EP4262743A1 - Dendrobium fimbriatum extract and no-rinse cosmetic composition comprising same - Google Patents

Dendrobium fimbriatum extract and no-rinse cosmetic composition comprising same

Info

Publication number
EP4262743A1
EP4262743A1 EP21848276.8A EP21848276A EP4262743A1 EP 4262743 A1 EP4262743 A1 EP 4262743A1 EP 21848276 A EP21848276 A EP 21848276A EP 4262743 A1 EP4262743 A1 EP 4262743A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
extract
dendrobium fimbriatum
skin
cosmetic
dendrobium
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21848276.8A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Lorène GOURGUILLON
Catherine HEUSEULE
Anne-Laure Bulteau
Lauren SOBILO
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LVMH Recherche GIE
Original Assignee
LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LVMH Recherche GIE filed Critical LVMH Recherche GIE
Publication of EP4262743A1 publication Critical patent/EP4262743A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/70—Carbohydrates; Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K31/7028—Compounds having saccharide radicals attached to non-saccharide compounds by glycosidic linkages
    • A61K31/7034—Compounds having saccharide radicals attached to non-saccharide compounds by glycosidic linkages attached to a carbocyclic compound, e.g. phloridzin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/88—Liliopsida (monocotyledons)
    • A61K36/898—Orchidaceae (Orchid family)
    • A61K36/8984—Dendrobium
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
    • A61K2236/10—Preparation or pretreatment of starting material
    • A61K2236/15—Preparation or pretreatment of starting material involving mechanical treatment, e.g. chopping up, cutting or grinding
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
    • A61K2236/30—Extraction of the material
    • A61K2236/33—Extraction of the material involving extraction with hydrophilic solvents, e.g. lower alcohols, esters or ketones
    • A61K2236/333—Extraction of the material involving extraction with hydrophilic solvents, e.g. lower alcohols, esters or ketones using mixed solvents, e.g. 70% EtOH
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
    • A61K2236/30—Extraction of the material
    • A61K2236/39—Complex extraction schemes, e.g. fractionation or repeated extraction steps
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2236/00—Isolation or extraction methods of medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicine
    • A61K2236/50—Methods involving additional extraction steps
    • A61K2236/53—Liquid-solid separation, e.g. centrifugation, sedimentation or crystallization

Definitions

  • TITLE Dendrobium fimbriatum extract and leave-on cosmetic composition comprising
  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to a leave-in cosmetic composition comprising an orchid extract of the species Dendrobium fimbriatum, as well as its use for preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin ageing. It also relates to a particular extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum and to an extraction process for obtaining such an extract.
  • the skin is the body's first protective barrier against the environment. It is therefore subject to many factors likely to induce signs of skin aging, whether of exogenous origin (eg: UV radiation, temperature variations, atmospheric pollution, cigarette smoke, etc.) or endogenous (eg : hormone). We will talk about extrinsic aging and intrinsic (or physiological) aging, respectively.
  • exogenous origin eg: UV radiation, temperature variations, atmospheric pollution, cigarette smoke, etc.
  • endogenous eg : hormone
  • ECM extracellular matrix
  • the ECM at the level of the dermis plays essential roles in the physiology of the skin. Its alteration will directly impact the quality of the skin, which translates essentially by a loss of firmness, elasticity as well as the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles.
  • the Applicant demonstrated in vitro the effects of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum on certain proteins of the dermal ECM.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is capable of significantly increasing the synthesis of elastin, fibrillin 1, collagen 1 and nidogen.
  • this extract also makes it possible to reduce in vitro the morphological markers of fibroblast senescence.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention is of cosmetic interest as an anti-ageing active ingredient, in particular for preventing and/or reducing the signs of aging such as loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • the first object of the invention relates to a leave-in cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
  • leave-in cosmetic composition is understood to mean a care composition intended to remain in contact with keratin materials after application, to confer its beneficial effect (moisturizing, anti-aging, etc.), such as, for example, milks , creams, ointments, balms, sticks, gels, lotions, serums, etc. .., as opposed to “rinsed-out cosmetic compositions” intended for cleaning keratin materials (eg: shower gels, shampoos), intended to be rinsed off after application.
  • keratin materials according to the invention is understood to mean the skin and/or its appendages, and the lips. In particular, it will be the skin of the face, neck and/or body, and lips.
  • the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, as an agent for preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • the invention also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
  • the invention also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside.
  • the invention also relates to a process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
  • Leave-in cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum
  • the invention in its first aspect, relates to a leave-in cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
  • Dendrobium fimbriatum within the meaning of the invention is meant a plant of the family of orchids (Orchidaceae) and native to Southeast Asia. It is also known as Callista fimbriata, Dendrobium normal, Dendrobium fimbriatum var. oculatum, Dendrobium paxtonii, Callista oculata. We will speak in the rest of the description of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum or of Dendrobium fimbriatum var. eye.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is used in particular in leave-in cosmetic compositions as a cosmetic active ingredient and in particular as an “anti-aging” cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is a plant extract.
  • plant extract we generally mean an isolated substance, obtained by extraction from a plant raw material, and which does not pre-exist in nature as such.
  • plant material or “raw plant material” means all or part of the Dendrobium fimbriatum plant from which the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is prepared.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention can in particular be prepared from a plant material chosen from roots, stems, flowers, petals and mixtures thereof or from the whole plant.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is prepared from the whole plant.
  • the plant material Prior to the extraction step itself, the plant material can be dried, freeze-dried and/or ground. Alternatively, the plant material can be used wet and then ground. According to a particular mode, the plant material is ground before extraction, for example by means of a mortar, a mixer, a traditional grinder, or any other method conventionally used in the field and known to those skilled in the art. job.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is a polar extract, advantageously obtained by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent.
  • cosmetically acceptable is meant compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips.
  • the preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of the OH type.
  • a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen from water, C1- alcohols C4, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, propanediol and mixtures thereof.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is a hydroalcoholic extract, obtained by extraction of the plant material in a mixture of water and alcohol, the alcohol representing from 1% to 99% v/v ( volume/volume) of the water/alcohol mixture.
  • the plant material can be extracted using a mixture comprising 10% v/v water and 90% v/v alcohol; 20% v/v water and 80% v/v alcohol; 30% v/v water and 70% v/v alcohol; 40% v/v water and 60% v/v alcohol; 50% v/v water and 50% v/v alcohol; 60% v/v water and 40% v/v alcohol; 70% v/v water and 30% v/v alcohol; 80% v/v water and 20% v/v alcohol; 90% v/v water and 10% v/v alcohol.
  • the plant material is extracted using a mixture comprising 50% v/v water and 50% v/v alcohol.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained by extraction of the plant material in a mixture of water and ethanol, in particular a mixture comprising between 45% and 55% v/v of water and between 45 and 55% v/v ethanol, preferably 50% v/v water and 55% v/v ethanol.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention can be prepared by various extraction processes known to those skilled in the art, implementing steps of grinding the plant material, dispersing the ground material in a polar solvent, separating the soluble and insoluble phases by filtration, concentration and possible re-dissolution.
  • the extraction can be carried out hot by reflux or else by maceration at ambient temperature.
  • the extraction can also be done using well-known physicochemical techniques such as ultrasound, microwave, extrusion, pulsed electric field, subcritical water and/or cryo-extraction.
  • the extraction of the plant material is carried out hot by reflux.
  • heated is meant that the extraction temperature is at least 60° C., preferably at least 65° C., more preferably at least 70° C., preferably at least 75° C., preferably still at least 80°C.
  • the duration of the extraction may range in particular from 15 to 180 minutes, preferably from 30 to 120 minutes, preferably from 45 to 90 minutes, from 50 to 70 minutes, for example 50 , 55, 60, 65 or 70 minutes.
  • the extraction process advantageously includes a filtration step aimed at separating the liquid phase from the plant material.
  • a filtration step aimed at separating the liquid phase from the plant material.
  • suitable filtration sieves in particular with filtration diameters of 0.1 ⁇ m to 0.5 ⁇ m, in particular from 0.2 to 0.3 ⁇ m.
  • the extraction then filtration cycle can be repeated several times in order to deplete the plant material of substances with an affinity for the extraction solvent.
  • the extraction/filtration cycle can be repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times, or even four times or more, for example five times.
  • the solvent is collected and replaced by solvent not yet used in order to repeat the extraction step.
  • the successive repetition of extraction steps advantageously makes it possible to extract a maximum of compounds of interest from the plant material to be extracted, in particular by preventing the solvent from becoming saturated with molecules of interest.
  • the plant material Once the plant material has been depleted of substances with an affinity for the extraction solvent, the latter can be eliminated. Alternatively, it can be saved for other uses.
  • the extract can advantageously be concentrated by eliminating part of the extraction solvent. It is thus possible to obtain an aqueous concentrate devoid of a significant quantity of organic solvents or even, by eliminating all the extraction solvent, to obtain a dry residue.
  • the product of the extraction step can be freeze-dried or atomized to appear in the form of a powder.
  • the solvents collected at the end of each extraction/filtration cycle are combined, and the extract is concentrated under vacuum then the ethanol is then evaporated, at least partially. Finally, the concentrated extract is then diluted in propanediol then filtered before packaging.
  • suitable filtration sieves in particular with filtration diameters of 0.1 ⁇ m to 0.5 ⁇ m, in particular 0.2 ⁇ m.
  • packaging we mean the packaging of the extract obtained under conditions allowing its preservation, storage and handling.
  • the present invention therefore also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the plant material, preferably of the whole plant, dry; b) reflux extraction using a hydroalcoholic solvent; c) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc and the extract; d) optionally, 1 to 4 repetitions of steps b) and c) from the marc collected at the end of the previous extraction/filtration step and recovery at the end of each extraction/filtration step of a new extract ; e) assembly of the extracts collected at the end of each extraction/filtration step; f) evaporation of part of the extraction solvent and concentration of the extract under vacuum; g) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; h) filtration, and i) packaging of the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract.
  • a mixture of water and ethanol is used as hydroalcoholic solvent, in particular a mixture comprising between 45% and 55% v/v of water and between 45 and 55% v/v of ethanol, preferably 50% v/v water and 50% v/v ethanol.
  • the extraction of the plant material by reflux is carried out hot, in particular at a temperature of at least 60° C., preferably at least 65° C., more preferably at least 70° C., preferably at least 75°C, more preferably at least 80°C.
  • the duration of the extraction for each extraction/filtration cycle is between 15 and 180 minutes, preferably between 30 and 120 minutes, preferably between 45 and 90 minutes, between 50 and 70 minutes, for example 50, 55, 60, 65 or 70 minutes.
  • the filtration steps use filtration screens with filtration diameters of 0.1 ⁇ m to 0.5 ⁇ m, in particular 0.2 to 0.3 ⁇ m.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the dry plant, preferably of the whole plant; b) extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80°C for 1 h; c) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 1 and extract X; d) extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 hour; e) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 2 and extract Y; f) extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract obtained according to the extraction process of the invention has the INCI name: WATER (and) PROPANEDIOL (and) DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM OCULATUM EXTRACT.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention in the form of a solution, comprises approximately 1% of dry matter, approximately 35% of propanediol and approximately 64% water.
  • the percentages given are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the extract.
  • approximately it is meant that the proportions measured can vary by +/- 10%, preferably +/- 5% and more preferably +/- 2%.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention in particular obtained according to the method described above, comprises a total content of minerals ranging from 300 to 1000 ppm (in particular phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, sodium and potassium), measured by the method EN ISO 17294-2 - ICP-MS.
  • ppm in particular phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, sodium and potassium
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention comprises sugars in a content ranging from 0.1% to 0.5%, measured by the anthrone method (Loewus, 1952).
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract comprises polyphenols in a content ranging from 0.1% to 0.5%, measured by the Folin Ciocalteu method (Ainsworth, 2007).
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum obtained by the process described above is characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside.
  • the invention therefore also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is obtained according to an extraction process as described above.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the dry plant, preferably of the whole plant; b) extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h; c) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc 1 and of the extract X; d) extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h; e) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc 2 and of the extract Y; f) extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside, in particular betaine.
  • the invention also relates to a process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
  • the process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum comprises at least the following steps: a) grinding of the plant material, preferably of the whole plant, dry; b) reflux extraction using a hydroalcoholic solvent; c) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc and the extract; d) optionally, 1 to 4 repetitions of steps b) and c) from the marc collected at the end of the previous extraction/filtration step and recovery at the end of each extraction/filtration step of a new excerpt; e) assembly of the extracts collected at the end of each extraction/filtration step; f) evaporation of the extraction solvent and concentration of the extract under vacuum; g) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; h) filtration, and i) conditioning.
  • a hydroalcoholic solvent is used, a mixture of water and ethanol, in particular a mixture comprising between 45% and 55% v/v of water and between 45 and 55% v/v of ethanol, preferably 50 % v/v water and 55% v/v ethanol.
  • the extraction of the plant material by reflux is carried out hot, in particular at a temperature of at least 60° C., preferably at least 65° C., more preferably at least 70° C., preferably at least 75°C, more preferably at least 80°C.
  • the duration of the extraction for each extraction/filtration cycle is between 30 and 120 minutes, preferably between 45 and 90 minutes, between 50 and 70 minutes, such as for example 50, 55, 60, 65 or 70 minutes. .
  • the filtration steps use filtration screens with filtration diameters of 0.1 ⁇ m to 0.5 ⁇ m, in particular 0.2 ⁇ m.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the dry plant, preferably of the whole plant; b) extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80°C for 1 hour; c) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 1 and extract X; d) extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 hour; e) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 2 and extract Y; f) extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is used in cosmetic compositions in an effective amount to obtain the desired effect.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is present in said cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.2% to 5%, preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, corresponding to a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1%, preferably from 0.002% to 0.05%, more preferably from 0.003% to 0.03 % by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is the product marketed under the name FINGE GOLD ORCHID.
  • said cosmetic composition comprising the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the or neck.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one other plant extract, such as for example an orchid extract of the species Gastrodia elata, and preferably the INCI name extract: GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT.
  • the extract of Gastrodia elata is present in the compositions of the invention in an effective quantity to obtain the desired effect, in particular to make it possible to prevent and/or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss elasticity, reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • said extract of Gastrodia elata is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 5%, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight of raw material ( weight of product) relative to the total weight of the composition, corresponding to a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1%, preferably from 0.0002% to 0.05%, more preferably from 0.0005% to 0.04% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention and in addition one or more cosmetic excipients acceptable from those known to those skilled in the art with a view to obtaining a composition for topical application, for example in the form of milk, cream, ointment, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, balm, stick, gel, lotion, serum, or more powder.
  • one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients will be selected from polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, perfumes, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, colorants , nacres, pigments and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may be in any galenic form suitable for topical application to keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or lips and in particular of the skin of the face and/or neck, comprising, in addition to the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention, at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidants, emollients, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic processes and cosmetic uses described below are intended for application to keratin materials, in particular healthy keratin materials, preferably healthy skin and/or lips and in particular healthy lips (“healthy” subjects).
  • healthy keratin materials is meant keratin materials not exhibiting disorders or disorders that would be part of a pathological state (“non-healthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology). Reference will be made indiscriminately to healthy skin and/or lips or to healthy skin and/or lips in the rest of the description.
  • the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention is capable of significantly increasing the synthesis of several proteins of the extracellular matrix, in particular elastin, fibrillin 1, collagen 1 and the nidogen.
  • the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention therefore has cosmetic interest, in particular as an “anti-aging” cosmetic active ingredient.
  • anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient is meant that the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention is effective in preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction of the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines, increase cell longevity
  • the invention also relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, as described above as an agent for preventing and/or reduce the signs of skin ageing, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • the invention relates to the use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it is marketed under the name FINGE GOLD ORCHID.
  • the invention relates to the use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material ; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
  • the invention relates to the use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from cis and trans betaine and melilotoside, in particular betaine.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as described below. above.
  • the cosmetic composition used in the cosmetic uses or processes of the invention further comprises an orchid extract of the species Gastrodia elata, and preferably the extract with INCI name: GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT.
  • the cosmetic process is intended to prevent and/or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.
  • the cosmetic composition is applied to aged skin or skin showing signs of ageing.
  • the invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples.
  • the percentages (%) are expressed by weight of raw material (MP) relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
  • Step 1 grinding the whole, dry Dendrobium fimbriatum plant
  • Stage 2 extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h;
  • Step 3 filtration allowing the recovery of marc 1 and extract X;
  • Step 4 extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80°C for Ih;
  • Step 5 filtration allowing the recovery of marc 2 and extract Y;
  • Stage 6 extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h;
  • Step 7 filtration allowing the recovery of marc 3 and extract Z;
  • Step 8 collection of extracts X, Y and Z;
  • Step 9 evaporation of the ethanol and concentration of the extract under vacuum
  • Step 11 filtration, and
  • Step 12 conditioning of the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract.
  • the extract thus obtained bears the INCI name: WATER/AQUA, PROPANEDIOL DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM OCULATUM EXTRACT. Its dry matter content is 1%, it includes 35% propanediol and 64% water.
  • EXAMPLE 2 Phytochemical characterization of the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum prepared according to Example 1.
  • the dry extract dissolved beforehand in a stationary phase/mobile phase mixture, is injected in CPC into a previously equilibrated column (FCPE300® (Rousselet Robatel Kromaton)).
  • FCPE300® Rocket Robatel Kromaton
  • the flow rate was 20 mL/min and the column rotation speed was 1200 rpm.
  • the three-phase solvent system corresponds to n-heptane/methyl-ter-butyl-ether/acetonitrile/water (l/l/l/l, v/v), the separation is carried out in ascending mode.
  • the dry extract dissolved beforehand in a stationary phase/mobile phase mixture, is injected in CPC into a previously balanced column (FCPE300® (Rousselet Robatel Kromaton)).
  • FCPE300® Rocket Robatel Kromaton
  • the flow rate was 20 mL/min and the column rotation speed was 1200 rpm.
  • the three-phase solvent system corresponds to n-heptane/methyl-ter-butyl-ether/acetonitrile/water (l/l/l/l, v/v), the separation is carried out in ascending mode.
  • each 13C NMR chemical shift cluster obtained by HCA was manually submitted to the structure search engine of the ACD/NMR Workbook Suite 2012 database management software (ACD/Labs, Ontario, Canada). understanding the structures and predicted chemical shifts of low molecular weight natural products. 2D NMR experiments (HSQC,
  • HMBC and COZY were carried out on fractions containing supposedly identified compounds in order to confirm the molecular structures proposed by the database at the end of the dereplication process.
  • the crude extract was fractionated by the CPC technique into a total of 13 fractions during two successive experiments.
  • the less polar fractions F1-F4 (representing approximately 3.8% of the mass of the crude extract) were composed of long alkyl chains (fatty acids or alcohols).
  • the moderately polar F5-F10 fractions (representing about 21.6% of the mass of the crude extract) contained a variety of polyphenols (melilotic acid, dendrophenol, dihydromelilotoside), as well as coumarin, syringaldehyde and several phenolic acids such as ortho-coumaric acid, vanillic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and 3-hydroxy-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-propanoic acid.
  • EXAMPLE 3 Effect of Dendrobium fimbriatum on the expression of dermal extracellular matrix markers in Normal Human Fibroblasts
  • Normal Human Fibroblasts are derived from an abdominoplasty from a 37-year-old female donor. The cells were seeded in DMEM 1 g/L glucose medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum at passage 5 (P5) with a seeding density of 15,000 cells per well, in 96-well plates.
  • the dry extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum was used at a concentration of 50 ug/ml in ethanol
  • the cells were rinsed three times with PBS (PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO), then fixed with formalin (Formalin Solution 10% Neutral Buffered, Sigma) for 10 minutes. After 3 rinses with PBS, the membranes of the cells were permeabilized or not (depending on the marker studied) with a solution of PBS Triton 0.1% (Triton X-100, Sigma). Then they were again rinsed 3 times with PBS.
  • PBS PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO
  • formalin Formin Solution 10% Neutral Buffered, Sigma
  • the cells were covered with a 1% PBS/BSA solution (Albumin, from bovine serum, Sigma), for 30 minutes and at room temperature.
  • PBS/BSA solution Albumin, from bovine serum, Sigma
  • the 1% PBS/BSA solution was then replaced with a primary antibody solution corresponding to each labeled protein (see Table 1) diluted in 1% PBS/BSA. Plates were incubated overnight at 4°C.
  • the cells were then rinsed three times with PBS and covered with a solution of secondary antibody according to the primary antibody to be targeted (see Table 1) and DAPI at 1/1000th (4',6'-diamidino-2- phenylindole, dihydrochloride, Invitrogen Molecular Probes) diluted in PBS/BSA 1%. The plates were kept for one hour in the dark and at room temperature.
  • the secondary antibody solution was then aspirated and the cells rinsed twice with PBS and once with distilled water. PBS was deposited in each well at the rate of ImL. Plates were stored at 4°C in the dark until image acquisition.
  • Table 2 List of primary antibodies and conditions of use
  • the plates were scanned with the ArrayScan XTi from Thermo Cellomics.
  • Alexa Fluor 568 filter XF53_572_15
  • the images were then analyzed using arrayscan system analysis software by the Spot detector bio-application.
  • This program makes it possible to detect the red marking of the targeted protein, corresponding to its expression.
  • the surface of the measurement area is delimited as being the entire surface of the image.
  • the number of cells was determined by counting the nuclei by detecting the blue labeling of DAPI.
  • results can be expressed by:
  • this method made it possible to have a general quantification of the synthesis of the marker studied without taking account of the structure.
  • the Student test is said to be significant if its value is less than 0.05.
  • Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is capable of significantly increasing the synthesis of several components of the extracellular matrix of the cutaneous environment.
  • This extract is therefore of cosmetic interest for use in connection with the physiological functions of the skin, in particular preventing and/or preventing the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity of the skin, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, and /or the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • Fibroblasts from the dermis of a donor were cultured and aged through a series of passages that gave them an aged phenotype (senescent fibroblast model).
  • Some morphological markers of senescence were measured by flow cytometry. This technique advantageously makes it possible to study at very high speed and in a quantitative manner the optical characteristics (fluorescence, light scattering linked to cell morphology, etc.) of a large number of cells (several tens of thousands). It is therefore possible to derive statistically significant data.
  • the cells to be studied were suspended in a medium. In the cytometer, the cells are sent one by one into an analysis chamber where they are subjected to several laser beams which make it possible to measure or evaluate cellular parameters. The diffracted light measured in front of the laser beam makes it possible to evaluate the size of the cells (parameter Forward SCatter, FSC).
  • the scattered light measured from the side (Side SCatter SSC parameter) gives a measure of the granularity of the cell.
  • This granularity corresponds to the complexity of the cell, for example the density of organelles, protein aggregates, internal or surface irregularities. With senescence, the size and granularity of cells increase, particularly following oxidative damage to organelles, the accumulation of lipofuscin, or even damage to macromolecules.
  • this extract can be used as an anti-aging active.
  • this composition has remarkable anti-ageing efficacy, in particular to prevent the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin of the face and neck.
  • this composition provides a firming and smoothing anti-ageing action.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a no-rinse cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular on the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or of the neck, comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.

Description

DESCRIPTION DESCRIPTION
TITRE : Extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum et composition cosmétique non rincée en comprenant TITLE: Dendrobium fimbriatum extract and leave-on cosmetic composition comprising
DOMAINE TECHNIQUE DE L’INVENTION TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
La présente invention concerne le domaine de la cosmétique. Elle concerne notamment une composition cosmétique non rincée comprenant un extrait d’orchidée de l’espèce de Dendrobium fimbriatum, ainsi que son utilisation pour prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané. Elle concerne également un extrait particulier de Dendrobium fimbriatum et un procédé d’extraction pour obtenir un tel extrait. The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates in particular to a leave-in cosmetic composition comprising an orchid extract of the species Dendrobium fimbriatum, as well as its use for preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin ageing. It also relates to a particular extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum and to an extraction process for obtaining such an extract.
ETAT DE LA TECHNIQUE STATE OF THE ART
La peau est la première barrière de protection de l'organisme vis-à-vis de l'environnement. Elle est donc soumise à de nombreux facteurs susceptibles d’induire des signes du vieillissement cutané, qu’ils soient d’origine exogène (ex : rayonnements UV, variations de température, pollution atmosphérique, fumée de cigarette...) ou endogène (ex : hormones...). On parlera de vieillissement extrinsèque et vieillissement intrinsèque (ou physiologique), respectivement. The skin is the body's first protective barrier against the environment. It is therefore subject to many factors likely to induce signs of skin aging, whether of exogenous origin (eg: UV radiation, temperature variations, atmospheric pollution, cigarette smoke, etc.) or endogenous (eg : hormone...). We will talk about extrinsic aging and intrinsic (or physiological) aging, respectively.
Le vieillissement extrinsèque entraîne des altérations cliniques telles que des rides profondes et la formation d’une peau ayant perdu sa fermeté, sa souplesse et son élasticité, et l’apparition de tâches pigmentaires cutanées, autrement nommées tâches de vieillesse. De façon concomitante, le vieillissement intrinsèque ou physiologique provoque notamment un ralentissement du renouvellement des cellules de la peau et une altération de la jonction dermo-épidermique. Cette dernière est essentielle à l’ancrage des cellules de l’épiderme sur le tissu sous-jacent, le derme. La matrice extracellulaire (MEC) est un réseau complexe composé d’un ensemble de macromolécules organisées de manière spécifique qui se lient les unes aux autres. Au niveau de la peau, elle confère des propriétés d’élasticité, de résistance et de compressibilité d’une part et d’autre part, régule diverses fonctions cellulaires telles que la prolifération, la migration ou la différenciation de cellules cutanées. Ainsi, la MEC au niveau du derme joue des rôles essentiels dans la physiologie de la peau. Son altération va directement impacter la qualité de la peau, ce qui se traduit essentiellement par une perte de fermeté, d’élasticité ainsi que l'apparition de fines rides ou ridules. Extrinsic aging leads to clinical alterations such as deep wrinkles and the formation of skin that has lost its firmness, suppleness and elasticity, and the appearance of cutaneous pigment spots, otherwise known as age spots. Concomitantly, intrinsic or physiological aging in particular causes a slowing down of skin cell renewal and an alteration of the dermo-epidermal junction. The latter is essential for anchoring the cells of the epidermis to the underlying tissue, the dermis. The extracellular matrix (ECM) is a complex network composed of a set of specifically organized macromolecules that bind to each other. At the level of the skin, it confers properties of elasticity, resistance and compressibility on the one hand and on the other hand, regulates various cellular functions such as the proliferation, migration or differentiation of cutaneous cells. Thus, the ECM at the level of the dermis plays essential roles in the physiology of the skin. Its alteration will directly impact the quality of the skin, which translates essentially by a loss of firmness, elasticity as well as the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles.
Dans ce contexte, il existe un besoin constant de trouver de nouveaux actifs « anti-âge » qui agissent sur des cibles biologiques particulières pour prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané. In this context, there is a constant need to find new “anti-aging” active ingredients which act on specific biological targets to prevent and/or reduce the signs of skin ageing.
De manière inattendue, la Demanderesse a mis en évidence in vitro les effets d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum sur certaines protéines de la MEC dermique. En particulier, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention est capable d’augmenter de manière significative la synthèse d’élastine, de fibrilline 1, de collagène 1 et le nidogène. En outre, cet extrait permet également de diminuer in vitro les marqueurs morphologiques de la sénescence des fibroblastes. Ainsi, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention présente un intérêt cosmétique comme actif anti-âge, en particulier pour à prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement tels que la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules. Unexpectedly, the Applicant demonstrated in vitro the effects of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum on certain proteins of the dermal ECM. In particular, the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is capable of significantly increasing the synthesis of elastin, fibrillin 1, collagen 1 and nidogen. In addition, this extract also makes it possible to reduce in vitro the morphological markers of fibroblast senescence. Thus, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention is of cosmetic interest as an anti-ageing active ingredient, in particular for preventing and/or reducing the signs of aging such as loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
RESUME DE L’INVENTION SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Le premier objet de l’invention porte sur une composition cosmétique non rincée pour une application topique sur les matières kératiniques, en particulier sur la peau et/ou les lèvres et notamment la peau du visage et/ou du cou, comprenant un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. The first object of the invention relates to a leave-in cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
On entend par « composition cosmétique non rincée » selon l’invention une composition de soin destinée à rester en contact avec les matières kératiniques après application, pour conférer son effet bénéfique (hydratant, anti-âge. ..), comme par exemple les laits, crèmes, pommades, baumes, sticks, gels, lotions, sérums, etc. .., par opposition aux « compositions cosmétiques rincées » destinées au nettoyage des matières kératiniques (ex : gels douche, shampoings), destinées à être rincées après application. The term “leave-in cosmetic composition” according to the invention is understood to mean a care composition intended to remain in contact with keratin materials after application, to confer its beneficial effect (moisturizing, anti-aging, etc.), such as, for example, milks , creams, ointments, balms, sticks, gels, lotions, serums, etc. .., as opposed to “rinsed-out cosmetic compositions” intended for cleaning keratin materials (eg: shower gels, shampoos), intended to be rinsed off after application.
On entend par « matières kératiniques » selon l’invention la peau et/ou ses phanères, et les lèvres. En particulier, il s’agira de la peau du visage, du cou et/ou du corps, et des lèvres.The term “keratin materials” according to the invention is understood to mean the skin and/or its appendages, and the lips. In particular, it will be the skin of the face, neck and/or body, and lips.
L’invention porte encore sur l’utilisation cosmétique d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, comme agent pour prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, as an agent for preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
L’invention porte aussi sur un procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau et/ou des lèvres, comprenant l’application topique sur lesdites matières kératiniques, d’une composition cosmétique selon l’invention. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.
L’invention porte également sur un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, caractérisé en ce qu’il est obtenu par un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes de : a) broyage de la matière végétale ; b) au moins une étape d’extraction suivie d’une étape filtration ; c) concentration de l’extrait obtenu à l’issue de l’étape b) ; d) ajout de butylène glycol, pentylène glycol, sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence propanediol ; e) filtration, et f) obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. The invention also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
L’invention porte aussi sur un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend au moins un métabolite choisi parmi la bétaïne et le melilotoside cis et trans.The invention also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside.
L’invention concerne encore un procédé d’obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum comprenant au moins les étapes de : a) broyage de la matière végétale ; b) au moins une étape d’extraction suivie d’une étape filtration ; c) concentration de l’extrait obtenu à l’issue de l’étape b) ; d) ajout de butylène glycol, pentylène glycol, sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence propanediol ; e) filtration, et f) obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. The invention also relates to a process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
DESCRIPTION DETAILLEE DE L’INVENTION DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Composition cosmétique non rincée comprenant un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatumLeave-in cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum
Dans son premier aspect, l’invention porte sur une composition cosmétique non rincée pour une application topique sur les matières kératiniques, en particulier sur la peau et/ou les lèvres et notamment la peau du visage et/ou du cou, comprenant un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. Par « Dendrobium fimbriatum » au sens de 1’invention on entend une plante de la famille des orchidées (Orchidaceae) et originaire d’Asie du sud-est. Elle est également connue sous le nom Callista fimbriata, Dendrobium normale, Dendrobium fimbriatum var. oculatum, Dendrobium paxtonii, Callista oculata. On parlera dans le reste de la description d’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum ou de Dendrobium fimbriatum var. oculatum. In its first aspect, the invention relates to a leave-in cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum. By “Dendrobium fimbriatum” within the meaning of the invention is meant a plant of the family of orchids (Orchidaceae) and native to Southeast Asia. It is also known as Callista fimbriata, Dendrobium normal, Dendrobium fimbriatum var. oculatum, Dendrobium paxtonii, Callista oculata. We will speak in the rest of the description of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum or of Dendrobium fimbriatum var. eye.
Selon la présente invention, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est notamment utilisé dans des compositions cosmétiques non rincées comme actif cosmétique et en particulier comme actif cosmétique « anti-âge ». According to the present invention, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is used in particular in leave-in cosmetic compositions as a cosmetic active ingredient and in particular as an “anti-aging” cosmetic active ingredient.
L’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention est un extrait végétal. Par « extrait végétal », on entend de manière générale une substance isolée, obtenue par extraction à partir d’une matière première végétale, et qui ne préexiste pas dans la nature en tant que telle. The Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is a plant extract. By "plant extract", we generally mean an isolated substance, obtained by extraction from a plant raw material, and which does not pre-exist in nature as such.
On entend par « matière végétale » ou « matière première végétale » tout ou partie de la plante Dendrobium fimbriatum à partir de laquelle est préparé l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention. The term “plant material” or “raw plant material” means all or part of the Dendrobium fimbriatum plant from which the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is prepared.
L’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention peut notamment être préparé à partir d’une matière végétale choisie parmi, les racines, les tiges, les fleurs, les pétales et leurs mélanges ou à partir de la plante entière. De préférence, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention est préparé à partir de la plante entière. The Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention can in particular be prepared from a plant material chosen from roots, stems, flowers, petals and mixtures thereof or from the whole plant. Preferably, the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is prepared from the whole plant.
Préalablement à l’étape d’extraction elle-même, la matière végétale peut être séchée, lyophilisée et/ou broyée. Alternativement, la matière végétale peut être utilisée humide puis broyée. Selon un mode particulier, la matière végétale est broyée avant extraction, par exemple au moyen d’un mortier, d’un mixeur, d’un broyeur traditionnel, ou de toute autre méthode classiquement utilisée dans le domaine et connue de l’homme du métier. Prior to the extraction step itself, the plant material can be dried, freeze-dried and/or ground. Alternatively, the plant material can be used wet and then ground. According to a particular mode, the plant material is ground before extraction, for example by means of a mortar, a mixer, a traditional grinder, or any other method conventionally used in the field and known to those skilled in the art. job.
Selon l’invention, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est un extrait polaire, obtenu avantageusement au moyen d’un solvant polaire cosmétiquement acceptable. Par « cosmétiquement acceptable », on entend compatible avec les matières kératiniques, en particulier la peau et/ou les lèvres. According to the invention, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is a polar extract, advantageously obtained by means of a cosmetically acceptable polar solvent. By “cosmetically acceptable”, is meant compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips.
Les solvants polaires préférés sont ceux constitués d’un composé comprenant au moins une liaison covalente polaire de type O-H. A titre de solvant polaire particulièrement préféré, on choisit un solvant ou un mélange de solvants choisi(s) parmi l’eau, les alcools en Cl- C4, tel que l’éthanol, les glycols, tels que l’éthylène glycol, le glycérol, le butylène glycol et le propylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, le sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, le propanediol et leurs mélanges. The preferred polar solvents are those consisting of a compound comprising at least one polar covalent bond of the OH type. As particularly preferred polar solvent, a solvent or a mixture of solvents chosen from water, C1- alcohols C4, such as ethanol, glycols, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol and propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, propanediol and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est un extrait hydroalcoolique, obtenu par extraction de la matière végétale dans un mélange d’eau et d’alcool, l’alcool représentant de 1% à 99% v/v (volume/volume) du mélange eau/alcool. A titre d’exemples non limitatif, on peut extraire le matériel végétal à l’aide d’un mélange comprenant 10% v/v d’eau et 90% v/v d’alcool ; 20% v/v d’eau et 80% v/v d’alcool ; 30% v/v d’eau et 70% v/v d’alcool ; 40% v/v d’eau et 60% v/v d’alcool ; 50% v/v d’eau et 50% v/v d’alcool ; 60% v/v d’eau et 40% v/v d’alcool ; 70% v/v d’eau et 30% v/v d’alcool ; 80% v/v d’eau et 20% v/v d’alcool ; 90% v/v d’eau et 10% v/v d’alcool. Selon un mode de réalisation préféré le matériel végétal est extrait à l’aide d’un mélange comprenant 50% v/v d’eau et 50% v/v d’alcool. According to a preferred embodiment, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is a hydroalcoholic extract, obtained by extraction of the plant material in a mixture of water and alcohol, the alcohol representing from 1% to 99% v/v ( volume/volume) of the water/alcohol mixture. By way of non-limiting examples, the plant material can be extracted using a mixture comprising 10% v/v water and 90% v/v alcohol; 20% v/v water and 80% v/v alcohol; 30% v/v water and 70% v/v alcohol; 40% v/v water and 60% v/v alcohol; 50% v/v water and 50% v/v alcohol; 60% v/v water and 40% v/v alcohol; 70% v/v water and 30% v/v alcohol; 80% v/v water and 20% v/v alcohol; 90% v/v water and 10% v/v alcohol. According to a preferred embodiment, the plant material is extracted using a mixture comprising 50% v/v water and 50% v/v alcohol.
De préférence, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est obtenu par extraction de la matière végétale dans un mélange d’eau et d’éthanol, notamment un mélange comprenant entre 45% et 55% v/v d’eau et entre 45 et 55% v/v d’éthanol, de préférence 50% v/v d’eau et 55% v/v d’éthanol. Preferably, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained by extraction of the plant material in a mixture of water and ethanol, in particular a mixture comprising between 45% and 55% v/v of water and between 45 and 55% v/v ethanol, preferably 50% v/v water and 55% v/v ethanol.
L’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention peut être préparé par différents procédés d’extraction connus de l’homme du métier, mettant en œuvre des étapes de broyage du matériel végétal, dispersion de la matière broyée dans un solvant polaire, séparation des phases soluble et insoluble par filtration, concentration et éventuelle remise en solution. The Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention can be prepared by various extraction processes known to those skilled in the art, implementing steps of grinding the plant material, dispersing the ground material in a polar solvent, separating the soluble and insoluble phases by filtration, concentration and possible re-dissolution.
Selon l’invention l’extraction peut être menée à chaud par reflux ou bien par macération à température ambiante. L’extraction peut également être faite à l’aide de techniques physicochimiques bien connues telles que notamment les ultrasons, micro-ondes, extrusion, champ électrique pulsé, eau subcritique et/ou cryo-extraction. According to the invention, the extraction can be carried out hot by reflux or else by maceration at ambient temperature. The extraction can also be done using well-known physicochemical techniques such as ultrasound, microwave, extrusion, pulsed electric field, subcritical water and/or cryo-extraction.
De préférence, l’extraction de la matière végétale est menée à chaud par reflux. Par « menée à chaud » on entend que la température d’extraction est d’au moins 60°C, de préférence au moins 65°C, de préférence encore au moins 70°C, de préférence au moins 75°C, de préférence encore au moins 80°C. Dans le cas d’une extraction par reflux, la durée de l’extraction pourra aller notamment de 15 à 180 minutes, de préférence de 30 à 120 minutes, de préférence de 45 à 90 minutes, de 50 à 70 minutes comme par exemple 50, 55, 60, 65 ou 70 minutes. Preferably, the extraction of the plant material is carried out hot by reflux. By "heated" is meant that the extraction temperature is at least 60° C., preferably at least 65° C., more preferably at least 70° C., preferably at least 75° C., preferably still at least 80°C. In the case of extraction by reflux, the duration of the extraction may range in particular from 15 to 180 minutes, preferably from 30 to 120 minutes, preferably from 45 to 90 minutes, from 50 to 70 minutes, for example 50 , 55, 60, 65 or 70 minutes.
Le procédé d’extraction comprend avantageusement une étape de filtration visant à séparer la phase liquide du matériel végétal. L’homme du métier choisira des tamis de filtration adaptés, en particulier avec des diamètres de filtration de 0,1 um à 0,5 um, notamment de 0,2 à 0,3pm. The extraction process advantageously includes a filtration step aimed at separating the liquid phase from the plant material. Those skilled in the art will choose suitable filtration sieves, in particular with filtration diameters of 0.1 μm to 0.5 μm, in particular from 0.2 to 0.3 μm.
On peut reproduire le cycle d’extraction puis filtration, plusieurs fois afin d’épuiser le matériel végétal des substances ayant une affinité pour le solvant d’extraction. Notamment, le cycle d’extraction/filtration peut être répété au moins deux fois et de préférence au moins trois fois, voire quatre fois ou plus comme par exemple cinq fois. The extraction then filtration cycle can be repeated several times in order to deplete the plant material of substances with an affinity for the extraction solvent. In particular, the extraction/filtration cycle can be repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times, or even four times or more, for example five times.
A la fin de chaque cycle d’extraction/filtration le solvant est collecté et remplacé par du solvant non encore utilisé en vue de répéter l’étape d’extraction. La répétition successive d’étapes d’extraction permet avantageusement d’extraire un maximum de composés d’intérêts à partir de la matière végétale à extraire, notamment en évitant que le solvant ne se sature en molécules d’intérêt. At the end of each extraction/filtration cycle, the solvent is collected and replaced by solvent not yet used in order to repeat the extraction step. The successive repetition of extraction steps advantageously makes it possible to extract a maximum of compounds of interest from the plant material to be extracted, in particular by preventing the solvent from becoming saturated with molecules of interest.
A la fin des étapes successives d’extraction, les différents solvants collectés sont alors rassemblés. At the end of the successive extraction steps, the different solvents collected are then combined.
Une fois le matériel végétal épuisé en substances ayant une affinité pour le solvant d’extraction, ce dernier peut être éliminé. Alternativement, il peut être conservé pour d’autres utilisations. Once the plant material has been depleted of substances with an affinity for the extraction solvent, the latter can be eliminated. Alternatively, it can be saved for other uses.
On peut avantageusement concentrer l’extrait en éliminant une partie du solvant d’extraction. On peut ainsi obtenir un concentré aqueux dépourvu d’une quantité significative de solvants organiques ou bien encore, en éliminant tout le solvant d’extraction, obtenir un résidu sec. The extract can advantageously be concentrated by eliminating part of the extraction solvent. It is thus possible to obtain an aqueous concentrate devoid of a significant quantity of organic solvents or even, by eliminating all the extraction solvent, to obtain a dry residue.
De façon alternative, le produit de l’étape d’extraction peut être, lyophilisé ou atomisé pour se présenter sous la forme d’une poudre. Alternatively, the product of the extraction step can be freeze-dried or atomized to appear in the form of a powder.
De manière préférée, les solvants collectés à l’issue de chaque cycle d’extraction/filtration sont assemblés, et l’extrait est concentré sous vide puis l’éthanol est alors évaporé, au moins partiellement. Enfin, l’extrait concentré est ensuite dilué dans du propanediol puis filtré avant conditionnement. L’homme du métier choisira des tamis de filtration adaptés, en particulier avec des diamètres de filtration de 0,1 um à 0,5 um, notamment de 0,2 um.Preferably, the solvents collected at the end of each extraction/filtration cycle are combined, and the extract is concentrated under vacuum then the ethanol is then evaporated, at least partially. Finally, the concentrated extract is then diluted in propanediol then filtered before packaging. A person skilled in the art will choose suitable filtration sieves, in particular with filtration diameters of 0.1 μm to 0.5 μm, in particular 0.2 μm.
Par « conditionnement », on entend l’emballage de l’extrait obtenu dans des conditions permettant sa conservation, son stockage et sa manutention. By "packaging", we mean the packaging of the extract obtained under conditions allowing its preservation, storage and handling.
La présente invention porte donc également sur un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum caractérisé en ce qu’il est obtenu par un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes de : a) broyage de la matière végétale ; b) au moins une étape d’extraction suivie d’une étape filtration ; c) concentration de l’extrait obtenu à l’issue de l’étape b) ; d) ajout de butylène glycol, pentylène glycol, sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence propanediol ; e) filtration, et f) obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. The present invention therefore also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
Selon un mode particulier de l’invention, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est obtenu selon un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes : a) broyage de la matière végétale, de préférence de la plante entière, sèche ; b) extraction à reflux au moyen d’un solvant hydroalcoolique ; c) filtration permettant la récupération du marc et de l’extrait ; d) optionnellement, 1 à 4 répétitions des étapes b) et c) à partir du marc collecté à la fin de l’étape d’extraction/filtration précédente et récupération à l’issue chaque étape d’extraction/filtration d’un nouvel extrait ; e) assemblage des extraits collectés à l’issue de chaque étape d’extraction/filtration ; f) évaporation d’une partie du solvant d’extraction et concentration de l’extrait sous vide ; g) ajout de butylène glycol, pentylène glycol, sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence de propanediol ; h) filtration, et i) conditionnement de l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. De préférence on utilise comme solvant hydroalcoolique un mélange d’eau et d’éthanol, notamment un mélange comprenant entre 45% et 55% v/v d’eau et entre 45 et 55% v/v d’éthanol, de préférence 50% v/v d’eau et 50% v/v d’éthanol. According to a particular mode of the invention, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the plant material, preferably of the whole plant, dry; b) reflux extraction using a hydroalcoholic solvent; c) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc and the extract; d) optionally, 1 to 4 repetitions of steps b) and c) from the marc collected at the end of the previous extraction/filtration step and recovery at the end of each extraction/filtration step of a new extract ; e) assembly of the extracts collected at the end of each extraction/filtration step; f) evaporation of part of the extraction solvent and concentration of the extract under vacuum; g) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; h) filtration, and i) packaging of the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract. Preferably, a mixture of water and ethanol is used as hydroalcoholic solvent, in particular a mixture comprising between 45% and 55% v/v of water and between 45 and 55% v/v of ethanol, preferably 50% v/v water and 50% v/v ethanol.
De préférence, l’extraction de la matière végétale par reflux est menée à chaud, notamment à une température d’au moins 60°C, de préférence au moins 65°C, de préférence encore au moins 70°C, de préférence au moins 75°C, de préférence encore au moins 80°C. Preferably, the extraction of the plant material by reflux is carried out hot, in particular at a temperature of at least 60° C., preferably at least 65° C., more preferably at least 70° C., preferably at least 75°C, more preferably at least 80°C.
De préférence la durée de l’extraction pour chaque cycle d’extraction/fïltration est comprise entre 15 et 180 minutes, de préférence entre 30 et 120 minutes, de préférence entre 45 et 90 minutes, entre 50 et 70 minutes comme par exemple 50, 55, 60, 65 ou 70 minutes. Preferably, the duration of the extraction for each extraction/filtration cycle is between 15 and 180 minutes, preferably between 30 and 120 minutes, preferably between 45 and 90 minutes, between 50 and 70 minutes, for example 50, 55, 60, 65 or 70 minutes.
De préférence, les étapes de filtrations utilisent des tamis de filtration avec des diamètres de filtration de 0,1 um à 0,5 um, notamment de 0,2 à 0,3 um. Preferably, the filtration steps use filtration screens with filtration diameters of 0.1 μm to 0.5 μm, in particular 0.2 to 0.3 μm.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré de l’invention, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est obtenu selon un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes : a) broyage du végétal sec, de préférence de la plante entière ; b) extraction à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; c) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 1 et de l’extrait X ; d) extraction du marc 1 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; e) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 2 et de l’extrait Y ; f) extraction du marc 2 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; g) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 3 et de l’extrait Z ; h) rassemblement des extraits X, Y et Z ; i) évaporation de l’éthanol et concentration de l’extrait sous vide ; j) ajout de propanediol ; k) filtration, et l) conditionnement de l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. According to a particular and preferred mode of the invention, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the dry plant, preferably of the whole plant; b) extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80°C for 1 h; c) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 1 and extract X; d) extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 hour; e) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 2 and extract Y; f) extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h; g) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 3 and extract Z; h) collection of extracts X, Y and Z; i) evaporation of the ethanol and concentration of the extract under vacuum; j) addition of propanediol; k) filtration, and l) packaging of the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract.
L’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum obtenu selon le procédé d’extraction de l’invention a comme nom INCI : WATER (and) PROPANEDIOL (and) DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM OCULATUM EXTRACT. The Dendrobium fimbriatum extract obtained according to the extraction process of the invention has the INCI name: WATER (and) PROPANEDIOL (and) DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM OCULATUM EXTRACT.
De préférence, l’extrait Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention, sous forme d’une solution, comprend environ 1% de matière sèche, environ 35% de propanediol et environ 64% d’eau. Les pourcentages donnés sont des pourcentages en poids par rapport au poids total de l’extrait. Par « environ », on entend que les proportions mesurées peuvent varier de +/- 10%, de préférence +/- 5% et de préférence encore +/- 2%. Preferably, the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention, in the form of a solution, comprises approximately 1% of dry matter, approximately 35% of propanediol and approximately 64% water. The percentages given are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. By “approximately”, it is meant that the proportions measured can vary by +/- 10%, preferably +/- 5% and more preferably +/- 2%.
De préférence, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention, en particulier obtenu selon le procédé décrit précédemment, comprend une teneur totale en minéraux allant de 300 à lOOOppm (notamment phosphore, magnésium, calcium, sodium et potassium), mesuré par la méthode EN ISO 17294-2 - ICP-MS. Preferably, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention, in particular obtained according to the method described above, comprises a total content of minerals ranging from 300 to 1000 ppm (in particular phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, sodium and potassium), measured by the method EN ISO 17294-2 - ICP-MS.
De préférence, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention comprend des sucres en une teneur allant de 0.1% à 0.5%, mesuré par la méthode à l’anthrone (Loewus, 1952). De préférence, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum comprend des polyphénols en une teneur allant de 0.1% à 0.5%, mesuré par la méthode Folin Ciocalteu (Ainsworth, 2007).Preferably, the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention comprises sugars in a content ranging from 0.1% to 0.5%, measured by the anthrone method (Loewus, 1952). Preferably, the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract comprises polyphenols in a content ranging from 0.1% to 0.5%, measured by the Folin Ciocalteu method (Ainsworth, 2007).
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum obtenu par le procédé décrit ci-dessus est caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend au moins un métabolite choisi parmi la bétaïne et le melilotoside cis et trans. According to a preferred embodiment, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum obtained by the process described above is characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside.
L’invention porte donc également sur un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend au moins un métabolite choisi parmi la bétaïne et le melilotoside cis et trans. The invention therefore also relates to an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum utilisé dans les compositions cosmétique de l’invention est obtenu selon un procédé d’extraction tel que décrit ci-dessus. According to a preferred embodiment, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is obtained according to an extraction process as described above.
De préférence, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum utilisé dans les compositions cosmétique de l’invention est obtenu selon un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes : a) broyage du végétal sec, de préférence de la plante entière ; b) extraction à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; c) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 1 et de l’extrait X ; d) extraction du marc 1 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; e) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 2 et de l’extrait Y ; f) extraction du marc 2 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; g) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 3 et de l’extrait Z ; h) rassemblement des extraits X, Y et Z ; i) évaporation de l’éthanol et concentration de l’extrait sous vide ; j) ajout de butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, le sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence de propanediol ; k) filtration, et l) conditionnement de l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. Preferably, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the dry plant, preferably of the whole plant; b) extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h; c) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc 1 and of the extract X; d) extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h; e) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc 2 and of the extract Y; f) extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h; g) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc 3 and of the extract Z; h) collection of extracts X, Y and Z; i) evaporation of the ethanol and concentration of the extract under vacuum; j) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; k) filtration, and l) packaging of the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum utilisé dans les compositions cosmétique de l’invention est caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend au moins un métabolite choisi parmi la bétaïne et le melilotoside cis et trans, en particulier la bétaïne.According to another embodiment, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside, in particular betaine.
L’invention porte également sur un procédé d’obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum comprenant au moins les étapes de : a) broyage de la matière végétale ; b) au moins une étape d’extraction suivie d’une étape filtration ; c) concentration de l’extrait obtenu à l’issue de l’étape b) ; d) ajout de butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, le sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence propanediol ; e) filtration, et f) obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. The invention also relates to a process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
Selon un mode particulier de l’invention, le procédé d’obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum comprend au moins les étapes suivantes : a) broyage de la matière végétale, de préférence de la plante entière, sèche ; b) extraction à reflux au moyen d’un solvant hydroalcoolique ; c) filtration permettant la récupération du marc et de l’extrait ; d) optionnellement, 1 à 4 répétitions des étapes b) et c) à partir du marc collecté à la fin de l’étape d’extraction/fïltration précédente et récupération à l’issue chaque l’étape d’extraction/fïltration d’un nouvel extrait ; e) assemblage des extraits collectés à l’issue de chaque étape d’extraction/fïltration ; f) évaporation du solvant d’extraction et concentration de l’extrait sous vide ; g) ajout de butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, le sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence propanediol ; h) filtration, et i) conditionnement. De préférence on utilise comme solvant un hydroalcoolique un mélange d’eau et d’éthanol, notamment un mélange comprenant entre 45% et 55% v/v d’eau et entre 45 et 55% v/v d’éthanol, de préférence 50% v/v d’eau et 55% v/v d’éthanol. According to a particular mode of the invention, the process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum comprises at least the following steps: a) grinding of the plant material, preferably of the whole plant, dry; b) reflux extraction using a hydroalcoholic solvent; c) filtration allowing the recovery of the marc and the extract; d) optionally, 1 to 4 repetitions of steps b) and c) from the marc collected at the end of the previous extraction/filtration step and recovery at the end of each extraction/filtration step of a new excerpt; e) assembly of the extracts collected at the end of each extraction/filtration step; f) evaporation of the extraction solvent and concentration of the extract under vacuum; g) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; h) filtration, and i) conditioning. Preferably, a hydroalcoholic solvent is used, a mixture of water and ethanol, in particular a mixture comprising between 45% and 55% v/v of water and between 45 and 55% v/v of ethanol, preferably 50 % v/v water and 55% v/v ethanol.
De préférence, l’extraction de la matière végétale par reflux est menée à chaud, notamment à une température d’au moins 60°C, de préférence au moins 65 °C, de préférence encore au moins 70°C, de préférence au moins 75°C, de préférence encore au moins 80°C. Preferably, the extraction of the plant material by reflux is carried out hot, in particular at a temperature of at least 60° C., preferably at least 65° C., more preferably at least 70° C., preferably at least 75°C, more preferably at least 80°C.
De préférence la durée de l’extraction pour chaque cycle d’extraction/fïltration est comprise entre 30 et 120 minutes, de préférence entre 45 et 90 minutes, entre 50 et 70 minutes comme par exemple 50, 55, 60, 65 ou 70 minutes. Preferably, the duration of the extraction for each extraction/filtration cycle is between 30 and 120 minutes, preferably between 45 and 90 minutes, between 50 and 70 minutes, such as for example 50, 55, 60, 65 or 70 minutes. .
De préférence, les étapes de filtrations utilisent des tamis de filtration avec des diamètres de filtration de 0,1 um à 0,5 um, notamment de 0,2 um. Preferably, the filtration steps use filtration screens with filtration diameters of 0.1 μm to 0.5 μm, in particular 0.2 μm.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré de l’invention, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est obtenu selon un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes suivantes : a) broyage du végétal sec, de préférence de la plante entière ; b) extraction à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; c) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 1 et de l’extrait X ; d) extraction du marc 1 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; e) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 2 et de l’extrait Y ; f) extraction du marc 2 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; g) filtration permettant la récupération du marc 3 et de l’extrait Z ; h) rassemblement des extraits X, Y et Z ; i) évaporation de l’éthanol et concentration de l’extrait sous vide ; j) ajout de butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, le sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence de propanediol ; k) filtration, et l) conditionnement de l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. According to a particular and preferred mode of the invention, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is obtained according to an extraction process comprising at least the following steps: a) grinding of the dry plant, preferably of the whole plant; b) extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80°C for 1 hour; c) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 1 and extract X; d) extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 hour; e) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 2 and extract Y; f) extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h; g) filtration allowing the recovery of marc 3 and extract Z; h) collection of extracts X, Y and Z; i) evaporation of the ethanol and concentration of the extract under vacuum; j) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; k) filtration, and l) packaging of the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract.
Galénique Galenic
Selon l’invention, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est utilisé dans les compositions cosmétiques en une quantité efficace pour obtenir l’effet recherché. Dans un mode de réalisation particulier, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est présent dans ladite composition cosmétique en une teneur allant de 0,01% à 10%, de préférence allant de 0,1% à 10%, en particulier de 0,2% à 5%, de préférence de 0,3% à 3% en poids de matière première par rapport au poids total de la composition, correspondant à une teneur allant de de 0,0001% à 0,1%, de préférence de 0,002% à 0,05%, de préférence encore de 0,003% à 0,03% en poids de matière sèche par rapport au poids total de la composition. According to the invention, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is used in cosmetic compositions in an effective amount to obtain the desired effect. In a particular embodiment, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is present in said cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10%, in particular from 0.2% to 5%, preferably from 0.3% to 3% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, corresponding to a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1%, preferably from 0.002% to 0.05%, more preferably from 0.003% to 0.03 % by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier et préféré, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum utilisé dans les compositions cosmétiques de l’invention est le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination FINGE GOLD ORCHID. In a particular and preferred embodiment, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention is the product marketed under the name FINGE GOLD ORCHID.
Dans un mode de réalisation préféré, ladite composition cosmétique comprenant l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est une composition de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau et/ou des lèvres et notamment de la peau du visage et/ou du cou. In a preferred embodiment, said cosmetic composition comprising the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the or neck.
Selon certains modes de réalisation, outre l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, la composition cosmétique de l’invention peut également comprendre au moins un autre extrait végétal, comme par exemple un extrait d’orchidée de l’espèce Gastrodia elata, et de préférence l’extrait de nom INCI : GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT. L’extrait de Gastrodia elata est présent dans les compositions de l’invention dans une quantité efficace pour obtenir l’effet recherché, en particulier pour permettre de prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules. En particulier, ledit extrait de Gastrodia elata est présent en une teneur allant de 0,01% à 10%, en particulier de 0,02% à 5%, de préférence de 0,05% à 4% en poids de matière première (poids de produit) par rapport au poids total de la composition, correspondant à une teneur allant de 0,0001% à 0,1%, de préférence de 0,0002% à 0,05%, de préférence encore de 0,0005% à 0,04% en poids de matière sèche par rapport au poids total de la composition.According to certain embodiments, in addition to the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise at least one other plant extract, such as for example an orchid extract of the species Gastrodia elata, and preferably the INCI name extract: GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT. The extract of Gastrodia elata is present in the compositions of the invention in an effective quantity to obtain the desired effect, in particular to make it possible to prevent and/or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss elasticity, reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. In particular, said extract of Gastrodia elata is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10%, in particular from 0.02% to 5%, preferably from 0.05% to 4% by weight of raw material ( weight of product) relative to the total weight of the composition, corresponding to a content ranging from 0.0001% to 0.1%, preferably from 0.0002% to 0.05%, more preferably from 0.0005% to 0.04% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon certains modes de réalisation, la composition cosmétique de l’invention comprend au moins l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention et en outre un ou plusieurs excipients cosmétiques acceptables parmi ceux connus de l’homme du métier en vue d’obtenir une composition pour l’application topique par exemple sous forme de lait, de crème, de pommade, d’émulsion eau-dans-huile ou huile-dans-eau, de baume, de stick, de gel, de lotion, de sérum, ou encore de poudre. Selon la nature de la composition, on sélectionnera un ou plusieurs excipients cosmétiquement acceptables parmi des polymères, des agents tensioactifs, des agents de rhéologie, des parfums, des électrolytes, des ajusteurs de pH, des agents anti-oxydants, des conservateurs, des colorants, des nacres, des pigments et leurs mélanges. According to certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention and in addition one or more cosmetic excipients acceptable from those known to those skilled in the art with a view to obtaining a composition for topical application, for example in the form of milk, cream, ointment, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, balm, stick, gel, lotion, serum, or more powder. Depending on the nature of the composition, one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients will be selected from polymers, surfactants, rheology agents, perfumes, electrolytes, pH adjusters, antioxidants, preservatives, colorants , nacres, pigments and mixtures thereof.
La composition cosmétique de l’invention peut se présenter sous toute forme galénique adaptée à une application topique sur les matières kératiniques en particulier de la peau et/ou des lèvres et notamment de la peau du visage et/ou du cou, comprenant outre l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention, au moins un adjuvant cosmétique choisi dans le groupe constitué par des agents anti-oxydants, des agents émollients, des agents hydratants, des agents anti-âge, des parfums, et leurs mélanges. The cosmetic composition of the invention may be in any galenic form suitable for topical application to keratin materials, in particular of the skin and/or lips and in particular of the skin of the face and/or neck, comprising, in addition to the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention, at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidants, emollients, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes, and mixtures thereof.
Utilisations et procédés cosmétiques Cosmetic uses and processes
Les procédés cosmétiques et utilisations cosmétiques décrits ci-dessous sont destinés à une application sur des matières kératiniques, notamment des matières kératiniques saines, de préférence des peaux et/ou des lèvres saines et en particulier des lèvres saines (sujets « sains »). The cosmetic processes and cosmetic uses described below are intended for application to keratin materials, in particular healthy keratin materials, preferably healthy skin and/or lips and in particular healthy lips (“healthy” subjects).
Par « matières kératiniques saines » selon l’invention on entend des matières kératiniques ne présentant pas de troubles ou de désordres qui relèveraient d’un état pathologique (sujets « non sains », atteints d’une pathologie). On parlera indifféremment de peaux et/ou lèvres saines ou de peaux et/ou lèvres dans le reste de la description. By “healthy keratin materials” according to the invention is meant keratin materials not exhibiting disorders or disorders that would be part of a pathological state (“non-healthy” subjects, suffering from a pathology). Reference will be made indiscriminately to healthy skin and/or lips or to healthy skin and/or lips in the rest of the description.
Comme illustré ci-après dans les exemples, l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention est capable d’augmenter de manière significative la synthèse de plusieurs protéines de la matrice extracellulaire, notamment l’élastine, la fibrilline 1, le collagène 1 et le nidogène. L’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention présente donc un intérêt cosmétique en particulier comme actif cosmétique « anti-âge ». As illustrated below in the examples, the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention is capable of significantly increasing the synthesis of several proteins of the extracellular matrix, in particular elastin, fibrillin 1, collagen 1 and the nidogen. The Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention therefore has cosmetic interest, in particular as an “anti-aging” cosmetic active ingredient.
Par actif cosmétique « anti-âge » on entend que l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention est efficace pour prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules, augmenter la longévité cellulaire By "anti-aging" cosmetic active ingredient is meant that the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention is effective in preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction of the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines, increase cell longevity
Ainsi l’invention porte également sur l’utilisation cosmétique, non thérapeutique d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, tel que décrit ci-dessus comme agent pour prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules.Thus the invention also relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, as described above as an agent for preventing and/or reduce the signs of skin ageing, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier et préféré, l’invention porte sur l’utilisation d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum caractérisé en ce qu’il est commercialisé sous la dénomination FINGE GOLD ORCHID. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it is marketed under the name FINGE GOLD ORCHID.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, l’invention porte sur l’utilisation d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum caractérisé en ce qu’il est obtenu par un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes de : a) broyage de la matière végétale ; b) au moins une étape d’extraction suivie d’une étape filtration ; c) concentration de l’extrait obtenu à l’issue de l’étape b) ; d) ajout de propanediol ; e) filtration, et f) obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material ; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, l’invention porte sur l’utilisation d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend au moins un métabolite choisi parmi la bétaïne et le melilotoside cis et trans, en particulier la bétaïne. According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from cis and trans betaine and melilotoside, in particular betaine.
La présente invention porte également sur un procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau et/ou des lèvres, comprenant l’application topique sur lesdites matières kératiniques, d’une composition cosmétique telle que décrite ci-dessus. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as described below. above.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulier, la composition cosmétique mise en œuvre dans les utilisations ou procédés cosmétiques de l’invention comprend en outre un extrait d’orchidée de l’espèce Gastrodia elata, et préférence l’extrait de nom INCI : GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT. According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition used in the cosmetic uses or processes of the invention further comprises an orchid extract of the species Gastrodia elata, and preferably the extract with INCI name: GASTRODIA ELATA ROOT EXTRACT.
Selon la présente invention, le procédé cosmétique est destiné à prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules. According to the present invention, the cosmetic process is intended to prevent and/or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.
De préférence, la composition cosmétique est appliquée sur une peau âgée ou présentant des signes de vieillissement. L’invention va désormais être illustrée dans les exemples non limitatifs suivants. Les pourcentages (%) sont exprimés en poids de matière première (MP) par rapport au poids total de la composition, sauf indication contraire. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is applied to aged skin or skin showing signs of ageing. The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The percentages (%) are expressed by weight of raw material (MP) relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
EXEMPLE 1 : Préparation d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum EXAMPLE 1: Preparation of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum
Etape 1 : broyage du plant de Dendrobium fimbriatum entier et sec ; Step 1: grinding the whole, dry Dendrobium fimbriatum plant;
Etape 2 : extraction à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; Stage 2: extraction under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h;
Etape 3 : filtration permettant la récupération du marc 1 et de l’extrait X ; Step 3: filtration allowing the recovery of marc 1 and extract X;
Etape 4 : extraction du marc 1 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; Step 4: extraction of marc 1 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80°C for Ih;
Etape 5 : filtration permettant la récupération du marc 2 et de l’extrait Y ; Step 5: filtration allowing the recovery of marc 2 and extract Y;
Etape 6 : extraction du marc 2 à reflux à l’éthanol 50% à 80°C pendant Ih ; Stage 6: extraction of marc 2 under reflux with 50% ethanol at 80° C. for 1 h;
Etape 7 : filtration permettant la récupération du marc 3 et de l’extrait Z ; Step 7: filtration allowing the recovery of marc 3 and extract Z;
Etape 8 : rassemblement des extraits X, Y et Z ; Step 8: collection of extracts X, Y and Z;
Etape 9 : évaporation de l’éthanol et concentration de l’extrait sous vide ; Step 9: evaporation of the ethanol and concentration of the extract under vacuum;
Etape 10 : ajout de propanediol ; Step 10: addition of propanediol;
Etape 11 : filtration, et Step 11: filtration, and
Etape 12 : conditionnement de l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. Step 12: conditioning of the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract.
L’extrait ainsi obtenu porte le nom INCI : WATER/AQUA, PROPANEDIOL DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM OCULATUM EXTRACT. Sa teneur de matière sèche est de 1%, il comprend 35% de propanediol et 64% d’eau. The extract thus obtained bears the INCI name: WATER/AQUA, PROPANEDIOL DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM OCULATUM EXTRACT. Its dry matter content is 1%, it includes 35% propanediol and 64% water.
EXEMPLE 2 : Caractérisation phytochimique de l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum préparé selon l’exemple 1. EXAMPLE 2: Phytochemical characterization of the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum prepared according to Example 1.
Dans cette étude, la Demanderesse a étudié le profil phytochimique d'un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum obtenu par le procédé de l’exemple 1. In this study, the Applicant studied the phytochemical profile of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum obtained by the method of Example 1.
2.1. Fractionnement des extraits par chromatographie de partage centrifuge (CPC) Deux expériences de CPC ont été réalisées successivement. 2.1.1. CPC 1 2.1. Fractionation of the extracts by centrifugal partition chromatography (CPC) Two CPC experiments were carried out successively. 2.1.1. CPC 1
L’extrait sec préalablement solubilisé dans un mélange phase stationnaire / phase mobile, est injecté en CPC dans une colonne préalablement équilibrée (FCPE300® (Rousselet Robatel Kromaton)). Le débit a été de 20mL/min et la vitesse de rotation de la colonne de 1200 rpm. Le système de solvant à trois phases correspond à n-heptane/methyl-ter-butyl- ether/acétonitrile/eau (l/l/l/l, v/v), la séparation est effectuée en mode ascendant. The dry extract, dissolved beforehand in a stationary phase/mobile phase mixture, is injected in CPC into a previously equilibrated column (FCPE300® (Rousselet Robatel Kromaton)). The flow rate was 20 mL/min and the column rotation speed was 1200 rpm. The three-phase solvent system corresponds to n-heptane/methyl-ter-butyl-ether/acetonitrile/water (l/l/l/l, v/v), the separation is carried out in ascending mode.
Des fractions de 20 ml ont été collectées pendant toute l’expérience (élution et extrusion) et combinées selon leurs profils de chromatographie sur couche mince. 4 fractions ont ainsi été obtenues. 20 ml fractions were collected throughout the experiment (elution and extrusion) and combined according to their thin layer chromatography profiles. 4 fractions were thus obtained.
Tous les composés retenus à l'intérieur de la colonne ont été récupérés par extrusion et séchés sous vide pour obtenir l'injection de CPC 2. All the compounds retained inside the column were recovered by extrusion and dried under vacuum to obtain the injection of CPC 2.
2.1.2. CPC2 2.1.2. CPC2
L’extrait sec préalablement solubilisé dans un mélange phase stationnaire / phase mobile, est injecté en CPC dans une colonne préalablement équilibrée (FCPE300® (Rousselet Robatel Kromaton)). Le débit a été de 20mL/min et la vitesse de rotation de la colonne de 1200 rpm. Le système de solvant à trois phases correspond à n-heptane/methyl-ter-butyl- ether/acétonitrile/eau (l/l/l/l, v/v), la séparation est effectuée en mode ascendant. The dry extract, dissolved beforehand in a stationary phase/mobile phase mixture, is injected in CPC into a previously balanced column (FCPE300® (Rousselet Robatel Kromaton)). The flow rate was 20 mL/min and the column rotation speed was 1200 rpm. The three-phase solvent system corresponds to n-heptane/methyl-ter-butyl-ether/acetonitrile/water (l/l/l/l, v/v), the separation is carried out in ascending mode.
Des fractions de 20 ml ont été collectées pendant toute l’expérience (élution et extrusion) et combinées selon leurs profils de chromatographie sur couche mince. 9 fractions ont ainsi été obtenues. 20 ml fractions were collected throughout the experiment (elution and extrusion) and combined according to their thin layer chromatography profiles. 9 fractions were thus obtained.
2.2. Analyses RMN et identification des principaux métabolites 2.2. NMR analyzes and identification of the main metabolites
Une aliquote de chaque fraction de Fl à F13 a été dissoute dans du DMSO-d6 et analysée par RMN 13C à 298 K sur un spectromètre Bruker Avance AVIII-600 (Karlsruhe, Allemagne) équipé d'une cryosonde. Après le traitement des spectres, les intensités absolues de tous les signaux RMN 13C ont été automatiquement collectées et regroupées sur les spectres des séries de fractions en utilisant un script informatique développé par Natexplore. Le tableau résultant a été soumis à une analyse de regroupement hiérarchique (PermutMatrix, 1.9.3, LIRMM, Montpellier, France). Les grappes de déplacement chimique RMN 13C résultantes ont été visualisées sous forme de dendrogrammes sur une carte bidimensionnelle. Pour l'identification des métabolites, chaque grappe de décalage chimique RMN 13C obtenue par HCA a été manuellement soumise au moteur de recherche de structure du logiciel de gestion de base de données ACD/NMR Workbook Suite 2012 (ACD/Labs, Ontario, Canada) comprenant les structures et les décalages chimiques prévus des produits naturels de faible poids moléculaire. Des expériences de RMN 2D (HSQC,An aliquot of each fraction from F1 to F13 was dissolved in DMSO-d6 and analyzed by 13C NMR at 298 K on a Bruker Avance AVIII-600 spectrometer (Karlsruhe, Germany) equipped with a cryoprobe. After the spectra were processed, the absolute intensities of all 13C NMR signals were automatically collected and aggregated onto the fraction series spectra using a computer script developed by Natexplore. The resulting table was subjected to a hierarchical clustering analysis (PermutMatrix, 1.9.3, LIRMM, Montpellier, France). The resulting 13C NMR chemical shift clusters were visualized as dendrograms on a two-dimensional map. For the identification of metabolites, each 13C NMR chemical shift cluster obtained by HCA was manually submitted to the structure search engine of the ACD/NMR Workbook Suite 2012 database management software (ACD/Labs, Ontario, Canada). understanding the structures and predicted chemical shifts of low molecular weight natural products. 2D NMR experiments (HSQC,
HMBC et COSY) ont été réalisées sur des fractions contenant des composés supposés identifiés afin de confirmer les structures moléculaires proposées par la base de données à la fin du processus de déréplication. HMBC and COZY) were carried out on fractions containing supposedly identified compounds in order to confirm the molecular structures proposed by the database at the end of the dereplication process.
Les principaux métabolites identifiés par RMN dans chaque fraction sont présentés dans le tableau 1. The main metabolites identified by NMR in each fraction are presented in Table 1.
Tableau 1 : Masse et composition globale des fractions de la CPC. Maj=majoritaire ;Table 1: Mass and overall composition of CPC fractions. Maj=majority;
Med=Medium ; Min=minoritaire Med=Medium; Min=minority
[Tableau 1] [Table 1]
2.3. Conclusion 2.3. Conclusion
L'extrait brut a été fractionné par la technique de CPC en un total de 13 fractions au cours de deux expériences successives. Les fractions moins polaires F1-F4 (représentant environ 3,8 % de la masse de l’extrait brut) étaient composées de longues chaînes alkyles (acides gras ou alcools). Les fractions modérément polaires F5-F10 (représentant environ 21,6 % de la masse de l’extrait brut) contenaient une diversité de polyphénols (acide mélilotique, dendrophénol, dihydromélilotoside), ainsi que de la coumarine, du syringaldéhyde et plusieurs acides phénoliques tels que l’acide ortho-coumarique, l’acide vanillique, l’acide p-hydroxybenzoïque et l'acide 3-hydroxy-3-(2-hydroxyphényl)-propanoïque. D'autres acides non phénoliques ont également été identifiés dans ces fractions (acide lévulinique, acide subérique, acide 2,4-diméthyl-5-oxotétrahydrofurane-3-carboxylique et acide 1,3,4- pentanetricarboxylique). Les fractions les plus polaires Fl 1-F13 récupérées lors de l'étape d'extrusion (représentant environ 74,5 % de la masse de l'extrait brut), étaient principalement composées de sucres simples, ainsi que de dihydromélilotoside, de trans- mélilotoside, de cis-mélilotoside, de glycérol, de choline, de bétaïne, d’uridine et d’adénosine. L’extrait ainsi obtenu et décrit a été testé pour ses effets biologiques dans les exemples suivants. The crude extract was fractionated by the CPC technique into a total of 13 fractions during two successive experiments. The less polar fractions F1-F4 (representing approximately 3.8% of the mass of the crude extract) were composed of long alkyl chains (fatty acids or alcohols). The moderately polar F5-F10 fractions (representing about 21.6% of the mass of the crude extract) contained a variety of polyphenols (melilotic acid, dendrophenol, dihydromelilotoside), as well as coumarin, syringaldehyde and several phenolic acids such as ortho-coumaric acid, vanillic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and 3-hydroxy-3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-propanoic acid. Other non-phenolic acids were also identified in these fractions (levulinic acid, suberic acid, 2,4-dimethyl-5-oxotetrahydrofuran-3-carboxylic acid and 1,3,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid). The most polar fractions Fl 1-F13 recovered during the extrusion step (representing approximately 74.5% of the mass of the crude extract), were mainly composed of simple sugars, as well as dihydromelilotoside, trans- melilotoside, cis-melilotoside, glycerol, choline, betaine, uridine and adenosine. The extract thus obtained and described was tested for its biological effects in the following examples.
EXEMPLE 3 : Effet du Dendrobium fïmbriatum sur l’expression de marqueurs de la matrice extracellulaire dermique dans les Fibroblastes Humains Normaux EXAMPLE 3: Effect of Dendrobium fimbriatum on the expression of dermal extracellular matrix markers in Normal Human Fibroblasts
Dans cette étude, la Demanderesse a souhaité évaluer l’effet de l’extrait d’orchidée Dendrobium fïmbriatum préparé selon l’exemple 1, sur l’expression de différentes protéines impliquées dans la synthèse de la matrice extra cellulaire (MEC) dans des fibroblastes humains normaux en culture (FHN). In this study, the Applicant wished to evaluate the effect of the Dendrobium fimbriatum orchid extract prepared according to Example 1, on the expression of various proteins involved in the synthesis of the extracellular matrix (ECM) in fibroblasts cultured normal humans (FHN).
3.1. Culture et traitement des Fibroblastes Humains Normaux 3.1. Cultivation and Processing of Normal Human Fibroblasts
Les Fibroblastes Humains Normaux (FHN) sont issus d’une plastie abdominale d’un donneur féminin de 37 ans. Les cellules ont été ensemencées dans du milieu DMEM 1 g/L glucose complémenté de 10 % de sérum de veau fœtal au passage 5 (P5) avec une densité d’ensemencement de 15 000 cellules par puits, dans des plaques 96 puits. Normal Human Fibroblasts (NHF) are derived from an abdominoplasty from a 37-year-old female donor. The cells were seeded in DMEM 1 g/L glucose medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum at passage 5 (P5) with a seeding density of 15,000 cells per well, in 96-well plates.
L’extrait sec de Dendrobium fimbriatum a été utilisé à la concentration 50 ug/ml dans de l’éthanol The dry extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum was used at a concentration of 50 ug/ml in ethanol
A confluence (Jl), les FHN ont été traités avec l’extrait décrit ci-dessus dans du milieu DMEM Ig/L glucose +10% SVF (sérum de veau fœtal). Le traitement a été réalisé en n = 4 pour chaque condition, pendant 5 jours avec un retraitement de la monocouche à J3. Pour les conditions témoin (non traité), le milieu a été remplacé par du milieu frais de culture. At confluence (Jl), the FHNs were treated with the extract described above in DMEM Ig/L glucose + 10% FCS medium (fetal calf serum). The treatment was carried out in n = 4 for each condition, for 5 days with retreatment of the monolayer on D3. For the control conditions (untreated), the medium was replaced with fresh culture medium.
3.2. Immunomarquage 3.2. Immunolabelling
3.2.1. Protocole de marquage 3.2.1. Marking protocol
A l’issu des traitements, les cellules ont été rincées trois fois au PBS (PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO), puis fixées à la formaline (Formalin Solution 10% Neutral Buffered, Sigma) pendant 10 minutes. Après 3 rinçages au PBS, les membranes des cellules ont été perméabilisées ou non (selon le marqueur étudié) avec une solution de PBS Triton 0,1% (Triton X-100, Sigma). Puis elles ont été de nouveau rincées 3 fois au PBS. At the end of the treatments, the cells were rinsed three times with PBS (PBS Tablets, Invitrogen GIBCO), then fixed with formalin (Formalin Solution 10% Neutral Buffered, Sigma) for 10 minutes. After 3 rinses with PBS, the membranes of the cells were permeabilized or not (depending on the marker studied) with a solution of PBS Triton 0.1% (Triton X-100, Sigma). Then they were again rinsed 3 times with PBS.
Les cellules ont été recouvertes d’une solution de PBS/BSA 1% (Albumin, from bovine serum, Sigma), pendant 30 minutes et à température ambiante. The cells were covered with a 1% PBS/BSA solution (Albumin, from bovine serum, Sigma), for 30 minutes and at room temperature.
La solution de PBS/BSA 1% a ensuite été remplacée par une solution d’anticorps primaire correspondant à chaque protéine marquée (voir tableau 1) diluée dans du PBS/BSA 1%. Les plaques ont été incubées une nuit à 4°C. The 1% PBS/BSA solution was then replaced with a primary antibody solution corresponding to each labeled protein (see Table 1) diluted in 1% PBS/BSA. Plates were incubated overnight at 4°C.
Les cellules ont ensuite été rincées trois fois au PBS et recouvertes d’une solution d’anticorps secondaire selon l’anticorps primaire à cibler (voir tableau 1) et de DAPI au l/1000ème (4’,6’-diamidino-2-phenylindole, dihydrochloride, Invitrogen Molecular Probes) dilués dans le PBS/BSA 1%. Les plaques ont été conservées une heure à l’obscurité et à température ambiante. The cells were then rinsed three times with PBS and covered with a solution of secondary antibody according to the primary antibody to be targeted (see Table 1) and DAPI at 1/1000th (4',6'-diamidino-2- phenylindole, dihydrochloride, Invitrogen Molecular Probes) diluted in PBS/BSA 1%. The plates were kept for one hour in the dark and at room temperature.
La solution d’anticorps secondaire a ensuite été aspirée et les cellules rincées deux fois au PBS et une fois à l’eau distillée. Du PBS a été déposé dans chaque puits à raison de ImL. Les plaques ont été conservées à 4°C et à l’obscurité jusqu’à l’acquisition des images. The secondary antibody solution was then aspirated and the cells rinsed twice with PBS and once with distilled water. PBS was deposited in each well at the rate of ImL. Plates were stored at 4°C in the dark until image acquisition.
Tableau 2 : Liste des anticorps primaires et conditions d’utilisation Table 2: List of primary antibodies and conditions of use
[Tableau 2] [Table 2]
3.2.2. Acquisition d’image par HCS 3.2.2. Image acquisition by HCS
Les plaques ont été scannées à l’ArrayScan XTi de Thermo Cellomics. The plates were scanned with the ArrayScan XTi from Thermo Cellomics.
Conditions d’acquisition : Vesting conditions:
Détection : DAPI : filtre XF53 386 23 Detection: DAPI: XF53 386 23 filter
Alexa Fluor 568 : filtre XF53_572_15 Alexa Fluor 568: filter XF53_572_15
Résolution : 1104 x 1104 Objectif : 10x dry Resolution: 1104 x 1104 Objective: 10x dry
Nombre d’images : 25 par puits Number of images: 25 per well
3.2.3. Analyse d’images 3.2.3. Image analysis
Les images ont ensuite été analysées à l’aide du logiciel d'analyse du système arrayscan par la bio-application Spot detector. The images were then analyzed using arrayscan system analysis software by the Spot detector bio-application.
Ce programme (pipeline) permet de détecter le marquage rouge de la protéine ciblée, correspondant à l’expression de celle-ci. La surface de la zone de mesure est délimitée comme étant la totalité de la surface de l’image. This program (pipeline) makes it possible to detect the red marking of the targeted protein, corresponding to its expression. The surface of the measurement area is delimited as being the entire surface of the image.
Le nombre de cellules a été déterminé par le comptage des noyaux par détection du marquage bleu du DAPI. The number of cells was determined by counting the nuclei by detecting the blue labeling of DAPI.
Selon les marqueurs et leur expression cellulaire, les résultats peuvent être exprimés par :Depending on the markers and their cellular expression, the results can be expressed by:
- Intensité du marquage détecté (Seuillage) / Nb de cellules : cette méthode a été utilisée pour quantifier les structures sous forme de fibres par exemple. - Intensity of labeling detected (Threshold) / Nb of cells: this method was used to quantify structures in the form of fibers for example.
- Intensité du marquage dans le champ total / Nb de cellules : cette méthode a permis d’avoir une quantification générale de la synthèse du marqueur étudié sans tenir compte de la structure. - Intensity of the labeling in the total field / Nb of cells: this method made it possible to have a general quantification of the synthesis of the marker studied without taking account of the structure.
3.3. Analyses statistiques 3.3. Statistical analyzes
L’analyse statistique des résultats consiste en un calcul de la moyenne, de l’écart type et de l’intervalle de confiance (a = 0,05). The statistical analysis of the results consists of a calculation of the mean, the standard deviation and the confidence interval (a = 0.05).
La significativité des différences de ces rapports observées entre les témoins et les traités a été mesurée par le test de Student. Le test de Student est dit significatif si sa valeur est inférieure à 0,05. The significance of the differences in these ratios observed between the controls and the treated ones was measured by the Student test. The Student test is said to be significant if its value is less than 0.05.
3.4. Résultats 3.4. Results
[Tableau 3] [Table 3]
Les résultats montrent donc que le traitement des FHN par l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention a induit une très forte stimulation sur l’expression de l’élastine (+96%). Il induit également une forte stimulation sur l’expression d’autres marqueurs de la MEC tels que la fibrilline 1, le collagène 1 et le nidogène (+35% à +52 %). The results therefore show that the treatment of FHN with the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention induced a very strong stimulation on the expression of elastin (+96%). It also induces a strong stimulation on the expression of other ECM markers such as fibrillin 1, collagen 1 and nidogen (+35% to +52%).
Dans leur ensemble, ces résultats suggèrent que l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention est capable d’augmenter de manière importante la synthèse de plusieurs composantes de la matrice extracellulaire de l’environnement cutané. Cet extrait présente donc un intérêt cosmétique pour une utilisation en lien avec les fonctions physiologiques de la peau notamment prévenir et/ou prévenir la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité de la peau, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, et/ou l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules. Taken together, these results suggest that the Dendrobium fimbriatum extract according to the invention is capable of significantly increasing the synthesis of several components of the extracellular matrix of the cutaneous environment. This extract is therefore of cosmetic interest for use in connection with the physiological functions of the skin, in particular preventing and/or preventing the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity of the skin, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, and /or the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
EXEMPLE 4 : Effet des extraits de Dendrobium fimbriatum ou de Gastrodia elata sur la longévité des FHN EXAMPLE 4: Effect of extracts of Dendrobium fimbriatum or of Gastrodia elata on the longevity of FHN
Dans cette étude, la Demanderesse a souhaité évaluer l’effet de l’extrait d’orchidée Dendrobium fimbriatum préparé selon l’exemple 1, sur la longévité de fibroblastes humains normaux. In this study, the Applicant wished to evaluate the effect of the Dendrobium fimbriatum orchid extract prepared according to example 1, on the longevity of normal human fibroblasts.
4.1 Protocole d’étude 4.1 Study protocol
4.1.1. Modèle de fibroblastes sénescents étudié par cytométrie en flux 4.1.1. Model of senescent fibroblasts studied by flow cytometry
Les fibroblastes provenant du derme d’un donneur (donneur féminin de 58 ans) ont été mis en culture et vieillis par une série de passages qui leur confère un phénotype âgé (modèle de fibroblastes sénescents). Fibroblasts from the dermis of a donor (58-year-old female donor) were cultured and aged through a series of passages that gave them an aged phenotype (senescent fibroblast model).
Certains marqueurs morphologiques de la sénescence ont été mesurés par cytométrie en flux. Cette technique permet avantageusement d'étudier à très haut débit et de manière quantitative les caractéristiques optiques (fluorescence, diffusion de la lumière liée à la morphologie cellulaire. ..) d’un grand nombre de cellules (plusieurs dizaines de milliers). Il est donc possible d’en tirer des données statistiquement significatives. Les cellules à étudier ont été mises en suspension dans un milieu. Dans le cytomètre, les cellules sont envoyées une à une dans une chambre d’analyse où elles sont soumises à plusieurs faisceaux laser qui permettent de mesurer ou d'évaluer des paramètres cellulaires. La lumière diffractée mesurée en face du rayon laser permet d’évaluer la taille des cellules (paramètre Forward SCatter, FSC). La lumière diffractée, mesurée sur le côté (paramètre Side SCatter SSC) donne une mesure de la granularité de la cellule. Cette granularité correspond à la complexité de la cellule, par exemple la densité des organites, des agrégats protéiques, des irrégularités internes ou de surface. Avec la sénescence, la taille et la granularité des cellules augmentent, notamment suite aux dommages oxydatifs sur les organites, à l’accumulation de lipofuscine, ou encore aux dommages aux macromolécules. Some morphological markers of senescence were measured by flow cytometry. This technique advantageously makes it possible to study at very high speed and in a quantitative manner the optical characteristics (fluorescence, light scattering linked to cell morphology, etc.) of a large number of cells (several tens of thousands). It is therefore possible to derive statistically significant data. The cells to be studied were suspended in a medium. In the cytometer, the cells are sent one by one into an analysis chamber where they are subjected to several laser beams which make it possible to measure or evaluate cellular parameters. The diffracted light measured in front of the laser beam makes it possible to evaluate the size of the cells (parameter Forward SCatter, FSC). The scattered light, measured from the side (Side SCatter SSC parameter) gives a measure of the granularity of the cell. This granularity corresponds to the complexity of the cell, for example the density of organelles, protein aggregates, internal or surface irregularities. With senescence, the size and granularity of cells increase, particularly following oxidative damage to organelles, the accumulation of lipofuscin, or even damage to macromolecules.
4.1.2. Culture et traitement des Fibroblastes Humains Normaux 4.1.2. Cultivation and Processing of Normal Human Fibroblasts
L’effet de l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention a été évalué comparativement à celui d’un extrait de racine d’orchidée de l’espèce Gastrodia elata.The effect of the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention was evaluated compared to that of an extract of orchid root of the species Gastrodia elata.
Extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum : Dendrobium fimbriatum extract:
Solution mère : à 1% (10 mg/mL d’extrait sec) dans un mélange EtOH/H2O (50 :50) Stock solution: 1% (10 mg/mL of dry extract) in an EtOH/H2O mixture (50:50)
Solution finale : 0,0006% soit 6 ug/mL (diluée dans le milieu de culture à 1/1666,6) Extrait de Gastrodia elata : Final solution: 0.0006% or 6 ug/mL (diluted in the culture medium at 1/1666.6) Gastrodia elata extract:
Solution mère : à 100% en BG (butylène glycol)/H2O (50:50) contenant 1% d’extrait de racine Stock solution: 100% in BG (butylene glycol)/H2O (50:50) containing 1% root extract
Solution finale : 0,06% (diluée dans le milieu de culture à 1/1666,7) Final solution: 0.06% (diluted in the culture medium at 1/1666.7)
Conditions de traitement : Processing terms:
Non Traité : 10% (S VF) Untreated: 10% (S VF)
Ctl Exp BG/H2O (50:50) 1/400 Ctl Exp BG/H 2 O (50:50) 1/400
- Gastrodia elata 0,06% (correspondant à 6 ug/mL d’extrait sec) - Gastrodia elata 0.06% (corresponding to 6 ug/mL of dry extract)
- Dendrobium fimbriatum 6 ug/mL d’extrait sec Les fibroblastes sénescents obtenus au paragraphe 4.1.1. ont été ensemencés dans du milieu DMEM 1 g/L glucose complémenté de 10 % S VF et traités dans les conditions exposées ci-dessus à Jl, J4, J6, J8, Jl 1 et J13. - Dendrobium fimbriatum 6 ug/mL dry extract The senescent fibroblasts obtained in paragraph 4.1.1. were inoculated in DMEM 1 g/L glucose medium supplemented with 10% S VF and treated under the conditions described above on D1, D4, D6, D8, D11 and D13.
A J14 les cellules ont été lavées et récupérées par traitement à l’Accutase® puis les marqueurs morphologiques de la sénescence ont été mesurés par cytométrie en flux. On D14 the cells were washed and recovered by treatment with Accutase® then the morphological markers of senescence were measured by flow cytometry.
4.2. Résultats 4.2. Results
Pour chacun des paramètres, FSC et SCC, 4 conditions sont comparées 14 jours après la mise en contact des cellules avec les ingrédients : For each of the parameters, FSC and SCC, 4 conditions are compared 14 days after bringing the cells into contact with the ingredients:
- (1) : cellules non traitées à un passage précoce (Passage 7) - (1): untreated cells at an early passage (Passage 7)
- (2) : cellules non traitées à un passage tardif (Passage 28) = cellules vieillies- (2): untreated cells at a late passage (Passage 28) = aged cells
- (3) : cellules à un passage tardif (P28) traitées par Gastrodia data (eq. 6ug/mL extrait sec) - (3): late passage cells (P28) treated with Gastrodia data (eq. 6ug/mL dry extract)
- (4) : cellules à un passage tardif (P28) traitées par Dendrobium fimbriatum (6pg/mL extrait sec) - (4): late passage cells (P28) treated with Dendrobium fimbriatum (6 pg/mL dry extract)
4.2.1. Mesure de FSC 4.2.1. FSC measurement
[Tableau 4] [Table 4]
La taille des cellules est significativement plus élevée dans les fibroblastes vieillis. Le traitement par Dendrobium fimbriatum diminue ce signe morphologique de la sénescence cellulaire. 4.2.2. Mesure de SSC Cell size is significantly higher in aged fibroblasts. Treatment with Dendrobium fimbriatum decreases this morphological sign of cell senescence. 4.2.2. SSC measurement
[Tableau 5] La granularité des cellules est significativement plus élevée dans les fibroblastes vieillis.[Table 5] Cell granularity is significantly higher in aged fibroblasts.
Le traitement par Dendrobium fimbriatum diminue ce signe morphologique de la sénescence cellulaire alors que l’extrait de Gastrodia elata ne montre pas d’effet. Treatment with Dendrobium fimbriatum decreases this morphological sign of cell senescence, whereas Gastrodia elata extract shows no effect.
Les résultats suggèrent donc que le traitement par l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’invention présente un bénéfice pour lutter contre la sénescence des fibroblastes. Cet effet est notamment meilleur que pour l’extrait de Gastrodia elata. The results therefore suggest that the treatment with the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to the invention has a benefit in combating the senescence of fibroblasts. This effect is notably better than for the extract of Gastrodia elata.
Au final, cet extrait peut être utilisé comme actif anti-âge. In the end, this extract can be used as an anti-aging active.
EXEMPLE 5 : Formulations cosmétiques EXAMPLE 5: Cosmetic formulations
5.7. Composition sous la forme d’une crème 5.7. Composition in the form of a cream
[Tableau 6] [Table 6]
Outre sa texture agréable à l’application, cette composition présente une efficacité anti-âge remarquable, notamment pour prévenir la perte de fermeté et d’élasticité de la peau du visage et du cou. In addition to its pleasant texture on application, this composition has remarkable anti-ageing efficacy, in particular to prevent the loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin of the face and neck.
5.2. Composition sous la forme d’une lotion 5.2. Composition in the form of a lotion
[Tableau 7] Appliquée sur la peau, en particulier sur le visage, cette composition apporte une action anti-âge raffermissante et lissante. [Table 7] Applied to the skin, in particular to the face, this composition provides a firming and smoothing anti-ageing action.
REFERENCES Locwus, Improvement in Anthrone Method for Determination of Carbohydrates;REFERENCES Locwus, Improvement in Anthrone Method for Determination of Carbohydrates;
Analytical Chemistry, 24(1), 219-219 - Janvier 1952. Analytical Chemistry, 24(1), 219-219 - January 1952.
Ainsworth, E., Gillespie, K. Estimation of total phenolic content and other oxidation substrates in plant tissues using Folin-Ciocalteu reagent. Nat Protoc 2, 875-877 (2007). Ainsworth, E., Gillespie, K. Estimation of total phenolic content and other oxidation substrates in plant tissues using Folin-Ciocalteu reagent. Nat Protocol 2, 875-877 (2007).

Claims

28 REVENDICATIONS 28 CLAIMS
1. Composition cosmétique non rincée pour une application topique sur les matières kératiniques, en particulier sur la peau et/ou les lèvres et notamment la peau du visage et/ou du cou, comprenant un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. 1. Leave-in cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips and in particular the skin of the face and/or the neck, comprising an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
2. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1 dans laquelle l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est présent en une teneur allant de 0.01% à 10% en poids de matière première par rapport au poids total de la composition. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2 comprenant en outre un extrait de racine d’orchidée de l’espèce Gastrodia elata. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2 further comprising an orchid root extract of the species Gastrodia elata.
4. Composition cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3 comprenant en outre au moins un adjuvant cosmétique choisi dans le groupe constitué par des agents anti-oxydants, des agents émollients, des agents hydratants, des agents anti-âge, des parfums, et leurs mélanges. 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 further comprising at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from the group consisting of antioxidants, emollients, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, perfumes , and mixtures thereof.
5. Utilisation cosmétique d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, comme agent pour prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules. 5. Cosmetic use of an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, as an agent for preventing and/or reducing the signs of skin aging, in particular loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, reduction in the thickness of the skin, appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
6. Procédé cosmétique de soin et/ou maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau et/ou des lèvres, comprenant l’application topique sur lesdites matières kératiniques, d’une composition cosmétique telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4. 6. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or lips, comprising the topical application to said keratin materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4.
7. Procédé cosmétique selon la revendication 6 destiné à prévenir et/ou diminuer les signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment la perte de fermeté, la perte d’élasticité, la diminution de l’épaisseur de la peau, l’apparition de rides et/ou ridules. 7. Cosmetic process according to claim 6 intended to prevent and/or reduce the signs of skin aging, in particular the loss of firmness, the loss of elasticity, the reduction in the thickness of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and/or or fine lines.
8. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications 6 ou 7, dans lequel ladite composition cosmétique est appliquée sur une peau âgée ou présentant des signes de vieillissement. 8. Cosmetic process according to any one of claims 6 or 7, in which said cosmetic composition is applied to aged skin or skin showing signs of ageing.
9. Extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, caractérisé en ce qu’il est obtenu par un procédé d’extraction comprenant au moins les étapes de : a) broyage de la matière végétale ; b) au moins une étape d’extraction suivie d’une étape filtration ; c) concentration de l’extrait obtenu à l’issue de l’étape b) ; d) ajout de butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, le sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence propanediol ; e) filtration, et f) obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. 9. Extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it is obtained by an extraction process comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
10. Extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon la revendication 9 caractérisé en ce qu’il est obtenu à partir de la plante entière. 10. Extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to claim 9 characterized in that it is obtained from the whole plant.
11. Extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend au moins un métabolite choisi parmi la bétaïne et le melilotoside cis et trans. 11. Extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum, characterized in that it comprises at least one metabolite chosen from betaine and cis and trans melilotoside.
12. Procédé d’obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum comprenant au moins les étapes de : a) broyage de la matière végétale ; b) au moins une étape d’extraction suivie d’une étape filtration ; c) concentration de l’extrait obtenu à l’issue de l’étape b) ; d) ajout de butylène glycol, le pentylène glycol, le sorbate de potassium/sodium benzoate, glycérol ou propanediol, de préférence ce propanediol ; e) filtration, et f) obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum. 12. Process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum comprising at least the steps of: a) grinding the plant material; b) at least one extraction step followed by a filtration step; c) concentration of the extract obtained at the end of step b); d) addition of butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate, glycerol or propanediol, preferably this propanediol; e) filtration, and f) obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum.
13. Composition cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, utilisation cosmétique selon la revendication 5, procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications 6 à 8, extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon l’une quelconque des revendications 9 à 11, procédé d’obtention d’un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum selon la revendication 12, caractérisés en ce que l’extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum est un extrait de Dendrobium fimbriatum var. oculatum. 13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, cosmetic use according to claim 5, cosmetic process according to any one of claims 6 to 8, extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to any one of claims 9 to 11, process for obtaining an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum according to Claim 12, characterized in that the extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum is an extract of Dendrobium fimbriatum var. eye.
EP21848276.8A 2020-12-18 2021-12-13 Dendrobium fimbriatum extract and no-rinse cosmetic composition comprising same Pending EP4262743A1 (en)

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FR2013687A FR3117870B1 (en) 2020-12-18 2020-12-18 Dendrobium fimbriatum extract and non-rinsed cosmetic composition comprising
PCT/FR2021/052301 WO2022129763A1 (en) 2020-12-18 2021-12-13 Dendrobium fimbriatum extract and no-rinse cosmetic composition comprising same

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JP2002205933A (en) * 2001-01-05 2002-07-23 Ichimaru Pharcos Co Ltd Cosmetic composition containing extract of orchidaceous plant
CN105617020B (en) * 2015-12-30 2019-09-27 南京中医药大学 Chinese medicine composition and the preparation method and application thereof with skin moisture-keeping effect
CN105998723A (en) * 2016-05-10 2016-10-12 南京医科大学友谊整形外科医院有限责任公司 Chinese herbal compound having skin photo-aging resistance effect
KR102126469B1 (en) * 2017-09-04 2020-06-24 주식회사 엘지생활건강 Cosmetic Compositions comprising extract of Dendrobium candidum flower extract
CN110559394A (en) * 2018-06-06 2019-12-13 捷通国际有限公司 Composition containing dendrobium nobile and using method thereof
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CN116685306A (en) 2023-09-01
FR3117870B1 (en) 2023-12-29

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