EP4255387A1 - Jus d'avena sativa fraiche dans la prévention et la réduction des perturbations de l'homéostasie épidermique - Google Patents
Jus d'avena sativa fraiche dans la prévention et la réduction des perturbations de l'homéostasie épidermiqueInfo
- Publication number
- EP4255387A1 EP4255387A1 EP21847986.3A EP21847986A EP4255387A1 EP 4255387 A1 EP4255387 A1 EP 4255387A1 EP 21847986 A EP21847986 A EP 21847986A EP 4255387 A1 EP4255387 A1 EP 4255387A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- skin
- juice
- fresh
- reinforcement
- hydration
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Definitions
- TITLE Fresh Avena sativa juice in the prevention and reduction of disturbances in epidermal homeostasis
- the present invention relates to the use of fresh Avena sativa L. juice and/or the use of cosmetic compositions comprising such a juice, as well as a cosmetic method, for preventing and/or reducing disturbances of epidermal homeostasis, in particular to prevent the reduction and/or reinforce the epidermal barrier function and improve the state of hydration of the skin.
- Oat or Avena sativa L. is an annual plant of the Poaceae family that can reach 1.50 m in height. At germination, the young plant is grassy and then gives several stems.
- the stem or culm is hollow, a few millimeters in diameter, interrupted from place to place, where the leaves are inserted, by solid diaphragms called nodes.
- the internodes initially very short at the base of the stem, become longer and longer.
- oat fruit is used primarily in the form of flour, one grade of which, called colloidal oat extract, has a United States Pharmacopoeia monograph USP 22, 1990.
- This colloidal extract exhibits emollient and softening properties, and is defined as being the powder resulting from the grinding and other processing of the whole grain, this quality corresponds to oatmeal.
- oil used in cosmetology and proteins it is also possible to extract oil used in cosmetology and proteins. The latter, insoluble, are not used directly but after enzymatic or chemical hydrolysis.
- a more or less advanced hydrolyzate is produced which makes it possible to obtain either oat peptides of variable molecular weight, or amino acids depending on the strength of the hydrolysis.
- the proteins hydrolyzed oats have been examined for their cosmetic and dermatological properties. Thus, properties on the hair have been demonstrated, such as the ability of these peptides to form a film on the hair shaft, to penetrate the cuticle and thus, through the resulting sheathing effect, to provide a conditioning effect.
- oats are used as a fodder plant. Cut young, it gives a highly valued green fodder. The straw is fed to horses, cows and sheep, but is not used as human food. In traditional medicine, oat straw is used in the preparation of soothing baths for rheumatic pains, sciatica and liver ailments. In India, decoctions of ordinary oats were used to wean drug addicts under the influence of opium. An alcoholic extract prepared from fresh plants has been used in smoking cessation with statistically significant results.
- "Grass" oats are the subject of an EMEA monograph (Reference EMEA/HMPC/202966/2007) in which is mentioned the use either of the aerial parts harvested before flowering and dried, or of a liquid extract (1 : 5, 45% v/v ethanol) prepared from the fresh aerial parts of the plant harvested during the flowering period. The traditional use of these aerial parts is described in cases of slight mental stress and to promote sleep. According to the bibliography, the aerial parts of oats are composed of:
- Flavonoids o Apigenin-type C-glycosyl-flavones (vitexin, isovitexin, etc.) or luteolin (orientin, isoorientin, isoscoparin, etc.), o Tricine-type flavones, O-glycosyls, o Flavolignans (salcolines A and B) ,
- Avenacosides A and B (aglycone: nuatigenin),
- Phenolic compounds avenanthramides, hydroxycinnamic acids, etc.
- sterols cerebrosides. ..
- the skin constitutes a barrier against external attacks, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious, which occur at its level.
- the skin is made up of three main parts, a superficial one, the epidermis, the inner part, the dermis and a deeper layer, the hypodermis, which interact.
- the natural human epidermis is mainly composed of three types of cells which are keratinocytes, which are very predominant, melanocytes and Langerhans cells. Each of these cell types contributes by its own functions to the essential role played in the organism by the skin, in particular the role of protecting the organism from external aggressions. This property is called barrier function.
- the epidermis is a pluristratified and keratinized squamous epithelium.
- the epidermis is mainly composed of keratinocytes which undergo a vectorized differentiation, oriented towards the surface, and leading to the stratification of the epidermis into 4 cell layers: basal layer (or stratum basal), spinous layer (or stratum spinosum), layer granular (or stratum granulosum) and stratum corneum (or stratum corneum). It is a tissue that renews itself continuously thanks to a balance between the proliferation of basal keratinocytes, their migration towards the surface during which they differentiate and their elimination by desquamation.
- the stratum corneum is made up of a stack of 10 to 30 layers of very flattened, anucleated keratinocytes, devoid of organelles, called comeocytes. If the comeocytes are said to be dead, they remain biochemically active.
- NMF Natural Hydration Factor
- the epidermis forms a multifunctional barrier ensuring the protection of the body against the various external stresses with which it is constantly confronted.
- the epidermis forms an almost impermeable barrier both from the inside out and from the outside in.
- One of its primary functions is to limit water loss.
- the impermeability of the epidermis is not total. A slight evaporation of water can be measured and is called “transepidermal water loss” or TEWL.
- TEWL transepidermal water loss
- Epidermal homeostasis characterizes all the regulatory functions of the epidermis which give it the ability to maintain proper functioning despite external constraints.
- the homeostasis of the epidermis is ensured, among other things, by its barrier function, which preserves the hydration of the skin by preventing water loss. This capacity can be excellent or good when the epidermis reacts immediately or quickly to restore the functioning balance, it can be deficient or non-existent when the return to balance is late or is not achieved.
- an alteration of the cutaneous barrier can occur in the presence of external aggressions such as irritating agents (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducers, concentrated solvents, toxic gases or fumes), mechanical stresses (friction, shocks, abrasion, scratching of the surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or depilation), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation) or internal attacks of the psychological stress type.
- This alteration of the cutaneous barrier leads to dehydration of the skin and can in particular result in cutaneous discomfort, sensory phenomena and in particular unpleasant phenomena, a feeling of dry skin.
- These sensations of skin discomfort are more frequent in the most exposed areas of the body, namely the hands, feet, face and scalp. They can occur in particular on areas subject to certain daily or frequently renewed hygiene gestures such as shaving, hair removal, cleansing with toiletries or household products, the application of adhesives with bandages or patches, the fixing of prostheses or in the case of sporting, professional gestures or simply linked to the way of life and the use of clothing, tools or equipment generating localized friction. They can also be amplified by psychological stress.
- the alteration of the skin barrier can also promote the appearance of unsightly micro-chapping or microfissuring, in particular on the hands, feet and lips.
- “Fragile skin” can be defined as skin with intrinsic fragility, such that it is more receptive to attacks of all kinds than non-fragile skin.
- fragile skin presents with a disruption of the barrier function resulting in permeability and therefore greater reactivity to stress or environmental factors compared to “normal skin” (not fragile).
- normal skin not fragile
- fragile skin is also slower to recover its basal state once exposed to such conditions.
- Constant fragile skin: this is baby skin, the skin of an elderly person, or even the skin of fragile areas of the body (eyelids, face, etc.); “Environmental” fragile skin: this is skin that has undergone climatic stress (hot, cold, dryness, etc.), mechanical (friction, etc.), physical (laser, UV, etc.) or chemicals (surfactants, solvents, pollutants, etc.);
- oat juice stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid, with a positive action on the restoration of epidermal ionic gradients, in particular ionic gradients of calcium, magnesium and nitrogen, essential for the barrier function, as well as morphological protection against dehydration stress.
- Oat juice therefore has an activity in maintaining and/or restoring epidermal ionic gradients and consequently in preventing and/or treating disturbances of an imbalance in epidermal homeostasis, thus contributing to the strengthening of barrier function of the skin and allowing good hydration of the skin, and this more particularly in the case of fragile skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a fresh Avena sativa juice for improving or strengthening the state of hydration of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the hydration state of the skin is obtained by the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the barrier function of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the maintenance and/or the reinforcement and/or the restoration of the ionic gradients at the level of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained via the stimulation of the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the cosmetic use of a fresh Avena sativa juice makes it possible to stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one fresh Avena sativa juice with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for improving or strengthening the state of hydration. skin. More particularly, the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the barrier function of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the maintenance and/or the reinforcement and/or the restoration of the ionic gradients at the level of the skin.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving or reinforcing the state of hydration of the skin, comprising the administration to a person in need thereof of an effective quantity of a juice of "Fresh Avena sativa or a cosmetic composition comprising at least one fresh Avena sativa juice with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. More particularly, improving and/or strengthening the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by improving and/or strengthening the barrier function of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the maintenance and/or the reinforcement and/or the restoration of the ionic gradients at the level of the skin.
- the Avena sativa L. plant as well as its Rhea variety, renamed Rhealba may be designated in an abbreviated manner by the term Avena sativa.
- “Fresh Avena sativa” is meant within the meaning of the present invention the aerial parts of oats, excluding the seeds alone, used fresh or (thawed) frozen, composed of 30 to 90% water, preferably 40 to 90% water, more preferably 40 to 80% water, by weight. It is thus understood that the aerial parts of the oats used to produce the juice have not undergone desiccation and are treated quickly after harvesting to limit water loss. They can be frozen for later processing.
- aerial part of oats the aerial parts of oat seedlings will be preferred.
- the fresh Avena sativa juice according to the invention is thus a juice of aerial parts of oats.
- the juice of fresh Avena sativa is a juice of the aerial parts of oat seedlings.
- Seedlings represent the part of the plant harvested before heading at the mid-height stage, i.e. approximately 2 months after cultivation, i.e. before the appearance of flowers and fruits (or grains). At this stage the plant is devoid of pollen proteins and grains.
- aerial parts is meant here the stems and the leaves and the flowers and in the case of seedlings only the stems and the leaves. These aerial parts do not include the fruits (also called grains) and, in the case of seedlings, they do not include the flowers either.
- the plant is not dried but can be frozen in order to keep its freshness characteristics.
- fresh Avena sativa juice is meant within the meaning of the present invention the water of Avina sativa, containing the molecules of interest, without any denaturation.
- Fresh plants that is to say non-dehydrated plants, in particular seedlings, and more particularly the aerial parts of seedlings, are subjected to a thermomechanical treatment consisting in extruding fresh Avina sativa in an extruder, associated with a heat treatment allowing to inactivate the endogenous enzymes and to preserve the molecules of compounds of interest in their native form, in the absence of solvent, followed by a juice recovery operation. It is thus clear that a “juice” is distinct from an “extract”.
- the molecules of interest are removed from the plant by means of a solvent which can be water, an organic solvent or a mixture thereof.
- a solvent which can be water, an organic solvent or a mixture thereof.
- Obtaining a juice does not require the use of any solvent.
- the juice therefore corresponds to the liquid fraction contained in the plant and extracted from the plant, in the present case by thermomechanical treatment.
- Fresh oat juice (INCI: Avena sativa (Oat) Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice) thus corresponds to the water naturally present in the aerial parts of oats, and more especially the aerial parts of oat seedlings.
- the plant wall sometimes hinders the recovery of certain compounds of interest.
- the native enzymes present in the plant are easily released and can begin to modify the compounds extracted in the juice and denature them: hydrolyses, oxidations, deglycosylations, etc.
- the extrusion makes it possible to completely destructure the plant walls of the plant and the very short heat treatment (a few seconds) makes it possible to neutralize the enzymes without damaging the molecules of interest present.
- thermomechanical treatment consisting in extruding the fresh plant, particularly the aerial parts of oat seedlings fresh, in an extruder, preferably a twin-screw extruder, combined with heat treatment.
- the extrusion is characterized by the passage of the fresh plant, particularly the aerial parts of oat seedlings fresh, in a twin-screw extruder composed of:
- Feed hopper an area for introducing fresh plants, particularly aerial parts of fresh oat seedlings: Feed hopper
- the main body of the extruder is made up of one or more sleeves in which the endless screws (co-rotating or counter-rotating), or screw segments, rotate.
- the endless screws co-rotating or counter-rotating
- it will be several adjacent successive sleeves.
- it will be two co-rotating endless screws.
- the screw profile may vary according to the shape of the screw thread (eg trapezoidal, conjugate, single or double, etc.) and the thread pitch.
- Each of these screws may also have different sections (or segments) which may possibly differ from each other, by the shape of the thread and/or by the thread pitch.
- constituent sections of these screws may also correspond to monolobe or trilobe mixer elements
- At least one filtering sheath which: intervenes if necessary for the solid/liquid separation; further comprises a filtration means, such as a grid, and; is located in particular at the exit of the extruder;
- - extruder control means such as: a drive unit: made up of a reduction motor and a torque divider, which provide the mechanical power necessary for the rotation of the screws; piloting automatons: allow the monitoring and control of the process.
- the parameters that can be adjusted are: the rotation speed of the screws and the temperature of each sheath.
- the extruder is a twin-screw extruder with co-rotating and co-penetrating screws.
- the method uses an extruder and preferably a twin-screw extruder, with several sheaths and finished with a filtering sheath, making it possible to vary the temperature and at the same time to apply shearing, intense mixing of the vegetable raw material, with the consequence of entailing a large number of compounds, destructuring the material but also to inhibit the endogenous enzymes at the same time by heat treatment.
- the method according to the invention therefore consists in extraditing fresh or frozen oat plants, in particular the aerial parts of these plants, and more particularly the aerial parts of fresh or even frozen oat seedlings. This is in order to extract a juice from it, then to proceed with the recovery and purification (collection) of this juice and finally in a last optional step, to stabilize the juice thus collected.
- the recovered juice can be subjected to a subsequent stabilization, clarification and/or filtration step.
- the juice of fresh oats is obtained by a thermomechanical treatment comprising or consisting of an operation of crushing said aerial parts by shearing at temperatures between 60°C and 300°C, preferably between 60 °C and 150°C, more particularly between 75°C and 140°C, more particularly still between 80 and 130°C, and even more particularly around 120°C.
- thermomechanical treatment is implemented in a twin-screw extruder comprising a first co-rotating and co-penetrating twin-screw zone where the trituration of the plants, plant parts, seedlings or parts of seedlings takes place, and a second twin-screw zone where the solid/liquid separation takes place.
- the flow in the twin-screw zone is generated by a pumping effect and not by friction forces between screw and barrel as appears in a single-screw extruder.
- the feeding, transport, mechanical shearing and thermomechanical treatment allowing the trituration of the fresh plants and the extraction of the juice are carried out in the first zone of the extruder, and the liquid/solid separation operation is carried out in the second area.
- the first zone comprises several successive sleeves whose temperatures are adjusted so as to present stages of increasing temperatures staggered between 60° C. and 130° C.
- the second zone comprises at least one sleeve brought to a temperature between 30°C and 130°C, preferably between 30°C and 100°C.
- fresh oat seedlings in particular the aerial parts of fresh oat seedlings, are extracted by a mechanical extrusion process using a twin-screw extruder, at around 100 to 130° C., in particular around 120°C, because it is at this temperature that the extrusion of flavonoids from the plant material is optimal.
- the juice thus obtained can be filtered and undergo ultrafiltration with a cut-off threshold of 3.5 kDa. In addition to the inactivation of proteins in the extruder, this filtration makes it possible to get rid of the last traces of proteins. Finally, the juice can undergo sterilizing filtration and stabilization in the presence of vegetable glycerin.
- Flavonoids isovitexin-2”-O-arabinoside, isoorientin-2”-O-arabinoside, content: 2 to 4%, particularly approximately 2.5% by weight relative to the dry matter (0.1 to 1, particularly about 0.2% by weight relative to pure juice),
- Total sugars glucose, galactose, fructose, content: from 40 to 50% by weight relative to the dry matter, particular about 44%,
- Mg 0.3 to 0.4% by weight, particularly around 0.6% relative to the dry matter
- Ca 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, especially 27%, relative to the dry matter
- Proteins no proteins detected in the permeate ( ⁇ 1.2 ppm by electrophoresis),
- topical application is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an application to the skin (including the scalp), the mucous membranes and/or the hair.
- epidermal barrier is meant within the meaning of the present invention the cellular structures of the epidermis, in particular the tissue barrier formed by the comeocytes and the intercellular lipid cement.
- carrier function of the skin or “epidermal barrier function” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, the protective function of the epidermis, in particular against external aggressions, and the regulation of the insensible loss of water and ions .
- cosmetically acceptable is meant within the meaning of the present invention what is useful in the preparation of a cosmetic composition, which is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable and which is acceptable for cosmetic use, in particular by topical application to the skin or hair.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a fresh Avena sativa juice for improving or strengthening the state of hydration of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the hydration state of the skin is obtained by the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the barrier function of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the maintenance and/or the reinforcement and/or the restoration of the ionic gradients at the level of the skin.
- these are calcium and/or magnesium and/or nitrogen gradients, preferably epidermal calcium and/or magnesium gradients.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained via the stimulation of the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the cosmetic use of a fresh Avena sativa juice makes it possible to stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a juice of "fresh Avena sativa for improving or strengthening the state of hydration of the skin by preventing disturbances of epidermal homeostasis , particularly associated with fragile skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one fresh Avena sativa juice with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for improving or strengthening the state of hydration. skin. More particularly, the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the barrier function of the skin. The improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin, is obtained via the stimulation of the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one fresh Avena sativa juice with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, for improving or strengthening the state of hydration of the skin by preventing disturbances of epidermal homeostasis, in particular associated with fragile skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the maintenance and/or the reinforcement and/or the restoration of the ionic gradients at the level of the skin.
- these are calcium and/or magnesium and/or nitrogen gradients, preferably epidermal calcium and/or magnesium gradients.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic method for improving or reinforcing the state of hydration of the skin, comprising the administration to a person in need thereof of an effective quantity of a juice of "Fresh Avena sativa or a cosmetic composition comprising at least one fresh Avena sativa juice with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
- the improvement and/or reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained via stimulation of the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the barrier function of the skin.
- the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin is obtained by the maintenance and/or the reinforcement and/or the restoration of the ionic gradients at the level of the skin.
- these are calcium and/or magnesium and/or nitrogen gradients, preferably epidermal calcium and/or magnesium gradients.
- the administration is carried out by topical application at the level of the skin of the person.
- the juice of fresh Avena sativa is obtained by an extrusion technique.
- the latter consists of a thermomechanical treatment consisting in extruding the fresh oats in an extruder, preferably a twin-screw extruder, combined with a heat treatment.
- the fresh Avena sativa juice recovered is subjected to a subsequent stabilization, clarification and/or filtration step.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01 and 10% by weight of fresh Avena sativa juice relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.1 and 10% by weight, in particular between 0.2 and 5% by weight, more particularly between 0.3 and 4% by weight, even more particularly between 0.4 and 3% by weight, and even more particularly between 0.5 and 2% (0.5 and 2 being included in the range) by weight of fresh Avena sativa juice relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the juice of fresh Avena sativa is present in the cosmetic composition at a content of approximately 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the fresh Avena sativa juice according to the invention is present in a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a dry matter content of between 2 and 20% of dry matter, particularly between 4 and 18%, more particularly still between 5 and 15% of dry matter by weight, relative to the weight of the juice.
- the fresh Avena sativa juice is present in the cosmetic composition at a content of approximately 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly approximately 0.5 to 5% by weight, more particularly still between 1% and 2% by weight, or even about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention are advantageously intended for topical application, in particular by application to the skin, including the scalp, or hair.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may thus be in the forms which are usually suitable and known for topical administration, that is to say, for example, in particular lotions, milks, emulsions, serums, balms, masks, creams, dispersions, gels, foams, sprays, shampoos.
- the invention thus relates to cosmetic compositions according to one of the embodiments of the present invention, characterized in that they are in a clean form and suitable for topical application.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in addition to the juice of fresh Avena sativa and a cosmetically acceptable excipient, may also contain surfactants, complexing agents, preservatives, antioxidants (such as tocopherols), stabilizing agents, emulsifiers , thickeners, gelling agents, humectants, emollients, trace elements, essential oils, perfumes, dyes, matting agents, chemical or mineral filters, moisturizing agents, thermal waters, etc.
- surfactants complexing agents, preservatives, antioxidants (such as tocopherols), stabilizing agents, emulsifiers , thickeners, gelling agents, humectants, emollients, trace elements, essential oils, perfumes, dyes, matting agents, chemical or mineral filters, moisturizing agents, thermal waters, etc.
- the fresh Avena sativa juice is prepared as described above and the cosmetic composition is as described above.
- the invention relates to the use of a fresh Avena sativa juice for the manufacture of a dermo-cosmetic composition intended for improving or strengthening the state of hydration of the skin.
- the dermo-cosmetic composition makes it possible to improve and/or reinforce the state of hydration of the skin, improvement and/or reinforcement being obtained by improving and/or reinforcing the barrier function of the skin.
- the cosmetic composition allows the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin via the maintenance and/or the reinforcement and/or the restoration of the ionic gradients at the level of the skin.
- these are calcium and/or magnesium and/or nitrogen gradients, preferably epidermal calcium and/or magnesium gradients.
- the cosmetic composition allows the improvement and/or the reinforcement of the state of hydration of the skin via the stimulation of the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the aim is thus to use a fresh Avena sativa juice for the manufacture of a dermo-cosmetic composition for stimulating the production of hyaluronic acid by the skin.
- the invention relates to the use of a juice of "fresh Avena sativa for the manufacture of a dermo-cosmetic composition for improving or strengthening the state of hydration of the skin. by preventing disturbances of epidermal homeostasis, in particular associated with fragile skin.
- the cosmetic composition is in a form suitable for topical application.
- Example 1 Obtaining a fresh oat juice by thermomechanical treatment 12.75 kg of thawed (24 h at 2° C.) fresh aerial parts of oats (Avena sativa L.) harvested with a forage harvester after 2 months of growth (oat seedlings) were introduced into the first barrel of a twin-screw extruder with co-rotating and co-penetrating screws CLEXTRAL BC45 which has 5. The temperature applied to the different barrels is 30°C / 120°C / 120°C / 120°C / 60°C.
- Extrusion technology therefore makes it possible to obtain more juice, and a juice richer in compounds, and in particular in bioactive compounds.
- the content, in% by weight, of flavonoids in the juice obtained by this example is 0.26%, whereas it is only 0.02% in the juice obtained by pressing with the same raw material. .
- the flavonoid content was therefore multiplied by 10 in this case.
- the temperature makes it possible to extract more compounds (including 4 times more flavonoids) and to obtain native molecules, not denatured by enzymes.
- Example 2 Effect of fresh Avena saliva juice prepared according to example 1 on the production of epidermal hyaluronic acid
- Hyaluronic acid which is a glycosaminoglycan, is a major component of the extracellular matrix of the skin, involved in its structure and organization (Manuskiatti and Maibach Int. J. Dermatol. 1996, 35(8), 539-544).
- hyaluronic acid polymers can bind water, forming a viscous substance (Tammi et al., J. Biol. Chem. 2002, 277(7), 4581-4584). Therefore, a loss of hyaluronic acid is associated with dehydration and loss of skin elasticity (Weindl et al., Skin Pharmacol. Physiol. 2004, 17(5), 207-213).
- the aim of this study is to evaluate the effects of oat juice prepared according to example 1 on the production of hyaluronic acid.
- the study is carried out on normal human epidermal keratinocytes, isolated from three different donors.
- the Avena saliva juice is prepared according to example 1, it is tested at concentrations of 30, 100 and 300 ug/ml (corresponding to 0.003%, 0.01% and 0.03% respectively). These concentrations correspond, respectively, to an addition of 30 or 100 or 300 ug (therefore more or less 30, 100 or 300pL) of Avena saliva juice for a total of 1 mL of culture medium.
- concentrations of 30, 100 and 300 ug/ml correspond, respectively, to an addition of 30 or 100 or 300 ug (therefore more or less 30, 100 or 300pL) of Avena saliva juice for a total of 1 mL of culture medium.
- concentration of 100 ug/mL one mixes 100 ug (therefore approximately 300 uL) of Avena saliva juice with the complement at 1000 ug (or 1000 uL) in culture medium, either in such case, 900 ⁇ g (or 900 ⁇ L) of culture medium.
- the Avena saliva juice is thus diluted and its components dissolved in the culture medium.
- the retinoic acid tested at 0.1 ⁇ M is used as reference product, it is dissolved in DMSO (0.66%).
- DMSO (0.66%) serves as a control.
- the normal human epidermal keratinocytes are cultured under standard conditions (37° C., 5% CO2).
- the culture medium is standard (keratinocyte-SEM supplemented with Epidermal Growth factor (EGF) 0.25ng/ml, pituitary extract 25ug/ml and gentamicin 25ug/ml).
- EGF Epidermal Growth factor
- culture supernatants are harvested for hyaluronic acid quantification. This is performed by ELISA (Duo set Hyaluronan, R&D System Ref DY3614) according to the supplier's procedures.
- the hyaluronic acid detection range is 0.37 to 90ng/ml.
- the inter-group comparison is carried out by a multiple comparison using Dunnett's test.
- the inventors thus clearly demonstrate that the juice of fresh A vena sativa by stimulating the production of epidermal hyaluronic acid helps to protect the epithelium against dehydration.
- Example 3 Effect of fresh Avena sativa juice prepared according to example 1 on a fragile skin model
- Fragile skin has physiological bases focused on the structure and function of the epidermal barrier. We can thus define fragile skin as a constitutional propensity for less resistance to environmental aggressions.
- the objective of this study was to set up and characterize at the cellular level a model of fragile or weakened skin on keratinocytes.
- the study is carried out on primary human keratinocytes, prepared from skin flaps from plastic surgery surgical waste (breast reduction). Each donor provides a primary culture of primary keratinocytes. The study was carried out with three different donors.
- the cells are cultured in KSEM medium (InvitrogenTM) with a low calcium content (0.1 mM) supplemented with 25 ⁇ g/ml of BPE (Bovin Pituitary Extract) and 1.5 ng/ml of EGE (Epithelium Growth Eactor).
- KSEM medium InvitrogenTM
- BPE Bovin Pituitary Extract
- EGE Epidermal Growth Eactor
- the cells are rinsed with Dulbecco's Phosphate Beffered Saline (IX) [-] CaCL [-] MgCb (D-PBS) (Gibco® - life TechnologiesTM) and recultured at time To with K- SFM without supplements.
- IX Dulbecco's Phosphate Beffered Saline
- D-PBS Dulbecco's Phosphate Beffered Saline
- Dehydration stress is carried out by placing the cells in a climatic chamber (Vôtsch - Industrietechnik) at 37°C and 15% humidity for 20 minutes. Treated cells are devoid of any fluid at the time of dehydration, while control cells are in Hanks' Balanced Salt Solution (IX)[+]CaCL[+]MgCb (HBSS) buffer (Gibco® - InvitrogenTM) replacing the culture medium. After dehydration, the cells are returned to culture at time To with K-SFM without supplements.
- IX Hanks' Balanced Salt Solution
- HBSS Hanks' Balanced Salt Solution
- HBSS Hanks' Balanced Salt Solution
- the cells When the cells are at 70% confluence, they are seeded in supplemented K-SFM medium (corresponding to the first day). On the second day, the cell medium is deprived of complements. On the third day, a first stress is carried out (SLS at 1 Oug/ml) following which the cells are returned to culture in unsupplemented K-SFM medium for 24 hours. On the fourth day, the cells undergo a second stress (dehydration for 20 minutes). The cells are recultured in non-supplemented K-SFM medium. After the second stress, cells are either lysed for mRNA extraction or fixed for immunostaining.
- SLS Supplemented K-SFM medium
- Figure 1 The flow diagram of the two stresses and equivalent controls is summarized in Figure 1.
- the fresh Avena sativa juice prepared according to Example 1 is tested with the aim of evaluating its preventive action against the second stress on cells weakened by the first test in SLS.
- the cells are seeded in 4-well Lab-Tek® culture chambers (Nalge Nunc International) at a rate of 150,000 cells per well. Immediately after the second stress, the cells are fixed with an acetone solution at -20° C. for 10 minutes. Before immunolabeling, the cells are rehydrated with D-PBS for 5 minutes, then the cell membranes are permeabilized with Triton® X-100 (T9284-Sigma Aldrich) at 0.1% for 15 minutes. After several rinses with D-PBS, the specific sites are saturated with Bovine Serum Albumin (BSA) (A4506 - Sigma® Life Science) at 3% for 15 minutes. Then, 300 ⁇ l of primary antibodies are added to each well, for 1 hour with stirring away from light.
- BSA Bovine Serum Albumin
- the anti-claudin 1 antibody (InvitrogenTM) is used at l/50th, the phalloidin Alexa Fluor® 488 ( Molecur probe®- Life TechnologiesTM) at l/50th and the anti-filaggrin antibody at l/50 eme (Abeam®). After several washes with D-PBS, the cells are incubated for 1 hour with shaking away from light with the secondary antibody at l/2000 th : Alexa Fluor® 488 goat anti-rabbit IgG (H+L ) (Molecular Probes® - Life TechnologiesTM) or Alexa Fluor® 488 F(ab')2 anti-mouse IgG (H+L) (Molecular Probes® - Life TechnologiesTM) depending on the primary antibody.
- RNA extraction is performed and then the RNAs are assayed. The total RNAs are then transformed into complementary DNA. The latter are used for real-time quantitative PCR on a TLD A (Taqman Low Density Array) plate according to the instructions provided by Applied Biosystems. IL-8 expression was analyzed.
- TLD A Traqman Low Density Array
- the relative quantities are calculated with the Expression Suite software and calculated relative to the control (non-dehydrated control).
- the regulation of gene expression of interest is taken into account from a RQ (Relative Quantity) > 1.8 (induction) or ⁇ 0.56 (inhibition).
- RQ Relative Quantity
- 1.8 induction
- ⁇ 0.56 inhibition
- this QR is therefore equal to 1.
- Double stress combines two simple stresses, that of SLS alteration and that of dehydration 24 hours apart.
- the purpose of this double stress is to create cellular weakening by the first stress. If the cells are weakened, the cellular response to the second stress should be exacerbated compared to cells that have not undergone the first stress.
- Table 3 Relative amount of IL-8 mRNA, 4 hours after double stress vs control and equivalent single stress controls
- the expression of the cytokine IL-8 (Table 3), produced by epithelial cells in response to an inflammatory stimulus, is at the limit of induction (QR 1.8) after 24 hours of SLS stress.
- the combination of the two stresses would exacerbate the inflammatory response, measured by the expression of IL-8. In this experiment, there was indeed a weakening of the cells by the first SLS stress.
- the characterization of the “weakened cells” model was established by a first stress with SLS (10 ⁇ g/ml) followed 24 hours later by a dehydration stress of 20 minutes.
- SLS stress weakens the cells, the state of the physical barrier is much more altered by the combination of the two stresses (even with an interval of 24 hours between the two) than by simple stresses.
- the total restoration of the physical barrier is done during the 48 hours following the last stress.
- cells show actin cytoskeleton disorganization, tight junctions, and decreased filaggrin labeling.
- the reference product trehalose, shows a labeling close to that obtained with the control in terms of fluorescence intensity and homogeneity. It therefore seems to limit the disorganization of tight junctions and therefore validates the experiment.
- the juice of fresh Avena sativa prepared according to example 1, at 100 ug/ml, allows almost total protection of the organization of the tight junctions against the second stress of dehydration.
- the markings obtained under these conditions are homogeneous, well localized on the cell membranes and of similar intensity to the untreated control.
- the double stress immediately leads to a modification of the actin network visualized by a loss of intensity and heterogeneity of the labeling.
- the reference product, trehalose shows an intense and homogeneous marking, close to the marking of the control condition.
- the actin network is not disorganized as in the case of the double stress condition without active. Trehalose therefore limits the disorganization of the actin cytoskeleton and therefore validates the experiment.
- filaggrin labeling is always present immediately after the stress.
- the marking is fairly homogeneous and the intensity of the marked areas is similar to those of the control.
- This fresh Avena sativa juice at 100 ug/ml provides good protection against filaggrin labeling against the second stress of dehydration.
- the inventors clearly demonstrate by protein analysis that protection and/or restoration of the organization of tight junctions, of the actin cytoskeleton and of filaggrin labeling is obtained in the presence of Avina sativa juice fresh prepared T1 according to Example 1 at 1 ug/ml (results not shown) but especially at 1 OOug/ml immediately after the double stress.
- the double stress model has made it possible to set up a model of weakened cells. Indeed, an alteration of the barrier function (disorganization of the actin network, tight junctions and filaggrin labeling) is observed when the cells undergo a double stress compared to those which have not undergone the first stress. .
- the juice of fresh Avena sativa prepared according to example 1 protects the cells weakened by the first stress, from the alteration of the barrier function (labeling of filaggrin, tight junctions by Claudin 1, and of the actin cytoskeleton ) induced by the second stress.
- the juice of fresh Avena sativa prepared according to example 1 limits or even prevents the development of the fragile skin towards a significant imbalance of dehydration following the induction of a second stress.
- Example 4 Effect of fresh Avena sativa juice prepared according to example 1 on a model of reconstructed epidermis having undergone dehydration stress
- the model used in this study is a model of reconstructed epidermis resulting from skin resections from cosmetic surgery according to the method described by Frankart et al. (Frankart et al., Exp Dermatol 2012, 21(11), 871-875).
- the cells (keratinocytes) are isolated from skin resections, then placed in culture before being seeded on culture inserts immersed in culture medium then the culture inserts are placed at the air/liquid interface in an incubator at 37°C in a humidified atmosphere with 5% CO2 to generate a differentiated, stratified epidermis and a stratum corneum.
- the Avena sativa juice prepared according to Example 1 is tested at 0.5 and 1% by weight (solubilized in a saline solution) versus the placebo group (saline solution).
- the cell membrane forms a functional barrier around the cell, traffics in and out of the cell are strongly regulated by transporters, receptors and secretory pathways. When the cells are damaged, they become less hermetic, leaks and water losses appear, this anomaly constitutes the basis of the LDH test. Membrane integrity is determined by measuring LDH in the extracellular medium. This enzyme is normally only present in the cytosol unless cell damage occurs.
- the procedure for LDH release measurement is as follows: A commercially available kit (Cytotoxicity Detection Kit-LDH, Roche) was used to quantify the LDH released in the culture media by a colorimetric test based on the detection of Formazan salt. The culture supernatant is collected and incubated with the reaction mixture included in the kit for 20 minutes at room temperature, protected from light. An increase in the quantity of dead cells or whose plasma membrane is damaged results in a release of LDH leading to an increase in the enzymatic activity of LDH in the culture media.
- the LDH release values are expressed in mU/ml after 24 hours of dehydration stress and 4 hours of pretreatment with the products.
- Histological evaluation is a complementary endpoint, useful to confirm biochemical investigations and for a better understanding of the type of interactions between the product and living tissue.
- the tissues were fixed in 10% buffered formalin.
- the samples were embedded in paraffin blocks and these were cut into 5um sections. Slides are stained with hematoxylin and eosin using standard procedures.
- the histological samples were analyzed under an optical microscope (x20 and x40 magnification). Global morphology and changes compared to controls were analyzed on at least 3 sections of the same tissue.
- a histological score is noted:
- the score noted is between 2 and 3.
- the structure of the stratum corneum is modified and the lamellar structure is partially destroyed.
- Significant changes are found in the granular layer with a decrease in keratoyalin and some necrotic cells are observed.
- Some changes in the basal layer are also present, with holes at the intercellular level and the beginning of detachment of the polycarbonate filter tissue.
- the aim of this study is to analyze the gradients of elements through the epidermis by scanning electron microscopy coupled to an energy dispersive microanalyzer.
- EDX Energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy
- This technique is based on the study of a sample through the interactions between electromagnetic radiation and matter, the analysis of X-rays emitted by matter in response to charged particles. Its characterization capabilities are largely due to the fundamental principle that each element has a unique atomic structure. Therefore, EDX allows the detection of elements such as calcium, oxygen, carbon, nitrogen, magnesium, sodium and chloride. Digitization of cross-sections of epidermis by EDX allows the description of these gradients of elements within the entire epidermis.
- Preparing samples for scanning electron microscopy involves fixing the tissue in glutaraldehyde, followed by drying, fixing to a metal tip and then applying a coating with a metal before collecting the data.
- the thin metallic coating usually gold
- Computerized image acquisition provides a permanent record.
- the scanning electron microscope can be combined with other analytical methods such as energy dispersive X-ray analysis to determine the distribution of elements.
- a general configuration of the instrument parameters, related to the tissue characteristics must be made. Initial imaging is performed by observing the full sagittal surface (cross section) of the tissue with the microscope on each image to find the best condition for further EDX analysis.
- the following parameters are relevant: homogeneous and flat surfaces, absence of holes and plicae, to draw a line (green line) along the transverse section of the tissue (on which 100 measurements are collected) avoiding artifacts in the measurement content and distribution of elements.
- a green line transverse to the tissue is determined according to the thickness, the average value of the thickness (in this case 80um) is defined to compare all the samples with the maximum precision in the presence of the specific peak.
- the inventors unmasked that the gradients of three elements were altered by dehydration stress in a reproducible manner, namely calcium, magnesium and nitrogen.
- a calcium gradient is well found in the control conditions, with the presence of 3 highly concentrated peaks at the level of the lower basal stratum, the lower stratum spinosum and the upper stratum granulosum.
- the stress of dehydration leads to the disappearance of the calcium gradient with in particular the loss of the 3 peaks.
- oat juice a strong increase in calcium is observed between the stratum spinosum and the stratum granulosum, this result is more marked with the juice 'Avena sativa fresh at 1% compared to 0.5%. This restoration of the calcium gradient is not observed in the placebo group.
- magnesium In normal skin, magnesium is localized with high concentrations in the upper epidermis. Magnesium localization plays an important role in skin barrier homeostasis. Studies have shown that an acute disruption of the barrier leads to the disappearance of a magnesium gradient, while the application of magnesium salts accelerates the repair of the barrier (Denda et al., Arch. Dermatol Res 291 , 560-563, 1999).
- a magnesium gradient across the entire epidermis is clearly visible under control conditions (peak in the stratum spinosum).
- Dehydration stress induces a very marked drop in magnesium, mainly in the middle part of the stratum spinosum, which may reflect disturbances of the barrier.
- Oat juice at both concentrations tested restores the magnesium gradient unlike the placebo.
- fresh A vena sativa juice induces a strong increase in magnesium in the upper layers of the epidermis, suggesting that oat juice promotes the sustainability of the magnesium gradient in the epidermis.
- Nitrogen balance expresses the balance between protein anabolism and catabolism.
- Urea and ammonia are indicators of nitrogen metabolism and are linked to dry skin.
- Urea ammonium compound
- Urea is a constituent of NMF and has been described to be significantly decreased in NMF in the skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (Sugawara et al., Journal of Dermatological Science, 66(2), 154-159, 2012).
- urea is a powerful emollient and keratolytic agent.
- the nitrogen content is evenly distributed in the epidermis with a slight decrease in the stratum corneum.
- Dehydration stress induces a nitrogen peak in the stratum corneum which could reflect the activation of proteolytic and glycolytic enzymes involved in the desquamation process, resulting in the production of nitrogen compounds such as urea. This phenomenon could represent a compensatory biological response to dehydration stress.
- Oat juice at the two concentrations tested induces a marked and general increase in all epidermal layers, this not being observed with the placebo formulation.
- Avena sativa juice therefore induces a good restoration of epidermal ionic gradients, in particular those of calcium and magnesium, which are essential for the barrier function, as well as morphological protection against dehydration stress.
- the juice of Avena sativa therefore has an activity on the prevention and maintenance of epidermal ionic gradients and consequently on the prevention of disturbances of epidermal homeostasis associated with fragile skin and helps to strengthen the barrier function.
- Figure 1 is a schematic of the realization of the double stress and single stress equivalent controls.
- Figure 2 is a diagram of the modus operandi of asset valuation on the double stress model.
- Figure 3 is a diagram of the process for obtaining fresh oat juice by thermomechanical treatment.
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FR2012618A FR3117035B1 (fr) | 2020-12-03 | 2020-12-03 | Jus d’Avena sativa fraiche dans la prévention et la réduction des perturbations de l’homéostasie épidermique |
PCT/FR2021/052198 WO2022117973A1 (fr) | 2020-12-03 | 2021-12-03 | Jus d'avena sativa fraiche dans la prévention et la réduction des perturbations de l'homéostasie épidermique |
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FR2925329B1 (fr) * | 2007-12-21 | 2010-02-26 | Vincience | Utilisation d'un hydrolysat d'avoine en tant que principe actif activateur de la synthese des aquaporines |
FR2938439B1 (fr) * | 2008-11-14 | 2013-03-01 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Extrait de parties aeriennes d'avoine recoltees avant epiaison |
FR3010613B1 (fr) | 2013-09-18 | 2020-12-04 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Obtention d'un jus de plantes fraiches par traitement thermomecanique et son utilisation en cosmetique et therapeutique |
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