EP3923902A1 - Gel coiffant naturel - Google Patents

Gel coiffant naturel

Info

Publication number
EP3923902A1
EP3923902A1 EP19813261.5A EP19813261A EP3923902A1 EP 3923902 A1 EP3923902 A1 EP 3923902A1 EP 19813261 A EP19813261 A EP 19813261A EP 3923902 A1 EP3923902 A1 EP 3923902A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
copolymer
cosmetic agent
polyquaternium
oil
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP19813261.5A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Nora Koopmann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3923902A1 publication Critical patent/EP3923902A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.
  • Hair treatment agents which are used to temporarily shape the hair, play an important role.
  • Corresponding agents for temporary deformation usually contain synthetic polymers and / or waxes as setting active ingredients.
  • Means to support the temporary reshaping of hair can be made up, for example, as hairspray, hair wax, hair gel, hair foam.
  • the most important property of an agent for the temporary deformation of hair is to give the treated fibers in the newly modeled shape - that is, a shape impressed on the hair - as strong and lasting hold as possible.
  • the hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the setting active ingredients used, although the other components of the styling agent can also have an influence.
  • styling agents In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a number of other requirements. These can be roughly divided into properties on the hair, properties of the respective formulation, for example properties of the foam, the gel or the sprayed aerosol, and
  • a styling agent should, if possible, be universally applicable for all hair types and should be mild to hair and skin.
  • the polymers can be divided into cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric setting polymers.
  • waxes are used as setting active ingredients.
  • the polymers and / or waxes ideally result in a polymer film or film which on the one hand gives the hairstyle a strong hold, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress.
  • film-forming polymer and setting polymer are used synonymously.
  • the synthetic polymers usually used in agents for temporary shaping are produced from corresponding synthetically accessible monomers.
  • Said monomers are made from fossil materials such as petroleum through conversion to the corresponding polymer building blocks, among others. obtained with the use of energy. Since the monomers are already produced synthetically, the polymers usually used are fully synthetic polymers. In the context of a more sustainable use of raw materials and energy, it remains desirable to use only those cosmetic raw materials for cosmetic products that are accessible from renewable raw materials with as little use of energy as possible. A quantity reduction or even an exchange of said fully synthetic polymers can, however, only be undertaken if the replacement polymers produce the properties desired for the intended use and give the keratin-containing fibers a sufficient, stable hold of the embossed shape.
  • the object on which the invention is based is to provide a cosmetic agent which is suitable for the temporary reshaping of keratin-containing fibers, in which the use of fully synthetic polymers is reduced or in which the use of fully synthetic polymers is dispensed with, the styling properties being retained at a high level should.
  • a cosmetic agent for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 60 to 90% by weight of water;
  • Cosmetic agents for temporarily reshaping human hair are also known as styling agents.
  • the present invention particularly relates to styling agents such as
  • Foams, mousses, gels, waxes, pastes, lotions, emulsions or clays Foams, mousses, gels, waxes, pastes, lotions, emulsions or clays.
  • the product form “clay” describes highly viscous, waxy cosmetic agents that include
  • Contain clay compounds e.g. kaolin
  • the combination according to the invention allows the amount of fully synthetic polymers as film formers to be reduced without necessarily having to accept losses in the styling properties.
  • the use of fully synthetic polymers can also be dispensed with entirely. It was also found that, in particular, the rigidity of the polymer film and thereby the hold of the hairstyle can be greatly increased by the combination according to the invention.
  • keratinic fibers includes furs, wool and feathers, but in particular human hair.
  • the application properties in particular the spreadability on the keratin fibers and the elasticity of the corresponding styling, can be improved even further if the amount of water is chosen within narrower limits.
  • the amount of water is chosen within narrower limits.
  • Cosmetic agents according to the invention characterized in that they contain 62.5 to 89.8% by weight, preferably 65 to 89.6% by weight, more preferably 70 to 89.5% by weight, even more preferably 75 to 89, 4% by weight, even more preferably 80 to 89.2% by weight and in particular 85 to 89% by weight of water.
  • sucrose sucrose
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 1.25 to 4.8% by weight, preferably 1.5 to 4.6% by weight, more preferably 1.75 to 4.4% by weight and in particular contain 2 to 5 wt .-% sucrose.
  • the agents according to the invention contain 3 to 7% by weight of hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose.
  • the already good applicability and distributability of the agents according to the invention can be increased even further if the hydroxypropylmethylcellulose is used within narrower quantity ranges.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 3.25 to 6.75% by weight, preferably 3.5 to 6.5% by weight, more preferably 3.25 to 6.25% by weight and in particular contain 4.0 to 6.0 wt .-% hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose.
  • carboxymethyl starch contains 0 to 3% by weight of carboxymethyl starch, ie they can contain this, but need not.
  • Carboxymethyl starch is a starch ether in which some of the hydroxyl groups are linked as ethers to a carboxymethyl group (-CH2COOH).
  • CMS carboxymethyl starch
  • a starch is converted into alkali starch with lye and then alkylated with chloroacetic acid to form carboxymethyl starch.
  • Sodium hydroxide solution is predominantly used, so that most of the commercially available carboxymethyl starches are sodium salts, which can differ in terms of their sodium content (i.e. degree of carboxymethylation).
  • compositions according to the invention can be increased even further if the carboxymethyl starch is used within narrower quantity ranges.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention accordingly contain 0.25 to 2.75% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 2.25% by weight and in particular 1.0 up to 2.0% by weight of carboxymethyl starch.
  • the agents according to the invention have outstanding styling properties that are in no way inferior to or even exceed conventional agents based on fully synthetic polymers.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are to contain fully synthetic polymers, these can come from the groups of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers.
  • setting polymers are acrylamides / ammonium acrylate copolymers
  • Acrylamides / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer,
  • Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamides, Polyacrylate-6, Polybeta-Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1,
  • Polyethylacrylate Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polymethacryloyl Ethyl Betaine, Polypentaerythrityl Terephthalate, Polyperfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-9-Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10-7, Polyquaternium-9 Polyquaternium-1 1, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24,
  • Polyurethane-10 Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA
  • Siloxanes are also suitable as setting polymers.
  • Homopolyacrylic acid (INCI: Carbomer), which is commercially available in different versions under the name Carbopol®, is also suitable as a setting polymer.
  • Preferred setting polymers are selected from vinylpyrrolidone-containing polymers.
  • the setting polymer is particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer, vinyl
  • Another preferred setting polymer is Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (INCI), which is marketed by AkzoNobel under the name “Amphomer®”.
  • Cosmetic agents which - based on their weight - contain less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, more preferably less than 0.25% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight % and even more preferably less than 0.01% by weight of fully synthetic polymer (s), with extremely preferred agents being free from fully synthetic polymers, and therefore preferred.
  • biopolymers are synthesized in living things and form the basic building blocks of organisms.
  • Chemically modified polymers result from the further processing of biopolymers, for example starch derivatives or those optionally used according to the invention
  • Carboxymethyl starch Chemically modified polymers, i.e. Polymers based on natural polymers do not fall into the group of synthetic or fully synthetic polymers in the context of the present invention.
  • Cosmetics contain other natural and / or chemically modified polymers.
  • the cosmetic agents can particularly preferably contain a polymer selected from chitosan and its derivatives as a further setting polymer.
  • Chitosans are biopolymers and belong to the group of hydrocolloids. From a chemical point of view, they are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights.
  • Chitin is used to produce the chitosans, preferably the remains of peel
  • Crustaceans which are available in large quantities as cheap raw materials.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by adding bases, demineralized by adding mineral acids and finally deacetylated by adding strong bases, whereby the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • Those types are preferably used which have an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 Dalton, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range from 80 to 88% and a Have ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.
  • cationically derivatized chitosans such as
  • Quaternization products or alkoxylated chitosans can be used.
  • the cosmetic agents can very particularly preferably contain neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid as chitosan derivative (s).
  • the acid used for neutralization is preferably selected from organic acids, in particular from formic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid,
  • Hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids It is very particularly preferred to select the acid (s) used for neutralization from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids.
  • Suitable chitosan are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ® CMF (1% by weight active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4% by weight glycolic acid, molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ® HCMF (chitosan (80% deacetylated),
  • the agents according to the invention can contain a further component of at least one emulsifier.
  • anionic, cationic, nonionic and ampholytic surface-active compounds which are suitable for use on the human body are suitable as emulsifiers.
  • the ampholytic surfactants include zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. Nonionic emulsifiers and / or ampholytic emulsifiers are preferred.
  • Emulsifiers cause the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers at the phase interface, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion.
  • surfactants emulsifiers are therefore made up of a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule.
  • Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferentially form O / W emulsions (oil-in-water emulsions) and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferentially form W / O emulsions (water-in-oil emulsions).
  • O / W emulsifiers are preferred, particularly preferred emulsifiers are adducts of 15 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, in particular PEG-40 Castor Oil (INCI).
  • the particularly preferred emulsifiers offer the advantage that they can be obtained from natural, non-fully synthetic raw material sources.
  • a preferred ampholytic emulsifier is, for example
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention can contain the emulsifier in a total amount of 0.1 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.25 to 1.5% by weight, even more preferably 0.5 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.
  • the agents according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media.
  • the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol, which are usually used for cosmetic purposes, can be contained as alcohols.
  • the applicability of the cosmetic agent can be further increased by using small amounts of one or more polyhydric alcohols.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents contain one or more C3 to C12 alkane-1,2-diols, more preferably C3 to C10 alkane-1,2-diols.
  • the cosmetic agent particularly preferably additionally contains 1,2-propaanediol or caprylyl glycol. These particularly preferred diols improve the applicability, are at the same time nourishing and are suitable for forming a stable emulsion with the particularly preferred emulsifier.
  • the cosmetic agent Based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, more preferably 0.02 to 0.8% by weight, of the alkane-1,2-diol in the contain cosmetic products.
  • the cosmetic agent contains at least one care oil and / or at least one care component, vegetable care oil (s) / care component (s) being particularly preferred.
  • Oils are beneficial as conditioning agents because they give the hair a silky sheen and make the hair more resilient by being absorbed by the hair. Care oils, however, place higher demands on the product formulation, since they have to be incorporated in a stable manner without any disadvantageous settling or creaming in the case of longer storage times
  • the cosmetic agent comprises at least one care oil comprising a triglyceride of native origin.
  • Vegetable care oils from the group of amaranth seed oil, argan oil, rice germ oil, baobab oil, manetti oil, marula seed oil, yangu seed oil, rambutan oil, buckthorn oil, monoi de Tahiti, tiger nut oil, inca inchi oil, avocado oil are particularly preferred , Cottonseed oil, gupuagu butter, gashew oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, jojoba oil, chamomile oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, and sunflower oil
  • Wheat germ oil in particular (-) - a-bisabolol, hydrogenated jojoba oil and / or coconut oil.
  • the agent can, for example, also contain at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives as a care component.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures that are obtained by the acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins.
  • the term protein hydrolysates also includes total hydrolysates and individual amino acids and their derivatives and mixtures of different amino acids.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates that can be used is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 Daltons.
  • the agent can also contain at least one vitamin, provitamin, vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives as a care component.
  • Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors that are usually assigned to groups A, B, G, E, F and H are preferred.
  • a particularly preferred care ingredient is D-panthenol.
  • the cosmetic agent based on the total weight, can contain 0.0005 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.05 to 1% by weight of the sum of care oils and Care component included.
  • the cosmetic agent can also contain neutralizers or pH adjusters. Examples of neutralizers used in cosmetic agents are NaOH or primary amino alcohols such as aminomethyl propanol (INCI), which is commercially available, for example, under the name AMP-ULTRA® PC, for example AMP-ULTRA® PC 2000.
  • the cosmetic agent also contains preservatives, perfume and, if appropriate, further auxiliaries.
  • agents based on renewable raw materials are an advantage of the present invention. It is therefore preferred to incorporate only those ingredients into the agents according to the invention which meet these criteria. If necessary, the use of synthetic preservatives may be indicated for legal reasons.
  • Cosmetic agents which are extremely preferred according to the invention for the temporary reshaping of keratinic fibers therefore consist of - based in each case on their weight - a) 60 to 90% by weight of water;
  • the cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferably packaged in such a way that the agent is present as a gel, wax, paste, lotion, emulsion or clay.
  • the present invention also relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of cosmetic agents according to the invention for the temporary reshaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, and a method for the temporary shaping of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in which the cosmetic agent is applied to keratin fibers is applied.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un agent cosmétique adapté au remodelage temporaire des fibres kératiniques, dans lequel l'utilisation de polymères entièrement synthétiques est réduite ou dans lequel l'utilisation de polymères entièrement synthétiques est supprimée, les propriétés coiffantes restant maintenues à un niveau élevé. Cet agent contient - respectivement par rapport à son poids - de 60 à 90 % en poids d'eau ; de 1 à 5 % en poids de saccharose ; de 3 à 7 % en poids d'hydroxypropylméthylcellulose et de 0 à 3 % en poids de carboxyméthylamidon.
EP19813261.5A 2019-02-11 2019-11-26 Gel coiffant naturel Pending EP3923902A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019201729.0A DE102019201729A1 (de) 2019-02-11 2019-02-11 Natural Hairstyling Gel
PCT/EP2019/082569 WO2020164769A1 (fr) 2019-02-11 2019-11-26 Gel coiffant naturel

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3923902A1 true EP3923902A1 (fr) 2021-12-22

Family

ID=68762706

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19813261.5A Pending EP3923902A1 (fr) 2019-02-11 2019-11-26 Gel coiffant naturel

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3923902A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102019201729A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2020164769A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2021257786A1 (fr) 2020-06-18 2021-12-23 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Éthers de poly-alpha-1,6-glucane cationiques et compositions les comprenant
WO2023287684A1 (fr) 2021-07-13 2023-01-19 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Dérivés d'ester de glucane cationique
EP4426888A1 (fr) 2021-11-05 2024-09-11 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Compositions comprenant un dérivé d'alpha-1,6-glucane cationique et un alpha-1,3-glucane
EP4447917A1 (fr) 2021-12-16 2024-10-23 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Compositions comprenant des éthers d'alpha-glucane cationiques dans des solvants organiques polaires aqueux
WO2024015769A1 (fr) 2022-07-11 2024-01-18 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Dérivés amphiphiles d'ester de glucane
WO2024081773A1 (fr) 2022-10-14 2024-04-18 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Compositions comprenant de l'eau, un éther d'alpha-1,6-glucane cationique et un solvant organique
WO2024097166A1 (fr) 2022-11-02 2024-05-10 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Compositions comprenant de la gomme de xanthane et de l'alpha-1,3-glucane cristallin
WO2024129953A1 (fr) 2022-12-16 2024-06-20 Nutrition & Biosciences USA 4, Inc. Estérification d'alpha-glucane comprenant des liaisons glycosidiques alpha-1,6

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102006051729A1 (de) * 2006-10-30 2008-05-08 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetisches Mittel
DE102009002267A1 (de) * 2009-04-07 2010-10-14 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Pulverförmige Zusammensetzung zur Form- und Glanzgebung keratinischer Fasern
EP2490657B1 (fr) * 2009-10-22 2017-01-18 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit pour le traitement des fibres kératiniques contenant un amidon non-ionique modifié par de l'oxyde de proplyène et un polymère supplémentaire nonionique filmogène ou fixant
DE102016203231A1 (de) * 2016-02-29 2017-08-31 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Mittel zur temporären Verformung keratinhaltiger Fasern mit einer Polymermischung

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2020164769A1 (fr) 2020-08-20
DE102019201729A1 (de) 2020-08-13

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