EP3873421A1 - Composition de principes actifs pour le soin et la modification des cheveux humains - Google Patents

Composition de principes actifs pour le soin et la modification des cheveux humains

Info

Publication number
EP3873421A1
EP3873421A1 EP19797675.6A EP19797675A EP3873421A1 EP 3873421 A1 EP3873421 A1 EP 3873421A1 EP 19797675 A EP19797675 A EP 19797675A EP 3873421 A1 EP3873421 A1 EP 3873421A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
polyquaternium
group
organic silicon
keratinous material
copolymer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP19797675.6A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Rene Krohn
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3873421A1 publication Critical patent/EP3873421A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736—Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers

Definitions

  • Active ingredient composition for the care and modification of human hair
  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for treating a keratinous material, the composition comprising an organic silicon compound as a first component and a second component
  • Component comprises at least one cationic polymer, and the use of the cosmetic agent.
  • Air pollutants include polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, volatile organic ones
  • Air pollutants can be amplified in the presence of other air pollutants and under the influence of UV radiation.
  • Free radicals are metabolic products that also occur naturally in the body. In large quantities, free radicals can promote irritation and inflammation and accelerate the aging process. In this case one speaks of "oxidative damage”. Free radicals can also cause hair damage, for example as
  • organosilicon compounds from the group of the silanes which comprise at least one hydroxyl group and / or hydrolyzable group. Due to the
  • the silanes are reactive substances which hydrolyze or oligomerize or polymerize in the presence of water.
  • the oligomerization or polymerization of the silanes initiated by the presence of the water ultimately leads to the formation of a film when used on a keratinic material, which film can develop a protective effect.
  • the object underlying the present invention is to provide a product with an improved care and / or protective effect.
  • the present invention was based on the object of providing a cosmetic agent which, after a hair treatment, enables a neat after-treatment which gives the damaged hair special care.
  • a cosmetic agent for the treatment of a keratinous material comprising
  • a keratinous material means hair, skin, nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails). Wool, furs and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinous material.
  • a keratin material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails.
  • Keratinous material is very particularly preferably understood to mean human hair, in particular scalp and / or whiskers.
  • the cosmetic agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound as the first constituent essential to the invention.
  • Preferred organic silicon compound as the first constituent essential to the invention.
  • Silicon compounds are selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • Organic silicon compounds which are also referred to alternatively as organosilicon compounds, are compounds which either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is attached to the silicon via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom. Atom is attached.
  • the organic silicon compounds are compounds that contain one to three silicon atoms.
  • the organic silicon compounds particularly preferably contain one or two
  • silane stands for a group of substances that are based on a silicon framework and hydrogen.
  • the hydrogen atoms are completely or partially replaced by organic groups, such as (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups. Some of the hydrogen atoms in the organic silanes can also be replaced by hydroxyl groups.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic compound
  • Silicon compound which is preferably selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, wherein the organic silicon compound comprises one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material has at least one organic silicon compound selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound also having one or more basic group and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • This basic group can be, for example, an amino group, an alkylamino group or a dialkylamino group, which is preferably connected to a silicon atom via a linker.
  • the basic group is preferably an amino group, a C 1 -C 6 -alkylamino group or a di (Ci-C6) alkylamino group.
  • the hydrolyzable group or groups is preferably a C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy group, in particular an ethoxy group or a methoxy group. It is preferred if the hydrolyzable group is attached directly to the silicon atom. If, for example, the hydrolyzable group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R "R"'Si-0-CH 2 -CH3. The radicals R ', R "and R"' represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and / or (II).
  • the compounds of formulas (I) and (II) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and / or (II),
  • Ri, R 2 both represent a hydrogen atom
  • L represents a linear, double-bonded Ci-C6-alkylene group, preferably a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) or an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-),
  • R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group, a represents the number 3 and
  • R5, R5 ', R5 "independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • R6, R6 'and R6 "independently of one another represent a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" independently of one another represent a linear or branched, double-bonded Ci-C2o-alkylene group
  • R7 and Re independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C6-alkyl group, a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group, a C2-C6-alkenyl group, an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (III) stand
  • Examples of a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • Examples of a C2-C6 alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C2-C6 alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl.
  • a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group, the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of a linear double-bonded Ci-C2o-alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched.
  • Examples of branched, double-bonded C3-C 2 o-alkylene groups are (-CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -) and (-CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -CH 2 -).
  • Ri R 2 NL-Si (OR 3 ) a (R4) b (I) the radicals Ri and R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • the organic silicon compound In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, double-bonded Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • -L- preferably represents a linear, double-bonded Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group. More preferably, -L- stands for a linear double-bonded Ci-C6-alkylene group. -L- is particularly preferably a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) or a butylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2- ). L very particularly preferably represents a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the radical R3 stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the radical R4 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • R3 and R4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and b stands for the integer 3 - a. If a stands for the number 3, then b is 0. If a stands for the number 2, then b is 1. If a stands for the number 1, then b is 2.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material had at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I ) in which the radicals R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • Organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) are particularly suitable
  • (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • (3-Aminopropyl) triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II)
  • the organosilicon compounds of the formula (II) have the silicon-containing groups (RsO) c (R6) dSi- and -Si (R6 ’) d '(OR5’) c ⁇ at their two ends.
  • an organic silicon compound of the formula (II) contains at least one group from the group consisting of - (A) - and - [NR7- (A ') j- and - [0- (A ”) j- and - [NR8 - (A '”)] -
  • c stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3 - c. If c stands for the number 3, then d is 0. If c stands for the number 2, then d is 1. If c stands for the number 1, then d is 2.
  • c 'stands for an integer from 1 to 3 and d' stands for the integer 3 - c '. If c 'stands for the number 3, then d' is equal to 0. If c 'stands for the number 2, then d' is equal to 1. If c 'stands for the number 1, then d' is equal to 2.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II)
  • R5 and R5 'independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • the radicals e, f, g and h can independently of one another stand for the number 0 or 1, at least one radical from e, f, g and h being different from zero.
  • the abbreviations e, f, g and h therefore define which of the groupings - (A) e - and - [NR7- (A ')] f - and - [0- (A ”)] g - and - [ NR8- (A '”)] h - are located in the middle part of the organic silicon compound of the formula (II).
  • radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” independently of one another stand for a linear or branched, double-bonded Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” independently of one another stand for a linear, double-bonded Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A “” independently of one another stand for a linear double-bonded Ci-C6-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” are particularly preferably independently of one another a methylene group (- CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2 -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A “” very particularly preferably represent a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR7- (A ’)] -.
  • the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR8- (A ”’)] -.
  • radicals R7 and Rs independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C6-alkyl group, a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group, a C 2 -C6-alkenyl group, an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group or a grouping of the Formula (III)
  • radicals R7 and Rs very particularly preferably independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II)
  • Ci-C6-alkylene group - A and A 'independently of one another represent a linear, double-bonded Ci-C6-alkylene group
  • R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II), wherein
  • a and A 'independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-) or a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2),
  • R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
  • Bis (trimethoxysilylpropyl) amine with CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased, for example, from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • Bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine also referred to as 3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine, with the CAS number 13497-18-2 can be obtained, for example, from Sigma -Aldrich can be purchased or is commercially available from Evonik under the Dynasylan 1122 product name.
  • N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine is alternatively also referred to as bis (3-trimethoxysilylpropyl) -N-methylamine and can be obtained from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem
  • Treatment of a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV)
  • the compounds of formula (IV) are organic silicon compounds selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydroxyl groups and / or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • organic silicon compound (s) of the formula (IV) can also be referred to as silanes of the alkylalkoxysilane or alkylhydroxysilane type,
  • R 9 represents a Ci-Ci2-alkyl group
  • Rio represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • - Rn represents a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains, in addition to the organic silicon compound (s) of the formula (I), at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV)
  • R9 represents a Ci-Ci 2 alkyl group
  • R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group
  • R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains, in addition to the organic silicon compound (s) of formula (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of formula (IV)
  • Rg represents a CiC- 12 alkyl group
  • R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group
  • R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material contains, in addition to the organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and (II), at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV)
  • Rg represents a CiC- 12 alkyl group
  • R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group
  • R 11 represents a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group
  • the Rg radical represents a CiC- 12 alkyl group.
  • This CiC- 12 alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched.
  • R9 preferably represents a linear Ci-Cs-alkyl group.
  • Rg preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group or an n-dodecyl group.
  • Rg particularly preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-octyl group.
  • the radical R 10 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • R 10 particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • the radical Rn stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • Rn particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and m stands for the integer 3 - k. If k stands for the number 3, then m is 0. If k stands for the number 2, then m is 1. If k stands for the number 1, then m is 2.
  • the agent for the treatment of a keratinous material contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in which the rest k stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder m stands for the number 0.
  • the agent is an organic silicon compound (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, i.e. an aminopropyltriethoxysilane (AMEO), and / or 3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine, i.e. a bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine.
  • 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane i.e. an aminopropyltriethoxysilane (AMEO)
  • 3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine i.e. a bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine.
  • the organic one is organic one
  • an agent is characterized in that it contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV).
  • an agent in an explicitly very particularly preferred embodiment, contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, and additionally at least contains an organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltriethoxysilane.
  • organic silicon compound of the formula (I) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane
  • an organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) which is selected from the
  • an agent is characterized in that the agent contains - based on the total weight of the agent:
  • At least one first organic silicon compound which is selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane , (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-Dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane and (2-Dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane, and
  • At least one second organic silicon compound which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane
  • Silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group can react with one another in a condensation reaction. For this reason, both the organosilicon compounds with at least one hydrolyzable group and their hydrolysis and / or condensation products can be present in the agent. When using organosilicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group, both the organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group and their condensation products may be present in the agent.
  • a condensation product is understood to mean a product that by reaction of at least two organic silicon compounds, each with at least one hydroxyl group or
  • condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers. Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the balance shifts from monomeric organic silicon compounds to the condensation product.
  • the cosmetic composition for treating a keratinous material contains at least one cationic polymer as further component b).
  • the organic silicon compounds for example (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, i.e. an aminopropyltriethoxysilane (AMEO), or for example 3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine, i.e. a bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine is combined with at least one cationic polymer.
  • the organic silicon compounds for example (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, i.e. an aminopropyltriethoxysilane (AMEO), or for example 3- (triethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine, i.e. a bis (triethoxysilylpropyl)
  • cationic polymer means a polymer which has a cationic formal charge. This can be located along the backbone of the polymer or can be in one
  • the cationic formal charge can also arise from protonation in an acidic environment.
  • the term “polymer” has the usual meaning known to the person skilled in the art.
  • Bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine is particularly powerful in terms of post-treatment care.
  • the combination of cationic polymer and the silanes mentioned, which cover the hair surface, is particularly effective in solving the problem on which the invention is based.
  • the hair surface is hydrophobized and frizz is reduced.
  • the hair becomes softer, especially if it has been subjected to high chemical stress.
  • the cationic polymer is composed of monomer units which have a cationic formal charge, preferably one
  • the cationic polymer is selected from the group consisting of acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylates copolymer, acrylates / octylacrylamide / diphenyl
  • Diethylenetriamine Copolymer Adipic Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol-Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Diethylene
  • Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer Polyacrylamide, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-1 Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, 28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-46 Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48,
  • the cationic polymer chitosan is very particularly preferred.
  • component b) comprising the cationic polymer is used in the cosmetic composition with a further skin moisturizing agent.
  • Skin moisturizer is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, urea,
  • Amino acid derivatives natural betaine compounds, lactic acid, lactates, especially sodium lactate, and / or ethylhexyloxyglycerol.
  • the selection of these further skin moisturizers increases the nourishing character of the cosmetic agent.
  • Cationic polymers may also be among these skin moisturizers. These are then present in addition to the cationic polymers used according to the invention.
  • components b) are present in the cosmetic composition in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 6 % By weight.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material can in particular comprise an agent for cleaning a keratinous material, an agent for maintaining a keratinous material, an agent for maintaining and cleaning a keratinous material and / or an agent for temporarily reshaping a keratinous material.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material further comprises 0.001 to 20% by weight of at least one quaternary compound which is not a polymeric compound.
  • the at least one quaternary compound is selected from at least one of the groups consisting of
  • radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical with a chain length of 8 to 30
  • Carbon atoms and A stands for a physiologically acceptable anion
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material further comprises a setting compound, preferably selected from the group consisting of waxes,
  • a large number of synthetic polymers have already been developed as strengthening compounds which are used in the agent for treating a keratinous material Materials can be used.
  • waxes are used as strengthening compounds.
  • the polymers and / or waxes give one when used on the keratinous material Polymer film or film that gives the hairstyle a strong hold on the one hand, but on the other hand is sufficiently flexible so that it does not break under stress.
  • polymers include cationic polymers or polymers with cationizable groups, these may additionally be present in the cosmetic composition in addition to the cationic polymers used according to the invention.
  • Suitable synthetic polymers include, for example, polymers with the following INCI names: acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymer, acrylamides / DMAPA acrylates / methoxy PEG methacrylate copolymer, acrylates / acetoacetoxyethyl methacrylate copolymer,
  • Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylate-6, Polybeta-Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, Polyethylacrylate, Polyethylene
  • Terephthalates polymethacryloyl ethyl betaine, polypentaerythrityl terephthalates,
  • VP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate and Styrene / VP Copolymer.
  • Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose are also united.
  • Hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose are Hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose.
  • the setting compound preferably comprises a vinylpyrrolidone-containing polymer.
  • the setting compound particularly preferably comprises a polymer selected from the group consisting of
  • cationic polymers are present among the strengthening compounds disclosed herein, they are used in addition to the cationic polymers used in the present invention.
  • Another preferred strengthening compound is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI), which is sold under the name “Amphomer®” by Akzo Nobel.
  • the setting compound is a synthetic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer (VP / VA copolymer), vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (INCI), VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer (INCI), Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer (INCI) and mixtures thereof.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • VP / VA copolymer vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer
  • VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer INCCI
  • Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer INCI
  • the cosmetic agent contains as component d) at least one cationic surfactant.
  • This is particularly preferably a cationic surfactant of the formula (V) XQ
  • R12, R13, R14 independently of one another represent a C1-C6-alkyl group, a C2-C6-alkenyl group or a C2-C6-hydroxyalkyl group,
  • R15 stands for a C8-C28-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group and
  • X- stands for a physiologically compatible anion, and / or the cosmetic agent preferably contains at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (VI),
  • Rl6 represents a C1 -C6 alkyl group
  • Rl7, Rl8 independently of one another for a C7-C27-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-
  • X- stands for a physiologically compatible anion, and / or the cosmetic agent preferably contains at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (VII),
  • R19, R20 independently of one another for a C1-C6-alkyl group or a C2-C6-
  • Hydroxyalkyl group R21, R22 independently of one another for a C7-C27-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-
  • X- stands for a physiologically compatible anion, and / or the cosmetic agent preferably contains at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (VIII), NR23R24R25 (VIII) in which
  • R23, R24 independently of one another represent a C1-C6-alkyl group, a C2-C6-alkenyl group or a C2-C6-hydroxyalkyl group, and
  • R25 stands for a C8-C28-alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22-alkyl group.
  • the cationic surfactants of the formula (VIII) are amine derivatives, so-called
  • the organic radicals R23, R24 and R25 are bound directly to the nitrogen atom. In the acidic pH range, these are cationized, i.e. the nitrogen atom is then protonated.
  • the physiologically compatible counterions are suitable as counterions. Steamidopropyl dimethylamine is particularly preferred for the cationic surfactants of the formula (VIII).
  • the amount of cationic surfactant is 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition .
  • the cationic surfactant comprises a hydrophobic head group with a cationic charge and one or two hydrophobic end parts, the hydrophobic end part or the hydrophobic end parts being straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups, which are preferably one Have chain lengths from C6 to C30, more preferably C8 to C26, particularly preferably C10 to C22.
  • the cationic surfactant has an ester function, an ether function, a ketone function, an alcohol function or an amide function.
  • the cosmetic agent further contains a nonionic surfactant.
  • a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of
  • Alkyl glucamide comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C6 to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group,
  • Alkyl fructoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group,
  • Alkyl glucoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, and Alkyl alcohol alkoxylate of the formula Rio (ORn) mOH, in which Rio is a linear or branched Ob to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, Rn a C2 to C4, preferably a C2 alkyl group, and m 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 2 to 6.
  • one or more anionic surfactants are contained in the cosmetic agent, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of
  • linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms,
  • R9-0- (CH 2 -CH 2 0) n -S03X Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R9-0- (CH 2 -CH 2 0) n -S03X, in which R9 is preferably a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24, preferably 12 to 22, more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms, n for 0 or 1 to 12, more preferably 2 to 4 and X for an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion or for protonated
  • Triethanolamine or the ammonium ion Triethanolamine or the ammonium ion
  • Alkyl isethionate the alkyl group of which is selected from a branched or unbranched C6 to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate,
  • Alkylglycosidecarboxylic acids whose alkyl group is selected from a branched or
  • Alkyl sulfosuccinates the two alkyl groups of which are selected from the same or different, branched or unbranched C2 to C12, preferably C4 to C10, more preferably C6 to Cs alkyl groups,
  • Alkyl taurates the alkyl group of which is selected from a branched or unbranched C6 to C22, preferably C10 to Cie, more preferably C12 to Cie alkyl group,
  • Alkyl sarcosinates the alkyl group of which is selected from a branched or unbranched C6 to C22, preferably C10 to Cie, more preferably C12 to Cie alkyl group,
  • the counter ion of the anionic surfactant is an alkali or alkaline earth metal ion or a protonated triethanolamine or the ammonium ion.
  • anionic surfactants are straight-chain or branched alkyl ether sulfates which contain an alkyl radical with 8 to 18 and in particular with 10 to 16 C atoms and 1 to 6 and in particular 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units.
  • the surfactant mixture of anionic and amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants very particularly preferably contains sodium lauryl ether sulfate (INCI: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) and very particularly preferably sodium lauryl ether sulfate with 2 ethylene oxide units.
  • Amphoteric surfactants which are also referred to as zwitterionic surfactants, are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO - or -SO3 " group in the molecule.
  • Amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are also taken to mean those surface-active compounds, which, in addition to a Cs-C24-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SCbH group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • amphoteric surfactants in the cosmetic composition are selected from the group consisting of
  • Alkyl betaine comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to Cis, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group,
  • Alkyl amphodiacetate or alkyl amphodiacetate comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched C6 to C22, preferably C10 to Cis, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, with an alkali or alkaline earth metal counterion, and
  • Alkylamidopropylbetaine comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to C18, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group.
  • amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants include the surfactants known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate.
  • the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of
  • Alkyl glucamide comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to Cie, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group,
  • Alkyl fructoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to Cie, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group,
  • Alkyl glucoside comprising a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to Cie, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group,
  • Alkyl alcohol alkoxylate of the formula Rio (ORn) mOH in which R10 is a linear or branched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to Cie, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, Rn is a C2 to C 4 , preferably a C2 alkyl group, and m 1 to 10, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 2 to 6, and alkyl esters of the formula R12COOR13, in which R12 is a linear or branched Ce to C22, preferably C10 to Cis, more preferably C12 to C16 alkyl group, R13 is a Ci to C 4 , preferably a C2 alkyl group , represent.
  • the cosmetic agent contains two structurally different surfactants. It is particularly preferred that the
  • the cosmetic agent contains two structurally different surfactants, preferably the cosmetic agent contains two structurally different cationic surfactants, or the cosmetic agent contains a cationic surfactant and a nonionic surfactant.
  • the cosmetic composition can contain at least one natural or synthetic wax, which has a melting point of over 37 ° C., as a setting compound.
  • Solid paraffins or isoparaffins plant waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto grass wax, Japanese wax, cork wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes and animal waxes, such as bees waxes and other insect waxes, wool wax and shellac wax, can be used as natural or synthetic waxes Bürzelfett, further mineral waxes, such as ceresin and ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes, such as petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microwaxes made of polyethylene or polypropylene and
  • Polyethylene glycol waxes are used. It can be advantageous to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. Furthermore, chemically modified waxes, in particular hard waxes, for example montan ester waxes, Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes, can also be used.
  • the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C16-30 fatty acids such as, for example, hydrogenated triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate, are also suitable in cosmetic products.
  • hydrogenated triglyceride fats hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil
  • glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate are also suitable in cosmetic products.
  • the wax components can also be selected from the group of the esters from saturated, unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms and saturated, unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 22 to 44 carbon atoms, provided that the wax component or all of the wax components at room temperature are firm.
  • Silicone waxes for example stearyltrimethylsilane / stearyl alcohol, may also be advantageous.
  • Natural, chemically modified and synthetic waxes can be used alone or in combination. This means that several waxes can also be used. Furthermore, a number of wax mixtures, possibly mixed with other additives, are commercially available.
  • special wax 7686 OE a mixture of cetyl palmitate, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 ° C; manufacturer: Kahl &
  • Polywax® GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 ° C; manufacturer: Croda) and "Weichceresin® FL 400" (a
  • Vaseline / Vaseline oil / wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54 ° C; Manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralölgesellschaft) are examples of mixtures that can be used.
  • the wax is preferably selected from carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera) beeswax (INCI: Beeswax), petrolatum (INCI), microcrystalline wax and in particular mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred mixtures include the combination of carnauba wax (INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Cera), petrolatum and microcrystalline wax or the combination of beeswax (INCI: Beeswax) and petrolatum.
  • the wax or wax components should be solid at 25 ° C and should melt in the range of> 37 ° C.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material preferably contains the setting compound in a total amount of 0.5 to 50% by weight, preferably 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 30% by weight, even more preferably 2 to 25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • suitable ingredients include nonionic polymers, anionic polymers, waxes, protein hydrolyzates, amino acids, oligopetides, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors, betaines, bioquinones, purine (derivatives), plant extracts, silicones, ester oils, UV light protection filters,
  • Structuring agents thickeners, electrolytes, pH adjusting agents, swelling agents, dyes,
  • Antidandruff agents complexing agents, opacifiers, pearlescent agents, pigments, stabilizers, blowing agents, antioxidants, perfume oils and / or preservatives.
  • the preferably used organic silicon compounds are combined with the preferably used cationic polymers
  • the active ingredient combination of at least one organic silicon compound and the cationic polymer can already be contained in the agent for the treatment of a keratinous material.
  • the agent for treating a keratinous material is already in
  • the agent itself is preferably packaged with little or no water.
  • the at least one organic silicon compound is used for a maximum of 12 hours, preferably a maximum of 6 hours, more preferably a maximum of 3 hours, even more preferably a maximum of 1 hour before use of the agent for treating a keratinous material based on all the ingredients of the agent for treating a keratinous material Exception of the at least one organic silicon compound added.
  • the organic silicon compound and a further component b) become a cosmetic product only shortly before use, ie 1 minute to 12 hours, preferably 2 minutes up to 6 hours, particularly preferably 1 minute to 3 hours, particularly preferably 1 minute to 1 hour.
  • the AMEO or the bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine is added to an aqueous solution which is applied to the hair and in the second step an aqueous solution or a cosmetic agent which contains the further component b) is applied to the hair .
  • the user can stir or spill an agent (a) which contains the organic silicon compound (s) with an agent ( ⁇ ) which comprises the remaining ingredients of the agent for treating a keratinous material.
  • agent (a) which contains the organic silicon compound (s)
  • agent ( ⁇ ) which comprises the remaining ingredients of the agent for treating a keratinous material.
  • the user can now apply this mixture of (a) and (ß) to the keratinous materials - either directly after their production or after a short reaction time of 1 minute to 20 minutes.
  • the agent (ß) can contain water, in particular water in an amount> 30 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent for the treatment of keratinous materials.
  • Another object of the present application is the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the treatment of a keratinous material for the care of keratinous material and / or for the hydrophobization of the surface of keratinous material.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition de principes actifs pour le soin des cheveux humains. L'invention concerne en particulier un produit cosmétique destiné au traitement d'une matière kératinique, qui comprend a) au moins un composé de silicium organique et b) au moins polymère cationique, ledit produit cosmétique étant particulièrement approprié pour le soin des cheveux abîmés.
EP19797675.6A 2018-10-31 2019-10-31 Composition de principes actifs pour le soin et la modification des cheveux humains Pending EP3873421A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102018127278.2A DE102018127278A1 (de) 2018-10-31 2018-10-31 Wirkstoffzusammensetzung zur Pflege und Modifikation von Humanhaaren
PCT/EP2019/079774 WO2020089360A1 (fr) 2018-10-31 2019-10-31 Composition de principes actifs pour le soin et la modification des cheveux humains

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EP3873421A1 true EP3873421A1 (fr) 2021-09-08

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US (1) US20220008310A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3873421A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2022509430A (fr)
CN (1) CN112955122A (fr)
DE (1) DE102018127278A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2020089360A1 (fr)

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DE102018127185A1 (de) * 2018-10-31 2020-04-30 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Bis(triethoxysilylpropyl)amine in Kombination mit Polysacchariden zur Pflege und Formgebung keratinischer Fasern

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FR2891143B1 (fr) * 2005-09-23 2007-11-16 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un compose organique du silicium, et procede de mise en forme des cheveux
DE102009027679A1 (de) * 2009-07-14 2010-05-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Permanente Pflege keratinischer Fasern
FR2966352B1 (fr) * 2010-10-26 2016-03-25 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un alcoxysilane a chaine grasse et un polymere cationique
WO2012055805A1 (fr) * 2010-10-26 2012-05-03 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant un alcoxysilane à chaîne grasse et agent cosmétique siliceux
US10524999B2 (en) * 2015-12-14 2020-01-07 L'oreal Composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes and a fatty substance
US11642303B2 (en) * 2016-03-31 2023-05-09 L'oreal Hair care compositions comprising cationic compounds, starch, and silane compounds
FR3060381B1 (fr) * 2016-12-16 2019-05-31 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un organosilane, au moins un polymere cationique et une association particuliere de tensioactifs
WO2018131798A1 (fr) * 2017-01-11 2018-07-19 주식회사 엘지생활건강 Composition pour améliorer la résistance des protéines

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DE102018127278A1 (de) 2020-04-30
WO2020089360A1 (fr) 2020-05-07
CN112955122A (zh) 2021-06-11
JP2022509430A (ja) 2022-01-20

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