EP4171487A1 - Composition cosmétique pour pénétration améliorée - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour pénétration améliorée

Info

Publication number
EP4171487A1
EP4171487A1 EP21742656.8A EP21742656A EP4171487A1 EP 4171487 A1 EP4171487 A1 EP 4171487A1 EP 21742656 A EP21742656 A EP 21742656A EP 4171487 A1 EP4171487 A1 EP 4171487A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
oil
cosmetic composition
hydroxypropane
acid
propan
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21742656.8A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jonathan James FAIG
David Chan
Susan Halpern
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US16/916,569 external-priority patent/US11534381B2/en
Priority claimed from FR2009056A external-priority patent/FR3113836B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4171487A1 publication Critical patent/EP4171487A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the instant disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions providing improved penetration, and particularly to cosmetic compositions providing improved penetration without the use of common penetration enhancers. Additionally, aspects of the disclosure relate to methods for treating damaged skin with cosmetic compositions.
  • Skin acts as a natural barrier between internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms, and ultraviolet damage.
  • the health and appearance of skin can deteriorate due to environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition, and sun exposure.
  • UV radiation ultraviolet
  • environmental pollution wind, heat, infrared radiation
  • low humidity low humidity
  • harsh surfactants abrasives
  • Typical skin damage includes fine lines, wrinkling, hyperpigmentation, sallowness, sagging, dark under-eye circles, puffy eyes, enlarged pores, visible dead skin, i.e., flaking, scaling, dryness, and roughness. Consumers desire to slow the gaining of skin damage and reduce the effects of aging, especially in the face and around the eyes. Radiant and clear skin appears youthful and is a sign of good health and vitality. Accordingly, there is an ongoing need for new and improved formulations that improve the health and visual appearance of skin.
  • the instant disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions providing improved penetration of desired skin active agents into adult human skin.
  • the inventors discovered that certain amounts and combinations of ingredients enable cosmetic compositions to provide improved penetration of desired skin active agents without the use of common penetration enhancers.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to an aspect of the disclosure typically include:
  • Suitable C-glycosides that may incorporated in the cosmetic composition include those chosen from C-p-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one, C-a-D- xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-a- D- xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 1 -(C-a- D-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 1 -(C-a-L- fucopyranoside)propan-2-one, 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1 -(C-a- D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxypropane, 1-(C-p-L
  • the C-glycoside comprises at least one of C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane and C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. In at least one instance, the C-glycoside is C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
  • the cosmetic compositions may further include about 1 to about 30 wt.% of a polyol.
  • Suitable polyols may include those chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycols, and a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition includes about 0.1 to about 10 wt.% of mattifying agent.
  • the mattifying agent may be aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may include about 0.5 to about 10 wt.% of an oil.
  • the oil may be a silicone and/or may be chosen from coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, pennycress oil, castor oil, wheatgerm oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazel nut oil, grapeseed oil, colza oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and a mixture thereof
  • the cosmetic composition may include about 0.05 to about 5 wt.% of a thickening agent that is not sodium polyacrylate.
  • the thickening agent that is not sodium polyacrylate is chosen from ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylates copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.
  • a skin active agent in an amount of about 0.05 to about 5 wt.% may be included in the cosmetic composition.
  • skin active agents include hyaluronic acid, lanolin, niacinamide citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, a retinoid, retinal, retinol, adenosine, sodium hyaluronate, retinoic acid, a carotenoid, panthenol, an amino acid, a protein, an enzyme, a coenzyme, or a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition includes about 0.1 to about 20 wt.% of a fatty ester that is not polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.
  • the fatty ester that is not polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate may comprise isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, or a mixture thereof.
  • the present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions providing improved penetration of desired skin active agents into adult human skin.
  • desired skin active agents include cosmetic compositions, cosmetic compositions, and/or cosmetic compositions, and/or cosmetic compositions.
  • certain amounts and combinations of ingredients enable cosmetic compositions to provide improved penetration of desired skin active agents without the use of common penetration enhancers.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to an aspect of the disclosure typically include:
  • the cosmetic composition achieves the improved penetration of skin active agents into adult human skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions may achieve penetration of the skin active agent into the epidermis and dermis of skin.
  • the cosmetic composition may obtain about 2 pg/cm 2 or more, 2.1 pg/cm 2 or more, 2.2 pg/cm 2 or more, 2.3 pg/cm 2 or more, 2.4 pg/cm 2 or more,
  • the cosmetic compositions obtain the improved penetration of skin active agents without the use of penetration enhancers.
  • Typical penetration enhancers include sulphoxides (such as dimethylsulphoxide, DMSO), azones (e.g., laurocapram), pyrrolidones, (for example 2-pyrrolidone, 2P), alcohols and alkanols (ethanol, or decanol), surfactants (also common in dosage forms) and terpenes.
  • sulphoxides such as dimethylsulphoxide, DMSO
  • azones e.g., laurocapram
  • pyrrolidones for example 2-pyrrolidone, 2P
  • alcohols and alkanols ethanol, or decanol
  • surfactants also common in dosage forms
  • Some penetration enhancers are capable of inserting between the hydrophobic tails of the bilayer, thus disturbing their packing, increasing their fluidity and, subsequently, leading to easier diffusion of lipid-like penetrants.
  • the inventors surprisingly discovered that certain cosmetic compositions according to the disclosure provided improved penetration of skin active agents into adult human skin without necessitating the use of certain penetration enhancers. Nevertheless, in some cases, it may be desirable to include penetration enhancers, such as those discussed herein.
  • the cosmetic composition has 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, or 1 wt.% or less of any one of the foregoing penetration enhancers. In at least one instance, the cosmetic composition is free of or essentially free of any one of the foregoing penetration enhances. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may have about 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, or 1 wt.% or less of a total amount of penetration enhancers. For instance, the cosmetic composition may be free of or essentially free of penetration enhancers.
  • the cosmetic composition are generally formulated as an emulsion.
  • the cosmetic compositions are formulated to be oil-in-water emulsions, with the fatty phase emulsified in the hydrophilic phase.
  • the cosmetic compositions may be formulated to have a hydrophilic phase (e.g., alcohols, glycols, polyols, etc.) emulsified in the fatty phase.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated, in some cases, to be lotions, serums, creams, sprays or any other suitable form of product.
  • the instant disclosure relates to methods of treating the skin comprising application of the cosmetic composition of the instant disclosure to the skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions are additionally useful in methods for treating and/or repairing skin damage due to photoaging, and diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture. The aforementioned methods may be non-therapeutic.
  • Suitable components may be included or excluded from the formulations for the cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions, and/or the use of the formulation (e.g., a lotion, a serum, a gel, a cream, a spray, etc.).
  • the cosmetic composition typically includes C-glycoside in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of C-glycoside present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 9 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%; about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 9 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 7 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%; about 2 to about 10 wt.%, about 2 to about 9 wt.%, about 2 to about 8 wt.%, about 2 to
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more C-glycoside(s) having a structure in accordance with general formula (I): in which: R represents a saturated Ci to C10, in particular Ci to C4, alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, with R"2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical,
  • S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group(s), and
  • - X represents a radical chosen from the -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH 2 0H)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH 3 )- groups and in particular a - CO-, -CH(OH)- or-CH(NH2)- radical and more particularly a -CH(OH)- radical, wherein the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be a or b, and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their optical and geometrical isomers.
  • the C-glycosides of formula (I) preferably have a structure, wherein R denotes a saturated linear Ci to C6, in particular Ci to C4, preferentially Ci to C2, alkyl radical and more preferably a methyl radical. Mention may, in particular, be made of the following alkyl groups for the C-glycosides (such as R): methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl and cyclohexyl groups.
  • S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, such as in pyranose and/or furanose form and of L and/or D chimeric series.
  • the mono- or polysaccharide exhibits at least one free hydroxyl functional group and/or optionally one or more protected amine functional groups, where X and R otherwise retain all of the definitions given above.
  • a monosaccharide of the invention can be chosen from D- glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L- rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, L-fucose, and a mixture thereof.
  • the monosaccharide is D-xylose.
  • a polysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide combining an uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D- galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose that can advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-p-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose, xylohexaose and a mixture thereof.
  • the oligosaccharide is xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
  • S can represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose, D- maltose, and a mixture thereof.
  • the monosaccharide is D-xylose.
  • the C-glycoside may be a derivative of formula (I) for which:
  • - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical;
  • - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and chosen in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
  • - X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and preferably a -CH(OH)- group.
  • the compounds described herein may be in the form of a salt.
  • Acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present disclosure comprise conventional non-toxic salts of the said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
  • Mention may be made, by way of example, of the salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups.
  • Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
  • neutralization of the acid group(s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, Nh OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine.
  • an inorganic base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, Nh OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine.
  • the compound of formula (I) may be neutralized with triethylamine or butylamine.
  • This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine can comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and can comprise, e.g., one or more alcohol functional groups.
  • Mention may be made of 2- amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2-(dimethylamino)propanol or 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl)-l ,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino)propylamine.
  • Non-limiting examples of solvates which may be used in the cosmetic composition include conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol. Of course, according to the disclsoure, a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to the formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion.
  • a C-glycoside derivative which is suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthetic method described in the document WO 02/051828, which is incorporated herein in its entirety for all purposes.
  • Non-limiting examples of C-glycoside compounds which may be suitable for the cosmetic composition include:
  • the cosmetic composition may, preferably, include a C-glycoside chosen from C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and a mixture thereof.
  • the C-glycoside is C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane.
  • the C-glycoside compound can be C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran- triol) provided in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active material in a water/propylene glycol (60/40% by weight) mixture.
  • the cosmetic composition includes polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate in an amount that may vary, but is typical present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate in the cosmetic composition is about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, about
  • the cosmetic composition includes sodium polyacrylate, typically, in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of sodium polyacrylate present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.3 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.3 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.75 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.75 to about 4
  • the sodium polyacrylates may be present in the composition in a particulate or non-particulate form.
  • their mean size in the hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 10 pm and even more preferentially less than or equal to 5 pm.
  • Their mean size in the non-hydrated state is preferably less than or equal to 2 pm, preferably less than or equal to 1 pm.
  • Non-limiting examples of commercially available sodium polyacrylates include those sold under the names Octacare X100, X110 and RM100 by Avecia, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by SNF; those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1100 by BASF; those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer) by Grain Processing; those sold under the name Aqua Keep 10 SH NF, Aqua Keep 10 SH NFC, sodium acrylate crosspolymer- 2, provided by Sumitomo Seika; and/or those sold under the names Sanfresh ST- 100C, ST100MC and IM-300MC by Sanyo Chemical Industries (INCI name: Sodium Polyacrylate Starch).
  • the cosmetic compositions may include one or more polyol(s).
  • the amount of polyol in the cosmetic composition may range from about 1 to about 30 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may include water-soluble solvents in an amount of about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 18 wt.%, about 1 to about 16 wt.%, about 1 to about 14 wt.%, about 1 to about 12 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%; about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%, about 5 to about 20 wt.%, about 5 to about 18 wt.%, about 5 to about 16 wt.%, about 5 to about 14 wt.%, about 5 to about 12 wt.%, about 10 to about 30 w
  • Polyhydric alcohols are useful.
  • the term "polyol” should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups.
  • the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols.
  • the one or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • the one or more polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyols that may, optionally, be included in the cosmetic composition include and/or may be chosen from alkanediols such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4- diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2- hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether,
  • the one or more polyols may, optionally, be glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e.g., monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e
  • the polyol comprises glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1 ,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1 ,5- pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture thereof.
  • Polyol compounds may also be used.
  • Non-limiting examples include the aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1 , 3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1 ,2- butanediol, 2, 2-diethyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1 , 3-propanediol, 2,4- dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1 ,2-diol, and 2- ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycols, and a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure may include a mattifying agent
  • the amount of mattifying agent in the cosmetic composition may be, e.g., about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.25 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.25 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%,
  • Mattifying agents refer to material that gives the complexion more transparency and a hazy effect and provides skin with a natural and desireable appearance, without conferring on it a greasy, gleaming and shiny appearance. To do this, these materials are often absorbent fillers such as talc, silica, kaolin or fillers having light scattering optical properties, which properties are known under the name "soft focus” effect. In addition to reducing the shine or oiliness, mattifying agents can contribute to the overall texture and thickness of a cosmetic composition. Mattifying agents are often (but not always) particulate material or powders. Cosmetic compositions containing mattifying agents may be characterized by means of the following protocol.
  • the test composition is spread out at a rate of 2 mg/cm 2 on a contrast card (Pruf badge type 24/5-250 cm 2 sold by the company Erichsen) using a mechanical film spreader.
  • the composition is then dried overnight at a temperature of 37°C prior to measurement of its reflection using a gonioreflectometer sold by the company Micromodule.
  • the intensity reflected specularly at 30° (R) and scattered at 90° (D) are successively measured.
  • the result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the diffuse reflection.
  • the value of R is proportionately smaller the greater the mattifying effect afforded by the filler.
  • a value of R of less than or equal to 2 generally indicates a mattifying effect.
  • the mattifying agents according to the instant disclosure include those which, preferably at a content of 5% in a cosmetic composition, give a value of R of less than 1.5 and preferably less than 1.
  • Non-limiting examples of mattifying agents include: silicas, clays, silicate derivatives, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, porous silica microparticles, for instance the Silica Beads SB150 and SB700 from Miyoshi with a mean size of 5 microns; the Sunsphere Series-H products from Asahi Glass, for instance Sunsphere H33, H51 and H53 with respective sizes of 3, 5 and 5 pm, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, for instance PTFE Ceridust 9205F from Clariant, with a mean size of 8 microns, silicone resin powders, for instance the silicone resin Tospearl 145A from GE Silicone, with a mean size of 4.5 microns, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, for instance NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510 from Takemoto Oil and Fat, acrylic copolymer powders, especially of polymethyl(meth)acrylate, for instance the PMMA particles Jurymer MBI from Nihon Junyoki
  • Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101 , KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104 and KSP-105 by the company Shin-Etsu, polyamide (Nylon. RTM.) powders, for instance Nylon 12 particles of the Orgasol type from Atofina, with a mean size of 10 microns, powders of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type, talc, silica/Ti02 or silica/zinc oxide composites, styrene/acrylic copolymer powders, and mixtures thereof.
  • clays of the smectite family such as laponite, of the kaolinite family, such as kaolinite, dickite or nacrite, optionally modified clays of the halloysite, dombassite, antigorite, benthierine or pyrophyllite family, montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, stevensite, hectorites, saponites, chlorites, sepiolite and illite.
  • Clays include products that are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillere, S. Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • Natural clay is a sedimentary rock in large part composed of specific minerals, silicates, generally, of aluminum.
  • Kaolin is a natural clay.
  • the clays may also be synthetic. Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure includes a clay selected from the group consisting of kaolinite, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites, hectorites (including disteardimonium hectorite), and illites.
  • Silica derivatives that may be mentioned include silica powders, for instance the porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 sold by the company Miyoshi, the products SUNSPHERE H51 , SUNSPHERE H33 and SUNSPHERE H53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; the polydimethylsiloxane- coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name SA SUNSPHERE H-33 and SA SUNSPHERE H-53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB150 by the company Miyoshi.
  • silica powders for instance the porous silica microspheres sold under the name SILICA BEADS SB-700 sold by the company Miyoshi, the products SUNSPHERE H51 , SUNSPHERE H33 and SUNSPHERE H53 sold by the company Asahi Glass; the polydimethylsiloxane- coated a
  • the cosmetic compositions include one or more mattifying agents selected from the group consisting of methyl methacrylate/glycol dimethacrylate crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, nylon-12, polyamides, polyethylene, talc, titanium dioxide, silica, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, clays (such as hectorite clays including distearidimonium hectorite), silicas, polymethysilsequioxane, and a mixture thereof.
  • the mattifying agent if present, is aluminum starch octenylsuccinate.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises one or more oils, for example, silicone oils, fluoro oils, hydrocarbon-based oils, etc.
  • the cosmetic composition includes oils that are plant based or vegetable based oils.
  • the amount of oil and/or plant based or vegetable based oils present in the cosmetic composition may be from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%; about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 7 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%; about 2 to about 10 wt
  • the cosmetic composition may exclude synthetic oils.
  • the cosmetic composition may exclude oils other than plant based and vegetable based oils.
  • the amount of synthetic oils and/or oils other than plant based and vegetable based oil may be about 5 wt.% or less, about 4 wt.% or less, about 3 wt.% or less, about 2 wt.% or less, about 1 wt.% or less, or about 0.5 wt.% or less, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition is free of or essentially free of synthetic oils and/or oils other than plant based and vegetable based oil.
  • oil means any fatty substance which is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). Often, at least one of the oils in the cosmetic composition is part of an oily phase.
  • An "oily phase” is a phase comprising at least one oil that may include additional liposoluble and lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances. Oil that is suitable for use herein may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil relates to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or a keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • Volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil relates to an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • silicon oil relates to oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil relates to oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil relates to oil comprising mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. Hydrocarbon-based oil may be animal hydrocarbon-based oil, plant hydrocarbon-based oil, mineral hydrocarbon-based oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon-based oil. Further, suitable oil may be a mineral hydrocarbon-based oil, a plant hydrocarbon-based oil, or a synthetic hydrocarbon- based oil.
  • the cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more silicone oils.
  • silicone oils include dimethicone, cyclomethicone, polysilicone-11 , phenyl trimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, and stearoxytrimethylsilane.
  • the cosmetic composition includes dimethicone, and optionally additional oils, including additional silicone oils.
  • the one or more silicone oils is a non-volatile silicon oil.
  • the silicone oil is polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dim
  • silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity 8 centistokes (8x10 6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more fluoro oils.
  • the one or more fluoro oil may be selected from the group consisting of perfluoromethylcyclopentane, perfluoro-1 ,3-dimethylcyclohexane, dodecafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, bromoperfluorooctyl, nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoroethoxyisobutane and 4- trifluoromethylperfluoromorpholine.
  • Volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, may also be used.
  • the cosmetic compositions described herein may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and/or a synthetic oil.
  • the compositions include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, such as: (i) hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, and mus
  • synthetic esters for instance oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on condition that R+R' is > 10, for instance Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate,
  • higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid
  • carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;
  • fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® from Ajinomoto; and
  • (ix) essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berries oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil, spiken
  • the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular of branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C C8-C16 esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate.
  • C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C C8-C16 esters, and iso
  • the oil is chosen from plant based or vegetable based oils, such as coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard oil, camelina oil, pennycress oil, castor oil, wheatgerm oil, apricot kernel oil, pistachio oil, poppy oil, pine oil, avocado oil, hazel nut oil, grapeseed oil, colza oil, cade oil, peach kernel oil, coffee bean oil, jojoba oil, and a mixture thereof.
  • plant based or vegetable based oils such as coconut oil, soybean oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, palm oil, peanut oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, palm kernel oil, tung oil, jatropha oil, mustard
  • the cosmetic compositions described herein may, optionally, include a thickener other than sodium polyacrylate.
  • the thickening agent other than sodium polyacrylate may be in an amount of about 0.01 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, about 0.01 wt.% to about 1 wt.%; 0.05 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, about 0.05 wt.% to about 1 wt.%; about 0.1 wt.% to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 3 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, about 0.1 wt.
  • the amount of thickening agent may be from 0.1 , 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, or 1.5 wt.% to 2, 3, 4, or 5 wt.%, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • thickening agents are water-soluble, and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the cosmetic composition of the invention is dispersed/dissolved in water.
  • the aqueous solution may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, for forming the gel, if necessary.
  • the thickening agent other than sodium polyacrylate may be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is soluble in water, e.g., ethyl alcohol when it is dispersed/dissolved in water.
  • Thickening agents may be referred to as “thickeners” or “viscosity modifying agents.” Thickening agents are typically included to increase the viscosity of the compositions. Nonetheless, in some instances, certain thickening agents provide additional, surprising benefits to the compositions.
  • Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include polyacrylate crosspolymers (other than sodium polyacrylate) or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers (other than crosslinked sodium polyacrylate), cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers/copolymers, C8-24 hydroxyl substituted aliphatic acid, C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acid, sugar fatty esters, polyglyceryl esters, and a mixture thereof.
  • Suitable thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate may be found in US Patent Application no. 16/731 ,654, which is incorporated herein, in its entirety for all purposes.
  • the thickening agents other than sodium polyacrylate may be chosen from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pechtin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. Additionally, the thickening agents other than sodium polyacrylate may include polymeric thickeners selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, acrylates copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, and acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
  • thickening agents include the following:
  • Carboxylic acid or carboxylate based homopolymer or co-polymer which can be linear or crosslinked:
  • polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and the substituted acrylic acids.
  • Commercially available polymers include those sold under the trade names CARBOPOL, ACRYSOL, POLYGEL, SOKALAN, CARBOPOL ULTREZ, and POLYGEL.
  • Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol. The carbomers are available as the CARBOPOL 900 series from B.F. Goodrich (e.g., CARBOPOL 954).
  • other suitable carboxylic acid polymeric agents include ULTREZ 10 (B.F.
  • These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available as CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, PEMULEN TR-1 , and PEMULEN TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich.
  • carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymeric agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl C5-C10 acrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride, and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
  • Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is aviable in the raw material known as SEPIMAX ZEN from Seppic.
  • Another suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymeric agent includes acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, a cationic acrylates copolymer (or a quaternary ammonium compound), available as a raw material known under the tradename of SIMULQUAT HC 305 from Seppic.
  • the carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include polyquaternium-1 , polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11 , polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21 , polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41 , polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-
  • preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11 , polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11 , polyquaternium-67, or a mixture thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of celluloses include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (for example, carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose sulfate sodium salt).
  • the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).
  • the cosmetic compositions include one or more cellulose thickeners (e.g., microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose).
  • Non-limiting examples include Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), Polyvinylpyrrolidone(PVP)/vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP/VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/eicosene copolymer, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, etc.
  • PVP Polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • PVP/VA copolymer Polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • LUVISKOL K30, K85, K90 available from BASF.
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate include LUVISKOL VA37, VA64 available from BASF; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and vinylimidazole (INCI: VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) is commercially available as LUVISET from BASF. In some instances, PVP and PVP/VA copolymer are preferred. Sucrose esters
  • Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or dipalmitate, sucrose mono- and distearate, sucrose mono-, di- or trioleate, sucrose mono- or dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octooleate, and mixed esters, such as sucrose palmitate/stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 each may independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 is a fatty acid moiety.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and have a length of C1-C40, C1-C30, C1-C25, or Ci-C2o, C1-C16, 01-C1-C10.
  • nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 ca pry I ate/cap rate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include conjugated linoleic acid, cis-parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis-5,8,11 ,14,17-eicosapentanoic acid, cis- 4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexenoic acid, columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11 ,14-eicosadienoic acid, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ricinoleic acid, trans-vaccenic acid, cis-11 ,14,17- eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5-eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11 ,14-eicosatrienoic acid, hexa
  • Non-limiting examples of gums include gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, seneca gum, sclerotium gum, etc.
  • the cosmetic compositions may, optionally, include one or more skin active agents, such as anti-aging agent, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-oxidants, humectants, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents, and/or agents for treating oily skin etc.
  • skin active agents may be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from greater than zero to about to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of skin active agents may be from greater than zero to about 9 wt.%, greater than zero to about 8 wt.%, greater than zero to about 7 wt.%, greater than zero to about 6 wt.%, greater than zero to about 5 wt.%, greater than zero to about 4 wt.%, greater than zero to about 3 wt.%, greater than zero to about 2 wt.%; from about 10 ppm to about 10 wt.% (100,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 5 wt.% (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt.% (25,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 1 wt.% (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.5 wt.% (5,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.3 wt.% (3,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt.% (2,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about
  • humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients include glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, especially Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid as Lipidure-HM of NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a mixture of oils passionflower, apricot, corn, and rice bran sold by Nestle under the name NutraLipids, a C-glycoside derivatives, in particular the C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane in the form of a solution at 30% by weight of active material
  • Depigmenting agents that may be incorporated in the cosmetic composition include those chosen from alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, tranexamic acid and derivatives thereof, gentisic acid, homogentisic, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D pantheteine calcium sulphonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap, a water kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by lchimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be an extract of brown sugar (Sacchar
  • Particular depigmenting agents include alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives, D pantheteine calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a water kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by the company lchimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more anti-wrinkle actives.
  • anti-wrinkle active refers to a natural or synthetic compound producing a biological effect, such as the increased synthesis and/or activity of certain enzymes, when brought into contact with an area of wrinkled skin, this has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines.
  • Exemplary anti-wrinkle actives may be chosen from: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, inhibitors of NO-synthase, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or for stimulating keratinocyte differentiation reducing agents; muscle relaxants and/or dermo-decontracting agents, anti-free radical agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids (such as, retinol palmitate and retinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4- carboxylic acid, the compounds C-glycosides and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and extracts of olive leaves, as well as plant and hydrolysates thereof such as rice protein hydrolysates or soybean proteins; algal extracts and in particular laminaria, bacterial extracts, the sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea
  • the cosmetic composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as in particular the 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; the toyocamycine, 1-methyladenosine, N-6- methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and the 6- chloropurine riboside.
  • adenosine derivatives such as non phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as in particular the 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; the toyocamycine, 1-methyladenosine, N-6- methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and the 6- chloropurine riboside.
  • adenosine receptor agonists such as adenosine phenylisopropyl ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6- cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6- cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2- phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N 6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'- -N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N- ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), the 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudi
  • the cosmetic composition may, optionally, include a skin active agent that addresses oily skin.
  • These agents can be sebo-regulating or antiseborrhoeic agents capable of regulating the activity of sebaceous glands.
  • Exemplary skin active agents for addressing oily skin include: retinoic acid, retinol, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, samphire-the cinnamon extract blends, tea and octanoylglycine such as-15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic-the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed especially by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5-zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate 20, zinc cysteate;-derivatives particularly copper and copper
  • Vitamin C and derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, and the fat soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. Additionally, extracts from plants containing a high amount of vitamin C such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis, and bioflavonoids from rose hip and citrus may be used including watersoluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone may also be used.
  • camu berry Myrciaria dubia
  • acerola emblica officinalis
  • bioflavonoids from rose hip and citrus may be used including watersoluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methyl chalcone may also be used.
  • Sesame Sesamum indicum
  • sesame lignan may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with the sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance vitamin E activity.
  • antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g. d-a-tocopherol, d- -tocopherol, d- y-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g. d-a-tocotrienol, d- -tocotrienol, d- y.-tocotrienol, d-delta-tocotrienol,) and vitamin E (a-tocopherol acetate). These compounds may be isolated from natural sources, prepared by synthetic means, or mixtures thereof.
  • tocopherols e.g. d-a-tocopherol, d- -tocopherol, d- y-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol
  • tocotrienols e.g. d-a-tocotrienol, d- -tocotrienol, d- y.-tocotrienol, d-delta-
  • Tocotrienol-enriched vitamin E preparations may be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove a portion of tocopherols and recover a preparation more highly concentrated in tocotrienol.
  • Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, grain, or palm oil using high performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and/or molecular distillation from barley, brewer's grain or oats.
  • the term "tocotrienols" includes tocotrienol-rich-fractions obtained from these natural products as well as the pure compounds. The increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.
  • carotenoids particularly the xanthophyll type
  • xanthophyll type carotenoids include molecules, such as lutein, canthaxantin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin and astaxanthin.
  • Xanthophylls protect compounds, such as vitamin A, vitamin E, and other carotenoids.
  • the active agent may be an antioxidant selected from the group of flavonoids.
  • the flavonoid is a flavanone (derivative of 2,3-dihydro-2- phenylchromen-4-one).
  • Flavones include: Butin, Eriodictyol, Hesperetin, Hesperidin, Homoeriodictyol, Isosakuranetin, Naringenin, Naringin, Pinocembrin, Poncirin, Sakuranetin, Sakuranin, and Sterubin.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one).
  • Flavanols include: Taxifolin, Aromadedrin, Chrysandroside A, Chrysandroside B, Xeractinol, Astilbin, and Fustin.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavone (derivative of 2-phenylchromen-4-one).
  • Flavones include: Apigenin, Luteolin, Tangeritin, Chrysin, Baicalein, Scutellarein, Wogonin, Synthetic Flavones: Diosmin, and Flavoxate.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavonol (derivative of 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one).
  • Flavonols include: 3- Hydroxyflavone, Azaleatin, Fisetin, Galangin, Gossypetin, Kaempferide, Kaempferol, Isorhamnetin, Morin, Myricetin, Natsudaidain, Pachypodol, Quercetin, Rhamnazin, Rhamnetin, Azalein, Hyperoside, Isoquercitin, Kaempferitrin, Myricitrin, Quercitrin, Robinin, Rutin, Spiraeoside, Xanthorhamnin, Amurensin, lcariin, and Troxerutin.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavan-3-ol (derivatives of 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3- ol).
  • Flavan-3-ols include: Catechin, Epicatechin, Epigallocatechin, Epicatechin gallate, Epigallocatechin gallate, Epiafzelechin, Fisetinidol, Guibourtinidol, Mesquitol, and Robinetinidol.
  • the flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derivative of 2- phenylchroman-4-ol).
  • Flavan-4-ols include: Apiforol and Luteoforol.
  • the flavonoid may be an isoflavone (derivative of 3-phenylchromen-4-one).
  • Isoflavones include: Genistein, Daidzein, Biochanin A, Formononetin, and the Equol metabolite from Daidzein.
  • the antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derivative of 2-phenylchromenylium cation).
  • Anthocyanidins include: Aurantinidin, Cyanidin, Delphinidin, Europinidin, Luteolinidin, Pelargonidin, Malvidin, Peonidin, Petunidin, Rosinidin, and Xanthone.
  • the antioxidant may be a Dihydrochalcone (derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-1- propanone).
  • Dihydrochalcones include: Phloretin, Dihydrochalcone phloretin Phlorizin, Aspalathin, Naringin dihydrochalcone, Neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and Nothofagin.
  • dihydrochalcones may exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, like reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.
  • the antioxidant may be an anthocyanin.
  • Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants.
  • Anthocyanins encompasses a class of flavonoid compounds that are naturally occurring, water-soluble compounds, responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, cereal grains, and flowers.
  • anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. The inhibition of collagenase helps in the prevention and reduction of wrinkles, increase in skin elasticity, etc., which are caused by a reduction in skin collagen.
  • the anthocyanins may be obtained from any portion of various plant sources, such as the fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, bark, or seeds.
  • antioxidants may include one or more betacyanin. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, may be obtained from natural sources and are antioxidants.
  • the antioxidant may be a Phenylpropanoid (derivatives of cinnamic acid).
  • Phenylpropanoids include: Cinnamic acid, Caffeic acid, Ferulic acid, Trans- ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacore 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenome), 5- Hydroxyferulic acid, Sinapic acid, Coumaryl alcohol, Coniferyl alcohol, Sinapyl alcohol, Eugenol, Chavicol, Safrole, P-coumaric acid, and Sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, Phenylpropanoids may neutralize free radicals.
  • the antioxidant may be a Chalcone (derivative of 1 ,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1- one). Chalcones include: Butein, Okanin, Carthamin, Marein, Sophoradin, Xanthohumol, Flavokvain A, Flavokavain B, Flavokavin C, and synthetic Safal
  • the antioxidant may be a Curcuminoid.
  • Curcuminoids include: Curcumin, Desmethoxycurcumin, bis-Desmethoxycurcumin, Tetrahydrocurcumin, and Tetrahydrocurcuminoids.
  • Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids may be derived from rhizomes of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been found to be a more potent antioxidant and more stable compared to curcumin.
  • the antioxidant may be a Tannin. Tannins include: Tannin, Terflavin B, Glucogallin, Dgallic acid, and Quercitannic acid.
  • the antioxidant may be a stilbenoid.
  • Stilbenoids include: Resveratrol, Pterostilbene, and Piceatannol.
  • Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'- trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3', 5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2, 3', 4,5'- tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and alpha and beta glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives thereof.
  • the antioxidant may be a Coumarin (derivatives of 2H-chromen-2-one).
  • Coumarins include: 4-Hydroxycoumarin, Umbelliferone, Aesculetin, Herniarin, Auraptene, and Dicoumarol.
  • the antioxidant may be a Carotenoid.
  • Carotenoids include: beta-Carotene, alpha-Carotene, gamma-Carotene, beta-Cryptoxanthin, Lycopene, Lutein, and Idebenone.
  • Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignan may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with the sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance vitamin E activity.
  • the antioxidant may be: a Xanthone, Butylated Hydroxytoluene, 2,6-Di-tert- butylphenol, 2,4-Dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, Gallic acid, Eugenol, Uric acid, alpha- Lipoic acid, Ellagic acid, Chicoric acid, Chlorogenic acid, Rosmarinic acid, Salicylic acid, Acetylcysteine, S-Allyl cysteine, Barbigerone, Chebulagic acid, Edaravone, Ethoxyquin, Glutathione, Hydroxytyrosol, Idebenone, Melatonin, N-Acetylserotonin, Nordihydroguaiaretic acid, Oleocanthal, Oleuropein, Paradol, Piceatannol, Probucol, Propyl gallate, Protocatechuic acid, Pyritinol, Rutin, Secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, Sesamin, Ses
  • the cosmetic composition may include fatty ester(s) other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate in an amount that may vary, but is typically from about 0.1 to 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%; about 0.5 to 20 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 7 wt.%
  • the fatty ester(s) other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate may be a glycerol fatty ester, sorbitan fatty esters, ethoxylated fatty esters, synthetic esters, or the like. Discussion of fatty ester(s) other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate that may be included in the cosmetic composition are provided below.
  • the glycerol fatty esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters formed from at least one acid comprising a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 10 glycerol units. Use may be made of one or more of these glycerol fatty esters in the emulsion of the instant disclosure.
  • the sorbitan fatty esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids chosen in particular from the group comprising esters of a C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan and oxyethylenated esters of a C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan. They are formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain, having, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and from sorbitol or from ethoxylated sorbitol.
  • the oxyethylenated esters generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.
  • esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.
  • sorbitan fatty ester and of an oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty ester, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate) sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, or sorbitan 20 EO tristearate (CTFA name: polysorbate 65) sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65.
  • CFA name sorbitan monostearate
  • CTFA name sorbitan palmitate
  • sorbitan 20 EO tristearate CFA name: polysorbate 65
  • the ethoxylated fatty esters that can be used as nonionic amphiphilic lipids are esters made up of 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and of at least one fatty acid chain comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty chain of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof.
  • ester of stearic acid comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, and the ester of behenic acid comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.
  • Synthetic esters for instance oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on condition that R+R' is > 10, for instance Purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226 by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-eth
  • the cosmetic composition may include a nonionic emulsifier in addition to the polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate.
  • the amount of nonionic emulsifier other than polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate may be about 0.1 to 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%; about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 18 wt.%, about 1 to about 16 wt.%, about 1 to about 14 wt.%, about 1 to about 12 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%
  • Emulsifiers are, typically, used to incorporate the oil and/or fatty compounds into a hydrophilic medium, such as an aqueous medium, to form oil-in-water emulsions.
  • a hydrophilic phase e.g., aqueous medium
  • the cosmetic compositions includes one or more nonionic emulsifiers. Additional emulsifiers, however, can also be included (or excluded), such as amphoteric, anionic, and/or cationic emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers examples include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic Emulsifiers A more exhaustive but non limiting list of useful nonionic emulsifiers is provided later, under the heading “Nonionic Emulsifiers.”
  • the cosmetic compositions containing natural oils include two or more nonionic emulsifiers.
  • the total amount of these emulsifiers can be such that the final HLB of the hair-treatment composition is within +/- 0.5 of the HLB of the natural oil in the cosmetic composition. This typically results in the final HLB of the emulsified natural oil in the hair-treatment composition ranging from about 6 to about 8.
  • emulsifiers examples include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxye
  • Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include polyglyeryl-based emulsifiers, polyol esters, glycerol ethers, oxyethylenated ethers, oxypropylenated ethers, ethylene glycol polymers, sorbitan esters, polysorbate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more nonionic emulsifier selected from polyglyceryl 10-stearate, polyglyceryl-3-caprate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, or mixtures thereof.
  • pH Adiuster(s) selected from polyglyceryl 10-stearate, polyglyceryl-3-caprate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, or mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition.
  • one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition.
  • suitable acids for decreasing the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases that are suitable for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.
  • the cosmetic composition may, desirably, have a pH of about 4 to about 7, preferably about 4.5 to about 6.5 or about 5.5 to about 6.5. In one instance, the pH of the cosmetic composition is 6 or about 6.
  • the amount of the pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product. For example, the total amount of the pH adjuster may range from about 0.05 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of pH adjuster is from about 0.05 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 4 wt.%, or about 2.0 to about 3 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • total amount of water in the cosmetic composition can vary, but is typically about 50 to about 95 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some instances, total amount of water is about 50 to about 90 wt.%, about 50 to about 85 wt.%, about 50 to about 80 wt.%; about 55 to about 95 wt.%, about 55 to about 90 wt.%, about 55 to about 85 wt.%, about 55 to about 80 wt.%; about 60 to about 95 wt.%, about 60 to about 90 wt.%, about 60 to about 85 wt.%, about 60 to about 80 wt.%; about 65 to about 95 wt.%, about 65 to about 90 wt.%, about 65 to about 85 wt.%, or about 65 to about 80 wt.%; about 70 to about 95 wt.%, about 70 to about 90 wt.%, about 70 to about 85 wt.%, about 70 to about 80 wt.%
  • the instant disclosure also relates to methods or processes for making/manufacturing the cosmetic compositions described herein. It also encompasses the products prepared by these methods or processes.
  • a process for making certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition includes the formation of an oil phase and the formation of a separate aqueous phase (containing water), both phases are heated and combined while warm. Each phase may be heated to the same temperature or may be heated to different temperatures.
  • the thickening agents may be added to the aqueous phase of the cosmetic compositions. In some instances, however, the one or more emulsifiers and/or the thicken agents are added to the oil phase. Additionally or alternatively, thickening agents may be added post-emulsification — for instance, ammonium polyacryloydldimethyl taurate may be added post-emulsification.
  • the composition After combining the oil phase and the aqueous phase to form an emulsion, the composition is typically allowed to cool. Additional components may be added during the time of emulsification or after. For example, certain fragrances, colorings, exfoliants, active ingredients, etc., may be added to the aqueous phase, the fatty phase, or after emulsification.
  • the instant disclosure also relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein.
  • the cosmetic compositions can be used in a method that comprises applying the cosmetic compositions to the skin of humans. In some cases, the composition is applied to the face.
  • the cosmetic composition can be used in methods for treating and/or repairing damage to skin (for example, damage from photoaging), and for diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture of skin. The aforementioned methods are non-therapeutic.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied once per day, twice per day, or more than once or twice per day. In some cases, the composition is applied in the evenings before bed. In other cases, the compositions are applies in the morning.
  • the composition may be applied immediately after washing the skin.
  • the compositions may be used once, or for a series of days, weeks, or months.
  • the compositions may be used daily for a period of 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or more weeks, or months.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure typically include: about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 10 wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 9 wt.%, of C-glycoside, such as those chosen from C-b- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and a mixture thereof; about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, of sodium polyacrylate; and water, preferably about 50 to about 95 wt.% of water, more preferably about 60 to about 95 wt.% of water, where
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 10 wt.%, more preferably about 2 to about 9 wt.%, of C-glycoside, such as those chosen from C-b- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and a mixture thereof; about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, of polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate; about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, preferably about 0.25 to about 5 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, of sodium polyacrylate; water, preferably about 50 to about 95 wt.% of water, more preferably about 60 to about 95 wt.% of water; optionally, about
  • Example 1 Example 2
  • Example Compositions A were evaluated in vitro by applying samples of Example Composition A to Glass Franz diffusion cells. Samples of Example Composition A were applied to applied to 3 porcine skin samples from 3 different donors. The porcine skin samples were full-thickness porcine skin obtained from the flank. Approximately, 5 mg/cm 2 of Example Composition A was applied to a surface area of 2 cm 2 of each porcine skin sample. The diffusion cells were filled with 3 ml_ of a receptor fluid, which was a saline solution having 0.9 wt.% of NaCI. The porcine skin samples of diffusion cells were maintained at a temperature of 32°C for 16 hours.
  • the porcine skin samples from the diffusion cells were washed with a 0.6 ml_ solution containing 5 wt.% of lauryl ether sulfate and soft massaged for 30 seconds using a half cotton bud. Subsequently, the porcine skin samples were washed using 0.6 ml_ of a solution containing 5 wt.% of lauryl ether sulfate by aspirating and dispensing the solution several times with a pipette. The porcine skin samples were then washed three times by aspirating and dispensing with a pipette 0.6 ml_ of water. After each of the foregoing washing steps, the respective solution or water was removed using a pipette. The porcine skin samples were dried using two half cotton buds after the washing steps were completed.
  • Example Composition A was then performed on the porcine skin samples using adhesive DSquameTM tape, which was commercially available from Clinical & Derm. Specifically, 30 pieces of tape stripping (10 pieces obtained from each donor of porcine skin samples). Using a LC-MSMS device, the amount of Example Composition A that penetrated into epidermis, dermis (epd), and receptor fluid was determined to be an average amount of about 2.2 pg/cm 2 of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.
  • I NCI is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
  • all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1-5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3- 5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure may be substantially free of non-incidental amounts of the ingredient(s) or compound(s) described herein.
  • a non-incidental amount of an ingredient or compound is the amount of that ingredient or compound that is added into the cosmetic composition by itself.
  • a cosmetic composition may be substantially free of a non incidental amount of an ingredient or compound, although such ingredient(s) or compound(s) may be present as part of a raw material that is included as a blend of two or more compounds.
  • an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component.
  • tocopherol may be characterized as both a skin active agent and a preservative. If a particular composition includes both a skin active agent and a preservative, steareth- 20 will serve only as the skin active agent or only as the preservative (tocopherol does not serve as both the skin active agent and preservative).
  • a mixture thereof also relates to “mixtures thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • the term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
  • treat refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair on a user’s head and/or body.
  • compositions/method/kits may be free or essentially free of the component.
  • a particular composition may be free or essentially free of silicones.

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour une pénétration améliorée d'agents actifs pour la peau, comprenant environ 0,1 à environ 10 % en poids de C-glycoside ; environ 0,1 à environ 5 % en poids de distéarate de polyglycéryle-3 méthylglucose; environ 0,1 à environ 5 % en poids de polyacrylate de sodium ; et de l'eau, la composition cosmétique étant une émulsion huile dans l'eau, et tous les pourcentages en poids étant basés sur le poids total de la composition cosmétique. L'invention concerne également des procédés de traitement de la peau endommagée au moyen de compositions cosmétiques.
EP21742656.8A 2020-06-30 2021-06-29 Composition cosmétique pour pénétration améliorée Pending EP4171487A1 (fr)

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US16/916,569 US11534381B2 (en) 2020-06-30 2020-06-30 Cosmetic composition for improved penetration
FR2009056A FR3113836B1 (fr) 2020-09-07 2020-09-07 Composition cosmétique pour pénétration améliorée
PCT/US2021/039513 WO2022006047A1 (fr) 2020-06-30 2021-06-29 Composition cosmétique pour pénétration améliorée

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CN117940110A (zh) * 2021-09-23 2024-04-26 莱雅公司 用于护理角蛋白材料的组合物
WO2024000388A1 (fr) * 2022-06-30 2024-01-04 L'oreal Composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2024065760A1 (fr) * 2022-09-30 2024-04-04 L'oreal Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques
CN116172891B (zh) * 2023-03-10 2023-11-28 珠海市华中源生物科技有限公司 一种多效保湿组合物及其制备方法

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