EP3946215A1 - Composition cosmétique filmogène pelable - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique filmogène pelable

Info

Publication number
EP3946215A1
EP3946215A1 EP20713305.9A EP20713305A EP3946215A1 EP 3946215 A1 EP3946215 A1 EP 3946215A1 EP 20713305 A EP20713305 A EP 20713305A EP 3946215 A1 EP3946215 A1 EP 3946215A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition according
starch
chosen
film
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP20713305.9A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Julie JAMIN
Sarah SEBBAN ZNATY
Flavie MAIRE-AMIOT
Stéphane BUREAU
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Roquette Freres SA
Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS
Original Assignee
Roquette Freres SA
Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Roquette Freres SA, Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS filed Critical Roquette Freres SA
Publication of EP3946215A1 publication Critical patent/EP3946215A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212—Face masks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/608—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a film-forming cosmetic composition
  • a film-forming cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous continuous phase, at least one legume starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, at least two plasticizers chosen from polyols and 'water.
  • the invention also relates to the use of such a composition for forming, on keratin materials, a peelable film.
  • the film-forming compositions are intended to be applied, with or without an applicator, to tissues such as the skin, integuments (the nails or the hair), the mucous membranes so as to form a homogeneous film on these tissues. They are generally fluid on application and conventionally contain a film-forming polymer dissolved in a volatile solvent, typically water or an alcohol. Evaporation of the solvent allows the formation of a solid protective film during the drying of the composition.
  • a volatile solvent typically water or an alcohol.
  • the film-forming compositions must have a controlled texture, sufficiently fluid to be able to be applied to the desired area, whatever its size, and to form a uniform film thereon, but also thick enough to remain on the area of application during drying time without running, to form, after drying, a film having an appropriate thickness.
  • peel-off masks are aqueous film-forming compositions based on polyvinyl alcohol.
  • the peel masks dry, after application to the face, to give a film which is removed by peeling.
  • the occlusive effect of the mask allows the horny layer (or stratum corneum) to moisten and soften, which can promote the penetration of active ingredients when they are present in the composition.
  • these masks when they are removed by peeling, provide a “peeling”, in particular causing the dead cells of the horny surface layers. They can also eliminate comedones and blackheads.
  • the peelable film-forming compositions may be of play value and / or to facilitate make-up removal. They are, for example, developed in the field of nail varnishes.
  • Peel-off compositions today use synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) or polyvinyl acetate (PVA).
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • PVA polyvinyl acetate
  • consumers are increasingly looking for cosmetic products composed mainly of natural ingredients or of natural origin, with the minimum of chemical modifications.
  • the elimination of synthetic functional ingredients, or their substitution by ingredients of natural origin, constitutes an important axis of development of new cosmetic products.
  • the introduction of these new natural ingredients or of natural origin may be accompanied by a degradation of the properties of the cosmetic product, in terms of its appearance, its application or its cosmetic properties. These insufficient or degraded cosmetic properties are detrimental to the image of the product.
  • the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that by combining a very specific legume starch with a plasticizer system of particular nature, namely comprising at least two polyols, it was possible to produce film-forming cosmetic compositions making it possible to form, on the keratin materials, a continuous, homogeneous, comfortable film having an acceptable drying time and sufficient breaking strength to be able to be peeled off.
  • the complete elimination of the composition can be done with water.
  • a drying time of less than 20 minutes, preferably between 5 and 15 minutes is acceptable.
  • a drying time of less than 10 minutes, preferably less than 5 minutes is acceptable.
  • a subject of the invention is thus, according to a first aspect, a film-forming cosmetic composition
  • a film-forming cosmetic composition comprising, in an aqueous continuous phase:
  • At least one legume starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%
  • the polyols are present in a content ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a process for preparing such a composition, comprising:
  • a further subject of the invention is a process for making up or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the lips, such a film-forming cosmetic composition.
  • the subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a composition as described above for forming, on keratin materials, a peelable film.
  • composition according to the invention has an aqueous continuous phase.
  • it is in the form of an aqueous gel.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one legume starch having an amylose content of greater than or equal to 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%.
  • amylose content is in a range from 30% to 75%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and more preferably from 35% to 42%.
  • the percentages of amylose are expressed by dry weight, relative to the dry weight of starch, and determined before any subsequent treatment such as hydrolysis and / or alkylation of said starch.
  • Leguminous starch also has a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25 ° C at 20% dry matter of between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.s, most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.s, and even more preferably around 150 mPa.s.
  • the Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25 ° C at 20% by weight of dry matter is preferably between 10 and 10,000 mPa.s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.s, most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.s, and even more preferably around 150 mPa.s.
  • These Brookfield viscosity variants can be combined with the amylose content variants.
  • the viscosity within the meaning of the present invention is a Brookfield viscosity determined by means for example of a Brookfield RDVD-I + viscometer (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, INC. Middleboro, MA, USA) using one of the pins referenced RV1, RV2 , RV3, RV4, RV5, RV6 or RV7 and without using the equipment called "Helipath Stand".
  • the spindle rotation is set at 20 revolutions per minute.
  • the spindle, from RV1 to RV7, is chosen so that the displayed viscosity value is between 10% and 100% of the total viscosity scale possible with said spindle, as indicated by the manufacturer.
  • leg within the meaning of the present invention is meant any plant belonging to the Caesalpiniaceae, Mimosaceae or Papilionaceae families and in particular any plant belonging to the Papilionaceae family such as, for example, peas, beans, broad bean, faba bean, lentil, or lupine.
  • the legume starch can be chosen from pea starches, chickpea starches, bean starches, bean starches, bean starches, or lentil starches.
  • the legume starch is a pea starch, and most preferably a starch from Pisum sativum.
  • the legume starch can be a native pregelatinized starch, or a chemically modified starch, optionally pregelatinized.
  • the chemically modified legume starches can be chosen from legume starches which have undergone at least one chemical modification, preferably at least two chemical modifications, chosen from hydroxyalkylations, carboalkylations, hydrolyses, dextrinifications, succinylation, alkylation , acetylation, cationization, anionization.
  • These chemical modifications are modifications of stabilization of the starch of legumes, in other words of stabilization of the viscosity in aqueous solution, in that they make it possible to reduce or eliminate the retrogradation of a gel or of an aqueous solution of said starch.
  • the modified leguminous starch used in the context of the present invention can be a hydroxyalkylated, carboxyalkylated, hydrolyzed legume starch, a dextrin, or a combination thereof.
  • the legume starch used in the context of the present invention is a hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated legume starch.
  • the legume starch used in the context of the present invention is a hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated legume starch.
  • hydroxypropylated legume starch is understood to mean a legume starch substituted with hydroxypropyl groups by any technique known to those skilled in the art, for example by etherification reaction with the oxide of propylene.
  • a hydroxypropylated legume starch preferably has a content of hydroxypropyl groups of between 0.1 and 20% by dry weight, relative to the dry weight of hydroxypropyl starch, preferably between 1 and 10. % by weight, more preferably between 5 and 9% by weight, and in particular close to 7% by weight. This content is in particular determined by proton Nuclear Magnetic Resonance spectrometry, in particular according to standard EN ISO 1 1543: 2002 F.
  • hydrolyzed legume starch means a legume starch which has undergone a hydrolysis operation, that is to say an operation aimed at reducing its average molecular weight.
  • a hydrolysis operation that is to say an operation aimed at reducing its average molecular weight.
  • Those skilled in the art know how to obtain such starches, for example by chemical treatments such as oxidation and acid treatments, or else by enzymatic treatments.
  • Those skilled in the art will naturally adjust the level of hydrolysis, and therefore of starch fluidization, depending on the desired viscosity.
  • a hydrolyzed legume starch and optionally pre-gelatinized and / or comprising other chemical modifications as described above preferably has a weight average molecular weight of from 1 to 2000 kDa, preferably from 10 to 1000 kDa, most preferably from 20 to 1000 kDa, and even more preferably from 100 to 1000 kDa.
  • the molecular weight can range from 200 to 800 kDa, from 200 to 500 kDa, from 200 to 400 kDa or even from 200 to 300 kDa.
  • the weight average molecular weight being determined by HPSEC-MALLS (high performance size exclusion chromatography coupled in-line with multiple angle laser light scattering detection).
  • the starch after alkylation and hydrolysis will preferably be non-granular.
  • a hydrolyzed and hydroxypropylated starch which can be used in a preferred manner in the context of the present invention is, for example, commercially available under the trade reference LYCOAT RS 720 or LYCOAT NG 720 by the company Roquette Fromme.
  • the starch according to the invention may also have undergone physical treatments, in particular chosen from the known operations of gelatinization, pre-gelatinization, extrusion, atomization or drying, the operations microwave or ultrasound treatment, plasticization or granulation.
  • the starch according to the invention can preferably be made soluble. It can be made soluble by any technique known to those skilled in the art, in particular by heat and / or mechanical treatment, for example by a cooking operation in an aqueous medium (pre-gelatinization), optionally followed by a drying step when obtaining a pulverulent product is desired.
  • pre-gelatinization a cooking operation in an aqueous medium
  • the operation aimed at making the starch soluble can quite well take place before or after the alkylation and / or the hydrolysis of the starch.
  • the hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated starch is pre-gelatinized.
  • Such a starch is commercially available under the trade reference LYCOAT RS 720 by the company Roquette Fromme.
  • Hydrolyzed and hydroxyalkylated leguminous starch optionally pre-gelatinized according to the invention can also comprise any other physical and / or chemical modification, as long as this does not interfere with the desired properties of said starch.
  • An example of chemical modification is in particular crosslinking.
  • the starch is present in a dry matter content of between 0.1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the starch is present in a dry matter content of between 1% and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the starch is present in a dry matter content of between 15% and 40% by weight, preferably between 20% and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least two plasticizers chosen from polyols.
  • polyol is understood to mean any organic molecule having in its structure at least 2 free hydroxy (—OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).
  • polyols suitable for use in the composition can be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEG) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and / or sorbitol.
  • PEG polyethylene glycols
  • the polyols are glycerol and sorbitol, more preferably mixed with pentylene glycol.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise any plasticizer other than the polyols described above.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise:
  • composition - 1 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition
  • composition according to the invention can comprise:
  • composition according to the invention can comprise:
  • composition according to the invention also comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally, at least one solvent soluble in water other than the polyols described above.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes in the present invention a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (water miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure ).
  • the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be volatile.
  • water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of mono-alcohols. having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
  • composition according to the invention comprising at least one monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises 25 to 65% by weight of water, preferably 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • gelling agent is meant a compound which, in the presence of a solvent, creates more or less strong intermacromolecular bonds thus inducing a three-dimensional network which freezes said solvent.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthetic or hemi-synthetic gels of polyester, in particular sulfonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and their derivatives.
  • -algae extracts such as agar-agar, carrageenans (iota, kappa, lambda), alginates, in particular of Na or Ca;
  • xanthan gum and its derivatives such as the product sold under the trade name "Rheosan” by the company Rhodia Chimie, the gellan gum sold under the trade name “Kelcogel F” by the company NUTRASWEET -KELCO or else iota carrageenan sold under the trade names “Seaspen PF 357” or “Viscarin SD 389” by the company FMC, or sclerotium gum (sclerotium gum or sclerotium rolfssii gum), produced by the bacterium Sclerotium rolfissii, available under the name Naturajel® by the company DIY Cosmetics or Amigel® by the company Alban Muller;
  • gelling agents of animal origin such as protein derivatives, in particular gelatin, from beef or fish, caseinates;
  • polymers of acrylic acid, of methyl acrylate and of polyoxyethylenated 25 EO behenyl methacrylate crosslinked (INCI name: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), such as that sold under the name Novethix L-10 Polymer by the company Lubrizol Advanced Materials, or Rheostyl TM 90 N from Arkema (INCI: Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate copolymer)
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polysaccharides, and more preferably from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and their mixture, for example the mixture marketed under the name Actigum VSX 20 by the company Cargill.
  • the mixture of xanthan gum and sclerotium gum has a weight ratio (xanthan: sclerotium) of between 1: 2 to 2: 1.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is preferably present in the composition according to the invention at a concentration which may range from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably from 0.2 to 5%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise an emulsifying agent.
  • emulsifying agents can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or else polymeric surfactants.
  • the surfactants which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants of HLB between 8 and 20 at 25 ° C.
  • HLB nonionic surfactants of HLB between 8 and 20 at 25 ° C.
  • esters and ethers of ose such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols, such as Montanov 68 from Seppic;
  • glycerol - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;
  • - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8 -C24 alcohol, and preferably of C12 -C18) such as oxyethylene ether cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30”), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20”), the oxyethylene ether of the mixture of C12- C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) in particular sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SFIELL CFIEMICALS
  • - fatty acid esters in particular of C8 -C24 acid, and preferably of C16 -C22
  • polyethylene glycol which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units
  • PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate in particular, sold under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA, or else PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, in particular sold under the name TAGAT S® by the company Evonik GOLDSCFIMIDT;
  • - fatty acid esters (in particular of C8 -C24, and preferably C16 -C22) acid and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, in particular sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT S® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCFIMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT O® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCFIMIDT, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC Ll 13® sold by the company SFIEREX, g
  • lysophosphatidylcholine of the following formula [CFIEM1]:
  • R is a fatty acid chain, comprising in particular from 10 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 20.
  • the lysophospholipid used in the composition of the invention is obtained from soybeans. More preferably, it has the INCI name glycine soya (soybean) seed extract.
  • glycine soya soybean seed extract
  • the mixture of 80% by weight glycerin and 20% by weight soybean (soybean) seed extract sold by Kemin under the name Lysofix Liquid® is used;
  • - emulsifying waxes such as the self-emulsifying wax sold under the name Polawax NF by Croda, or the PEG-8 beeswax sold under the name Apifil by Gattefossé,
  • the HLB emulsifying agent of between 8 and 20 is chosen from fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes such as self-emulsifying waxes or hydrolyzed waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Lysophospholipids such as Lysofix Liquid® allow the composition to thicken, thus improving its spreading.
  • the surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C.
  • HLB HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C.
  • sucrose stearate sucrose cocoate
  • sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI;
  • - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8 -C24 alcohol, and preferably of C12 -C18) such as oxyethylene ether stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Steareth-2”);
  • esters of fatty acids in particular of C8 -C24 acid, and preferably of C16 C22
  • polyol in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, ricinoleate glyceryl;
  • Lecithins such as soya lecithins (such as Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer);
  • the nonionic surfactant of HLB less than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C is chosen from esters of fatty acids and of polyol, preferably polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate such as that marketed. under the reference CITHROL PG32IS-LQ by the company Croda (INCI POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE).
  • composition according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 30% by weight of emulsifying agent, relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2 to 13% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise an additional film-forming agent other than starch, in particular a film-forming polymer.
  • film-forming polymers that can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • radical film-forming polymer is intended to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers containing, in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
  • the free-radical type film-forming polymers can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.
  • esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C1 - alkyl. C30, preferably C1-C20, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.
  • alkyl (meth) acrylates of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, methacrylate of lauryl, cyclohexyl methacrylate.
  • hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
  • aryl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
  • esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.
  • the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. .
  • amides of acidic monomers mention may for example be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl.
  • N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
  • these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
  • vinyl esters mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
  • styrene monomers of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
  • film-forming polycondensates mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.
  • the polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes , and their mixtures.
  • Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
  • acids that may be mentioned include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, acid 2,2 -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1, 3- acid cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
  • These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two
  • the diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols.
  • a diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, cyclohexane is preferably used. dimethanol, 4-butanediol.
  • glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.
  • Polyesters amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols.
  • diamine it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
  • aminoalcohol monoethanolamine can be used.
  • the polyester can also comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an Na +, Li +, K + ion, Mg2 +, Ca2 +, Cu2 +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. It is in particular possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a —SO3M group.
  • the aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally bearing a —SO3M group as described above can be chosen, for example, from the benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxidiphenyl and sulfonyldiphenyl rings. methylenediphenyl.
  • a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing a —SO3M group there may be mentioned: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
  • copolymers based on isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethyleneglycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.
  • the polymers of natural origin can be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers extracts of the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or of the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the Filmexel® product sold by the company Silab), and mixtures thereof.
  • a natural polymer such as Filmexel® makes it possible in particular to improve the hold of the film obtained from the composition according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymer can be a water-soluble polymer and can then be present in the continuous aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention.
  • the film-forming polymer may also be present in a composition of the invention in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex. or pseudolatex.
  • a composition of the invention in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex. or pseudolatex.
  • latex. or pseudolatex generally known under the name of latex. or pseudolatex.
  • the techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
  • aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer one can use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Dow Latex 432® by the company DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company ROHM & HAAS, the aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the brand name JONCRYL® by the company JOHNSON POLYMER or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, the Avalu
  • non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane such as Mexomer PAP® from the company CHIMEX, dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in document WO 04/055081.
  • the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer).
  • a fat-soluble polymer By way of example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear hydrocarbon radical. or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an ⁇ -olefin (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinylether (whose alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).
  • vinyl ester copolymers the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear hydrocarbon radical. or branched, from
  • copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • copolymers examples include vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate.
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the allyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Such fat-soluble copolymers can be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polystearate, of vinyl polystearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly (meth) acrylate of stearyl, of polyvinyl laurate, poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using methylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.
  • the fat-soluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.
  • liposoluble homopolymers and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • liposoluble homopolymers there may be mentioned in particular: polyvinyl laurate and poly (meth) acrylates of lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates possibly being crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of tetraethylene glycol.
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 alkyl radical. to C8 like ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better still to C3 to C20.
  • polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 alkyl radical. to C8 like ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better
  • silicone resins generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
  • the nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
  • TMS trimethylsiloxysilicate
  • SR1000 by the company General Electric
  • TMS 803 by the company Wacker
  • acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer comprising a dendrimeric carbosiloxane structure grafted onto a backbone.
  • vinyl available commercially under the references DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID or DOW CORNING FA 4001 CM.
  • silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5. , 874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051, 216 and US-A-5, 981, 680.
  • the additional film-forming polymer is chosen from polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, preferably from polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or from the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the Filmexel® product marketed by the company Silab),
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise a film-forming polymer other than legume starch.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise a silicone elastomer.
  • the at least partially crosslinked polymers resulting from the reaction of an organopolysiloxane bearing unsaturated groups, such as vinyl or allyl groups, located at the end or in the middle of the chain, preferably on a silicon atom, with another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenpolysiloxane.
  • an organopolysiloxane bearing unsaturated groups such as vinyl or allyl groups
  • another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenpolysiloxane.
  • Examples of such elastomers are marketed in particular by the company SH IN ETSU under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-16, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, and by the company DOW CORNING under the trade names DOWSIL TM 9040 and DOWSIL TM 9041.
  • Another oily gelling agent consists of a silicone polymer, obtained by self-polymerization of an organopolysiloxane functionalized with epoxy and hydrosilyl groups, in the presence of of a catalyst, which is commercially available from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC under the trade name VELVESIL ® 125.
  • Another lipophilic gelling agent consists of a cyclic dimethicone / vinyldimethicone copolymer such as that sold by the company JEEN under the trade name JEESILC ® PS (including PS-VH, PS-VHLV, PS-CM, PS-CMLV and PS-DM).
  • JEESILC ® PS including PS-VH, PS-VHLV, PS-CM, PS-CMLV and PS-DM.
  • the silicone elastomer can be an emulsifier, preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
  • polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers the following can be used: those with the INCI name PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-21”, “KSG-20”, by Shin Etsu; - those of INCI name Lauryl PEG- 15 Dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer: like those marketed under the names "KSG-30” and "KSG-31", KSG-32 "(in isododecane),” KSG-33 "(in trioctanoine), "KSG-210", “KSG-310” (in mineral oil), “KSG-320” (in isododecane), "KSG-330", “KSG-340” by the company Shin Etsu .
  • PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer such as those sold under the names “KSG-21”, “KSG-20”, by Shin Etsu
  • polyglycerolated silicone elastomers the following can be used: - those with the INCI name Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names "KSG-710" by Shin Etsu; those with the INCI name Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-840” (in squalene) by the company Shin Etsu.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile oil means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin fibers in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm of Hg).
  • the volatile oil can be hydrocarbonaceous.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms mention may in particular be made of branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane. and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and their mixtures, and is in particular isododecane.
  • the volatile oil can be a volatile linear alkane.
  • an alkane suitable for the invention can be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Such a volatile linear alkane can advantageously be of plant origin.
  • alkanes suitable for the invention mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/1068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing by at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
  • linear alkanes suitable for the invention there may be mentioned n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • n-undecane C11
  • n-tridecane C13
  • examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 15505 from the company Cognis.
  • the volatile linear alkane alone or preferably a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number. of 1 or 2.
  • the volatile oil can be a volatile silicone oil such as cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
  • cyclic polysiloxanes such as cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
  • linear volatile polysiloxanes mention may be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.
  • volatile cyclic polysiloxanes mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • composition produced may comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil which remains on the keratin fibers at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mm of Fig (0.13 Pa).
  • the non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon-based and fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil mention may in particular be made of:
  • Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as linear C4 to C36 alkanes, preferably C11 -C21 such as phyto squalane or Emogreen L15 from SEPPIC (C15-19 alkane), or even such as phytostearyl esters , such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and, in particular, from C18 to C36; these oils can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils can, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley,
  • John's wort oil monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, l 'evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, oil pumpkin, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or also caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL,
  • R1 COOR2 oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on condition that R1 + R2 is> 10.
  • the esters can be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol , such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearate stearate 'octyl, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecy
  • esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate
  • dimer diol and dimer diacid and their esters such as dilinoleyl diol / dilinoleic dimer dimer copolymers and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G,
  • - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-blatyloctanol , and 2- undecylpentadecanol,
  • C12-C22 such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and their mixtures
  • di-alkyl carbonates the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS,
  • non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMS comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or at silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenol trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates less than or equal to 100 phenethylsiloximethicones or less than 100 trimethylsiloxysiloxysiloxysiloxysiloxysiloxysiloxysil (Diphenyls) trimethyls (trimethyls) ethyl trimethyls (trimethyls) trimethylsil.
  • PDMS non-vol
  • fluorinated oils which can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicon oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847752.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax.
  • the wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a higher melting point or equal to 30 ° C up to 120 ° C.
  • the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than approximately 45 ° C, and in particular greater than 55 ° C.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.
  • D.S.C. differential scanning calorimeter
  • the waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, which are solid, which may or may not be deformable at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the wax can also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. Hardness is determined by the measurement of the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2Î by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters.
  • a mixture of jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax is for example marketed under the reference ACTICIRE MP by the company GATTEFOSSE.
  • the hydrocarbon waxes can be chosen from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C 8 -C 32 .
  • hydrogenated jojoba oil hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, tetrastearate.
  • di- (trimethylol- 1, 1, 1 propane) sold under the name "FIEST 2T-4S” by the company FIETERENE
  • tetrabhenate of di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) sold under the name FIEST 2T-4B by the company FIETERENE.
  • waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils such as castor or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57. by the company SOPFIIM.
  • Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
  • silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to known methods.
  • hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.
  • the waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.
  • the compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one wax called a sticky wax.
  • a sticky wax a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate.
  • C20-C40 alkyl Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
  • the waxes are chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably chosen from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and their mixtures.
  • lipophilic gelling agent consists of the copolymers of styrene and of olefins such as ethylene, propylene and / or butylene, optionally combined with silicone or hydrocarbon solvents, as described in particular in application WO 98 / 38981 and in US Pat. No. 6,309,629. They understand including block terpolymers based gelling available from Penreco under the VERSAGEL ® trade name.
  • lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamides such as those identified by the INCI name polyamide-3 and in particular the SYLVACLEAR ® AF 1900V and PA 1200V polymers available from the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL as well as those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide "and available for example under the trade name SYLVACLEAR ® A200V or SYLVACLEAR A2614V ® from Arizona Chemical.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent may alternatively be a hydrophobic modified bentone or hectorite.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise a coloring agent chosen from pigments, nacres, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water.
  • the coloring agent is chosen from pigments and / or nacres.
  • pigments should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film.
  • the pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic.
  • the pigment can be an organic pigment.
  • organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter organic pigment.
  • the organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane.
  • the organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments. codified in the Color Index under the references C1 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108 , 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CM 1725, 15510,45370, 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200
  • These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments such as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426.
  • These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the attachment of the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment can also be a lacquer.
  • lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • lakes mention may be made of the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850: 1).
  • the pigment can be an inorganic pigment.
  • inorganic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, the oxides of zirconium or of cerium, as well as the oxides of zinc, of iron (black, yellow or red) or of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta 2 0 5 , Ti 3 0 5 , Ti 2 0 3 , TiO, Zr0 2 mixed with TiC0 2 , Zr0 2 , Nb 2 0 5 , Ce0 2 , ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 ⁇ m, preferably between 20 nm and 5 ⁇ m, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 ⁇ m.
  • the coloring agent can also be a soluble dye, preferably soluble in water.
  • D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 ( Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985).
  • D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
  • the nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in make-up products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. As a variant, they may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE ® from MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS ® from ENGELHARD) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR ® from MERCK).
  • SUNSHINE ® synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide
  • REFLECKS ® calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide
  • RONASTAR ® calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide
  • composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.0001 to 30% by weight of coloring agent, preferably from 0.001 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.002 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one filler. These fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
  • the fillers can be inorganic or organic in any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic shape (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica surface treated with a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, powders of polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), of poly-b-alanine and of polyethylene.
  • tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders Teflon®
  • lauroyl-lysine starch
  • boron nitride hollow microspheres polymers such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap ⁇ ®> from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydra-carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), microcapsules of glass or ceramic, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, myristate of magnesium.
  • organic carboxylic acids having
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient, which can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, anti-pollution agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents. , whitening agents, self-tanners and agents promoting microcirculation.
  • at least one cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, anti-pollution agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents. , whitening agents, self-tanners and agents promoting microcirculation.
  • vitamins examples include vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C and E and their derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, and biotin.
  • antioxidants include ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl sorbate.
  • tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters; BHT and BHA; esters of gallic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, cephalin, hexametaphosphate, phytic acid, and plant extracts, for example from the roots of Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) such as Blue Malagasy Ginger marketed by the company BIOLANDES, of Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, mate leaf, oak wood, bark from Rapet Kayu, Sakura leaves and ylang ylang leaves.
  • Zingiber Officinale Ginger
  • BIOLANDES of Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, mate leaf, oak wood, bark from Rapet Kayu, Sakura leaves and ylang ylang leaves.
  • moisturizers include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulfuric acid, high or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid or even hyaluronic acid potentiated by a silanol derivative such as the active Epidermosil ® marketed by the company Exymol, and mucoitinsulfuric acid; caronic acid; atelo collagen; chloresteryl-12-hydroxystearate; bile salts, a major component of NHF (natural hydration factor) such as a salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and a salt of lactic acid, an amino acid analogue such as urea, cysteine and serine ; short chain soluble collagen, diglycerin PPGs, 2-methacryloyloxyethylphosphorylcho
  • hydrating agents include compounds which stimulate the expression of MT / SP1 matriptase, such as an extract of carob bean pulp, as well as agents which stimulate the expression of CERT, of ARNT2 or of FN3K or FN3K RP; agents increasing the proliferation or differentiation of keratinocytes, either directly or indirectly by stimulating, for example, the production of b-endorphins, such as extracts of Thermus thermophilus or of Theobroma cacao bean hulls, water-soluble extracts of maize, peptide extracts of Voandzeia subterranea and niacinamide; epidermal lipids and agents increasing the synthesis of epidermal lipids, either directly or by stimulating certain ⁇ -glucosidases which modulate the deglycosylation of lipid precursors such as glucosylceramide into ceramides, such as phospholipids, ceramides, lupine protein hydrolysates and dihydrojasm
  • anti-pollution agents include Moringa pterygosperma seed extract (eg Purisoft ® from LSN); shea butter extract (eg Detoxyl ® from Silab), a mixture of ivy extract, phytic acid, sunflower seed extract (eg Osmopur ® from Sederma).
  • Moringa pterygosperma seed extract eg Purisoft ® from LSN
  • shea butter extract eg Detoxyl ® from Silab
  • a mixture of ivy extract, phytic acid, sunflower seed extract eg Osmopur ® from Sederma.
  • keratolytic agents include ⁇ -hydroxy acids (eg glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, mandelic, or tartaric acids) and ⁇ -hydroxy acids (eg salicylic acid), and their esters, such as C12-13 alkyl lactates, and plant extracts containing these hydroxy acids, such as extracts of Hibiscus sabdriffa.
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids eg glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, mandelic, or tartaric acids
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids eg salicylic acid
  • esters such as C12-13 alkyl lactates
  • plant extracts containing these hydroxy acids such as extracts of Hibiscus sabdriffa.
  • Examples of astringents include extracts of witch hazel.
  • anti-inflammatory agents include bisabolol, allantoin, tranexamic acid, zinc oxide, sulfur oxide and its derivatives, chondroitin sulfate, glycyrrhizinic acid and its derivatives. derivatives such as glycyrrhizinates.
  • bleaching agents include arbutin and its derivatives, ferulic acid (such as Cytovector®: water, glycol, lecithin, ferulic acid, hydroxyethylcellulose, marketed by BASF) and its derivatives, acid kojic, resorcinol, lipoic acid and its derivatives such as resveratrol diacetate monolipoate as described in patent application WO2006134282, ellagic acid, leucodopachrome and its derivatives, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, a peptide as described in patent application WO2009010356, a bioprecursor as described in patent application WO2006134282 or a tranexamate salt such as the hydrochloride salt of cetyl tranexamate, a liquorice extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra extract), which is sold in particular by the company Maruzen under the trade name Lico
  • An example of a self-tanner is DHA.
  • agents promoting microcirculation include an extract of lupine (such as Eclaline ® from Silab), ruscus, horse chestnut, ivy, ginseng or sweet clover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, a seaweed extract of Corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures. These agents which are active on the skin microcirculation can be used to prevent dulling of the complexion and / or to improve the uniformity and radiance of the complexion.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of cosmetic active agent, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.002 to 1% by weight, relative to the weight total of the composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise other ingredients as long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition.
  • these other ingredients can for example be preservatives, pH adjusters such as citric acid or arginine, antimicrobial agents, perfumes, sun filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for preparing a film-forming cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising:
  • the mixing of the plasticizers with water, optionally with the emulsifying and / or film-forming agents, is carried out at room temperature, or at hot, for example at a temperature between 60 and 95 ° C. .
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for obtaining a peelable film from a film-forming composition as described above, characterized in that:
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, consisting in applying to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, eyelashes, the eyebrows or the lips, a composition according to the invention.
  • Example 1 treatment mask
  • a peel-off mask was prepared in the form of an aqueous gel having the composition shown in the following Table 1.
  • the preservative was dissolved under a deflocculator in water.
  • Lysofix Liquid® from Kemin was then added with moderate stirring until complete solubilization.
  • LYOCAT RS720 and XANTHAN GUM were pasted into glycols, then the mixture was placed in a beaker.
  • citric acid was added in sufficient quantity to reach a pH around 5.
  • the mask was applied to the skin of the face and allowed to dry.
  • the composition spreads easily and evenly.
  • the drying time is quite fast (between 5 and 15 minutes) and the film obtained is uniform, flexible, and resistant. It can be easily removed by peeling.
  • composition of Table 1 was reproduced, in which pea starch (LYOCAT RS720) was replaced by a corn starch (Meritena from Tereos, comparative 1) or by a waxy corn starch. (Structure XL of Akzo Nobel, comparative 2). Tereos Meritena corn starch disperses in water but does not allow the formation of a peelable film. Comparative composition 2 comprising Akzo Nobel waxy Structure XL corn starch does not spread evenly. After drying, no film is formed.
  • Example 2 eye shadow
  • the eye shadow was prepared according to the following protocol:
  • aqueous phase comprising water, glycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, preservative and polysorbate 20 and stir it in a rotor stator at 245 rpm,

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EP20713305.9A 2019-03-29 2020-03-27 Composition cosmétique filmogène pelable Pending EP3946215A1 (fr)

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FR1903335A FR3094220B1 (fr) 2019-03-29 2019-03-29 Composition cosmétique filmogène pelable
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CN113677311B (zh) 2024-06-25
KR20210144733A (ko) 2021-11-30
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JP2022526963A (ja) 2022-05-27
FR3094220B1 (fr) 2022-02-25

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