Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
  • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and in particular the field of compact powders, particularly intended for cosmetic care and/or makeup of the skin.
• STATE OF THE ART Compact powders for make-up and/or care of the skin can be prepared by the “dry” route or by the “wet” route if a solvent or a diluent is used to disperse the powders.
• pulverulent materials such as fillers and pigments are mixed with a binder essentially composed of non-volatile fatty substances.
• the powdery materials and the binder are diluted in a solvent to obtain a paste (otherwise called “slurry”) which is then dried.
• the compact powders are generally prepared by mixing all the components of the pulverulent phase then by adding to this mixture a binding fatty phase with stirring. The mixture is then crushed, sieved, then poured into a dish and compacted. The compaction is typically carried out at a pressure of 5 to 25 MPa.
• wet process the manufacturing process uses a paste (slurry) and does not include a dry compaction step. The trend of creamy powders, with improved sensory and comfort properties compared to classic powders, is highly sought after and that is why slurry is an interesting and up-to-date technology.
• 'Slurry' is a term used to designate a cosmetic paste (suspension) composed of a particulate phase (fillers and pigments), a non-volatile liquid phase (binder to provide smoothness to the powder and a creamy side) and a solvent, which will be evaporated during the process.
• the most commonly used solvent is isododecane but due to technological and environmental developments, water is now preferred because it is a solvent that brings fewer technological risks.
• the use of water in a slurry process aimed at manufacturing make-up products with pigments can generate formulation incompatibilities or product surface inhomogeneities, such as mottling or other color irregularities, which give a visual aspect less perfect and less attractive for consumers.
• the present invention therefore aims to provide new solid cosmetic make-up compositions, in particular compact make-up powders, which have a homogeneous appearance, in particular when they are produced by a water slurry process.
• the term “homogeneous” is understood to mean a composition in which the various constituents and in particular the pigments are distributed to give a uniform or substantially uniform appearance to the naked eye.
• the composition obtained according to the process of the invention does not exhibit surface color irregularities, such as mottling.
• a first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a compact powder
• a solid phase comprising at least: fillers and pigments treated with an additive of formula (I) [Chem 1] in which: - n represents 1 or 2, - M represents H or a cation, - m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation, - R represents: - a group G chosen from a saccharide or a -[CH 2 -CHR 1 -O] q -R 2 or -[CH 2 - CH(CH 2 OH)-O] q -R 2 group where: - q represents an integer from 1 to 1000, - for each CH 2 -CHR 1 -O unit, R 1 independently represents H or a methyl, - R 2
• composition generally means the final cosmetic composition obtained according to the process of the invention, to be distinguished from the paste or slurry, which is obtained in an intermediate step of the process.
• a first aspect of the invention is therefore a solid cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a compact powder
• a solid phase comprising at least: fillers and pigments treated with an additive of formula (I) [Chem 1] in which: - n represents 1 or 2, - M represents H or a cation, - m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation, - R represents: - a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group -[CH 2 -CHR 1 -O] q -R 2 or -[CH 2 - CH(CH 2 OH)-O] q -R 2 where: - q represents an integer from 1 to 1000, - for each CH 2 -CHR 1 -O unit, R 1 independently represents H or a methyl, -
• compact powder is meant a solid composition based on powders, distinct from a loose powder, and more particularly in the present case, a composition comprising at least one solid phase shaped by a so-called compaction step (compression ) during which pressure is applied to a paste formed from said solid phase and a liquid phase comprising at least water, intended to provide said solid phase with cohesion such that the composition obtained is solid , namely that it does not flow under its own weight and retains its shape over time.
• compaction step compression
• pressure applied to the particulate phase is generally prepared dry by simply mixing the ingredients, possibly accompanied by grinding and sieving, without a compaction step aimed at shaping the particulate phase.
• Compact powders are generally prepared by mixing all the components of the particulate phase and then adding a liquid phase to this mixture with stirring. The mixture is then poured into a cup, bucket or mold and compacted. Compacting is typically carried out at a pressure of 5 to 25 MPa, and results in a reduction in the volume of the compacted composition
• a compact powder is different from a "cast" composition which, conversely, consists mainly of waxes and binders.
• a cast composition is prepared by heating a fatty phase which is solid at room temperature and which needs to be melted in order to be mixed with pulverulent materials.
• the composition of the invention will generally have a hardness ranging from 100 to 500 Gf (gram strength), in particular from 200 to 400 Gf (gram strength).
• the hardness of a composition can be measured according to the following protocol.
• the hardness is measured using a TA.XT PLUS TEXTURE ANALYSER (STABLE MICROSYSTEMS) texturometer, equipped with a rod on which is fixed a cylinder with a diameter of 5 mm which is applied to the surface of the compact.
• the cylinder penetration force is measured over a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm/second.
• the composition according to the invention is obtained by a process comprising the following steps: (i) mixing a liquid phase comprising at least water and the solid phase in powder form, to form a pastry ; and (ii) shaping of the paste by compacting and total or partial elimination of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.
• a liquid phase comprising at least water and the solid phase in powder form, to form a pastry
• shaping of the paste by compacting and total or partial elimination of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder.
• the compact powder obtained can be anhydrous (total elimination) or include a final water content depending on the desired moisturizing properties.
• the eliminated liquid phase comprises water and any additional volatile or non-volatile solvents and binders (oils).
• the liquid phase can consist of volatile or non-volatile liquids at room temperature.
• This elimination step is controlled so as to obtain the desired final percentage of water in the composition. Reference will thus be made to 'controlled elimination' or 'controlled aspiration' in the illustrative examples of the invention.
• This step of total or partial elimination of the liquid phase makes it possible to substantially eliminate the liquid phase in order to solidify the composition.
• the total or partial elimination of the liquid phase can be carried out with mechanical means such as suction, or thermal means such as heat.
• the elimination of the liquid phase can also comprise the combination of the means described previously.
• the elimination of the liquid phase contained in the paste comprises a mechanical elimination followed by a thermal elimination.
• the method may for example comprise two successive steps: the partial drying of the paste using mechanical removal means to obtain a wet powder, and the drying of the wet powder by thermal means.
• Mechanical removal can be achieved by suction under a press
• thermal removal can be achieved by example by drying in an oven, preferably at a temperature below 70°C, more preferably still below 60°C. ambient temperature and in particular with a compression pressure between 1 and 4 bars and a suction pressure between 1 and 4 bars (limits included).
• a person skilled in the art will be able to adapt the duration of this step to optimize the total or partial elimination of the liquid phase.
• the total or partial elimination of the liquid phase is done by suction under vacuum, at ambient temperature at a compression pressure of 1 to 2 bars and a suction pressure of 1 to 2 bars, for 3 to 20 seconds, in particular a compression pressure of 2 bar and a suction pressure of 1 bar for 20 seconds.
• the paste can include a higher or lower proportion of liquid depending on the duration and the means of elimination used.
• the water thus preferably represents from 10% to 70% by weight by weight of the paste, and from 0% to 35% by weight of the final solid composition according to the invention.
• the water content of the final compact powder can vary from 0 to 50% by weight of the composition.
• the water content of the solid compositions of the invention will generally range from 0% to 50% by weight of water, in particular from 10% to 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the composition of the invention is anhydrous, that is to say comprising less than 1% by weight of water and advantageously is free of water (0% water). This is the case where the elimination of water from the dough is total.
• this elimination step may comprise a heating step, for example by drying in an oven, preferably at a temperature below 70° C., even more preferably below 60 °C.
• the composition of the invention comprises a water content ranging from 1% to 40%, in particular from 5% to 30%, or even from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
• Solid phase The solid phase is initially, before the shaping step, in powder form. This is why it will also be designated by the term particulate solid phase or even by the generic term “powder” or even "pulverulent phase” when the solid phase is designated before the shaping step, when said phase solid is mixed with a liquid phase to form a paste.
• This solid phase consists of a mixture of particles of different shapes, not being limited to the following shapes: rods, platelets and spherical.
• the fillers in the form of platelets are in high proportion in the cosmetic formulas of the invention.
• these white fillers can be added texture and touch agents such as spherical fillers to provide glide.
• the aim is to optimize the ratio of the different powders so that they compact while maintaining satisfactory sensoriality (gliding, pick-up and softness properties) and the desired shade.
• the particulate solid phase advantageously consists of a mixture of pulverulent materials comprising at least one pigment and/or at least one filler.
• the pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and pearlescent pigments.
• the mineral pigments can be chosen from iron oxides, in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; titanium dioxide, manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxides, in particular hydrated chromium oxide, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof.
• the organic pigments mention may in particular be made of the lakes obtained from dyes such as the dyes D&C Black No. 2, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C orange No. 10, D&C No. red 3, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C red No. 9, D&C red No. 13, D&C red No.
• the nacreous pigments are for example chosen from mica covered with titanium oxide, mica-titanium covered with iron oxide, mica-titanium covered with ferric blue, mica-titanium covered with chromium oxide, or tin oxide; mica-titanium covered with an organic pigment as described previously, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
• the composition of the invention will comprise pigments or a pigmentary composition comprising a pigment and an additive of formula (I) [Chem 1] in which: - n represents 1 or 2, - M represents H or a cation, - m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation, - R represents: - a group G chosen from a saccharide or a -[CH 2 -CHR 1 -O] q -R 2 or -[CH 2 - CH(CH 2 OH)-O] q -R 2 group where: - q represents an integer from 1 to 1000, - for each CH 2 -CHR 1 -O unit, R 1 independently represents H or a methyl, - R 2 represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and, - a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500
• Such pigments are described in particular in the international application WO2012120098 from SENSIENT.
• This pigmentary composition is suitable for introduction into a cosmetic composition, in particular aqueous. It is generally in the form of a powder comprising the pigment and the additive intimately mixed, the additive generally being adsorbed or precipitated on the surface of the pigment.
• a pigmentary composition in powder form is particularly advantageous compared to a composition in liquid form (suspension, emulsion or solution). It turns out that the pigment compositions described in application WO2012120098 disperse very easily and effectively in an aqueous medium or in the continuous aqueous phase of an oil-in-water emulsion.
• hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 50, typically from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
• Hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched or cyclic.
• the preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups) , alkenyl (preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6), aryl (preferably having 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms) or alkylaryl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms).
• alkyl groups preferably having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups
• alkenyl preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6
• aryl preferably having 6 to 10 carbon atoms
• arylalkyl preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms
• alkylaryl preferably having 7 to 10 carbon
• M can in particular be an inorganic cation, such as Ag 3+ , Al 3+ , Fe 3+ , Fe 2+ , Ag 2+ , Zn 2+ , Sn 2+ , Ca 2+ , Ba 2+ , Ag + , Na + or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H 3 N + -(CH 2 ) 2 -OH) or a quaternary ammonium.
• DEA diethanolammonium
• the pigment or pigmentary composition comprises an additive of formula (II) below: [Chem 2] In which M and m are as defined above, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula -[CH 2 - CH(CH 2 OH)-O ] q -R 2 where q represents 1 and R 2 represents H.
• a glycerophosphate additive of formula (III) below is used: [Chem 3] which corresponds to an additive of formula (II) in which M represents Na and m represents 1, this additive being advantageously commercially available.
• the pigments used according to the invention are pigments treated with sodium glycerophosphate (otherwise called 'SGP' pigments), in particular iron oxides treated with such an additive.
• 'SGP' pigments pigments treated with sodium glycerophosphate
• iron oxides treated with such an additive Mention may in particular be made of the pigments treated with a sodium glycerophosphate (SGP) from SENSIENT marketed according to the following references: Unipure red LC381 SGP (iron oxides, CI77491 and CI 77499 and sodium glycerophosphate) Unipure black LC989 SGP (iron oxides, CI 77499 and alumina and magnesium oxide and sodium glycerophosphate) Unipure yellow LC182 SGP (iron oxides, CI 77492 and sodium glycerophosphate) Unipure white LC 981 SGP (titanium dioxide, CI 77891 and sodium glycerophosphate).
• SGP
• an additive of formula (V) [Chem 4] which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a cyclohexyl hydrocarbon chain substituted in positions 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 by a phosphate group of formula OPO 3 H 2 .
• phytic acid of formula (V') [Chem 5] which corresponds to an additive of formula (V) in which M represents H and m represents 1, this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Nutriscience® .
• the pigments treated with a phytic acid solution of formula (V′) are described in application WO2012/120098 and FR3080116 from Sensient.
• PHY phytic acid
• Unipure red LC388 PHY red iron oxide, CI 77491 and phytic acid and sodium hydroxide
• Unipure black LC 998 PHY CI 77499 and phytic acid and sodium glycerophosphate
• Unipure yellow LC 188 PHY CI 77492 and phytic acid and sodium glycerophosphate
• Unipure white LC 985 PHY anastase , CI 77891 and phytic acid and sodium glycerophosphate ).
• the composition of the invention will comprise pigments treated with an additive of formula (I), (II) (III), (V) or (V'), preferably a sodium glycerophosphate additive of formula (III), or an additive phytic acid of formula (V'), in a content ranging from 0.5% to 60%, in particular from 0.8% to 50% and preferably from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the total pigment content will generally range from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the total pigment content will generally range from 8% to 30% by weight, in particular from 12% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Fillers Fillers can be mineral or organic, and of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong. According to a particular embodiment, the fillers are chosen from platelet fillers, spherical fillers and mixtures thereof.
• the fillers advantageously have an average diameter greater than 100 nanometers and less than 200 micrometers, and more particularly a diameter of between 5 and 150 micrometers.
• the fillers can be treated so as to modify their surface condition.
• the fillers used can advantageously be surface-treated to make them hydrophobic or hydrophilic, while guaranteeing sufficient cohesion of the powder of the invention.
• the fillers can be treated in the same way as the aforementioned pigments, with a hydrophilic additive as described above.
• the fillers are chosen in particular from inorganic fillers such as: - talc, preferably in the form of particles generally of dimensions less than 40 ⁇ m; - micas of natural or synthetic origin, sericites, having dimensions of 2 to 200 micrometers ( ⁇ m), preferably of 5 to 70 ⁇ m and a thickness of 0.1 to 5 ⁇ m, preferably of 0.2 to 3 ⁇ m; - kaolin having particle sizes generally less than 30 ⁇ m; - metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate , magnesium myristate, preferably in the form of particles having dimensions of less than 10 ⁇ m; these metal soaps play in particular the role of cohesive agent in the powder; - zinc oxides;
• organic fillers mention may be made in particular of: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked starches, for example corn, wheat, rice or potato starches; - cellulose powders; - synthetic polymer powders, crosslinked or not, spheronized or not, expanded or not, such as polyamide powders (for example poly-R-alanine powders and nylon powders such as those marketed under the name ORGASOL®) , poly(meth)acrylic acid or poly(meth)acylate powders such as crosslinked methyl methacrylate powders, silicone resin powders such as silsesquioxanes, - and mixtures thereof.
• polyamide powders for example poly-R-alanine powders and nylon powders such as those marketed under the name ORGASOL®
• poly(meth)acrylic acid or poly(meth)acylate powders such as crosslinked methyl methacrylate powders
• silicone resin powders such as silsesquioxanes, - and mixtures thereof.
• the composition of the invention will comprise at least fillers playing the role of excipient, fillers playing a role on the texture and the feel and fillers playing a cohesion role within the composition.
• the composition of the invention will advantageously comprise: A filler chosen from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulphate, amino acids, starches, and their mixtures, as excipient agent ; A filler chosen from the group consisting of silicas, silicone resin, PMMA, cellulose, and Nylon-12, as texture or feel agent, and A filler chosen from the group of metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate and mixtures thereof.
• the composition will advantageously comprise spherical fillers and platelet fillers.
• the platelet fillers are chosen from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulphate, amino acids and their mixtures and the spherical fillers are chosen in the group consisting of silica, PMMA particles, cellulose particles, nylon particles, silicone resin particles, starches and mixtures thereof.
• composition of the invention may advantageously comprise at least: A filler selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulphate, amino acids, and mixtures thereof, as platelet filler; and A filler selected from the group consisting of silicas, silicone resin, PMMA, cellulose, and Nylon-12, starches and mixtures thereof as a spherical filler.
• a filler selected from the group consisting of talc, mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, boron nitride, barium sulphate, amino acids, and mixtures thereof, as platelet filler and
• a filler selected from the group consisting of silicas, silicone resin, PMMA, cellulose, and Nylon-12, starches and mixtures thereof as a spherical filler The content of spherical fillers and platelet fillers can be adjusted according to the desired properties.
• the composition may comprise a content ranging from 0.1 to 50%, in particular 1 to 25% by weight, of spherical fillers chosen from the group consisting of silica, silicone resin, PMMA, cellulose, Nylon-12, and mixtures thereof. , and a content ranging from 0.1% to 70%, in particular 1% to 60%, of platelet fillers.
• the composition also comprises at least one filler chosen from metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, in a content ranging from 0% to 10% by weight with respect to to the total weight of said composition, to improve the cohesion of the powder obtained according to the invention.
• Liquid phase The liquid phase comprises at least water.
• the water content of the final compact powder can vary from 0 to 50% by weight of the composition.
• the water content of the solid compositions of the invention will generally range from 0% to 50% by weight of water, in particular from 10% to 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the composition of the invention is anhydrous, that is to say comprising less than 1% by weight of water and advantageously is free of water (0% water). This is the case where the elimination of water from the dough is total.
• the composition of the invention comprises a water content ranging from 1% to 40%, in particular from 5% to 30%, or even from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
• the presence of water in the compact powder makes it possible to obtain, at the time of application of the composition to the skin, a feeling of freshness resulting from the almost instantaneous evaporation of the water on contact with the skin. This surprising effect is particularly sought after in the case of compositions applied to the face because it provides a feeling of well-being sought by the consumer who uses this type of product.
• the liquid phase can advantageously also comprise at least one hydroxylated compound chosen from a polyol, a polyol ether and mixtures thereof.
• - C3-C6 polyols for example a C3-C6 aliphatic diol (or glycol) such as propane-1,2-diol (or propylene glycol), propane-1,3-diol, a butylene glycol, pentylene glycol (pentane-1,5-diol), or a triol such as glycerol, - a glycol ether or an aromatic alcohol such as phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof .
• the composition comprises at least one C3-C5 polyol, preferably glycerol.
• the total content of polyol(s) and/or glycol ether(s) in the composition of the invention will in particular range from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1 % to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the total content of polyol(s) and/or glycol ether(s), in particular of glycerol ranges from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Oily phase (optional)
• the composition can also comprise, optionally, an oily phase comprising at least one oil.
• oily phase means an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with each other.
• oil is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, and of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
• the oily phase can comprise binders of various kinds such as fatty esters, silicones, hydrocarbon oils, butters, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, fatty esters, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof will be used. These ingredients play the role of binders of the particulate solid phase at the time of compaction of the dough and provide cohesion, and in terms of texture, creaminess, comfort on application and a care side, non-drying to the powder.
• hydrocarbon oils mention may in particular be made of linear or branched C8-C16 alkanes, branched C8-C16 esters, hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic C10-C40 ethers, synthetic C10- C40, C12-C26 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 higher fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
• isononyl isonanoate pentaerythrityl triisostearate, iso-hexyl neopentanoate or a hydrocarbon such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, n-dodecane (C 12 ) and n-tetradecane (C 14 ) or the undecane-tridecane mixture.
• silicone oils mention may in particular be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils, phenyl or non-phenyl silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
• composition of the invention may optionally comprise structuring or gelling agents of the liquid phase, in particular hydrophilic gelling agents (or suspending agents), pasty fatty substances or waxes, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
• hydrophilic gelling agents include acrylic acid polymers, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, xanthan gums, carrageenan gums, agar gums, guar gums, gellan, sclerotium gums, chitosans, mannans, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, pectins, mineral gelling agents such as bentones or modified silicas, and mixtures thereof.
• the solid composition also comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from a bentonite gel, a hectorite gel, and mixtures thereof.
• Film-forming agents The composition can advantageously comprise a film-forming agent, preferably a film-forming polymer.
• Film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support.
• the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer.
• copolymer is meant a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure.
• the film-forming agents have an ability to form a film on the surface of the skin at the time of application of the composition, and make it possible to obtain an improvement in the hold over time and in the resistance to sebum, to perspiration or mechanical constraints, in particular related to facial movements.
• the formation of this film thus makes it possible to improve and prolong the hold of the composition, and therefore the effect produced by said composition, but also to give it a so-called “non-transfer” property.
• the compositions according to the invention comprising at least one such film-forming agent are referred to as “long-lasting” and/or “non-transferring”.
• These film-forming agents can be dissolved in a liquid phase according to their affinity or else be dispersed in the form of particles or latex in a phase in which they are insoluble.
• These film-forming agents are advantageously polymers which can be hydrophilic in nature and thus have an affinity for the aqueous phase, or hydrophobic in nature and have an affinity for the optional oily phase of the composition.
• the hydrophilic character is in particular conferred by the presence of oxygen or nitrogen atoms in the molecule, in the form of hydroxylated, carboxylic, acrylic, ester, amide, urethane or other groups comprising heteroatoms or even a ether or ketone function.
• the hydrophobic character is linked to the absence of oxygen or nitrogen atoms and more generally of heteroatoms in the molecule, and the exclusive presence of hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic, linear or branched.
• Hydrophilic film-forming agents can advantageously be chosen from synthetic compounds such as polyurethanes and their derivatives, and more particularly aqueous dispersions of polyurethane which may have a solids content (dry matter) of 20 to 60% by weight, in particular polyurethane -35, polyalkylenes, such as polyisoprene.
• polyurethane dispersions are for example Polyurethane-34 sold under the commercial references Baycusan® C1000, C1001 by the company BAYER, and Polyurethane-35, which comprises 41% polyurethane in dry matter in dispersion in water, sold under the commercial reference Baycusan® C1004 by the company BAYER (COVESTRO).
• hydrophilic film-forming agents from compounds that are natural or of natural origin, such as native or chemically modified polysaccharides, and in particular pullulan or one of its derivatives, a starch or one of its derivatives and mixtures thereof.
• the composition comprises a hydrophilic film-forming polymer, advantageously chosen from native or chemically modified polysaccharides.
• the film-forming polymer is chosen from pullulan or its derivatives, a starch or its derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl starch.
• a particularly preferred starch derivative is hydroxypropyl starch (INCI Hydroxypropyl Starch).
• the composition comprises at least one polyol or one polyol ether and at least one hydrophilic film-forming agent.
• the hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the percentage of hydrophobic film-forming polymer is expressed as % by weight of dry extract (dry matter or active matter, my) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition may comprise at least one hydrophobic polymer, to improve the hold properties of the film of the composition on the skin.
• Hydrophobic or fat-soluble film-forming polymer means a film-forming polymer dissolved in the optional oily phase of the composition.
• the hydrophobic film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin, and is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of: - trimethylsiloxysilicates such as Belsil TMS 803 (WACKER), KF7312 from Shin Etsu - phenylalkylsiloxysilicates in which the alkyl group comprises preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, - silicone acrylate polymers such as acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as for example KP-545 from Shin-Etsu) , acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as K
• the hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the percentage of hydrophobic film-forming polymer is expressed as % by weight of dry extract (dry matter or active matter, my) relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Additional Ingredients may also comprise at least one additional ingredient chosen from dyes, surfactants, perfumes, electrolytes, antioxidants, preservatives, and physical and/or chemical UV filters.
• the composition of the invention can advantageously incorporate any type of cosmetic active agent, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic.
• the preferred active agents are chosen from the group consisting of active agents having a moisturizing activity such as hyaluranic acid or ceramides, active agents having an anti-ageing activity; active agents having a smoothing activity and on the radiance of the complexion active agents having a depigmenting activity or a skin lightening activity; active agents having a slimming activity; active agents having a moisturizing activity; active agents having a soothing or relaxing activity; and their mixtures.
• the composition is advantageously devoid of surfactant, because it is not necessary, unlike the powders of the prior art obtained by pasting powdery materials with water, to use a surfactant for guarantee a good homogeneity of the dough.
• the surfactant content in the composition of the invention will be less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition of the invention does not comprise a surfactant.
• a composition of the invention will also comprise at least one suspending agent, in particular chosen from magnesium aluminum silicate, hectorite, bentonite, xanthan gum, chondrus crispus and mixtures thereof.
• a suspending agent in particular chosen from magnesium aluminum silicate, hectorite, bentonite, xanthan gum, chondrus crispus and mixtures thereof.
• homogeneous is understood to mean a composition in which the various constituents and in particular the pigments are distributed to give a uniform or substantially uniform appearance to the naked eye.
• the composition obtained according to the process of the invention does not exhibit surface color irregularities, such as mottling.
• the subject of the invention is a process for manufacturing a composition based on powders, which process comprises: (i) mixing a liquid phase comprising at least water and the phase solid in powder form comprising fillers and treated pigments as defined in the invention, to form a paste; and (ii) shaping of the paste, in particular in a silicone mould, by compacting and total or partial elimination of the liquid phase present in the paste, in particular by vacuum suction, optionally followed by freezing, and optionally drying at a temperature below 70°C. It is implicit that at the time of the elimination of the water, part of the oily phase (volatile or non-volatile) can also be eliminated.
• total or partial elimination it is meant that the compact powder obtained may comprise a residual water content in the final product.
• the total or partial elimination is carried out, according to a particular mode, by suction under vacuum at ambient temperature and with a suction pressure between 1 and 4 bars, a compression pressure between 1 and 4 bars.
• the paste ('slurry') comprises the various constituents, preferably in the following proportions: - from 15% to 80% by weight of particulate solid phase relative to the total weight of the paste; - 10 to 70% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the dough; and - 0.1 to 30% by weight of oils and/or structuring agents relative to the total weight of the paste.
• the water preferably represents from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 15 to 60% by weight of the paste.
• the dough can be placed in molds in order to undergo shaping according to a technique known to those skilled in the art.
• the molds can be made of metal or silicone and can be reused once the composition has been removed from the mold.
• the molds can also be cups or buckets which remain attached to the composition once manufactured in order to then be placed in the housing of a packaging.
• the paste When the paste is liquid, it can be injected either through the bottom, the side or the top of the mold or be poured by simply filling the mold through its upper opening.
• An injection process by the bottom of the molds is for example known under the name “Back Injection Machine” or BIM.
• a method of injection from the side is for example known by the name “Side Injection”.
• a method of filling molds that involves pouring batter into the mold from above is known as " Top Fill.
• the dough can also be more viscous so that it can be dosed by preparing pieces of dough.
• the percentage of volatile or non-volatile liquid (water and optional solvents and additional volatile or non-volatile binders) is preferably chosen such that the dough has a sufficient consistency to be able to be kneaded, measured out and cut. In this case, it is necessary to shape the paste so that the composition hugs the edges of the cups, before removing the volatile liquid. This shaping can be carried out by pressing at the same time as the elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid.
• the preparation process of the invention comprises a step of total or partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid, the objective of which is to substantially eliminate the volatile or non-volatile liquid in order to solidify the composition.
• the total or partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid can be carried out with mechanical means such as suction, or thermal means such as heat.
• the total or partial elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid is done by suction under vacuum, at room temperature and with a suction pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars, a compression pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars (terminals included).
• a suction pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars
• a compression pressure preferably between 1 and 4 bars (terminals included).
• the paste may comprise a higher or lower proportion of volatile or non-volatile liquid depending on the duration and the means of elimination used.
• the water thus preferably represents from 10% to 70% by weight by weight of the paste, and from 0% to 35% by weight of the final solid composition according to the invention.
• the pressing (compacting) is carried out in particular by means of an imprint which comes into contact with the paste and which compresses the composition between the bottom of the mold and its surface during suction.
• the end of the cavity or the bottom of the mold is perforated to allow the extraction of volatile or non-volatile liquid out of the dough during suction.
• a porous material can be deposited on the free surface of the paste in each mold, or be placed on the impression which serves as a press in order to retain the powder in the mold during suction.
• This porous material is for example a fabric, a weft or an absorbent sheet. It is removed from the composition once the aspiration is complete.
• the elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid can also comprise the combination of the means described above.
• the elimination of the volatile or non-volatile liquid contained in the paste comprises mechanical elimination followed by thermal elimination.
• the method may for example comprise two successive steps: the partial drying of the paste using mechanical removal means to obtain a wet powder, and the drying of the wet powder by thermal means.
• the compositions of the invention are prepared by a process which comprises: - the preparation of the paste, - the introduction of the paste into a mould, for example by means of a pump and an injection unit which advantageously comprises nozzles allowing the paste to be injected from below or above the moulds, - the deposition of a porous material on the free surface of the paste and/or the deposition of a plastic grid on the surface before depositing the porous material, - vacuuming the filled molds and total or partial removal by suction of the volatile or non-volatile liquid present in the paste, preferably and keeping the paste under press during the suction, and - the return to atmospheric pressure.
• the present invention is particularly suitable for the preparation of cosmetic compositions intended for caring for or making up the body and/or the face.
• the process of the invention makes it possible to prepare a compact powder of homogeneous appearance, in which the various components and in particular the pigments are well dispersed.
• Bucket process According to a first embodiment, referred to as ' 1st generation' (1G process), the paste is compacted from above in a bucket. During compaction, compression and suction take place simultaneously using tools with a perforated head and a compaction pattern. The compaction fabric is in contact with the pattern. The rest of the solvent is evaporated off in an oven for several hours.
• the compression is carried out in two stages: the first compaction makes it possible to partially suck up the solvent the second compaction makes it possible to give the final shape with patterns on the surface.
• Process in silicone mold According to a second embodiment, called 2 nd generation (2G process), the compact powder obtained no longer needs a cup and has a three-dimensional pattern, more precise than with the previous mode.
• the visuals and reliefs (3D effect, precision, gestures) are unprecedented.
• the 2G process makes it possible to achieve surface volumes greater than 5mm, much larger than with conventional compaction, as well as a beautiful surface appearance, good pattern definition and gloss.
• the surface appearance of the 2G process is much more precise and brighter than the 1G process due to the absence of intermediate compacting during the creation of the relief (pattern present in the silicone mould).
• This 2G process also makes it possible to incorporate a high level of binder compared to a powder formula produced by dry compaction, and to incorporate a high percentage of water in a compact powder, for example more than 20% by weight. of the composition, to increase the feeling of freshness and hydration on application.
• Preparation of the paste The paste is made by pasting the powders with the binder and the solvent. The mixing of the phases is carried out using a Rayneri and a blade of the deflocculating type.
• the water, the suspending agents e.g.
• a compacting cloth is added then the compaction is carried out from the top of the mold and the solvent is sucked up using a perforated smooth surface tool.
• Compaction is carried out, for example, using a top fill, back fill, side injection machine.
• the fabric is no longer in contact with the pattern, so the pattern created on the surface is more precise and more in relief compared to the process with a godet.
• the dough is placed in the freezer in their silicone molds for between 15 minutes and 2 hours to facilitate demolding and to optimize the definition of the design during demolding. Then, they are optionally placed in an oven at 45° C. or 50° C.
• compositions of the invention are prepared according to the following process, illustrated in the examples below, according to the following stages: (i) mixing of a liquid phase comprising at least water and solid phase in powder form, to form a paste ('slurry'): a.
• aqueous phase A the ingredients of aqueous phase A are dissolved in an excess amount of water such that phase A is approximately equivalent in weight to particulate solid phase B; b. the ingredients of phase B are mixed then dispersed in phase A using a Rayneri; for example at 1000 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes until a homogeneous mixture is obtained; vs. the optional binding phase C is added last to the pasty dispersion formed by phases A and B.
• the slurry is homogenized, for example at 1000 revolutions/minute for 15 minutes; (ii) shaping of the paste by compacting and total or partial removal of the liquid phase to obtain the composition in the form of a compact powder, according to the following steps: a.
• the paste is incorporated into moulds, for example silicone moulds, taking care to eliminate any air bubbles; advantageously a surface support grid is added to improve the solidity of the compact; b. a compacting cloth is added then compacting is carried out, for example, from above the mold (Top Fill machine) and the solvent (water) is simultaneously sucked up by creating a vacuum in the enclosure (vacuum suction at temperature ambient) with a compression pressure of 1 to 4 bar and a suction pressure of 1 to 4 bar); the canvas no longer being in contact with the pattern at this stage, the pattern created on the surface is more precise and more in relief compared to the 1G process; vs. the molds are then advantageously placed in the freezer for 30 minutes to 1 hour to allow easy unmolding; d.
• a vacuum suction at temperature ambient with a compression pressure of 1 to 4 bar and a suction pressure of 1 to 4 bar
• the canvas no longer being in contact with the pattern at this stage, the pattern created on the surface is more precise and more in relief compared to the
• the composition of the invention is in the form of a care powder or a make-up powder for the face or the lips, in particular a blush or a blusher, an eye shadow, a highlighter, sun powder, protective face powder, concealer, lip powder or eyebrow powder, preferably a face powder, highlighter, blush or blush with eyelids.
• the composition of the invention may have three-dimensional (3D) relief patterns on the surface, bringing out a particular pattern such as a logo, an alphanumeric character or string of alphanumeric characters, or a stylized representation of an object such as a flower.
• 3D three-dimensional
• This aspect in relief is visually very attractive, is made possible thanks to the use of silicone molds adapted to the desired shape, the use of which is very suitable for the shaping process used for the solid composition of the compact powder type of the invention. Powders can be applied with a brush, sponge or finger.
• Cosmetic process also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.
• the compact powder in particular obtained by a 'slurry' process as described above, provides the consumer with the comfort and sensoriality sought, with a good make-up result.
• the invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES In the examples which follow, the terms "SGP TREATED PIGMENTS” and “SGP TREATED PIGMENTS” respectively denote pigments which have received a hydrophilic surface treatment with sodium glycerophosphate (SGP) or phytic acid (PHY), giving said pigment an affinity for hydrophilic media such as an aqueous phase.
• SGP sodium glycerophosphate
• PHY phytic acid
• Pigments tested Untreated pigments (control) Sympholight pigments (comparative) Sympholight RW (CI 77491 and silica) Sympholight BW (CI 77499 and silica) Sympholight YW10 (iron hydroxide and silica) Sympholight WW (titanium dioxide or CI 77891 and silica) SENSIENT SGP pigments (invention) Unipure red LC381 SGP (iron oxides, CI77491 and CI 77499 and sodium glycerophosphate) Unipure black LC989 SGP (iron oxides, CI 77499 and alumina and magnesium oxide and sodium glycerophosphate ) Unipure yellow LC182 SGP (iron oxides, CI 77492 and sodium glycerophosphate) Unipure white LC 981 SGP (titanium dioxide, CI 77891 and sodium glycerophosphate) PHY pigments from SENSIENT (invention)
• the initial quantity of water must therefore be calculated to obtain the intermediate water percentage indicated at the end of the slurry preparation stage, formed by mixing phases A and B, and optionally phase C.
• the elimination of the solvent is controlled so as to obtain the final percentage of water indicated in the tables below.
• iron oxides IRON OXIDE
• BLACK treated iron oxides of black
• YELLOW yellow
• RED red
• the indicated percentage of treated pigment(s) represents the total quantity of treated pigment(s) used, obtained for example by adding the percentages of each color used in the mixture.
• Example 1 Selection of pigments treated with an additive of formula (I): sodium glycerophosphate (otherwise called 'SGP pigments') and phytic acid (otherwise called 'PHY pigments') The Applicant tested several hydrophilic treated pigments and showed that the pigments SGP, PHY pigments, in particular iron oxides treated with sodium glycerophosphates or phytic acid, such as those marketed by SENSIENT under the name Unipure SGP or PHY, made it possible to respond to the problem of texture inhomogeneity make-up powders produced by a water slurry process. [Table 1]
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase PROCEDURE
• the ingredients of phase A are dissolved in an excess quantity of water such that phase A is approximately equivalent in weight to the particulate solid phase B.
• the ingredients of phase B are mixed then dispersed in phase A at the aid of a Rayneri; at 1000 rpm for 5 to 10 minutes until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
• the binding phase C is added last to the pasty dispersion formed by phases A and B.
• the slurry is homogenized at 1000 revolutions/minute for 15 minutes. Fill the Fill top with the silicone moulds, taking care to eliminate any air bubbles.
• a canvas covering the composition is placed on the surface of the mould.
• a pressure of 1 bar is applied for three seconds to the powder slurry, while sucking up the water by creating a vacuum in the enclosure.
• the molds are then placed in the freezer for 30 minutes to allow easy unmolding. After demoulding, the products are placed in an oven (50° C.) for 5 hours or alternatively at 45° C. overnight. The water is completely removed from the slurry.
• EVALUATION The appearance of the final composition and its application to the skin are evaluated in the laboratory.
• Example 2 Compact Matte Foundation
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water are mixed together, which are cold dispersed with a Rayneri machine at 500 revolutions/minute for 5-10 minutes.
• the mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute to obtain a visually homogeneous mixture.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 132% by weight relative to the sum of all the other ingredients of the composition of the invention.
• the shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A cloth covering the composition is placed on the surface of the mould, then compacted and the solvent of the powder slurry is simultaneously sucked off at 4 bars for 30 seconds. Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour. After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for two hours. After this drying step, the composition is placed in a sealed pack. The application of the composition produces a matte and covering effect associated with a freshness effect linked to the presence of water in the formula.
• Example 3 Moisturizing Foundation The formula of the foundation according to the invention is presented in Table 3 below (% by weight of the final composition). [Table 3]
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase
• the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water, which are cold dispersed in a Rayneri at 500 revolutions/minute for 5-10 minutes.
• the mixture of powders of the phase is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute to obtain a visually homogeneous mixture.
• Phase C is added last to the paste formed by phases A and B. Homogenization is continued until a homogeneous paste is obtained.
• the shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A cloth covering the composition is placed on the surface of the mould, then the solvent of the powder slurry is sucked off at 4 bars for 30 seconds. Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour. After demoulding, the composition is placed in an oven at 45° C. for two hours. After this drying step, the composition is placed in a sealed pack. The application of the composition produces a covering effect associated with a moisturizing effect and a fresh effect linked to the presence of water in the formula.
• Example 4 Pearly Pink Highlighter
• Table 4 The formula of the solid composition according to the invention is presented in Table 4 below (% by weight of the final composition): [Table 4] Phase A: aqueous phase Phase B: particulate phase (powders) Phase C: oily phase To prepare the complexion illuminator presented in the table above, the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water, which are cold dispersed in Rayneri at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes. The mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute. Phase C is added last to the paste formed by phases A and B. Homogenization is continued until a homogeneous paste is obtained.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 74% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture.
• Hardness measurement The hardness is measured according to the following protocol: The hardness is measured using a TA.XT PLUS TEXTURE ANALYSER texturometer (STABLE MICROSYSTEMS), equipped with a rod on which is fixed a cylinder with a diameter of 5mm which is applied to the surface of the compact. The cylinder penetration force is measured over a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 0.5 mm/second. The average hardness of the composition of this example 4, measured on two parts, according to the protocol previously described, is equal to 316 grams force (Gf). The pearly pink highlighter has a moisturizing effect on the skin. EXAMPLE 5 Eyeshadow A brown-colored eyeshadow is prepared.
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase
• the formula of the composition is presented in Table 5 below (% by weight of the final composition): [Table 5] Phase A: aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase
• the mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed cold with a Rayneri machine at 1000 revolutions/minute for 15 minutes.
• Phase C is added, then dispersed again with a Rayneri at 1000 revolutions/minute for 15 minutes until a homogeneous slurry is obtained.
• water is present in the slurry, in an amount of 50% by weight relative to the sum of all the other ingredients in the mixture.
• EXAMPLE 6 Pearly Tanning Powder A solid compact powder having a pearly effect on the skin is prepared.
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase cold with Rayneri at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.
• the mixture of powders of the phase is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.
• Phase C is added last, continuing the homogenization.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 83% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture.
• the shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid.
• the mold is placed in the freezer for 1 hour.
• demoulding the composition is placed in a sealed pack.
• the application of the composition produces a pearly effect coupled with a freshness effect linked to the presence of water in the formula.
• EXAMPLE 7 Eyeshadow for skincare An eyeshadow suitable for skincare is prepared.
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase
• the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water are mixed together, which are cold dispersed with a Rayneri machine at 500 revolutions/minute for 5-10 minutes.
• the mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.
• Phase C is added last, continuing the homogenization.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 100% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture.
• the composition of this example is useful for caring for the skin of the eyelids and provides a cooling effect linked to the presence of water in the formula.
• Example 8 Pearly Pink Highlighter A complexion highlighter having a pearly effect on the skin is prepared. The formula of the composition is presented in Table 8 below (% by weight of the final composition): [Table 8]
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase
• the ingredients of Phase A including an excess of water are mixed, which are dispersed cold in Rayneri at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.
• the powder mixture of phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.
• the oily phase C is added last, continuing the homogenization.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 74% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture.
• the shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid.
• the mold is placed in the freezer for 1 time. After demoulding, the composition is placed in a sealed pack.
• the illuminator of this example is applied to the skin of the face to produce a skin complexion radiance effect coupled with a freshness effect linked to the presence of water in the formula. It also has improved staying power linked to the presence of pullulan, a hydrophilic polymer that improves the formation of a resistant film on the skin.
• EXAMPLE 9 Matte Tanning Powder A solid compact powder having a matte effect on the skin is prepared.
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase
• the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water are mixed cold with Rayneri at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.
• the mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.
• Phase C is added last, continuing the homogenization.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 107% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture.
• the shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid. A cloth covering the composition is placed on the surface of the mould, then a stage of compression and suction of the solvent is carried out for 20 seconds. Place the mold in the freezer for 1 hour. After demoulding, the composition is placed in a sealed pack.
• the highlighter in the example is applied to the skin of the face and produces a matte effect.
• a skin hydration effect (+11%, 6 hours after removal of the film), which is particularly advantageous for skin care, was measured. The hydration is measured by corneometry, using a CORNEOMETER CM825 apparatus supplied by the company Courage & Khazaka SN “NUM_SERIE”, which the person skilled in the art is familiar with.
• the method for measuring the hydration of the stratum corneum is based on the creation of an electric field on the surface of the skin and the detection, using electrodes, of variations in the dielectric constant induced by the state of hydration of the upper layer of the epidermis (cf Measurement of the electrical properties is recognized as an objective method of assessing stratum corneum hydration (E. Berardesca – EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods – Skin Research and Technology 1997 3: 126-132).
• the control formula or the composition of the invention is applied to the forearm of a volunteer. The amount applied corresponds to 2 ⁇ l/cm 2 of skin.
• the application area is then protected from rubbing by placing a metal ring surrounding the application area, secured to the forearm by adhesive.
• a measurement is taken on the application area, before application of the composition, then 6 hours after said application of the c omposition, allowing a 15 minute period of stabilization after removal of the friction guard, before measurement.
• the residual film of the control formula or of the composition of the invention is wiped off from the area of application.
• the variation in hydration is calculated from the measurements carried out according to the method described above.
• Example 10 Pearly Foundation A solid foundation exhibiting a pearly effect on the skin is prepared.
• the formula of the composition is presented in Table 10 below (% by weight of the final composition): [Table 10]
• the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water are mixed together and dispersed cold with a Rayneri machine at 500 revolutions/minute for 5-10 minutes.
• the mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.
• Phase C is added last while continuing to homogenize the paste.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 83% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture.
• the shaping is carried out by filling with Top Fill silicone molds equipped with a support grid.
• the mold is placed in the freezer for 1 hour. After demoulding, the composition is placed in a sealed pack.
• the application of the composition to the face produces a pearly effect coupled with a freshness effect linked to the presence of water in the formula.
• EXAMPLE 11 Matte Pink Highlighter A complexion highlighter having a matte finish on the skin is prepared.
• Phase A aqueous phase
• Phase B particulate phase (powders)
• Phase C oily phase
• the ingredients of Phase A comprising an excess of water, which are cold dispersed in Rayneri at 500 rpm for 5-10 minutes.
• the mixture of powders from phase B is then added to phase A, then the whole is dispersed with a Rayneri machine, gradually increasing the speed to a maximum of 1200 revolutions/minute.
• Phase C is added last, continuing the homogenization.
• the water is present in excess in the slurry, in an amount of 88% by weight compared to the sum of all the other ingredients of the mixture.
• the highlighter in the example is applied to the skin of the face for a rosy matte finish coupled with a freshness effect linked to the presence of water in the formula. The dullness is linked to the use of Mica H in the powder mixture.

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  • 2021-09-21 WO PCT/FR2021/051614 patent/WO2022058697A1/fr active Application Filing
  • 2021-09-21 JP JP2023518215A patent/JP2023542351A/ja active Pending
  • 2021-09-21 KR KR1020237012512A patent/KR20230070469A/ko unknown

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