EP4076378A1

EP4076378A1 - Cosmetic composition having gloss and lasting properties

Info

Publication number: EP4076378A1
Application number: EP20848850.2A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Fabienne Brossard; Mathilde GARNIER; Valérie de la Poterie
Original assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Current assignee: LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date: 2019-12-20
Filing date: 2020-12-18
Publication date: 2022-10-26
Also published as: WO2021123667A1; FR3104991A1; US20230033961A1; KR20220119633A; CN114867459A; JP2023507483A; FR3104991B1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least a) a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1] (I) wherein - Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents an -OSiMe3 group, - y ranges from 1 to 1000, and - z ranges from 1 to 1000, b) a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, c) a branched dextrin ester, and d) advantageously a liposoluble polymer selected from among the group consisting of: (i) acrylate polymers selected from among the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms, and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide, (ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and (iii) mixtures thereof, and its use in particular on the lips for a make-up result with improved gloss and longer-lasting gloss and color. Preferably, the composition is in a semi-solid or solid form.

Description

l

Cosmetic composition with shine and hold properties

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetics field and in particular to a cosmetic composition having properties of shine and of retention of shine over time.

STATE OF THE ART

Makeup products for the lips, in liquid, semi-fluid or solid (stick) form, having color retention properties over time are known from the prior art. Shiny makeup products for the lips (gloss) are also known, but it is difficult to combine the properties of shine and hold of the shine over time, a fortiori in one and the same composition.

“Double action” lip makeup products are in fact known with the application of a first composition to provide the color and the application of a second composition for the deposition of a shiny film. However, there remains the need to develop compositions for both simpler and faster application, in a single step, making it possible to provide both improved shine properties, and color retention and hold properties. shine over time, while remaining comfortable. The Applicant has rightly demonstrated that the combined use of two immiscible oils, a particular resin and particular polymers for holding, made it possible to meet this need. The present invention thus makes it possible, by the formation of a transparent film on the surface resulting from the demixing of the two immiscible oils, to obtain an immediate shine greater than or equal to that of the lip varnishes available on the market with a hold of the. shine improved over time. The invention further exhibits properties of color fastness over time and of non-transfer of color which are particularly remarkable, due to the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the film applied to the lips.

The composition of the invention is a homogeneous composition which can be provided in liquid, semi-solid or solid form. More specifically, it will be a makeup composition for the lips for application in a single step. DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

An aim of the invention is to provide a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular a make-up composition for the lips in a single step, exhibiting improved shine and gloss retention properties. There is proposed for this purpose, according to a first aspect of the invention, a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least: a) a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

[Chem 1] in which

- Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3, y varies between 1 and 1000, and z varies between 1 and 1000, b) a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, c) a branched ester of dextrin, and d) advantageously a liposoluble polymer chosen from the group consisting of:

(i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,

(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and

(iii) their mixtures. The composition of the invention is a homogeneous composition. The term “homogeneous” is understood to mean that the composition of the invention has the same characteristics and / or the same properties in all its parts. The composition of the invention is in particular of visually homogeneous or uniform appearance, that is to say that each of the phases which it comprises cannot be individualized with the naked eye, as opposed to a multiphase composition 'or 'biphasic' in which the phases are distinct to the naked eye or in which areas are observed which do not have the same characteristics and / or the same properties.

This homogeneous and stable appearance is characteristic of the composition when it is in the form of bulk or in its packaging unit. On the other hand, at the time of application to the keratin materials, the coexistence of immiscible oils in the composition produces a demixing of the oils and the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the makeup film applied to the keratin materials.

The homogeneity and the stability of the composition of the invention are generally achieved by the use of a fatty phase texturizing agent such as a pasty fatty substance, a wax, a polymer or any soluble or dispersed gelling or thickening agent. in the fatty phase, or mixtures thereof. In particular, the texturing agent will be chosen from a wax, a pasty fatty substance or a mixture thereof.

Depending on the total content of texturizing agent (s), the composition of the invention can be more or less viscous. The total content of texturizing agent (s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the lowest values (close to 3%), the composition of the invention may be in a fluid, homogeneous, slightly viscous form. The composition of the invention can also be in semi-solid form, or even in solid form, with higher contents of texturing agents.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition is in semi-solid or solid form at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

By 'semi-solid' is meant a composition having a consistency or a texture which is neither liquid, that is to say that it does not flow spontaneously under its own weight at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg), nor solid because it has a hardness less than 30 Nnrr ¹ .

The term “solid” is understood to mean a composition exhibiting, at a temperature of 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm of Hg), a hardness greater than 30 Nnrr ¹ , preferably greater than 40 Nnrr ¹ .

The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C by the so-called “butter-cutting thread” method, which consists of cutting transversely a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, using a rigid metal wire of diameter 250 μm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 60 mm / min. The hardness of the samples is expressed in g and can be measured using a texturometer of the TAXT Plus type Texturometer. The semi-solid or solid texture of the composition not only makes it possible to manufacture particular shapes, for example a stick (sticks) but also to further improve the homogeneity of the composition in bulk form or in its packaging unit, all by allowing the demixing of the oils and the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the film applied to the lips at the time of its application to the lips.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising the application, to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as defined according to the invention.

In particular, the composition is a makeup composition and preferably a makeup composition for the lips.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

A first subject of the invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least: a) a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I)

[Chem 1] in which

(iii) their mixtures.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition will also comprise a texturizing, gelling and / or structuring agent, in particular pasty fatty substances, waxes or their mixture, which make it possible to stabilize the system, or even to freeze it, without disturbing the result of hold and shine.

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise a pasty fatty substance, a wax or a mixture thereof, and preferably in a total amount ranging from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. .

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition of the invention is in the form of a homogeneous fluid composition, when it is in the form of bulk or in its packaging unit.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a semi-solid composition.

According to yet another embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a solid composition.

Preferably, it will be a semi-solid or solid composition, and more preferably a solid composition.

The C8-C30 fatty alcohol and the branched dextrin ester are chosen to allow the color to adhere to keratin materials. Phenylated silicone oil, immiscible with C8-C30 fatty alcohol, forms an ultra-shiny transparent film on the surface.

To improve comfort on application and over time, oils and semi-solid fatty substances can advantageously be added. To improve holding performance and / or to reduce the feeling of tackiness that may to appear progressively due to the presence of the branched ester and possible other holding polymers, powdery fillers can advantageously be added. To increase the glide on application and improve the sensory effect of the deposited film, additional oils which are eliminated on application and the formation of the film can also be added.

To increase the gloss and color holding performance (in other words, non-transfer properties), polymers are advantageously added.

The composition of the invention therefore comprises at least one oily phase. The term “oily phase” is understood to mean an oil or a mixture of oils.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” is intended to mean a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase according to the invention can comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof. The term “silicone oil” is understood to mean, according to the invention, an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

By "hydrocarbon oil" is meant according to the invention an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms. The composition of the invention will in particular comprise at least one phenyl silicone oil and one hydrocarbon oil.

Phenylated silicone oil

The composition of the invention comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil. The term “phenylated silicone oil” according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted by at least one phenyl group.

The phenylated silicone oil according to the invention is in particular chosen from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxanes and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1] in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3 and y varies between 1 and 1000, z varies between 1 and 1000.

It is possible, for example, to use Belsils PDM20, PDM100 and PDM1000 from Wacker and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, in particular sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 sold by the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g / mol).

The non-volatile phenyl silicone oil is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, in particular from 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one phenylated silicone oil of formula (I), preferably an oil of the INCI name trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone.

The composition can also comprise a second phenylated silicone oil distinct from the first and having a formula (II) [Chem 2]. in which the groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl, at least three of them, or even at least four of them, or even at least five of them being a phenyl. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as second non-volatile phenyl silicone oil, a compound of formula (III)

[Chem 3]

Ph Me Pli in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl, otherwise called trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane.

Such a phenylated silicone is in particular manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or also Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1, 3,5-trimethyl 1, 1, 3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. According to a preferred embodiment, the reference PH-1555 HRI (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) will be used.

According to a particular embodiment, the second phenylated silicone oil distinct from the first phenylated silicone oil described above is present in a content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the first and second silicone phenylated oil are present in the composition in a weight ratio (% ^1st oil non-volatile silicone phenylated /% 2 ^nd oil non-volatile silicone phenylated) ranging from 2 to 6, in particular of 3 to 5. C8-C30 fatty alcohols (oil immiscible with phenylated silicone oil)

The compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol. The fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula ROH, R representing a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the aforementioned R radical is a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30, in particular from 10 to 24, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or even natural origin. Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as, for example, ether alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols. According to a particular embodiment, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof . Preferably, octyldodecanol will be used. Mention may in particular be made of ISOFOL 20 from SASOL.

According to a particular embodiment, the amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the invention will range from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of said composition for a solid formula.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least one first phenylated silicone oil as described above and at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol in a weight ratio (R1 =% non-volatile phenylated silicone oil /% C8-C30 fatty alcohol ) ranging from 8 to 20, in particular from 10 to 18.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least a first silicone phenylsilicone oil and a second phenyl silicone oil as described above and at least one fatty alcohol C 8 -C 30 in a weight ratio (R2 = (% 1 silicone oil ^era phenylated + % 2 ^{n of} phenylated silicone oil) /% C8-C30 fatty alcohol) ranging from 12 to 25, in particular from 15 to 20.

Branched dextrin ester (film forming agent)

The branched dextrin ester according to the invention may comprise an esterified chain or several esterified chains, which are identical or different. It may for example be a dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids. These esters of dextrin can be prepared using conventional esterification methods. For example, the following methods can be implemented:

1) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives as well as with, where appropriate, one or more derivatives of other fatty acids, in proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above.

2) Dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted in a first step, with one or more branched fatty acid derivatives, then in a second step, with one or more derivatives of a or more of the other fatty acids, in the proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above. Usually, halides, acid anhydrides, are used as fatty acid derivatives. More particularly, in either of the above two options, the dextrin is dispersed in a reaction solvent, and a catalyst is added thereto, if necessary. This mixture is reacted by adding the above-mentioned fatty acid derivative (s), preferably halides.

In process 1), these derivatives are mixed and added simultaneously to the reaction mixture, and in process 2) the derivatives are introduced successively. As usual solvent, mention may be made of dimethylformamide, formamide, acetamide, ketones, aromatic compounds such as benzene, toluene, xylene, dioxane, or their mixtures. The suitable catalysts are usually chosen from tertiary amine compounds such as pyridine, picoline. The reaction temperature is generally chosen as a function of the starting derivatives of the fatty acid (s). It is generally between 0 and 100 ° C. The dextrin esters are then purified in the usual way.

According to a particular embodiment, the branched ester of dextrin is an ester of dextrin, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150, and for which the fatty acid (s) comprise (s) from 50% to 100% in moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid (s), one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by moles, based of the total quantity of fatty acid (s), of one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree substitution of dextrin by the fatty acid (s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

Such dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865. According to a preferred embodiment, the branched ester of dextrin is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, l. dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate.

Among the compounds sold, mention may be made of the dextrin isostearate UNIFILMA HVY sold by the company Chiba Flour Milling Co.

According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the percentage of branched ester of dextrin is between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 12% and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Fat soluble polymer (held polymer)

The composition of the invention advantageously further comprises a fat-soluble polymer, chosen from the group consisting of:

(iii) their mixtures.

The fat-soluble polymer can be a polymer intended to provide hold and / or to form a film (so-called “film-forming” polymer).

The term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support. In the text, the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer. By “copolymer” is meant a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure. The term “liposoluble film-forming polymer” means a film-forming polymer dissolved in the liquid fatty phase, for example in the phenylated silicone oil according to the invention. The film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin.

The acrylate polymers used in the present invention act as hold polymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms act as film-forming polymers. Acrylate polymers

The acrylate polymers which can be used in the composition of the invention are advantageously chosen from: silicone acrylate polymers, in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as for example KP-545 from Shin- Etsu), acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy, and in particular the acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy in dimethicone (such as DM FA-4003 from Dow Corning ^®), acrylate / methacrylate polytriméthylsiloxy in isododecane (for such as FA-4004 ID Dow Corning ^®), the acrylate / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone methacrylate such as KP-561 from Shin-Etsu P); acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms, in particular C10-C30 (homo) acrylate polymers of INCI name poly C10-30 alkyl acrylates, such as that marketed under the name TEGO SP 13-1 by the company AIR PRODUCTS and the copolymers of acrylates and of acrylamide, in particular the copolymers of acrylates and of t-butylacrylamides, such as that marketed under the name ULTRAHOLD 8 or ULTRAHOLD STRONG (INCI: “Acrylates / t- Butylacrylamide copolymer) by the company BASF. According to a particular embodiment, the acrylate and acrylamide copolymer is pre-dispersed in a non-volatile oil to facilitate its integration into the oily phase of the composition, in particular a hydrogenated polyisobutene.

The acrylate polymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene

The copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene which can be used in the composition of the invention comprise an alkene chain of at least 18 carbon atoms, in particular a C18-C30 alkene chain, such as VP / eicosene copolymers , VP / triacontanyl.

Use will preferably be made of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers comprising a linear C20-C30 alkene chain, such as VP / eicosene sold under the name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI: eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) by the company ASHLAND, triacontanyl PVP marketed under the name UNIMER U-6 by the company INDUCHEM.

The VP and alkene copolymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 8 to 20% by weight, in particular 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise at least one copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene as described above, in particular a VP / eicosene copolymer marketed under the name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI : eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) by the company Ashland.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise an acrylate polymer as defined above and a copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene as described above. According to this particular embodiment, the weight ratio between the acrylate polymer and the copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene (R =% acrylate polymer /% copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene) will range from 1 to 5 , in particular from 2 to 4.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise a liposoluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and of alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, of preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and of t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.

The total content of liposoluble film-forming polymers in the composition of the invention may range from 8 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The% of liposoluble film-forming polymer is expressed in% by weight of active material (a.i.) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least the following ingredients: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone octyldodecanol dextrin isostearate and a VP / eicosene copolymer.

According to another particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least the following ingredients: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane octyldodecanol dextrin isostearate an acrylate / t-butylacrylamide copolymer and advantageously a VP / eicosene copolymer. The fatty phase of the composition of the invention is generally textured or structured by a texturing agent, in particular a wax, a pasty fatty substance, or a mixture thereof.

Raincoats

Thus, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will further comprise at least one wax, making it possible to stabilize or even set the system without disturbing the result of hold and shine.

The term “wax”, within the meaning of the present invention, is intended to denote a compound which is solid at 25 ° C. which exhibits a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point greater than 30 ° C., preferably greater than 45 ° C.

Mention may be made of natural (sunflower wax, berry wax), microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols comprising 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8- chains. C32 such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with a fatty alcohol, candelilla wax, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by catalysis metallocene and lanolin wax.

According to one particular mode, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one candelilla wax.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 2% to 20%, for example from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the invention relates, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, to a cosmetic composition comprising from 3% to 15% by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of said composition. Pasty fatty substance

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise a pasty fatty substance. The term “pasty fatty compound” or “pasty compound” or “pasty fatty substance” denotes a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is, for example, chosen from the group consisting of triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the pasty compound is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic triglyceride.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of pasty compounds ranging from 1% to 10%, for example from 2% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from oils, fillers, pasty fatty substances, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

Other additional oils

The invention may also include other silicone or hydrocarbon oils, different from the oils described above, to provide lightness and hold to the film deposited on the skin.

These oils are spontaneously eliminated upon application and the formation of the film on the lips. These oils may in particular be chosen from dimethicones 0.5 to 6cst, branched alkanes Cs-Ci _6, linear alkanes C9-C15 branched esters of Cs-Ci ₆ and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from branched C ₁ -C 6 alkanes, in particular isododecane, or linear C9-C13 alkanes.

By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those sold under the name CETIOL by the company BASF and mixtures of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane. (C14) such as those sold under the name VEGELIGHT by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES as well as their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment, these oils can be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Charges

In addition, the composition of the invention may advantageously comprise fillers for reducing the feeling of tackiness which may gradually appear on the lips due to the presence of the branched ester of dextrin.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “fillers” should be understood to mean particles of any shape, colorless or white, of a mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the middle of the composition. The fillers are chosen in particular from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, oxides of zinc and of titanium; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; powders of synthetic polymers, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone or silicone resin powders; cellulose powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred fillers, there may be mentioned in particular cellulose powders, silicone powders, in particular the powders with the INCI name Silicon dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

The fillers may be present in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition of the invention is in particular a makeup composition comprising at least one coloring material.

Coloring matters

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring material” means a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

A coloring material can be chosen from water-soluble or non-water-soluble, liposoluble or non-organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the coloring material (s) are chosen in particular from inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, inorganic or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on inorganic and / or organic materials).

Among the “inorganic pigments”, mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue chromium oxide hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue. For the compositions intended for the lips, mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

Among the “organic pigments”, mention may be made, for example, of D & C red pigments No. 19; D & C red n ° 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D & C Yellow # 6; D&C Orange No. 4; D&C Orange No. 5; D&C Red No. 27; D & C red n ° 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D & C Red n ° 36 ;; D&C Red No. 33; D&C Orange No. 10; D & C yellow n ° 6; ; D&C Red No. 30; D & C red n ° 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes.

In particular, the coloring material (s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

GALENIC

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

By “anhydrous” is meant in particular that water is preferably not added to the compositions but can be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition is a semi-solid composition as defined above. According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention is a solid composition.

The composition of the invention is a makeup and / or care composition for keratin materials, in particular a makeup and / or care composition for the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips. As makeup composition for the skin, there may be mentioned in particular a solid foundation, an eye shadow, a blush, an eye liner, an eye pencil, or mascara cake. As makeup composition for the lips, there may be mentioned in particular a stick for the lips, a lip contour pencil, or a lip balm.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, it will be a solid composition for making up the lips, in particular a stick or lipstick.

Cosmetic process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and / or making up keratin materials comprising the application, to said keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition according to l 'invention.

The composition applied to the lips is preferably a solid composition for making up the lips, in particular a stick or lipstick.

The process according to the invention is in particular a process for making up the lips, intended to deposit on said lips a shiny and long-lasting film of shine and color.

The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The% are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Selection of an oil to combine with phenylated silicone oil 1.1 Behavior of binary mixtures

The Applicant has evaluated the ability of a phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) to mix or not with various compounds and hydrocarbon or silicone oils.

A possible effect of separation into several layers (otherwise called “demixing”) of a binary mixture of immiscible oils is observed. For this, the mixture of the two compounds or oils (BELSIL PDM1000 + Oil X) is heated to 80 ° C for 15 minutes under agitation. The mixture is packaged in a transparent glass bottle. The mixture is observed at T0 then after 24 hours at rest:

The results are presented in Table 3 below:

BINARY MIXTURES: OIL X% / (100-X)% BELSIL PDM-1000) [Table 1]

LEGEND:

0 a transparent phase + a cloudy phase ++ two phases For test 1.2, only the oils for which a demixing (separation) effect with phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) is observed, for their 'shiny' effect, and their 'non-transfer' effect is then evaluated. 'colored. 1.2 Evaluation of the demixing and non-transfer effect

The selected oils are used for the preparation of a colored test formula comprising the phenyl silicone oil and additionally pigments.

The formula has the following composition (% by weight)

[Table 2]

The above test formula is packaged in a vial. The test formula is out of phase at rest, taking into account the immiscibility of the oils. It must therefore be shaken before the application step on the lips.

The behavior of the test formula when it is applied to the lips is evaluated in vivo on a panel of experts, namely the appearance of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film and the capacity of this film not to transfer the color ('non-transfer' effect).

[Table 3]

Evaluation of the demixing effect of oils and non-transfer of the color of the film. The demixing effect is observed on the lips after application of the film, and the non-transfer of the color evaluated by applying a support (eg a finger or a paper tissue) to the lips several times at a few minutes intervals. .

It is surprisingly found that octyldodecanol, a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, is the only oil among those tested which allows the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film after application (gloss effect), without transfer of the color. color (non-transfer effect).

Example 2: Selection of film-forming agents The Applicant tested several film-forming agents (resins or polymers) to identify those which could form a homogeneous colored film, while retaining the phenomenon of demixing linked to the presence of immiscible oils. By "homogeneous film" is meant a film which spreads evenly over the lips and has a smooth finish of uniform color, without surface or color irregularities.

2.1 Ability to form a homogeneous film

Another test formula is prepared according to Table 4 below, comprising a film-forming agent and binary mixture selected in Example 1.

[Table 4]

The test formula is applied to the lips. The homogeneity of the film is evaluated once the formula is applied to the lips (Table 5)

[Table 5]

++ Homogeneous film

+ Non-homogeneous film

0 No film formed The film-forming agents which produce a homogeneous film on the lips were selected for test 2.2.

2.2 Evaluation of the demixing and non-transfer effect

The behavior of a colored formula with pigments as defined in Table 6, comprising a film-forming agent selected in 2.1, was again evaluated on a panel of experts.

[Table 6] The above formula is stirred if necessary, before application to the lips.

The behavior of the colored formula with a film-forming agent is evaluated using the same method as in 1.2 (Table 6). The results of the evaluation of the demixing and of the non-transfer of color are presented in Table 7 below: [Table 7]

It emerges from this study that only dextrin isostearate (branched ester of dextrin) makes it possible to obtain the desired properties of shine, non-transfer of color and homogeneity of the make-up film. Example 3: Selection of resistance polymers

At the end of Examples 1 and 2 above, an attempt is made to improve the hold of the colored film obtained using the composition of the invention, while maintaining a shine effect linked to the demixing phenomenon observed above. above.

A composition is prepared according to Table 8, which contains both the film-forming agent and the oil selected in the previous examples:

[Table 8]

The pigments are ground in the presence of octyldodecanol. This pigment phase is heated to 95 ° C

Separately, dextrin isostearate is dispersed in octyldodecanol at 95 ° C using a Rayneri. After homogenization, the phenyl silicone oil is added.

The two phases prepared above are mixed and homogenized while hot.

The X-hold polymer is added to the composition obtained in the previous step.

The composition is poured into suitable packaging, then cooled.

The properties of the different compositions prepared are evaluated using the protocol below:

The product is applied to the lips with the applicator if the product is semi-pasty and directly with the stick if the product is solid, a- Evaluation at TO

Wait 5 minutes after the film of the composition has been deposited on the lips, then the finger is applied lightly to the lips to assess the tackiness of the film and to check that the colored film has not been transferred. A photo of the makeup lips is taken to visually assess the shine at TO. b- Evaluation at T12h

Apply the finger lightly to the lips to assess the tackiness and check the non-transfer of the colored film at T2 h.

A photo of the makeup lips is taken to assess the shine and compare it with that observed at TO. The results are presented in the following table 9: [Table 9] LEGEND

Effect (demixing and non-transfer)

Satisfactory effect: 2 Insufficient performance: 1 No effect: 0

Evaluation (sticky and shiny) for the formulas with a satisfactory demixing effect and non-transfer (note 2):

- insufficient 0 average + satisfactory

It is noted that the performance polymers tested do not all exhibit the same behavior when they are combined in a composition of the invention.

A number of them do not achieve the effect of the invention, which consists in the appearance of a transparent film on the surface of the applied film providing shine and non-transfer of color.

There are disparities in the performance evaluated by a panel of experts, in terms of tack, shine and hold.

To obtain optimum performance in a composition of the invention, an eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and / or an acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer will preferably be used.

Example 4: Compositions according to the invention

The following compositions are illustrated with hold polymers, but it is also possible to prepare compositions without hold polymer (qs on oils, resin and waxes) and obtain completely acceptable gloss and non-transfer performance.

The use of hold polymers further improves the hold of said compositions.

The following compositions comprising hold polymers are prepared according to the following procedure:

The resin (branched dextrin ester) and a holding polymer (acrylate / butyl acrylamide copolymer) are introduced into part of the octyldodecanol at 95 ° C. with stirring. After homogenization, a second strength polymer (VP / eicosene copolymer) is added and the mixture is stirred for 30 min. The waxes are added and the mixture is stirred for 20 min.

The pigments are ground in the remainder of octyldodecanol. This pigment phase is added to the rest of the formula, then homogenized.

Phenylated silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) is added to the preparation with hot stirring for at least 20-30 min.

The oils and semi-solid fatty substances are added and the mixture is stirred for 15 min. The powder charges are then added and the mixture is stirred for 20-30 min.

Finally, isododecane is added and allowed to homogenize for a maximum of 2 minutes.

The composition is packaged in a suitable compartment.

4-1 Semi-pasty composition for the lips

[Table 10]

The composition is prepared according to the procedure described above and packaged in a pack of the bottle type for gloss. It has a visually homogeneous appearance.

Applied to the lips, the composition leaves a shiny film. The film's shine hold is enhanced to last throughout the day, while remaining comfortable. 4-2 Solid composition for the lips (anhydrous stick)

TTable 111 The composition is prepared according to the procedure described above and packaged in a pack of stick type for lipstick. The stick is visually homogeneous in appearance.

As for composition 4.1, the composition leaves a glossy film on the lips. The film's shine hold is enhanced to last throughout the day, while remaining comfortable. 4-3 Solid composition for the lips (anhydrous stick)

Fable 121 The composition, without a hold-up polymer, is prepared according to the procedure described above and packaged in a pack of the stick type for lipstick. The solid composition is visually homogeneous.

The composition leaves a shiny film on the lips. The gloss of the film is improved, thanks to the compounds of phases A, D1 and D2, to last throughout the day, while remaining comfortable.

4-4 Solid composition for the lips (anhydrous stick) ITable 131

The composition leaves a glossy, comfortable and good hold film on the lips.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase and at least: a) a phenylated silicone oil of formula (I) [Chem 1] in which

- Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents a group - OSiMe3, y varies between 1 and 1000, and - z varies between 1 and 1000, b) a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, c) a branched ester of dextrin , and d) advantageously a liposoluble polymer chosen from the group consisting of:

(iii) their mixtures.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises a pasty fatty substance, a wax or a mixture thereof, preferably in a total amount ranging from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that it is a semi-solid composition or a solid composition, preferably a solid composition.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the fat-soluble polymer is chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide, preferably a copolymer of acrylate and t-butylacrylamide, and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is an anhydrous composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the branched ester of dextrin is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably the branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, l isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least the following compounds: trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone octyldodecanol dextrin isostearate and a VP / eicosene copolymer.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from additional oils, fillers, pasty fatty substances, gelling agents, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a composition for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips, in particular of a lip lacquer, a gloss, or a lipstick, preferably a lipstick.

11. Cosmetic process comprising the application, to keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.