EP4037636A1

EP4037636A1 - Anti-uv cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: EP4037636A1
Application number: EP20793020.7A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Clémentine CHAMPAGNE; Hélène Pernot
Original assignee: Coatex SAS
Current assignee: Coatex SAS
Priority date: 2019-09-30
Filing date: 2020-09-28
Publication date: 2022-08-10
Also published as: US20220409496A1; CN114449990A; WO2021064299A1; BR112022004356A2; KR20220075350A; FR3101247A1

Abstract

The invention relates to an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an emulsifying polymer which is prepared by polymerising an anionic monomer and a C1-C7 ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. The anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared in the absence of a surfactant. The invention also relates to the preparation and use of said anti-UV cosmetic composition. The anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention provides dual protection for the skin: it protects against UV rays and limits the penetration of UV filters into the skin.

Description

ANTI-UV COSMETIC COMPOSITION

DESCRIPTION

The invention relates to an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising an emulsifying polymer which is prepared by polymerizing an anionic monomer and a C1-C7 ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. The anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound. The invention also relates to the preparation and use of this anti-UV cosmetic composition. The anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention provides double protection for the skin: it protects against UV radiation and it limits the penetration of UV filters into the skin.

Thus, the invention provides a photoprotective composition making it possible to reduce the risks of skin sensitization, in particular for areas of the skin naturally exposed to light or which frequently undergo overexposure to light. These areas of the skin usually require the use of photoprotective products in order to reduce or even avoid the harmful effects of solar radiation.

Generally, the photoprotective compositions use substances such as anti-UV agents which may have some skin sensitizing power. Most often, the sensitization results from the anti-UV agent passing through the skin barrier.

In order to limit or avoid such sensitization, the penetration of anti-UV agents must, as far as possible, be avoided or limited, in particular the penetration through the skin barrier. The photoprotective compositions used should therefore make it possible to maintain the anti-UV filters in the skin areas less likely to react with the anti-UV agent. There is therefore a need to have available improved anti-UV cosmetic compositions making it possible to maintain anti-UV filters in the skin areas regardless of the viscosity of the composition or else independently of the suspensive properties of the composition.

Cosmetic compositions are known, in particular cosmetic compositions in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type for which a lipophilic phase is dispersed in a hydrophilic phase.

Usually, these cosmetic compositions known in the form of an emulsion require the use of a surfactant during their preparation. Such emulsions must be stable and have a specific texture for each use which makes them effective. and pleasant to the touch. These cosmetic compositions must also be easy to apply. In general, cosmetic compositions comprise a very large number of ingredients. The reduction in the number of ingredients while retaining the properties of cosmetic compositions during their use, but also during their preparation, is constantly sought.

All of these properties are particularly sought after for cosmetic sun protection compositions. The same is true for cosmetic makeup compositions, for emollient cosmetic compositions and for foundation compositions. Document WO 2019122784 describes a method of preparing an emulsion by dispersing a lipophilic compound in a hydrophilic continuous phase. This emulsion does not include an anti-UV agent. Document WO 2014139901 describes a sunscreen composition comprising a sunscreen agent combined with a thickening homopolymer and a styrenic copolymer. Document EP 1093798 discloses cosmetic or dermatological emulsions comprising an organic UV filter in micronized form. Document FR 2972370 describes a method for preparing cosmetic compositions. Document WO 2019185999 describes a method for preparing a cosmetic composition which is resistant to water but which does not include an anti-UV agent.

There is therefore a need for improved anti-UV cosmetic compositions as well as methods for the preparation or use of such anti-UV cosmetic compositions which are also improved.

The anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide a solution to all or part of the problems of cosmetic compositions of the state of the art. Thus, the invention provides an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound, and comprising:

• from 1 to 75% by weight of the composition, of particles of a lipophilic phase comprising at least one lipophilic compound and at least one anti-UV agent chosen from an organic sun filter, mineral particles and their combinations, dispersed in:

• from 25 to 99% by weight of the composition, of a hydrophilic continuous phase comprising:

- from 90 to 99.6% by weight of the hydrophilic phase, of at least one hydrophilic compound and - from 0.4 to 10% by weight of the hydrophilic phase, of at least one emulsifying polymer (P) prepared by at least one polymerization reaction:

(al) of at least one anionic monomer comprising at least one polymerizable olefinic unsaturation and at least one carboxylic acid function or one of its salts and

(a2) at least one C1-C7 ester of a compound derived from an acid selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid and l crotonic acid.

Within the composition according to the invention, the amounts of lipophilic phase and of hydrophilic phase may vary, in particular according to the desired texture or else according to the final use of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 1 to 70% by weight or from 5 to 70% by weight, of dispersed lipophilic phase, relative to the total amount by weight of continuous hydrophilic phase and of dispersed lipophilic phase. Also preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 1 to 65% by weight or from 5 to 65% by weight, of dispersed lipophilic phase, relative to the total amount by weight of continuous hydrophilic phase and of dispersed lipophilic phase. .

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 1 to 60% by weight or from 5 to 60% by weight, of dispersed lipophilic phase, relative to the total amount by weight of continuous hydrophilic phase and of dispersed lipophilic phase .

The anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic compound in the form of particles to form the lipophilic phase. Preferably, the lipophilic compound is a compound for cosmetic use.

Preferably according to the invention, the lipophilic phase comprises at least one lipophilic compound chosen from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, esters, butters, waxes (for example beeswax), oils, preferably an oil chosen from mineral oils (for example paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, mineral oils having a boiling point ranging from 300 to 400 ° C), oils of animal origin (for example squalenes, squalane, perhydrosqu alene), vegetable oils (e.g. sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, kernel oil, avocado, jojoba oil, olive oil, castor oil, grain germ oils, the liquid fraction of shea butter), unsaponifiable compounds from natural oils, synthetic oils ( for example hydrogenated polyisobutene, fatty acid esters such as purcellin oil, butyl myristate, myristate of isopropyl, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid such as disopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, acetylglycerides, alcohol octanoates, polyalcohol octanoates, alcohol decanoates, decanoates of polyalcohols, in particular glycol octanoates, glycerol octanoates, glycol decanoates, glycerol decanoates, alcohol ricinoleates, polyalcohol ricinoleates), terpenes, polyterpenes, phytosterol, silicone oils (for example cyclomethicones, low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes or silicone oils, high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes or silicone gums, polymethylsiloxanes, dimethiconols, phenylated polydimethylsiloxanes, l low molecular weight siloxanols, high molecular weight siloxanols, trimethylsiloxysilicates), fluorinated oils (eg fluorinated perfluoroethers and fluorosilicones). The anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one anti-UV agent in the lipophilic phase. Preferably according to the invention, the anti-UV agent is chosen from:

- particles of titanium dioxide, particles of zinc oxide, coated mineral particles, in particular coated by means of a hydrophobic compound, for example stearic acid, in particular particles of titanium dioxide coated by means of a hydrophobic compound, for example stearic acid, and combinations thereof,

- lipophilic anti-UV agents, preferably chosen from avobenzone, ethylhexyltriazone, benzophenone-3, octocrylene, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-4, ethylhexylsalicylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, octyl-N, N-dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl PABA, dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine, homomenthyl salicylate, PEG-25 PABA, lipophilic cosmetic active molecules, water-soluble cosmetic active molecules, and their combinations,

- their combinations, in particular the combinations of titanium dioxide particles and of at least one organic sunscreen. Particularly preferably according to the invention, the anti-UV agent combines particles of titanium dioxide and at least one organic sunscreen chosen from lipophilic anti-UV agents, preferably chosen from among avobenzone, ethylhexyltriazone, benzophenone-3, octocrylene, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-4, ethylhexylsalicylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, octyl-N, N-dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, butylphenoxylethoxydibenzoyloxy-benzoyloxyloxy-benzoyloxy-benzyloxy-benzyloxy-benzoyloxyamoxycinnamate, isoamyl-methoxycinnamate, diethylphenoxy-methoxyamoxyamoxy-benzoyyloxyamoxyamoxyamyloxyamoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine, homomenthyl salicylate, PEG-25 of active cosmetic PABophA molecules, cosmetic molecules, PEG-25, active cosmetic liposols, cosmetic molecules. Also particularly preferably according to the invention, the anti-UV agent combines several of these organic sunscreens. In general, the composition according to the invention comprises an amount of anti-UV agent ranging from 0.1 to 10% by mass and, more preferably, from 1 to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass. of the composition.

In the composition according to the invention, the lipophilic phase is dispersed within the hydrophilic phase which comprises at least one hydrophilic compound. Preferably according to the invention, the hydrophilic compound is chosen from water alone or as a mixture with at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic anti-UV agents, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycols, for example propylene glycol, butylene glycol, humectant compounds, for example. example of humectant compounds for cosmetic composition, derived from sugars, for example xylytol, maltilol. According to the invention, the hydrophilic phase may be different from glycerol. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH greater than 4, more preferably greater than 5 and much more preferably greater than 6 or 6.5.

Also preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH less than 13, more preferably less than 12 and much more preferably less than 11.

Also preferably, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 4 to 13 or from 4 to 12 or from 4 to 11, more preferably ranging from 5 to 13 or from 5 to 12 or from 5 to 11 and much more preferably ranging from 6 to 13 or from 6 to 12 or from 6 to 11, also more preferably ranging from 6.5 to 13 or from 6.5 to 12 or from 6.5 to 11.

Essentially according to the invention, the hydrophilic continuous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic compound and at least one emulsifying polymer (P) prepared by at least a polymerization reaction of the monomers (a1) and (a2). Although having an emulsifying character, the polymer (P) according to the invention is not a surface-active compound. In fact, the copolymer (P) is not an amphiphilic compound.

The polymer (P) used according to the invention is known as such. It can be prepared by known methods, in particular a radical polymerization reaction, for example a polymerization reaction in emulsion, in dispersion or in solution. The polymerization can be carried out in a solvent, in the presence of at least one initiator compound. As examples of initiator compounds, it is possible to use at least one compound chosen from azo initiator compounds (for example azo-bis-isobutyronitrile), a peroxide compound, preferably hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, benzoyl hydroperoxide and their mixtures. . Mention may also be made of alkali metal persulphates, in particular sodium persulphate and potassium persulphate, ammonium persulphate, partially water-soluble peroxides, in particular succinic peracid, t-butyl hydroperoxide, hydroperoxide. cumyl, persulphates associated with a cuprous ion, with a ferrous ion, with a sulphite ion or with a bisulphite ion, and mixtures thereof.

In addition to the various monomers, the method for preparing the polymer (P) generally uses at least one chain transfer agent, preferably chosen from mercaptan compounds, in particular mercaptan compounds comprising at least 4 carbon atoms such as butylmercaptan, n-octylmercaptan, n-dodecylmercaptan, tert-dodecylmercaptan, isooctyl 3-mercaptopropionate.

According to the invention, the initiator or radical generator compound can therefore be combined with at least one transfer agent for controlled radical polymerization, in particular a transfer agent of the RALT type (reversible addition-fragmentation chain transfer or radical polymerization controlled by transfer of chain reversible by addition-fragmentation). Preferably, the reaction is a radical emulsion polymerization reaction.

Preferably according to the invention, the monomer (a1) is chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, a salt of acrylic acid, a salt of methacrylic acid, a salt of maleic acid, a salt of maleic anhydride, a salt of itaconic acid, a salt of crotonic acid, and combinations thereof. Much more preferably, the monomer (a1) is chosen from acrylic acid, a salt of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, a salt of methacrylic acid and their combinations. Preferably according to the invention, the monomer (a2) is an ester of a C _I -C _O or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl ester. Also preferably according to the invention, the monomer (a2) is a C ₁ -C ₇ ester of acrylic acid or a C ₁ -C ₇ ester of methacrylic acid, more preferably chosen from methyl acrylate, acrylate ethyl, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, ethylhexyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl methacrylate, and combinations thereof. More preferably, the monomer (a2) is chosen from ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and their combinations.

Particularly preferably according to the invention, the monomer (a1) is chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, a salt of acrylic acid, a salt of methacrylic acid, a salt of maleic acid, a salt of maleic anhydride, a salt of itaconic acid, a salt of crotonic acid and their combinations, much more preferably acrylic acid or methacrylic acid; and the monomer (a2) is an ester of a C _I -C _O or an ester of a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or is an ester of C ₁ -C ₇ alkyl acrylic acid ester or a C ₁ -C ₇ of methacrylic acid, preferably chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, ethylhexyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl methacrylate and their combinations, more preferably ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and their combinations.

Also preferably, the polymerization reaction implements:

- 20 to 75 mol% or 25 to 70 mol%, preferably 30 to 70 mol% or 35 to 65 mol%, of monomer (a1) and

- from 25 to 80 mol% or from 30 to 75 mol%, preferably from 30 to 70 mol% or from 35 to 65 mol%, of monomer (a2), relative to the total molar quantity of monomers (a1) and (a2).

Besides the monomers (a1) and (a2), the polymer (P) can be prepared from other monomers. Thus, the polymer (P) can be prepared by a polymerization reaction also implementing: (a3) at least one compound chosen from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, ethoxymethacrylate sulfonic acid, methallyl sulfonate sodium, styrene sulfonate, phosphated hydroxyethyl acrylate, phosphated hydroxypropyl acrylate, phosphated hydroxyethylhexyl acrylate, phosphated hydroxyethyl methacrylate, phosphated hydroxypropyl methacrylate, phosphated hydroxyethylhexyl methacrylate, their salts and combinations or

(a4) at least one compound selected from hydroxyethyl-acrylate, hydroxypropyl-acrylate, hydroxyethylhexyl-acrylate, hydroxyethyl-methacrylate, hydroxypropyl-methacrylate, hydroxyethylhexyl-methacrylate or

(a5) at least one crosslinking monomer or at least one monomer comprising at least two olefinic unsaturations or

(a6) at least one associative monomer.

Also advantageously according to the invention, the polymerization reaction can implement less than 20 mol%, preferably 0.2 to 20 mol%, in particular 0.5 to 10 mol%, of monomer (a3) relative to the total molar amount of monomers.

Also advantageously, the polymerization reaction can implement less than 20 mol%, preferably 0.2 to 20 mol%, in particular 0.5 to 10 mol%, of monomer (a4) relative to the total molar amount of monomers.

According to the invention, the monomer (a5) can be chosen from:

• a compound of formula (I): in which :

- L represents CH ₂ , CH ₂ monoalkoxylated or CH ₂ polyalkoxylated, preferably a monoethoxylated Cth or polyethoxylated Cth group,

- Q represents a direct bond or C (O),

- R represents -C (H) = CH ₂ , -C (CH) = CH ₂ , -C (H) = C (H) C (0) OH, -C (H) = C (H) CH ₃ ,

-C (= CH ₂ ) CH ₂ C (0) 0H, -CH ₂ C (= CH ₂ ) C (0) 0H, Q ³ 0Q ⁴ 0C (0) C (CH) = CH ₂ OR

Q ³ 0Q ⁴ 0C (0) C (H) = CH ₂ ,

- Q ³ represents a divalent residue of an unsymmetrical diisocyanate compound, preferably chosen from tolyl-1,3 -diisocyanate (TDI) and isophorone-diisocyanate (IPDI) and

- Q ⁴ represents CH ₂ , CH ₂ -CH ₂ , _{monoalkoxylated CH 2,} monoalkoxylated CH ₂ -CH _2, polyalkoxylated CH ₂ or polyalkoxylated CH ₂ -CH ₂ and

• a compound of formula (II): in which :

- R ³ independently represents H or CH3,

- L ¹ independently represents a linear or branched C1-C20-alkylene group, preferably an ethylene group or a propylene group and

- p independently represents 0 or an integer ranging from 1 to 30, for example from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, in particular from 1 to 10.

The monomer (a5) can also be chosen from di (meth) acrylates such as polyalkylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, in particular polypropylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, polyethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, triethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, 1,3 -butylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, 1,6-butylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, di ( 1,6-hexanediol meth) acrylate, neopentyl glycol di (meth) acrylate, 1,9-nonanediol di (meth) acrylate, but also 2,2'-bis (4- (acryloxy-propyleoxyphenyl) ) propane, 2,2'-bis (4- (acryloxydiethoxyphenyl)) propane and zinc acrylate; tri (meth) acrylate compounds such as trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate and ethoxylated trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, trimethylolethane tri (meth) acrylate, pentaerythritol tri (meth) acrylate and tri (meth) acrylate tetramethylolmethane; tetra (meth) acrylate compounds such as ditrimethylolpropane tetra (meth) acrylate, tetramethylolmethane tetra (meth) acrylate and pentaerythritol tetra (meth) acrylate; hexa (meth) acrylate compounds such as dipentaerythritol hexa (meth) acrylate; penta (meth) acrylate compounds such as dipentaerythritol penta (meth) acrylate; allyl compounds such as allyl (meth) acrylate, diallylphthalate, diallyl itaconate, diallyl fumarate, diallyl maleate; polyallyl ethers of sucrose having from 2 to 8 groups per molecule, polyallyl ethers of pentaerythritol such as pentaerythritol diallyl ether, pentaerythritol triallyl ether and pentaerythritol tetraallyl ether; polyallyl ethers of trimethylolpropane such as diallyl ether trimethylolpropane (TMPDAE) and triallyl ether trimethylolpropane. Other polyunsaturated compounds include divinyl glycol, divinyl benzene, divinylcyclohexyl, and methylenebisacrylamide.

The monomer (a5) can also be prepared by an esterification reaction of a polyol with an unsaturated anhydride such as acrylic anhydride, methacrylic anhydride, maleic anhydride or itaconic anhydride. To obtain the monomer (a5), it is also possible to use compounds chosen from polyhaloalkanols such as 1,3-dichloroisopropanol and 1,3-dibromoisopropanol; haloepoxyalkanes such as epichlorohydrin, epibromohydrin, 2-methyl epichlorohydrin and epiiodohydrin; polyglycidyl ethers such as 1,4-butanediol diglycidyl ether, glycerin- 1, 3 -diglycidyl ether, ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, propylene glycol diglycidyl ether, diethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, neopentyl glycol diglycidyl ether, polypropylene- glycol diglycidyl ether epichlorohydrin epoxy resin and mixtures. The monomer (a5) can also be chosen from trifunctional crosslinking agents. It may in particular be trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate (TMPTA) or ethoxylated trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate (such as for example TMPTA 30E). The monomer (a5) can also be chosen from trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, ethoxylated trimethylolpropane tri (meth) acrylate, ethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, diallylphthalate, diallylmaleate, diallyl trimethylolpropane ether (TMPDAE) ) and their mixtures.

The monomer (a5) can also be a mixture of two distinct monomers, for example EGDCPEA (ethylene glycol dicyclopentenyl ether acrylate) and TMPTA or else EGDCPEA and TMPTA 30E or even EGDCPEMA (ethylene glycol dicyclopentenyl ether methacrylate) and TMPTA or EGDCPEMA and TMP 30E.

According to the invention, the monomer (a5) is preferably chosen from a compound of formula (I), a compound of formula (II), trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, ethoxylated trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate, ethoxylated trimethylolpropane triacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, diallylphthalate, diallylmaleate, diallyl trimethylolpropane ether (TMPDAE) and mixtures thereof.

Also advantageously, the polymerization reaction can implement less than 5 mol%, preferably from 0.01 to 4 mol%, in particular from 0.02 to 4 mol% or from 0.02 to 2 mol%, in particular from 0.02 to 1 mol% of monomer (a5) relative to the total molar quantity of monomers.

According to the invention, the associative monomer (a6) can be chosen from a compound of formula (III):

R ¹ - (OE) _m - (OP) „- R ² (III) in which: - m and n, identical or different, independently represent 0 or an integer or decimal less than 150, m or n is different from 0,

- EO independently represents a CH2CH2O group,

- OP independently represents a group chosen from CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ 0 and CH ₂ CH (CH) 0,

- R ¹ represents an acrylate group or a methacrylate group and

- R ² represents a _{linear or branched C 6} -C40-alkyl group, a phenyl group, a polyphenyl group, preferably a Cio-C30-alkyl group, linear or branched, more preferably a C12-C22-alkyl group, linear or branched, or a group comprising 2 to 5 phenyls or a tristyrylphenyl group or a pentastyrylcumylphenyl group.

Also advantageously according to the invention, the polymerization reaction can implement less than 20 mol%, preferably from 0.05 to 20 mol%, in particular from 0.1 to 10 mol%, of monomer (a6) relative to the total molar amount of monomers.

Preferably, the polymer (P) is prepared from the only monomers (a1) to (a5), in particular from the combinations of the only monomers (a1) - (a2), (a1) - (a2) - ( a3), (al) - (a2) - (a4), (al) - (a2) - (a5), (al) - (a2) - (a3) - (a4), (al) - (a2) - (a3) - (a5), (al) - (a2) - (a4) - (a5), (al) - (a2) - (a3) - (a4) - (a5), in particular combinations of only monomers (al) - (a2), (al) - (a2) - (a3) and (al) - (a2) - (a5). Also preferably, the polymer (P) is prepared from the combinations of only the monomers (a1) - (a2) - (a6) and (a1) - (a2) - (a5) - (a6).

More preferably, the polymer (P) is prepared from the only monomers (a1) and (a2) or else from the only monomers (a1) - (a2) - (a3), (a1) - (a2) - (a5), (al) - (a2) - (a6) and (al) - (a2) - (a5) - (a6).

Advantageously according to the invention, the polymerization reaction implements:

• from 19.9 to 66 mol% or from 29.8 to 66 mol%, preferably from 29.8 to 53 mol% or from 29.8 to 49 mol%, of monomer (a1),

• 30 to 80 mol% or 40 to 70 mol%, preferably 45 to 70 mol% or 50 to 70 mol%, of monomer (a2),

• from 0.01 to 4 mol% or from 0.02 to 4 mol%, preferably from 0.02 to 2 mol% or from 0.02 to 1 mol%, of monomer (a5), relative to the quantity total molar of these three monomers. Also preferably, the polymer (P) is not a styrenic polymer. It is then prepared in the absence of styrene.

Preferably according to the invention, the polymer (P) can be totally or partially neutralized, preferably by means of at least one compound chosen from NaOH, KOH, ammonium derivatives, ammonia, amino bases, for example triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol or 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol (AMP) and combinations thereof.

Also preferably according to the invention, the polymer (P) can be totally or partially coacervated, more preferably: by reduction of the pH, for example by reduction of the pH to a value less than 6.5, in particular by means of an acidic compound, in particular by means of at least one organic or inorganic acidic compound, in particular an acidic compound chosen from phosphoric acid, citric acid, glucono-lactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, glutamic acid, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, D-gluconic acid, sulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzimidazole-sulfonic acid, tartaric acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, terephthalyphlidene dicamonic acid sulfonic acid, kojic acid, hyaluronic acid or - by increasing the ionic strength, for example by adding at least one ionized compound or at least one s el, in particular NaCl, KC1, MgCk, CaCk, MgSCk, CaS0 ₄ , or by addition of phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (PBSA) or of sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid (NaPCA) or by addition of at least an organic ionized sun filter. Within the composition according to the invention, the amount of polymer (P) present in the hydrophilic phase can vary. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.4 to 9% by weight or from 0.4 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight or from 0.5 to 9% by weight or from 0.5 to 8% by weight or again from 0.6 to 10% by weight or from 0.6 to 9% by weight or from 0.6 to 8% by weight, of polymer (P) per relative to the amount of hydrophilic phase.

Generally, the composition according to the invention comprises an additional amount of hydrophilic compound, for example from 90 to 99.6% by weight of hydrophilic compound relative to the amount of hydrophilic phase when the polymer (P) is present in an amount of 0.4 to 10% by weight. Besides the lipophilic and hydrophilic phases, the composition according to the invention can comprise other substances, in particular other substances for cosmetic use.

The polymer (P) used according to the invention is not a surfactant compound. A surface active compound works by forming a monolayer at the water-oil interface reducing the surface tension of the particles of the lipophilic compound. This surfactant compound forms micelles. For this, a surfactant compound molecule comprises two distinct parts: a lipophilic part and a hydrophilic part.

Advantageously according to the invention, the polymer (P) makes it possible to control the texture and the stability of the emulsion according to the invention. It also allows the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention to be maintained on the surface of the skin after its application. Thus, during its application, the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention forms a thin layer of lipophilic phase on the surface of the skin. This property is accessible in the absence of any film-forming agent.

In addition, the use of the anti-UV cometic composition according to the invention allows the anti-UV filters to be maintained in the skin areas less likely to react with the anti-UV agent. The polymer (P) used makes it possible to limit or prevent the penetration of the anti-UV agent through a hydrophobic substrate, in particular through the skin barrier.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can be implemented within a formulation. The invention therefore also relates to a formulation comprising at least one anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention. Preferably, the formulation according to the invention is chosen from a sun protection formulation, a makeup formulation, a skin care formulation and a hair care formulation. Besides the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention and this formulation, the invention also relates to the preparation of the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Thus, the invention provides a method of preparing an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound, and comprising:

• the preparation of a hydrophilic continuous phase comprising:

- from 90 to 99.6% by weight of the hydrophilic phase of at least one hydrophilic compound and - from 0.4 to 10% by weight of the hydrophilic phase of at least one emulsifying polymer (P) prepared by at least one polymerization reaction:

(a2) at least one C ₁ -C ₇ ester of a compound derived from an acid chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid and crotonic acid,

• the preparation of a lipophilic phase comprising at least one lipophilic compound and at least one anti-UV agent chosen from an organic sunscreen, mineral particles and their combinations, then

• the addition with stirring and in the absence of surfactant compound of the lipophilic phase in the hydrophilic phase.

Particularly advantageously according to the invention and thanks to the emulsifying nature of the polymer (P), the anti-UV cosmetic composition is prepared in the absence of a surface-active compound usually used during the preparation of compositions of oil type. state of the art in-water. The preparation of the composition according to the invention is carried out in the absence of an amphiphilic compound.

Preferably, the addition is carried out at a temperature ranging from 10 to 90 ° C or from 15 to 75 ° C or at room temperature.

Also preferably, the preparation method according to the invention also comprises adjusting the final pH of the composition. Preferably, the pH is adjusted to a value ranging from 4 to 13 or from 4 to 12 or from 4 to 11. More preferably, the pH is adjusted to a value ranging from 5 to 13 or from 5 to 12 or from 5 to 11. 11. Much more preferably, the pH is adjusted to a value ranging from 6 to 13 or from 6 to 12 or from 6 to 11.

During the preparation of the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention, the addition of the lipophilic phase in the hydrophilic phase is carried out with stirring, preferably with stirring by means of a device producing a shear gradient ranging from 500 at 10,000 s ¹ .

According to the invention, the particular, advantageous or preferred characteristics of the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention define preparation methods according to the invention which are also particular, advantageous or preferred. Furthermore, the invention also relates to the use of the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention or else to the use of the formulation according to the invention.

Preferably, the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended to be applied to the skin. More preferably, the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention is applied from 1 to 6 times per day, in particular to the face and parts of the body exposed to light or to sunlight.

Particularly advantageously, the polymer (P) used according to the invention makes it possible to control the transfer of the anti-UV agent into a hydrophobic substrate such as the skin. Thus, during the application of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, optionally followed by leaching, the anti-UV agent of the composition does not penetrate into the hydrophobic substrate.

The invention provides a method of controlling the penetration into a hydrophobic substrate of an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound, comprising:

- the preparation of an anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention then

- the application of this composition on a hydrophobic substrate, optionally

- the final leaching of the hydrophobic substrate.

Generally, during its application to a hydrophobic substrate, a cosmetic composition is transferred into this hydrophobic substrate. The amount of composition remaining on the surface of the hydrophobic substrate is then reduced.

Thanks to the polymer (P) according to the invention, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a high resistance to transfer into a hydrophobic substrate.

The invention also provides a method of controlling or reducing the transfer of an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound, into a hydrophobic substrate comprising:

- the application of this composition on a hydrophobic substrate, optionally

- the final leaching of the hydrophobic substrate.

According to the invention, the particular, advantageous or preferred characteristics of the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention define methods for controlling the penetration or for controlling or reducing the transfer of an anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention which are also particular, advantageous or preferred. According to the invention, the control of the penetration of the anti-UV agent is carried out by implementing a method (M) comprising successively the steps:

- spreading on a hydrophobic substrate (parafilm) of the anti-UV cosmetic composition using a 200 μm wedge (Elcometer model 3540), - drying for 4 hours at room temperature of the substrate,

- manual cleaning of the surface of the coated substrate using an aqueous solution containing 10% liquid soap,

- rinsing the surface of the substrate with mains water,

- drying of the substrate by dabbing lightly with a sheet of paper towel,

- placement of the substrate in a UV enclosure (Datacolor Tru-Vue2),

- photograph of the substrate (Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX20V camera) and

- image analysis and processing using ImageJ software (2011).

The distribution of the gray levels of the pixels in the image corresponds to the amount of anti-UV agent that has penetrated the hydrophobic substrate. The value 0 corresponds to black and the maximum penetration while the value 255 corresponds to white and zero penetration of the substrate by the anti-UV agent. A value V50 is determined which corresponds to the gray level of an analyzed substrate area (540x720 pixels) for which 50% of the pixels are lighter and 50% of the pixels are darker, rounded to the nearest whole number. Thus, the invention provides a control or reduction method according to the invention for which the V50 value of penetration or transfer of the anti-UV cosmetic composition is less than 150 measured according to method (M) according to the invention and detailed in the examples.

The invention also provides a method of cosmetic treatment by means of an anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention or else by means of a formulation according to the invention or else by means of a composition prepared according to the method of preparation of an anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention. The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention comprises the application to a hydrophobic substrate, in particular the application to the skin, of this composition or of this formulation, optionally followed by leaching of the hydrophobic substrate.

According to the invention, the particular, advantageous or preferred characteristics of the anti-UV cosmetic composition according to the invention define cosmetic treatment methods according to the invention which are also particular, advantageous or preferred. The examples which follow make it possible to illustrate the various aspects of the invention. EXAMPLES

The following abbreviations are used:

• AMA: methacrylic acid,

• AE: ethyl acrylate,

• AMPS: 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic,

• diallyl phthalate (DAP),

• Polyglykol B 11/50 from Clariant: ethylene oxide-propylene oxide-monobutyl ether,

• Empicol LXVN from Huntsmann: sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS),

• Texapon NS0 from BASF: ammonium laureth sulfate in 28% solution or ammonium lauryl ether sulfate in 28% solution (SLES),

• sodium persulfate (NFDiSiOx, sodium metabisulfite NaiSiOs,

• (Cie / Cis-alkyl linear and 25 times ethoxylated) methacrylate (monomer (a6)).

Example 1: preparation of polymers (PI), (P2), (P3) and (P4) according to the invention according to a semi-batch process

In a 1 L reactor stirred and heated using an oil bath, mixture 1 is prepared by introducing deionized water and a solution of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or an aqueous solution containing 28%. mass of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES), optionally ethylene oxide-propylene oxide-monobutyl ether (B 11/50) and optionally the monomer (a3), 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS).

A mixture 2, called a pre-mixture of monomers, comprising in deionized water is prepared in a beaker:

• monomer (al), methacrylic acid (AM A),

• monomer (a2), ethyl acrylate (AE),

• monomer (a5), diallyl phthalate,

• optionally monomer (a3), AMPS,

• optionally 28% solution of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) or sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), • optionally associative monomer (a6) of formula (III), methacrylate-OE25-C _ΐό / C i s-linear alkyl,

• optionally a transfer agent, n-dodecyl mercaptan. This premix is stirred to form a monomeric mixture.

An initiator solution is prepared comprising ammonium persulfate and deionized water and optionally sodium metabisulfite. All the reagents and amounts used are presented in Table 1.

For the polymers (PI), (P2) and (P4) implemented according to the invention, the reactor is heated to a temperature of 85 ° C ± 1 ° C, the solution of initiator as well as the premix of monomers. Baked for 30 min at a temperature of 85 ° C ± 1 ° C. The whole is then cooled to room temperature.

For the polymer (P3) used according to the invention, the reactor is heated to a temperature of 74 ° C ± 1 ° C, the initiator solution is completely injected as soon as the reactor temperature is reached and is injected for 2 hours the premix of monomers. Baked for 30 min at a temperature of 74 ° C ± 1 ° C. The whole is then cooled to room temperature.

The polymers according to the invention were prepared under these conditions by varying the monomer compositions of the monomer premixes. The compositions of the copolymers obtained are presented in Table 1.

Table 1

Example 2: preparation and evaluation of anti-UV cosmetic compositions (Cl to C4) according to the invention and comparative anti-UV cosmetic compositions (CCI to

CC3)

In a beaker, the hydrophilic phase is prepared by mixing, with stirring using an Ika or Rayneri blade stirrer and motor, deionized water, butylene glycol, disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic diacid (NaiEDTA), phenylbenzimidazole acid sulfonic acid (PBSA, Parsol HS) and a polymer (PI) or (P2) or (P3) or (P4) according to the invention or else a surfactant compound alone or in combination with a polymer rheology modifier. The pH is adjusted to a value of 7 ± 0.5 by adding a 20% sodium hydroxide solution in water.

The hydrophilic phase of the compositions according to the invention and of the comparative compositions is prepared with stirring at 700-1000 rev / min (except for the CCI composition at 1600-2000 rev / min).

The rheology modifying polymer of comparative examples (CC2) and (CC3) is Rheostyl UP (Coatex - INCI: acrylate copolymer).

The comparative compositions (CCI), (CC2) and (CC3) comprise a surface-active compound (Seppic, Oramix CG 110 - INCI: Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside).

The lipophilic compounds of the lipophilic phase are:

• Cetiol B (INCI: dibutyl adipate),

• Dicaprylyl carbonate (INCI: dicaprylyl carbonate),

• Parsol 340 (INCI: octocrylene),

• Parsol MCX (INCI: ethylhexyl cinnamate) and

• Parsol 1789 (INCI: avobenzone).

The other compounds added afterwards are:

• Parsol 50 TX AB (INCI: titanium dioxide with silica and dimethicone),

• Bioxan E 1000UI (INCI: tocopheryl acetate),

• Phenoxyethanol (INCI: phenoxyethanol) and

• Coconut fragrance (INCI: fragrance).

The ingredients and amounts are detailed in Tables 2 and 3, as well as the characteristics and properties of the anti-UV cosmetic compositions obtained.

The Brookfield viscosity is measured at 6 rpm and at 25 ° C.

To evaluate the transfer of the anti-UV cosmetic composition comprising anti-UV filters onto a hydrophobic substrate, a support having characteristics which are similar but more restrictive than those of the skin is used. Indeed, the hydrophobic substrate used is more hydrophobic than the skin and will therefore allow easier penetration of anti-UV agents. In addition and unlike the skin, the hydrophobic substrate used is not porous, so it will allow more difficult penetration of anti-UV agents.

The composition is spread on a parafilm (Bemis flexible packaging) using a 200 μm wedge (Elcometer model 3540) and allowed to dry for 4 hours at room temperature.

Then, the surface of the coated parafilm is manually cleaned with an aqueous solution containing 10% liquid soap, then it is rinsed with mains water before drying it by dabbing lightly with a sheet of paper towel. all. The parafilm is then placed in a UV enclosure (Datacolor Tru-Vue2) and a photo of the parafilm is taken (Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX20V camera) and analyzed using ImageJ software (2011).

The darker the parafilm obtained, the more transfer of the anti-UV cosmetic composition and of the anti-UV agent. Image processing is used to define the distribution of the gray levels of the pixels in the image (from 0 which corresponds to black to 255 which corresponds to white). The value V50 corresponds to the gray level for which half of the pixels are lighter and the other half darker. The results obtained are presented in Tables 2 and 3.

Table 2

Table 3

Very surprisingly, it is observed that the anti-UV cosmetic compositions according to the invention allow better resistance to the penetration of anti-UV agents into the hydrophobic substrate than the comparative compositions. It can be seen that this resistance to penetration is not related to the associativity of the polymer or that it is not related to the crosslinking of the polymer.

The best resistance to the penetration of anti-UV agents into the hydrophobic substrate of the compositions according to the invention does not depend on the viscosity of the composition or on its suspensive properties. It does not depend on the use of an associative monomer during the preparation of the polymer (P) used.

Thus, the polymers (PI), (P2), (P3) and (P4) according to the invention make it possible to prepare anti-UV cosmetic compositions which greatly limit the transfers of anti-UV agents to hydrophobic substrates. Furthermore, the use of a surfactant compound in comparative cosmetic compositions does not make it possible to obtain an anti-UV cosmetic composition which greatly limits the transfers of lipophilic anti-UV agents to hydrophobic substrates.

The anti-UV cosmetic compositions according to the invention therefore provide double protection: they protect against UV radiation and they greatly limit the transfer of anti-UV agents.

Claims

1. Anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion prepared in the absence of surfactant compound, and comprising:

- from 90 to 99.6% by weight of the hydrophilic phase, of at least one hydrophilic compound and

- from 0.4 to 10% by weight of the hydrophilic phase, of at least one emulsifying polymer (P) prepared by at least one polymerization reaction:

2. Composition according to claim 1 comprising from 1 to 70% by weight or from 5 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 65% by weight or from 5 to 65% by weight, also more preferably from 1 to 60%. by weight or from 5 to 60% by weight, of dispersed lipophilic phase, relative to the total amount by weight of continuous hydrophilic phase and of dispersed lipophilic phase.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2 for which the lipophilic phase comprises at least one lipophilic compound chosen from fatty acids, fatty alcohols, esters, butters, waxes (for example beeswax) , oils, preferably an oil chosen from mineral oils (for example paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, mineral oils having a boiling point ranging from 300 to 400 ° C), oils from animal origin (e.g. squalenes, squalane, perhydrosqu alene), oils vegetable oil (e.g. sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, 'olive, castor oil, grain germ oils, liquid shea butter fraction), unsaponifiable compounds from natural oils, synthetic oils (e.g. hydrogenated polyisobutene, fatty acid esters such as purcellin oil, butyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, 'octyl, isocetyl stearate, decyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid such as disopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, acetylglycerides, alcohol octanoates, polyalcohol octanoates, alcohol decanoates, polyalcohol decanoates, especially octanoates glycol, glycerol octanoates, glycol decanoates, glycerol decanoates, alcohol ricinoleates, polyalcohol ricinoleates), terpenes, polyterpenes, phytosterol, silicone oils (for example cyclomethicones, polydimethylsiloxanes) low molecular weight or silicone oils, high molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes or silicone gums, polymethylsiloxanes, dimethiconols, phenylated polydimethylsiloxanes, low molecular weight siloxanols, high molecular weight siloxanols, trimethylsiloxysilicates), oils fluorinated (eg fluorinated perfluoroethers and fluorosilicones).

4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3 for which the anti-UV agent is chosen from:

- lipophilic anti-UV agents, preferably chosen from avobenzone, ethylhexyltriazone, benzophenone-3, octocrylene, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-4, ethylhexylsalicylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, octyl-N, N-dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl PABA, dimethyl PABA ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolphenyltetramazyl, methylene bis-benzotriazolphenyltetramazylbutyl, methylenexyloxyphenol triazone, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, polysilicone-15, tris biphenyl triazine, homomenthyl salicylate, PEG-25 PABA, lipophilic cosmetic active molecules, water-soluble cosmetic active molecules, and their combinations,

- their combinations, in particular the combinations of titanium dioxide particles and at least one organic sunscreen.

5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4 for which the hydrophilic compound is chosen from water alone or as a mixture with at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic anti-UV agents, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycols, for example propylene glycol, butylene glycol, humectant compounds, for example humectant compounds for cosmetic composition, derivatives of sugars, for example xylytol, maltilol.

6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5 having:

• a pH greater than 4, preferably greater than 5, more preferably greater than 6 or 6.5 or

• a pH less than 13, preferably less than 12, more preferably less than 11 or

• a pH ranging from 4 to 13 or from 4 to 12 or from 4 to 11, preferably ranging from 5 to 13 or from 5 to 12 or from 5 to 11, more preferably ranging from 6 to 13 or from 6 to 12 or from 6 to 11, also more preferably ranging from 6.5 to 13 or from 6.5 to 12 or from 6.5 to 11.

7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6 for which:

• the monomer (al) is chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, a salt of acrylic acid, a salt of methacrylic acid, a salt of maleic acid, a salt of maleic anhydride, a salt of itaconic acid, a salt of crotonic acid and their combinations, much more preferably chosen from acrylic acid, a salt of acrylic acid , methacrylic acid, a salt of methacrylic acid and combinations thereof or

• the monomer (a2) is a C _I -C _Ô ester or a C ₁ -C ₄ ester or is a C ₁ -C ₇ ester of acrylic acid or a C ₁ -C ₇ ester of methacrylic acid, preferably chosen from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, methyl acrylate butyl, ethylhexyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl methacrylate and their combinations, more preferably ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and their combinations or

• the monomer (al) is chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, a salt of acrylic acid, a salt of methacrylic acid, a salt of maleic acid, a salt of maleic anhydride, a salt of itaconic acid, a salt of crotonic acid and their combinations, much more preferably acrylic acid or methacrylic acid; and the monomer (a2) is a C ₁ -C _Ô ester OR a C1-C4 ester or is a C1-C7 ester of acrylic acid or a C1-C7 ester of methacrylic acid, preferably selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, ethylhexyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, propyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethylhexyl methacrylate and their combinations, more preferably ethyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate and their combinations or

• the polymerization reaction uses:

8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7 for which the hydrophilic phase comprises from 0.4 to 9% by weight or from 0.4 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight or from 0.5 to 9% by weight or from 0.5 to 8% by weight or again from 0.6 to 10% by weight or from 0.6 to 9% by weight or from 0.6 to 8% by weight , of polymer (P) relative to the amount of hydrophilic phase.

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8 for which the polymer (P) is prepared by a polymerization reaction also implementing:

(a3) at least one compound selected from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, ethoxymethacrylate sulfonic acid, sodium methallyl sulfonate, styrene phosphated hydroxyethyl-acrylate sulfonate, phosphated hydroxypropyl-acrylate, phosphated hydroxyethylhexyl-acrylate, phosphated hydroxyethyl-methacrylate, phosphated hydroxypropyl-methacrylate, phosphated hydroxyethylhexyl-methacrylate, their salts and combinations thereof, preferably less than 20 mol%, preferably of 0, 2 to 20 mol%, in particular 0.5 to 10 mol%, of monomer (a3) relative to the total molar amount of monomers, or

(a4) at least one compound chosen from hydroxyethyl-acrylate, hydroxypropyl-acrylate, hydroxyethylhexyl-acrylate, hydroxyethyl-methacrylate, hydroxypropyl-methacrylate, hydroxyethylhexyl-methacrylate, preferably less than 20% molar, preferably from 0.2 to 20% molar, in particular 0.5 to 10 mol%, of monomer (a4) relative to the total molar amount of monomers or

(a5) at least one crosslinking monomer or at least one monomer comprising at least two olefinic unsaturations, preferably less than 5 mol%, preferably from 0.01 to 4 mol%, in particular from 0.02 to 4 mol% or from 0.02 to 2 mol%, in particular from 0.02 to 1 mol%, of monomer (a5) relative to the total molar quantity of monomers or

(a6) at least one associative monomer, preferably chosen from a compound of formula (III):

R ¹ - (OE) _m - (OP) „- R ² (III) in which:

- m and n, identical or different, independently represent 0 or an integer or decimal less than 150, m or n is different from 0,

- EO independently represents a CH2CH2O group,

- R ¹ represents an acrylate group or a methacrylate group and

- R ² represents a _{linear or branched C 6} -C40-alkyl group, a phenyl group, a polyphenyl group, preferably a Cio-C30-alkyl group, linear or branched, more preferably a C12-C22-alkyl group, linear or branched, or a group comprising 2 to 5 phenyls or a tristyrylphenyl group or a pentastyrylcumylphenyl group, preferably less than 20 mol%, preferably from 0.05 to 20 mol%, in particular from 0.1 to 10 mol%, of monomer (a6) relative to the total molar quantity of monomers.

10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9 for which:

• the polymer (P) is totally or partially neutralized, preferably by means of at least one compound chosen from NaOH, KOH, ammonium derivatives, ammonia, amino bases, for example triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol or 2-amino-2-methyl- propanol (AMP) and their combinations or

• the polymer (P) is totally or partially coacervated, preferably:

- By reducing the pH, for example by reducing the pH to a value less than 6.5, in particular by means of an acidic compound, in particular by means of at least one organic or inorganic acidic compound, in particular a chosen acid compound from phosphoric acid, citric acid, glucono-lactone, lactic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, glutamic acid, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, D-gluconic acid, sulfonic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzimidazole-sulfonic acid, tartaric acid, 4-aminobenzoic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, kojic acid, hyaluronic acid or

- By increasing the ionic strength, for example by adding at least one ionized compound or at least one salt, in particular NaCl, KC1, MgCk, CaCk, MgSCk, CaS0 ₄ , or by addition of phenylbenzimidazole acid sulfonic acid (PBSA) or sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid (NaPCA) or by addition of at least one ionized organic sunscreen.

11. Formulation chosen from a sun protection formulation, a makeup formulation, a skin care formulation and a hair care formulation, comprising at least one anti-UV cosmetic composition according to one of the claims

1 to 10.

12. Method for preparing an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound, and comprising: · the preparation of a hydrophilic continuous phase comprising:

13. Preparation method according to claim 12:

• for which the addition is carried out at a temperature ranging from 10 to 90 ° C or from 15 to 75 ° C or at room temperature or else

• also comprising the adjustment of the final pH of the composition, preferably the adjustment to a pH ranging from 4 to 13 or from 4 to 12 or from 4 to 11, more preferably at a pH ranging from 5 to 13 or from 5 at 12 or from 5 to 11, much more preferably at a pH ranging from 6 to 13 or from 6 to 12 or from 6 to 11.

14. Preparation method according to one of claims 12 or 13 for which the anti-UV cosmetic composition is defined according to one of claims 1 to 10.

15. A method of controlling the penetration into a hydrophobic substrate of an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound, comprising:

- the preparation of an anti-UV cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 then

- the application of this composition on a hydrophobic substrate, optionally

- the final leaching of the hydrophobic substrate.

16. A method of controlling or reducing the transfer of an anti-UV cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion prepared in the absence of a surfactant compound, in a hydrophobic substrate comprising:

- the application of this composition on a hydrophobic substrate, optionally

- the final leaching of the hydrophobic substrate.

17. Control or reduction method according to one of claims 15 and 16 for which the V50 value of penetration or transfer of the anti-UV cosmetic composition is less than 150 measured according to method (M) described in the description.

18. Method of cosmetic treatment by means of an anti-UV cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 or by means of a formulation according to claim 11 or else by means of a composition prepared according to the method according to l 'One of claims 12 to 14, comprising the application to a hydrophobic substrate, in particular the application to the skin, of this composition or of this formulation, optionally followed by leaching of the hydrophobic substrate.