Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8135—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by an acyloxy radical of a saturated carboxylic acid, of carbonic acid or of a haloformic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinyl esters (polyvinylacetate)
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
  • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.
• Hair treatment agents that serve to temporarily shape the hair therefore play an important role.
• Corresponding agents for temporary shaping usually contain synthetic polymers and/or waxes as setting agents.
• Means to support the temporary reshaping of hair can be made up, for example, as a hairspray, hair wax, hair gel, hair mousse.
• An important property of an agent for the temporary shaping of hair also referred to below as a styling agent, consists in giving the treated fibers in the newly modeled shape—that is, a shape imprinted on the hair—a hold that is as permanent as possible.
• a styling agent consists in giving the treated fibers in the newly modeled shape—that is, a shape imprinted on the hair—a hold that is as permanent as possible.
• the hold of the hairstyle is essentially determined by the type and amount of the setting active ingredient used, although the other components of the styling agent can also have an influence.
• styling agents In addition to a long-lasting hold, styling agents have to meet a whole range of other requirements. These can be roughly divided into properties on the hair, properties of the respective formulation, for example properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and properties relating to the handling of the styling agent, with the properties on the hair being of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tack and a balanced conditioning effect. Furthermore, a styling agent should be universally usable for all hair types and mild to hair and skin.
• the polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers.
• the synthetic polymers usually used in cosmetic agents for temporary shaping are produced from corresponding synthetically accessible monomers.
• Said monomers are obtained from fossil substances such as petroleum, for example, by converting them to the corresponding polymer building blocks, with the expenditure of energy, among other things. Since already the Monomers are produced synthetically, the polymers usually used are fully synthetic polymers. In the context of a more sustainable use of raw materials and energy, it remains desirable to use only those cosmetic raw materials for cosmetic products that are accessible using as little energy as possible from renewable raw materials. However, a reduction in quantity or even an exchange of said fully synthetic polymers can only be carried out if the substitute polymers produce the properties desired for the intended application and give the keratin-containing fibers sufficient, stable support in the imprinted form.
• One object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic agents for the temporary shaping of keratinic fibers in which the use of fully synthetic polymers is significantly reduced or in which the use of fully synthetic polymers is dispensed with and the hairstyles give a long-lasting degree of hold.
• the two starch derivatives are also based on a natural, renewable raw material.
• the present invention relates in particular to cosmetic styling agents such as hair gels, hair waxes, pastes, lotions, emulsions or clays.
• the "Clay” product form refers to highly viscous, waxy cosmetic products that contain, among other things, clay compounds (e.g. kaolin).
• keratinic fibers includes fur, wool and feathers, but in particular human hair.
• the cosmetic agent contains at least one amphoteric starch derivative as the first ingredient essential to the invention.
• Amphoteric starch derivatives contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
• Anionic and cationic groups can be attached to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different sites. Preferably they are attached to the same reactive site of the starch molecule.
• Anionic groups can be of the carboxylic acid type, phosphate type or sulfate type and are preferably of the carboxylic acid type.
• the cationic groups can be of the primary amine, secondary amine, tertiary amine or quaternary amine type.
• amphoteric starch derivatives of the formulas (I) or (II) are particularly preferably used.
• amphoteric starch derivatives modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid are used.
• a potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid and treated with NaOH is used as the amphoteric starch derivative has been neutralized.
• Such a modified potato starch is available, for example, under the name Structure® Solanace from Nouryon.
• the cosmetic agent preferably contains the amphoteric starch derivative in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.4 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the cosmetic product.
• the cosmetic agent contains at least one starch phosphate as the second ingredient essential to the invention.
• starch phosphate is selected from distarch phosphates of formula (II).
• the starch molecules used can come from a vegetable source such as grains, tubers, roots, legumes and fruits.
• the starch is derived from a vegetable source including corn, pea, potato, yam, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, tapioca and sorghum.
• the starch is derived from corn.
• the at least one starch phosphate can have further modifications, in particular etherifications and/or esterifications.
• a particularly preferred modified starch phosphate is a hydroxypropyl substituted starch phosphate, especially hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate.
• the starch phosphate comprises a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate made from corn starch.
• the starch phosphate comprises a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate prepared from waxy corn starch.
• Suitable distarch phosphates include, for example, the commercial products Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) from Avebe or Structure Zea (gelatinized hydroxypropyl -corn distarch phosphate) or Structure XL (hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate) from Nouryon or AGENAJEL 20.313 (hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate) from AGRANA Starch.
• the cosmetic agent preferably contains the starch phosphate in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 8% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.4 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
• the cosmetic agent can be formulated with other, in particular film-forming, polymers.
• the cosmetic agent can also contain, for example, acrylate (co)polymers, polyurethane polymers or homo- and copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone, such as PVP or PVP/VA.
• the other film-forming polymers preferably include polyvinylpyrrolidone (INCI designation: PVP) or vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers (INCI designation VP/VA copolymer).
• PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
• VP/VA copolymer vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers
• the proportion by weight of these other polymers is preferably limited to amounts between 1 and 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
• Preferred cosmetic agents are therefore characterized in that they also contain 1 to 15% by weight of polyvinylpyrrolidone and/or a vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer, preferably polyvinylpyrrolidone, based on their total weight.
• Particularly preferred cosmetic agents have a proportion by weight of the polyvinylpyrrolidone and/or vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer of 2 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
• the cosmetic agent can contain a natural or synthetic wax which has a melting point of over 37° C. as a further component.
• the cosmetic can do that Wax in a total amount of 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 2 to 25% by weight and more preferably 2.5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent
• the cosmetic agent preferably contains an emulsifier.
• Anionic, cationic, nonionic and ampholytic surface-active compounds suitable for use on the human body are suitable as emulsifiers.
• the ampholytic surfactants include zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. Nonionic emulsifiers are preferred.
• Addition products of ethylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols, with fatty acids, with fatty acid alkanolamides, with fatty acid monoglycerides, with sorbitan fatty acid monoesters, with fatty acid glycerides, with methylglucoside monofatty acid esters, with polydimethylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof can be used as nonionic emulsifiers.
• nonionic surfactants include the adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil or hydrogenated castor oil.
• ethylene oxide adducts of hydrogenated castor oil z. B. are available under the name PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil, e.g. PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-33 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.
• PEG Hydrogenated Castor Oil e.g. PEG-30 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-33 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-36 Hydrogenated Castor Oil or PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is preferred.
• the cosmetic agent can contain the emulsifier in a total amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.25 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent included.
• auxiliaries and additives that can be contained in the cosmetic agent include, in particular, care components such as oils, protein hydrolyzates, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors.
• the cosmetic agent can also contain pH adjusters.
• pH adjusters used in cosmetics are primary amino alcohols such as aminomethyl propanol (INCI), which is commercially available under the name AMP-ULTRA ® PC, for example AMP-ULTRA ® PC 2000.
• the agents can also contain cosmetically acceptable preservatives.
• An example of a preferred preservative that can be used is 2-phenoxyethanol.
• the cosmetic agent of the present invention can be made up in the forms customary for the temporary reshaping of hair, for example as a wax, paste, lotion, emulsion or clay.
• the cosmetic agents are preferably offered in cans or jars.
• the cosmetic agent is preferably a hair gel.
• hair gel includes a hair-style fixative in gel form based on water or water/alcohol, which is used to shape the hairstyle (styling).
• Preferred cosmetic agents based on water or water/alcohol contain, based on their total weight, at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight and in particular at least 70% by weight of water.
• Preferred water/alcohol-based cosmetic agents also contain, based on their total weight, at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 7.5% by weight ethanol.
• the cosmetic agent can be provided in the form of a mousse, foam or spray without the addition of a propellant, for example by means of a mechanical pump, foam or spray device, or with the use of a propellant (e.g. aerosol spray).
• a propellant e.g. aerosol spray
• Corresponding cosmetic agents then also comprise at least one propellant.
• the present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic agents according to the invention for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, the use of the cosmetic agents according to the invention for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers to give a hairstyle long-lasting hold and a method for temporary shaping of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic agent is applied to keratinic fibers.
• hair gels were produced: component/raw material INCI designation V1 v2 V3 E1 E2 Structure® Solanace Potato Starch Modified 0.5 -- -- 0.5 0.5 Structure® XL Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate -- 0.5 -- 0.5 -- Agenaiel 20.313 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate -- -- 0.5 -- 0.5 Water 91.5 91.5 91.5 91 91 ethanol 8th 8th 8th 8th 8th In total 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100
• the amounts given in the table are given in % by weight of the particular raw material, based on the total cosmetic agent.
• the agents were checked with regard to their shaping properties by means of a long-lasting hold measurement.
• standardized strands of hair from Kerling (Art. No. 826500) of the hair type “European Natural, color 6/0) with a length (L max ) of 220 mm and a weight of 3.0 g were used
• the tresses were washed with a 12.5% by weight sodium laureth sulphate solution
• the hair tresses were dried overnight in a drying oven at 45°C.
• the hair was soaked in lukewarm water for 20 minutes and then dabbed to about 50% residual moisture in the hair,
• composition to be tested 750 mg was applied to each strand of hair and massaged in.
• the strands of hair were placed in a Teflon splint, straightened using a steel roller and dried overnight at 21° C. and 80% atmospheric humidity.
• the strands of hair were then clamped at one end in a holding device and stored for a period of six hours at 21° C. and 85% relative humidity.
• LSH Long Lasting Hold
• the strand length protruding from the holding device was measured before (L 0 ) and after (L t ) storage.
• the long lasting hold is a measure of the change in length over time of a strand of hair fixed by means of a hair shaping agent.
• the cosmetic agents E1 and E2 according to the invention accordingly showed a significantly over-additive, synergistic effect in relation to moisture resistance.
• hair gels E3 and E4 were also produced: component/raw material INCI designation E3 E4 Structure® Solanace Potato Starch Modified 0.5 0.5 Structure® XL Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 0.5 -- Agenaiel 20.313 Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate -- 0.5 Luviskol ® VA 64 P VP/VA copolymer 5 5 Perfume 0.25 0.25 Water 85.75 85.75 ethanol 8th 8th In total 100 100

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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• Epidemiology (AREA)
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• Cosmetics (AREA)

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• 2021
  • 2021-11-09 DE DE102021212561.1A patent/DE102021212561A1/de active Pending
• 2022
  • 2022-10-05 EP EP22199767.9A patent/EP4176865A3/fr active Pending

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