-shaped) section, etc.
  • the applicant has found surprisingly that the winding of a lock of hair around a mandrel having a small winding radius, and therefore of small diameter, with a low winding stress makes it possible to obtain curls having a persistence greater than that obtained with the hair curling methods of the prior art.
  • the curling process according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain curls that hold over time, while substantially reducing the internal degradation of the hair due to the fact that the latter undergo only very low winding stresses during the winding step.
  • the hair curling method may additionally have one or more of the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination.
  • the mandrel has a mandrel diameter of between 5 and 15 mm, for example between 8 and 12 mm and advantageously of the order of 10 mm.
  • the winding step and the application step are carried out simultaneously.
  • the curling method further comprises heating the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel to a heating temperature of between 110 and 150° C., and preferably lower than 144°C which corresponds to the glass transition temperature of a hair.
  • the heating temperature may for example be between 120 and 140°C and advantageously be of the order of 130°C. It was previously accepted in the prior art that it was necessary to heat a lock of hair wrapped around a mandrel at a high temperature, in particular of the order of 200° C., to obtain loops having a high remanence. However, the applicant has surprisingly found that heating a lock of hair, which is wound around a mandrel, to a temperature of between 110 and 150° C. is sufficient to obtain curls having a high persistence. These provisions therefore make it possible to further limit the risks of degradation of the hair wound around the mandrel.
  • the winding step consists of manually or automatically winding the lock of hair around the mandrel.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a gripping body configured to allow a user to be able to manipulate the hairdressing appliance.
  • the mandrel is configured to be coupled in rotation to the gripping body, that is to say is integral in rotation with the gripping body, and the winding step consists in rotating the gripping body about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an axis of extension of the mandrel so as to manually wind the lock of hair around the mandrel.
  • the chuck is fixedly mounted on the gripping body.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a drive motor configured to drive the mandrel in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an axis of extension of the mandrel, and the winding step consists of driving the mandrel in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a winder mounted rotatably around the mandrel and a drive motor configured to drive the winder in rotation around the mandrel, and the winding step consists in driving the winder in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a housing which is fixed to the gripping body and which contains the winder and the mandrel.
  • the housing comprises a facial opening provided at a free end of the housing which is located opposite the gripping body, and a first side opening and a second side opening which are each extend from the facial aperture toward the grip body.
  • the housing and the winder at least partially delimit an outer chamber configured to accommodate the lock of hair before it is shaped, and the mandrel and the winder at least partially delimit a internal chamber configured to accommodate the lock of hair after it has been shaped.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a hair immobilizing device which is arranged at a distal end of the mandrel.
  • the hair immobilization device may for example comprise a plurality of barbs projecting from the distal end of the mandrel.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a coupling member, such as a clutch, which is movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the chuck or the reel, and an uncoupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically uncoupled from the chuck or the reel, the coupling member being configured to occupy the coupling position when the constraint winding stress applied to the lock of hair that is wrapped around the mandrel is less than 0.25 MPa, and to be moved to the uncoupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair that is wrapped around the mandrel reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
  • a coupling member such as a clutch
  • the coupling member is configured to occupy the coupling position as long as a winding torque applied to the mandrel or the winder, for example by a user via the gripping body or by the driving motor, during the winding step remains lower than a predetermined value, and to be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding torque applied to the mandrel or the winder during the step winding becomes greater than or equal to the predetermined value.
  • the coupling member is mechanically interposed between the gripping body and the chuck, or between an output shaft of the drive motor and the chuck, or even between the drive motor output shaft and winder.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a stress sensor which is configured to determine the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel, and a control unit which is configured to move the coupling member into the uncoupling position when the winding strain determined by the strain sensor reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
  • the hairdressing device comprises a retaining member which is mounted to move between a first operating position in which the retaining member is remote from the mandrel so as to allow positioning of a lock of hair between the mandrel and the retainer, and a second operating position in which the retainer is configured to bear against the mandrel so as to allow the lock of hair to be pinched between the mandrel and the retainer.
  • the hairdressing appliance comprises a heating element which is integrated into the mandrel and which is configured to heat the mandrel.
  • Figure 1 is a diagram representing the steps of a hair curling process according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a hairdressing device that can be used in the context of the method for curling hair according to the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a cutaway perspective view of another hairdressing device that can be used in the context of the method of curling hair according to the present invention.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic representation of a sectional view of a lock of hair at the start of its winding around a mandrel according to the curling method of the invention.
  • Figure 5 is a schematic representation of a sectional view of a lock of hair at the end of its winding around a mandrel according to the curling method of the invention.
  • the present invention relates to a process for the thermo-mechanical curling of hair comprising in particular a supply step SI consisting in supplying a hairdressing appliance.
  • FIG. 2 shows an embodiment of a hairdressing appliance 1 that can be provided in the supply step SI.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 comprises a gripping body 2, such as a gripping handle or a gripping handle, which is configured to allow a user to manipulate the hairdressing appliance 1 during its use.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 further comprises a mandrel 3 which extends the gripping body 2 along a longitudinal axis A.
  • the mandrel 3 has a winding radius r of a lock of hair X of between 2.5 and 7, 5 mm, for example between 4 and 6 mm and advantageously of the order of 5 mm.
  • the mandrel 3 can for example be cylindrical and have a mandrel diameter of between 5 and 15 mm, for example between 8 and 12 mm and advantageously of the order of 10 mm.
  • the mandrel 3 is coupled in rotation to the gripping body 2, that is to say that the mandrel 3 is for example mounted fixed on the gripping body 2.
  • the gripping body 2 includes an inlet 200 for a power cord, for example an electric cord.
  • the inlet 200 advantageously constitutes the reference point with respect to which the distal and proximal expressions refer: thus the expression “proximal end” refers to an end located on the side of the inlet 200 while on the contrary, the expression “distal end” refers to an end located opposite the inlet 200.
  • the hairdressing device 1 further comprises a retaining member 4, such as a retaining tile, which is mounted so as to move relative to the gripping body 2 between a first operating position in which the retaining member 4 is moved away of the mandrel 3 so as to allow positioning of a lock of hair X between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4, and a second operating position in which the retaining member 4 is configured to bear against the mandrel 3 so as to allow the lock of hair to be pinched between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4.
  • a retaining member 4 such as a retaining tile
  • the retainer 4 has a globally arcuate shape which is adapted (that is to say of complementary shape) to that of the mandrel 3.
  • the proximal end 5 of the retainer 4 is fixed to a manipulation finger 6 which is mounted articulated with respect to the distal end 7 of the gripping body 2. Pressure on the rear part 8 of the manipulation finger 6 makes it possible to move the retaining member 4 towards the first operating position, to allow the introduction of a lock of hair between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4.
  • the distal end 11 of the retaining member 4 is located substantially opposite a distal end portion 12 of the mandrel 3.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 further comprises a heating element 13, such as an electrical resistance, which is integrated into the mandrel 3 and which is configured to heat the mandrel 3, and a control unit 14 which is configured to regulate the heating temperature of the heating element 13.
  • a heating element 13 such as an electrical resistance
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 could be devoid of a heating element, and be configured to restore the heat that it has accumulated, by for example after being placed in a hot environment, or to receive heat from the outside, for example from a flow of hot air.
  • the curling method according to the present invention further comprises a winding step S2 consisting in winding a lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
  • such a winding step S2 comprises in particular:
  • a positioning step consisting in positioning a lock of hair between the retaining member 4 and the mandrel 3,
  • a rotary drive step consisting in driving the gripping body 2 in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel, and for example coincident, with the longitudinal axis A so as to manually roll up the lock of hair around the chuck 3.
  • the apparatus for hairstyle 1 could comprise a drive motor configured to drive the mandrel 3 in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to, and for example coincident with, the longitudinal axis A, and the rotational drive step would then consist in driving the mandrel 3 in rotation around the axis of rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
  • the mandrel 3 would then be mounted in pivot connection with respect to the gripping body 2, around the longitudinal axis A.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 supplied in the supply step SI could include, instead of the retaining member 4, a winder which is hollow and mounted rotatable around the mandrel 3, and furthermore a drive motor configured to drive the winder in rotation around an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel, and for example coinciding, with the longitudinal axis A, and the step drive in rotation would then consist in driving the winder in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
  • FIG. 3 represents a hairdressing appliance 1 according to this embodiment of the method of curling hair and which can be supplied in the supply step SI.
  • the hairdressing device 1 represented in FIG. 3 comprises a casing 11 which is fixed to the gripping body 2 and which is hollow.
  • the housing 11 comprises a free end 12 intended to be oriented substantially perpendicularly with the head of the user, and more particularly with his scalp, at the time of the curling operation.
  • the housing 11 contains the mandrel 3, and forms in its interior a winding chamber 13 intended to accommodate the lock of hair, before its shaping, in an external chamber 131, then after its shaping, in an internal chamber 132.
  • the housing 11 includes a face opening 14 made at the free end 12 of the housing 11, and also a first side opening 15 and a second side opening 16 which each extend from the face opening 14 in the direction of the body of grip 2.
  • the first side opening 15 is designed to accommodate the lock of hair, in particular when the free end 12 is placed substantially perpendicular to the head of the user.
  • the second side opening 16 is advantageously in the form of an inverted T notch from the free end 12. The particular shape of the second side opening 16 allows, when the lock of hair is placed in the "small bar" of the T, to maintain the lock of hair at the bottom of the second lateral opening 16, and to optimize the guidance of the latter during its winding.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 represented in FIG. 3 further comprises a winder 17 which is mounted so as to be able to rotate with respect to the mandrel 3 and which is configured to wind a lock of hair around the mandrel 3 during the rotation of the winder
  • the reel 17 in a predetermined direction.
  • the reel 17 is arranged in the housing 11.
  • the winder 17 is hollow and has a shape of revolution.
  • the winder 17 is positioned coaxially around the mandrel 3.
  • the winder 17 has a first longitudinal end 171 which is secured to a toothed wheel 18. This toothed wheel
  • the winder 17 preferably has a conical shape which expands in the direction of the distal end of the mandrel 3.
  • the winder 17 could however have a surface of revolution of cylindrical rather than conical shape.
  • the retractor 17 comprises a notch 172, or cutout, which extends over its surface of revolution and which opens onto a free edge 173 at a second longitudinal end 174 of said retractor 17.
  • Two hooks 175 are arranged opposite in the extension of the free edge 173, at the two ends of the notch 172.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 represented in FIG. 3 also comprises a hair immobilizing device 22 arranged at the distal end of the mandrel 3.
  • This hair immobilizing device 22 comprises a plurality of pins 221 projecting at the distal end of the mandrel 3.
  • This hair immobilization device 22 makes it possible to guide the lock of hair during its winding so as to prevent the lock from rotating around the distal end of the mandrel 3.
  • this hair immobilization device 22 allows the release of the curly lock without damaging it.
  • the retractor 17 When the retractor 17 is driven in rotation, the latter carries the lock of hair which remains guided on one of the pins 221 of the hair immobilizer 22, forcing it to wrap around the mandrel. 3.
  • the direction of the loops made therefore depends on the direction of rotation of the winder 17. One could however provide a single direction of looping without departing from the scope of the invention.
  • the hairdressing device 1 is an automatic hairdressing device for automatically winding a lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
  • the user does not have to wrap the lock of hair around the mandrel 3 himself: he just has to activate a switch and the hairdressing device 1 goes automatically, thanks to the winder 17, wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
  • the curling method according to the present invention also comprises a heating step S3 consisting in heating the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel 3 to a heating temperature of between 110 and 150° C., for example between 120 and 140° C. and advantageously of the order of 130°C.
  • the curling process according to the present invention further comprises an application step S4 consisting in applying a winding stress of less than or equal to 0.25 MPa on the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 provided in the supply step SI further comprises a coupling member, for example mechanically interposed between the gripping body 2 and the mandrel 3 or between the chuck 3 and an output shaft of the aforementioned drive motor, movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the chuck 3, and an uncoupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically uncoupled from the mandrel 3, the coupling member being configured to occupy the coupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 is less than 0.25 MPa, and for be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
  • a coupling member for example mechanically interposed between the gripping body 2 and the mandrel 3 or between the chuck 3 and an output shaft of the aforementioned drive motor, movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the
  • the coupling member is mechanically interposed between the drive motor and the reel.
  • Such a configuration of the coupling member makes it possible to no longer be able to transmit a rotational torque to the mandrel 3 when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa, and therefore to limit the degradation of the hair during the winding step.
  • a movement of the coupling member between the coupling and uncoupling positions could for example be controlled mechanically.
  • the coupling member could be configured to occupy the coupling position as long as a winding torque applied to the mandrel 3, for example by a user via the gripping body 2 or by the motor of drive if the hairdressing appliance is motorized, during the winding step remains below a predetermined value, and to be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding torque applied to the mandrel 3 during the winding step reaches or exceeds the predetermined value.
  • Movement of the coupling member between the coupling and uncoupling positions could also be controlled electrically or electronically.
  • the hairdressing appliance 1 could include a stress sensor configured to determine the winding stress applied to the strand of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel 3, and the control unit 14 could be configured to control a movement of the coupling member into the uncoupling position when the winding stress determined by the stress sensor reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
  • Hair curling methods were applied to test hair strands formed from real human hair.
  • Hair curling methods differ in particular in the curling parameters used, such as the heating temperature applied during the heating step, the mandrel diameter of the mandrel used during the winding step and the stress of winding applied during the application step.
  • a first table showing the variation of a curvature index, also called Curl Index, as a function of the heating temperature and the mandrel diameter is reproduced below.
  • the results mentioned in the first table were obtained by applying a winding stress of 0.25 MPa during the application step.
  • the curvature index corresponds to a ratio of the length of a lock of hair at rest after curling to the length of said lock of hair before curling in the extended state.
  • the lock of hair is manually extended without extension.
  • curvature index value mentioned in Table 2 corresponds to an average of several “curvature index” values obtained by applying the same curling process to at least five identical test locks of hair. The measurements were carried out 3 hours after the completion of the looping process according to the invention. It appears from Table 2 reproduced above that, contrary to an existing prejudice, a high heating temperature, for example of the order of 200° C., has very little influence on the curvature index. , and therefore on the remanence of a lock of hair.

Abstract

The method of curling hair includes providing a hair styling apparatus (1) comprising a mandrel (3) that generates heat and has a winding radius of between 2.5 and 7.5 mm, winding a lock of hair (X) around the mandrel (3), and applying a winding stress less than or equal to 0.25 MPa to the lock of hair (X) thus wound around the mandrel (3).

Description

DESCRIPTION DESCRIPTION
TITRE : Procédé de bouclage de cheveux TITLE: Hair curling process
Domaine technique Technical area
La présente invention concerne un procédé de bouclage de cheveux, et plus particulièrement un procédé de bouclage thermo-mécanique de cheveux. The present invention relates to a process for curling hair, and more particularly to a process for thermo-mechanical curling of hair.
Etat de la technique State of the art
Un procédé de bouclage thermo-mécanique de cheveux comprend de façon connue les étapes suivantes : A process for the thermo-mechanical curling of hair comprises, in a known manner, the following steps:
- fourniture d'un appareil de coiffure comprenant un mandrin qui est chauffant et qui présente un rayon d'enroulement d'une mèche de cheveux supérieur à 10 mm, par exemple d'environ 12,5 mm, - supply of a hairdressing device comprising a mandrel which is heated and which has a radius of winding of a lock of hair greater than 10 mm, for example approximately 12.5 mm,
- enroulement d'une mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin, - winding a lock of hair around the mandrel,
- chauffage de la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin à une température de chauffage comprise entre 170 et 230°C, par exemple d'environ 200°C,- heating the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel to a heating temperature of between 170 and 230° C., for example around 200° C.,
- application d'une contrainte d'enroulement élevée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin. - application of a high winding stress on the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel.
L'utilisation d'un mandrin présentant un rayon d'enroulement élevé permet d'obtenir des boucles esthétiques. The use of a mandrel with a high winding radius makes it possible to obtain aesthetic curls.
Toutefois, l'application d'une contrainte d'enroulement élevée sur la mèche de cheveux, notamment supérieure à 20 MPa, et par exemple d'environ 30 MPa, induit une dégradation de la structure interne des cheveux, en particulier de la fibre capillaire des cheveux. However, the application of a high winding stress on the lock of hair, in particular greater than 20 MPa, and for example of approximately 30 MPa, induces a degradation of the internal structure of the hair, in particular of the hair fiber. hair.
De plus, un chauffage des cheveux enroulés autour du mandrin à une température de chauffage comprise entre 170 et 230°C provoque également un endommagement des cheveux, en particulier lorsque cette température est associée à la contrainte d'enroulement précédente. Enfin, la rémanence des boucles obtenues avec un tel procédé de bouclage, c'est-à-dire leur durabilité dans le temps, s'avère insuffisante. In addition, heating the hair wrapped around the mandrel to a heating temperature between 170 and 230°C also causes damage to the hair, especially when this temperature is combined with the previous winding stress. Finally, the remanence of the loops obtained with such a looping process, that is to say their durability over time, proves to be insufficient.
Résumé de l'invention Summary of the invention
La présente invention vise à remédier à tout ou partie de ces inconvénients. The present invention aims to remedy all or part of these drawbacks.
Le problème technique à la base de l'invention consiste notamment à fournir un procédé de bouclage de cheveux qui permette d'obtenir des boucles ayant une rémanence élevée, tout en limitant les risques de dégradation des cheveux. The technical problem underlying the invention consists in particular in providing a process for curling hair which makes it possible to obtain curls having a high remanence, while limiting the risks of degradation of the hair.
A cet effet, la présente invention concerne un procédé de bouclage de cheveux, avantageusement un procédé de bouclage thermo-mécanique de cheveux, comprenant les étapes suivantes : To this end, the present invention relates to a process for curling hair, advantageously a process for thermo-mechanical curling of hair, comprising the following steps:
- fourniture d'un appareil de coiffure comprenant un mandrin qui est chauffant et qui présente un rayon d'enroulement d'une mèche de cheveux compris entre 2,5 et 7,5 mm, par exemple entre 4 et 6 mm et avantageusement de l'ordre de 5 mm,- supply of a hairdressing device comprising a mandrel which is heated and which has a radius of winding of a lock of hair of between 2.5 and 7.5 mm, for example between 4 and 6 mm and advantageously of 5mm order,
- enroulement d'une mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin, et - winding a lock of hair around the mandrel, and
- application d'une contrainte d'enroulement inférieure ou égale à 0,25 MPa sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin. - application of a winding stress of less than or equal to 0.25 MPa on the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel.
L'expression « mandrin qui est chauffant » désigne différents types de mandrin bien connus de l'homme du métier. Ainsi, elle couvre notamment un mandrin chauffant directement, c'est-à-dire un mandrin qui peut fournir lui-même de la chaleur, par exemple en comprenant un élément chauffant, tel qu'une résistance électrique par exemple ; en d'autrestermes la chaleur est interne au mandrin. Cette expression couvre également un mandrin chauffant indirectement, c'est-à-dire un mandrin qui va restituer de la chaleur qu'il a accumulée, par exemple après avoir été placé dans un environnement chaud, ou bien en recevant de la chaleur depuis l'extérieur, par exemple en recevant un flux d'air chaud. The expression “mandrel which is heated” designates various types of mandrel well known to those skilled in the art. Thus, it covers in particular a directly heating mandrel, that is to say a mandrel which can itself provide heat, for example by comprising a heating element, such as an electrical resistor for example; in other words the heat is internal to the chuck. This expression also covers an indirectly heated chuck, that is to say a chuck which will release the heat it has accumulated, for example after being placed in a hot environment, or by receiving heat from the outside, for example by receiving a flow of hot air.
Par mandrin, on entend n'importe quelle forme, préférentiellement cylindrique, servant de support pour enrouler un élément, en l'occurrence des cheveux. Par exemple, de manière illustrative et non limitative, le mandrin peut présenter une section de forme ronde, ovale, multi lobée (en forme de trèfle), etc. By mandrel is meant any shape, preferably cylindrical, serving as a support for rolling up an element, in this case hair. By example, by way of illustration and not limitation, the mandrel may have a round, oval, multi-lobed (cloverleaf-shaped) section, etc.
Il était préalablement admis de l'art antérieur qu'il était nécessaire d'appliquer une contrainte d'enroulement élevée sur une mèche de cheveux enroulée autour d'un mandrin pour obtenir des boucles ayant une rémanence élevée. It was previously accepted in the prior art that it was necessary to apply a high winding stress to a lock of hair wound around a mandrel in order to obtain curls having a high persistence.
Or, la demanderesse a constaté de manière surprenante que l'enroulement d'une mèche de cheveux autour d'un mandrin présentant un faible rayon d'enroulement, et donc de faible diamètre, avec une faible contrainte d'enroulement permet d'obtenir des boucles ayant une rémanence supérieure à celle obtenue avec les procédés de bouclage de cheveux de l'art antérieur. However, the applicant has found surprisingly that the winding of a lock of hair around a mandrel having a small winding radius, and therefore of small diameter, with a low winding stress makes it possible to obtain curls having a persistence greater than that obtained with the hair curling methods of the prior art.
Ainsi, le procédé de bouclage selon la présente invention permet d'obtenir des boucles qui tiennent dans le temps, tout en réduisant sensiblement la dégradation interne des cheveux du fait que ces derniers ne subissent que de très faibles contraintes d'enroulement lors de l'étape d'enroulement. Thus, the curling process according to the present invention makes it possible to obtain curls that hold over time, while substantially reducing the internal degradation of the hair due to the fact that the latter undergo only very low winding stresses during the winding step.
Le procédé de bouclage de cheveux peut en outre présenter une ou plusieurs des caractéristiques suivantes, prises seules ou en combinaison. The hair curling method may additionally have one or more of the following characteristics, taken alone or in combination.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, le mandrin présente un diamètre de mandrin compris entre 5 et 15 mm, par exemple entre 8 et 12 mm et avantageusement de l'ordre de 10 mm. According to one embodiment of the invention, the mandrel has a mandrel diameter of between 5 and 15 mm, for example between 8 and 12 mm and advantageously of the order of 10 mm.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'étape d'enroulement et l'étape d'application sont réalisées simultanément. According to one embodiment of the invention, the winding step and the application step are carried out simultaneously.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, le procédé de bouclage comprend en outre un chauffage de la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin à une température de chauffage comprise entre 110 et 150°C, et de préférence inférieure à 144°C qui correspond à la température de transition vitreuse d'un cheveu. La température de chauffage peut par exemple être comprise entre 120 et 140°C et être avantageusement de l'ordre de 130°C. Il était préalablement admis de l'art antérieur qu'il était nécessaire de chauffer une mèche de cheveux enroulée autour d'un mandrin à une température élevée, en particulier de l'ordre de 200°C, pour obtenir des boucles ayant une rémanence élevée. La demanderesse a toutefois constaté de façon surprenante qu'un chauffage d'une mèche de cheveux, qui est enroulée autour d'un mandrin, à une température comprise entre 110 et 150°C est suffisant pour obtenir des boucles ayant une rémanence élevée. Ces dispositions permettent donc de limiter encore les risques de dégradation des cheveux enroulés autour du mandrin. According to one embodiment of the invention, the curling method further comprises heating the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel to a heating temperature of between 110 and 150° C., and preferably lower than 144°C which corresponds to the glass transition temperature of a hair. The heating temperature may for example be between 120 and 140°C and advantageously be of the order of 130°C. It was previously accepted in the prior art that it was necessary to heat a lock of hair wrapped around a mandrel at a high temperature, in particular of the order of 200° C., to obtain loops having a high remanence. However, the applicant has surprisingly found that heating a lock of hair, which is wound around a mandrel, to a temperature of between 110 and 150° C. is sufficient to obtain curls having a high persistence. These provisions therefore make it possible to further limit the risks of degradation of the hair wound around the mandrel.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'étape d'enroulement consiste à enrouler manuellement ou automatiquement la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin.According to one embodiment of the invention, the winding step consists of manually or automatically winding the lock of hair around the mandrel.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention l'appareil de coiffure comporte un corps de préhension configuré pour permettre à un utilisateur de pourvoir manipuler l'appareil de coiffure. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a gripping body configured to allow a user to be able to manipulate the hairdressing appliance.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, le mandrin est configuré pour être couplé en rotation au corps de préhension, c'est-à-dire est solidaire en rotation du corps de préhension, et l'étape d'enroulement consiste à entraîner en rotation le corps de préhension autour d'un axe de rotation qui est sensiblement parallèle à un axe d'extension du mandrin de manière à enrouler manuellement la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin. De façon avantageuse, le mandrin est monté fixe sur le corps de préhension. According to one embodiment of the invention, the mandrel is configured to be coupled in rotation to the gripping body, that is to say is integral in rotation with the gripping body, and the winding step consists in rotating the gripping body about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an axis of extension of the mandrel so as to manually wind the lock of hair around the mandrel. Advantageously, the chuck is fixedly mounted on the gripping body.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un moteur d'entraînement configuré pour entraîner en rotation le mandrin autour d'un axe de rotation qui est sensiblement parallèle à un axe d'extension du mandrin, et l'étape d'enroulement consiste à entraîner en rotation le mandrin de manière à enrouler automatiquement la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a drive motor configured to drive the mandrel in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an axis of extension of the mandrel, and the winding step consists of driving the mandrel in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un enrouleur monté rotatif autour du mandrin et un moteur d'entraînement configuré pour entraîner en rotation l'enrouleur autour du mandrin, et l'étape d'enroulement consiste à entraîner en rotation l'enrouleur de manière à enrouler automatiquement la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin. Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un boîtier qui est fixé au corps de préhension et qui contient l'enrouleur et le mandrin.According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a winder mounted rotatably around the mandrel and a drive motor configured to drive the winder in rotation around the mandrel, and the winding step consists in driving the winder in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a housing which is fixed to the gripping body and which contains the winder and the mandrel.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, le boîtier comporte une ouverture faciale prévue à une extrémité libre du boîtier qui est située à l'opposé du corps de préhension, et une première ouverture latérale et une deuxième ouverture latérale qui s'étendent chacune depuis l'ouverture faciale en direction du corps de préhension.According to one embodiment of the invention, the housing comprises a facial opening provided at a free end of the housing which is located opposite the gripping body, and a first side opening and a second side opening which are each extend from the facial aperture toward the grip body.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, le boîtier et l'enrouleur délimitent au moins partiellement une chambre externe configurée pour accueillir la mèche de cheveux avant sa mise en forme, et le mandrin et l'enrouleur délimitent au moins partiellement une chambre interne configurée pour accueillir la mèche de cheveux après sa mise en forme. According to one embodiment of the invention, the housing and the winder at least partially delimit an outer chamber configured to accommodate the lock of hair before it is shaped, and the mandrel and the winder at least partially delimit a internal chamber configured to accommodate the lock of hair after it has been shaped.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un dispositif d'immobilisation de cheveux qui est disposé à une extrémité distale du mandrin. Le dispositif d'immobilisation de cheveux peut par exemple comporter une pluralité de picots faisant saillie à l'extrémité distale du mandrin. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a hair immobilizing device which is arranged at a distal end of the mandrel. The hair immobilization device may for example comprise a plurality of barbs projecting from the distal end of the mandrel.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un organe d'accouplement, tel qu'un embrayage, qui est mobile entre une position d'accouplement dans laquelle l'organe d'accouplement est couplé mécaniquement au mandrin ou à l'enrouleur, et une position de désaccouplement dans laquelle l'organe d'accouplement est désaccouplé mécaniquement du mandrin ou de l'enrouleur, l'organe d'accouplement étant configuré pour occuper la position d'accouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin est inférieure à 0,25 MPa, et pour être déplacé dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin atteint ou dépasse 0,25 MPa.According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a coupling member, such as a clutch, which is movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the chuck or the reel, and an uncoupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically uncoupled from the chuck or the reel, the coupling member being configured to occupy the coupling position when the constraint winding stress applied to the lock of hair that is wrapped around the mandrel is less than 0.25 MPa, and to be moved to the uncoupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair that is wrapped around the mandrel reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'organe d'accouplement est configuré pour occuper la position d'accouplement tant qu'un couple d'enroulement appliqué sur le mandrin ou l'enrouleur, par exemple par un utilisateur via le corps de préhension ou par le moteur d'entraînement, lors de l'étape d'enroulement reste inférieur à une valeur prédéterminée, et pour être déplacé dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque le couple d'enroulement appliqué sur le mandrin ou l'enrouleur lors de l'étape d'enroulement devient supérieur ou égal à la valeur prédéterminée. According to one embodiment of the invention, the coupling member is configured to occupy the coupling position as long as a winding torque applied to the mandrel or the winder, for example by a user via the gripping body or by the driving motor, during the winding step remains lower than a predetermined value, and to be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding torque applied to the mandrel or the winder during the step winding becomes greater than or equal to the predetermined value.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'organe d'accouplement est interposé mécaniquement entre le corps de préhension et le mandrin, ou entre un arbre de sortie du moteur d'entraînement et le mandrin, ou encore entre l'arbre de sortie du moteur d'entraînement et l'enrouleur. According to one embodiment of the invention, the coupling member is mechanically interposed between the gripping body and the chuck, or between an output shaft of the drive motor and the chuck, or even between the drive motor output shaft and winder.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un capteur de contrainte qui est configuré pour déterminer la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin, et une unité de commande qui est configurée pour déplacer l'organe d'accouplement dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement déterminée par le capteur de contrainte atteint ou dépasse 0,25 MPa. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a stress sensor which is configured to determine the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel, and a control unit which is configured to move the coupling member into the uncoupling position when the winding strain determined by the strain sensor reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un organe de retenue qui est monté mobile entre une première position de fonctionnement dans laquelle l'organe de retenue est éloigné du mandrin de manière à permettre un positionnement d'une mèche de cheveux entre le mandrin et l'organe de retenue, et une deuxième position de fonctionnement dans laquelle l'organe de retenue est configuré pour prendre appui contre le mandrin de manière à permettre un pincement de la mèche de cheveux entre le mandrin et l'organe de retenue. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing device comprises a retaining member which is mounted to move between a first operating position in which the retaining member is remote from the mandrel so as to allow positioning of a lock of hair between the mandrel and the retainer, and a second operating position in which the retainer is configured to bear against the mandrel so as to allow the lock of hair to be pinched between the mandrel and the retainer.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure comporte un élément chauffant qui est intégré dans le mandrin et qui est configuré pour chauffer le mandrin. According to one embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance comprises a heating element which is integrated into the mandrel and which is configured to heat the mandrel.
Brève description des figures Brief description of figures
De toute façon l'invention sera bien comprise à l'aide de la description qui suit en référence aux dessins schématiques annexés représentant, à titre d'exemple non limitatif, une forme d'exécution de cet appareil de coiffure. La figure 1 est un diagramme représentant les étapes d'un procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la présente invention. In any event, the invention will be better understood with the aid of the following description with reference to the appended diagrammatic drawings showing, by way of non-limiting example, one embodiment of this hairdressing device. Figure 1 is a diagram representing the steps of a hair curling process according to the present invention.
La figure 2 est une vue en perspective d'un appareil de coiffure pouvant être utilisé dans le cadre du procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la présente invention. FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a hairdressing device that can be used in the context of the method for curling hair according to the present invention.
La figure 3 est une vue en perspective écorchée d'un autre appareil de coiffure pouvant être utilisé dans le cadre du procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la présente invention. FIG. 3 is a cutaway perspective view of another hairdressing device that can be used in the context of the method of curling hair according to the present invention.
La figure 4 est une représentation schématique d'une vue en coupe d'une mèche de cheveux au début de son enroulement autour d'un mandrin selon le procédé de bouclage de l'invention. Figure 4 is a schematic representation of a sectional view of a lock of hair at the start of its winding around a mandrel according to the curling method of the invention.
La figure 5 est une représentation schématique d'une vue en coupe d'une mèche de cheveux à la fin de son enroulement autour d'un mandrin selon le procédé de bouclage de l'invention. Figure 5 is a schematic representation of a sectional view of a lock of hair at the end of its winding around a mandrel according to the curling method of the invention.
Description détaillée detailed description
La présente invention concerne un procédé de bouclage thermo-mécanique de cheveux comprenant notamment une étape de fourniture SI consistant à fournir un appareil de coiffure. The present invention relates to a process for the thermo-mechanical curling of hair comprising in particular a supply step SI consisting in supplying a hairdressing appliance.
La figure 2 représente un mode de réalisation d'un appareil de coiffure 1 pouvant être fourni à l'étape de fourniture SI. L'appareil de coiffure 1 comprend un corps de préhension 2, tel qu'une poignée de préhension ou un manche de préhension, qui est configuré pour permettre à un utilisateur de manipuler l'appareil de coiffure 1 durant son utilisation. Figure 2 shows an embodiment of a hairdressing appliance 1 that can be provided in the supply step SI. The hairdressing appliance 1 comprises a gripping body 2, such as a gripping handle or a gripping handle, which is configured to allow a user to manipulate the hairdressing appliance 1 during its use.
L'appareil de coiffure 1 comprend en outre un mandrin 3 qui prolonge le corps de préhension 2 selon un axe longitudinal A. Le mandrin 3 présente un rayon d'enroulement r d'une mèche de cheveux X compris entre 2,5 et 7,5 mm, par exemple entre 4 et 6 mm et avantageusement de l'ordre de 5 mm. Le mandrin 3 peut par exemple être cylindrique et présenter un diamètre de mandrin compris entre 5 et 15 mm, par exemple entre 8 et 12 mm et avantageusement de l'ordre de 10 mm. Selon le mode de réalisation représenté sur la figure 2, le mandrin 3 est couplé en rotation au corps de préhension 2, c'est-à-dire que le mandrin 3 est par exemple monté fixe sur le corps de préhension 2. The hairdressing appliance 1 further comprises a mandrel 3 which extends the gripping body 2 along a longitudinal axis A. The mandrel 3 has a winding radius r of a lock of hair X of between 2.5 and 7, 5 mm, for example between 4 and 6 mm and advantageously of the order of 5 mm. The mandrel 3 can for example be cylindrical and have a mandrel diameter of between 5 and 15 mm, for example between 8 and 12 mm and advantageously of the order of 10 mm. According to the embodiment shown in Figure 2, the mandrel 3 is coupled in rotation to the gripping body 2, that is to say that the mandrel 3 is for example mounted fixed on the gripping body 2.
Le corps de préhension 2 comprend une arrivée 200 d'un cordon d'alimentation, par exemple d'un cordon électrique. Dans la présente description, l'arrivée 200 constitue avantageusement le point de référence par rapport auquel les expressions distales et proximales se réfèrent : ainsi l'expression « extrémité proximale » fait référence à une extrémité située du côté de l'arrivée 200 tandis qu'au contraire l'expression « extrémité distale » fait référence à une extrémité située à l'opposé de l'arrivée 200. The gripping body 2 includes an inlet 200 for a power cord, for example an electric cord. In the present description, the inlet 200 advantageously constitutes the reference point with respect to which the distal and proximal expressions refer: thus the expression "proximal end" refers to an end located on the side of the inlet 200 while on the contrary, the expression "distal end" refers to an end located opposite the inlet 200.
L'appareil de coiffure 1 comprend de plus un organe de retenue 4, tel qu'une tuile de maintien, qui est monté mobile par rapport au corps de préhension 2 entre une première position de fonctionnement dans laquelle l'organe de retenue 4 est éloigné du mandrin 3 de manière à permettre un positionnement d'une mèche de cheveux X entre le mandrin 3 et l'organe de retenue 4, et une deuxième position de fonctionnement dans laquelle l'organe de retenue 4 est configuré pour prendre appui contre le mandrin 3 de manière à permettre un pincement de la mèche de cheveux entre le mandrin 3 et l'organe de retenue 4. The hairdressing device 1 further comprises a retaining member 4, such as a retaining tile, which is mounted so as to move relative to the gripping body 2 between a first operating position in which the retaining member 4 is moved away of the mandrel 3 so as to allow positioning of a lock of hair X between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4, and a second operating position in which the retaining member 4 is configured to bear against the mandrel 3 so as to allow the lock of hair to be pinched between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4.
L'organe de retenue 4 présente une forme globalement en arc de cercle qui est adaptée (c'est-à-dire de forme complémentaire) à celle du mandrin 3. L'extrémité proximale 5 de l'organe de retenue 4 est fixée à un doigt de manipulation 6 qui est monté articulé vis-à-vis de l'extrémité distale 7 du corps de préhension 2. Une pression sur la partie arrière 8 du doigt de manipulation 6 permet de déplacer l'organe de retenue 4 vers la première position de fonctionnement, pour permettre l'introduction d'une mèche de cheveux entre le mandrin 3 et l'organe de retenue 4. Un ressort 9, agencé entre l'extrémité distale 7 du corps de préhension 2 et le doigt de manipulation 6, par exemple selon un axe sensiblement perpendiculaire à l'axe longitudinal A, permet de déplacer l'organe de retenue 4 dans la deuxième position de fonctionnement, tel qu'illustré en figure 2, lorsque l'on cesse d'appuyer sur la partie arrière 8 du doigt de manipulation 6, ce qui permet le pincement d'une mèche de cheveux (non illustrée) positionnée entre le mandrin 3 et l'organe de retenue 4. The retainer 4 has a globally arcuate shape which is adapted (that is to say of complementary shape) to that of the mandrel 3. The proximal end 5 of the retainer 4 is fixed to a manipulation finger 6 which is mounted articulated with respect to the distal end 7 of the gripping body 2. Pressure on the rear part 8 of the manipulation finger 6 makes it possible to move the retaining member 4 towards the first operating position, to allow the introduction of a lock of hair between the mandrel 3 and the retaining member 4. A spring 9, arranged between the distal end 7 of the gripping body 2 and the manipulation finger 6, for example along an axis substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis A, makes it possible to move the retaining member 4 into the second operating position, as illustrated in FIG. 2, when pressing is stopped on the rear part 8 of the manipulation finger 6, which allows the pinching of a lock of hair (not illustrated) positioned between the mandrel 3 and the retainer 4.
Selon le mode de réalisation représenté sur la figure 2, l'extrémité distale 11 de l'organe de retenue 4 est située sensiblement en regard d'une portion d'extrémité distale 12 du mandrin 3. According to the embodiment shown in Figure 2, the distal end 11 of the retaining member 4 is located substantially opposite a distal end portion 12 of the mandrel 3.
L'appareil de coiffure 1 comporte en outre un élément chauffant 13, tel qu'une résistance électrique, qui est intégré dans le mandrin 3 et qui est configuré pour chauffer le mandrin 3, et une unité de commande 14 qui est configurée pour réguler la température de chauffage de l'élément chauffant 13. Selon une variante de réalisation de l'invention, l'appareil de coiffure 1 pourrait être dépourvu d'un élément chauffant, et être configuré pour restituer de la chaleur qu'il a accumulée, par exemple après avoir été placé dans un environnement chaud, ou pour recevoir de la chaleur depuis l'extérieur, par exemple à partir d'un flux d'air chaud. The hairdressing appliance 1 further comprises a heating element 13, such as an electrical resistance, which is integrated into the mandrel 3 and which is configured to heat the mandrel 3, and a control unit 14 which is configured to regulate the heating temperature of the heating element 13. According to a variant embodiment of the invention, the hairdressing appliance 1 could be devoid of a heating element, and be configured to restore the heat that it has accumulated, by for example after being placed in a hot environment, or to receive heat from the outside, for example from a flow of hot air.
Le procédé de bouclage selon la présente invention comporte en outre une étape d'enroulement S2 consistant à enrouler une mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3.The curling method according to the present invention further comprises a winding step S2 consisting in winding a lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre du procédé de bouclage selon la présente invention, une telle étape d'enroulement S2 comprend notamment : According to one embodiment of the looping method according to the present invention, such a winding step S2 comprises in particular:
- une première étape de déplacement consistant à déplacer l'organe de retenue 4 dans la première position de fonctionnement, - a first displacement step consisting in displacing the retaining member 4 into the first operating position,
- une étape de positionnement consistant à positionner une mèche de cheveux entre l'organe de retenue 4 et le mandrin 3, - a positioning step consisting in positioning a lock of hair between the retaining member 4 and the mandrel 3,
- une deuxième étape de déplacement consistant à déplacer l'organe de retenue 4 dans la deuxième position de fonctionnement, - a second displacement step consisting in displacing the retaining member 4 into the second operating position,
- une étape d'entraînement en rotation consistant à entraîner en rotation le corps de préhension 2 autour d'un axe de rotation qui est sensiblement parallèle, et par exemple confondu, à l'axe longitudinal A de manière à enrouler manuellement la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3. - a rotary drive step consisting in driving the gripping body 2 in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel, and for example coincident, with the longitudinal axis A so as to manually roll up the lock of hair around the chuck 3.
Selon une variante de mise en œuvre du procédé de bouclage de cheveux, l'appareil de coiffure 1 pourrait comporter un moteur d'entraînement configuré pour entraîner en rotation le mandrin 3 autour d'un axe de rotation qui est sensiblement parallèle, et par exemple confondu, à l'axe longitudinal A, et l'étape d'entraînement en rotation consisterait alors à entraîner en rotation le mandrin 3 autour de l'axe de rotation de manière à enrouler automatiquement la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3. Le mandrin 3 serait alors monté en liaison pivot par rapport au corps de préhension 2, autour de l'axe longitudinal A. According to an implementation variant of the hair curling process, the apparatus for hairstyle 1 could comprise a drive motor configured to drive the mandrel 3 in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to, and for example coincident with, the longitudinal axis A, and the rotational drive step would then consist in driving the mandrel 3 in rotation around the axis of rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3. The mandrel 3 would then be mounted in pivot connection with respect to the gripping body 2, around the longitudinal axis A.
Selon un autre mode de mise en œuvre du procédé de bouclage de cheveux, l'appareil de coiffure 1 fourni à l'étape de fourniture SI pourrait comporter, à la place de l'organe de retenue 4, un enrouleur qui est creux et monté rotatif autour du mandrin 3, et en outre un moteur d'entraînement configuré pour entraîner en rotation l'enrouleur autour d'un axe de rotation qui est sensiblement parallèle, et par exemple confondu, à l'axe longitudinal A, et l'étape d'entraînement en rotation consisterait alors à entraîner en rotation l'enrouleur de manière à enrouler automatiquement la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3. According to another mode of implementation of the method of curling hair, the hairdressing appliance 1 supplied in the supply step SI could include, instead of the retaining member 4, a winder which is hollow and mounted rotatable around the mandrel 3, and furthermore a drive motor configured to drive the winder in rotation around an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel, and for example coinciding, with the longitudinal axis A, and the step drive in rotation would then consist in driving the winder in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
La figure 3 représente un appareil de coiffure 1 selon ce mode de réalisation du procédé de bouclage de cheveux et pouvant être fourni à l'étape de fourniture SI. FIG. 3 represents a hairdressing appliance 1 according to this embodiment of the method of curling hair and which can be supplied in the supply step SI.
L'appareil de coiffure 1 représenté sur la figure 3 comporte un boîtier 11 qui est fixé au corps de préhension 2 et qui est creux. Le boîtier 11 comprend une extrémité libre 12 destinée à être orientée sensiblement perpendiculairement avec la tête de l'utilisateur, et plus particulièrement avec son cuir chevelu, au moment de l'opération de bouclage. Le boîtier 11 contient le mandrin 3, et forme en son intérieur une chambre d'enroulement 13 destinée à accueillir la mèche de cheveux, avant sa mise en forme, dans une chambre externe 131, puis après sa mise en forme, dans une chambre interne 132. The hairdressing device 1 represented in FIG. 3 comprises a casing 11 which is fixed to the gripping body 2 and which is hollow. The housing 11 comprises a free end 12 intended to be oriented substantially perpendicularly with the head of the user, and more particularly with his scalp, at the time of the curling operation. The housing 11 contains the mandrel 3, and forms in its interior a winding chamber 13 intended to accommodate the lock of hair, before its shaping, in an external chamber 131, then after its shaping, in an internal chamber 132.
Le boîtier 11 comprend une ouverture faciale 14 réalisée au niveau de l'extrémité libre 12 du boîtier 11, et également une première ouverture latérale 15 et une deuxième ouverture latérale 16 qui s'étendent chacune depuis l'ouverture faciale 14 en direction du corps de préhension 2. La première ouverture latérale 15 est conçue pour accueillir la mèche de cheveux, notamment lorsque l'extrémité libre 12 est placée sensiblement perpendiculairement à la tête de l'utilisateur. La deuxième ouverture latérale 16 se présente avantageusement sous la forme d'une encoche en T renversé depuis l'extrémité libre 12. La forme particulière de la deuxième ouverture latérale 16 permet, lorsque la mèche de cheveux est placée dans la « petite barre » du T, de maintenir la mèche de cheveux au fond de la deuxième ouverture latérale 16, et d'optimiser le guidage de cette dernière lors de son enroulement. The housing 11 includes a face opening 14 made at the free end 12 of the housing 11, and also a first side opening 15 and a second side opening 16 which each extend from the face opening 14 in the direction of the body of grip 2. The first side opening 15 is designed to accommodate the lock of hair, in particular when the free end 12 is placed substantially perpendicular to the head of the user. The second side opening 16 is advantageously in the form of an inverted T notch from the free end 12. The particular shape of the second side opening 16 allows, when the lock of hair is placed in the "small bar" of the T, to maintain the lock of hair at the bottom of the second lateral opening 16, and to optimize the guidance of the latter during its winding.
L'appareil de coiffure 1 représenté sur la figure 3 comprend en outre un enrouleur 17 qui est monté mobile en rotation par rapport au mandrin 3 et qui est configuré pour enrouler une mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3 lors de la rotation de l'enrouleurThe hairdressing appliance 1 represented in FIG. 3 further comprises a winder 17 which is mounted so as to be able to rotate with respect to the mandrel 3 and which is configured to wind a lock of hair around the mandrel 3 during the rotation of the winder
17 dans un sens prédéterminé. L'enrouleur 17 est disposé dans le boîtier 11. 17 in a predetermined direction. The reel 17 is arranged in the housing 11.
L'enrouleur 17 est creux et présente une forme de révolution. L'enrouleur 17 est positionné de manière coaxiale autour du mandrin 3. L'enrouleur 17 a une première extrémité longitudinale 171 qui est assujettie à une roue dentée 18. Cette roue dentéeThe winder 17 is hollow and has a shape of revolution. The winder 17 is positioned coaxially around the mandrel 3. The winder 17 has a first longitudinal end 171 which is secured to a toothed wheel 18. This toothed wheel
18 engrène avec une vis sans fin 19 qui est entraînée en rotation par un moteur d'entraînement 21, ce qui permet d'entraîner la rotation de l'enrouleur 17. Le sens de rotation du moteur d'entraînement 21 est avantageusement réversible, ce qui permet d'inverser le sens de rotation de l'enrouleur 17. Le moteur d'entraînement 21, la roue dentée 18 et la vis sans fin 19 constituent un mode avantageux de conception de moyens d'entraînement en rotation de l'enrouleur 17, d'autres variantes restant envisageables sans sortir du cadre de l'invention. 18 meshes with an endless screw 19 which is driven in rotation by a drive motor 21, which makes it possible to drive the rotation of the winder 17. The direction of rotation of the drive motor 21 is advantageously reversible, this which makes it possible to reverse the direction of rotation of the reel 17. The drive motor 21, the toothed wheel 18 and the worm 19 constitute an advantageous mode of designing means for driving the reel 17 in rotation. , other variants remaining possible without departing from the scope of the invention.
L'enrouleur 17 a préférentiellement une forme conique qui s'étend en expansion en direction de l'extrémité distale du mandrin 3. L'enrouleur 17 pourrait cependant disposer d'une surface de révolution de forme cylindrique plutôt que conique. The winder 17 preferably has a conical shape which expands in the direction of the distal end of the mandrel 3. The winder 17 could however have a surface of revolution of cylindrical rather than conical shape.
L'enrouleur 17 comprend une encoche 172, ou découpe, qui s'étend sur sa surface de révolution et qui débouche sur un bord libre 173 à une seconde extrémité longitudinale 174 dudit enrouleur 17. Deux crochets 175 sont agencés en vis-à-vis dans le prolongement du bord libre 173, au niveau des deux extrémités de l'encoche 172. L'appareil de coiffure 1 représenté sur la figure 3 comprend également un dispositif d'immobilisation de cheveux 22 disposé à l'extrémité distale du mandrin 3. Ce dispositif d'immobilisation de cheveux 22 comprend une pluralité de picots 221 faisant saillie à l'extrémité distale du mandrin 3. Ce dispositif d'immobilisation de cheveux 22 permet de réaliser le guidage de la mèche de cheveux durant son enroulement de manière à éviter que la mèche ne tourne autour de l'extrémité distale du mandrin 3. En outre, ce dispositif d'immobilisation de cheveux 22 permet le démoulage de la mèche bouclée sans la détériorer. Lors de l'entraînement en rotation de l'enrouleur 17, celui-ci emporte la mèche de cheveux qui reste guidée sur l'un des picots 221 du dispositif d'immobilisation de cheveux 22, l'obligeant à s'enrouler autour du mandrin 3. Le sens des boucles réalisées dépend donc du sens de rotation de l'enrouleur 17. On pourrait toutefois prévoir un seul sens de bouclage sans sortir du cadre de l'invention. The retractor 17 comprises a notch 172, or cutout, which extends over its surface of revolution and which opens onto a free edge 173 at a second longitudinal end 174 of said retractor 17. Two hooks 175 are arranged opposite in the extension of the free edge 173, at the two ends of the notch 172. The hairdressing appliance 1 represented in FIG. 3 also comprises a hair immobilizing device 22 arranged at the distal end of the mandrel 3. This hair immobilizing device 22 comprises a plurality of pins 221 projecting at the distal end of the mandrel 3. This hair immobilization device 22 makes it possible to guide the lock of hair during its winding so as to prevent the lock from rotating around the distal end of the mandrel 3. In addition, this hair immobilization device 22 allows the release of the curly lock without damaging it. When the retractor 17 is driven in rotation, the latter carries the lock of hair which remains guided on one of the pins 221 of the hair immobilizer 22, forcing it to wrap around the mandrel. 3. The direction of the loops made therefore depends on the direction of rotation of the winder 17. One could however provide a single direction of looping without departing from the scope of the invention.
Ainsi, selon le mode de réalisation représenté sur la figure 3, l'appareil de coiffure 1 est un appareil de coiffure automatique permettant d'enrouler automatiquement une mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3. En l'espèce, contrairement au mode de réalisation de la figure 2, l'utilisateur n'a pas à enrouler lui-même la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3 : il lui suffit d'actionner un interrupteur et l'appareil de coiffure 1 va lui-même, automatiquement, grâce à l'enrouleur 17, enrouler la mèche de cheveux autour du mandrin 3. Thus, according to the embodiment shown in Figure 3, the hairdressing device 1 is an automatic hairdressing device for automatically winding a lock of hair around the mandrel 3. In this case, unlike the embodiment of Figure 2, the user does not have to wrap the lock of hair around the mandrel 3 himself: he just has to activate a switch and the hairdressing device 1 goes automatically, thanks to the winder 17, wind the lock of hair around the mandrel 3.
Le procédé de bouclage selon la présente invention comporte également une étape de chauffage S3 consistant à chauffer la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin 3 à une température de chauffage comprise entre 110 et 150°C, par exemple entre 120 et 140°C et avantageusement de l'ordre de 130°C. The curling method according to the present invention also comprises a heating step S3 consisting in heating the lock of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel 3 to a heating temperature of between 110 and 150° C., for example between 120 and 140° C. and advantageously of the order of 130°C.
Le procédé de bouclage selon la présente invention comporte de plus une étape d'application S4 consistant à appliquer une contrainte d'enroulement inférieure ou égale à 0,25 MPa sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin 3.The curling process according to the present invention further comprises an application step S4 consisting in applying a winding stress of less than or equal to 0.25 MPa on the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3.
Selon un mode de mise en œuvre du procédé de bouclage, l'appareil de coiffure 1 fourni à l'étape de fourniture SI comporte en outre un organe d'accouplement, par exemple interposé mécaniquement entre le corps de préhension 2 et le mandrin 3 ou entre le mandrin 3 et un arbre de sortie du moteur d'entraînement précité, mobile entre une position d'accouplement dans laquelle l'organe d'accouplement est couplé mécaniquement au mandrin 3, et une position de désaccouplement dans laquelle l'organe d'accouplement est désaccouplé mécaniquement du mandrin 3, l'organe d'accouplement étant configuré pour occuper la position d'accouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin 3 est inférieure à 0,25 MPa, et pour être déplacé dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin 3 atteint ou dépasse 0,25 MPa. According to one mode of implementation of the looping method, the hairdressing appliance 1 provided in the supply step SI further comprises a coupling member, for example mechanically interposed between the gripping body 2 and the mandrel 3 or between the chuck 3 and an output shaft of the aforementioned drive motor, movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the chuck 3, and an uncoupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically uncoupled from the mandrel 3, the coupling member being configured to occupy the coupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 is less than 0.25 MPa, and for be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
Dans le mode de réalisation illustré à la figure 3, l'organe d'accouplement est interposé mécaniquement entre le moteur d'entraînement et l'enrouleur. In the embodiment illustrated in Figure 3, the coupling member is mechanically interposed between the drive motor and the reel.
Une telle configuration de l'organe d'accouplement permet de ne plus pouvoir transmettre un couple de rotation au mandrin 3 lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin 3 atteint ou dépasse 0,25 MPa, et donc de limiter la dégradation des cheveux lors de l'étape d'enroulement. Such a configuration of the coupling member makes it possible to no longer be able to transmit a rotational torque to the mandrel 3 when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair which is wound around the mandrel 3 reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa, and therefore to limit the degradation of the hair during the winding step.
Un déplacement de l'organe d'accouplement entre les positions d'accouplement et de désaccouplement pourrait par exemple être commandé mécaniquement. A cet effet, l'organe d'accouplement pourrait être configuré pour occuper la position d'accouplement tant qu'un couple d'enroulement appliqué sur le mandrin 3, par exemple par un utilisateur via le corps de préhension 2 ou par le moteur d'entraînement si l'appareil de coiffure est motorisé, lors de l'étape d'enroulement reste inférieur à une valeur prédéterminée, et pour être déplacé dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque le couple d'enroulement appliqué sur le mandrin 3 lors de l'étape d'enroulement atteint ou dépasse la valeur prédéterminée. A movement of the coupling member between the coupling and uncoupling positions could for example be controlled mechanically. To this end, the coupling member could be configured to occupy the coupling position as long as a winding torque applied to the mandrel 3, for example by a user via the gripping body 2 or by the motor of drive if the hairdressing appliance is motorized, during the winding step remains below a predetermined value, and to be moved into the uncoupling position when the winding torque applied to the mandrel 3 during the winding step reaches or exceeds the predetermined value.
Un déplacement de l'organe d'accouplement entre les positions d'accouplement et de désaccouplement pourrait également être commandé électriquement ou électroniquement. A cet effet, l'appareil de coiffure 1 pourrait comporter un capteur de contrainte configuré pour déterminer la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux qui est enroulée autour du mandrin 3, et l'unité de commande 14 pourrait être configurée pour commander un déplacement de l'organe d'accouplement dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement déterminée par le capteur de contrainte atteint ou dépasse 0,25 MPa. Movement of the coupling member between the coupling and uncoupling positions could also be controlled electrically or electronically. To this end, the hairdressing appliance 1 could include a stress sensor configured to determine the winding stress applied to the strand of hair which is wrapped around the mandrel 3, and the control unit 14 could be configured to control a movement of the coupling member into the uncoupling position when the winding stress determined by the stress sensor reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa.
Afin de démontrer les avantages du procédé de bouclage selon la présente invention, différents procédés de bouclage de cheveux ont été appliqués sur des mèches de cheveux de test formées de vrais cheveux humains. Les procédés de bouclage de cheveux diffèrent notamment dans les paramètres de bouclage utilisés, tels que la température de chauffage appliquée lors de l'étape de chauffage, le diamètre de mandrin du mandrin utilisé lors de l'étape d'enroulement et la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée lors de l'étape d'application. In order to demonstrate the advantages of the curling method according to the present invention, different hair curling methods were applied to test hair strands formed from real human hair. Hair curling methods differ in particular in the curling parameters used, such as the heating temperature applied during the heating step, the mandrel diameter of the mandrel used during the winding step and the stress of winding applied during the application step.
Les résultats obtenus lors de ces différents procédés de bouclage de cheveux sont en partie rapportés dans deux tableaux reproduits ci-après. The results obtained during these different hair curling processes are partly reported in two tables reproduced below.
Un premier tableau montrant la variation d'un indice de courbure, également nommé Curl Index, en fonction de la température de chauffage et du diamètre de mandrin est reproduit ci-dessous. Les résultats mentionnés dans le premier tableau ont été obtenus en appliquant une contrainte d'enroulement de 0,25 MPa lors de l'étape d'application.A first table showing the variation of a curvature index, also called Curl Index, as a function of the heating temperature and the mandrel diameter is reproduced below. The results mentioned in the first table were obtained by applying a winding stress of 0.25 MPa during the application step.
L'indice de courbure correspond à un rapport de la longueur d'une mèche de cheveux au repos après bouclage sur la longueur de ladite mèche de cheveux avant bouclage à l'état étendu. A l'état étendu, la mèche de cheveux est étendue manuellement sans extension. The curvature index corresponds to a ratio of the length of a lock of hair at rest after curling to the length of said lock of hair before curling in the extended state. In the extended state, the lock of hair is manually extended without extension.
Ainsi, plus la valeur du Curl Index sera faible, plus la mèche de cheveux sera bouclée. L'analyse de l'évolution du Curl index au cours de temps, permet de constater la rémanence de la boucle, c'est-à-dire sa capacité à durer dans le temps. Thus, the lower the value of the Curl Index, the curlier the lock of hair will be. The analysis of the evolution of the Curl index over time shows the persistence of the curl, that is to say its ability to last over time.
La demanderesse a pu constater que le relâchement des boucles intervient majoritairement pendant les trois premières heures après bouclage, comme on peut le voir sur la Table 1 reproduite ci-dessous qui donne l'évolution de l'indice de courbure avec le temps de suspension d'une mèche de cheveux. [Table 1] The Applicant has been able to observe that the loosening of the curls occurs mainly during the first three hours after curling, as can be seen in Table 1 reproduced below which gives the evolution of the curvature index with the suspension time of 'a lock of hair. [Table 1]
Une Table 2 montrant la variation d'un indice de courbure et de l'état de la structure interne des cheveux en fonction de la température de chauffage, du diamètre de mandrin et de la contrainte d'enroulement est reproduite ci-dessous. A Table 2 showing the variation of a curvature index and the state of the internal structure of the hair as a function of the heating temperature, the mandrel diameter and the winding stress is reproduced below.
[Table 2] [Table 2]
Contrainte Diamètre du _ , Indice de État de laConstraint Diameter of _ , Index of State of
Temperature d'enroulement mandrin courbure moyen structureWinding temperature mandrel medium curvature structure
0,25 MPa 10 mm 200°C 0,35 Intacte0.25 MPa 10 mm 200°C 0.35 Intact
0,25 MPa 10 mm 130°C 0,39 Intacte0.25 MPa 10 mm 130°C 0.39 Intact
0,25 MPa 15 mm 200°C 0,52 Intacte0.25 MPa 15 mm 200°C 0.52 Intact
0,25 MPa 15 mm 130°C 0,52 Intacte0.25 MPa 15 mm 130°C 0.52 Intact
0,25 MPa 20 mm 200°C 0,62 Intacte0.25 MPa 20 mm 200°C 0.62 Intact
0,25 MPa 20 mm 130°C 0,65 Intacte0.25 MPa 20 mm 130°C 0.65 Intact
0,25 MPa 25 mm 200°C 0,68 Intacte0.25 MPa 25 mm 200°C 0.68 Intact
0,25 MPa 25 mm 130°C 0,75 Intacte0.25 MPa 25 mm 130°C 0.75 Intact
20 MPa 25 mm 200°C 0,86 Dégradée20 MPa 25 mm 200°C 0.86 Degraded
30 MPa 25 mm 130°C 0,82 Dégradée30 MPa 25 mm 130°C 0.82 Degraded
30 MPa 25 mm 200°C 0,83 Très dégradée30 MPa 25 mm 200°C 0.83 Very degraded
50 MPa 25 mm 130°C NA Très dégradée50 MPa 25 mm 130°C NA Very degraded
Chaque valeur d'« indice de courbure » mentionnée dans la Table 2 correspond à une moyenne de plusieurs valeurs d'« indice de courbure » obtenues en appliquant le même procédé de bouclage sur au moins cinq mèches de cheveux de test identiques. Les mesures ont été réalisées 3h après le déroulement du procédé de bouclage selon l'invention. Il ressort de la Table 2 reproduite ci-dessus que, contrairement à un préjugé existant, une température de chauffage élevée, par exemple de l'ordre de 200°C, n'a que très peu d'influence sur l'indice de courbure, et donc sur la rémanence d'une boucle de cheveux. Each “curvature index” value mentioned in Table 2 corresponds to an average of several “curvature index” values obtained by applying the same curling process to at least five identical test locks of hair. The measurements were carried out 3 hours after the completion of the looping process according to the invention. It appears from Table 2 reproduced above that, contrary to an existing prejudice, a high heating temperature, for example of the order of 200° C., has very little influence on the curvature index. , and therefore on the remanence of a lock of hair.
Il ressort également de la Table 2 reproduite ci-dessus que, pour une contrainte d'enroulement de 0,25 MPa, plus le diamètre de mandrin est faible, plus l'indice de courbure diminue. It also emerges from Table 2 reproduced above that, for a winding stress of 0.25 MPa, the smaller the mandrel diameter, the lower the curvature index.
Il ressort de la Table 2 que l'application d'une contrainte d'enroulement de 0,25 MPa lors de l'étape d'application n'induit aucune dégradation de la structure interne des cheveux. It emerges from Table 2 that the application of a winding stress of 0.25 MPa during the application step does not induce any degradation of the internal structure of the hair.
Il ressort également de la Table 2 que la combinaison d'une contrainte d'enroulement de 0,25 MPa avec un faible diamètre de mandrin (par exemple de 10 mm) permet d'une part d'obtenir un indice de courbure sensiblement plus faible qu'en combinant une contrainte d'enroulement élevée, par exemple supérieure à 20 MPa, avec un diamètre de mandrin élevé, en particulier de l'ordre de 25 mm, et d'autre part de ne pas dégrader la structure interne des cheveux traités. It also emerges from Table 2 that the combination of a winding stress of 0.25 MPa with a small mandrel diameter (for example 10 mm) makes it possible on the one hand to obtain a significantly lower curvature index that by combining a high winding stress, for example greater than 20 MPa, with a high mandrel diameter, in particular of the order of 25 mm, and on the other hand not to degrade the internal structure of the treated hair .
Bien entendu, la présente invention n'est nullement limitée aux modes de réalisation décrits et illustrés qui n'ont été donnés qu'à titre d'exemples. Des modifications restent possibles, notamment du point de vue de la constitution des divers éléments ou par substitution d'équivalents techniques, sans sortir pour autant du domaine de protection de l'invention. Of course, the present invention is in no way limited to the embodiments described and illustrated which have been given by way of examples only. Modifications remain possible, in particular from the point of view of the constitution of the various elements or by substitution of technical equivalents, without thereby departing from the scope of protection of the invention.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS Procédé de bouclage de cheveux comprenant les étapes suivantes : CLAIMS Process for curling hair comprising the following steps:
- fourniture d'un appareil de coiffure (1) comprenant un mandrin (3) qui est chauffant et qui présente un rayon d'enroulement (r) d'une mèche de cheveux (X) compris entre 2,5 et 7,5 mm, - supply of a hairdressing appliance (1) comprising a mandrel (3) which is heated and which has a winding radius (r) of a lock of hair (X) of between 2.5 and 7.5 mm ,
- enroulement d'une mèche de cheveux (X) autour du mandrin (3), et - winding a lock of hair (X) around the mandrel (3), and
- application d'une contrainte d'enroulement inférieure ou égale à 0,25 MPa sur la mèche de cheveux (X) qui est enroulée autour du mandrin (3). Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la revendication 1, lequel comprend en outre un chauffage de la mèche de cheveux (X) qui est enroulée autour du mandrin (3) à une température de chauffage comprise entre 110 et 150°C. Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans lequel l'étape d'enroulement consiste à enrouler manuellement ou automatiquement la mèche de cheveux (X) autour du mandrin (3). Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, dans lequel l'appareil de coiffure (1) comporte un corps de préhension (2) configuré pour permettre à un utilisateur de pourvoir manipuler l'appareil de coiffure (1). Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la revendication 4, dans lequel le mandrin (3) est configuré pour être couplé en rotation au corps de préhension (2), et l'étape d'enroulement consiste à entraîner en rotation le corps de préhension (2) autour d'un axe de rotation qui est sensiblement parallèle à un axe d'extension du mandrin (3) de manière à enrouler manuellement la mèche de cheveux (X) autour du mandrin (3). Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la revendication 4, dans lequel l'appareil de coiffure (1) comporte un moteur d'entraînement configuré pour entraîner en rotation le mandrin (3) autour d'un axe de rotation qui est sensiblement parallèle à un axe d'extension du mandrin (3), et l'étape d'enroulement consiste à entraîner en rotation le mandrin de manière à enrouler automatiquement la mèche de cheveux (X) autour du mandrin (3). Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la revendication 4, dans lequel l'appareil de coiffure (1) comporte un enrouleur monté rotatif autour du mandrin (3) et un moteur d'entraînement configuré pour entraîner en rotation l'enrouleur (22) autour du mandrin (3), et l'étape d'enroulement consiste à entraîner en rotation l'enrouleur de manière à enrouler automatiquement la mèche de cheveux (X) autour du mandrin (3). Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 7 , dans lequel l'appareil de coiffure (1) comporte un organe d'accouplement qui est mobile entre une position d'accouplement dans laquelle l'organe d'accouplement est couplé mécaniquement au mandrin (3) ou à l'enrouleur, et une position de désaccouplement dans laquelle l'organe d'accouplement est désaccouplé mécaniquement du mandrin (3) ou de l'enrouleur, l'organe d'accouplement étant configuré pour occuper la position d'accouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux (X) qui est enroulée autour du mandrin (3) est inférieure à 0,25 MPa, et pour occuper la position de désaccouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux (X) qui est enroulée autour du mandrin atteint ou dépasse 0,25 MPa. Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la revendication 8, dans lequel l'organe d'accouplement est configuré pour occuper la position d'accouplement tant qu'un couple d'enroulement appliqué sur le mandrin (3) ou l'enrouleur lors de 19 l'étape d'enroulement reste inférieur à une valeur prédéterminée, et pour être déplacé dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque le couple d'enroulement appliqué sur le mandrin (3) ou l'enrouleur lors de l'étape d'enroulement devient supérieur ou égal à la valeur prédéterminée. Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon la revendication 8, dans lequel l'appareil de coiffure (1) comporte un capteur de contrainte qui est configuré pour déterminer la contrainte d'enroulement appliquée sur la mèche de cheveux (X) qui est enroulée autour du mandrin (3), et une unité de commande (14) qui est configurée pour déplacer l'organe d'accouplement dans la position de désaccouplement lorsque la contrainte d'enroulement déterminée par le capteur de contrainte atteint ou dépasse 0,25 MPa. Procédé de bouclage de cheveux selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 10, dans lequel l'appareil de coiffure (1) comporte un organe de retenue (4) qui est monté mobile entre une première position de fonctionnement dans laquelle l'organe de retenue (4) est éloigné du mandrin (3) de manière à permettre un positionnement d'une mèche de cheveux (X) entre le mandrin (3) et l'organe de retenue (4), et une deuxième position de fonctionnement dans laquelle l'organe de retenue (4) est configuré pour prendre appui contre le mandrin (3) de manière à permettre un pincement de la mèche de cheveux (X) entre le mandrin (3) et l'organe de retenue (4). - application of a winding stress less than or equal to 0.25 MPa on the lock of hair (X) which is wrapped around the mandrel (3). A method of curling hair according to claim 1, which further comprises heating the lock of hair (X) which is wrapped around the mandrel (3) to a heating temperature between 110 and 150°C. Hair curling method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the winding step consists of manually or automatically winding the lock of hair (X) around the mandrel (3). Method of curling hair according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the hairdressing device (1) comprises a gripping body (2) configured to allow a user to be able to manipulate the hairdressing device (1 ). A method of curling hair according to claim 4, wherein the mandrel (3) is configured to be rotatably coupled to the gripping body (2), and the winding step comprises rotating the gripping body (2 ) around an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an extension axis of the mandrel (3) so as to manually wind the lock of hair (X) around the mandrel (3). A method of curling hair according to claim 4, wherein the hairdressing appliance (1) comprises a drive motor configured to drive the mandrel (3) in rotation about an axis of rotation which is substantially parallel to an axis extension of the mandrel (3), and the winding step consists in driving the mandrel in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair (X) around the mandrel (3). Method of curling hair according to claim 4, in which the hairdressing appliance (1) comprises a winder rotatably mounted around the mandrel (3) and a drive motor configured to drive the winder (22) in rotation around the mandrel (3), and the winding step consists in driving the winder in rotation so as to automatically wind the lock of hair (X) around the mandrel (3). A method of curling hair according to any one of Claims 5 to 7, in which the hairdressing appliance (1) comprises a coupling member which is movable between a coupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically coupled to the mandrel (3) or the reel, and an uncoupling position in which the coupling member is mechanically uncoupled from the mandrel (3) or the reel, the coupling member being configured to occupy the coupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair (X) which is wrapped around the mandrel (3) is less than 0.25 MPa, and to occupy the uncoupling position when the winding stress applied to the lock of hair (X) which is wrapped around the mandrel reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa. A method of curling hair according to claim 8, wherein the coupling member is configured to occupy the coupling position as long as a winding torque applied to the mandrel (3) or the winder during 19 the winding step remains lower than a predetermined value, and to be moved to the uncoupling position when the winding torque applied to the mandrel (3) or the winder during the winding step becomes greater or equal to the predetermined value. A method of curling hair according to claim 8, wherein the styling apparatus (1) includes a stress sensor which is configured to determine the winding stress applied to the section of hair (X) which is wrapped around the mandrel (3), and a control unit (14) which is configured to move the coupling member into the uncoupling position when the winding stress determined by the strain sensor reaches or exceeds 0.25 MPa. Method of curling hair according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the hairdressing device (1) comprises a retaining member (4) which is mounted to move between a first operating position in which the retainer (4) is remote from the mandrel (3) so as to allow positioning of a lock of hair (X) between the mandrel (3) and the retainer (4), and a second operating position in which the retainer (4) is configured to bear against the mandrel (3) so as to allow the lock of hair (X) to be pinched between the mandrel (3) and the retainer (4).
EP21848005.1A 2020-12-22 2021-12-13 Method for curling hair Pending EP4266943A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2013877A FR3117746B1 (en) 2020-12-22 2020-12-22 hair curling process
PCT/FR2021/052294 WO2022136765A1 (en) 2020-12-22 2021-12-13 Method for curling hair

Publications (1)

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EP4266943A1 true EP4266943A1 (en) 2023-11-01

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ID=74592257

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP21848005.1A Pending EP4266943A1 (en) 2020-12-22 2021-12-13 Method for curling hair

Country Status (4)

Country Link
EP (1) EP4266943A1 (en)
CN (1) CN116669589A (en)
FR (1) FR3117746B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2022136765A1 (en)

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2675985B1 (en) * 1991-04-30 1993-08-13 Oreal PROCESS FOR APPLYING DEFORMATION TO HAIR USING A BIGOUDI, AND BIGOUDI FOR CARRYING OUT SUCH A PROCESS.
FR2960747A1 (en) * 2010-06-07 2011-12-09 Seb Sa HAIRSTANDING APPARATUS WITH MOTORIZED CHUCK

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WO2022136765A1 (en) 2022-06-30
FR3117746A1 (en) 2022-06-24
CN116669589A (en) 2023-08-29
FR3117746B1 (en) 2022-11-18

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