EP3897547A1 - Method for dyeing or making up eyebrows - Google Patents

Method for dyeing or making up eyebrows

Info

Publication number
EP3897547A1
EP3897547A1 EP19829120.5A EP19829120A EP3897547A1 EP 3897547 A1 EP3897547 A1 EP 3897547A1 EP 19829120 A EP19829120 A EP 19829120A EP 3897547 A1 EP3897547 A1 EP 3897547A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
extract
eyebrows
coloring
keratin fibers
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP19829120.5A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Lorraine LEGLAND
Patrick Choisy
Virginie Pecher
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LVMH Recherche GIE
Original Assignee
LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LVMH Recherche GIE filed Critical LVMH Recherche GIE
Publication of EP3897547A1 publication Critical patent/EP3897547A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/347Phenols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes
    • A61K2800/4322Direct dyes in preparations for temporarily coloring the hair further containing an oxidizing agent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows.
  • compositions for coloring or making up keratin materials comprising natural dyes, in particular plant extracts comprising polyphenols.
  • Dyeing processes using natural products which are more respectful of the nature of the fibers and the environment, are in fact increasingly appreciated by users.
  • the coloring or makeup result in particular when it comes to keratin fibers, is not always satisfactory in terms of intensity and / or homogeneity and / or resistance over time.
  • compositions and methods for coloring or making up keratin fibers in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising natural dyes based on polyphenols, with improved chromatic properties ( intensity and homogeneity of the color) and which are resistant to washing, perspiration and / or sebum.
  • compositions for coloring or making up keratin fibers in particular the eyebrows by using specific plant extracts and iron salts and / or aluminum salts , especially iron gluconate.
  • specific penetration boosters improves the intensity and color fastness over time.
  • compositions in the form of gels comprising iron gluconate have also demonstrated, for coloring or make-up compositions in the form of gels comprising iron gluconate, that the use of a particular acrylate copolymer was advantageous for the stability and the texture of the compositions.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising the application to said keratin fibers, of at least: a) A cosmetic composition A dye comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives , and mixtures thereof, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing them, and advantageously an antioxidant agent, b) A revealing cosmetic composition B comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one iron salt and / or one salt aluminum, in particular an iron gluconate or an iron sulphate, composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B.
  • a cosmetic composition A dye comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neof
  • composition A further comprises an agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, chosen from bicyclic ethers , fatty acid esters comprising polyethoxylated C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, and their mixtures, preferably bicyclic ethers, each cycle of the bicycle comprising a number n of links between 3 and 10, the fatty acid esters comprising a C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched using other C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, each of the hydrocarbon chains being polyethoxylated, with a degree of ethoxylation of at least 2, in particular of 2 to 12, and mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethyl isosorbide.
  • PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and their mixture.
  • the invention also relates to a kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments and comprising:
  • the coloring composition A as defined in the invention in another separate compartment the revealing composition B as defined in the invention and characterized in that it does not include the iron salt and / or aluminum, and
  • the iron and / or aluminum salt intended to be mixed extemporaneously with the revealing composition B before application to the keratin fibers,
  • the kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments comprises:
  • the revealing composition B as defined in the invention and characterized in that it comprises the iron and / or aluminum salt,
  • kits according to the invention may also optionally comprise, in another separate compartment, a composition C comprising an oxidizing agent for pretreatment of the keratin fibers before treatment with compositions A and B.
  • an agent oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide produces a slight alteration of the cuticles or scales, outer part of the keratin fibers, allowing them to open and therefore better penetration of the active ingredients.
  • the use of a pre-treatment with an oxidizing agent makes it possible to promote better penetration of the coloring agents.
  • the present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic process for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising the application to said keratin fibers, of at least:
  • a cosmetic composition A dye comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives , and mixtures thereof, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing them, and advantageously an antioxidant agent
  • a revealing cosmetic composition B comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one iron salt and / or one salt aluminum, in particular an iron gluconate or an iron sulphate, composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B.
  • the compositions A and B do not contain an oxidizing agent and the keratin fibers are not treated, before or after treatment with the compositions A and B, with an oxidizing agent.
  • the keratin fibers in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, are pretreated with an oxidizing agent, before the application of said compositions A and B.
  • this oxidizing pretreatment makes it possible to open the scales of the keratin fibers and thus make it possible to promote the penetration of the coloring agents.
  • the oxidizing agent can be chosen from the group formed by hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromates or ferricyanides of alkali metals, peroxygenated salts such as for example persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates.
  • hydrogen peroxide is used.
  • a pretreatment composition C comprising hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, before the application of the coloring compositions A and revealing B.
  • a pre-treatment with an oxidizing agent makes it possible to improve the intensity and the color fastness over time.
  • the oxidizing agent may be present in the pretreatment composition C in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition comprises from 1 to 12% by weight of hydrogen peroxide or, by volume, from 3 volumes to 40 volumes of the total composition.
  • the cosmetic composition A dye according to the invention comprises one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing it.
  • the natural dye or dyes suitable for the invention can be chosen from hematoxylin, hematinin, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagin, vescalagin, procyanidins, and their mixtures.
  • Plant extracts comprising polyphenols
  • the plant extracts which can be used according to the invention are plant extracts comprising at least polyphenols chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives, and their mixtures. These polyphenols are predominant in the composition of said plant extracts.
  • the plant extracts which are suitable for the invention are chosen from plant extracts containing at least one colorant chosen from the group consisting of hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagine, vescalagine, procyanidins.
  • plant extracts (genus and species) can in particular be used:
  • - chestnut extract (Castanea sativa) containing in particular hydrolysable tannins of the ellagitannin type such as vescalagine and castalagine and gallic tannins such as the monomers of gallic acid and derivatives;
  • extracts of hibiscus and strawberry including anthocyanins, and mixtures thereof.
  • the coloring composition A comprises a natural dye chosen from the group consisting of hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagin, vescalagin, and / or procyanidins and their mixtures, or a plant extract containing them, in particular a plant extract chosen from the group consisting of a log extract, a red wood extract, chestnut extract, gall nut extract (Rhus semialata gall extract), Anogeissus bark extract pine extract, tea extract, vine extract, Sorghum extract , a cocoa extract, a myrobalan extract, a hibiscus extract, a strawberry extract and their mixtures, preferably a log extract, a red wood extract, a chestnut extract, and their mixtures.
  • a natural dye chosen from the group consisting of hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagin, vescalagin, and
  • the coloring composition A comprises at least one plant extract chosen from an extract of logwood, an extract of chestnut, an extract of red wood, and their mixtures.
  • the extracts are obtained by extracting various parts of plants, such as for example the root, the wood, the bark or the leaf.
  • an extract from logwood, wood or chestnut bark, sorghum leaf or stem, pine bark, tea leaf, gall nut, cocoa bean, wood is used. or red wood bark and mixtures thereof.
  • the coloring composition A comprises at least one extract of logwood.
  • Campeche extract Hematoxylon Campechianum
  • SCRD company SCRD
  • Logwood extract also known under the name Hematin N0200.
  • Hematin N0200 a dark brown burgundy powder comprising 20-40% hematoxylin (polyphenol neoflavonoid type) by weight of dry extract.
  • It is a pure vegetable dye of non-oxidized extraction obtained from Campeche wood. The degree of oxidation comes from the natural oxidation of the Hematoxylin contained in the product without any chemical oxidation.
  • Campeche extract consists mainly of the Hematoxylin dye, more or less condensed glucosides and tannins.
  • the chemical structure of the two coloring principles, Hematoxylin and Hematein, allows them to be classified in the group of neoflavonoids.
  • the range of colors that can be obtained with Campeche extract is one of the most extensive in vegetable dye.
  • the coloring composition A comprises at least one extract of wood or chestnut bark of INCI name Castanea sativa (chestnut) bark extract.
  • the bark and the chestnut wood contain in particular eight polyphenolic compounds, including ellagitannins, castaline, vescalagine, castalagine, acutissimine A, kurigaline, chestanine.
  • the coloring composition A comprises at least one extract of wood or bark of Brasiletto (or red wood).
  • the Redwood Haematoxylum Brasiletto or Brasilensis
  • the extract of Brasiletto wood or red wood is rich in Bréziline (its oxidized form is Braziléine).
  • SCRD an extract of Brasiletto sold by the company SCRD.
  • the coloring composition A can also comprise a mixture of plant extracts according to the invention, depending on the desired shade. According to a particular mode, the coloring composition A comprises a mixture of logwood extract and chestnut extract.
  • the natural dye (s) or the plant extract (s) containing it are present in the dye composition A of the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.
  • a person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the total content of plant extracts to be used in the composition according to the desired effect and to the nature and content of natural dye (s) of said extracts.
  • Antioxidant agent oxidation reducing agent
  • the coloring composition A also advantageously comprises at least one antioxidant agent (otherwise called oxidation reducing agent).
  • This antioxidant agent both protects the plant extract from oxidation and acts on the keratin fiber and in particular on the eyebrow to break the disulphide bridges and thus improve coloring.
  • the antioxidant agent can be chosen in particular from sulfites, bisulfites, thiols and phosphines, preferably sulfites and bisulfites of alkali or alkaline earth metals. Mention may in particular be made of sodium sulfite or bisulfite.
  • the coloring composition A comprises a sodium bisulfite (sodium metabisulfite) as an antioxidant agent.
  • the antioxidant agent may be present in the coloring composition A in a content ranging from 0.01 to 0.5%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition Agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the dye (otherwise called 'penetration booster')
  • composition A further comprises an agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows.
  • This agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fiber and in particular the eyebrow, is distinct from benzyl alcohol.
  • This agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fiber and in particular the eyebrow is in particular chosen from bicyclic ethers, fatty acid esters comprising C6 to C18 polyethoxylated hydrocarbon chains, and mixtures thereof.
  • the agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fiber is chosen from bicyclic ethers, each cycle of the bicycle comprising a number n of links between 3 and 10, the esters d fatty acids comprising a C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched using other C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, each of the hydrocarbon chains being polyethoxylated, with a degree of ethoxylation of at least 2, in particular from 2 to 12, and their mixtures.
  • the bicyclic ether is dimethyl isosorbide.
  • the polyethoxylated fatty acid ester is PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
  • the coloring composition A comprises at least dimethyl isosorbide, such as that marketed under the names ARLASOLVE TM DMI or GRANSOLVE TM DMI by the company CRODA, Dottisol TM by the company Dottikon ES AG, NEX-DMI TM by the Nexgen Biotechnologies, Inc; or OriStar DMI TM by Orient Stars LLC.
  • dimethyl isosorbide such as that marketed under the names ARLASOLVE TM DMI or GRANSOLVE TM DMI by the company CRODA, Dottisol TM by the company Dottikon ES AG, NEX-DMI TM by the Nexgen Biotechnologies, Inc; or OriStar DMI TM by Orient Stars LLC.
  • the coloring composition A comprises at least PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, such as that sold under the names CETIOL® HE by the company BASF, or Chemonic LI-7 Surfactant by the company Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc, or Tegosoft GC by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH or Nikkol SG-CG700 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd or Glycerox HE by Croda.
  • the coloring composition A can also comprise aromatic alcohols chosen in particular from benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethanol and phenyl propanol, as preservatives.
  • the coloring composition A also comprises phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol as preservatives.
  • the content of preservatives may range from 0.1 to 5%, in particular from 0.3 to 3% and preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the coloring composition A also advantageously comprises a nonionic surfactant, in particular an alkyl glucoside, preferably decyl glucoside.
  • nonionic surfactant which can be used in the dye composition A of the invention, mention may in particular be made of alkylpolyglucosides.
  • an alkyl glucoside will be used as a nonionic surfactant according to the invention.
  • These surfactants known from the prior art can be more represented by the following general formula: R 1 0- (R 2 0) t (G) v in which:
  • R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical containing approximately from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 4 and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
  • the alkylpolyglucoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which R1 more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, G can denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose.
  • the degree of polymerization ie the value of v in the above formula, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
  • the average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.
  • the glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.
  • the coloring composition A comprises a decyl glucoside such as that sold under the name PLANTACARE 2000® UP or PLANTACARE 2000® UP / MB by the company BASF, or Triton CG-50 Surfactant by the company Dow Chemical Company , or Blanova Tens APG 2000 by Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH or Oramix NS 10 by Seppic.
  • a decyl glucoside such as that sold under the name PLANTACARE 2000® UP or PLANTACARE 2000® UP / MB by the company BASF, or Triton CG-50 Surfactant by the company Dow Chemical Company , or Blanova Tens APG 2000 by Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH or Oramix NS 10 by Seppic.
  • the content of nonionic surfactant, preferably alkylpolyglucoside and more preferably decyl glucoside in the dye composition A of the invention will range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
  • the coloring composition A will also comprise a polymeric gelling agent, preferably an acrylic polymeric gelling agent.
  • a polymeric gelling agent preferably an acrylic polymeric gelling agent.
  • This polymeric gelling agent makes it possible to structure the composition by increasing its viscosity.
  • hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent can be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • the polymeric gelling agent according to the invention is a polymeric gelling agent, preferably synthetic, in other words it is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin (ex: polysaccharides, celluloses, etc.).
  • the synthetic polymeric gelling agent considered according to the invention may or may not be particulate; in particular it is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.
  • the polymeric gelling agent according to the invention is an acrylic polymeric gelling agent chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not.
  • carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a, b-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a group hydrophobic.
  • the term “copolymers” means both the copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers as well as those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as the terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers.
  • hydrophobic group or unit is meant a radical with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • polymeric gelling agents are, for example, polymers or copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers.
  • examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular the "carbomers” (CTFA) sold under the name Carbopol® by the company GOODRICH or by the company LUBRIZOL. Mention may also be made of the polyglyceryl methacrylate sold by the company
  • GUARDIAN under the name Lubragel or even the polyglycerylacrylate marketed under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA or finally the polyacrylamide / C1 3-C14 lsoparaffin / Laureth7 mixture marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel.
  • the coloring composition A comprises a homopolymer of polyacrylic acid with the name INCI Carbomer.
  • the content of polymeric gelling agent in the coloring composition A of the invention will generally range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the coloring composition A of the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one additional coloring matter chosen from pigments, dyes and their mixtures.
  • the coloring material (s) can be chosen from water-soluble or non-soluble, liposoluble or not, organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
  • the term “coloring matter” is intended to mean a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in a sufficient amount in an appropriate cosmetic medium.
  • the dye (s) are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • pigments should be understood to mean colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase.
  • mineral pigments there may be mentioned, by way of example, black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.
  • water-soluble dyes mention may be made of Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, cochineal carmine (Cl 15850, Cl 75470).
  • the coloring composition A comprises at least one coloring matter chosen from direct dyes, preferably direct cationic dyes.
  • direct dyes are, for example, chosen from all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as neutral benzene, acid or cationic direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and particularly neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinones, direct azine, triarylmethane, indoamine dyes, methines, styriles, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes.
  • aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes such as neutral benzene, acid or cationic direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and particularly neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinones, direct azine, triarylmethane, indoamine dyes, methines, styriles, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins
  • the coloring composition A will comprise one or more cationic direct dyes. Mention may in particular be made of the following cationic direct dyes of INCI name: BASIC RED 76, BASIC YELLOW 57, HC BLUE NO. 15, and their mixtures.
  • the content of additional dyes, in particular direct dyes, in particular direct cationic dyes, in the dye composition A of the invention will go generally from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the color-revealing composition B comprises at least one iron salt and / or aluminum salt.
  • Iron salts in particular make it possible to obtain sought-after dark shades ranging from brown to black. These salts allow metal complexation on the keratin fiber, and in particular the eyebrow.
  • iron salts and / or aluminum salts is meant according to the invention the oxides of these metals and the actual salts derived in particular from the action of an acid on a metal.
  • the salts are not oxides.
  • halides such as chlorides, fluorides and iodides; sulfates, phosphates; nitrates; perchlorates and salts of carboxylic acids and polymer complexes which can support said salts, as well as their mixtures.
  • the carboxylic acid salts which can be used in the invention also include salts of hydroxylated carboxylic acids such as gluconate.
  • iron or aluminum salts there may be mentioned sulfates, gluconates, chlorides, lactates, acetates, glycinates, aspartates, and citrates.
  • alum that is to say one or more mixed sulphates of aluminum and of monovalent cation, chosen in particular from aluminum and potassium sulphate (potassium alum), aluminum and sodium sulfate (sodium alum), and aluminum and ammonium sulfate (ammonium alum).
  • iron gluconate potassium, sodium or ammonium alums and mixtures of these salts will be used.
  • the revealing composition B comprises at least one iron gluconate.
  • Mention may in particular be made of iron gluconate sold by the company Givaudan-Lavirotte under the name GIVOBIO Fe 601 or Gluconal FE from the company Glucona America, Inc.
  • the iron salt (s) and / or aluminum salt (s) used in the revealing composition B advantageously represent from 0.1% to 10 %%, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the iron salt and / or the aluminum salt preferably iron gluconate or an iron sulphate, more preferably iron gluconate, can be incorporated into the revealing composition B, but preferably it is added extemporaneously to revealing composition B, before application thereof on said keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows
  • the revealing composition B comprises at least one film-forming polymer.
  • This film-forming polymer makes it possible to improve the behavior of the coloring or make-up on keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows.
  • This film-forming polymer can in particular be chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers conventionally used in the hair field, or from film-forming polymers used in the field of mascaras.
  • the film-forming polymer is chosen from acrylic copolymers.
  • an aqueous dispersion of C1-C6 alkyl non-ionic film-forming polymer (meth) acrylate and in particular of polymer consisting essentially of one or more C1-C6 alkyl (meth) acrylates.
  • These polymers can be chosen from polymers of C1 -C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate, and in particular copolymers of C1 -C4 alkyl acrylate and C1 -C4 alkyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. .
  • C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate mention may be made of methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, propyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate.
  • a copolymer of ethyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate such as that sold under the name "DAITOSOL 5000 AD" by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO.
  • the film-forming polymer advantageously used in the revealing composition B can be present in a content ranging from 1% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight (of dry polymer extract) of the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention described above can be found independently of one another in various dosage forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a foam, a cream, an emulsion, a gel or under any other suitable form for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular the eyebrows.
  • the keratin fibers in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, and preferably the eyebrows, using a brush or a brush.
  • compositions used in the process according to the invention comprise a medium suitable for dyeing or making up keratin fibers, which may contain water, a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents.
  • compositions A and B used in the process according to the invention each comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.
  • organic solvent mention may, for example, be made of CC 4 mono-alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.
  • the organic solvents are generally present in the compositions of the invention in contents ranging from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the invention may also contain various adjuvants such as antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, pH adjusters otherwise called acidifying or basifying agents, dispersing agents, conditioning agents and their mixtures.
  • adjuvants such as antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, pH adjusters otherwise called acidifying or basifying agents, dispersing agents, conditioning agents and their mixtures.
  • the coloring composition A and / or the revealing composition B advantageously comprise a pH adjuster.
  • the pH of said compositions will range from 6 to 8.5, preferably from 7 to 8. According to a particular mode, the pH of the compositions ranges from 7 to 7.5.
  • the pH of the compositions used in the process according to the invention can thus be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics or even using conventional buffer systems.
  • acidifying agents of the compositions used in the invention mention may be made, for example, of citric acid.
  • an advantageous variant is to add an basifying agent to the composition or compositions of the process according to the invention, containing the (bi) carbonate (s). More particularly, this alkaline agent is chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium, and mixtures thereof.
  • this alkaline agent is chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition or compositions of the invention comprise alkaline bicarbonates, in particular sodium bicarbonate.
  • the coloring composition A and the revealing composition B are in the form of gels, preferably in the form of aqueous gels.
  • aqueous gels are characterized by an aqueous phase generally comprising water and water-soluble organic solvents as described above, and one or more gelling agents, preferably acrylic polymeric gelling agents.
  • compositions A and B by increasing their viscosity.
  • the viscosity of compositions A and B will range from 2000 cps to 10 OOOcps, preferably from 4000 cps to 7000 cps, measured with Rheolab with a mobile fin.
  • the coloring composition A comprises a polymeric gelling agent, as described above.
  • the polymeric gelling agent used according to the invention is not a natural polymeric gelling agent (ex: polysaccharides, celluloses, etc.).
  • the polymeric gelling agent according to the invention is an acrylic polymeric gelling agent.
  • These polymeric gelling agents are, for example, polymers or copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers.
  • Examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular the "carbomers" (CTFA) sold under the name Carbopol® by the company GOODRICH or by the company LUBRIZOL.
  • CTFA carboxyvinyl polymers
  • GUARDIAN under the name Lubragel or even the polyglycerylacrylate marketed under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA or finally the polyacrylamide / C1 3-C14 lsoparaffin / Laureth7 mixture marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel.
  • the coloring composition A comprises a homopolymer of polyacrylic acid with the name INCI Carbomer.
  • the content of polymeric gelling agent in the coloring composition A of the invention will generally range from 0.1% to 3 %% by weight, preferably from 1% to 2 %% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the revealing composition B comprises a hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent chosen from associative polymers.
  • This polymeric gelling agent in a revealing composition B in gel form makes it possible to improve the stability of the composition, in particular in contact with iron gluconate, capable of impacting the stability and / or the structure of said composition.
  • the revealing composition B in the form of an aqueous gel comprises at least one associative polymer.
  • associative polymer is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion.
  • the associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric. Preferably, it will be an associative anionic polymer.
  • B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical
  • n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100
  • R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl radicals, comprising 8 with 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • associative anionic polymers mention may also be made of terpolymers of maleic anhydride / C 3 oC 38 olefin / alkyl maleate such as the maleic anhydride / cc-olefin C 30 -C 38 / maleate copolymer product. isopropyl sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.
  • the associative anionic polymers comprising, among their monomers, an a, (3-monoethylenically unsaturated) carboxylic acid and an a, b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and Oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol
  • these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of a, b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of C1-C4 alcohol.
  • this type of compound examples include Aculyn 22 ® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated (comprising 20 EO units) or 'ACULYN 28 (terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene (25 EO).
  • Aculyn 22 ® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated (comprising 20 EO units) or 'ACULYN 28 (terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene (25 EO).
  • anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type.
  • anionic associative polymers mention may also be made of anionic terpolymers.
  • the anionic terpolymer can be a linear or branched and / or crosslinked terpolymer of at least one monomer (1) carrying an acid function in free form, partially or totally salified with a nonionic monomer (2) chosen from NN. dimethylacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one polyoxyethylenated alkyl acrylate monomer (3) of formula (II) below:
  • R1 represents a hydrogen atom
  • R represents a linear or branched C 2 -C 8 alkyl radical
  • n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10.
  • branched polymer is meant a non-linear polymer which has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a strong state of entanglement leading to viscosities, at low speed gradient very important.
  • crosslinked polymer is meant a non-linear polymer in the state of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water but swellable with water and leading to the production of a chemical gel.
  • the acid function of the monomer (1) is in particular the sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid function, said functions being in free form, partially or totally salified.
  • the monomer (1) can be chosen from styrenesulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid or 2-methyl1-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (also called Acryloyldimethyltaurate) , partially or totally salified. It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10% and 90 molar.
  • the monomer (1) will be more particularly acid 2 -methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1 - propanesulfonic in free form, partially or totally salified.
  • the acid function in partially or fully salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt or else a salt of amino acid such as a lysine salt.
  • an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt or else a salt of amino acid such as a lysine salt.
  • the monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 4.9% and 90 mol% and more particularly between 9.5% and 85% molar and even more particularly between 19.5% and 75 % molar.
  • formula (II) as an example of a linear C 8 -C 16 alkyl radical, there may be mentioned octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl.
  • formula (II) as an example of a C 8 -C 16 branched alkyl radical, mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2hexyldecyl, 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6 -methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16-methylheptadecyl, 2-hexyloctyl.
  • R denotes a C12-C16 alkyl radical.
  • n varies from 3 to 5.
  • monomer of formula (II) of tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate.
  • the monomer (3) of formula (II) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 0.1% and 10 mol% and more particularly between 0.5% and 5 mol%.
  • the anionic terpolymer is crosslinked and / or branched with a diethylene or polyethylene compound in the proportion expressed relative to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005% to 1 mol% and preferably from 0.01% to 0.5 mol% and more particularly from 0.01% to 0.25% molar.
  • the crosslinking agent and / or the branching agent is preferably chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxoacetic acid or one of its salts, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis- (acrylamide) or their mixtures.
  • the anionic terpolymer can contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents, chain-limiting agents.
  • composition B Use will be made more particularly in composition B revealing the invention of an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of a salt.
  • the hydrophilic gelling polymer in particular the anionic associative polymer present in the revealing composition B, will be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • compositions A and B can be applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, preferably the eyebrows, separately and in particular sequentially, whatever their order of application (application of composition A then of composition B or application of composition B then of composition A).
  • the coloring composition A is applied before the revealing composition B.
  • the keratin fibers, preferably the eyebrows, may or may not be previously moistened.
  • the coloring composition A will be applied to keratin fibers not previously moistened.
  • the keratin fibers may or may not be previously treated with an oxidizing agent.
  • the coloring composition A will be applied to keratin fibers which are not previously treated with an oxidizing agent.
  • the coloring composition A will be applied to keratin fibers previously treated with an oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
  • compositions A and B can be preceded or followed by a step of rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers.
  • the method does not comprise a rinsing and / or drying step before the application of compositions A and B.
  • the method nevertheless comprises a final rinsing step after application of composition B .
  • the exposure time after application of the coloring composition A generally varies from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 10 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 6 minutes.
  • the exposure time after application of the revealing composition B generally varies from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 5 minutes.
  • Compositions A and B are generally applied at room temperature.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, in which:
  • the coloring composition A is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 1 minutes to 6 minutes
  • the revealing composition B is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 5 minutes
  • composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B, said keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, then being, in a final step and optionally, rinsed.
  • the coloring composition A is applied before the revealing composition B.
  • the coloring composition A is applied to keratin fibers which are not previously treated with an oxidizing agent.
  • the coloring composition A is applied to keratin fibers previously treated with an oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.
  • the pre-treatment time with the oxidizing agent will generally range from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes.
  • an intermediate rinsing step and optionally drying is carried out between the pre-treatment step with the oxidizing agent and the treatment step with the coloring composition.
  • the invention also relates to a kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments and comprising:
  • the revealing composition B as defined in the invention, and characterized in that it does not include the iron and / or aluminum salt, and
  • the iron and / or aluminum salt intended to be mixed extemporaneously with the revealing composition B before application to the keratin fibers,
  • composition C comprising an oxidizing agent for a pretreatment of the keratin fibers before treatment with the compositions A and B,
  • the kit or device according to the invention comprises:
  • the coloring composition A as defined in the invention; in another separate compartment, the revealing composition B as defined in the invention and characterized in that it comprises the iron and / or aluminum salt,
  • composition C comprising an oxidizing agent for a pretreatment of the keratin fibers before treatment with the compositions A and B,
  • the kit or device according to the invention comprises:
  • a natural dye chosen from the group consisting of log extract, chestnut extract, Sorghum extract, pine extract, tea extract, gall nut extract, cocoa extract, Brasiletto extract , and mixtures thereof;
  • composition B comprising
  • compositions A and B are as described above.
  • compositions A and B are in the form of an aqueous gel, the composition A comprising an aqueous phase gelled by a carboxyvinyl polymer and the composition B comprising an aqueous phase gelled by an associative polymer, in particular an associative anionic polymer.
  • the compositions of the kit are packaged in separate compartments, possibly accompanied by appropriate means of application, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.
  • the kit comprises a brush or a brush for applying the compositions of the invention.
  • the coloring composition A is prepared according to the following procedure:
  • dimethyl isosorbide, glycerol, sodium metabisulfite and preservatives are mixed with water with stirring;
  • the carbomer (gelling agent) is then added to the previous phase and mixed until complete dissolution;
  • the logwood extract is then added and mixed until complete dissolution; finally the alkyl glucoside surfactant and water are added and the gel thus obtained is homogenized;
  • Disclosure composition B comprising iron gluconate
  • the revealing composition B is prepared according to the following procedure:
  • the gelling agent is then added until perfect dissolution and formation of the gel
  • iron gluconate is added immediately to composition B, before application of the product to the eyebrows
  • the revealing composition B is then applied to the eyebrows using a brush or a brush, with an exposure time of 2 minutes;
  • a brown color is obtained on the eyebrows with good resistance over time.
  • Example 2 Selection of penetration booster agents, alone or in combination
  • the Applicant has shown that the use of one or more penetration booster agent (s) makes it possible to improve the color result on the eyebrows and its hold over time. It tested various agents including phospholipids, ceramides, saponins, fatty acids and selected from among the best performing agents, in particular dimethyl isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI from Univar) and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol ® HE from BASF ). The results presented below illustrate the effect of phospholipids and dimethyl isosorbide respectively.
  • Composition A1 log extract + DMI 2%
  • Composition A2 extract of logwood + cationic dyes (low quantity) without DMI
  • Composition A3 extract of logwood + lecithin (phospholipid) 1%
  • Composition B comprising iron gluconate
  • compositions A1 to A3 are prepared according to example 1 and composition B corresponds to the example described in example 1.
  • compositions A1 to A4 are applied for 4 minutes.
  • Composition B is applied for 2 minutes.
  • the effect of the presence or absence of the color penetration booster agent in the coloring composition A is evaluated by carrying out observations under a microscope on sections of keratin fibers treated or not treated with said compositions (FIG. 1).
  • An untreated fiber is characterized by a white halo (white rim) while a treated (colored) fiber is characterized by a black halo. The thicker this halo, the deeper the color diffusion in the keratin fiber.
  • Figure 1a corresponds to the untreated condition; a thicker colored halo is observed in FIG. 1 b (treated with a composition A1 comprising DMI), compared to the treatments with cationic dyes without DMI (FIG. 1 c) or phospholipids (FIG. 1 d).
  • dimethyl isosorbide promotes and / or increases the penetration of the natural dye (logwood) into keratin fibers in an improved manner compared to phospholipids.
  • compositions similar to those described in Example 1 are reproduced; two natural dyes are used in a total content of 5%, namely a logwood extract (Logwood extract from SCRD) and a chestnut extract (for example, that of the company Couelles de plantes) in a 60/40 proportion (60 % log extract and 40% chestnut extract).
  • a logwood extract Logwood extract from SCRD
  • a chestnut extract for example, that of the company Couelles de plantes
  • the DMI is replaced by water.
  • the two compositions are evaluated at T0, T3, T7, T9 and T21 (expressed in days) according to the color parameters L (intensity) and delta E1 (color fastness over time) using and the apparatus.
  • photo capture Visia
  • image analysis software Visilog.
  • Delta E0 (DE0) V ((L0-Li) 2 + (a0-ai) 2 + (b0-bi) 2 ) and
  • Delta E1 (DE1) V ((L1 -Li) 2 + (a1-ai) 2 + (b1-bi) 2 )
  • the hold of the product is validated when there is a difference between the time before application and the other measurement times for the parameters L * and DeltaEI.
  • Example 2.1 is repeated, replacing the DMI with 1% of PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol HE).
  • the coloring composition A is applied with an exposure time of 6 minutes. According to an alternative, it is applied with an exposure time of 3 minutes.
  • Example 3 Effect of an oxidizing pretreatment on the coloring or makeup result
  • Composition A1 log extract + DMI 1%
  • Composition A2 log extract + Cetiol HE 1%
  • Composition A3 extract of logwood alone
  • Composition A4 log extract + DMI 1% + Cetiol HE 1%
  • Composition B comprising iron gluconate
  • compositions A1 to A4 are prepared according to example 1 and composition B corresponds to the example described in example 1.
  • compositions A1 to A4 are applied for 4 or 6 minutes.
  • Composition B is applied for 2 minutes.
  • compositions are tested with or without pre-treatment of keratin fibers (hair and eyebrows) with an oxidizing agent, in particular 12% hydrogen peroxide.
  • an oxidizing agent in particular 12% hydrogen peroxide.
  • the pre-treatment with the oxidizing agent is carried out for 2 minutes or for 10 minutes. This oxidizing pre-treatment will allow, by opening the cuticles or scales of the keratin fibers, to promote better penetration of the coloring agents.
  • the effect of the oxidizing pre-treatment and the presence or absence of the color penetration booster agent in the coloring composition A are evaluated by carrying out observations under a microscope on sections of treated / untreated keratin fibers.
  • a fiber not treated with the oxidizing agent is characterized by a white halo (white rim) while a treated (colored) fiber is characterized by a black halo. The thicker this halo, the deeper the color diffusion in the keratin fiber.
  • na not determined (not measured)
  • the coloring composition A is prepared according to the following procedure: - dimethyl isosorbide, glycerol, sodium metabisulfite and preservatives are mixed with water with stirring;
  • Composition A is prepared according to the protocol described above.
  • Composition A coloring with an extract of red wood, an extract of chestnut and an extract of logwood
  • DMI Dimethyl isosorbide
  • Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 30
  • composition B comprising iron qluconate
  • the revealing composition B is prepared according to the following procedure:
  • composition B the iron gluconate is added extemporaneously to composition B, before application of the product to the eyebrows
  • composition A The protocol for coloring or making up the eyebrows successively using composition A and composition B described above is as follows:
  • composition A in a thick layer, carefully following the eyebrow line so to cover all the hairs well (Exposure time: 4 min. Do not wipe the product)
  • composition B add the iron gluconate to the white jar containing composition B and mix until there is no more grain
  • composition B thus prepared extemporaneously in a thick layer over composition A, carefully following the eyebrow line so as to cover all the hairs (Exposure time: 2 min. During this time, correct if necessary eyebrow contour using a cotton swab).
  • a brown color is obtained on the eyebrows with good resistance over time.

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Abstract

The present invention concerns a cosmetic method for dyeing or making up keratin fibres, in particular eyelashes and/or eyebrows and preferably eyebrows, comprising the application, to the keratin fibres, of at least: a) A dyeing cosmetic composition A comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye(s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, and/or proanthocyanidins and the derivatives of same and the mixtures thereof, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing same, and advantageously an antioxidant, b) A revealing cosmetic composition B comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one iron salt and/or one aluminium salt, in particular an iron gluconate or an iron sulphate, composition A being applied before or after composition B, and preferably before composition B.

Description

Procédé de coloration ou maquillage des sourcils Method for coloring or making up the eyebrows
DOMAINE DE L'INVENTION FIELD OF THE INVENTION
La présente invention concerne le domaine de la coloration ou du maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cils et/ou des sourcils et de préférence les sourcils. The present invention relates to the field of coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows.
ETAT DE LA TECHNIQUE STATE OF THE ART
On connaît de l’art antérieur des compositions de coloration ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier la peau ou les cheveux comprenant des colorants naturels, en particulier des extraits végétaux comprenant des polyphénols. Les procédés de coloration utilisant des produits naturels, plus respectueux de la nature des fibres et de l’environnement, sont en effet de plus en plus appréciés des utilisateurs. Cependant le résultat coloration ou maquillage, en particulier lorsqu’il s’agit de fibres kératiniques, n’est pas toujours satisfaisant en terme d’intensité et/ou homogénéité et/ou tenue dans le temps. Known from the prior art are compositions for coloring or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin or the hair, comprising natural dyes, in particular plant extracts comprising polyphenols. Dyeing processes using natural products, which are more respectful of the nature of the fibers and the environment, are in fact increasingly appreciated by users. However, the coloring or makeup result, in particular when it comes to keratin fibers, is not always satisfactory in terms of intensity and / or homogeneity and / or resistance over time.
Il subsiste donc le besoin de développer de nouvelles compositions et procédés de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cils et/ou des sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, comprenant des colorants naturels à base de polyphénols, avec des propriétés chromatiques améliorées (intensité et homogénéité de la couleur) et qui soient résistantes aux lavages, à la transpiration et/ou au sébum. There therefore remains a need to develop new compositions and methods for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising natural dyes based on polyphenols, with improved chromatic properties ( intensity and homogeneity of the color) and which are resistant to washing, perspiration and / or sebum.
La Demanderesse a justement découvert qu’il était possible d’améliorer l’efficacité de compositions de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des sourcils en mettant en oeuvre des extraits végétaux particuliers et des sels de fer et/ou sels d’aluminium, en particulier du gluconate de fer. Elle a notamment mis en évidence que l’utilisation d’agents boosters de pénétration spécifiques permettait d’améliorer l’intensité et la tenue de la couleur dans le temps. The Applicant has rightly discovered that it was possible to improve the effectiveness of compositions for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyebrows by using specific plant extracts and iron salts and / or aluminum salts , especially iron gluconate. In particular, it highlighted that the use of specific penetration boosters improves the intensity and color fastness over time.
La Demanderesse a également mis en évidence, pour des compositions de coloration ou maquillage sous forme de gels comprenant du gluconate de fer, que l’utilisation d’un copolymère acrylate particulier était avantageuse pour la stabilité et la texture des compositions. The Applicant has also demonstrated, for coloring or make-up compositions in the form of gels comprising iron gluconate, that the use of a particular acrylate copolymer was advantageous for the stability and the texture of the compositions.
EXPOSE DE L'INVENTION STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION
Un premier objet de l’invention est donc un procédé cosmétique de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, comprenant l’application sur lesdites fibres kératiniques, d’au moins : a) Une composition cosmétique A colorante comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, un ou plusieurs colorant(s) naturel(s) choisi(s) dans le groupe constitué par les néoflavonoïdes, les tanins galliques et tanins catéchiques, les proanthocyanidines et leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges, ou de préférence un ou plusieurs extraits végétaux en contenant, et avantageusement un agent antioxydant, b) Une composition cosmétique B révélatrice comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un sel de fer et/ou un sel d’aluminium, en particulier un gluconate de fer ou un sulfate de fer, la composition A étant appliquée avant ou après la composition B, de préférence avant la composition B. A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic process for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising the application to said keratin fibers, of at least: a) A cosmetic composition A dye comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives , and mixtures thereof, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing them, and advantageously an antioxidant agent, b) A revealing cosmetic composition B comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one iron salt and / or one salt aluminum, in particular an iron gluconate or an iron sulphate, composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition A comprend en outre un agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, choisis parmi les éthers bicycliques, les esters d’acides gras comprenant des chaînes hydrocarbonées en C6 à C18 polyéthoxylées, et leurs mélanges, de préférence les éthers bicycliques, chaque cycle du bicycle comprenant un nombre n de chaînons compris entre 3 et 10, les esters d’acides gras comportant une chaîne hydrocarbonée en C6 à C18, saturée ou insaturée, linéaire ou ramifiée à l’aide d’autres chaînes hydrocarbonées en C6 à C18, chacune des chaînes hydrocarbonées étant polyéthoxylée, avec un degré d’éthoxylation d’au moins 2, notamment de 2 à 12, et leurs mélanges, de préférence encore le dimethyl isosorbide. le PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, et leur mélange. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, composition A further comprises an agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, chosen from bicyclic ethers , fatty acid esters comprising polyethoxylated C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, and their mixtures, preferably bicyclic ethers, each cycle of the bicycle comprising a number n of links between 3 and 10, the fatty acid esters comprising a C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched using other C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, each of the hydrocarbon chains being polyethoxylated, with a degree of ethoxylation of at least 2, in particular of 2 to 12, and mixtures thereof, more preferably dimethyl isosorbide. PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and their mixture.
L’invention porte également sur un kit ou dispositif de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, à plusieurs compartiments séparés et comprenant : The invention also relates to a kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments and comprising:
dans un compartiment, la composition A colorante telle que définie dans l’invention dans un autre compartiment séparé la composition B révélatrice telle que définie dans l’invention et caractérisée en ce qu’elle ne comprend pas le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium, et in a compartment, the coloring composition A as defined in the invention in another separate compartment the revealing composition B as defined in the invention and characterized in that it does not include the iron salt and / or aluminum, and
dans un autre compartiment séparé, le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium destiné à être mélangé extemporanément à la composition B révélatrice avant application sur les fibres kératiniques, in another separate compartment, the iron and / or aluminum salt intended to be mixed extemporaneously with the revealing composition B before application to the keratin fibers,
et avantageusement une notice d’utilisation. Selon une alternative, le kit ou dispositif de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, à plusieurs compartiments séparés comprend : and advantageously an instruction manual. According to an alternative, the kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments comprises:
dans un compartiment, la composition A colorante telle que définie dans l’invention ; in a compartment, the coloring composition A as defined in the invention;
dans un autre compartiment séparé la composition B révélatrice telle que définie dans l’invention et caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium, in another separate compartment, the revealing composition B as defined in the invention and characterized in that it comprises the iron and / or aluminum salt,
et avantageusement une notice d’utilisation. and advantageously a user manual.
Les kits selon l’invention pourront également comprendre, de façon optionnelle, dans un autre compartiment séparé une composition C comprenant un agent oxydant pour un pré traitement des fibres kératiniques avant traitement par les compositions A et B. On sait en effet qu’un agent oxydant tel que le peroxyde d’hydrogène produit une légère altération des cuticules ou écailles, partie extérieure des fibres kératiniques, permettant une ouverture de celles-ci et par conséquent une meilleure pénétration des actifs. Dans le contexte de l’invention, l’utilisation d’un pré-traitement avec un agent oxydant permet de favoriser une meilleure pénétration des agents colorants. The kits according to the invention may also optionally comprise, in another separate compartment, a composition C comprising an oxidizing agent for pretreatment of the keratin fibers before treatment with compositions A and B. It is in fact known that an agent oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide produces a slight alteration of the cuticles or scales, outer part of the keratin fibers, allowing them to open and therefore better penetration of the active ingredients. In the context of the invention, the use of a pre-treatment with an oxidizing agent makes it possible to promote better penetration of the coloring agents.
DESCRIPTION DETAILLEE DE L'INVENTION DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
La présente invention concerne donc un procédé cosmétique de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, comprenant l’application sur lesdites fibres kératiniques, d’au moins : The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic process for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising the application to said keratin fibers, of at least:
a) Une composition cosmétique A colorante comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, un ou plusieurs colorant(s) naturel(s) choisi(s) dans le groupe constitué par les néoflavonoïdes, les tanins galliques et tanins catéchiques, les proanthocyanidines et leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges, ou de préférence un ou plusieurs extraits végétaux en contenant, et avantageusement un agent antioxydant, b) Une composition cosmétique B révélatrice comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un sel de fer et/ou un sel d’aluminium, en particulier un gluconate de fer ou un sulfate de fer, la composition A étant appliquée avant ou après la composition B, de préférence avant la composition B. Pré-traitement oxydant (optionnel) a) A cosmetic composition A dye comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives , and mixtures thereof, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing them, and advantageously an antioxidant agent, b) A revealing cosmetic composition B comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one iron salt and / or one salt aluminum, in particular an iron gluconate or an iron sulphate, composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B. Oxidative pre-treatment (optional)
Selon un premier mode de réalisation de l’invention, les compositions A et B ne contiennent pas d’agent oxydant et les fibres kératiniques ne sont pas traitées, avant ou après traitement par les compositions A et B, par un agent oxydant. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the compositions A and B do not contain an oxidizing agent and the keratin fibers are not treated, before or after treatment with the compositions A and B, with an oxidizing agent.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation, on pré-traite les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, avec un agent oxydant, avant l’application desdites compositions A et B. Comme indiqué ci-dessus, ce pré-traitement oxydant permet d’ouvrir les écailles des fibres kératiniques et permettre ainsi de favoriser la pénétration des agents colorants. According to another embodiment, the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, are pretreated with an oxidizing agent, before the application of said compositions A and B. As indicated above , this oxidizing pretreatment makes it possible to open the scales of the keratin fibers and thus make it possible to promote the penetration of the coloring agents.
L’agent oxydant peut être choisi parmi le groupe formé par le peroxyde d'hydrogène, le peroxyde d'urée, les bromates ou ferricyanures de métaux alcalins, les sels peroxygénés comme par exemple les persulfates, les perborates, les peracides et leurs précurseurs et les percarbonates de métaux alcalins ou alcalino- terreux. De préférence on utilise le peroxyde d’hydrogène. The oxidizing agent can be chosen from the group formed by hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromates or ferricyanides of alkali metals, peroxygenated salts such as for example persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates. Preferably, hydrogen peroxide is used.
En particulier, on applique sur les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, une composition C de pré-traitement comprenant du peroxyde d’hydrogène comme agent oxydant, avant l’application des compositions colorante A et révélatrice B. La Demanderesse a en effet montré qu’un pré-traitement avec un agent oxydant permettait d’améliorer l’intensité et la tenue de la couleur dans le temps. In particular, a pretreatment composition C comprising hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, before the application of the coloring compositions A and revealing B. The Applicant has indeed shown that a pre-treatment with an oxidizing agent makes it possible to improve the intensity and the color fastness over time.
L’agent oxydant peut être présent dans la composition C de prétraitement en une teneur allant de 1 à 15% en poids, de préférence de 1 à 12% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. The oxidizing agent may be present in the pretreatment composition C in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
En particulier, la composition comprend de 1 à 12% en poids de peroxyde d’hydrogène ou, en volumes, de 3 volumes à 40 volumes de la composition totale. In particular, the composition comprises from 1 to 12% by weight of hydrogen peroxide or, by volume, from 3 volumes to 40 volumes of the total composition.
Composition cosmétique A colorante Cosmetic composition A coloring
La composition cosmétique A colorante selon l’invention comprend un ou plusieurs colorant(s) naturel(s) choisis dans le groupe constitué par les néoflavonoïdes, les tanins galliques et tanins catéchiques, les proanthocyanidines et leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges, ou de préférence un ou plusieurs extraits végétaux en contenant. En particulier, le ou les colorants naturels convenant à l’invention peuvent être choisis parmi l'hématoxyline, l'hématéine, la braziléine, la braziline, l’acide gallique, la catéchine, la castalagine, la vescalagine, les procyanidines, et leurs mélanges. Extraits végétaux comprenant des polyphénols The cosmetic composition A dye according to the invention comprises one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing it. In particular, the natural dye or dyes suitable for the invention can be chosen from hematoxylin, hematinin, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagin, vescalagin, procyanidins, and their mixtures. Plant extracts comprising polyphenols
Les extraits végétaux utilisables selon l’invention sont des extraits végétaux comprenant au moins des polyphénols choisis dans le groupe constitué par les néoflavonoïdes, les tanins galliques et tanins catéchiques, les proanthocyanidines et leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges. Ces polyphénols sont majoritaires dans la composition desdits extraits végétaux. The plant extracts which can be used according to the invention are plant extracts comprising at least polyphenols chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives, and their mixtures. These polyphenols are predominant in the composition of said plant extracts.
En particulier, les extraits végétaux convenant à l’invention sont choisis parmi les extraits végétaux contenant au moins un colorant choisi dans le groupe constitué parmi l'hématoxyline, l'hématéine, la braziléine, la braziline, l’acide gallique, la catéchine, la castalagine, la vescalagine, les procyanidines. In particular, the plant extracts which are suitable for the invention are chosen from plant extracts containing at least one colorant chosen from the group consisting of hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagine, vescalagine, procyanidins.
On peut notamment utiliser les extraits végétaux suivants (genre et espèces) : The following plant extracts (genus and species) can in particular be used:
- extraits de campêche ( Haematoxylon campechianum) ou de brasiletto (Haematoxylon brasiletto) contenant notamment des tanins galliques (ou gallotanins) et des flavonoïdes/néoflavonoïdes ; - extract of logwood (Haematoxylon campechianum) or brasiletto (Haematoxylon brasiletto) containing in particular gallic tannins (or gallotanins) and flavonoids / neoflavonoids;
- extrait de châtaignier (Castanea sativa) contenant notamment des tanins hydrolysables de type ellagitanins comme la vescalagine et la castalagine et des tanins galliques tels que les monomères d’acide gallique et dérivés ; - chestnut extract (Castanea sativa) containing in particular hydrolysable tannins of the ellagitannin type such as vescalagine and castalagine and gallic tannins such as the monomers of gallic acid and derivatives;
- extraits de noix de Galle (Rhus semialata gall extract) ou d’écorce d’Anogeissus contenant notamment de l’elagitanine de type acide gallique et dérivés ;- Galle nut extracts (Rhus semialata gall extract) or Anogeissus bark containing in particular elagitanine of the gallic acid type and derivatives;
- extraits de thé, de pin ou de vigne comprenant notamment des tanins condensés de type proanthocyanidines et en particulier catéchine et leurs dérivés catéchiques pour le thé et la vigne (OPC oligomeres procyanidoliques) ;- tea, pine or vine extracts comprising in particular condensed tannins of the proanthocyanidin type and in particular catechin and their catechic derivatives for tea and the vine (OPC procyanidolic oligomers);
- extrait de cacao ; - cocoa extract;
- extrait de sorgho contenant notamment des anthocyanes et des tanins galliques et catéchiques ; - sorghum extract containing in particular anthocyanins and gallic and catechic tannins;
- extrait de myrobalan (Terminalia chebula fruit extract) contenant notamment de l’acide gallique - myrobalan extract (Terminalia chebula fruit extract) containing in particular gallic acid
extraits d’hibiscus et de fraisier contenant notamment des anthocyanes, et leurs mélanges. extracts of hibiscus and strawberry including anthocyanins, and mixtures thereof.
Ainsi selon un mode particulier de l’invention, la composition A colorante comprend un colorant naturel choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'hématoxyline, l'hématéine, la braziléine, la braziline, l’acide gallique, la catéchine, la castalagine, la vescalagine, et/ou les procyanidines et leurs mélanges, ou un extrait végétal en contenant, en particulier un extrait végétal choisi dans le groupe constitué par un extrait de campêche, un extrait de bois rouge, un extrait de châtaignier, un extrait de noix de Galle ( Rhus semialata gall extract), un extrait d’écorce d’Anogeissus un extrait de pin, un extrait de thé, un extrait de vigne, un extrait de Sorgho, un extrait de cacao, un extrait de myrobalan, un extrait d’hibiscus, un extrait de fraisier et leurs mélanges, de préférence un extrait de campêche, un extrait de bois rouge, un extrait de châtaignier, et leurs mélanges. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring composition A comprises a natural dye chosen from the group consisting of hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagin, vescalagin, and / or procyanidins and their mixtures, or a plant extract containing them, in particular a plant extract chosen from the group consisting of a log extract, a red wood extract, chestnut extract, gall nut extract (Rhus semialata gall extract), Anogeissus bark extract pine extract, tea extract, vine extract, Sorghum extract , a cocoa extract, a myrobalan extract, a hibiscus extract, a strawberry extract and their mixtures, preferably a log extract, a red wood extract, a chestnut extract, and their mixtures.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition A colorante comprend au moins un extrait végétal choisi parmi un extrait de campêche, un extrait de châtaignier, un extrait de bois rouge, et leurs mélanges. According to a particular and preferred mode, the coloring composition A comprises at least one plant extract chosen from an extract of logwood, an extract of chestnut, an extract of red wood, and their mixtures.
Les extraits sont obtenus par extraction de diverses parties de plantes, telles que par exemple la racine, le bois, l'écorce ou la feuille. The extracts are obtained by extracting various parts of plants, such as for example the root, the wood, the bark or the leaf.
En particulier, on utilise un extrait issu des bois de campêche, de bois ou écorce de châtaignier, de feuille ou tige de sorgho, d’écorce de pin, de feuille de thé, de noix de Galle, de fève de cacao, de bois ou écorce de bois rouge et leurs mélanges. In particular, an extract from logwood, wood or chestnut bark, sorghum leaf or stem, pine bark, tea leaf, gall nut, cocoa bean, wood is used. or red wood bark and mixtures thereof.
Selon un premier mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend au moins un extrait de campêche. En particulier, on utilise l’extrait de Campêche (Hematoxylon Campechianum) de la société SCRD ou ‘Logwood extract’ également connu sous la dénomination Hematin N0200. Il s’agit d’une poudre de couleur brun foncé à bordeaux comprenant 20-40% d’hématoxyline (polyphénol de type néoflavonoïde) en poids d’extrait sec. Il s’agit d’un colorant végétal pur d’extraction non oxydé obtenu à partir du bois de Campeche. Le degré d’oxydation provient de l’oxydation naturelle de l’Hématoxyline contenue dans le produit sans aucune oxydation chimique. According to a first particular mode, the coloring composition A comprises at least one extract of logwood. In particular, use is made of Campeche extract (Hematoxylon Campechianum) from the company SCRD or également Logwood extract ’also known under the name Hematin N0200. It is a dark brown burgundy powder comprising 20-40% hematoxylin (polyphenol neoflavonoid type) by weight of dry extract. It is a pure vegetable dye of non-oxidized extraction obtained from Campeche wood. The degree of oxidation comes from the natural oxidation of the Hematoxylin contained in the product without any chemical oxidation.
L’extrait de Campeche est constitué principalement du colorant Hématoxyline, des glucosides et tanins plus ou moins condensés. La structure chimique des deux principes colorants, Hématoxyline et Hématéine, permet leur classement dans le groupe des néoflavonoïdes. La gamme des couleurs que l’on peut obtenir avec L’extrait de Campeche est l’une des plus étendues de la teinture végétale. Campeche extract consists mainly of the Hematoxylin dye, more or less condensed glucosides and tannins. The chemical structure of the two coloring principles, Hematoxylin and Hematein, allows them to be classified in the group of neoflavonoids. The range of colors that can be obtained with Campeche extract is one of the most extensive in vegetable dye.
Selon un autre mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend au moins un extrait de bois ou écorce de châtaignier de nom INCI Castanea sativa (chestnut) bark extract. L’écorce et le bois de châtaignier contiennent notamment huit composés polyphénoliques, dont les ellagitanins, castaline, vescalagine, castalagine, acutissimine A, kurigaline, chestanine. On peut notamment utiliser un extrait de bois de châtaignier obtenu par extraction aqueuse du bois, filtration, concentration et séchage et tel que commercialisé par la société Couleurs de plantes. According to another particular mode, the coloring composition A comprises at least one extract of wood or chestnut bark of INCI name Castanea sativa (chestnut) bark extract. The bark and the chestnut wood contain in particular eight polyphenolic compounds, including ellagitannins, castaline, vescalagine, castalagine, acutissimine A, kurigaline, chestanine. One can in particular use an extract of chestnut wood obtained by aqueous extraction of the wood, filtration, concentration and drying and as marketed by the company Couleurs de plantes.
Selon un autre mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend au moins un extrait de bois ou écorce de Brasiletto (ou bois rouge). Le Bois Rouge (Haematoxylum Brasiletto ou Brasilensis) est un petit arbre (2 à 12 mètres) communément présent dans toute l’Amérique Centrale. L’extrait de bois de Brasiletto ou bois rouge est riche en Bréziline (sa forme oxydéee est la Braziléine). On peut utiliser notamment un extrait de Brasiletto commercialisé par la société SCRD. According to another particular mode, the coloring composition A comprises at least one extract of wood or bark of Brasiletto (or red wood). The Redwood (Haematoxylum Brasiletto or Brasilensis) is a small tree (2 to 12 meters) commonly found throughout Central America. The extract of Brasiletto wood or red wood is rich in Bréziline (its oxidized form is Braziléine). One can use in particular an extract of Brasiletto sold by the company SCRD.
La composition A colorante peut également comprendre un mélange d’extraits végétaux selon l’invention, en fonction de la teinte recherchée. Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend un mélange d’extrait de campêche et d’extrait de châtaignier. The coloring composition A can also comprise a mixture of plant extracts according to the invention, depending on the desired shade. According to a particular mode, the coloring composition A comprises a mixture of logwood extract and chestnut extract.
Le ou les colorants naturels ou le ou les extraits végétaux en contenant sont présents dans la composition A colorante de l’invention en une teneur totale allant de 0,1 à 10%, de préférence de 2 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. L’homme du métier saura adapter la teneur totale en extraits végétaux à utiliser dans la composition en fonction de l’effet recherché et de la nature et des teneurs en colorant(s) naturel(s) desdits extraits. The natural dye (s) or the plant extract (s) containing it are present in the dye composition A of the invention in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition. A person skilled in the art will know how to adapt the total content of plant extracts to be used in the composition according to the desired effect and to the nature and content of natural dye (s) of said extracts.
Agent anti-oxydant (agent réducteur d’oxydation) Antioxidant agent (oxidation reducing agent)
La composition A colorante comprend également avantageusement au moins un agent antioxydant (autrement nommé agent réducteur d’oxydation). Cet agent antioxydant permet à la fois de protéger l’extrait végétal de l’oxydation et d’agir au niveau de la fibre kératinique et en particulier du sourcil pour casser les ponts disulfures et améliorer ainsi la coloration. The coloring composition A also advantageously comprises at least one antioxidant agent (otherwise called oxidation reducing agent). This antioxidant agent both protects the plant extract from oxidation and acts on the keratin fiber and in particular on the eyebrow to break the disulphide bridges and thus improve coloring.
L’agent antioxydant peut être choisi notamment parmi les sulfites, les bisulfites, les thiols et les phosphines, de préférence les sulfites et bisulfites de métaux alcalins ou alcalino- terreux. On peut citer en particulier le sulfite ou le bisulfite de sodium. The antioxidant agent can be chosen in particular from sulfites, bisulfites, thiols and phosphines, preferably sulfites and bisulfites of alkali or alkaline earth metals. Mention may in particular be made of sodium sulfite or bisulfite.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition A colorante comprend un bisulfite de sodium (sodium métabisulfite) comme agent antioxydant. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the coloring composition A comprises a sodium bisulfite (sodium metabisulfite) as an antioxidant agent.
L’agent antioxydant pourra être présent dans la composition A colorante en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 0,5%, de préférence de 0,05 à 0,1 % en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition Agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant (autrement nommé‘booster de pénétration’) The antioxidant agent may be present in the coloring composition A in a content ranging from 0.01 to 0.5%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition Agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the dye (otherwise called 'penetration booster')
Selon un mode particulier et préféré de l’invention, la composition A comprend en outre un agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils. According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, composition A further comprises an agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows.
La Demanderesse a en effet montré, comme illustré dans les exemples ci-après que l’utilisation de certains agents augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans la fibre kératinique, permettait d’améliorer les propriétés de coloration ou sa tenue dans le temps. On parle indifféremment d’agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel ou agent‘booster’ de pénétration du colorant naturel. The Applicant has indeed shown, as illustrated in the examples below, that the use of certain agents increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fiber, makes it possible to improve the coloring properties or its resistance over time. We speak indifferently of agent favoring and / or increasing the penetration of natural dye or agent “booster” of penetration of natural dye.
Cet agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans la fibre kératinique et en particulier le sourcil, est distinct de l’alcool benzylique. This agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fiber and in particular the eyebrow, is distinct from benzyl alcohol.
Cet agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans la fibre kératinique et en particulier le sourcil est notamment choisi parmi les éthers bicycliques, les esters d’acides gras comprenant des chaînes hydrocarbonées en C6 à C18 polyéthoxylées, et leurs mélanges. This agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fiber and in particular the eyebrow is in particular chosen from bicyclic ethers, fatty acid esters comprising C6 to C18 polyethoxylated hydrocarbon chains, and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, l’agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans la fibre kératinique est choisi parmi des éthers bicycliques, chaque cycle du bicycle comprenant un nombre n de chaînons compris entre 3 et 10, les esters d’acides gras comportant une chaîne hydrocarbonée en C6 à C18, saturée ou insaturée, linéaire ou ramifiée à l’aide d’autres chaînes hydrocarbonées en C6 à C18, chacune des chaînes hydrocarbonées étant polyéthoxylée, avec un degré d’éthoxylation d’au moins 2, notamment de 2 à 12, et leurs mélanges. Selon un mode particulier et préféré, l’éther bicyclique est le dimethyl isosorbide. Selon un autre mode particulier et préféré, l’ester d’acide gras polyethoxylé est le PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate. According to a particular and preferred mode, the agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fiber is chosen from bicyclic ethers, each cycle of the bicycle comprising a number n of links between 3 and 10, the esters d fatty acids comprising a C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched using other C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, each of the hydrocarbon chains being polyethoxylated, with a degree of ethoxylation of at least 2, in particular from 2 to 12, and their mixtures. According to a particular and preferred mode, the bicyclic ether is dimethyl isosorbide. According to another particular and preferred mode, the polyethoxylated fatty acid ester is PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.
Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend au moins du diméthyl isosorbide, tel que celui commercialisé sous les dénominations ARLASOLVE™ DMI ou GRANSOLVE™ DMI par la société CRODA, Dottisol™ par la société Dottikon ES AG, NEX- DMI™ par la société Nexgen Biotechnologies, Inc ; ou OriStar DMI™ par la société Orient Stars LLC. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition A comprises at least dimethyl isosorbide, such as that marketed under the names ARLASOLVE ™ DMI or GRANSOLVE ™ DMI by the company CRODA, Dottisol ™ by the company Dottikon ES AG, NEX-DMI ™ by the Nexgen Biotechnologies, Inc; or OriStar DMI ™ by Orient Stars LLC.
Selon un autre mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend au moins du PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, tel que celui commercialisé sous les dénominations CETIOL® HE par la société BASF, ou Chemonic LI-7 Surfactant par la société Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc, ou Tegosoft GC par la société Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH ou Nikkol SG- CG700 par la société Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd ou Glycerox HE par la société Croda. La composition A colorante peut également comprendre des alcools aromatiques notamment choisis parmi l'alcool benzylique, le phényl éthanol et le phényl propanol, comme agents conservateurs. Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend en outre du phénoxyéthanol et de l’alcool benzylique à titre d’agents conservateurs. According to another particular mode, the coloring composition A comprises at least PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, such as that sold under the names CETIOL® HE by the company BASF, or Chemonic LI-7 Surfactant by the company Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc, or Tegosoft GC by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH or Nikkol SG-CG700 by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd or Glycerox HE by Croda. The coloring composition A can also comprise aromatic alcohols chosen in particular from benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethanol and phenyl propanol, as preservatives. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition A also comprises phenoxyethanol and benzyl alcohol as preservatives.
La teneur en agents conservateurs pourra aller de 0,1 à 5%, en particulier de 0,3 à 3% et de préférence de 0,5 à 2% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. The content of preservatives may range from 0.1 to 5%, in particular from 0.3 to 3% and preferably from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
Tensioactif non ionique Nonionic surfactant
La composition A colorante comprend en outre avantageusement un tensioactif non ionique, en particulier un alkyl glucoside, de préférence le decyl glucoside. The coloring composition A also advantageously comprises a nonionic surfactant, in particular an alkyl glucoside, preferably decyl glucoside.
Comme tensioactif non ionique utilisable dans la composition A colorante de l’invention, on peut citer notamment les alkylpolyglucosides. As nonionic surfactant which can be used in the dye composition A of the invention, mention may in particular be made of alkylpolyglucosides.
Selon un mode particulier, on utilisera un alkyl glucoside comme tensioactif non ionique selon l’invention. Ces tensio-actifs connus de l’état de la technique peuvent être plus représentés par la formule générale suivante : R10-(R20)t (G)v dans laquelle : According to a particular embodiment, an alkyl glucoside will be used as a nonionic surfactant according to the invention. These surfactants known from the prior art can be more represented by the following general formula: R 1 0- (R 2 0) t (G) v in which:
R1 représente un radical alkyle et/ou alcényle linéaire ou ramifié comportant environ de 8 à 24 atomes de carbone, un radical alkylphényle dont le radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié comporte de 8 à 24 atomes de carbone, R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical containing approximately from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
R2 représente un radical alkylène comportant environ de 2 à 4 atomes de carbone, G représente un motif sucre comportant de 5 à 6 atomes de carbone, R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising approximately 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
t désigne une valeur allant de 0 à 10, de préférence 0 à 4, de préférence 0 à 4 et v désigne une valeur allant de 1 à 15. t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 4 and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, les tensio-actifs alkylpolyglucosides sont des composés de formule décrite ci-dessus dans laquelle R1 désigne plus particulièrement un radical alkyle saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié comportant de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone, t désigne une valeur allant de 0 à 3 et plus particulièrement encore égale à 0, G peut désigner le glucose, le fructose ou le galactose, de préférence le glucose. Le degré de polymérisation, i.e. la valeur de v dans la formule ci-dessus, peut aller de 1 à 15, de préférence de 1 à 4. Le degré moyen de polymérisation est plus particulièrement compris entre 1 et 2. Les liaisons glucosidiques entre les motifs sucre sont de type 1 -6 ou 1 -4 et de préférence 1-4. According to a particular embodiment, the alkylpolyglucoside surfactants are compounds of formula described above in which R1 more particularly denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0, G can denote glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, ie the value of v in the above formula, can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2. The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.
Des composés correspondant à la formule ci-dessus sont notamment représentés par les produits vendus par la société BASF sous les dénominations PLANTAREN® (600 CS/U, 1200 et 2000) ou PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 et 2000) ou LUTENSOL GD 70. On peut également utiliser les produits vendus par la société SEPPIC sous les dénominations TRITON CG110 (ou ORAMIX CG 10) et TRITON CG312 (ou ORAMIX® NS 10). Compounds corresponding to the above formula are represented in particular by the products sold by the company BASF under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000) or LUTENSOL GD 70. You can also use the products sold by SEPPIC under the names TRITON CG110 (or ORAMIX CG 10) and TRITON CG312 (or ORAMIX® NS 10 ).
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition A colorante comprend un decyl glucoside tel que celui commercialisé sous la dénomination PLANTACARE 2000® UP ou PLANTACARE 2000® UP/MB par la société BASF, ou Triton CG-50 Surfactant par la société Dow Chemical Company, ou Blanova Tens APG 2000 par la société Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH ou Oramix NS 10 par la société Seppic. According to a particular and preferred mode, the coloring composition A comprises a decyl glucoside such as that sold under the name PLANTACARE 2000® UP or PLANTACARE 2000® UP / MB by the company BASF, or Triton CG-50 Surfactant by the company Dow Chemical Company , or Blanova Tens APG 2000 by Azelis Deutschland Kosmetik GmbH or Oramix NS 10 by Seppic.
La teneur en tensioactif non ionique, de préférence en alkylpolyglucoside et de préférence encore en decyl glucoside dans la composition A colorante de l’invention ira de 0,5 à 10% en poids, de préférence de 3% à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition A. The content of nonionic surfactant, preferably alkylpolyglucoside and more preferably decyl glucoside in the dye composition A of the invention will range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
Gélifiant polymérique Polymeric gelling agent
Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprendra en outre un gélifiant polymérique, de préférence un gélifiant polymérique acrylique. La présence de ce gélifiant polymérique permet de structurer la composition en augmentant sa viscosité. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition A will also comprise a polymeric gelling agent, preferably an acrylic polymeric gelling agent. The presence of this polymeric gelling agent makes it possible to structure the composition by increasing its viscosity.
Selon un mode particulier, il s’agit d’un « gélifiant polymérique hydrophile», apte à gélifier la phase aqueuse des compositions selon l'invention. According to a particular embodiment, it is a “hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent”, capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
Le gélifiant peut être hydrosoluble ou hydrodispersible. The gelling agent can be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
Le gélifiant polymérique selon l’invention est un gélifiant polymérique de préférence synthétique, autrement dit il n’est ni naturellement existant ni ne dérive d'un polymère d'origine naturelle (ex : polysaccharides, celluloses...). The polymeric gelling agent according to the invention is a polymeric gelling agent, preferably synthetic, in other words it is neither naturally existing nor derived from a polymer of natural origin (ex: polysaccharides, celluloses, etc.).
Le gélifiant polymérique synthétique considéré selon l'invention peut être particulaire ou non ; en particulier il se présente sous forme de particules, de préférence sphériques. The synthetic polymeric gelling agent considered according to the invention may or may not be particulate; in particular it is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.
De préférence, le gélifiant polymérique selon l’invention est un gélifiant polymérique acrylique choisi parmi les polymères carboxyvinyliques modifiés ou non. Ces polymères carboxyvinyliques peuvent être des copolymères issus de la polymérisation d'au moins un monomère (a) choisi parmi les acides carboxyliques à insaturation a,b-éthylénique ou leurs esters, avec au moins un monomère (b) à insaturation éthylénique comportant un groupement hydrophobe. On entend par « copolymères » aussi bien les copolymères obtenus à partir de deux sortes de monomères que ceux obtenus à partir de plus de deux sortes de monomères tels que les terpolymères obtenus à partir de trois sortes de monomères. Leur structure chimique comprend plus particulièrement au moins un motif hydrophile et au moins un motif hydrophobe. Par groupement ou motif hydrophobe, on entend un radical à chaîne hydrocarbonée, saturée ou non, linéaire ou ramifiée, comprenant au moins 8 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 10 à 30 atomes de carbone, en particulier de 12 à 30 atomes de carbone et plus préférentiellement de 18 à 30 atomes de carbone. Preferably, the polymeric gelling agent according to the invention is an acrylic polymeric gelling agent chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not. These carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from a, b-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or their esters, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a group hydrophobic. The term “copolymers” means both the copolymers obtained from two kinds of monomers as well as those obtained from more than two kinds of monomers such as the terpolymers obtained from three kinds of monomers. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one hydrophobic unit. By hydrophobic group or unit is meant a radical with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
Ces gélifiants polymériques sont par exemple les polymères ou copolymères d'acides acryliques et méthacryliques comme les copolymères acide acrylique/acrylate d'éthyle et les polymères carboxyvinyliques. Des exemples de tels polymères ou copolymères sont notamment les "carbomer" (CTFA) vendus sous la dénomination Carbopol® par la société GOODRICH ou par la société LUBRIZOL. On peut encore citer le polyglycérylméthacrylate commercialisé par la société These polymeric gelling agents are, for example, polymers or copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers. Examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular the "carbomers" (CTFA) sold under the name Carbopol® by the company GOODRICH or by the company LUBRIZOL. Mention may also be made of the polyglyceryl methacrylate sold by the company
GUARDIAN sous la dénomination Lubragel ou encore le polyglycérylacrylate commercialisé sous la dénomination Hispagel par la société HISPANO CHIMICA ou enfin le mélange polyacrylamide/C1 3-C14 lsoparaffin/Laureth7 commercialisé par la société SEPPIC sous la dénomination Sepigel. GUARDIAN under the name Lubragel or even the polyglycerylacrylate marketed under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA or finally the polyacrylamide / C1 3-C14 lsoparaffin / Laureth7 mixture marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel.
Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend un homopolymère d’acide polyacrylique de nom INCI Carbomer. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition A comprises a homopolymer of polyacrylic acid with the name INCI Carbomer.
La teneur en gélifiant polymérique dans la composition A colorante de l’invention ira généralement de 0, 1 % à 5% en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 2% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition The content of polymeric gelling agent in the coloring composition A of the invention will generally range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Matières colorantes additionnelles Additional coloring matter
La composition A colorante de l’invention pourra comprendre en outre avantageusement au moins une matière colorante additionnelle choisie parmi les pigments, les colorants et leurs mélanges. The coloring composition A of the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one additional coloring matter chosen from pigments, dyes and their mixtures.
L’utilisation de ces pigments et/ou colorants additionnels permet notamment d’obtenir davantage de nuances de couleurs. The use of these additional pigments and / or dyes makes it possible in particular to obtain more nuances of colors.
La ou les matière(s) colorante(s) peuvent être choisies parmi les matières colorantes hydrosolubles ou non, liposolubles ou non, organiques ou inorganiques, les matériaux à effet optique, et leurs mélanges. On entend par matière colorante au sens de la présente invention, un composé susceptible de produire un effet optique coloré lorsqu’il est formulé en quantité suffisante dans un milieu cosmétique approprié. Selon un mode particulier, la ou les matières colorantes sont notamment choisies parmi des pigments minéraux et/ou organiques, des pigments composites (à base de matériaux minéraux et/ou organiques), des colorants, et leurs mélanges. The coloring material (s) can be chosen from water-soluble or non-soluble, liposoluble or not, organic or inorganic coloring materials, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “coloring matter” is intended to mean a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in a sufficient amount in an appropriate cosmetic medium. According to a particular embodiment, the dye (s) are chosen in particular from mineral and / or organic pigments, composite pigments (based on mineral and / or organic materials), dyes, and mixtures thereof.
Par pigments, il faut comprendre des particules colorées, inorganiques (minérales) ou organiques, insolubles dans la phase organique liquide. Parmi les pigments minéraux, on peut citer, à titre d'exemples les oxydes de fer noir, jaune, rouge et brun ; le violet de manganèse ; le bleu outremer, l'oxyde de chrome, l'oxyde de chrome hydraté et le bleu ferrique. The term “pigments” should be understood to mean colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase. Among the mineral pigments, there may be mentioned, by way of example, black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.
Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer, par exemple, les pigments D & C red n° 19; D & C red n° 9; D & C Red n° 22 ; D & C Red n° 21 ; D & C Red n° 28 ; D & C Yellow n° 6 ; D & C orange n° 4 ; D & C orange n° 5 ; D & C Red n° 27; D & C red n° 13; D & C Red n° 7 ; D & C Red n° 6 ; D & C Yellow n° 5; D & C Red n° 36 ;; D & C Red n° 33 ; D & C orange n° 10; D & C yellow n° 6 ; ; D & C Red n° 30 ; D &C red n° 3 ; D &C Blue 1 ; le noir de carbone et les laques à base de carmin de cochenille. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned, for example, the pigments D & C red No. 19; D & C red n ° 9; D & C Red n ° 22; D & C Red n ° 21; D & C Red n ° 28; D & C Yellow n ° 6; D & C orange n ° 4; D & C orange n ° 5; D & C Red n ° 27; D & C red n ° 13; D & C Red n ° 7; D & C Red n ° 6; D & C Yellow n ° 5; D & C Red n ° 36 ;; D & C Red n ° 33; D & C orange n ° 10; D & C yellow n ° 6; ; D & C Red n ° 30; D & C red n ° 3; D & C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine lacquers.
Parmi les colorants hydrosolubles, on pourra citer Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1 , Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21 , Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, le carminé de cochenille (Cl 15850, Cl 75470). Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, cochineal carmine (Cl 15850, Cl 75470).
Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend au moins une matière colorante choisie parmi les colorants directs, de préférence les colorants cationiques directs. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition A comprises at least one coloring matter chosen from direct dyes, preferably direct cationic dyes.
Ces colorants directs sont par exemple choisis parmi tous les colorants aromatiques et/ou non aromatiques d'utilisation courante tels que les colorants directs nitrés benzéniques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants directs azoïques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants directs quinoniques et en particulier anthraquinoniques neutres, acides ou cationiques, les colorants directs aziniques, triarylméthaniques, indoaminiques, les méthines, les styriles, les porphyrines, métalloporphyrines, les phtalocyanines, les cyanines méthiniques, et les colorants fluorescents. These direct dyes are, for example, chosen from all the aromatic and / or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as neutral benzene, acid or cationic direct dyes, neutral azo, acid or cationic direct dyes, quinone direct dyes and particularly neutral, acidic or cationic anthraquinones, direct azine, triarylmethane, indoamine dyes, methines, styriles, porphyrins, metalloporphyrins, phthalocyanines, methine cyanines, and fluorescent dyes.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition A colorante comprendra un ou plusieurs colorants directs cationiques. On peut citer notamment les colorants directs cationiques de nom INCI suivants : BASIC RED 76, BASIC YELLOW 57, HC BLUE NO. 15, et leurs mélanges. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the coloring composition A will comprise one or more cationic direct dyes. Mention may in particular be made of the following cationic direct dyes of INCI name: BASIC RED 76, BASIC YELLOW 57, HC BLUE NO. 15, and their mixtures.
La teneur en matières colorantes additionnelles, notamment en colorants directs, en particulier en colorants cationiques directs, dans la composition A colorante de l’invention, ira généralement de 0,005 à 5% en poids, de préférence de 0,005% à 0,5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition The content of additional dyes, in particular direct dyes, in particular direct cationic dyes, in the dye composition A of the invention will go generally from 0.005 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
Composition cosmétique B révélatrice Revealing cosmetic composition B
La composition B révélatrice de la couleur comprend au moins un sel de fer et/ou sel d’aluminium. Les sels de fer en particulier permettent d’obtenir des teintes foncées recherchées allant du marron au noir. Ces sels permettent la complexation métallique sur la fibre kératinique, et en particulier le sourcil. The color-revealing composition B comprises at least one iron salt and / or aluminum salt. Iron salts in particular make it possible to obtain sought-after dark shades ranging from brown to black. These salts allow metal complexation on the keratin fiber, and in particular the eyebrow.
Sels de fer et/ou sels d’aluminium Iron salts and / or aluminum salts
Par « sels de fer et/ou sels d’aluminium», on entend selon l’invention les oxydes de ces métaux et les sels proprement dits issus notamment de l'action d'un acide sur un métal. De préférence les sels ne sont pas des oxydes. Parmi les sels on peut citer les halogénures tels que les chlorures, fluorures et iodures ; les sulfates, les phosphates ; les nitrates ; les perchlorates et les sels d'acides carboxyliques et les complexes polymériques pouvant supporter lesdits sels, ainsi que leurs mélanges. Les sels d'acides carboxyliques utilisables dans l'invention incluent également des sels d'acides carboxyliques hydroxyles tels que le gluconate. By "iron salts and / or aluminum salts" is meant according to the invention the oxides of these metals and the actual salts derived in particular from the action of an acid on a metal. Preferably the salts are not oxides. Among the salts, mention may be made of halides such as chlorides, fluorides and iodides; sulfates, phosphates; nitrates; perchlorates and salts of carboxylic acids and polymer complexes which can support said salts, as well as their mixtures. The carboxylic acid salts which can be used in the invention also include salts of hydroxylated carboxylic acids such as gluconate.
Parmi les sels de fer ou d'aluminium selon l’invention, on peut citer les sulfates, les gluconates, les chlorures, les lactates, les acétates, les glycinates, les aspartates, et les citrates. Among the iron or aluminum salts according to the invention, there may be mentioned sulfates, gluconates, chlorides, lactates, acetates, glycinates, aspartates, and citrates.
On peut également employer, comme sels d'aluminium, un ou plusieurs alun(s), c'est- à-dire un ou plusieurs sulfates mixtes d'aluminium et de cation monovalent, choisis notamment parmi le sulfate d'aluminium et de potassium (alun de potassium), le sulfate d'aluminium et de sodium (alun de sodium), et le sulfate d'aluminium et d'ammonium (alun d'ammonium). One can also use, as aluminum salts, one or more alum (s), that is to say one or more mixed sulphates of aluminum and of monovalent cation, chosen in particular from aluminum and potassium sulphate (potassium alum), aluminum and sodium sulfate (sodium alum), and aluminum and ammonium sulfate (ammonium alum).
De préférence, on utilisera le gluconate de fer, les aluns de potassium, de sodium ou d'ammonium, et les mélanges de ces sels. Preferably, iron gluconate, potassium, sodium or ammonium alums and mixtures of these salts will be used.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition B révélatrice comprend au moins un gluconate de fer. On peut citer notamment le gluconate de fer commercialisé par la société Givaudan-Lavirotte sous la dénomination GIVOBIO Fe 601 ou Gluconal FE de la société Glucona America, Inc. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the revealing composition B comprises at least one iron gluconate. Mention may in particular be made of iron gluconate sold by the company Givaudan-Lavirotte under the name GIVOBIO Fe 601 or Gluconal FE from the company Glucona America, Inc.
Le ou les sels de fer et/ou sels d’aluminium utilisés dans la composition B révélatrice représentent avantageusement de 0,1 % à 10%%, de préférence de 3% à 5% en poids du poids total de la composition. Le sel de fer et/ou le sel d’aluminium, de préférence le gluconate de fer ou un sulfate de fer, de préférence encore le gluconate de fer, peut être intégré dans la composition B révélatrice, mais de préférence il est ajouté extemporanément à la composition B révélatrice, avant application de celle-ci sur lesdites fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils The iron salt (s) and / or aluminum salt (s) used in the revealing composition B advantageously represent from 0.1% to 10 %%, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The iron salt and / or the aluminum salt, preferably iron gluconate or an iron sulphate, more preferably iron gluconate, can be incorporated into the revealing composition B, but preferably it is added extemporaneously to revealing composition B, before application thereof on said keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows
Polymère filmoqène Filmoqene polymer
Selon un mode particulier, la composition B révélatrice comprend au moins un polymère filmogène. According to a particular embodiment, the revealing composition B comprises at least one film-forming polymer.
Ce polymère filmogène permet d’améliorer la tenue de la coloration ou du maquillage sur les matières kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils. This film-forming polymer makes it possible to improve the behavior of the coloring or make-up on keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows.
Ce polymère filmogène peut notamment être choisi parmi les polymères cationiques, anioniques, amphotères, ou non ioniques utilisés classiquement dans le domaine capillaire, ou parmi les polymères filmogènes utilisés dans le domaine des mascaras. This film-forming polymer can in particular be chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers conventionally used in the hair field, or from film-forming polymers used in the field of mascaras.
Selon un mode particulier, le polymère filmogène est choisi parmi les copolymères acryliques. According to a particular mode, the film-forming polymer is chosen from acrylic copolymers.
En particulier, on peut citer une dispersion aqueuse de polymère filmogène non- ionique (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C1 -C6, et notamment de polymère consistant essentiellement en un ou plusieurs (méth)acrylates d'alkyle en C1-C6. Ces polymères peuvent être choisis parmi les polymères de (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C1 -C4, et en particulier les copolymères d'acrylate d'alkyle en C1 -C4 et de méthacrylate d'alkyle en C1 -C4, et leurs mélanges. Comme (méth)acrylate d'alkyle en C1 -C4, on peut citer le (méth)acrylate de méthyle, le (méth)acrylate d'éthyle, le (méth)acrylate de propyle, le (méth)acrylate de butyle. De préférence, on peut utiliser un copolymère d'acrylate d'éthyle et de méthacrylate de méthyle tel que celui vendu sous la dénomination "DAITOSOL 5000 AD" par la société DAITO KASEY KOGYO. In particular, there may be mentioned an aqueous dispersion of C1-C6 alkyl non-ionic film-forming polymer (meth) acrylate, and in particular of polymer consisting essentially of one or more C1-C6 alkyl (meth) acrylates. These polymers can be chosen from polymers of C1 -C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate, and in particular copolymers of C1 -C4 alkyl acrylate and C1 -C4 alkyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. . As C1-C4 alkyl (meth) acrylate, mention may be made of methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, propyl (meth) acrylate, butyl (meth) acrylate. Preferably, one can use a copolymer of ethyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate such as that sold under the name "DAITOSOL 5000 AD" by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO.
Comme autres exemples de polymères utilisables selon l’invention As other examples of polymers which can be used according to the invention
- Le copolymère ACRYLATES/ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE vendu sous la dénomination de Daitosol 5000 SJT ® par la société Daito Kasei,- The ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE copolymer sold under the name of Daitosol 5000 SJT® by the company Daito Kasei,
- Le copolymère SODIUM STYRENE/ACRYLATES COPOLYMER vendu sous la dénomination de Daitosol 5000 STY ® par la société Daito Kasei,- The SODIUM STYRENE / ACRYLATES COPOLYMER copolymer sold under the name of Daitosol 5000 STY® by the company Daito Kasei,
- Le copolymère ACRYLATES/ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER vendu sous la dénomination de Daitosol 4000 SJT par la société Daito Kasei, - Le copolymère ACRYLATES vendu sous la dénomination de Daitosol 5000 AD® par la société Daito Kasei. - The ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER copolymer sold under the name of Daitosol 4000 SJT by the company Daito Kasei, - The ACRYLATES copolymer sold under the name of Daitosol 5000 AD® by the company Daito Kasei.
Le polymère filmogène utilisé avantageusement dans la composition B révélatrice peut être présent en une teneur allant de 1 % à 10%, de préférence de 1 % à 5% en poids (d’extrait sec de polymère) du poids total de la composition. The film-forming polymer advantageously used in the revealing composition B can be present in a content ranging from 1% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5% by weight (of dry polymer extract) of the total weight of the composition.
GALENIQUE GALENIC
Les différentes compositions de l’invention décrites ci-dessus peuvent se trouver indépendamment l'une de l'autre sous des formes galéniques diverses, telles qu'une poudre, une lotion, une mousse, une crème, une émulsion, un gel ou sous tout autre forme appropriée pour réaliser une teinture des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des sourcils. The various compositions of the invention described above can be found independently of one another in various dosage forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a foam, a cream, an emulsion, a gel or under any other suitable form for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular the eyebrows.
Elles seront préférentiellement appliquées sur les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils, et de préférence les sourcils, à l’aide d’un pinceau ou d’une brosse. They will preferably be applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, and preferably the eyebrows, using a brush or a brush.
Les compositions utilisées dans le procédé selon l'invention comprennent un milieu approprié pour la coloration ou le maquillage des fibres kératiniques, pouvant contenir de l'eau, un mélange d'eau et d'un ou plusieurs solvants organiques. The compositions used in the process according to the invention comprise a medium suitable for dyeing or making up keratin fibers, which may contain water, a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents.
De préférence les compositions A et B utilisées dans le procédé selon l'invention comprennent chacune de l'eau ou un mélange d'eau et d'un ou plusieurs solvants organiques ou un mélange de solvants organiques. Preferably, the compositions A and B used in the process according to the invention each comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.
A titre de solvant organique, on peut par exemple citer les mono-alcools en C C4, tels que l'éthanol et l'isopropanol ; les polyols et éthers de polyols comme le 2- butoxyéthanol, le propylèneglycol, le monométhyléther de propylèneglycol, le monoéthyléther et le monométhyléther du diéthylèneglycol, l'hexylène glycol, ainsi que les alcools aromatiques comme l'alcool benzylique ou le phénoxyéthanol. Les solvants organiques sont généralement présents dans les compositions de l’invention en des teneurs allant de 0,1 à 5% , de préférence de 1 % à 2% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. As organic solvent, mention may, for example, be made of CC 4 mono-alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol. The organic solvents are generally present in the compositions of the invention in contents ranging from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 1% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions de l’invention peuvent également renfermer divers adjuvants tels que des agents antioxydants, des agents séquestrants, des parfums, des ajusteurs de pH autrement nommés acidifiants ou alcalinisants, des agents dispersants, des agents de conditionnement et leurs mélanges. The compositions of the invention may also contain various adjuvants such as antioxidants, sequestering agents, perfumes, pH adjusters otherwise called acidifying or basifying agents, dispersing agents, conditioning agents and their mixtures.
Ajusteurs de pH (pour compositions A et/ou B) PH adjusters (for compositions A and / or B)
La composition A colorante et/ou la composition B révélatrice comprennent avantageusement un ajusteur de pH. The coloring composition A and / or the revealing composition B advantageously comprise a pH adjuster.
De préférence, le pH desdites compositions iront de 6 à 8,5, de préférence de 7 à 8. Selon un mode particulier, le pH des compositions va de 7 à 7,5. Preferably, the pH of said compositions will range from 6 to 8.5, preferably from 7 to 8. According to a particular mode, the pH of the compositions ranges from 7 to 7.5.
Le pH des compositions utilisées dans le procédé selon l'invention peut ainsi être ajusté à la valeur désirée au moyen d'agents acidifiants ou alcalinisants habituellement utilisés en cosmétique ou bien encore à l'aide de systèmes tampons classiques. Parmi les agents acidifiants des compositions utilisées dans l'invention, on peut citer, à titre d'exemple, l’acide citrique. Une variante avantageuse est d'ajouter un agent alcalinisant à la ou les compositions du procédé selon l’invention, contenant le ou les (bi)carbonates. Plus particulièrement, cet agent alcalin est choisi parmi l'ammoniaque, les carbonates ou bicarbonates alcalins tels que les carbonates ou bicarbonates de sodium ou de potassium, les alcanolamines telles que les mono-, di- et triéthanolamines ainsi que leurs dérivés, les hydroxydes de sodium ou de potassium, et leurs mélanges. L’homme du métier saura choisir l’ajusteur de pH adapté à la zone d’application du sourcil (contour de l’œil). The pH of the compositions used in the process according to the invention can thus be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetics or even using conventional buffer systems. Among the acidifying agents of the compositions used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of citric acid. An advantageous variant is to add an basifying agent to the composition or compositions of the process according to the invention, containing the (bi) carbonate (s). More particularly, this alkaline agent is chosen from ammonia, alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines as well as their derivatives, hydroxides of sodium or potassium, and mixtures thereof. Those skilled in the art will be able to choose the pH adjuster suitable for the area of application of the eyebrow (eye area).
Selon un mode particulier et préféré de l’invention, la ou les compositions de l’invention comprennent des bicarbonates alcalins, en particulier du bicarbonate de sodium. According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition or compositions of the invention comprise alkaline bicarbonates, in particular sodium bicarbonate.
Galénique particulière sous forme de gels aqueux Special dosage form in the form of aqueous gels
Selon un mode particulier de l’invention, la composition A colorante et la composition B révélatrice sont sous forme de gels, de préférence sous la forme de gels aqueux. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring composition A and the revealing composition B are in the form of gels, preferably in the form of aqueous gels.
Ces gels aqueux sont caractérisés par une phase aqueuse comprenant généralement de l’eau et des solvants organiques hydrosolubles tels que décrits précédemment, et un ou plusieurs gélifiants, de préférence des gélifiants polymériques acryliques. These aqueous gels are characterized by an aqueous phase generally comprising water and water-soluble organic solvents as described above, and one or more gelling agents, preferably acrylic polymeric gelling agents.
La présence de ces gélifiants polymériques permet de structurer les compositions A et B en augmentant leur viscosité. De préférence, la viscosité des compositions A et B ira de 2000cps à 10 OOOcps, de préférence de 4000cps à 7000cps, mesurée au Rhéolab avec un mobile Ailette. The presence of these polymeric gelling agents makes it possible to structure the compositions A and B by increasing their viscosity. Preferably, the viscosity of compositions A and B will range from 2000 cps to 10 OOOcps, preferably from 4000 cps to 7000 cps, measured with Rheolab with a mobile fin.
Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend un gélifiant polymérique, tel que décrit précédemment. De préférence, le gélifiant polymérique utilisé selon l’invention n’est pas un gélifiant polymérique naturel (ex : polysaccharides, celluloses...). According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition A comprises a polymeric gelling agent, as described above. Preferably, the polymeric gelling agent used according to the invention is not a natural polymeric gelling agent (ex: polysaccharides, celluloses, etc.).
De préférence, le gélifiant polymérique selon l’invention est un gélifiant polymérique acrylique. Ces gélifiants polymériques sont par exemple les polymères ou copolymères d'acides acryliques et méthacryliques comme les copolymères acide acrylique/acrylate d'éthyle et les polymères carboxyvinyliques. Des exemples de tels polymères ou copolymères sont notamment les "carbomer" (CTFA) vendus sous la dénomination Carbopol® par la société GOODRICH ou par la société LUBRIZOL. On peut encore citer le polyglycérylméthacrylate commercialisé par la sociétéPreferably, the polymeric gelling agent according to the invention is an acrylic polymeric gelling agent. These polymeric gelling agents are, for example, polymers or copolymers of acrylic and methacrylic acids such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers. Examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular the "carbomers" (CTFA) sold under the name Carbopol® by the company GOODRICH or by the company LUBRIZOL. We can also cite the polyglyceryl methacrylate marketed by the company
GUARDIAN sous la dénomination Lubragel ou encore le polyglycérylacrylate commercialisé sous la dénomination Hispagel par la société HISPANO CHIMICA ou enfin le mélange polyacrylamide/C1 3-C14 lsoparaffin/Laureth7 commercialisé par la société SEPPIC sous la dénomination Sepigel. GUARDIAN under the name Lubragel or even the polyglycerylacrylate marketed under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA or finally the polyacrylamide / C1 3-C14 lsoparaffin / Laureth7 mixture marketed by the company SEPPIC under the name Sepigel.
Selon un mode particulier, la composition A colorante comprend un homopolymère d’acide polyacrylique de nom INCI Carbomer. According to a particular embodiment, the coloring composition A comprises a homopolymer of polyacrylic acid with the name INCI Carbomer.
La teneur en gélifiant polymérique dans la composition A colorante de l’invention ira généralement de 0,1 % à 3%% en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 2%% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition The content of polymeric gelling agent in the coloring composition A of the invention will generally range from 0.1% to 3 %% by weight, preferably from 1% to 2 %% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition B révélatrice comprend un gélifiant polymérique hydrophile choisi parmi les polymères associatifs. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the revealing composition B comprises a hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent chosen from associative polymers.
Ce gélifiant polymérique dans une composition B révélatrice sous forme de gel permet d’améliorer la stabilité de la composition, en particulier au contact du gluconate de fer, susceptible d’impacter la stabilité et/ou la structure de ladite composition. This polymeric gelling agent in a revealing composition B in gel form makes it possible to improve the stability of the composition, in particular in contact with iron gluconate, capable of impacting the stability and / or the structure of said composition.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition B révélatrice sous forme de gel aqueux comprend au moins un polymère associatif. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the revealing composition B in the form of an aqueous gel comprises at least one associative polymer.
Par « polymère associatif » selon la présente invention, on entend tout polymère amphiphile comportant dans sa structure au moins une chaîne grasse et au moins une portion hydrophile. Les polymères associatifs conformes à la présente invention peuvent être anioniques, cationiques, non-ioniques ou amphotères. De préférence, il s’agira d’un polymère anionique associatif. By “associative polymer” according to the present invention is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric. Preferably, it will be an associative anionic polymer.
Parmi les polymères anioniques associatifs, on peut citer ceux comportant au moins un motif hydrophile, et au moins un motif éther d'allyle à chaîne grasse, plus particulièrement parmi ceux dont le motif hydrophile est constitué par un monomère anionique insaturé éthylénique, plus particulièrement par un acide carboxylique vinylique et tout particulièrement par un acide acrylique, un acide méthacrylique ou leurs mélanges, et dont le motif éther d'allyle à chaîne grasse correspond au monomère de formule (I) suivante CH2 = C(R')CH2 OBnR (I) Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made of those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one allyl ether unit with a fatty chain, more particularly from those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an anionic ethylenically unsaturated monomer, more particularly by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly with an acrylic acid, a methacrylic acid or their mixtures, and the fatty chain allyl ether unit of which corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below CH 2 = C (R ') CH 2 OB n R (I)
dans laquelle R' désigne H ou CH3, B désigne le radical éthylèneoxy, n est nul ou désigne un entier allant de 1 à 100, R désigne un radical hydrocarboné choisi parmi les radicaux alkyl, arylalkyle, aryle, alkylaryle, cycloalkyle, comprenant 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, de préférence 10 à 24, et plus particulièrement encore de 12 à 18 atomes de carbone. Parmi les polymères anioniques associatifs, on peut citer également les terpolymères d'anhydride maléique/cc-oléfine en C3o-C38/maléate d'alkyle tel que le produit copolymère anhydride maléique/cc-oléfine en C30-C38/maléate d'isopropyle vendu sous le nom PERFORMA V 1608 par la société NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES. in which R 'denotes H or CH 3 , B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, cycloalkyl radicals, comprising 8 with 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and more particularly still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of terpolymers of maleic anhydride / C 3 oC 38 olefin / alkyl maleate such as the maleic anhydride / cc-olefin C 30 -C 38 / maleate copolymer product. isopropyl sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES.
Parmi les polymères anioniques associatifs on peut citer selon un mode de réalisation préféré, les copolymères comportant parmi leurs monomères un acide carboxylique à insaturation a,(3-monoéthylénique et un ester d'acide carboxylique à insaturation a,b- monoéthylénique et d'un alcool gras oxyalkyléné. Préférentiellement, ces composés comprennent également comme monomère un ester d'acide carboxylique à insaturation a,b- monoéthylénique et d'alcool en C1-C4. Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made, according to a preferred embodiment, of the copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an a, (3-monoethylenically unsaturated) carboxylic acid and an a, b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid ester and Oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of a, b- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of C1-C4 alcohol.
A titre d'exemple de ce type de composé on peut citer l'ACULYN 22® vendu par la société ROHM et HAAS, qui est un terpolymère acide méthacrylique/acrylate d'éthyle/méthacrylate de stéaryle oxyalkyléné (comprenant 20 motifs OE) ou l'ACULYN 28 (terpolymère d'acide méthacrylique/acrylate d'éthyle/méthacrylate de béhényle oxyéthylène (25 OE). As an example of this type of compound include Aculyn 22 ® sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated (comprising 20 EO units) or 'ACULYN 28 (terpolymer of methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / behenyl methacrylate oxyethylene (25 EO).
Comme polymères anioniques associatifs, on peut citer également les polymères anioniques comportant au moins un motif hydrophile de type acide carboxylique insaturé oléfinique, et au moins un motif hydrophobe exclusivement de type ester d'alkyl (C10-C30) d'acide carboxylique insaturé. As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C10-C30) alkyl ester type.
Comme polymères anioniques associatifs, on peut citer également les terpolymères anioniques. As anionic associative polymers, mention may also be made of anionic terpolymers.
Le terpolymère anionique peut être un terpolymère linéaire ou branché et/ou réticulé, d'au moins un monomère (1) portant une fonction acide sous forme libre, partiellement ou totalement salifiée avec un monomère non-ionique (2) choisi parmi le NN.dimethylacrylamide et l'acrylate de 2-hydroxyéthyle et au moins un monomère (3) acrylate d'alkyle polyoxyéthyléné de formule (II) suivante : The anionic terpolymer can be a linear or branched and / or crosslinked terpolymer of at least one monomer (1) carrying an acid function in free form, partially or totally salified with a nonionic monomer (2) chosen from NN. dimethylacrylamide and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and at least one polyoxyethylenated alkyl acrylate monomer (3) of formula (II) below:
dans laquelle R1 représente un atome d'hydrogène, R représente un radical alkyle linéaire ou ramifié en C2-C8 et n représente un nombre allant de 1 à 10. in which R1 represents a hydrogen atom, R represents a linear or branched C 2 -C 8 alkyl radical and n represents a number ranging from 1 to 10.
Par «polymère branché », on désigne un polymère non linéaire qui possède des chaînes pendantes de manière à obtenir, lorsque ce polymère est mis en solution dans l'eau, un fort état d'enchevêtrement conduisant à des viscosités, à bas gradient de vitesse très importantes. By “branched polymer”, is meant a non-linear polymer which has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, a strong state of entanglement leading to viscosities, at low speed gradient very important.
Par «polymère réticulé », on désigne un polymère non linéaire se présentant à l'état de réseau tridimensionnelle insoluble dans l'eau mais gonflable à l'eau et conduisant à l'obtention d'un gel chimique. By "crosslinked polymer" is meant a non-linear polymer in the state of a three-dimensional network insoluble in water but swellable with water and leading to the production of a chemical gel.
La fonction acide du monomère (1) est notamment la fonction acide sulfonique, acide phosphonique, lesdites fonctions étant sous forme libre, partiellement ou totalement salifiées. The acid function of the monomer (1) is in particular the sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid function, said functions being in free form, partially or totally salified.
Le monomère (1) peut être choisi parmi l'acide styrènesulfonique, l'acide éthylsulfonique ou l'acide 2-méthy1 -2[(1-oxo-2-propènyl]amino] 1-propanesulfonique (appelé aussi Acryloyldimethyltaurate) sous forme libre, partiellement ou totalement salifiée. Il est présent dans le terpolymère anionique de préférence dans des proportions molaires comprises entre 5% et 95% molaire et plus particulièrement entre 10% et 90% molaire. Le monomère (1) sera plus particulièrement l'acide 2-méthyl-2-[(1-oxo-2- propènyl]amino] 1 - propanesulfonique sous forme libre, partiellement ou totalement salifiée. The monomer (1) can be chosen from styrenesulfonic acid, ethylsulfonic acid or 2-methyl1-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid (also called Acryloyldimethyltaurate) , partially or totally salified. It is present in the anionic terpolymer preferably in molar proportions of between 5% and 95 mol% and more particularly between 10% and 90 molar. The monomer (1) will be more particularly acid 2 -methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1 - propanesulfonic in free form, partially or totally salified.
La fonction acide sous forme partiellement ou totalement salifiée sera de préférence un sel de métal alcalin tel qu'un sel de sodium ou de potassium, un sel d'ammonium, un sel d'aminoalcool comme un sel de monoéthanolamine ou bien un sel d'acide aminé tel qu'un sel de la lysine. The acid function in partially or fully salified form will preferably be an alkali metal salt such as a sodium or potassium salt, an ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt such as a monoethanolamine salt or else a salt of amino acid such as a lysine salt.
Le monomère (2) est de préférence présent dans le terpolymère anionique dans des proportions molaires comprises entre 4,9% et 90% molaire et plus particulièrement entre 9,5% et 85% molaire et encore plus particulièrement entre 19,5% et 75% molaire. The monomer (2) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 4.9% and 90 mol% and more particularly between 9.5% and 85% molar and even more particularly between 19.5% and 75 % molar.
Dans la formule (II), comme exemple de radical alkyle linéaire en C8-C16, on peut citer octyle, décyle, undécyle, tridécyle, tétradécyle, pentadécyle, hexadécyle. In formula (II), as an example of a linear C 8 -C 16 alkyl radical, there may be mentioned octyl, decyl, undecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl.
Dans la formule (II), comme exemple de radical alkyle ramifié en C8-C16, on peut citer 2-éthylhexyle, 2-propylheptyle, 2-butyloctyle, 2-pentylnonyle, 2hexyldécyle, 4- méthylpentyle, 5-méthylhexyle, 6-méthylheptyle,15-méthylpentadécyle, 16- méthylheptadécyle, 2- hexyloctyle. In formula (II), as an example of a C 8 -C 16 branched alkyl radical, mention may be made of 2-ethylhexyl, 2-propylheptyl, 2-butyloctyl, 2-pentylnonyl, 2hexyldecyl, 4-methylpentyl, 5-methylhexyl, 6 -methylheptyl, 15-methylpentadecyl, 16-methylheptadecyl, 2-hexyloctyl.
Selon une forme particulière de l'invention, dans la formule (I), R désigne un radical alkyle en C12-C16. According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), R denotes a C12-C16 alkyl radical.
Selon une forme particulière de l'invention, dans la formule (I), n varie de 3 à 5. On utilisera plus particulièrement comme monomère de formule (II) l'acrylate de lauryle tétraéthoxylé. According to a particular form of the invention, in formula (I), n varies from 3 to 5. Use will more particularly be made, as monomer of formula (II), of tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate.
Le monomère (3) de formule (II) est de préférence présent dans le terpolymère anionique dans des proportions molaires comprises entre 0,1 % et 10% molaire et plus particulièrement entre 0,5% et 5% molaire. The monomer (3) of formula (II) is preferably present in the anionic terpolymer in molar proportions of between 0.1% and 10 mol% and more particularly between 0.5% and 5 mol%.
Selon un mode particulier de l'invention, le terpolymère anionique est réticulé et/ou branché par un composé diéthylénique ou polyéthylénique dans la proportion exprimée par rapport à la quantité totale de monomères mis en oeuvre, de 0,005% à 1 % molaire et de préférence de 0,01 % à 0,5% molaire et plus particulièrement de 0,01 % à 0,25% molaire. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the anionic terpolymer is crosslinked and / or branched with a diethylene or polyethylene compound in the proportion expressed relative to the total amount of monomers used, from 0.005% to 1 mol% and preferably from 0.01% to 0.5 mol% and more particularly from 0.01% to 0.25% molar.
L'agent de réticulation et/ou l'agent de ramification est choisi de préférence parmi le diméthacrylate d'éthylèneglycol, l'acide diallyloxoacétique ou un de ses sels, comme le diallyloxyacétate de sodium, le tétraallyloxyéthane, le diacrylate d'éthylèneglycol, le diallyl uré, la triallyl amine, le triméthylol propanetriacrylate, le méthylènebis-(acrylamide) ou leurs mélanges. The crosslinking agent and / or the branching agent is preferably chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diallyloxoacetic acid or one of its salts, such as sodium diallyloxyacetate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallyl urea, triallyl amine, trimethylol propanetriacrylate, methylenebis- (acrylamide) or their mixtures.
Le terpolymère anionique peut contenir des additifs tels que des agents complexants, des agents de transfert, des agents limiteurs de chaîne. The anionic terpolymer can contain additives such as complexing agents, transfer agents, chain-limiting agents.
On utilisera plus particulièrement dans la composition B révélatrice de l’invention un terpolymère anionique d'acide 2-méthyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propènyl]amino] 1 -propanesulfonique partielllement ou totalement salifié sous forme de sel d'ammonium, de N,N- diméthylacrylamide et d'acrylate de lauryle tétraéthoxylé et réticulé au triméthylol propanetriacrylate, de nom INCI Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 tel que le produit vendu sous le nom commercial SEPIMAX ZEN® par la société SEPPIC. Use will be made more particularly in composition B revealing the invention of an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2 - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of a salt. ammonium, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate and crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate, INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as the product sold under the trade name SEPIMAX ZEN ® by the company SEPPIC.
Le polymère gélifiant hydrophile, en particulier le polymère associatif anionique présent dans la composition B révélatrice, sera présent en une teneur allant de 0,1 % à 5% en poids, de préférence de 1 % à 3% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. The hydrophilic gelling polymer, in particular the anionic associative polymer present in the revealing composition B, will be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
Mise en œuyre du procédé de coloration ou maquillage Implementation of the coloring or make-up process
Les compositions A et B peuvent être appliquées sur les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils, de préférence les sourcils, séparément et en particulier de façon séquentielle, quel que soit leur ordre d'application (application de la composition A puis de la composition B ou application de la composition B puis de la composition A). Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition A colorante est appliquée avant la composition B révélatrice. Les fibres kératiniques, de préférence les sourcils, peuvent être ou non préalablement humidifiées. De préférence, on appliquera la composition A colorante sur des fibres kératiniques non préalablement humidifiées. The compositions A and B can be applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows, preferably the eyebrows, separately and in particular sequentially, whatever their order of application (application of composition A then of composition B or application of composition B then of composition A). According to a particular and preferred mode, the coloring composition A is applied before the revealing composition B. The keratin fibers, preferably the eyebrows, may or may not be previously moistened. Preferably, the coloring composition A will be applied to keratin fibers not previously moistened.
Les fibres kératiniques, de préférence les sourcils, peuvent être ou non préalablement traitées par un agent oxydant. Selon un premier mode, on appliquera la composition A colorante sur des fibres kératiniques qui ne sont pas préalablement traitées par un agent oxydant. Selon un autre mode, on appliquera la composition A colorante sur des fibres kératiniques préalablement traitées par un agent oxydant, en particulier du peroxyde d’hydrogène. The keratin fibers, preferably the eyebrows, may or may not be previously treated with an oxidizing agent. According to a first mode, the coloring composition A will be applied to keratin fibers which are not previously treated with an oxidizing agent. According to another mode, the coloring composition A will be applied to keratin fibers previously treated with an oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.
L'application des compositions A et B peut être précédée ou suivie d'une étape de rinçage et/ou de séchage des fibres kératiniques. Selon un mode particulier, le procédé ne comprend pas d’étape de rinçage et/ou de séchage avant l’application des compositions A et B. Selon un mode préféré, le procédé comprend néanmoins une étape de rinçage final après application de la composition B. The application of compositions A and B can be preceded or followed by a step of rinsing and / or drying the keratin fibers. According to a particular mode, the method does not comprise a rinsing and / or drying step before the application of compositions A and B. According to a preferred mode, the method nevertheless comprises a final rinsing step after application of composition B .
Le temps de pose après application de la composition A colorante varie généralement de 30 secondes à 30 minutes, préférentiellement de 45 secondes à 10 minutes, et plus préférentiellement de 1 minute à 6 minutes. The exposure time after application of the coloring composition A generally varies from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 10 minutes, and more preferably from 1 minute to 6 minutes.
Le temps de pose après application de la composition B révélatrice varie généralement de 30 secondes à 10 minutes, préférentiellement de 45 secondes à 5 minutes. The exposure time after application of the revealing composition B generally varies from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 5 minutes.
Les compositions A et B sont généralement appliquées à température ambiante. Compositions A and B are generally applied at room temperature.
Ainsi, l’invention porte également sur un procédé cosmétique de coloration ou de maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cils et/ou des sourcils et de préférence des sourcils, dans lequel : Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, in which:
la composition A colorante est appliquée sur les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, avec un temps de pose allant de 30 secondes à 30 minutes, préférentiellement de 45 secondes à 10 minutes, préférentiellement de 1 minutes à 6 minutes, la composition B révélatrice est appliquée les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, avec un temps de pose allant de 30 secondes à 10 minutes, préférentiellement de 45 secondes à 5 minutes, la composition A étant appliquée avant ou après la composition B, de préférence avant la composition B, lesdites fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, étant ensuite, dans une étape finale et de façon optionnelle, rincées. the coloring composition A is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 1 minutes to 6 minutes, the revealing composition B is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 5 minutes , composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B, said keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, then being, in a final step and optionally, rinsed.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, la composition A colorante est appliquée avant la composition B révélatrice. Selon un premier mode, la composition A colorante est appliquée sur des fibres kératiniques qui ne sont pas préalablement traitées par un agent oxydant. According to a particular and preferred mode, the coloring composition A is applied before the revealing composition B. According to a first mode, the coloring composition A is applied to keratin fibers which are not previously treated with an oxidizing agent.
Selon un autre mode, la composition A colorante est appliquée sur des fibres kératiniques préalablement traitées par un agent oxydant, de préférence du peroxyde d’hydrogène. Le temps de pré-traitement à l’agent oxydant ira généralement de 30 secondes à 10 minutes, de préférence de 30 secondes à 5 minutes. Et selon un mode particulier, une étape de rinçage intermédiaire et éventuellement séchage est réalisée entre l’étape de pré traitement à l’agent oxydant et l’étape de traitement avec la composition colorante. According to another mode, the coloring composition A is applied to keratin fibers previously treated with an oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The pre-treatment time with the oxidizing agent will generally range from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. And according to a particular mode, an intermediate rinsing step and optionally drying is carried out between the pre-treatment step with the oxidizing agent and the treatment step with the coloring composition.
Kit ou dispositif Kit or device
L’invention porte également sur un kit ou dispositif de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, à plusieurs compartiments séparés et comprenant : The invention also relates to a kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments and comprising:
- dans un compartiment, la composition A colorante telle que définie dans l’invention; - In a compartment, the coloring composition A as defined in the invention;
- dans un autre compartiment séparé la composition B révélatrice telle que définie dans l’invention, et caractérisée en ce qu’elle ne comprend pas le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium, et - in another separate compartment, the revealing composition B as defined in the invention, and characterized in that it does not include the iron and / or aluminum salt, and
- dans un autre compartiment séparé, le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium destiné à être mélangé extemporanément à la composition B révélatrice avant application sur les fibres kératiniques, - in another separate compartment, the iron and / or aluminum salt intended to be mixed extemporaneously with the revealing composition B before application to the keratin fibers,
- de façon optionnelle, dans un autre compartiment séparé une composition C comprenant un agent oxydant pour un pré-traitement des fibres kératiniques avant traitement par les compositions A et B, optionally, in another separate compartment, a composition C comprising an oxidizing agent for a pretreatment of the keratin fibers before treatment with the compositions A and B,
- et avantageusement une notice d’utilisation. - and advantageously a user manual.
Selon un mode alternatif, le kit ou dispositif selon l’invention comprend : According to an alternative mode, the kit or device according to the invention comprises:
- dans un compartiment, la composition A colorante telle que définie dans l’invention; - dans un autre compartiment séparé la composition B révélatrice telle que définie dans l’invention et caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium, - In a compartment, the coloring composition A as defined in the invention; in another separate compartment, the revealing composition B as defined in the invention and characterized in that it comprises the iron and / or aluminum salt,
- de façon optionnelle, dans un autre compartiment séparé une composition C comprenant un agent oxydant pour un pré-traitement des fibres kératiniques avant traitement par les compositions A et B, optionally, in another separate compartment, a composition C comprising an oxidizing agent for a pretreatment of the keratin fibers before treatment with the compositions A and B,
- et avantageusement une notice d’utilisation. - and advantageously a user manual.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, le kit ou dispositif selon l’invention comprend : According to a particular and preferred mode, the kit or device according to the invention comprises:
- la composition A colorante comprenant - the coloring composition A comprising
i. un colorant naturel choisi dans le groupe constitué par un extrait de campêche, un extrait de châtaignier, un extrait de Sorgho, un extrait de pin, un extrait de thé, un extrait de noix de Galle, un extrait de cacao, un extrait de Brasiletto, et leurs mélanges ; i. a natural dye chosen from the group consisting of log extract, chestnut extract, Sorghum extract, pine extract, tea extract, gall nut extract, cocoa extract, Brasiletto extract , and mixtures thereof;
ii. un decyl glucoside comme tensioactif non ionique ; ii. decyl glucoside as a nonionic surfactant;
iii. un sodium metabisulfite comme agent antioxydant ; iii. sodium metabisulfite as an antioxidant;
iv. un polymère acrylique comme gélifiant, iv. an acrylic polymer as gelling agent,
v. un ajusteur de pH et v. a pH adjuster and
vi. optionnellement des pigments noirs et/ou colorants directs cationiques; vi. optionally black pigments and / or direct cationic dyes;
- la composition B révélatrice comprenant - the revealing composition B comprising
vii. un polymère acrylique comme gélifiant, vii. an acrylic polymer as gelling agent,
viii. un ajusteur de pH, et viii. a pH adjuster, and
ix. optionnellement un polymère filmogène, ix. optionally a film-forming polymer,
- une composition séparée comprenant le gluconate de fer comme sel de fer, et a separate composition comprising iron gluconate as the iron salt, and
- optionnellement une composition séparée comprenant le peroxyde d’hydrogène comme agent oxydant optionnel. - optionally a separate composition comprising hydrogen peroxide as an optional oxidizing agent.
Les compositions A et B sont telles que décrites précédemment. Compositions A and B are as described above.
Selon un mode particulier, les compositions A et B sont sous forme de gel aqueux, la composition A comprenant une phase aqueuse gélifiée par un polymère carboxyvinylique et la composition B comprenant une phase aqueuse gélifiée par un polymère associatif, en particulier un polymère anionique associatif. Les compositions du kit sont conditionnées dans des compartiments distincts, accompagnés, éventuellement, de moyens d'application appropriés, identiques ou différents, tels que les pinceaux, les brosses ou les éponges. According to a particular embodiment, the compositions A and B are in the form of an aqueous gel, the composition A comprising an aqueous phase gelled by a carboxyvinyl polymer and the composition B comprising an aqueous phase gelled by an associative polymer, in particular an associative anionic polymer. The compositions of the kit are packaged in separate compartments, possibly accompanied by appropriate means of application, identical or different, such as brushes, brushes or sponges.
Selon un mode particulier et préféré, le kit comprend un pinceau ou une brosse pour application des compositions de l’invention. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the kit comprises a brush or a brush for applying the compositions of the invention.
La présente invention va désormais être illustrée par les exemples non limitatifs suivants. Sauf indication contraire, les % sont exprimés en % en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition. The present invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. Unless otherwise indicated, the% are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
Exemple 1 : Formulations pour coloration des sourcils EXAMPLE 1 Formulations for Coloring the Eyebrows
Première composition comprenant l’extrait de campêche First composition including log extract
Extrait de bois de campêche* 5% Logwood extract * 5%
G ly ce roi 5% G ly ce roi 5%
Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) 1 % Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) 1%
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1 ,2% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1.2%
Alkyl glucoside 4% Alkyl glucoside 4%
Soude (solution à 10%) 7% Soda (10% solution) 7%
Alcool benzylique 0,8% 0.8% benzyl alcohol
Métabisulfite de sodium 0,05% 0.05% sodium metabisulfite
Conservateurs qs Preservatives qs
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
*Logwood extract de la société SCRD * Logwood extract from SCRD
La composition A colorante est préparée selon le mode opératoire suivant : The coloring composition A is prepared according to the following procedure:
le diméthyl isosorbide, le glycérol, le métabisulfite de sodium et les conservateurs sont mélangés à de l’eau sous agitation ; dimethyl isosorbide, glycerol, sodium metabisulfite and preservatives are mixed with water with stirring;
le carbomer (gélifiant) est ensuite ajouté à la phase précédente et mélangé jusqu’à dissolution complète ; the carbomer (gelling agent) is then added to the previous phase and mixed until complete dissolution;
on ajoute ensuite la solution de soude à 10% ; la formule s’épaissit immédiatement ; the 10% sodium hydroxide solution is then added; the formula immediately thickens;
on ajoute alors l’extrait de bois de campêche et on mélange jusqu’à dissolution complète ; on ajoute enfin le tensioactif alkyl glucoside et de l’eau et on homogénéise le gel ainsi obtenu ; the logwood extract is then added and mixed until complete dissolution; finally the alkyl glucoside surfactant and water are added and the gel thus obtained is homogenized;
on vérifie que le pH se situe entre 7 et 7,5. it is checked that the pH is between 7 and 7.5.
Composition B révélatrice comprenant le gluconate de fer Disclosure composition B comprising iron gluconate
Polymère épaississant polyacrylate Polyacrylate thickening polymer
(Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, SEPIMAX ZEN® de SEPPIC) 0,5% (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, SEPIMAX ZEN ® from SEPPIC) 0.5%
Carbonate de sodium 0,5% Sodium carbonate 0.5%
Alcool benzylique 0,8% 0.8% benzyl alcohol
Conservateurs qs Preservatives qs
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
Gluconate de fer 3,6% Iron gluconate 3.6%
La composition B révélatrice est préparée selon le mode opératoire suivant : The revealing composition B is prepared according to the following procedure:
les ingrédients, à l’exception du gélifiant et du gluconate de fer sont mélangés sous agitation jusqu’à parfaire dissolution ; the ingredients, with the exception of the gelling agent and the iron gluconate, are mixed with stirring until perfect dissolution;
on ajoute ensuite le gélifiant jusqu’à parfaite dissolution et formation du gel ; the gelling agent is then added until perfect dissolution and formation of the gel;
le gluconate de fer est ajouté extemporanément à la composition B, avant application du produit sur les sourcils iron gluconate is added immediately to composition B, before application of the product to the eyebrows
L’application sur les sourcils est réalisée selon le mode opératoire suivant : The application to the eyebrows is carried out according to the following procedure:
on applique la composition A colorante sur les sourcils à l’aide d’un pinceau ou d’une brosse, avec un temps de pose de 4 à 6 minutes ; applying the coloring composition A to the eyebrows using a brush or a brush, with an exposure time of 4 to 6 minutes;
on applique ensuite la composition B révélatrice sur les sourcils à l’aide d’un pinceau ou d’une brosse, avec un temps de pose de 2 minutes ; the revealing composition B is then applied to the eyebrows using a brush or a brush, with an exposure time of 2 minutes;
on rince ensuite les sourcils. then rinse your eyebrows.
On obtient une couleur brune sur les sourcils avec une bonne tenue dans le temps. A brown color is obtained on the eyebrows with good resistance over time.
Exemple 2 : Sélection d’agents booster de pénétration, seuls ou en Example 2: Selection of penetration booster agents, alone or in combination
combinaison, sur la tenue de la couleur sur le sourcil jumpsuit, on holding the color on the eyebrow
La Demanderesse a montré que l’utilisation d’un ou plusieurs agent(s) booster de pénétration permettait d’améliorer le résultat couleur sur les sourcils et sa tenue dans le temps. Elle a testé différents agents parmi lesquels les phospholipides, les céramides, les saponines, les acides gras et sélectionné parmi les agents les plus performants notamment le dimethyl isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI de Univar) et le PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol® HE de BASF). Les résultats présentés ci-dessous illustrent l’effet respectivement de phospholipides et du diméthyl isosorbide. The Applicant has shown that the use of one or more penetration booster agent (s) makes it possible to improve the color result on the eyebrows and its hold over time. It tested various agents including phospholipids, ceramides, saponins, fatty acids and selected from among the best performing agents, in particular dimethyl isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI from Univar) and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol ® HE from BASF ). The results presented below illustrate the effect of phospholipids and dimethyl isosorbide respectively.
2.1 Effet du dimethyl isosorbide comparativement à des phospholipides Différentes compositions sont testées sur un panel de 10 personnes. 2.1 Effect of dimethyl isosorbide compared to phospholipids Different compositions are tested on a panel of 10 people.
Composition A1 : extrait de campêche + DMI 2% Composition A1: log extract + DMI 2%
Composition A2 : extrait de campêche + colorants cationiques (faible quantité) sans DMI Composition A3 : extrait de campêche + lécithine (phospholipide) 1 % Composition A2: extract of logwood + cationic dyes (low quantity) without DMI Composition A3: extract of logwood + lecithin (phospholipid) 1%
Composition B : comprenant le gluconate de fer Composition B: comprising iron gluconate
Les compositions A1 à A3 sont préparées selon l’exemple 1 et la composition B correspond à l’exemple décrit à l’exemple 1 .Compositions A1 to A3 are prepared according to example 1 and composition B corresponds to the example described in example 1.
Les compositions A1 à A4 sont appliquées 4 minutes. La composition B est appliquée 2 minutes. The compositions A1 to A4 are applied for 4 minutes. Composition B is applied for 2 minutes.
On évalue l’effet de la présence ou non de l’agent booster de pénétration de la couleur dans la composition A colorante en réalisant des observations au microscope sur des coupes de fibres kératiniques traitées ou non traitées par lesdites compositions (figure 1). Une fibre non traitée est caractérisée par un halo blanc (pourtour blanc) alors qu’une fibre traitée (colorée) est caractérisée par un halo noir. Plus ce halo est épais, plus la diffusion de la couleur dans la fibre kératinique est profonde. The effect of the presence or absence of the color penetration booster agent in the coloring composition A is evaluated by carrying out observations under a microscope on sections of keratin fibers treated or not treated with said compositions (FIG. 1). An untreated fiber is characterized by a white halo (white rim) while a treated (colored) fiber is characterized by a black halo. The thicker this halo, the deeper the color diffusion in the keratin fiber.
Les résultats sont présentés à la Figure 1 : la figure 1 a correspond à la condition non traitée ; on observe un halo coloré plus épais sur la figure 1 b (traité avec une composition A1 comprenant DMI), comparativement aux traitements avec des colorants cationiques sans DMI (figure 1 c) ou des phospholipides (figure 1 d). The results are presented in Figure 1: Figure 1a corresponds to the untreated condition; a thicker colored halo is observed in FIG. 1 b (treated with a composition A1 comprising DMI), compared to the treatments with cationic dyes without DMI (FIG. 1 c) or phospholipids (FIG. 1 d).
Ces résultats montrent que le dimethyl isosorbide favorise et/ou augmente la pénétration du colorant naturel (campêche) dans les fibres kératiniques de façon améliorée comparativement aux phospholipides. These results show that dimethyl isosorbide promotes and / or increases the penetration of the natural dye (logwood) into keratin fibers in an improved manner compared to phospholipids.
2.2 Effet du dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) 2.2 Effect of dimethyl isosorbide (DMI)
Des compositions similaires à celles décrites à l’exemple 1 sont reproduites ; on utilise deux colorants naturels en une teneur totale de 5%, à savoir un extrait de campêche (Logwood extract de SCRD) et un extrait de châtaignier (par exemple, celui de la société Couleurs de plantes) dans une proportion 60/40 (60% d’extrait de campêche et 40% d’extrait de châtaignier). Compositions similar to those described in Example 1 are reproduced; two natural dyes are used in a total content of 5%, namely a logwood extract (Logwood extract from SCRD) and a chestnut extract (for example, that of the company Couleurs de plantes) in a 60/40 proportion (60 % log extract and 40% chestnut extract).
Dans la composition comparative (sans DMI), le DMI est remplacé par de l’eau. On évalue à T0, T3, T7, T9 et T21 (exprimés en jours) les deux compositions selon les paramètres de couleur L (intensité) et delta E1 (tenue de la couleur dans le temps) à l’aide et de l’appareil de capture photo : Visia et du logiciel d’analyse d’image: Visilog. In the comparative composition (without DMI), the DMI is replaced by water. The two compositions are evaluated at T0, T3, T7, T9 and T21 (expressed in days) according to the color parameters L (intensity) and delta E1 (color fastness over time) using and the apparatus. photo capture: Visia and image analysis software: Visilog.
On obtient des valeurs pour les paramètres colorimétriques : We obtain values for the colorimetric parameters:
« L* » qui correspond à la luminosité de couleur du sourcil "L *" which corresponds to the color brightness of the eyebrow
« a* » (composante Vert / Rouge) et « b* » (composante Bleu / Jaune) qui correspondent à la couleur du sourcil "A *" (Green / Red component) and "b *" (Blue / Yellow component) which correspond to the color of the eyebrow
On mesure respectivement : We measure respectively:
- - la différence de perception de couleur par rapport au temps « 0 » (= temps avant application) : Delta E0 (DE0) = V((L0-Li)2 + (a0-ai)2 + (b0-bi)2) et - - the difference in color perception compared to time "0" (= time before application): Delta E0 (DE0) = V ((L0-Li) 2 + (a0-ai) 2 + (b0-bi) 2 ) and
- - la différence de perception de couleur par rapport au temps « 1 » (= temps immédiat après application) : Delta E1 (DE1) = V((L1 -Li)2 + (a1-ai)2 + (b1-bi)2)- - the difference in color perception compared to time "1" (= immediate time after application): Delta E1 (DE1) = V ((L1 -Li) 2 + (a1-ai) 2 + (b1-bi) 2 )
On procède ensuite à l’analyse statistique de ces paramètres (L*, Delta E0 et DeltaEI). We then proceed to the statistical analysis of these parameters (L *, Delta E0 and DeltaEI).
La tenue du produit est validée lorsqu’il y a une différence entre le temps avant application et les autres temps de mesures pour les paramètres L* et DeltaEI . The hold of the product is validated when there is a difference between the time before application and the other measurement times for the parameters L * and DeltaEI.
On fait ensuite le calcul du pourcentage de perte de la luminosité L* par rapport au temps immédiat après application : % = (Après-Avant) / Avant * 100 We then calculate the percentage of loss of brightness L * with respect to the immediate time after application:% = (After-Before) / Before * 100
On obtint les résultats suivants : The following results were obtained:
- Evaluation de l’intensité de la couleur (paramètre L) : Après application, il n’y a pas de différence en termes d’intensité entre les deux compositions. A T3, T7, T9 jours, la composition selon l’invention avec DMI est plus intense comparativement à la composition sans DMI. A T21 , cette différence est encore mesurable. - Evaluation of the intensity of the color (parameter L): After application, there is no difference in terms of intensity between the two compositions. At T3, T7, T9 days, the composition according to the invention with DMI is more intense compared to the composition without DMI. At T21, this difference is still measurable.
- Evaluation de la tenue de la couleur dans le temps (paramètre deltaEI) : Après application, il n’y a pas de différence en terme de couleur entre les deux compositions. A T3, T7, T9, T21 jours, la composition comparative sans DMI présente une variation de couleur (delta E1) plus importante que la composition avec DMI, qui permet donc une meilleure tenue de la couleur dans le temps. - Evaluation of the color fastness over time (deltaEI parameter): After application, there is no difference in terms of color between the two compositions. At T3, T7, T9, T21 days, the comparative composition without DMI exhibits a greater variation in color (delta E1) than the composition with DMI, which therefore allows better color fastness over time.
2.3 Effet du PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 2.3 Effect of PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
On reproduit l’exemple 2.1 en remplaçant le DMI par 1 % de PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol HE). La composition A colorante est appliquée avec un temps de pose de 6 minutes. Selon une alternative, elle est appliquée avec un temps de pose de 3 minutes. Example 2.1 is repeated, replacing the DMI with 1% of PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol HE). The coloring composition A is applied with an exposure time of 6 minutes. According to an alternative, it is applied with an exposure time of 3 minutes.
On observe des variations similaires (paramètres L et delta E1) à celles observées avec le DMI, avec des résultats améliorés avec le temps de pose de 6 minutes : le résultat intensité de la couleur et tenue dans le temps tient 21 jours avec le temps de pose de 6 minutes, contre 9 jours avec le temps de pose de 3 minutes. We observe similar variations (parameters L and delta E1) to those observed with the DMI, with improved results with the exposure time of 6 minutes: the result intensity of the color and held over time takes 21 days with the time of 6-minute exposure versus 9 days with the 3-minute exposure time.
Exemple 3 : Effet d’un pré-traitement oxydant sur le résultat coloration ou maquillage Example 3: Effect of an oxidizing pretreatment on the coloring or makeup result
Différentes compositions sont testées, selon le modèle décrit à l’exemple 1 : Different compositions are tested, according to the model described in Example 1:
Composition A1 : extrait de campêche + DMI 1 % Composition A1: log extract + DMI 1%
Composition A2 : extrait de campêche + Cetiol HE 1 % Composition A2: log extract + Cetiol HE 1%
Composition A3 : extrait de campêche seul Composition A3: extract of logwood alone
Composition A4 : extrait de campêche + DMI 1 % + Cetiol HE 1 % Composition A4: log extract + DMI 1% + Cetiol HE 1%
Composition B : comprenant le gluconate de fer Composition B: comprising iron gluconate
Les compositions A1 à A4 sont préparées selon l’exemple 1 et la composition B correspond à l’exemple décrit à l’exemple 1. Compositions A1 to A4 are prepared according to example 1 and composition B corresponds to the example described in example 1.
Les compositions A1 à A4 sont appliquées 4 ou 6 minutes. The compositions A1 to A4 are applied for 4 or 6 minutes.
La composition B est appliquée 2 minutes. Composition B is applied for 2 minutes.
On teste ces différentes compositions avec ou sans pré-traitement des fibres kératiniques (cheveux et sourcils) avec un agent oxydant, en particulier le peroxyde d’hydrogène à 12%. Le pré-traitement à l’agent oxydant est réalisé pendant 2 minutes ou pendant 10 minutes. Ce pré-traitement oxydant va permettre, en ouvrant les cuticules ou écailles des fibres kératiniques, de favoriser une meilleure pénétration des agents colorants. These different compositions are tested with or without pre-treatment of keratin fibers (hair and eyebrows) with an oxidizing agent, in particular 12% hydrogen peroxide. The pre-treatment with the oxidizing agent is carried out for 2 minutes or for 10 minutes. This oxidizing pre-treatment will allow, by opening the cuticles or scales of the keratin fibers, to promote better penetration of the coloring agents.
On évalue l’effet du pré-traitement oxydant et la présence ou non de l’agent booster de pénétration de la couleur dans la composition A colorante en réalisant des observations au microscope sur des coupes de fibres kératiniques traitées/ non traitées. Une fibre non traitée par l’agent oxydant est caractérisée par un halo blanc (pourtour blanc) alors qu’une fibre traitée (colorée) est caractérisée par un halo noir. Plus ce halo est épais, plus la diffusion de la couleur dans la fibre kératinique est profonde. On mesure ainsi le pourcentage de sourcils colorés (par comptage des sourcils colorés) pour chaque condition testée et la diffusion de la couleur (épaisseur du halo) en utilisant un logiciel MatLab, pour les sourcils pré-traités à l’agent oxydant (les sourcils non pré-traités à l’agent oxydant ne permettent pas une telle évaluation, leur couleur naturelle foncée- du fait de la présence de mélanine- ne permettant pas d’objectiver une différence de couleur). The effect of the oxidizing pre-treatment and the presence or absence of the color penetration booster agent in the coloring composition A are evaluated by carrying out observations under a microscope on sections of treated / untreated keratin fibers. A fiber not treated with the oxidizing agent is characterized by a white halo (white rim) while a treated (colored) fiber is characterized by a black halo. The thicker this halo, the deeper the color diffusion in the keratin fiber. We measure the percentage of colored eyebrows (by counting colored eyebrows) for each condition tested and the diffusion of color (thickness of the halo) using MatLab software, for eyebrows pretreated with the oxidizing agent (eyebrows not pretreated with the oxidizing agent do not allow such an evaluation, their dark natural color - due to the presence of melanin - not making it possible to objectify a difference in color).
Les résultats (% de sourcils colorés) sont présentés dans le tableau 1 suivant : The results (% of colored eyebrows) are presented in the following table 1:
Tableau 1 Table 1
nd= non déterminé (non mesuré) na = not determined (not measured)
Ces résultats montrent que le pré-traitement des sourcils avec un agent oxydant, avant application des compositions A et B, permet d’augmenter l’efficacité de coloration : le nombre de sourcils colorés après ce pré-traitement à l’agent oxydant est de 100% pour quasiment toutes les conditions, alors que sans pré-traitement oxydant, une proportion des sourcils ne sont pas colorés (auréole noire non détectable au microscope). These results show that the pre-treatment of the eyebrows with an oxidizing agent, before application of compositions A and B, makes it possible to increase the coloring efficiency: the number of eyebrows colored after this pre-treatment with the oxidizing agent is 100% for almost all conditions, while without oxidative pretreatment, a proportion of the eyebrows are not colored (black halo not detectable under the microscope).
L’utilisation de la combinaison de DMI et Cetiol HE avec un temps de pause de 6 minutes pour la composition A et 2 minutes pour la composition B donne les meilleurs résultats, que la fibre kératinique soit ou non traitée en amont par un agent oxydant. The use of the combination of DMI and Cetiol HE with a break time of 6 minutes for composition A and 2 minutes for composition B gives the best results, whether or not the keratin fiber is treated upstream with an oxidizing agent.
Une évaluation au microscope de l’épaisseur des halos colorés (en pm), représentative de la diffusion de la couleur dans la fibre est réalisée sur les sourcils pré traités avec l’agent oxydant. Comme indiqué ci-dessus, les sourcils non pré-traités à l’agent oxydant ne permettent pas une telle évaluation, leur couleur naturelle foncée- du fait de la présence de mélanine- ne permettant pas d’objectiver une différence de couleur. On obtient les résultats suivants présentés dans le tableau 2 : Tableau 2 An evaluation under the microscope of the thickness of the colored halos (in pm), representative of the diffusion of the color in the fiber is carried out on the eyebrows pretreated with the oxidizing agent. As indicated above, the eyebrows not pretreated with the oxidizing agent do not allow such an evaluation, their dark natural color - due to the presence of melanin - not making it possible to objectify a difference in color. The following results are obtained, presented in Table 2: Table 2
Ces résultats confirment que la meilleure condition pour une coloration optimale des sourcils est la condition DMI 1 % + CETIOL HE 1 % avec un temps de pose de la composition A colorante de 6 minutes et un temps de pose de la composition B révélatrice de 2 minutes. These results confirm that the best condition for optimal coloring of the eyebrows is the condition DMI 1% + CETIOL HE 1% with an exposure time of the coloring composition A of 6 minutes and an exposure time of the revealing composition B of 2 minutes. .
Exemple 4 : Formulations et mise en œuyre du procédé Example 4: Formulations and implementation of the process
4.1 Composition A (colorante) avec un extrait de campêche 4.1 Composition A (coloring) with log extract
Extrait de bois de campêche* 5% Logwood extract * 5%
G ly ce roi 5% G ly ce roi 5%
Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) 1 % Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) 1%
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1 ,2% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1.2%
Alkyl glucoside 4% Alkyl glucoside 4%
Soude (solution à 10%) 7% Soda (10% solution) 7%
Alcool benzylique 0,8% 0.8% benzyl alcohol
Métabisulfite de sodium 0,05% 0.05% sodium metabisulfite
Conservateurs qs Preservatives qs
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
*Logwood extract de la société SCRD * Logwood extract from SCRD
La composition A colorante est préparée selon le mode opératoire suivant : - le diméthyl isosorbide, le glycérol, le métabisulfite de sodium et les conservateurs sont mélangés à de l’eau sous agitation ; The coloring composition A is prepared according to the following procedure: - dimethyl isosorbide, glycerol, sodium metabisulfite and preservatives are mixed with water with stirring;
- le carbomer (gélifiant) est ensuite ajouté à la phase précédente et mélangé jusqu’à dissolution complète ; - the carbomer (gelling agent) is then added to the previous phase and mixed until complete dissolution;
- on ajoute ensuite la solution de soude à 10% ; la formule s’épaissit immédiatement ; - then adding the 10% sodium hydroxide solution; the formula immediately thickens;
- on ajoute alors l’extrait de bois de campêche et on mélange jusqu’à dissolution complète ; - then add the logwood extract and mix until completely dissolved;
- on ajoute enfin le tensioactif alkyl glucoside et de l’eau et on homogénéise le gel ainsi obtenu ; - Finally, the alkyl glucoside surfactant and water are added and the gel thus obtained is homogenized;
- on vérifie que le pH se situe entre 7 et 7,5. - we check that the pH is between 7 and 7.5.
4.2 Composition A (colorante) avec un extrait de châtaignier et un extrait de campêche 4.2 Composition A (coloring) with an extract of chestnut and an extract of logwood
Extrait de châtaignier 2,5% 2.5% chestnut extract
Extrait de bois de campêche* 2,5% Logwood extract * 2.5%
Glycérol 5% Glycerol 5%
Diméthyl isosorbide (DMI) 1 % Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) 1%
Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1 ,2% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1.2%
Alkyl glucoside 4% Alkyl glucoside 4%
Soude (solution à 10%) 7% Soda (10% solution) 7%
Alcool benzylique 0,8% 0.8% benzyl alcohol
Métabisulfite de sodium 0,05% 0.05% sodium metabisulfite
Conservateurs qs Preservatives qs
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
*Logwood extract de la société SCRD * Logwood extract from SCRD
On prépare la composition A selon le protocole décrit ci-dessus. Composition A is prepared according to the protocol described above.
4.3 Composition A (colorante) avec un extrait de bois rouge, un extrait de châtaignier et un extrait de campêche 4.3 Composition A (coloring) with an extract of red wood, an extract of chestnut and an extract of logwood
Extrait de Brasiletto (société SCRD) 1 ,66% Brasiletto extract (SCRD company) 1, 66%
Extrait de châtaignier 1 ,66% Chestnut extract 1, 66%
Extrait de bois de campêche* 1 ,66% Logwood extract * 1, 66%
Glycérol 5% Glycerol 5%
Diméthyl isosorbide (DMI) 1 % Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1 ,2% Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI) 1% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) 1.2%
Alkyl glucoside 4% Alkyl glucoside 4%
Soude (solution à 10%) 7% Soda (10% solution) 7%
Alcool benzylique 0,8% 0.8% benzyl alcohol
Métabisulfite de sodium 0,05% 0.05% sodium metabisulfite
Conservateurs qs Preservatives qs
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
*Logwood extract de la société SCRD * Logwood extract from SCRD
4.4 Composition B révélatrice comprenant le qluconate de fer 4.4 Disclosure composition B comprising iron qluconate
Polymère épaississant polyacrylate Polyacrylate thickening polymer
(Polvacrylate Crosspolvmer-6. SEPIMAX ZEN® de SEPPIC) 0,5% (Polvacrylate Crosspolvmer-6. SEPIMAX ZEN ® from SEPPIC) 0.5%
Carbonate de sodium 0,5% Sodium carbonate 0.5%
Alcool benzylique 0,8% 0.8% benzyl alcohol
Conservateurs qs Preservatives qs
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100% Demineralized water qs 100%
Gluconate de fer 3,6% Iron gluconate 3.6%
La composition B révélatrice est préparée selon le mode opératoire suivant : The revealing composition B is prepared according to the following procedure:
- les ingrédients, à l’exception du gélifiant et du gluconate de fer sont mélangés sous agitation jusqu’à parfaire dissolution ; - the ingredients, with the exception of the gelling agent and the iron gluconate, are mixed with stirring until perfect dissolution;
- on ajoute ensuite le gélifiant jusqu’à parfaite dissolution et formation du gel ; - the gelling agent is then added until perfect dissolution and formation of the gel;
- le gluconate de fer est ajouté extemporanément à la composition B, avant application du produit sur les sourcils - the iron gluconate is added extemporaneously to composition B, before application of the product to the eyebrows
4.5 Procédé de coloration ou maquillage des sourcils 4.5 Method of coloring or making up the eyebrows
Le protocole de coloration ou maquillage des sourcils mettant en oeuvre successivement la composition A et la composition B sus-décrites est le suivant : The protocol for coloring or making up the eyebrows successively using composition A and composition B described above is as follows:
1/ Nettoyer les sourcils à l’eau micellaire 1 / Clean the eyebrows with micellar water
21 Essuyer avec un coton imbibé d’eau 21 Wipe with cotton wool soaked in water
3/ Brosser les sourcils avec un goupillon 3 / Brush the eyebrows with a brush
4/ Essuyer le sourcil pour enlever toute trace d’humidité à l’aide d’un mouchoir en papier 5/Appliquer de la vaseline en couche très épaisse autour du sourcil pour ne pas teinter la peau 4 / Wipe the eyebrow to remove all traces of moisture using a tissue 5 / Apply petroleum jelly in a very thick layer around the eyebrow so as not to tint the skin
6/ Appliquer la composition A en couche épaisse en suivant bien la ligne du sourcil de façon à bien recouvrir tous les poils (Temps de pose : 4 min. Ne pas essuyer le produit) 6 / Apply composition A in a thick layer, carefully following the eyebrow line so to cover all the hairs well (Exposure time: 4 min. Do not wipe the product)
71 Mélange de la composition B : ajouter le Gluconate de fer dans le pot blanc contenant la composition B et mélanger jusqu’à ce qu’il n’y ait plus de grain 71 Mixture of composition B: add the iron gluconate to the white jar containing composition B and mix until there is no more grain
8/ Appliquer la composition B ainsi préparée extemporanément en couche épaisse par- dessus la composition A, en suivant bien la ligne du sourcil de façon à bien recouvrir tous les poils (Temps de pose : 2 min. Pendant ce temps, rectifier si besoin le contour du sourcil à l’aide d’un coton tige). 8 / Apply composition B thus prepared extemporaneously in a thick layer over composition A, carefully following the eyebrow line so as to cover all the hairs (Exposure time: 2 min. During this time, correct if necessary eyebrow contour using a cotton swab).
9/ A la fin des 2 min de pose, essuyer l’excès de produit à l’aide d’un coton sec suivit d’un coton humidifié avec de l’eau (brume) Retouches possibles. 9 / At the end of the 2 min of application, wipe off the excess product using a dry cotton pad followed by a cotton pad moistened with water (mist).
On obtient une couleur brune sur les sourcils avec une bonne tenue dans le temps. A brown color is obtained on the eyebrows with good resistance over time.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Procédé cosmétique de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, comprenant l’application sur lesdites fibres kératiniques, d’au moins : 1. Cosmetic process for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising the application to said keratin fibers, of at least:
a) Une composition cosmétique A colorante comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, un ou plusieurs colorant(s) naturel(s) choisi(s) dans le groupe constitué par les néoflavonoïdes, les tanins galliques et tanins catéchiques, les proanthocyanidines et leurs dérivés, et leurs mélanges, ou de préférence un ou plusieurs extraits végétaux en contenant, et avantageusement un agent antioxydant, a) A cosmetic composition A dye comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye (s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechic tannins, proanthocyanidins and their derivatives , and their mixtures, or preferably one or more plant extracts containing them, and advantageously an antioxidant agent,
b) Une composition cosmétique B révélatrice comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un sel de fer et/ou un sel d’aluminium, en particulier un gluconate de fer ou un sulfate de fer, b) A revealing cosmetic composition B comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one iron salt and / or one aluminum salt, in particular an iron gluconate or an iron sulphate,
la composition A étant appliquée avant ou après la composition B, de préférence avant la composition B, composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B,
caractérisé en ce que la composition A comprend en outre un agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, choisi dans le groupe constitué par les éthers bicycliques, les esters d’acides gras comprenant des chaînes hydrocarbonées en C6 à C18 polyéthoxylées, et leurs mélanges, de préférence les éthers bicycliques, chaque cycle du bicycle comprenant un nombre n de chaînons compris entre 3 et 10, les esters d’acides gras comportant une chaîne hydrocarbonée en C6 à C18, saturée ou insaturée, linéaire ou ramifiée à l’aide d’autres chaînes hydrocarbonées en C6 à C18, chacune des chaînes hydrocarbonées étant polyéthoxylée, avec un degré d’éthoxylation d’au moins 2, notamment de 2 à 12, et leurs mélanges.. characterized in that the composition A further comprises an agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, chosen from the group consisting of ethers bicyclic, fatty acid esters comprising polyethoxylated C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, and mixtures thereof, preferably bicyclic ethers, each cycle of the bicycle comprising a number n of links between 3 and 10, fatty acid esters comprising a C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched using other C6 to C18 hydrocarbon chains, each of the hydrocarbon chains being polyethoxylated, with a degree of ethoxylation of at least 2, in particular from 2 to 12, and their mixtures.
2. Procédé cosmétique selon la revendication 1 , dans lequel la composition A comprend un agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, choisi parmi le dimethyl isosorbide, le PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, et leur mélange. 2. Cosmetic method according to claim 1, in which the composition A comprises an agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye in the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, chosen from dimethyl isosorbide, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, and their mixture.
3. Procédé cosmétique selon la revendication 2, dans lequel la composition A comprend du dimethyl isosorbide comme agent favorisant et/ou augmentant la pénétration du colorant naturel dans les fibres kératiniques. 3. Cosmetic method according to claim 2, in which composition A comprises dimethyl isosorbide as an agent promoting and / or increasing the penetration of the natural dye into keratin fibers.
4. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une des revendications 1 à 3, dans lequel le sel de fer et/ou le sel d’aluminium, de préférence le gluconate de fer ou un sulfate de fer est ajouté extemporanément à la composition B révélatrice, avant application de celle-ci sur lesdites fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils. 4. Cosmetic method according to one of claims 1 to 3, in which the iron salt and / or the aluminum salt, preferably iron gluconate or an iron sulphate is added extemporaneously to the revealing composition B, before application thereof on said keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows.
5. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la composition A colorante comprend au moins un colorant naturel choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'hématoxyline, l'hématéine, la braziléine, la braziline, l’acide gallique, la catéchine, la castalagine, la vescalagine, et/ou les procyanidines et leurs mélanges, ou un extrait végétal en contenant, en particulier un extrait végétal choisi dans le groupe constitué par un extrait de campêche, un extrait de bois rouge, un extrait de châtaignier, un extrait de noix de Galle, un extrait d’écorce d’Anogeissus un extrait de pin, un extrait de thé, un extrait de vigne, un extrait de Sorgho, un extrait de cacao, extrait de myrobalan, un extrait d’hibiscus, un extrait de fraisier et leurs mélanges, de préférence un extrait de campêche, un extrait de bois rouge, un extrait de châtaignier, et leurs mélanges. 5. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coloring composition A comprises at least one natural dye chosen from the group consisting of hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagine, vescalagine, and / or procyanidins and their mixtures, or a plant extract containing them, in particular a plant extract chosen from the group consisting of log extract, red wood extract, extract of chestnut, Galle extract, Anogeissus bark extract, pine extract, tea extract, vine extract, Sorghum extract, cocoa extract, myrobalan extract, extract of hibiscus, an extract of strawberry and their mixtures, preferably an extract of logwood, an extract of red wood, an extract of chestnut, and their mixtures.
6. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le ou les colorants naturels ou le ou les extraits végétaux en contenant sont présents en une teneur totale allant de 0,1 à 10%, de préférence de 2 à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. 6. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the natural colorant (s) or the plant extract (s) containing it are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la composition A colorante comprend en outre un tensioactif non ionique, en particulier un alkyl glucoside, de préférence le decyl glucoside. 7. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coloring composition A further comprises a nonionic surfactant, in particular an alkyl glucoside, preferably decyl glucoside.
8. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la composition A colorante comprend en outre un gélifiant polymérique, de préférence un gélifiant polymérique acrylique. 8. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the coloring composition A further comprises a polymeric gelling agent, preferably an acrylic polymeric gelling agent.
9. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la composition A comprend en outre au moins une matière colorante additionnelle choisie parmi les pigments, les colorants et leurs mélanges, en particulier un colorant direct, de préférence un colorant cationique direct. 9. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition A also comprises at least one additional coloring material chosen from pigments, dyes and their mixtures, in particular a direct dye, preferably a direct cationic dye. .
10. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel la composition B révélatrice comprend au moins un polymère filmogène. 10. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the revealing composition B comprises at least one film-forming polymer.
1 1. Procédé cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel : 1 1. Cosmetic method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which:
la composition A colorante est appliquée sur les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, avec un temps de pose allant de 30 secondes à 30 minutes, préférentiellement de 45 secondes à 10 minutes, préférentiellement de 1 minutes à 6 minutes, la composition B révélatrice est appliquée les fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, avec un temps de pose allant de 30 secondes à 10 minutes, préférentiellement de 45 secondes à 5 minutes, the coloring composition A is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 1 minutes to 6 minutes, the revealing composition B is applied to the keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 45 seconds to 5 minutes ,
la composition A étant appliquée avant ou après la composition B, de préférence avant la composition B, composition A being applied before or after composition B, preferably before composition B,
lesdites fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, étant ensuite, dans une étape finale et de façon optionnelle, rincées. said keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, then being, in a final step and optionally, rinsed.
12. Kit ou dispositif de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, à plusieurs compartiments séparés et comprenant : 12. Kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments and comprising:
dans un compartiment, la composition A colorante telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 , 2, 5 à 9 ; in a compartment, the coloring composition A as defined in any one of claims 1, 2, 5 to 9;
dans un autre compartiment séparé la composition B révélatrice telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 et 10 et caractérisée en ce qu’elle ne comprend pas le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium, et in another separate compartment, the revealing composition B as defined in any one of claims 1 and 10 and characterized in that it does not comprise the iron and / or aluminum salt, and
dans un autre compartiment séparé, le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium destiné à être mélangé extemporanément à la composition B révélatrice avant application sur les fibres kératiniques, in another separate compartment, the iron and / or aluminum salt intended to be mixed extemporaneously with the revealing composition B before application to the keratin fibers,
et avantageusement une notice d’utilisation. and advantageously a user manual.
13. Kit ou dispositif de coloration ou maquillage des fibres kératiniques, en particulier les cils et/ou les sourcils et de préférence les sourcils, à plusieurs compartiments séparés et comprenant : dans un compartiment, la composition A colorante telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 , 2, 5 à 9 ; 13. Kit or device for coloring or making up keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, with several separate compartments and comprising: in a compartment, the coloring composition A as defined in any one of claims 1, 2, 5 to 9;
dans un autre compartiment séparé la composition B révélatrice telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 et 10 et caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend le sel de fer et/ou d’aluminium, in another separate compartment, the revealing composition B as defined in any one of claims 1 and 10 and characterized in that it comprises the iron and / or aluminum salt,
et avantageusement une notice d’utilisation. and advantageously a user manual.
14. Kit ou dispositif selon la revendication 12 ou la revendication 13 dans lequel : 14. Kit or device according to claim 12 or claim 13, in which:
- la composition A colorante comprend : - the coloring composition A comprises:
i) un colorant naturel choisi dans le groupe constitué par un extrait de campêche, un extrait de châtaignier, un extrait de Sorgho, un extrait de pin, un extrait de thé, un extrait de noix de Galle, un extrait de cacao, un extrait de Brasiletto, et leurs mélanges ; i) a natural dye chosen from the group consisting of log extract, chestnut extract, Sorghum extract, pine extract, tea extract, gall nut extract, cocoa extract, extract of Brasiletto, and their mixtures;
ii) un decyl glucoside comme tensioactif non ionique ; ii) a decyl glucoside as a nonionic surfactant;
iii) un sodium métabisulfite comme agent antioxydant ; iii) sodium metabisulfite as an antioxidant;
iv) un polymère acrylique comme gélifiant, iv) an acrylic polymer as gelling agent,
v) un ajusteur de pH et v) a pH adjuster and
vi) optionnellement des pigments noirs et/ou colorants directs cationiques; vi) optionally black pigments and / or direct cationic dyes;
- la composition B révélatrice comprend : - the revealing composition B comprises:
vii) un polymère acrylique comme gélifiant, vii) an acrylic polymer as gelling agent,
viii) un ajusteur de pH, et viii) a pH adjuster, and
ix) optionnellement un polymère filmogène, et ix) optionally a film-forming polymer, and
- le sel de fer est le gluconate de fer. - the iron salt is iron gluconate.
EP19829120.5A 2018-12-20 2019-12-18 Method for dyeing or making up eyebrows Pending EP3897547A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1873629A FR3090377B1 (en) 2018-12-20 2018-12-20 Eyebrow coloring or makeup process
PCT/EP2019/085862 WO2020127431A1 (en) 2018-12-20 2019-12-18 Method for dyeing or making up eyebrows

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EP3897547A1 true EP3897547A1 (en) 2021-10-27

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EP (1) EP3897547A1 (en)
JP (1) JP2022514357A (en)
KR (1) KR20210105937A (en)
CN (1) CN113453658B (en)
FR (1) FR3090377B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2020127431A1 (en)

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FR3117849A1 (en) * 2020-12-17 2022-06-24 L'oreal Process for dyeing keratinous fibers using two distinct compounds capable of forming covalent bonds together as well as a particular metal salt
WO2022128901A1 (en) * 2020-12-17 2022-06-23 L'oreal Process for dyeing keratin fibres using two different compounds that are capable of forming covalent bonds together and also a particular metal salt or a salt of a metal belonging to the rare-earth metal group or a particular organometallic compound
FR3130574A1 (en) * 2021-12-17 2023-06-23 L'oreal Process for dyeing keratin fibers using a copolymer based on acetoacetate functions, a crosslinking agent, a coloring agent and a metal compound
FR3130559A1 (en) * 2021-12-17 2023-06-23 L'oreal Process for dyeing keratin fibers using a (co)polymer based on acetoacetate functions, a crosslinking agent, a coloring agent and a metal compound
FR3134988A1 (en) * 2022-04-28 2023-11-03 L'oreal Makeup process with the application of a composition comprising a polyphenol and a polyoxyalkylenated and/or polyglycerol compound, and a coloring material then application of an anhydrous composition
FR3134987A1 (en) * 2022-04-28 2023-11-03 L'oreal Makeup process using a polyphenol and at least one polyoxyethylene silicone, compositions for implementing the process
WO2023208806A1 (en) * 2022-04-28 2023-11-02 L'oreal Makeup process with the application of a composition comprising a polyphenol and a polyoxyalkylenated compound, and a dyestuff, followed by the application of an anhydrous or emulsified composition
FR3134980A1 (en) * 2022-04-28 2023-11-03 L'oreal Care and/or makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a compound capable of reacting by hydrogen bonds with the polyphenol, a monoalcohol and an antioxidant agent
FR3134978A1 (en) * 2022-04-28 2023-11-03 L'oreal Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated and/or polyglycerol silicone compound, a monoalcohol, and process using it
FR3134989A1 (en) * 2022-04-28 2023-11-03 L'oreal Makeup process with the application of a composition comprising a polyphenol and a polyoxyalkylene compound, and a coloring material then application of an anhydrous composition
KR20240059685A (en) * 2022-10-25 2024-05-08 코스맥스 주식회사 Hair dye composition comprising potassium alum and polyurethane-10

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US11547658B2 (en) 2023-01-10
FR3090377A1 (en) 2020-06-26
WO2020127431A1 (en) 2020-06-25
KR20210105937A (en) 2021-08-27
FR3090377B1 (en) 2021-09-10
US20210378946A1 (en) 2021-12-09
CN113453658B (en) 2024-05-03
JP2022514357A (en) 2022-02-10
WO2020127431A9 (en) 2020-08-13

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