EP3344222A1

EP3344222A1 - Cosmetic o/w emulsions for lightening skin

Info

Publication number: EP3344222A1
Application number: EP16738172.2A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Ira Hartmann; Soraya Heinen; Marianne Waldmann-Laue
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2015-08-31
Filing date: 2016-07-12
Publication date: 2018-07-11
Also published as: DE102015216605A1; WO2017036650A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for lightening skin in the form of oil-in-water emulsions, containing a combination of the following ingredients a) – d): a) 0.01 to 3.00 wt.% of at least one C_12-20-alkyl phosphate or a C_12-20-alkyl phosphate salt, b) 0.01 to 3.00 wt.% of at least one – optionally hydrolyzed – C_14-20-mono- or diacylglycerol, c) 0.05 to 5.00 wt.% of at least one alkyl(oligo)glycoside of the general formula RO-[G]_x, in which R represents a saturated alkyl group with 12 to 24 C atoms, G represents a sugar group with 5 or 6 C atoms, and x represents numbers from 1 to 10, and d) 0.01 to 10.00 wt.% of at least one skin lightening ingredient. The compositions are suitable for lightening age spots and/or freckles and/or balancing the skin color and/or achieving a more even skin appearance. The oil-in-water emulsions are additionally characterized by a particularly good storage stability and skin tolerance.

Description

"Cosmetic O / W emulsions for skin lightening"

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to compositions for cosmetic and topical dermatological skin lightening in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which contain at least one skin-lightening active ingredient in addition to a specific combination of emulsifiers.

The pigmentation of the skin takes place in the melanocytes, which are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis next to the basal cells as either isolated or frequently occurring pigment-forming cells depending on the skin type. The melanocytes form melanosomes in which melanin is formed. Through various chemical and / or physical influences, in particular by UV radiation, melanin is increasingly formed. This is transported via the keratinocytes into the corneocytes (horny layer) and leads to a brownish to brown-black skin color. Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine is converted with the participation of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the involvement of sulfur-containing compounds to the reddish phaeomelanin.

Melanin formation - and thus skin and hair color - is subject to external influences and can lead not only to desired effects ("healthy tan") but also to undesired phenomena scarring or skin aging ("age spots") occur. Also, hormonal disorders may be responsible for abnormal melanocyte reactions and increased accumulation of melanin in the skin, resulting in unwanted - mostly brown - spots on the skin.

Since the process of desquamation (superficial detachment of cells or cell groups from their epithelial dressing) involves a constant loss of melanin, lightening of the skin can be achieved by inhibiting the new synthesis of melanin.

Age spots are a sign of aging that requires special treatment. Since it is not only a more intense pigmentation of the skin, but also specifically accumulations of the brownish-waxy pigment lipofuscin (also age or wear pigment), which is the final product of the oxidation of u.a. unsaturated fatty acids of cell membranes and proteins. The lysosomes are no longer able to completely degrade the substance. So he stays back as a stain.

A variety of skin lightening compositions are known in the art. In DE 102005031482A1 skin whitening agents are proposed - including in the form of O / W emulsions containing ascorbic acid or its physiologically acceptable derivatives or salts and 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid and / or azelaic acid.

However, known O / W emulsions for skin lightening often have the disadvantage that their (long-term) storage stability is not always satisfactory.

In particular, in the case of strong temperature fluctuations, it was sometimes found that the anti-spot (or whitening) active ingredients were released from the formulation and no longer showed the desired effect to a sufficient degree. This disadvantage could be counteracted in the past by adding higher amounts of stabilizers to the formulations. However, a large number and / or high levels of different stabilizers in dermatological compositions increase the risk of poorer skin compatibility, which is why this solution is not always desirable.

Object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic or dermatological oil-in-water emulsions with excellent storage stability available. The emulsions should be able to contain as many whitening agents as possible (even in higher amounts) without adversely affecting their stability (especially when stored under extremely high or low temperatures and / or in the event of severe temperature fluctuations). The oil-in-water emulsions should continue to be very skin-friendly and have an excellent skin lightening effect. In addition to brightening individual darker pigment spots (or the local build-up of dark pigment spots), treatment with the oil-in-water emulsions should also optimally result in a holistically more uniform skin tone and thus a smoother, more even and younger appearance of the skin.

It has surprisingly been found that the above-mentioned requirements can be fulfilled by means of a combination of anionic alkyl phosphene emulsifiers, nonionic mono- or diacylglycerides, alkyl (oligo) glycosides and at least one skin-lightening active ingredient.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition for skin lightening in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which contains a combination of the following active ingredients a) -d):

a) 0.01 to 3.00 wt .-% of at least one Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshats or a C 12-20- Alkylphoshatsalzes,

b) 0.01 to 3.00 wt .-% of at least one - optionally hydrolyzed - Ci4-2o mono- or diacylglyceride, c) 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, G for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x represents numbers from 1 to 10, and d) 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-% of at least one skin lightening agent,

wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition.

As a first mandatory ingredient, the oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention contain at least one C 12-2o alkyl phosphate or one C 12-2 o alkyl phosphate salt a) in an amount of 0, based on the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsion , 01 to 3.00 wt .-%.

According to preferred Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshate or Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshatsalze which form as anionic oil-in-water emulsifier, a first part of the invention used 07W emulsifier system are selected from the monoesters of phosphoric acid with lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol or arachidonic alcohol, which are alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolamine or glucammonium salt as sodium, potassium, alkanolamine, trialkylammonium, triethanolamine, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3 propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1, 3-propanediol or tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salt as well as the salt of the basic amino acids ornithine, lysine, arginine and / or histidine, ex can be. Preference is given to the potassium salts of said phosphoric acid monoesters.

Particularly preferred is dipotassium monocetyl phosphate.

Further preferred according to the invention Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshate or Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshatsalze, which form as an anionic oil-in-water emulsifier, a first part of the novel O / W emulsifier, are selected from the diesters of phosphoric acid with lauryl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, Isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, pentadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, nonadecyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol or arachidonic alcohol, which are alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolamine or glucammonium salt , preferably the corresponding sodium, potassium, alkanolamine, trialkylammonium, triethanolamine, 2-amino-1-butanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 , 3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1, 3-propanediol or tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salt and as the salt of the basic amino acids ornithine, lysine, arginine and / or H. isidine, may be present.

Preference is given to the potassium salts of said phosphoric diesters.

Particularly preferred is potassium dicetyl phosphate. Very particular preference is given to mixtures of mono-C 12-2o-alkyl phosphates and C 1 -C 20 -alkyl phosphates.

Extremely preferred are mixtures of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate.

The at least one salt of a C 12-2 o -alkyl phosphate is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 2.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0, 05 to 2.50 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.075 to 2.25 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one salt of cetyl phosphate and / or a mixture of dipotassium monocetyl phosphate and potassium dicetyl phosphate in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 2.75% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 2.50 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.075 to 2.25 wt .-% and in particular from 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the compositions.

C4-2o mono- or diacylglycerides which are preferred according to the invention and form the second part of the O / W emulsifier system according to the invention are selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride as well as mixtures thereof. Further inventively preferred Ci4-2o mono- or Diacylglyceridmischungen are glycerides cured, that is, hydrogenated, preferably fully hydrogenated, fatty acids of natural oils. Hardened (hydrolyzed) palm oil glycerides are particularly preferred according to the invention.

The at least one C 1-4 mono or diacylglyceride b) is particularly preferred in the compositions of the present invention in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3.00 wt%, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.60 wt% preferably from 0.03 to 2.30 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 2.00 wt% and in particular from 0.05 to 1, 70 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition , contain.

Preferred compositions according to the invention contain at least one substance selected from monomyristoylglyceride, monopalmitoylglyceride, monostearoylglyceride, monoarachinoylglyceride, dimyristoylglyceride, dipalmitoylglyceride, distearoylglyceride and diarachinoylglyceride, as well as mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably of 0 , 02 to 2.60 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 2.30 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 2.00 wt% and in particular from 0.05 to 1.70 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition. Further preferred compositions according to the invention contain as Ci4-2o mono- or Diacylglyceridmischungen hardened palm oil glycerides in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.00 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.60 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 2.30 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 2.00 wt% and in particular from 0.05 to 1, 70 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the at least one component a) and the at least one component b) in a weight ratio of from 2/3 to 3/2, preferably from 1/1 to 3/2 and particularly preferably from 6/5 to 3/2 ,

Corresponding O / W-emulsifier systems comprising mixtures of Dikaliummonocetylphosphat and Kaliumdicetylphosphat with hardened Palmölglyceriden, are commercially available, for example under the name Emulsiphos ^® 677 660 (INCI name: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) from the company Symrise.

Their use in the compositions of the invention is particularly preferred. )) Is used for the case where the commercially available product ^® Emulsiphos 677,660 as O / W emulsifier system in the inventive compositions (a) and b, its amount used is from 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.075 to 4.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 4.50% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.15 to 4.25% by weight and in particular from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight .-%, each based on the total weight of the compositions.

It has been found that in order to achieve the desired long-term stability in combination with the excellent skin tolerance of the compositions according to the invention, the additional use of a further emulsifier is required.

As a third essential component of the emulsifier system, the compositions according to the invention therefore contain from 0.05 to 5.00% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x in which R is a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 C atoms, G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10.

Preference is given to alkyl (oligo) glycosides c) of the general formula RO- [G] x, in which R is an alkyl radical having 14 to 20 C atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 C atoms and x is numbers of 1 until 10 stands.

Particularly suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides c) are derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.

The radical R is particularly preferably an alkyl radical having 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 carbon atoms or mixtures of these alkyl radicals.

Particularly preferably, the radical R is a mixture of C ds-alkyl chains ("cetearyl"). The index number x in the general formula RO- [G] x stands for the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie for the distribution of the mono- and oligoglycosides. The index number x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 6, particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may be an integer but not a whole number, which can be determined analytically. Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a DP between 1, 0 to 1, 5.

Very particularly suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides c) are commercially available under the INCI names Cetyl Glucoside, Stearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl in view of their excellent synergistic effect with the O / W emulsifier system (a) and b)) for stabilizing skin-lightening active ingredients Glucoside known compounds. Especially preferred is cetearyl glucoside.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, from 0.10 to 4.50% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 4.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.50 to 3.50% by weight. -% and in particular 0.75 to 3.00 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, G for a Sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10. With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside compound known in the INCI name cetearyl glucoside in the abovementioned amounts.

A corresponding commercial product which contains compounds with the INCI name Cetearyl Glucoside is available under the name Tego ^Care® CG 90 from Evonik.

In a very particularly preferred embodiment, agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain-based on their total weight-a) from 0.025 to 2.75% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2.50% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.075 to 2 , 25 wt .-% and in particular 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-% of at least one salt of a Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshats, preferably a salt of cetyl phosphate,

b) 0.02 to 2.60 wt.%, preferably 0.03 to 2.30 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.04 to 2.00 wt.% and in particular 0.05 to 1.70 wt. % of at least one - optionally hydrolyzed - Ci4-2o mono- or diacylglyceride, preferably a hydrolyzed Ci5-is-mono- or diacylglyceride and in particular hydrolyzed palm oil glyceride,

c) 0, 10 to 4.50 wt .-%, preferably 0.25 to 4.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.50 to 3.50 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 3.00 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, G for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x for numbers from 1 to 10, preferably an alkyl (oligo) glycoside known under the INCI name Cetearyl Glucoside, and d) 0.02 to 9.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.03 to 8.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.04 to 7.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 6.00 wt contains at least one skin lightening agent,

wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

As a fourth essential component, the compositions according to the invention contain from 0.01 to 10.00% by weight, based on their total weight, of at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. This is required for the reduction and / or elimination of dark pigment spots from the skin. Preference is given to amounts of from 0.02 to 9.00% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 8.00% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.04 to 7.00% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 6, 00 wt .-% of the skin lightening agent d).

It has been found that certain skin-lightening active ingredients are particularly suitable according to the invention, because they not only excellently combine with the emulsifier system a), b), c) and lead to particularly storage-stable compositions, but in addition to the lightening of individual, local darker Skin also a large area equalization of the skin color. Treated skin looks fresher and younger.

Particularly suitable skin lightening agents are selected from: ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid glycosides, ascorbic acid glycoside salts, organic ascorbic acid esters, salts of organic ascorbic acid esters, inorganic ascorbic acid esters, salts of organic ascorbic acid esters, 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid, salts of 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid, Resorcinol derivatives, saturated or unsaturated, linear C9-18 dicarboxylic acid (salts), extracts of Olea Europaea and mixtures of these active substances.

In a preferred embodiment, compositions according to the invention contain as at least one skin-lightening active substance d) accordingly at least one active ingredient from the aforementioned group.

Suitable ascorbic acid salts are preferably to be understood as meaning the alkali metal, ammonium and alkaline earth metal salts. Particularly preferred salts of ascorbic acid which can be used according to the invention as skin-whitening active ingredient are sodium hydroascorbate, sodium ascorbate, potassium hydroascorbate, potassium ascorbate, ammonium ascorbate, ammonium hydroascorbate, calcium ascorbate, calcium hydroascorbate, magnesium ascorbate and magnesium hydroascorbate.

Suitable ascorbic acid esters for the purposes of the present invention may preferably be selected from esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids according to the following formula (I)

in the

one to four of the radicals R 1 to R 4 represent the moiety -C (O) -R and the other radicals may be hydrogen; and R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alk (en) yl radical having 8 to 24, preferably 10 to 20 and in particular 13 to 17 carbon atoms.

Very particularly preferred esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids are the following compounds: ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or ascorbyl linoleate.

Due to its excellent penetration into the skin, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is one

in particular preferred organic ascorbic acid ester.

Further suitable ascorbic acid esters for the purposes of the present invention are esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic acids, preferably with phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid. Particularly preferred according to the invention are ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate or the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate, such as, for example, the compounds known under the INCI names Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate and / or Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate ,

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a particularly preferred inorganic ascorbic acid ester because of its excellent stability in aqueous media.

Also ascorbic acid derivatives with glycosidically bound sugars are inventively used with particular preference. In particular, the ascorbyl glucoside and / or one of its physiologically tolerated salts has proved useful.

Particular preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention which contain combinations of fatty and water-soluble ascorbic acid (derivatives) in order to increase the stability and effectiveness of the compositions. Especially preferred are combinations of ascorbic acid with the abovementioned ascorbyl phosphate salts and / or ascorbyl glucoside and / or ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. A further preferred embodiment of the invention is accordingly characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise as skin-lightening active ingredient d) ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid glycosides, ascorbic acid glycoside salts, organic ascorbic acid esters, salts of organic ascorbic acid esters, inorganic ascorbic acid esters and / or salts of organic ascorbic acid esters. Particularly preferred within this embodiment are compositions which contain ascorbic acid and / or at least one of the compounds known under the INCI names Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and / or Ascorbyl Glucoside.

Ascorbic acid and / or its preferred derivatives and / or salts mentioned above may preferably be used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 4.50% by weight. %, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 4.00 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 3.50 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3.00 wt .-% are used, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the compositions.

Particular preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention which contain ascorbic acid and / or at least one of the compounds known in the INCI names ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl glucoside in the abovementioned amounts. Particular preference is given to mixtures of ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucosides.

Another preferred skin-lightening active ingredient d), which can be excellently combined with the emulsifier mixture (a), b), c)), is an extract of Olea Europaea, in particular an extract of the leaves of Olea Europaea, as it is commercially available, for example the INCI name Olea europaea leaf extract is available from various suppliers.

The preparation of the extract is carried out according to known from the prior art methods preferably from the leaves of the olive tree with a mixture of water and alcohol and subsequent hydrolysis of the extract.

Olive leaves contain on average 60-90 mg of the polyphenol oleuropein per gram dry weight (in addition to phenols, flavonoids, organic acids and hydrocarbons), which shows a very high antioxidant activity. In addition, Oleuropein also significantly reduces the cellular waste products lipofuscin, which are responsible for the development of age spots.

In a further preferred embodiment, cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as skin-lightening active ingredient d) at least one plant extract known under the INCI name Olea Europaea Leaf Extract. The extract of Olea Europaea, in particular an extract known under the INCI name Olea europaea leaf extract, may preferably be present in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably of 0, 02 to 2.50 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.03 to 2.00 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.04 to 1, 50 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 1, 00th Wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the compositions.

In a further preferred embodiment, it may be advantageous to use mixtures of ascorbic acid and / or salts and / or derivatives of ascorbic acid with an extract of Olea Europaea in the compositions according to the invention.

Particularly preferred within this embodiment are mixtures of ascorbic acid, an ascorbic acid derivative known by the INCI name Ascorbyl Glucoside and a plant extract known by the INCI name Olea europaea leaf extract.

Such mixtures are commercially available, for example under the name lllumiscin ^® from Rahn. lllumiscin ^® can be used in compositions of the invention preferably as a skin-lightening active ingredient d).

In the event that the commercial product lllumiscin ^{® is used} as a skin lightening agent in the compositions according to the invention, the amount used is 0.10 to 8.00 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.25 to 7.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.50 to 6.00 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 0.75 to 5.00 wt .-% and in particular from 1, 00 to 4.00 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the compositions.

Another preferred skin-lightening active ingredient d) which can be excellently combined with the emulsifier mixture (a), b), c)) is selected from 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid and / or salts of 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid.

2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid and its salts are commercially available in racemic form, as well as in the form of their R and S enantiomers.

2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid and / or salts of 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy propionic acid may in the compositions according to the invention - preferably on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0, 10 to 3.00 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.20 to 2.50 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.30 to 2.00 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 0.40 to 1, 50 wt .-% and in particular from 0.50 to 1 , 25 wt .-% are used.

According to the invention, 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid is understood as meaning both the racemic mixture and (S) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid or (R) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid.

Preferred in terms of excellent activity against pigment spots of any kind (age spots and / or freckles) is (R) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid or physiologically acceptable salt such as alkali or ammonium salts of (R) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid.

Corresponding products are commercially available, for example under the trade name Radianskin ^® PW LS 9918 by BASF.

It has been found that the treatment of highly pigmented skin with the compositions according to the invention resulted in particularly good results with regard to the lightening of pigment spots when ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives and / or salts with olive leaf extract and (R) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid was combined. In particular, the content of lipofuscin in the skin could thereby be significantly reduced and thus also age spots better brightened or mitigated.

Particularly suitable in this context, the combination of commercial products lllumiscin ^® and Radianskin ^® PW LS 9918 was.

In a further preferred embodiment, cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they

Ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucosides,

at least one plant extract known under the INCI name Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, and

(R) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid and / or their alkali metal or ammonium salt.

Resistant derivatives, in particular the compounds known under the INCI name phenylethyl resorcinol, and / or saturated or unsaturated, linear C 9 -is-dicarboxylic acid (salts), which in each case are present in the compositions according to the invention, may also serve as skin-lightening active ingredients d) preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 3.00 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.05 to 2.50 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 2.00 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.20 to 1, 50 wt .-% and in particular from 0.30 to 1, 00 wt .-% can be used, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

Particularly suitable saturated or unsaturated, linear C 9 -is dicarboxylic acid (salts) may preferably be selected from: 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, 7-tetradecene-1, 14-dicarboxylic acid, 9-octadecene-1, 18-dicarboxylic acid , 6-dodecene-1, 12-dicarboxylic acid, 5-decene-1, 10-dicarboxylic acid, decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid).

8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid (INCI name octadecenedioic acid) is a metabolite of yeast cells from selected mutant strains of the Candida strain, using as starting substance a fatty acid of pure plant origin, which is in the hydroxy Fatty acid is reacted, which is then oxidized through the stage of fatty acid aldehyde to dicarboxylic acid. The commercial product has a purity of 95%, wherein the 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid is present therein as a mixture of the cis and trans isomers and outweighs the cis isomers in terms of quantity. The product may contain up to 3% by weight of oleic acid.

Very particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to the invention contain, based on its total weight, 0.05 to 3.00% by weight, preferably 0.07 to 2.00% by weight, more preferably 0.08 to 1.50% by weight. -% and in particular 0, 10 to 1, 00 wt .-% 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid (INCI name Octadecendioic acid).

In a further preferred embodiment, cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as skin-whitening active ingredient d) at least one compound known under the INCI name phenylethyl resorcinol and / or at least one linear C9-is dicarboxylic acid, preferably 8-hexadecene-1 , 16-dicarboxylic acid, 7-tetradecene-1, 14-dicarboxylic acid, 9-octadecene-1, 18-dicarboxylic acid, 6-dodecene-1, 12-dicarboxylic acid, 5-decene-1, 10-dicarboxylic acid, decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), very particularly preferably phenylethyl resorcinol and / or 9-octadecene-1, 18-dicarboxylic acid (INCI name: Octadecenediocic Acid).

For further support of the skin whitening action of the compositions according to the invention and / or for simultaneous care (in particular for increasing the skin moisture and elasticity of the skin) it may be advantageous if the cosmetic or dermatological further active compounds according to the invention, preferably special plant extracts and / or hyaluronic acid (derivatives) to be added.

Suitable plant extracts are, above all, those which can be easily incorporated into the compositions according to the invention and optimally support the lightening of the skin, but in particular the achievement of a more uniform skin tone.

These preferably include the extracts of Quassia amara, Pisum sativum, Bambusa vulgaris, Opuntia ficus indica and / or Brassicae.

These preferred plant extracts can be used in the compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - individually or as a mixture - in each case in amounts of 0.001 to 10.00 wt .-%.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, from 0.001 to 10.00% by weight of at least one plant extract selected from extracts of Quassia amara, Pisum sativum, Bambusa vulgaris, Opuntia ficus indica and / or Brassicae. Quassia amara (Brazilian Quassia tree, Quassia tree, Bitterwood) is a species in the broom family (Simaroubaceae). It is widespread in the Neotropics. The extracts which can be used according to the invention are preferably obtained from the wood.

Extracts from Quassia amara can according to known manufacturing processes in variable composition with solvents such. As water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and mixtures thereof at temperatures from room temperature to 100 ° C under mild to vigorous mixing within 10 min. To 24 hours. Under atmospheric pressure up to 200 bar. For enrichment of effectiveness-determining components further concentration steps can be carried out such. B. liquid-liquid distribution with z. B. 1 - butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption-desorption on ion exchanger, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations over RP18, silica gel, etc. If further processing to dry extracts is desired, this is done by per se known methods Stripping off the solvent at elevated temperature and / or reduced pressure.

Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or Pisum sativum extract support the collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin and can contribute to achieving a particularly even and elastic appearance of the skin in the compositions according to the invention. Bambusa vulgaris (Goldbamboo) is a plant of the grass family (Poaceae), which occurs predominantly in Southeast Asia and Africa.

Pisum sativum is a plant of the genus Peas (Pisum) from the legume family (Fabaceae) and is native to Asia Minor.

Extracts of Bambusa vulgaris and / or Pisum sativum can be prepared by known manufacturing processes in variable composition.

Advantageously, a polar solvent or a mixture of polar solvents is used to obtain the extract. Among the ordinary solvents for extraction, a protic solvent may be used which is selected from the group consisting of: water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, cyclohexanol, diethylene glycol, HO- (CH 2) 2 OH and one of their mixtures. It is also possible to use an aprotic polar solvent which is selected in particular from the group consisting of: pyridine, butanone, acetone, AC ₂ O, (Me ₂ N) ₂ CO, PhCN, CH 3 CH ₂ CN, HM PA, PhNO ₂ , McNO ₂ , DMF, MeCN, sulfolane, DMSO, HCONH2, NCONHMe, CHsCONHMe and one of their mixtures.

Preferably, water or a mixture of water and an alcohol such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or butanol, a polyol such as butylene glycol or an ester such as ethyl acetate or a mixture of these solvents is used. The mixing ratios of the above-mentioned solvents generally vary between 1: 1 and 1: 100, and preferably between 1: 1 and 1:10; for example, a mixture of 25/75 is used. The extraction can be carried out by stirring and / or heating, for example between 30 and 60 ° C or by reflux of the solvent used. The extraction is usually carried out at atmospheric pressure, but also an extraction under pressure can be carried out. The extraction time is determined by the skilled person and depends in particular on the extraction conditions.

Multiple extractions may be performed and the resulting fractions pooled if desired.

Also preferred according to the invention for some embodiments of the invention may be the use of Bambusa vulgaris extract and Pisum sativum extract.

Mixtures of Bambusa vulgaris extract and Pisum sativum extract are commercially available, for example under the trade name Derm ^SRC® PF from Barnet Products.

Opuntia ficus indica is a species of the genus Opuntia of the cactus family (Cactaceae), which is native to India. Extracts of Opuntia can be prepared according to known manufacturing processes in variable composition with solvents such. Water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and mixtures thereof at temperatures of 20 ° C to 100 ° C under mild to vigorous mixing within 10 min. To 24 hours. Under atmospheric pressure at up to 200 bar. For enrichment of efficacy-determining components, further concentration steps may be carried out, e.g. liquid-liquid distribution with e.g. 1-butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption-desorption on ion exchangers, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations over RP18, silica gel, etc. If further processing to dry extracts is desired, this is done by stripping by conventional methods the solvent at elevated temperature and / or reduced pressure. The ingredients obtained by extraction can be chemically modified, in particular, the hydrolysis of particular importance. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention containing at least one wholly or partially hydrolyzed extract of Opuntia ficus indica (CAS No. 90082-21-6) are furthermore preferred embodiments of the present invention.

Relevant extracts of Opuntia ficus indica are commercially available, for example under the name Skin Moon ^® from Bionap or Exfolactive ^® from Silab.

The Kreuzblütengewächse (Brassicae or Cruciferae), also called cruciferous plants, are a plant family in the order of the cruciferous (Brassicales).

Brassica napus in particular has proved to be particularly suitable according to the invention among the Brassica plants. Extracts of Brassica napus increase the skin lightening effect of the aforementioned skin-lightening active ingredients d) and also lead to an improved skin tolerance and to a more intense and less irritating effect even under sunlight. Rapeseed (Brassica napus) is a plant of the family Brassica (Brassicaceae).

In the preparation of Brassica extracts (by conventional methods), the ingredients obtained by extraction can be chemically modified, in particular, the hydrolysis of particular importance. In addition, it has proved advantageous to ferment parts of Braissica napus before extraction, since the efficacy of the extracts is increased in this way. Cosmetic compositions according to the invention which contain at least one wholly or partially hydrolyzed extract from fermented plant parts of Brassica napus are particularly preferred.

Suitable active ingredients for increasing the nourishing properties of the compositions according to the invention are preferably hyaluronic acid (derivatives), "nourishment" in the sense of the present invention meaning in particular the increase in skin moisture, suppleness, smoothness and elasticity of the treated skin.

According to a further preferred embodiment, compositions according to the invention additionally contain hyaluronic acid, an ester and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid in an amount (based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention) of from 0.01 to 20.00% by weight, preferably of 0.05 to 15.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.10 to 10.00 wt .-%, very particularly preferably from 0.20 to 7.50 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5.00 wt. -%.

Suitable salts of hyaluronic acid are preferably their alkali metal and / or ammonium salts, for example the hyaluronic acid salt commercially available under the INCI name Sodium Hyaluronate from various suppliers (Therapo, CPN).

Preferred esters of hyaluronic acid may be selected from silanol esters, as obtainable, for example, under the INCI name Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate. A preferred commercial product is offered for example by the company under the name Exsymol DSH CN ^® commercially.

As an alternative to hyaluronic acid in pure form, it can also be part of small beads which can be added to the compositions according to the invention. Suitable beads are available, for example under the trade name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ^® by the company BASF.

For the purposes of the present invention, O / W emulsions may, for example, be in the form of creams, lotions and / or cosmetic milks and, in addition to the aforementioned active substances, furthermore contain fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances as well as water and optionally further emulsifiers. The content of the water phase in the O / W emulsions according to the invention is preferably 10 to 80% by weight, preferably 15 to 75% by weight, more preferably 20 to 70% by weight, even more preferably 25 to 65% by weight. % and in particular 30 to 60 wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the O / W emulsions.

The term "water phase" in the context of the invention means both water and a water-alcohol mixture.

The alcohol content in the emulsions according to the invention may preferably be from 1 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 30 and in particular from 3 to 20% by weight. Suitable alcohols are preferably glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols , 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 1, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures of the aforementioned Substances into consideration.

Preference is given to water-soluble alcohols.

Preferred water-soluble polyethylene glycols may be selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being particularly preferred. Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose may also be preferred according to the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions of the invention contain as alcohol 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, diglycerol, triglycerol, dipropylene glycol and / or tripropylene glycol.

The oil phase is present in O / W emulsions according to the invention preferably in a weight fraction of 0.50-50.00% by weight of the total weight of the O / W emulsion, more preferably from 1.00-40.00% by weight. , more preferably from 1.50-30.00 wt%, and most preferably from 2.00-25.00 wt%.

The emulsifier (s) is (are) counted neither the oil phase nor the water phase. In a preferred embodiment, the oil phase consists of at least 90 wt .-% of an oil component at 20 ° C liquid.

Preferred oil components which can be used in emulsions which are preferred according to the invention are selected, for example, from:

volatile silicone oils, which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L 2), octamethyltrisiloxane (L 3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L 4), any two and three mixtures of L 2, L 3 and / or L. 4, as they are z. In the commercial products DC 2-1 184, Dow ^Corning® 200 (0.65 cSt) and Dow ^Corning® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning,

nonvolatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available e.g. Example under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid with viscosities ranging from 5 to 100 cSt preferably, of 5 - 50 cSt or 5 - 10 cSt, and Baysilon ^® 350 M,

the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated. These include 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (z. B. Cegesoft ^® C 24), hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanot, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyloctanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, Ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate,

the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Cs-22-alkanols, for. , The commercial products Finsolv ^® TN (Ci2-Cis-alkyl benzoate), Finsolv ^® SB (isostearyl benzoate), and Finsolv EB ^® (ethylhexyl)

the C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C 2 -C 7 -hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear Ci2 / is-alkanols, eg. As Ci2-Ci5-alkyl lactate, and branched in 2-position Ci2 / i3-alkanols, for. B. Di-Ci2-Ci3-alkyl malate, are under the trademark Cosmacol ^® from the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® EMI, Cosmacol ^® ESI and Cosmacol ^® ETI,

the addition products of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to mono- or polyhydric C3-20 alkanols such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^®, PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ^®), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57), PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® e)

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils, e.g. B. the commercial products of the Permethyl ^® series, in particular isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane,

synthetic hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene or polydecene and alicyclic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. the commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), the branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are available after the Guerbet reaction. Particularly preferred alcohol oils are for example Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G), octyl dodecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol,

Blends of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g. B. the commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate), the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),

Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, for example soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. , The commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) as well as glyceryl and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis),

Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / dinutyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, Di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate,

Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for. As di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), di-n-hexyl-n-octyl ether and n-octyl-n-decyl ether.

Particularly preferred oils are silicone oils and esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, especially volatile and nonvolatile silicone oils from the Dow Corning 200 Fluid series and / or Dow Corning 9041 which Esteröle 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl laurate and / or the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C 22 alkanols, in particular the commercial product Finsolv ^®.

It may also be preferred for some embodiments of the compositions of the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils. In particular, mixtures of two types of oil components, eg. As a silicone oil and an ester oil, preferably.

In addition to the cosmetic ingredients and active ingredients mentioned above, the compositions according to the invention may also contain further optional constituents which give them advantageous properties. Other possible ingredients include in particular:

natural or synthetic stabilizers (hydrogel), for example, anionic copolymers such as the commercial products Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC, Simulgel ^® 600, Simulgel ^® NS, Simulgel ^® EG, Simulgel ^® EPG and Sepiplus ^® 400, Aristoflex ^® AVC by Clariant, and those available under the INCI names Carbopol commercially available products from different vendors, such as Carbopol Ultrez ^® 30, nonionic from Lubrizol, the Pemulen ^® and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex Noveon and BF Goodrich) Hydrogel formers such as the commercial products Mowiol ^® and Luviskol ^® (BASF) and / or natural Hydrogel formers, preferably hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose,

Hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and starch and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starch, eg hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate, in particular the anionic starch derivatives aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (eg the commercial products Dry ^Flo® ), sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, furthermore chitosan and its Derivatives, furthermore, polysaccharides which form gums or gums, such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates, especially sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya gum, carrageenans, locust bean gum, linseed gums, shellac and agar-agar,

Vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors, preferably those which are assigned to the groups A, B, F and H, and in particular vitamin E acetate, vitamin A palmitate, niacinamide, panthenol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and / or biotin. The vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors can be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight in each case.

Preservatives such as, for example, benzoic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol, octoxyglycerol, which may be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 2.00% by weight in each case,

Physiologically acceptable acids and / or bases for adjusting the pH,

perfumes,

UV filter. The following examples illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it to:

Examples:

The following cosmetic or dermatological skin lightening compositions were prepared, all numerical values in the following examples, unless otherwise stated, corresponding to the amount of the respective active ingredient in percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition:

^* R: saturated alkyl radical having 12-24 C atoms; G: sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms; x: 1-10

Formula 11 Formula 12 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15

Cetyl phosphate (salt) 0.01-3.00 0.025-2.75 0.05-2.50 0.075-2.25 0.10-2.00

Hydrolyzed 0.01-3.00 0.02-2.60 0.03-2.30 0.04-2.00 0.05-1.70 palm oil glyceride

Cetearyl Glucoside 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50 - 3.50 0.75-3.00

Skin lightening 0.01 - 10.0 0.02-9.00 0.03-8.00 0.04-7.00 0.05-6.00 active ingredient

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients Formula 16 Formula 17 Formula 18 Formula 19 Formula 20

Emulsiphos®1 ⁶⁷⁷⁶⁶⁰ 0.05-5.00 0.075-4.75 0.10-4.50 0.15-4.25 0.20-4.00

Tego ^Care®2 CG 90 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50 - 3.50 0.75-3.00

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients

Formula 31 Formula 32 Formula 33 Formula 34 Formula 35

Cetyl phosphate (salt) 0.01-3.00 0.025-2.75 0.05-2.50 0.075-2.25 0.10-2.00

Hydrolyzed 0.01-3.00 0.02-2.60 0.03-2.30 0.04-2.00 0.05-1.70 palm oil glyceride

Cetearyl Glucoside 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50 - 3.50 0.75-3.00

Olea europaea leaf 0.01 -3.00 0.02-2.50 0.03-2.00 0.04-1.50 0.05-1.00 extract

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients Formula 36 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39 Formula 40

Tego ^Care®2 CG 90 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50-3.50 0.75-3.00

Olea europaea leaf 0.01 -3.00 0.02-2.50 0.03-2.00 0.04-1.50 0.05-1.00 extract

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients

Formula 51 Formula 52 Formula 53 Formula 54 Formula 55

Cetyl phosphate (salt) 0.01-3.00 0.025 0.05-2.50 0.075 0.10-2.00

2.75 2.25

Hydrolyzed palm oil glyceride 0.01 -3.00 0.02-2.60 0.03-2.30 0.04-2.00 0.05-1.70

Cetearyl Glucosides 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50 - 3.50 0.75

3.00

(R) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) 0.01 0.20-2.50 0.30 0.40 0.50 Propionic acid ( ^{Radianskin®4} ) 3.00 2.00 1.50 1.25

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients Formula 56 Formula 57 Formula 58 Formula 59 Formula 60

Tego ^Care®2 CG 90 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50-3.50 0.75-3.00 ^{lllumiscin®3} 0.10-8, 00 0,25-7,50 0,50-6,00 0,75-5,00 1,00-4,00

Radianskin ^®4 0.01 -3.00 0,20-2,50 0,30-2,00 0,40-1,50 0,50-1,25

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients

Formula 71 Formula 72 Formula 73 Formula 74 Formula 75

Cetyl phosphate (salt) 0.01-3.00 0.025-2.75 0.05-2.50 0.075-2.25 0.10-2.00

Hydrolyzed 0.01-3.00 0.02-2.60 0.03-2.30 0.04-2.00 0.05-1.70 palm oil glyceride

Cetearyl Glucosides 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50 - 3.50 0.75-3.00 ^{lllumiscin®3} 0.10-8.00 0.25 -7,50 0,50-6,00 0,75-5,00 1,00-4,00

Hyaluronic acid, sodium 0.01 -20.0 0.05-15.0 0.10-10.0 0.20-7.50 0.25-5.00 hyaluronates and / or dimethylsilanol

Hyaluronate

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients

Formula 86 Formula 87 Formula 88 Formula 89 Formula 90

Cetyl phosphate (salt) 0.01-3.00 0.025-2.75 0.05-2.50 0.075-2.25 0.10-2.00

Hydrolyzed 0.01-3.00 0.02-2.60 0.03-2.30 0.04-2.00 0.05-1.70 palm oil glyceride

Cetearyl Glucosides 0.05-5.00 0.10-4.50 0.25-4.00 0.50 - 3.50 0.75-3.00 ^{lllumiscin®3} 0.10-8.00 0.25 -7,50 0,50-6,00 0,75-5,00 1,00-4,00 Radianskin ^®4 0.01 -3.00 0,20-2,50 0,30-2,00 0,40-1,50 0,50-1,25

Hyaluronic acid, sodium 0.01 -20.0 0.05-15.0 0.10-10.0 0.20-7.50 0.25-5.00 hyaluronates and / or

dimethylsilanol

Hyaluronate

Quassia amara extract 0.05-5.00 0,10-4,50 0,20-4,00 0,30-3,50 0,50-3,00

Water and other ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ingredients

INCI name Supplier /

Manufacturer

Emulsiphos ® ¹ 677660 Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Symrise

Palm Glycerides

Tego ^Care®2 CG 90 Cetearyl Glucoside Evonik lllumiscin ^®3 Glycerin, Aqua, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Rahn AG

Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Ascorbic Acid

Radianskin ^®4 PW LS 9918 hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid BASF

Sym ^White®5 377 phenylethyl resorcinol Symrise

^ODA®6 White ^{Octadecenediocic} Acid Croda

DSH ^CN®7 dimethylsilanol hyaluronate exsymol

Lanette ^{® 8} 22 Behenyl Alcohol BASF

Cetiol ^CC®9 dicaprylyl carbonates BASF

Cetiol SB ^45®10 Shea Butter BASF

Exfolactive EL ^® Hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus indica Flower Extract Silab

Hyaluronic Filling Sheres ^®12 Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, BASF

Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid

Carbopol ETD ^{® 3} 2020 Acrylates / Cio-3o Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Lubrizole

Dow Corning 9041®14 ^dimethicone , dimethicone crosspolymer Dow Corning

Claims

claims:

1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for skin whitening in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a combination of the following active ingredients a) - d) a) 0.01 to 3.00 wt .-% of at least one Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshats or a C 12-20 alkyl phosphate salt,

b) 0.01 to 3.00 wt .-% of at least one - optionally hydrolyzed - Ci4-2o mono- or diacylglyceride,

c) 0.05 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, G for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and x represents numbers from 1 to 10, and d) 0.01 to 10.00 wt .-% of at least one skin lightening agent,

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it - based on their total weight - a) 0.025 to 2.75 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2.50 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.075 to 2.25 Wt .-% and in particular 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-% of at least one salt of a Ci2-2o-Alkylphoshats, preferably a salt of cetyl phosphate,

c) 0, 10 to 4.50 wt .-%, preferably 0.25 to 4.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.50 to 3.50 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 3.00 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] x, in the R for a saturated alkyl radical having 12 to 24 carbon atoms, G for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x for numbers from 1 to 10, preferably an alkyl (oligo) glycoside known under the INCI name Cetearyl Glucoside, and

d) 0.02 to 9.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.03 to 8.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.04 to 7.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 6.00 wt contains at least one skin lightening agent,

wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises at least one skin lightening agent d) selected from ascorbic acid, Ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid glycosides, ascorbic acid glycoside salts, organic ascorbic acid esters, salts of organic ascorbic acid esters, inorganic ascorbic acid esters, salts of organic ascorbic acid esters, 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid, salts of 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid, resorcinol derivatives, saturated or unsaturated, linear C9-is Dicarboxylic acid (salts), extracts of Olea Europaea and mixtures of these active ingredients.

4. A composition according to claim 2, containing as skin-lightening active ingredient d) ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid salts, ascorbic acid glycosides, ascorbic acid glycoside salts, organic ascorbic acid esters, salts of organic ascorbic acid esters, inorganic ascorbic acid esters and / or salts of organic ascorbic acid esters, in particular ascorbic acid and / or at least one of the INCI names Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitates, magnesium ascorbyl phosphates and / or ascorbyl glucosides known compounds.

5. The composition according to claim 2, containing as a skin lightening agent d) 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid and / or an alkali metal or ammonium salt of 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid, in particular 2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid.

6. The composition of claim 2, comprising as skin-lightening active ingredient d) at least one plant extract known under the INCI name Olea Europaea Leaf Extract.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, comprising as skin-lightening agent d) a mixture of

Ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucosides,

(R) -2- (4-hydroxyphenoxy) propionic acid and / or its alkali metal or ammonium salt.

8. The composition of claim 2, comprising as skin-lightening active ingredient d) at least one known under the INCI name phenylethyl resorcinol compound and / or at least one linear C9-is dicarboxylic acid, preferably 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, 7-tetradecene -1, 14-dicarboxylic acid, 9-octadecene-1, 18-dicarboxylic acid, 6-dodecene-1, 12-dicarboxylic acid, 5-decene-1, 10-dicarboxylic acid, decanedioic acid (sebacic acid) and / or nonanedioic acid (azelaic acid), all particularly preferred phenylethyl resorcinol and / or 9-octadecene-1, 18-dicarboxylic acid (INCI name: Octadecenediocic Acid).

9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it from 0.001 to 10.00% by weight of at least one plant extract selected from extracts of Quassia amara, Pisum sativum, Bambusa vulgaris, Opuntia ficus indica and / or Brassicae and / or by weight, based on their total weight.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they - based on their total weight - 0.01 to 20.00 wt .-% of at least one skin-care agent, preferably hyaluronic acid and / or an ester and / or a salt containing hyaluronic acid.