EP3991592A1 - Geschliffener stein für schmuck- oder juwelierartikel oder uhr - Google Patents

Geschliffener stein für schmuck- oder juwelierartikel oder uhr Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3991592A1
EP3991592A1 EP21202361.8A EP21202361A EP3991592A1 EP 3991592 A1 EP3991592 A1 EP 3991592A1 EP 21202361 A EP21202361 A EP 21202361A EP 3991592 A1 EP3991592 A1 EP 3991592A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
girdle
cut
plane
jewellery
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP21202361.8A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3991592B1 (de
Inventor
Bastien Charrier
Abrahan RODRIGUEZ CASAL
Gregory Bruttin
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Richemont International SA
Original Assignee
Richemont International SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Richemont International SA filed Critical Richemont International SA
Publication of EP3991592A1 publication Critical patent/EP3991592A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3991592B1 publication Critical patent/EP3991592B1/de
Active legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • G—PHYSICS
    • G04—HOROLOGY
    • G04B—MECHANICALLY-DRIVEN CLOCKS OR WATCHES; MECHANICAL PARTS OF CLOCKS OR WATCHES IN GENERAL; TIME PIECES USING THE POSITION OF THE SUN, MOON OR STARS
    • G04B47/00—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece
    • G04B47/04—Time-pieces combined with other articles which do not interfere with the running or the time-keeping of the time-piece with attached ornaments or amusement apparatus
    • G04B47/042—Fastening of jewels and the like

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of jewelery and jewellery, including that of watchmaking. It relates, more particularly, to a cut stone having a particular shape.
  • the document EP3090644 reveals cut stones that are girdle domed to follow the shape of a hemisphere, which is not optimal for setting on a planar surface.
  • the document EP2412266 reveals cut stones with a domed upper surface, which are free of girdle.
  • the document CN109349752 reveals cut stones that are not particularly suited to be set to follow a more or less curved shape in a plane parallel to that of the girdle of the stones.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to provide a cut stone in which the aforementioned defects are at least partially overcome.
  • Said cut stone is elongated in shape and comprises a section, considered in the plane of said girdle, which is defined by a pair of side edges as well as by a pair of end edges linking said side edges to each other, the latter being defined as being the longest edges.
  • At least one of the lateral edges is of convex or concave shape, considered in said plane of said girdle, this shape being able to follow a smooth curve or being able to be faceted, consisting of straight sections (or even curves) meeting at one or more edges.
  • the cut stones are capable of being crimped on a piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking according to a more or less curved shape on their exterior and/or on their interior, by minimizing the number of stones to be crimped , while maintaining good scintillation and visual appearance.
  • the crown comprises a main surface, that is to say the surface which occupies the majority of the surface of the crown, which is planar and is parallel to the plane of said girdle.
  • one of the side edges is convex and the other is concave, these two edges preferably being curved in shape in the plane of said girdle and each having a corresponding predetermined radius.
  • the cut stone is shaped like a curved rod in its plane.
  • each of said rays can be defined with respect to a single common point of origin.
  • the side edges are coaxial and thus define a ring segment stone.
  • the extensions of said end edges are parallel or intersect with said common point of origin or at a point different from said common point of origin, for example at a point which is opposite the convex side edge.
  • the length of the concave side edge is greater than that of the convex side edge.
  • the length/width ratio of said stone, considered in the plane of said girdle is greater than two, preferably greater than three.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of jewellery, jewelery or timepieces comprising at least one cut stone, preferably a plurality of cut stones, as defined above.
  • a bezel for a timepiece comprising at least one cut stone, preferably a plurality of cut stones, as defined above
  • the figures 1a to 1c illustrate one embodiment of a cut stone 1 according to the invention.
  • This cut stone 1 comprises a cylinder head 3 intended to be located at least partially in a support provided in a piece of jewellery, jewelery or watchmaking (10, see picture 3 ), a crown 5 intended to be visible to the user, for example by being at least partially outside of said support, as well as a girdle 7, forming an interface between the yoke 3 and the crown, intended to be crimped by the support if the latter is of conventional shape.
  • Other solutions for fixing the stone 1 in the support are known to those skilled in the art and should therefore not be described in detail.
  • the stone 1 is in the shape of a rod modified with respect to a conventional rod shape (that is to say rectilinear) in a plane P which contains the girdle 7 and which is parallel to the main surface 5a, it that is to say the upper surface of the crown 5, which occupies the majority of the free surface of the latter.
  • This section is defined by a pair of side edges 9a, 9b as well as two end edges 11a, 11b which link the two side edges 9a, 9b (which are the longest edges).
  • the length L - width W ratio of the cut stone 1 is preferably greater than two, more preferably greater than three, considered in the plane P.
  • the girdle 7 is planar, and is delimited by two planes P1, P2 parallel to the plane P and located on either side of the latter (whose outer edges have been indicated by reference signs). Consequently, it is not curved in one or more directions perpendicular to the plane P.
  • the main surface 5a of the crown 5 is preferably also planar, being parallel to the plane P and is therefore not curved. either in one or more directions perpendicular to the plane P.
  • At least one, preferably each, of the side edges 9a, 9b is convex or concave, the at least one side edge 9a, 9b which is convex or concave being able to follow a smooth curve without discontinuities or alternatively which can be faceted, formed of straight or curved sections connected by one or more more or less pointed edges.
  • one of the side edges 9a, 9b is concave and the other is convex, but it is also possible that one of the side edges 9a, 9b is concave or convex and the other side edge 9a, 9b could be straight.
  • the side edges 9a, 9b follow coaxial circular arcs having a radius R1 and a radius R2 respectively and therefore define a concave side edge 9a as well as a convex side edge 9b.
  • These rays have a unique and common point of origin O, such that the cut stone 1 follows a shape in section of a circular ring.
  • the rays R1 and R2 may have different origins, which has the effect that the tangents to the side edges 9a, 9b are not mutually parallel if they are considered orthogonally to a given radius.
  • the rays R1 and R2 are typically aligned and intersect a midpoint on one of the side edges 9a, 9b, this midpoint being preferably halfway along said edge 9a, 9b.
  • the radii R1, R2 can be varied to create cut stone 1 shapes that follow sections of an oval ring, another more complicated curved shape, or even a faceted shape with straight or curved sections that join at one or more more or less pointed edges, as mentioned above.
  • End edges 11a, 11b may or may not be mutually symmetrical, and may or may not be mutually parallel.
  • the concave side edge 9a (inner) is longer than the convex side edge 9b (outer), and the extensions of the two end edges 11a, 11b intersect at a point located on the outer side of the stone. 1, that is to say that the point of intersection is opposite the convex side edge 9b.
  • the point of intersection can be anywhere, for example coinciding with the origin point O.
  • this shape is of the so-called “baguette diamond” type, the yoke 3 of which has a trapezoidal section, the crown 5 has a stacked double trapezoid section, while the girdle 7 has a rectangular shape.
  • baguette diamond the yoke 3 of which has a trapezoidal section
  • the crown 5 has a stacked double trapezoid section
  • the girdle 7 has a rectangular shape.
  • other forms known in the art are also possible.
  • the figures 2a to 2c illustrate another embodiment of a cut stone 1 according to the invention, the cross-section of which is more of a so-called "emerald" shape, comprising a bevelled trapezoid crown 5 and a yoke comprising two trapezoidal sections as well as a lower part pointed with triangular section. All the other aspects of cut stone 1 remain the same as those described in the context of the figures 1a to 1c and therefore need not be repeated here.
  • the cut stones 1 described above are particularly suitable for integration into a piece of jewellery, jewelery or timepieces of circular, oval or similar shape, and make it possible to decorate a length and/or a width of its visible surface with a reduced number of cut stones.
  • its bezel 13 can be set over its entire upper surface, for example, with twelve (as illustrated), six, four, three or even two cut stones 1, while retaining the effect enhanced scintillation that cut stones impart over, for example, sapphire, glass or the like plates.
  • the bezel 13 can be secured to, or rotatably mounted on, the middle 15 of the watch case, and may or may not carry a crystal 17 as generally known.
  • the material of the cut stones 1 can for example be made of diamond, corundum, sapphire, ruby, spinel or the like, whether natural or synthetic.
EP21202361.8A 2020-10-28 2021-10-13 Geschliffener stein für schmuck- oder juwelierartikel oder uhr Active EP3991592B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH01388/20A CH717995A1 (fr) 2020-10-28 2020-10-28 Pierre taillée pour pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3991592A1 true EP3991592A1 (de) 2022-05-04
EP3991592B1 EP3991592B1 (de) 2024-01-03

Family

ID=73834130

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP21202361.8A Active EP3991592B1 (de) 2020-10-28 2021-10-13 Geschliffener stein für schmuck- oder juwelierartikel oder uhr

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3991592B1 (de)
CH (1) CH717995A1 (de)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2412266A2 (de) 2010-07-29 2012-02-01 Firestone Inc. Mehrfacetten-Edelstein für ein Juwelelement mit mehreren Steinen
EP3090644A1 (de) 2015-05-07 2016-11-09 D. Swarovski KG Schmuckelement
CN109349752A (zh) 2018-11-07 2019-02-19 王松光 一种苹果形钻石及其加工方法
EP3771948A1 (de) * 2019-07-31 2021-02-03 Omega SA Zifferblatt für uhr

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2412266A2 (de) 2010-07-29 2012-02-01 Firestone Inc. Mehrfacetten-Edelstein für ein Juwelelement mit mehreren Steinen
EP3090644A1 (de) 2015-05-07 2016-11-09 D. Swarovski KG Schmuckelement
CN109349752A (zh) 2018-11-07 2019-02-19 王松光 一种苹果形钻石及其加工方法
EP3771948A1 (de) * 2019-07-31 2021-02-03 Omega SA Zifferblatt für uhr

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
BARRETT CARLA: "Hands-On: The Rolex Rainbow Daytona In Everose Gold - HODINKEE", 23 April 2018 (2018-04-23), XP055784522, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-rainbow-daytona-everose-gold-hands-on> [retrieved on 20210311] *
THE WATCH COMPANY: "Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches: Some Good Things Truly Last - The Watch Company", 10 April 2020 (2020-04-10), XP055784542, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.thewatchcompany.com/blog/best-patek-philippe-nautilus-watches/> [retrieved on 20210311] *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CH717995A1 (fr) 2022-04-29
EP3991592B1 (de) 2024-01-03

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