EP3863724A1

EP3863724A1 - Method for treating keratin materials using an acrylic anhydride polymer in oily dispersion and an amine compound

Info

Publication number: EP3863724A1
Application number: EP19786785.6A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Julien PORTAL; Simon TAUPIN
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2018-10-11
Filing date: 2019-10-11
Publication date: 2021-08-18
Also published as: JP2022502462A; FR3087124A1; CN112888484A; FR3087124B1; US20210401683A1; JP7387727B2; KR20210076938A; WO2020074720A1

Abstract

The present invention concerns a method for treating keratin materials, preferably human skin, in particular lips, preferably in at least two steps implementing, firstly, applying an oily dispersion (A) to the materials, comprising i) particles of copolymers of alkyl acrylates and acrylic anhydrides, ii) stabilising agents, iii) one or more hydrocarbon oils; then, secondly, applying a composition (B) to the materials comprising iv) one or more amine compounds, it being understood that the method of the invention uses v) one or more cosmetic active agents chosen from a) pigments, b) active skin care agents and c) UV filters and d) the mixtures thereof; the ingredients a) to d) being capable of being found in composition (A), and/or in composition (B), and/or in another composition (C). The method of the invention can be used to obtain a treatment for these keratin materials that is resistant, in particular, to sweat, shower gels, water and fatty substances, in particular edible vegetable or animal oils, and more particularly vegetable oils such as olive oil, sunflower oil, walnut oil, hazelnut oil, etc. The method for treating keratin materials of the present application is also suitable for skin and lip makeup, such as foundations and lipsticks.

Description

PROCESS FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATINIC MATERIALS USING AN ACRYLIC POLYMER OF ANHYDRIDE IN OIL DISPERSION AND A

AMINE COMPOUND

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratinous materials, preferably human skin, in particular the lips and preferably in at least two steps, firstly implementing the application to said materials of an oily dispersion A) comprising i) particles of copolymers of alkyl acrylates and acrylic anhydrides, ii) stabilizers, iii) one or more hydrocarbon oils; then, in a second step, the application to said materials of a composition (B) comprising iv) one or more amino compounds, it being understood that the process of the invention uses v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) ( s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, and c) UV filters as well as d) mixtures thereof; the ingredients a) to d) possibly being in composition (A), and / or in composition (B), and / or in another composition (C).

During the aging process, there appear various signs on the skin, very characteristic of this aging, resulting in particular in a modification of the structure and the cutaneous functions. The main clinical signs of skin aging include the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, which increase with age.

It is known to treat these signs of aging by using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active agents capable of fighting against aging, such as a-hydroxy acids, b-hydroxy acids and retinoids. These active ingredients act on wrinkles by removing dead skin cells and accelerating the cell renewal process. However, these active agents have the disadvantage of being effective for the treatment of wrinkles only after a certain time of application. However, we are increasingly seeking to obtain an immediate effect from the active ingredients used, quickly leading to a smoothing of fine lines and wrinkles and to the disappearance of signs of fatigue.

Cosmetic products often require the use of film-forming polymer to obtain a deposit of the product on keratin materials having good cosmetic properties. In particular, it is necessary that the film-forming deposit has good resistance, in particular that the deposit does not transfer during contact with the fingers, clothing, as well as good resistance to contact with water, especially rain. or during the shower or even perspiration as well as the fats of food in particular edible oils.

It is known to use dispersions of polymer particles of nanometric size, in organic media such as hydrocarbon oils. The polymers are in particular used as a film-forming agent in make-up products such as mascaras, eyeliners, eye shadows or lipsticks. Document EP-A-749747 describes in the examples dispersions in hydrocarbon oils (paraffin oil, isododecane) of acrylic polymers stabilized with polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) diblock copolymers. The film obtained after application of the dispersion to the skin is not very shiny. The document FR 1362795 also describes the use of dispersion of polymer particles stabilized on the surface and containing hydrocarbon oils for making up the lips and eyelashes. The document WO-A- 2010/046229 describes dispersions in isododecane of acrylic polymers stabilized by stabilizing polymers. In them prepared by radical polymerization controlled by reversible chain transfer. Document FR 1362795 describes the use of dispersion of surface stabilized polymer particles containing hydrocarbon oils for making up the lips and eyelashes. In addition, the shiny effect is not always satisfactory, especially on the lips.

Thus, the aim of the present invention is to provide a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face, which has good resistance to external aggressions, and in over time, from the action of the cosmetic active ingredient (s) such as the tightening, care and UV protection effect, but also good persistence of makeup, such as lip makeup.

The technical problem has been solved by the method of the invention which is a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

1) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A), preferably anhydrous, comprising:

i) one or more particle (s) consisting of one or more ethylenic copolymer (s):

a) of (Ci-C4) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl, preferably (meth) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl and

b) ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound, preferably maleic anhydride; and

ii) one or more stabilizing agents consisting of ethylenic polymers chosen from:

c) polymers of (C ₃ -C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (C ₃ -C 12) cycloalkyl; and

d) copolymers of (Ci-C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyle and (C1-C ₄ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl; and

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s); 2) the application to said materials of a composition (B), preferably anhydrous, comprising:

iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from:

e) polyamine compounds having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups, and

f) amino alkoxysilanes,

Being heard that :

the process employs the invention v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials preferably of the skin and c) UV filters as well as d) their mixtures the ingredients a) to d) which may be present in composition (A), and / or in composition (B), and / or in another composition (C); and

compositions (A), (B) and (C) can be applied together or separately.

More preferably, the process of the invention relates to a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

i) one or more particle (s) consisting of one or more ethylenic copolymer (s):

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s); followed by

2) the application to said materials of a composition (B), preferably anhydrous, comprising:

iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from:

f) amino alkoxysilanes,

it being understood that the process of the invention implements v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials, especially the skin and c ) UV filters as well as d) their mixtures, ingredients a) to d) which can be found in composition (A), and / or in composition (B), and / or in another composition (C). .

This process for treating keratinous materials in at least two successive stages using, in a first step, the oily dispersion (A) as defined above, then in a next step, a composition (B) comprising one or more amino compounds as defined above and optionally a composition (C), makes it possible to obtain a treatment of said keratin materials resistant in particular to sweat, shower gels, water and fatty substances, in particular vegetable edible oils or animal, and more particularly vegetable, such as olive oil, sunflower oil, walnut, hazelnut, etc.

The process for treating keratin materials of the present application is also suitable for making up the skin or the lips such as foundations, and lipsticks.

The present patent application also relates to a process, in particular cosmetic, for caring for or making up the skin or the lips, more particularly the skin of the face, in particular wrinkled skin, comprising topical application to the skin. or lips of the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, (A) and (B) and optionally (C), as described above.

The subject of the invention is also a process, in particular cosmetic, for caring for the skin, more particularly facial skin, in particular wrinkled skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, (A) , and (B) and possibly (C), as described above.

The process of the present patent application is in particular intended to smooth the human skin of the face and / or the body and / or to reduce or erase the signs of skin aging, in particular to reduce or erase wrinkles and / or fine lines skin.

A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use as a skin tightening agent, in particular wrinkled skin, compositions in particular cosmetic, (A), and (B) and optionally (C), such as previously described.

The term “tightening agent” is understood to mean compounds capable of having an apparent tightening effect, that is to say of smoothing the skin and reducing, or even eliminating, wrinkles and fine lines immediately.

The tightening effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test.

Within the meaning of the present invention, and unless a different indication is given:

An "alkyl radical" is a saturated C 1 -C 5 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, in particular in C1-C6 _, preferably in C1-C4 such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and t-butyl;

• an “alkylene radical” is a saturated hydrocarbon group divalent in Ci-Cs, linear or branched, in particular in C1-C6 _, preferably in Ci-C ₄ such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;

A “cycloalkyl” radical is a saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, the cycloalkyl radical possibly being substituted by one or more (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is an isobornyl group.

• a “cyclic” radical is a cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon group, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 1 ring, and comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms such as cyclohexyl or phenyl;

• an “aryl” radical is a hydrocarbon, aromatic unsaturated cyclic radical comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, mono or bicyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring and with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl;

• an “aryloxy” radical is an aryl-oxy radical, ie aryl-O- with aryl as defined above, preferably phenoxy;

• an “aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy” radical is an aryl- (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl-O- radical, preferably benzoxy;

The oily dispersion (A)

The process of the invention uses at least one oily dispersion (A) of i) particles of at least one polymer stabilized on the surface by ii) at least one stabilizing agent in a preferably anhydrous medium, further containing iii) at least one hydrocarbon oil.

In addition, the dispersions according to the invention consist of particles, generally spherical, of at least one surface stabilized polymer in a non-aqueous medium. i) Particles of polymers

The particle or particles of the dispersion of the process of the invention consists (are) of one or more ethylene copolymers of a) (Ci-C ₄ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl and b) of ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound. By “ethylenic copolymer” is meant a polymer resulting from the polymerization of two monomers: monomer a) (Ci-C4) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl and monomer b) of anhydride compound containing ethylenic unsaturation.

By “ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound” is meant a carboxylic acid anhydride compound comprising at least one ethylenic unsaturation - (R _a ) C = C (R _b ) -, -C (R _a ) = C (Rb) -R _c or> C = C (R _a ) -Rb, with R _a , Rb, and R _c , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, preferably hydrogen . In particular, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound is a cyclic compound, preferably having 5 or 6 members, and comprising an ethylenic unsaturation.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an acrylate copolymer:

a) of formula H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R 'with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, and R' representing a group ( Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl, linear or ramilfié, preferably linear in particular in (Ci-C3) alkyl, such as methyl or ethyl, preferably (meth) acrylate in Ci-C ₄ , linear or ramilfié, preferably linear, in particular in (Ci-C3) alkyl; and

b) an anhydride ethylenically unsaturated monomer

Particularly the polymer particles is a polymer of (meth) acrylate, alkyl-C ₄ linear or ramilfié linearly particularly preferably (Ci-C3) alkyl and monomer ethylenically unsaturated anhydride.

The monomers a) are preferably chosen from methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, n-propyl (meth) acrylate, isopropyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylate of n-butyl, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate.

Advantageously, a monomer of acrylate, alkyl-C ₄ linear or ramilfié linearly particularly preferably (Ci-C3) alkyl. Preferably a) is chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.

The polymer of the particles also comprises an anhydride ethylenically unsaturated monomer b).

Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound (s) b) of the invention are chosen from derivatives of maleic anhydride (Ib) and itaconic anhydride (Mb):

(lb) (Mb)

Formulas (lb) and (Mb) in which R _a , R _b and R _c , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4) alkyl group, preferably R _a , R _b , and R _c represent a hydrogen atom.

More preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (Ib) and even more preferably is maleic anhydride.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer or polymers of the particles i) comprise, or consist essentially of, from 80 to 99.99% by weight, of monomer a) and from 0.01 to 20% by weight of monomer b), relative to the total weight of the polymer.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer or copolymers of the particles i) of the dispersion (A) comprise, from 80 to 99.99% by weight, of the ingredient a) and from 0.01 to 20 % by weight of ingredient b), relative to the total weight of the copolymer (s) or particles. The preferred amount of a) is between 80 and 99.99% by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer (s) (or of the particle or particles), in particular between 85 and 98%, more preferably between 87 and 94 % by weight relative to the total weight of the copolymer (s).

The polymer of the particles can be chosen from:

methyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers;

ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers; and

methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers.

Advantageously, the polymer of the particles is a non-crosslinked polymer.

The polymer of the particles in the dispersion preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 10,000,000.

The polymer of the particles may be present in the dispersion in a content ranging from 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), in particular between 21% to 58.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), preferably ranging from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), more preferably ranging from 36% to 42% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A).

Preferably, the particle or particles consist of copolymer a) and b) which constitute the core of said particle.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the particles i) consist of copolymers a) and b) with a weight ratio a) / b) inclusive between 5.5 and 20, preferably between 6.5 and 16, even more preferably between 6.6 and 15.6.

ii) The stabilizing agent (s)

The dispersion (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more stabilizing agents ii). Preferably only one type of stabilizing agent ii) is used in the invention.

The stabilizing agent (s) of the invention is (are) constituted (s) of ethylenic polymers chosen from c) polymers of (C ₁ -C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (C 3 -C 12) cycloalkyl; and d) copolymers of (Ci-C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyle and (Ci-C4) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent ii) is (are) constituted (s) of ethylenic polymers chosen from

c) polymers of monomers of formula H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R ”with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a (C ₅ -C 10) cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl; and d) the copolymers of H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R 'and of H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R ”with R, R' and R ”as defined above.

Particularly the stabilizing agent ii) is an isobornyl (meth) acrylate polymer chosen from the homopolymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and the random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and of (meth) acrylate d C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl preferably present in a weight ratio (meth) isobornyl acrylate / (meth) acrylate C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl greater than 4; Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 4.5 to 19 .

For these random copolymers, the defined weight ratio makes it possible to obtain a stable polymer dispersion, in particular after storage for 7 days at room temperature. Advantageously, the stabilizing agent is chosen from:

isobornyl acrylate homopolymers,

random copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate, random copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate, and random copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate according to the weight report described above.

Advantageously, the combination ii) stabilizing agent (s) + i) polymer particle (s) present in the dispersion (A) comprises from 10 to 50% by weight of copolymers d) and from 50 to 90% by weight of polymers c), relative to the total weight of the whole ii) stabilizing agent (s) + i) particle (s) of polymer (s).

Preferably, the set ii) stabilizing agent (s) + ii) particle (s) of polymer (s) present in the dispersion comprises from 15 to 30% by weight of copolymers d) and from 70 to 85% by weight of polymers c), relative to the total weight of the whole ii) stabilizing agent (s) + i) particle (s) of polymer (s). iii) Hydrocarbon oil (s)

The dispersion (A) according to the invention comprises one or more identical or different, preferably identical, hydrocarbon oils.

By “oil” is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure.

“Hydrocarbon oil” means an oil formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine. It can contain hydroxy, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

Hydrocarbon oil can be volatile or non-volatile

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention the hydrocarbon-based oil or oils are volatile or are a mixture of different volatile oils more preferably chosen from isododecane and octyldodecanol.

According to another particular embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil or oils are a mixture of a volatile oil and a non-volatile oil.

By “volatile oil” is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ³ to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1,3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1,3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0, 01 to 10 mm Hg).

By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10 ⁶ m ² / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 atoms of silicon, and in particular of 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising, optionally, alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

As non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) may be mentioned; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy and / or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates and the pentaphenylated silicone oils

hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular:

- branched Cs-Cu alkanes such as Cs-Cu isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4,4,6,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and by for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Peutyls,

- linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14- 97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane mixture tridecane, the mixtures of n-undecane (C1 1) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of the application WO2008 / 155059 from the company Cognis, and their mixtures.

- short chain esters (having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate

- hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths from C ₄ to C24, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ^® , 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company Dynamit Nobel,

- synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane, paraffin oils, and their mixtures,

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula RIC (0) -0-R ₂ in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R ₂ is> 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoates of alcohols in Ci ₂ to C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

- fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2- undecylpentadecanol.

The dispersion (A) in addition to the hydrocarbon oil, can comprise a silicone oil. If silicone oil is in the dispersion (A), preferably it is in an amount which does not exceed 10% by weight relative to the weight of the dispersion (A), more particularly in an amount less than 5% and more preferably 2%. The term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The silicone oil can be volatile or non-volatile. According to a particular embodiment, the dispersion (A) comprises a hydrocarbon oil in a content ranging from 60 to 100% by weight of the total weight of the oils present in the composition and from 0 to 40% by weight of silicone oil. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains as oil only a hydrocarbon oil.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oil (s) of the invention are non-polar, i.e. formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

The hydrocarbon-based oil or oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular volatile, more particularly the non-polar oils, described above.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil (s) of the invention are isododecane.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon oil or oils are a mixture of non-volatile and volatile oil, preferably the mixture comprises isododecane as volatile oil. In particular in the mixture, the non-volatile oil is a phenylated silicone oil preferably chosen from pentaphenylated silicone oils.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions used in process (B), and (C) also comprise at least one oil as defined above, in particular a hydrocarbon oil.

The polymer particles of the dispersion preferably have a number-average size ranging from 5 and 500 nm, in particular ranging from 10 to 400 nm, and better still ranging from 20 to 300 nm.

Dispersion preparation method (A)

Without being limiting, in general, the dispersion according to the invention can be prepared in the following manner:

The polymerization is carried out in "dispersion", that is to say by precipitation of the polymer during formation, with protection of the particles formed with one or more stabilizing agents, preferably a stabilizing agent.

In a first step, the stabilizing polymer (or stabilizing agent ii)) is prepared by mixing the monomer or monomers constituting the stabilizing polymer c) or d), with vi) a radical initiator, in a solvent called synthetic solvent, and by polymerizing these monomers; In a second step, the monomers constituting the polymer of the particles i) are added to the stabilizing polymer formed in the previous step and the polymerization of these added monomers is carried out in the presence of the radical initiator.

When the nonaqueous medium is a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil iii), the polymerization can be carried out in an apolar organic solvent (synthesis solvent) then add the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (which must be miscible with said synthesis solvent) and distill selectively the synthesis solvent.

The cosmetic agent (s) preferably pigment (s) is (are) added during the first step. According to another variant, the cosmetic agent (s) preferably pigment (s) is (are) added during the second step or after the second step.

A synthetic solvent is therefore chosen such that the monomers of the stabilizing polymer, and the radical initiator, are soluble therein, and the polymer particles obtained are insoluble therein so that they precipitate there during their formation.

In particular, the synthetic solvent which is apolar organic, preferably chosen from alkanes such as heptane or cyclohexane, is chosen.

When the nonaqueous medium is a hydrocarbon oil iii) volatile, the polymerization can be carried out directly in said oil which therefore also plays the role of synthesis solvent. The monomers must also be soluble therein, as well as the radical initiator, and the polymer of the particles obtained must be insoluble therein.

The cosmetic agent (s) (v) preferably pigment (s) little (ven) t (s) during the first step. According to another variant, the dye (s) and / or pigment (s) is (are) added during the second step or after the second step.

When the nonaqueous medium is a hydrocarbon oil iii) volatile, the polymerization can be carried out directly in said oil which therefore also plays the role of synthesis solvent. The monomers must also be soluble therein, as well as the radical initiator, and the polymer of the particles obtained must be insoluble therein. The monomers are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, before polymerization, in an amount of 5% to 45% by weight. All of the monomers may be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or a portion of the monomers may be added as the polymerization reaction proceeds.

The polymerization is preferably carried out in the presence of vi) one or more radical initiators, in particular of the type:

peroxide in particular chosen from tert-Butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate: Trigonox 21 S; 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-di (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) hexane: Trigonox 141; tertbutyl peroxypivalate: Trigonox 25C75 from AkzoNobel; or

azo in particular chosen from AIBN: azobisisobutyronitrile; V50: 2,2’-azobis (2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride.

The polymerization is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 70 to 110 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The polymer particles i) are stabilized on the surface, when they form during the polymerization, thanks to the stabilizing agent ii).

Stabilization can be carried out by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the stabilizing agent ii), during the polymerization.

The stabilizing agent ii) is preferably also present in the mixture before polymerization of the monomers of the polymer of the particles i). However, it is also possible to add it continuously, in particular when the polymer monomers of the particles i) are also added continuously.

It is possible to use from 10 to 30% by weight of the stabilizing agent or agents relative to the total weight of monomers used (stabilizing agents ii) + polymer particles i)), and preferably from 15 to 25% by weight.

The dispersion of polymer particles (A) advantageously comprises from 30 to 65% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said dispersion, and preferably from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of polymers of particle i) + dispersing polymers ii) ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A), and preferably ranging from 2 to 30% in weight.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) according to the invention is an anhydrous composition. By “anhydrous” dispersion or composition is meant a dispersion or composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular water-free. Where appropriate, such small quantities of water can in particular be supplied by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual quantities.

According to another embodiment of the present patent application, the dispersion (A) is in reverse emulsion, ie of the water in oil (W / O) or "water in oil (W / O)" type. In this case, the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic. The inverse emulsions of (A) are preferably chosen in make-up and in particular in mascaras.

The composition (B)

Composition B of the process of the invention comprises one or more amino compounds iv). iv) The amino compound (s):

The amino compounds used in the process of the invention are chosen from:

e) polyamines having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups, and f) amino alkoxysilanes,

The amino compound (s) used in the process according to the invention is (are) especially chosen (s) from amino alkoxysilane compounds, diamine compounds, triamine compounds.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyamine compound (s) particularly comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the polyamine compound (s) compound (s) is (are) not polymer (s).

By “non-polymeric” compound (s) is meant one or more compound (s) which is or are not directly obtained by a polymerization reaction of monomers. As polyamine compounds, mention may in particular be made of N-methyl-1, 3-diaminopropane, N-propyl 1, 3-diaminopropane, N-isopropyl 1, 3-diaminopropane, N-cyclohexyl 1, 3-diaminopropane, 2- (3-aminopropylamino) ethanol, 3- (2- aminoethyl) aminopropylamine, bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, methyl bis (3- aminopropyl) amine, N- (3-aminopropyl) -1, 4 -diaminobutane, N, N-dimethyldipropylene, triamine, 1,2-bis (3-aminopropylamino) ethane, N, N'-bis (3-aminopropyl) -1, 3- propanediamine, ethylene diamine, 1,3-propylenediamine, 1,4-butylenediamine, lysine, cystamine, xylene diamine, tris (2-aminoethyl) amine, spermidine.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention the amino compound (s) iv) is (are) chosen from f) amino alkoxysilanes, such as those of formula (IVa):

R'i-Si (OR ' ₂ ) z (R' ₃ ): (IVa)

Formula (IVa) in which:

• R’i is a C1-C10 hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic, substituted by one or more groups chosen from the groups:

- primary NH2 or secondary N (H) R amine with R representing a (C1-C ₄ ) alkyl group,

- aryl or aryloxy substituted by an amino group, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylamino or by an aminoalkyl group in Ci-C ₄ and

- aldehyde -C (0) -H, carboxy -C (0) -0H, amide -C (0) -NH ₂ or urea -NH-C (0) -NH ₂ ; R'1 is optionally interrupted in its hydrocarbon chain by one or more heteroatoms (in particular O, S, NH), a carbonyl group (CO), or their association such as ester -C (0) -0-, or amide -C (0) -NH-, R'1 being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,

R ' ₂ and R' _3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

• z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3,

• and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x = 3.

Preferably, R’2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, R’2 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R’2 represents the ethyl group.

Preferably, R’3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, R’3 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R ′ ₃ represents the methyl or ethyl group.

Preferably R’1 is an acyclic chain.

Preferably R'1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain, substituted by an amine group NH2 or N (H) R with R representing a C1-C6 alkyl group, C3-C6 cycloalkyl or aromatic in Ce.

Preferably, R'1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2. More preferably, R'i is a saturated linear C2-C4 hydrocarbon chain substituted by an N H2 amine group.

Preferably, R’1 is a saturated linear C1-C6 hydrocarbon chain substituted by an amine group NH2,

R’2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,

R’3 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Preferably z is equal to 3.

Preferably, the amino alkoxysilane of formula (IVa) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane.

Preferably, the amino alkoxysilane (IVa) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane.

Preferably the amino alkoxysilane (IVa) is 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES).

Preferably, the amino compound (s) are chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), N-methyl-1, 3-diaminopropane, N-propyl 1, 3-diaminopropane, Nisopropyl1, 3-diaminopropane, N- cyclohexyl 1, 3-diaminopropane, 2- (3-aminopropylamino) ethanol, 3- (2-aminoethyl) aminopropylamine, bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, methyl bis (3-aminopropyl) amine, N- ( 3-aminopropyl) -1,4-diaminobutane, N, N-dimethyldipropylene triamine, 1,2-bis (3-aminopropylamino) ethane, N, N'-bis (3-aminopropyl) -1, 3-propanediamine , ethylenediamine, 1, 3-propylenediamine, 1, 4-butylenediamine, lysine.

Preferably, the amino compound is chosen from ethylenediamine, 1, 3-propylenediamine, 1, 4-butylenediamine, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).

More preferably, the amino compound is ethylenediamine or 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).

The amino compound (s) can also be chosen from e) polyamines having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups and in particular amino polymers, in particular having a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 500 to 1,000,000, preferably ranging from 500 to 500,000, and preferably ranging from 500 to 100,000.

As amino or polyamine polymers e) poly ((C2-Cs) alkylene imines) can be used, and in particular: polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, in particular poly (ethylene imine) (for example that sold under the reference 46,852-3 by the company Aldrich Chemical);

poly (allylamine), for example that sold under the reference 47,913-6 by the company Aldrich Chemical);

polyvinylamines and their copolymers, in particular with vinylamides; mention may in particular be made of vinylamine / vinylformamide copolymers such as those sold under the name LUPAMIN® 9030 by the company BASF; polyamino acids having NFh groups such as polylysine, for example that sold by the company JNC Corporation (formerly Chisso); amino dextran, such as that sold by the company CarboMer Inc;

polyvinyl amino alcohol such as that sold by the company CarboMer Inc, copolymers based on acrylamide propylamine;

chitosans; and

the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylsiloxanes, in particular the polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising amine groups at the chain end or on side chains, are particularly terminal or lateral amino (CiC ₆ ) alkyl groups such as aminopropyl, more particularly those of formula (IVb) or (IVc) or (IVd):

Formula (IVb) in which R ^a and R ^b , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl , aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl, R ^c and R ' ^c , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group, an amino group (C 1 -C ₄ ) alkyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylamino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl, preferably hydrogen atom or an amino group (CiC ₄ ) alkyl such as aminoethyl; X represents a covalent bond, an oxygen atom, preferably a covalent bond, ALK and ALK ', identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Cr C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylene such as propylene; n representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 55,000;

Preferably the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVb) are of formula (IV'b) or (IV ”b) below:

formula (IVb) in which the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 55,000. As examples of amino silicone (IVb) or (I V'b), mention may be made of those sold under the names "DIVISA1 1", "DMS-A12", "DMS-A15", "DMS-A21", "DMS-A31", "DMS-A32,"

DMS-A35 ”by the company GELEST;

Formula (IV ”b) with R ^c , R ' ^c , ALK, ALK', and n as defined above for (IVb). Preferably ALK and ALK 'are identical and represent a (Cr C ₄ ) alkylene group such as propylene R ^c and R' ^c are identical and represent an amino (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as aminoethyl

mention may be made of Dimethoxysilyl Ethylenediaminopropyl Dimethicone (RN: 71750-80-6), under the trade name GP-RA-157, marketed by Genesee Polymers.

Formula (IVc) in which R ^a , R ^b and R ^d , which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy group such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl, R ^d can also represent a (Ci-Ce) alkyl group substituted by a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylamino or amino group, R ^c represents a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci-C ₄₎ alkyl, preferably hydrogen; ALK represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylene such as propylene; n and m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values of m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 1000 and 55,000;

Preferably the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVc) are of formula (IV'c) below

Nli,

yt ί ^*

2

formula (IV'c), in which the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silcone is between 1000 and 55,000. Examples of silicone (IVc) that may be mentioned are those sold under the names "AMS-132", "AMS-152", "AMS-162", "AMS-163", "AMS-191", "AMS-1203" by the company GELEST;

Formula (IVd) in which R ^a and R ^b , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl , aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl,, and R ^d represents a (Ci-Ce) alkyl group optionally substituted by a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylamino or amino group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl, such as isobutyl, terbutyl or n-butyl, R ^c represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; ALK represents a (C 1 -C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylene such as propylene; n representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 5000;

Preferably the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVd) have the following formula (IV'd): H ₂ NCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -0- [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -0] n-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ C ₄ H ₉

(IV’d)

in the formula (IV'd), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 3000. As an example of silicone (IVd), mention may be made of those sold under the names “MCR -A1 1 "," MCR- A12 "by the company GELEST; the amodimethicones of formula (IVe):

Formula (IVe) in which

R ^a , and R ^b , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl,,

R ^c represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom;

R ^e represent a hydroxy group, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy, amino, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylamino,

R ^f , represents a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, a hydroxy group or -0- (SiR ₂ ) _x -R 'with R representing a group (Cr C ₄ ) alkyl or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy and R ′ representing a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy or hydroxy group, preferably R ^f represents a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group, (C1-C4) alkoxy, or -0- (SiR ₂ ) _x - R 'with R representing a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl and R' a hydroxy or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy group such as methoxy;

R ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-Ce) alkyl group

ALK and ALK ', identical or different, represent a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylene such as ethylene or propylene; n and m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2, p and x are integers greater than or equal to 0, preferably p is between 2 and 20 and more particularly the values of m, n, p and x are such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone is between 2000 and 700,000, preferably between 5000 and 500,000; Preferably the amodimethicones of formula (IVe) have the following formula (IV'e):

Formula (IV'e) in which ALK represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group preferably ethylene, ALK 'represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group preferably propylene, and m, n and p represent greater than 2 , with m and n and p are such that the weight-average molecular mass of the compound is between 5,000 and 500,000 approximately; preferably p represents an integer between 8 and 20; according to another preferred embodiment, the amodimethicones of formula (IVe) are chosen from that of formula

Formula (IV ”e) in which

R ^a , and R ^b , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, preferably (Cr C ₄ ) alkyl such that methyl,

R ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group;

R ^f , represents a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, or -0- (SiR ₂ ) _x -R 'with R representing a group (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl and R 'a hydroxy group or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy; R ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkyl group,

ALK represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably ethylene,

ALK ′ represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably propylene,

n and m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2, x is an integer greater than or equal to 0, preferably the values of m, n, and x are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is included between 2000 and 700,000, preferably between 5,000 and 500,000;

Even more particularly (IV ”e) represents:

With R ^f , R ⁹ , ALK, ALK ', m, n as defined for (IV ”e). The amodimethicone and trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone belonging to the formula (IV ”e) and the above formula, are for example the amodimethicone and trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone of ADM type sold by the company Wacker-Belsil®, one can also mention the POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE A GROUPS

AMINOETHYLAMINOPROPYL, WITH METHOXY AND / OR HYDROXY FUNCTION AND ALPHA-OMEGA SILANOLS IN 60% CATION AQ EMULSION (Supplier reference: XIAMETER MEM-8299 EMULSION for DOW CORNING or Supplier reference: BELSIL ADM 4000 E for WACKER);

POLY DI METHYLSI LOXAN E WITH AMINOETHYL IMINOPROPYL GROUPING IN NON-IONIC MICROEMULSION AT 15% PRESERVED (Supplier reference: BELSIL ADM LOG 1);

Polyether amines in particular known under the reference JEFFAMINE from the company HUNSTMAN; and in particular polyethylene glycol and / or polypropylene glycol a, w-diamine (with amine function at the end of the chain) such as those sold under the names JEFFAMINE D-230, D-400, D-2000, D- 4000, ED-600, ED -9000, ED-2003.

The polytetrahydrofuran (or polytetramethylene glycol) a, w-diamine, the polybutadienes a, w-diamine;

Polyamidoamine dendrimers (PANAM) with terminal amine functions;

Poly (meth) acrylates or poly (meth) acrylamides carrying primary or secondary lateral amine functions such as poly (3-aminopropyl) methacrylamide, poly (2-aminoethyl) methacrylate. As polyamine compounds having several primary amine groups and / or secondary amine polymer amine e), use is preferably made of polydi (C 1 -C 4) alkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end or on side chains.

Advantageously, the polyamine compounds e) used in the process according to the invention are chosen from polydi (Ci-C4) alkylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the chain end and / or on side chains.

More preferably, the amino compound (s) (iv) included in composition (B) of the process of the invention is (are) chosen (s) from those of formulas (IVb) and (IVe) as defined previously and even more preferably (IV'b) and (IV'e) as defined above.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) also comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils iii) as defined above. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oils contained in the dispersion (A) and the composition (B) are identical.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon oil (s) of composition (B) are chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular the non-polar oils, described above. Even more preferably, the hydrocarbon oil or oils of composition (B) are isododecane. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) is aqueous or hydroalcoholic. By alcoholic is meant a mixture of water and alkanol in C2-C4, linear or branched, preferably ethanol.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) is aqueous or hydroalcoholic and preferably also comprises one or more chitosans and / or one or more poly amino acids, preferably polylysines.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) is aqueous and comprises one or more alkoxysilane f) as defined above in emulsion in water, in particular of the oil in water (W / O) or "water in" type. oil (W / O) ".

According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) is aqueous and comprises one or more polyamines e) as defined above in emulsion of oil in water type (O / W) or “oil in water (O / W) ) ”.

Advantageously, the amino compound (s) used in the process according to the invention are used according to an amino group molar ratio of the amino compound iv) / of anhydride compound containing ethylenic unsaturation anhydride b) as defined above ranging from 0.01 to 10, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 2, and more preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1.

The process in at least two stages of the invention makes it possible to obtain deposits of cosmetic agents and in particular of pigments having good resistance to external aggressions that keratin materials can undergo, in particular good resistance to water and soap, shower gel, and edible oils.

In addition, the process of the invention makes it possible to trap non-volatile compounds, in particular oils, for example to improve the cosmeticity, or to add shine to keratin materials, preferably the skin, in particular the skin of the face such as the lips and this retentively vis-à-vis external aggressions.

As non-volatile oils, there may be mentioned: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or even sunflower, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame oils, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlam; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisoketyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentylglycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), volatile or not, linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenylmethyldimethyl-trisilanes diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures.

These oils can be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 60%, and better still from 0.1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A). The dispersion (A) and the compositions (B) and (C) according to the invention may also comprise one or more coloring matters chosen from liposoluble dyes, and pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, pearlescent agents and very fine flakes. known to those skilled in the art. The coloring matters can be present, in the composition, in a content ranging from 0% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the dispersion or composition which comprises them, preferably from 0% to 10% by weight.

The dispersion (A) and the compositions (B) and (C) according to the invention can also comprise one or more fillers, in particular in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the dispersion or composition comprising them. v) the cosmetic active ingredient (s)

The cosmetic active ingredient (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from a) pigments, b) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials preferably of the skin and c) UV filters as well d) their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present patent application, the cosmetic active agent (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from a) pigments.

According to a particular embodiment of the present patent application, the cosmetic active ingredient (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from (b) the active ingredients for care of keratin materials, preferably active ingredients for care skin.

According to yet another particular embodiment of the present patent application, the cosmetic active agent (s) of the invention is (are) chosen from (c) UV filters.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) and / or the composition (B) and / or the composition (C) of the invention comprise v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, preferably one or more pigment (s).

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, preferably one or more pigment (s).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (C) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents, preferably one or more pigment (s). The hair dye (s) represent more particularly from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition which comprises them, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), in particular one or more pigment (s).

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), in particular one or more pigment (s).

According to yet another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition (C) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), in particular one or more pigment (s).

By "pigment" is meant all pigments providing color to keratin materials, of synthetic or natural origin. The solubility of the pigments in water at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.

These are solid, white or colored particles which are naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic liquid phases usually used in cosmetics or made insoluble by formulation in the form of a lacquer, where appropriate. More particularly pigments which are poorly or not very soluble in hydroalcoholic media.

The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from the organic and / or mineral pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the encyclopedia of chemical technology of Kirk-Othmer and in the encyclopedia of industrial chemistry of Ullmann. Mention may in particular be made, as pigments, of organic and inorganic pigments such as those defined and described in Ullmann's Encvclopedia of Industrial Chemistry "Pigment organics", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002 / 14356007. a20 371 and ibid, "Pigments, Inorganic, 1. General” 2009 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim10.1002 / 14356007.a20_243.pub3 These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. be coated or uncoated.

The pigments can for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lacquers, pigments with special effects such as nacres or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

The pigment can be a mineral pigment. By mineral pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide. The pigment may be an organic pigment. By organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

In particular, the white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108, 47000, 47005 , the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1725, 15510, 45370, 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives such as are described in patent FR 2,679,771.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, as pigment (s), pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:

- YELLOW COSMENYL IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 1 1710);

- YELLOW COSMENYL G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 1 1680);

- ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71 105);

- ROUGE COSMENYL R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);

- CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);

- VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);

- BLUE COSMENYL A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);

- GREEN COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);

- BLACK COSMENYL R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).

The pigments according to the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising:

- an inorganic nucleus,

- at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core, and

- at least one organic pigment covering the core at least partially.

By “lacquer” is meant the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium borosilicate and sodium or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine.

Examples of lacquers that may be mentioned include the products known by the following names: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410 ), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850: 1), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 ( Cl 42,090).

Examples of lacquers that may be mentioned include the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850: 1).

The pigment (s) can also be pigments with special effects.

By "special effect pigments" is meant the pigments which generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is non-uniform and changeable according to the conditions of observation (light , temperature, observation angles ...). They are therefore opposed to colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent classic shade.

There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index such as nacres or glitter.

As examples of pigments with special effects, there may be mentioned pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, in particular of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.

The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

By way of illustration of the nacres which can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the gold-colored nacres in particular sold by ENGELHARD under the name Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona), by the company Eckart under the name Prestige Bronze and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne ); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-colored mother-of-pearl in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); copper-reflective nacres sold in particular by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica) and by Eckart under the name Prestige Copper; mother-of-pearl with a red reflection, in particular sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-reflective nacres sold in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-tinted pearls with a gold reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with gold reflection in particular marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), Dark Blue (1 17324 ) (Colorona), the white pearls with a silver reflection in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish golden pinkish nacres in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

In addition to nacres on a mica support, one can consider multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium borosilicate and sodium or calcium borosilicate and aluminum, and aluminum.

Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometry Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether they are substances which fluoresce in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by Quantum Dots Corporation.

The variety of pigments which can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as specific optical effects such as metallic, interference effects.

The size of the pigment used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 pm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 pm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 pm. The pigments can be dispersed in the product thanks to a dispersing agent.

By “dispersing agent” is meant a compound which makes it possible to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, carrying one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can cling physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersing agents also have at least one functional group which is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. Said agent can be charged, it can be anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or neutral.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agents used are chosen from the esters of 12-hydroxy stearic acid more particularly and of Cs to C20 fatty acid and of polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic) acid stearate with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g / mole such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, 2-polygyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate (name CTFA) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or else polyhydroxystearic acid such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.

As another dispersant which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17,000 sold by the company Avecia, mixtures of poly dimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

The pigments used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be surface treated with an organic agent.

Thus, the pigments previously treated on the surface which are useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechanical-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition according to the invention. These organic agents can, for example, be chosen from amino acids; waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, for example chitosan, cellulose and its derivatives; polyethylene; (meth) acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; the proteins ; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes, alkylsilanes, siloxy-silicates; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and / or have undergone several surface treatments.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in the trade.

Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered with an organic layer. The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

The surface treatment can thus be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or the fillers. This method is described in particular in US Patent 4,578,266.

Preferably, an organic agent linked to the pigments will be used covalently. The agent for the surface treatment may represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigments, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight. weight.

Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:

PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;

a Chitosan treatment such as the CTS surface treatment marketed by LCW;

Triethoxycaprylylsilane treatment such as the AS surface treatment marketed by LCW;

a methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW a dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;

a dimethicone / T rimethylsiloxysilicate treatment, such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment sold by LCW;

a Lauroyl Lysine treatment such as the LL surface treatment marketed by LCW; Lauroyl Lysine Dimethicone treatment such as the LL / SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;

a magnesium myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW;

an aluminum dimyristate treatment such as the Ml surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW;

an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

a Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment such as the NAI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

a Dimethicone / Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment such as the SA / NAI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

a Perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;

an acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment, such as the FSA surface treatment sold by Daito;

a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / Perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;

a Lauryl Lysine / Aluminum Tristearate treatment such as the LL-StAI surface treatment marketed by Daito;

an Octyltriethylsilane treatment such as the OTS surface treatment marketed by Daito;

an Octyltriethylsilane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FOTS surface treatment marketed by Daito;

an Acrylate / Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito;

an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment, such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;

a Microcrystalline Cellulose and Carboxymethyl Cellulose treatment such as the AC surface treatment marketed by Daito;

a Cellulose treatment such as the C2 surface treatment marketed by Daito an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;

Perfluoroalkyl phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF + ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito

The composition in accordance with the present invention may also comprise one or more pigments which are not surface treated. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigment (s) are mineral pigments.

According to another particular mode of the invention, the pigment or pigments are chosen from pearlescent agents.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic pigments in the dispersion (A), and / or the composition (B), and / or (C) or inorganic in the form particle size of submicron size.

By “sub-micronic” or in English “sub-micronic” is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by the micronization method and whose average particle size is less than a micronmeter (mGh), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 mhh, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 mhh

According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment (s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) of between 0.5: 1 and 2: 1, particularly between 0.75: 1 and 1.5: 1 or better between 0.8: 1 and 1, 2: 1.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent is suitable for dispersing the pigments and is compatible with a formulation curable by condensation.

By “compatible” is meant, for example, that said dispersing agent is miscible in the oily phase of the composition or of the dispersion containing the pigment (s), it does not delay, or does not reduce the hardening. The dispersing agent is preferably cationic.

The dispersing agent (s) can therefore have a silicone skeleton, such as silicone polyether and amino-silicone type dispersants. Among the suitable dispersing agents, mention may be made of:

amino-silicones ie silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP -967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,

silicone acrylates such as Tego ^® RC 902, TEGO RC 922 ^®, TEGO ^® RC 1041 and RC 1043 Tego ^®, marketed by Evonik,

polydimethylsiloxane silicones (PDMS) with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP- 502, GP-504, GP-514, GP -607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ^® RC 1401, Tego ^® RC 1403, Tego ^® RC 1412, by Evonik.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersing agent or agents are of the amino-silicone type and are positively charged. Mention may also be made of dispersing agents having chemical groups capable of reacting with the reagents of the oily phase and thus are capable of improving the 3D network formed from amino-silicone. For example, dispersing agents for silicone epoxy pigments can chemically react with the amino group or groups amino-silicone prepolymer to increase the cohesion of the amino-silicone film comprising the pigment (s).

Preferably the pigment (s) v) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular black, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and purple, such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7, alkali metal salt of lithol red, such as calcium salt of lithol red B.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the amount of pigments varies from 0.5% to 40%, and preferably from 1 to 20% relative to the weight of the composition and dispersion comprising them. vi) plasticizer (s)

According to a particular embodiment, the method uses one or more plasticizers. The said plasticizer (s) possibly being in the composition (A), and / or (B) and / or (C).

By “plasticizer” or “plasticizing agent” is meant an organic chemical compound, which is in the solid state or in the liquid state, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, and which is added to a composition comprising different types of 'polymerizable ingredients (monomers), to make the polymer softer, more flexible, and / or improve its mechanical strength. Plasticizers are known to those skilled in the art, for example, “Plasticizers”, Encyclopedia of polymer Science and Technology, Helmut Reinecke, Rodrigo Navarro, Monica Pérez, https: //doi.orq/10.1002/0471440264.pst245. pub215 September 201 1.

The plasticizing agents within the meaning of the invention have a molecular weight of between 200 and 1000 g / mol, particularly between 300 and 700, preferably between 350 and 600. The agents are also organic compounds consisting of carbon atoms , hydrogen, and one or more heteroatoms chosen from the oxygen, sulfur and silicon atom, in particular chosen from the oxygen and silicon atom, preferably at least 3 heteroatoms even more preferably between 4 and 10 heteroatoms, and which may have one or more aryl groups such as benzyl. In particular, they comprise one or more groups chosen from esters, phthalate, benzoate, sulfonate, citrates, and siloxanes. Preferably, the plasticizer (s) of the invention are chosen from those of the families of phthalates, esters, citrates, benzoates, citrates and siloxanes.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer (s) are chosen from the compounds (V) and (VI) below:

R ^h -0-C (0) -L- [C (0) - _: J¾] n _(V)

Formula (V) in which:

- R ^h , and R ¹ , identical or different, represent a (Ci-C2o) alkyl, aryl group such as phenyl, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as n -butyle;

- n is 1, 2 or 3, preferably 2; and

- L represents a group a) C1-C10 alkyl, di, tri or tetravalent, preferably (C2-Cs) trivalent alkyl, said alkyl di, tri or tetravalent, possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, b) cycloalkyl di, or trivalent, or c) aryl di, tri or tetravalent, preferably phenyl di, or trivalent, preferably L represents a group a);

Formula (VI) in which:

- R ^j , identical or different, preferably identical, represents a (Ci-Cio) alkyl, aryl group such as phenyl, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, preferably aryl such as phenyl,

- R ^j, identical or different, preferably identical, represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxy group, (Ci-C ₆ ) alkyl, or (Ci-C ₆ ) alkoxy,

- L 'represents a group chosen from a) divalent C2-C10 alkyl, preferably (C ₄ - Cs) divalent alkyl, which can be optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, and / or interrupted by one or more d atoms 'oxygen, and / or interrupted by one or more divalent groups - Si (R ^j ) (R ^k ) - with R ^j and R ^k as defined above, b) cycloalkyl di, or trivalent, c) aryl di, tri or tetravalent, and d) -Si (R ^j ) (R ^k ) -, preferably L 'represents a group d) -Si (R ^j ) (R ^k ) -.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (V) are chosen from the compounds of formula (V ’):

R ^h -GC (0) -L- [C (0) -QR, l · _{L /> ¾}

Formula (V) in which:

- R ^h , and R ¹ , identical or different, represent a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkyl, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as benzyl, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as n-butyl;

- n is 1, or 2, preferably 2; and - L represents a group a) C2-C6 alkyl, di, tri or tetravalent, preferably (C2-C ₈ ) trivalent alkyl, said alkyl possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, preferably substituted by a hydroxy group .

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (VI) are chosen from the compounds of formula (VI ’):

Formula (VI ’) in which:

- R ^j , identical or different, preferably identical, represents an aryl group such as phenyl, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, preferably aryl such as phenyl, and

- R ^j identical or different, preferably identical, represents a group represents (Cr C ₆ ) alkyl, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl.

Particularly the plasticizer (s) of the invention are chosen from: din-hexyl phthalate (DnHP), diisoheptyl phthalate, (DIHP), diheptyl phthalate (DnHP), di (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), diheptylnonyl phthalate (DnHNP), din-octyldecylphthalate (DNODP), diheptylnonylundecylphthalate (DnHNUP), diisononyl phthalate (DINP), dinonyl phthalate (DNP), din-nonyl phthalate (DnNP) diisodecyl phthalate (DIDNyl) phthalate (DnNUP), diundecyl phthalate (DUP), diisoundecyldodecylphthalate (UDP), ditridecyl phthalate (DTDP), di (2- ethylhexyl) teraphthalate (DOTP), butylbenzyl phthalate (BBP), diheptylnonyl adipate (DAN) ) adipate (DEHA), diisononyl adipate (DINA), diisodecyl adipate (DIDA), triheptylnonyl trimellitate (TnHNTM), tri (2-ethylhexyl) trimellitate (TOTM), triisononyl trimellitate (TINTM), di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate ), di (2-ethylhexyl) azelate (DOZ), tributyl citrate and trimethylpentaphenyltrisilox don, preferably the plasticizer or plasticizers of the invention are chosen from: tri (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylcitrates such as tributyl citrate and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane.

The plasticizer (s) vi) of the invention may be present in composition (A), and / or in composition (B), and / or in another composition (C). Preferably the plasticizer (s) of the invention are present in the composition (A) or (C) preferably (A). According to one embodiment of the particular invention of the invention, the plasticizer (s) is in an amount between 5 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer (s) a) to d) of the particles.

According to an embodiment of the particular invention of the invention, the plasticizer (s) is in an amount between 0.5 and 30% by weight, in particular between 1 and 20%, preferably from 1.5 to 10 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), and / or in the composition (B), and / or in another composition (C), preferably relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

The process of the invention: According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method is a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

i) one or more particle (s) consisting of one or more ethylenic copolymer (s):

e) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s);

f) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from:

g) polyamine compounds having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups, and

h) amino alkoxysilanes,

Being heard that :

the process of the invention uses v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials, preferably from the skin and c) UV filters as well as d) their mixtures the ingredients a) to d) which is in another composition (C); and

the composition (A) is applied to the said materials, then the composition (B) is applied to the said materials and then the composition (C) is applied to the said materials.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the method is a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, using the compositions (A) , (B) and (C) in which:

the process of the invention uses v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials preferably from the skin and c) UV filters as well as d) their mixtures the ingredients a) to d) - preferably a) - which is in composition (C); and

composition (C) is applied to said materials, then composition (A) is applied to said materials and then composition (B) to be applied to said materials.

According to yet another embodiment of the invention, the method is a method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, using the compositions (A) , (B) and (C) in which in which:

the process of the invention implemented v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials, preferably from the skin and c) filters UV as well as d) their mixtures the ingredients a) to d) - preferably a) - which is in composition (C); and

composition (C) is applied to said materials, then composition (A) and (B) are applied simultaneously to said materials or else a mixture of composition (A) + (B) is applied to said materials after the application of composition (C) on said materials.

According to an advantageous variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

1) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) comprising:

i) one or more particle (s) consisting of one or more ethylene copolymer (s) a) and b) as defined above; and

ii) one or more stabilizing agents consisting of ethylene polymers chosen from c) and d) as defined above;

iii) one or more hydrocarbon-based oil (s) as defined above and v) one or more cosmetic agent (s), preferably pigment (s);

followed by

2) the application to said materials of a composition (B), comprising:

iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from e) and f) as defined above.

According to another advantageous variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face, such as the lips, comprising:

1) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) comprising: i) one or more particle (s) consisting of one or more ethylene copolymer (s) a) and b) as defined above; and

ii) one or more stabilizing agents consisting of ethylene polymers chosen from c) and d) as defined above; and

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s) as defined above;

followed by

2) the application to said materials of a composition (B) comprising:

iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from e) and f) as defined above; and

v) one or more cosmetic agent (s), preferably pigment (s).

According to yet another variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

1) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) comprising:

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s) as defined above;

followed by

2) the application to said materials of a composition (B), comprising:

iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from e) and f) as defined above;

followed by

3) the application to said materials of a composition (C) comprising:

v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), preferably pigment (s).

According to yet another advantageous variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

1) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) comprising:

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s) as defined above;

followed by 2) applying to said materials a composition (C) comprising v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), preferably pigment (s); followed by

3) the application to said materials of a composition (B) comprising iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from e) and f) as defined above.

According to a particularly preferred variant of the invention, the process of the invention is a process for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

1) the application to said materials of a composition (C) comprising v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), preferably pigment (s); followed by

2) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) comprising:

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s) as defined above;

followed by

According to another particular variant of the invention the cosmetic agent (s) v) as defined above, in particular the pigments are found in a composition (C). The latter can be applied simultaneously with composition (A), or with composition (B). Preferably the composition (C) is applied after step 1) ie after the application of the composition (A), more preferably the compositions (A) and (B) do not comprise hair dye and it is applied after the step 1) of the process of the invention a composition (C) comprising one or more hair dyes v) as defined above, followed by application to the keratin materials of the composition (B).

The dispersion of the invention, the dispersion (A), and the compositions (B) and (C) are cosmetic, i.e. they only contain cosmetically acceptable ingredients.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A), and the compositions (B) and (C) are anhydrous.

According to another advantageous embodiment, the dispersion (A) and the composition (B) are anhydrous, and the composition (C) is aqueous. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (B) is aqueous or hydroalcoholic.

According to another particularly advantageous mode of the invention, the composition (C) is aqueous or hydroalcoholic.

According to yet another advantageous embodiment, the dispersion (A) is anhydrous and the composition (B) and the composition (C) are aqueous or hydroalcoholic, preferably aqueous.

The compositions (B) and (C) and dispersion (A) according to the invention can comprise a cosmetic additive chosen from water, perfumes, preservatives, fillers, oils, waxes, surfactants, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents, polymers, thickeners, coloring matters.

The compositions (B) and (C) and dispersion (A) according to the invention can also comprise other coloring matters such as liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes. This coloring material may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight.

The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, b-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 1 1, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5 , quinoline yellow, annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

According to one embodiment, the dispersion (A) and the compositions (B) and (C) according to the invention are anhydrous compositions.

Preferably, the first step of the process of the invention is the application of the dispersion (A) in one or more volatile non-polar solvents, in particular isododecane.

According to another variant, step 2) follows step 1) without intermediate rinsing or drying. Preferably after application of the dispersion (A) during step 1) one waits between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 10 minutes and 5 hours, more particularly between 30 minutes and 4 hours, preferably around 3 hours , to apply the composition (B).

If the first step is the step of applying the composition (C) followed by the application of the oily dispersion (A) and then of the application of the composition (A) between the application of the composition (C) (step 1) and the step of applying the dispersion (A) (step 2) the keratin materials are preferably air-dried. If the first step is the step of applying the oily dispersion (A) and the second step is that of applying the composition (C) and the third step is that of applying the composition (B) between the application of the composition (C) as defined above (step 2) and the step of applying the composition (B) (step 3) the keratin materials are preferably air-dried.

If the first step is the application of the oily dispersion (A) then the application of the composition (B) then the application of the composition (C) between G application of the composition (C) (step 3) and l step of applying the composition (B) (step 2) the keratin materials are preferably air dried.

The kit

The subject of the invention is also a kit or device with several separate compartments comprising:

• in a first compartment: the dispersion (A) as defined above,

• in a second separate compartment: composition (B) as defined above, and

• possibly in a third compartment separate from the other two: composition (C) as defined above.

The packaging assembly for the compositions is, in a known manner, any packaging suitable for storing cosmetic compositions (bottles, tube, spray bottle, aerosol bottle in particular).

The subject of the invention is also the oily dispersion (A) as defined above comprising v) the cosmetic agent (s) as defined above, it being understood that when v) represents one or more several pigment (s) then the dispersion is anhydrous and does not include any polyamine compound having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups and does not include amino alkoxysilanes.

The invention also relates to the oily dispersion (A) which is found in an inverse emulsion (W / O) as defined above.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. EXAMPLES

Example 1:

The oily dispersions (A) are formed as a whole [particles i) + stabilizing agent ii)] at:

70% by weight of a) of (Ci-C4) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl (such as Ethyl Acrylate),

10% by weight of b) ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound (such as maleic anhydride), and

- 20% by weight of c) polymers of (C ₁ -C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate monomers of (C ₃ -

Ci2) cycloalkyl (such as Isobornyl Acrylate).

The preparation of these oily dispersions was carried out in a 1 liter controlled reactor. The synthesis is carried out in two stages:

During a first step, the Isobornyl Acrylate is allowed to polymerize in Isododecane / Ethyl Acetate (60/40) in the presence of a small amount of Ethyl Acrylate and of a radical initiator (T21 S). As a first step, the Isobornyl Acrylate / Ethyl Acrylate mass ratio is 92/8.

In the second step, the remainder of the Acrylate and Maleic Anhydride are poured in the presence of Isododecane / Ethyl Acetate (60/40) and of the radical initiator Trigonox 21 S (T21 S).

After stripping, the polymer is in a dry extract of 52% in Isododecane. The ratios used to obtain the stabilizing agent and the particulate core are summarized in the table below:

Quantity of reagents: Step 1 :

Isododecane added between the two stages:

2nd step :

Experimental protocol: Isododecane / Ethyl acetate (60/40), Isobornyl Acrylate, Ethyl Acrylate and T21S are introduced into a reactor at the bottom of the vessel. The medium is heated to 90 ° C., under argon and with stirring. The dry extract during this first stage is 35.9%.

After 2 h of heating, the NMR indicates a consumption of 97% of Isobornyl Acrylate (Consumption of Ethyl Acrylate: 97%).

After 2 h of reaction, Isododecane / Ethyl acetate (60/40) is introduced into the bottom of the vessel. The mixture is heated to 90 ° C. in the medium. Once the medium at 90 ° C., Acrylate / Maleic Anhydride, Isododecane / Ethyl Acetate (60/40) and T21 S are introduced over 2 hours by pouring. the flow the medium is milky. The dry extract is 40%.

After 7 h of synthesis, traces of the starting monomers remain.

A 1 L stripping of Isododecane and ethyl acetate is then carried out (the NMR indicates that there are no more monomers and the ethyl acetate is completely removed from the dispersion). The dry extract is about 52%.

Example 2:

The association of particles i) + stabilizing agent ii) was prepared as follows:

75% by weight of a) of (Ci-C4) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl (such as Ethyl Acrylate),

5% by weight of b) ethylenically unsaturated anhydride compound (such as maleic anhydride), and

Ci2) cycloalkyl (such as Isobornyl Acrylate).

The synthesis was carried out in a 1 liter piloted reactor in two stages:

In the second step, the rest of the Acrylate and Maleic Anhydride are poured in the presence of Isododecane / Ethyl Acetate (60/40) and of radical initiator (T21 S).

After stripping, the polymer is in a dry extract of 49% in Isododecane.

The ratios used to obtain the stabilizing agent and the particulate core are summarized in the table below:

Quantity of reagents: step 1:

sododecane added between the two stages: step 2:

Experimental protocol :

Isododecane / Ethyl acetate (60/40), Isobornyl Acrylate, Ethyl Acrylate and T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the vessel. The medium is heated to 90 ° C (Instructions on the medium), under argon and with stirring. The dry extract during this first stage is 35.9%.

After 2 h of heating, the NMR indicates a consumption of 98% of Isobornyl Acrylate (Consumption of Ethyl Acrylate: 97%). After 2 h of reaction, Isododecane / Ethyl acetate (60/40) is introduced into the bottom of the vessel. The mixture is heated to 90 ° C. in the medium. Once the medium at 90 ° C., Acrylate / Maleic Anhydride, Isododecane / Ethyl Acetate (60/40) and T21 S are introduced over 2 hours by pouring. the flow the medium is milky. The dry extract is 40%.

After 7 hours of synthesis, traces of the starting monomers remain.

A 1 L stripping of Isododecane and ethyl acetate is then carried out (the NMR indicates that there are no more monomers and the ethyl acetate is completely removed from the dispersion). The dry extract is about 49%.

Amino compounds used:

The reaction of these amino compounds on the anhydride functions of the copolymer makes it possible to trap non-volatile oils and nevertheless obtain non-transfer deposits, non-sticky, resistant to edible oils, shiny and comfortable.

Application process on keratin materials:

Firstly, a formulation containing an oily dispersion of particles (A) was produced (examples 1 and 2). Evaluations are carried out on Bioskin or on a contrast card.

In this case, the reference of the contrast card is: BYK Company - Product: Black scrub panels P121 -10N, category number: 5015 - dimension 165 ^* 432mm. The formulations were then applied on a vitro support of the byko-charts, black scrub panels type from the company Byk and left dried for 24 hours:

Firstly, a film of each formulation is deposited on a Bioskin sample using a film puller. The Bioskin sample presents as approximate dimensions: (L: 10 cm; I: 6 cm; e: 2.5 mm). The thickness of the wet deposit is 50pm. The films are dried for 24 hours at room temperature. The dry mass of formulation deposited on the Bioskin oscillates between 60 and 100 mg. Once the films are dry, the tests can be carried out

After 24 hours of drying, formulation (B) containing an amino compound (compound 1 or 2) was applied.

After 24 hours of drying, deposits are assessed: Deposit 0.5 ml of olive oil or water for 5 minutes on the deposit. After 5 minutes of contact, a cotton pad is passed 15 times and an observation of the degradation of the deposit is made ^* .

Touch the deposit to observe the stickiness and transfer

For each association, the evaluations were carried out for composition (A) after drying and after application of composition (A) and (B) after drying.

^* 0.5 mL of olive oil is applied to the formulation film. After 5 minutes, the olive oil is removed using 15 passes with a cotton pad. We thus look at the deterioration of the film following contact with olive oil and transfer to cotton.

If a deposit has good resistance, the cotton remains white and the deposit has not been degraded. Conversely, if a significant transfer is observed, the cotton is red and the film completely degraded. The same protocol is applied with water.

Thus, a note is given for the resistance to olive oil / water but also for the non-transfer ranging from:

• Very good resistance: ++ to Bad resistance: - -

• Non-transfer: No transfer: ++ to Lots of transfers: - -

Below are two examples of a good candidate for very good resistance to olive oil and non-transfer and a bad candidate:

The evaluation and scoring are done as follows:

• Very good resistance: ++ to Bad resistance: - -

• Non-transfer: No transfer: ++ to Lots of transfers: - -

Formulation fragmentation test on Bioskin

As with the olive oil and scotch resistance tests, films are applied to a Bioskin sample only. After a day of drying, thanks to the strength of the hands, the bioskin plate is stretched 10 times in the same way.

Then the result can be observed on the formulation film (fragmentation or not). In this case, a note is given going from No fragmentation: ++ to a lot of fragmentation: - -

Two sample responses are shown below:

Gloss measurement protocol

On a contrast card, a film with a thickness of 50 μm wet is deposited.

The reference of the contrast card is: BYK Company - Product: Byko-charts opacity 2A, category number: 2810 - dimension 140 ^* 254mm

The gloss is then measured using a reference gloss meter: Société Lange - Product: REFO 3D Portable glossmeter with a three-angle geometry

Example 1: Formula containing only volatile oils - Polymer of Example 1 + Amino compound 1

Composition (A1)

m.a = active ingredient

Composition (B1)

Finally, after application of the compositions (A1) and (B1), non-sticky deposits (++), non-transfers and resistant to daily aggressions such as edible oil (olive oil) and water (++) are observed, whereas when the composition (B1) is not applied the tights are very present and unsatisfactory (- -).

Example 2: Formula containing only volatile oils - Polymer of Example 1 + Amino compound 2

Composition (A2)

Composition (B2)

Finally, after application of the compositions (A2) and (B2), non-sticky deposits (++), non-transfers (++) and resistant to daily attack such as edible oil (olive oil) and water are observed. ++), whereas when composition (B2) is not applied: the tights are very present and unsatisfactory (- -).

Example 3: Formula Containing Only Volatile Oils - Polymer of Example 2 + Amino Compound 1

Composition (A3)

Composition (B3)

Finally, after application of the compositions (A3) and (B3), non-sticky deposits (++), non-transfers (++) and resistant to daily attack such as edible oil (olive oil) and water are observed. ++), whereas when the composition (B3) is not applied the tights are very present and unsatisfactory (- -) and the oil resistance is less correct (-). Example 4: Formula containing non-volatile oils: Polymer of Example 1 + Amino compound 1 - Non-volatile oil: pentaphenylated silicone DC555

Composition (A4)

Composition (B4)

After application of the compositions (A4) and (B4), non-sticky deposits (++), non-transfers (++) and resistant to daily aggressions such as edible oil (olive oil) and water are observed. ++), whereas when the composition (B4) is not applied: the tights are very present and unsatisfactory (- -) and the oil resistance is not satisfactory either (- -). Example 5: Formula containing non-volatile oils: Polymer of Example 2 + Amino compound 1 - Non-volatile oil: pentaphenylated silicone DC555

Composition (A5)

Composition (B5)

After application of the compositions (A5) and (B5), non-sticky deposits (++), non-transfers (++) and resistant to daily aggressions such as edible oil (olive oil) and water (++), whereas when the composition (B5) is not applied the tights are very present and unsatisfactory (- -) and the oil resistance is not satisfactory either (- -).

Example 6: Formula containing non-volatile oils: Polymer of Example 1 + Amino compound 1 - Non-volatile oils: octyldodecanol and isododecane

Composition (A6)

Composition (B6)

Finally, after application of the compositions (A6) and (B6), non-sticky deposits (++), non-transfers (++) and resistant to daily aggressions such as edible oil (olive oil) and water (++), whereas when the composition (B6) is not applied the tights are very present (- -) and not satisfactory and the oil resistance is not satisfactory either (- -).

Claims

CLAIMS Process for treating keratinous materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, comprising:

i) one or more particle (s) consisting of one or more ethylenic copolymer (s):

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s);

iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from:

f) amino alkoxysilanes,

Being heard that :

the process uses v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active agents for caring for keratin materials preferably from the skin and c) UV filters as well as d) their mixtures the ingredients a) to d) which may be present in composition (A), and / or in composition (B), and / or in another composition (C); and

compositions (A), (B) and (C) can be applied together or separately.

2. Method for treating keratin materials, in particular the skin, preferably human, and more preferably the face such as the lips, according to the preceding claim comprising:

i) one or more particle (s) consisting of one or more ethylene copolymer (s): a) of (Ci-C ₄ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl, preferably (meth) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl and

c) polymers of (C ₃ -C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (C ₃ -C ₂ ) cycloalkyl; and

d) copolymers of (Ci-C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (C ₃ -Ci ₂ ) cycloalkyle and (C ₁ - C ₄ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl; and

iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil (s); followed by

iv) one or more amino compound (s) chosen from:

f) amino alkoxysilanes;

it being understood that the process uses v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s) chosen from a) pigments, b) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials preferably of the skin and c) filters UV as well as d) their mixtures the ingredients a) to d) which can be found in composition (A), and / or in composition (B), and / or in another composition (C).

3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily dispersion (A) comprises one or more particles consisting of one or more ethylenic copolymers of a) of (Ci-C ₄ ) (alkyl) acrylate of (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl which is of formula H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R 'with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, and R' representing a (C ₁ - C ₄ ) alkyl group, linear or branched, preferably linear in particular in (C ₁ - C ₃ ) alkyl such as methyl or ethyl, preferably (C ₁ - C ₄ alkyl (meth) acrylate), linear or ramilfié, preferably linear in particular in (Ci-C ₃ ) alkyl _, particularly the polymer of the particles is a polymer of (meth) acrylate in C ₁ -C ₄ , linear or ramilfié, preferably linear in particular in (C ₁ - C ₃ ) alkyl;

particularly a) is chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth) acrylate such as acrylate methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, n- (meth) acrylate propyl, isopropyl (meth) acrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, or tert-butyl (meth) acrylate; preferably chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.

4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily dispersion (A) comprises one or more particles consisting of one or more ethylene copolymers of b) anhydride compound containing ethylenic unsaturation b) chosen from derivatives of maleic anhydride ( Ib) and itaconic anhydride (Mb):

(Ib) (Mb)

Formulas (Ib) and (Mb) in which R _a , R _b and R _c , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4) alkyl group, preferably R _a , R _b , and R _c represent a hydrogen atom;

preferably, ingredient b) is of formula (Ib) and more preferably is maleic anhydride.

5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer or polymers of the particles i) of the dispersion (A) comprise, or consist essentially of, from 80 to 99.99% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer (s) , in particular between 85 and 98%, more preferably between 87 and 94% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer (s), of ingredient a) and from 0.01 to 20% by weight of ingredient b) , based on the total weight of the polymer.

6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the copolymer or copolymers of the particles the particles i) consist of polymers a) and b) with a weight ratio a) / b) inclusive between 5.5 and 20, preferably between 6.5 and 16, even more preferably between 6.6 and 15.6.

7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polymer of the particles i) is present in the dispersion (A) in an amount ranging from 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), particularly between 21% to 58.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), preferably ranging from 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A), more preferably ranging from 36% to 42% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A).

8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the stabilizing agent (s) ii) of the dispersion (A) is (are) composed of ethylenic polymers chosen from:

c) polymers of monomers of formula H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R ”with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a (C5-Cio) cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably isobornyl; and

d) the copolymers of H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R 'and of H ₂ C = C (R) -C (0) -0-R ”with R, R' and R ”As defined above;

particularly the stabilizing agent ii) is a polymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate chosen from the homopolymer of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and the random copolymers of isobornyl (meth) acrylate and of (meth) acrylate alkyl in Ci-C ₄ preferably present in a weight ratio of (meth) acrylate, isobornyl acrylate / (meth) acrylate, alkyl-C ₄ greater than 4; advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 4.5 to 19

9. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the assembly i) of particle (s) + ii) stabilizing agent (s) present in the dispersion (A) comprises from 10 to 50% by weight. of copolymers d) better from 15 to 30% by weight of copolymer d) and from 50 to 90% by weight of polymer c) better from 70 to 85% by weight of polymer c), relative to the total weight of the together i) stabilizing agent (s) + ii) polymer particle (s).

10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrocarbon-based oil (s) iii) of the dispersion (A) is (are) apolar (s), ie formed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms. , in particular volatile; more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms; preferably isododecane and octyldodecanol, more preferably isododecane; or else a mixture of non-volatile and volatile oil, preferably the mixture comprises isododecane as volatile oil and a phenylated silicone oil such as a pentaphenylated silicone oil.

11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersion (A) is in reverse emulsion, ie of the water in oil (W / O) type and comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic.

12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the amino compound (s) of composition (B) is (are) chosen (s) from amino alkoxysilanes f) especially chosen (s) from those of formula (IVa):

R ' _l -Si (OR' ₂ ) z (R ' ₃ ): (IVa) Formula (IVa) in which:

- aldehyde -C (0) -H, carboxy -C (0) -OH, amide -C (0) -NH ₂ or urea -NH-C (0) -NH ₂ ; R'1 is optionally interrupted in its hydrocarbon chain by one or more heteroatoms (in particular O, S, NH), a carbonyl group (CO), or their association such as ester -C (0) -0-, or amide -C (0) -NH-, R'1 being linked to the silicon atom directly via a carbon atom,

R’2 and R’3, identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

• z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3,

and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x = 3;

preferably, the amino alkoxysilane of formula (IVa) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethyl) -3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3- (m-aminophenoxy) propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N- (2-aminoethylaminomethyl) phenethyltrimethoxysilane; more preferably 3-aminopropyl triethoxysilane (APTES).

13. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 wherein the amino compound (s) of composition (B) is (are) chosen (s) from e) polyamine compounds having several primary amine groups and / or secondary amine in particular chosen from:

poly ((C2-C5) alkylene imines), and in particular polyethyleneimines and polypropyleneimines, preferably poly (ethyleneimine);

poly (allylamines);

polyvinylamines and their copolymers, in particular with vinylamides;

polyamino acids having NH2 groups such as polylysine,;

amino dextran;

polyvinyl amino alcohol,

copolymers based on acrylamide propylamine;

chitosans; and

the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyllsiloxanes comprising amine groups at the end of the chain or on side chains, are particularly end groups or amino (Ci-C ₆ ) alkyl side groups such as aminopropyl, more particularly those of formula (IVb) or (IVc) or (IVd):

Formula (IVb) in which R ^a and R ^b , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl , aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl, R ^c and R ' ^c , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a hydrogen atom, a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group, an amino group (C 1 -C ₄ ) alkyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylamino (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl, preferably hydrogen atom or an amino group (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as aminoethyl; X represents a covalent bond, an oxygen atom, preferably a covalent bond, ALK and ALK ', identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (C 1 -C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylene such as propylene; n representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 55,000; more preferably the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVb) are of formula (IV'b) or (IV ”b) below:

Formula (IVb) in which the value of n is such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 55,000;

Formula (IV ”b) with R ^c , R ' ^c , ALK, ALK', and n as defined above for (IVb), more preferably ALK and ALK 'are identical and represent a group (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylene such as propylene R ^c and R ' ^c are identical and represent an amino group (Ci-C4) alkyl such as aminoethyl;

Formula (IVc) in which R ^a , R ^b and R ^d , which are identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy group such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl, aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl, R ^d can also represent a (Ci-Ce) alkyl group substituted by a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylamino or amino group, R ^c represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group, preferably hydrogen atom; ALK represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylene such as propylene; n and m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the values of m and n are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 1000 and 55,000;

More preferably, the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVc) have the following formula (IV 'c)

formula (IV’c), in which the values of n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silcone is between 1000 and 55,000;

(IVd)

Formula (IVd) in which R ^a and R ^b , identical or different, preferably identical, represent a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, aryl such as phenyl , aryloxy such as phenoxy, aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as benzyl, or aryl (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as benzoxy, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl,, and R ^d represents a (Ci-Ce) alkyl group optionally substituted by a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylamino or amino group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl, such as isobutyl, terbutyl or n-butyl, R ^c represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom; ALK represents a (Cr C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylene such as propylene; n representing an integer greater than 2 and more particularly the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 5000; more preferably the polydi (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylsiloxanes of formula (IVd) are of formula (IV'd) below:

H ₂ NCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -0- [Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ -0] n-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ C ₄ H ₉

(IV’d)

in formula (IV’d), the value of n is such that the weight-average molecular weight of the silicone is between 500 and 3000; the amodimethicones of formula (IVe):

Formula (IVe) in which

R ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-Ce) alkyl group

ALK and ALK ', identical or different, represent a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably (Ci-C ₄ ) alkylene such as ethylene or propylene; n and m, identical or different, representing an integer greater than 2, p and x are integers greater than or equal to 0, preferably p is between 2 and 20 and more particularly the values of m, n, p and x are such that the weight average molecular weight of the silicone is between 2000 and 700,000, preferably between 5000 and 500,000; more preferably the amodimethicones of formula (IVe) are of formula (IV'e) below:

(IV ”e)

Formula (IV ”e) in which

R ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group;

R ^f , represents a (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl group such as methyl, (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy, or -0- (SiR ₂ ) _x -R 'with R representing a group (Ci-C ₄ ) alkyl such as methyl and R 'a hydroxy group or (Ci-C ₄ ) alkoxy such as methoxy;

R ⁹ represents a hydrogen atom, a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkyl group,

ALK represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably ethylene,

ALK ′ represents a (Ci-C ₆ ) alkylene group, preferably propylene,

Even more particularly (IV ”e) represents:

With R ^f , R ⁹ , ALK, ALK ', m, n as defined for (IV ”e);

more preferably the amino compound (s) (iv) included in composition (B) of the process of the invention is (are) chosen (s) from those of formulas (IVb) and (IVe) as defined previously and even more preferably (IV'b) and (IV'e) as defined above.

14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (B) comprises one or more hydrocarbon-based oil (s) iii) as defined in claim 1, 2 or 8; advantageously the hydrocarbon oils contained in the dispersion (A) and the composition (B) are identical; more preferably, the hydrocarbon oil (s) of composition (B) are isododecane.

15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (B) is aqueous and preferably further comprises one or more chitosans and / or one or more polyamino acids, preferably polylysines.

16. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 14 wherein the composition (B) is anhydrous.

17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which v) the cosmetic agent (s) is (are) chosen from pigments, preferably chosen from:

• organic pigments nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone; the white or colored organic pigments are chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references pigment BLUE 1 LAKE Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108, 47000, 47005 , the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1725, 15510, 45370, 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives;

• The mineral pigments or inorganic pigments chosen from the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide ;

more preferably the pigments v) are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides in particular black and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments in particular blue and purple such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments in particular red such than D&C RED 7 alkali metal salt of lithol red such as calcium salt of lithol red B.

18. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which v) the cosmetic agent (s) as defined in claim 1, 2, or 17 is (are) in the dispersion ( A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 1 1.

19. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 17 in which v) the cosmetic active agent (s), preferably pigment (s) as defined in claim 1, 2 or 17 , is (are) in composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1, 2, 12 to 16.

20. Method according to any one of the preceding claims which uses one or more plasticizer (s) vi) which is (are) present (s) in composition (A), and / or in composition (B), and / or in another composition (C); preferably the plasticizer (s) vi) is (are) chosen from those of the families of phthalates, esters, citrates, benzoates, citrates and siloxanes, more particularly the plasticizer (s) vi) is (are) present in the composition (A) and / or in an amount of between 0.5 and 30% by weight, in particular between 1 and 20%, preferably from 1.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A), and / or in the composition (B), and / or in another composition (C), preferably relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

21. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 20 comprising:

1) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11; followed by

2) the application to said materials of a composition (C) comprising v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), preferably pigment (s) as defined in any one of the claims 1, 2, or 17; followed by

3) the application to said materials of a composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1, 2, 12 to 16.

22. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 20 comprising:

1) the application to said materials of a composition (C) comprising v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), preferably pigment (s) as defined in any one of the claims 1, 2, or 17; followed by

2) the application to said materials of an oily dispersion (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11; followed by

3) the application to said materials of a composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1, 12 to 16.

23. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which between step 1) and step 2) there is no rinsing, and the keratin materials are dried in air, preferably after application. dispersion (A) during step 1) one waits between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 10 minutes and 5 hours, more particularly between 30 minutes and 4 hours, preferably around 3 hours, to apply the composition (B).

24. kit or device with several separate compartments comprising:

In a first compartment: the dispersion (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 1 1,

In a second separate compartment: the composition (B) as defined in any one of claims 1, 2, 12 to 16, and

• optionally in a third compartment separate from the other two: the composition (C) comprising one or more cosmetic agents as defined in claim 1, 2 or 17.

25. Oily dispersion (A) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 1 1 comprising v) one or more cosmetic active agent (s), preferably pigment (s) as defined in any one of claims 1, 2 or 17 it being understood that when v) represents one or more pigment (s) then the dispersion is anhydrous and does not comprise a polyamine compound having several primary amine and / or secondary amine groups and does not include d 'amino alkoxysilane.

26. Oily dispersion (A) as defined in claim 1 1.