EP3337569A1

EP3337569A1 - Oxidation dyeing agent with special hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers

Info

Publication number: EP3337569A1
Application number: EP16735652.6A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Sylvia KERL; Susanne Hagenow
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2015-08-18
Filing date: 2016-07-05
Publication date: 2018-06-27
Also published as: US20180228719A1; US10456352B2; DE102015215714A1; WO2017029015A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic agent for dyeing keratin fibers, in particular human hair, containing at least one specific hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalised silicone polymer and at least one oxidation dye precursor and/or a direct dye, wherein the use of the at least one hydroxy-terminated amine-functionalised silicone polymer leads to improved care of the keratin fibers together with extremely low color shift. The invention further relates to a corresponding packaging unit (kit of parts) and to a method for dyeing keratin fibers. Finally, the invention relates to the use of the claimed cosmetic agent and to the claimed packaging unit.

Description

"Oxidation Dyes with Specific Hydroxy-Terminated, Amine-Functionalized Silicone Polymers"

The present invention relates to cosmetic agents for coloring keratinic fibers containing specific hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising a cosmetic agent according to the invention and an oxidizing agent preparation.

Moreover, the present invention relates to a method for coloring keratinischen

Fibers using a cosmetic composition according to the invention and a

Oxidizing agent preparation.

Finally, the present invention relates to the use of a cosmetic agent according to the invention or a packaging unit according to the invention for increasing the care of keratinous fibers while minimizing the color shift.

Human hair is treated today in many ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play an important role. Apart from bleaching agents, which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, in the field of hair color change the oxidative hair coloring is of essential importance. For permanent, intensive dyeings with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, also referred to as developer components and coupler components. The developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components, the actual dyes. For naturally acting dyeings, a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors (referred to below as OFV) must usually be used; In many cases, direct dyes (hereinafter referred to as DZ) continue to be used for shading.

For the most part, oxidative colorants for stabilizing the dye precursors during storage and for accelerating the reaction during the oxidative application have an alkaline pH, which is adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.

The abovementioned oxidation dye precursors (OFV) and alkalizing agents are usually incorporated in a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example a cream or a gel. The carrier ensures a homogeneous distribution and a sufficient residence time of the oxidative coloring agent on the hair. Commercial oxidation colorants are usually formulated in product series which comprise a standardized carrier which can be combined as completely as possible with the nuance-specific OFV combination and alkalizing agents.

Consumers can usually obtain the coloring of the hair that can be achieved with a hair dye from an indication on the packaging of the hair dye and / or a color chart enclosed in the packaging. For the consumer, it is very important that the result of the dyeing match as closely as possible with the color specified by the manufacturer.

Hair dyes are therefore extensively and extensively tested for their achievable color and for a variety of application properties prior to market introduction. However, these tests only consider the interactions between OFV and optionally DZ and the standardized carrier only for a particular standardized carrier. On the part of the manufacturers there is a regular desire to tailor a hair dye series specifically to the specific needs of certain consumer groups by adding appropriate active ingredients or conditioners to the standardized carrier. For consumers with more damaged hair, for example, the addition of one or more conditioner (s) with reparative action would be advisable; For consumers with fine hair, the addition of one or more hair structure strengthening agents would be recommended.

However, the result of the coloring does not depend solely on the combination of the OFV and optionally DZ used, but is particularly influenced by the ingredients of the carrier. For example, the addition of care and / or active substances to the standardized carriers can lead to a change in the absorption capacity of the dyes formed under the influence of the oxidizing agent or of the substantive dyes on the keratinic fibers and thus to a staining result that is greatly altered compared to the standardized carrier. For the purposes of the present application, such color differences or altered dyeing results are referred to as "color shift." This color shift, also denoted dE or ΔΕ, can be determined colorimetrically with a colorimeter with which the colors in the L ^* , a ^* , b ^* Color space can be measured, for example, with a colorimeter from the company Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450th

The L ^* , a ^* , b ^* color space is understood to mean the CIELAB color space. The L value stands for the brightness of the color (black and white axis); the larger the value for L, the lighter the coloration. The a value stands for the red-green axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the coloring is shifted to red. The b value stands for the yellow-blue axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to yellow.

The color shift ΔΕ, ie the color difference between two (hair) colors, for each of which an L ^* , a ^* , b ^* value combination was determined, is calculated according to the following formula:

ΔΕ = ((Li-Lo) ² + (ai-ao) ² + (bi-bo) ² ) ' ²

ao, bo and Lo are the L ^* , a ^* and b ^* values of the strands of hair dyed using the standardized carrier, while and Li are the L ^* , a ^* and b ^* values used for dyeing using care products. and / or agents in the standardized carrier to be obtained. The greater the value for ΔΕ, the more pronounced is the color difference or "color shift." Color differences with ΔE <1 are not perceptible to the human eye, and differences in color ΔΕ <2 are only visible to the trained eye Color differences ΔΕ> 2 are also visible to the untrained eye.

In the worst case, the addition of an additive to a standardized carrier causes a color shift relative to the standard carrier without additives of ΔΕ> 2, which is also visible to the untrained eye of the consumer. In order to avoid the need to carry out costly tests with regard to hair coloration which can be achieved and, if appropriate, the fastness properties with each addition of additives to standardized carriers, it is therefore desirable to identify active ingredients and hair conditioners whose addition has no or at least only a slight effect Color shift causes.

The present application was therefore based on the object of providing cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinic fibers, which contain one or more selected care and active ingredients, which cause little or no color shift. It has now surprisingly been found that the addition of at least one specific hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer in cosmetic compositions for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, in improved care, in particular improved combing, with minimal color shift of ΔΕ <2, in particular ΔΕ <1 result.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic agent for changing the color of keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

a) at least one coloring compound selected from the group of oxidation dye precursors, substantive dyes and mixtures thereof, b) at least one hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (I)

where A = (Si04 / 2) k (R SiO3 / 2) m (R2SiO2 / 2) _P (R3SiOi / 2) q (02 / 2SiR - (CH2) xB- (CH2) y-

NH2) s (Ol / 2 SiR ² R - (CH2) r xB (CH2) y-NH ₂₎

wherein

a is an integer from 1 to 20,000, where, if a> 2, the respective values k, m, p, q, s and r in a structural element A can each be selected independently of preceding structural elements A,

R and R ² , in each case independently of one another, represent hydrogen, an OH group, a linear or branched C 1 -C 12 -alkyl group, a phenyl group or a vinyl group,

B is an oxygen atom, an NH group or sulfur,

x and y, each independently, are integers from 1 to 10,

t stands for integers from 1 to 5, and

the sum of k + m + p + q + s + r stands for integers of 3 to 20,000.

The term "color change" according to the invention, the change in the natural color of keratinic fibers and the change in the color of already colored keratinischen To understand fibers. The color change may consist of a brightening, a darkening or a change in hue.

Furthermore, according to the invention, the term "keratinic fibers or else keratin fibers" is understood to mean furs, wool, feathers and human hairs Within the scope of the present invention, it is particularly preferred if the cosmetic compositions are used for dyeing human hair.

In the context of the present invention, the term "hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers" is understood to mean silicone polymers which have at least one optionally protonated amine group of the formula -NH 2 and are terminated at one end of the siloxane backbone with a hydroxy group Siloxane backbone terminated with a hydroxy group.

In addition, the term "combability" in the context of the present invention means both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.

In addition, the term "fatty alcohols" in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning aliphatic, long-chain, monohydric, primary alcohols which have unbranched hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms The hydrocarbon radicals may be saturated but also mono- or polyunsaturated.

Finally, the term "fatty acids" in the context of the present invention is understood as meaning aliphatic monocarboxylic acids with unbranched carbon chain which have hydrocarbon radicals having 6 to 30 carbon atoms The hydrocarbon radicals can be either saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated.

The indication of the total amount in relation to the components of the cosmetic product relates in the present case-unless stated otherwise-to the total amount of active substance of the respective component. Furthermore, the statement of the total amount with respect to the components of the cosmetic product according to the invention, unless stated otherwise, refers to the total weight of the oxidant-free cosmetic product according to the invention.

The agents according to the invention contain a cosmetic carrier. According to the invention, the cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. In the context of the present invention, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair can be used.

An aqueous carrier in the sense of the invention contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions comprising at least one C 1 -C 4 -alcohol in a total amount of from 3 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in particular ethanol or isopropanol , The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents such as methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents, the solvent in a total amount of 0, 1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 1 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 2 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of cosmetic agent, is included.

The cosmetic agent according to the invention contains as the first essential component a) a coloring compound selected from the group of oxidation dye precursors (OFV), substantive dyes (DZ) and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise at least one oxidation dye precursor.

Due to their reaction behavior, oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories, the so-called developer components and coupler components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves. They may therefore be included as sole compounds in the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention contain at least one type of oxidation dye precursor of the developer type. However, it can also be provided in the context of the present invention that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor. Particularly good results with respect to the coloring of keratinous fibers are obtained when the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.

The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use their salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides, hydrobromides or sulfates.

According to the invention, cosmetic agents are preferred which contain the developer and / or coupler components in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. , in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it comprises at least one oxidation dye precursor of the developer and / or coupler type in each case in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains.

Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are, for example, p-phenylenediamine and its derivatives. Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group which is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloropiphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethylbenzenediamine. p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p- phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine and N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

It may further be preferred according to the invention to use as developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups. Preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethyl-phenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, preferably from 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts. A preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts. As pyrazolopyrimidines in particular pyrazolo [1, 5-a] pyrimidines are preferred.

Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are selected from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine,

2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) - N- [3- (1 H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxy-ethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1, 3 diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane, 1, 3-bis (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis ( 4-aminophenyl) -1, 4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1, 4J, 10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino

3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-amino-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1, 2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (2 -hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine or the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

Particularly preferred developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H - Imidazol-1 -yl) -propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts. According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent according to the invention as oxidation dye precursor additionally contains, in addition to at least one developer component, additionally at least one coupler component. As coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.

Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from

(A) m-Aminophenol and its derivatives, in particular 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- ( 2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,

(B) o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-5-ethylphenol,

(C) m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2 '-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol and 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} -amino) ethanol,

(D) o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives,

(E) di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives, in particular resorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene,

(F) pyridine derivatives, in particular 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5-diamino 2,6-dimethoxy-pyridine,

(G) naphthalene derivatives, such as 1-naphthol and 2-methyl-1-naphthol,

(H) morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine,

(I) quinoxaline derivatives,

(J) pyrazole derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,

(K) Indole derivatives, such as 6-hydroxyindole,

(L) pyrimidine derivatives or

(M) Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Coupler components preferred according to the invention are selected from the group formed from 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4 -chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl ) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2- Methyl resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1, 2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5- Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4- Hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.

Particularly preferred coupler components according to the invention are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diamino-phenoxy) propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 1-naphthol and their physiologically acceptable salts.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component selected from the group of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino p-phenylenediamine, 1, 3- bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4 ^{'aminophenyl)} amino] -propan-2-ol, 1, 10-bis (2', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1, 4, 7,10-tetraoxadecane, 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6 -triaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof, and at least one coupler component selected from the group of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methyl-resorcinol, 2 , 5-dimethylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 5-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-4-chloro-2-meth ylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2 ^{'-hydroxyethyl)} amino-anisolsulfat, 1, 3- Bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2 , 6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 1, 5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-bis - [(2 ^' -hydroxyethyl) amino] -toluene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof.

In order to obtain a balanced and subtle nuance formation, it can also be provided in the context of the present invention that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one substantive dye. Direct dyes are dyes that are applied directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the dye. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.

Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.

Preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain at least one substantive dye which is selected from the group of Nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols, preferably from the group of known under the international names or trade names dyes HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 1, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52 , HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9 , Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52, and 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (β-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitrobenzene. 4- (β-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2- (2-

Hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2- Hydroxy-1, 4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

Furthermore, as direct dyes also occurring in nature dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.

The cosmetic agent according to the invention preferably contains the at least one substantive dye in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight. , in particular from 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As a second essential component b), the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one specific hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer. The addition of this silicone polymer leads to improved care, especially wet combability, but without causing color shift visible to the human eye, i. H. the color change ΔΕ caused by the addition of the special silicone polymers is less than 2, in particular less than 1.

It has proved to be advantageous according to the invention if, in the formula (I), the radicals R and B represent certain groups. It is therefore preferred that in the formula (I) the radical R is a methyl group and B is an NH group.

In addition, it is preferred in the context of the present invention if the hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (I) contains a certain number of OH groups and is provided with a specific amine function. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are therefore characterized in that in the formula (I) x is the integer 3, y the integer 2 and t the integer 1 or 2.

Particularly good results in the context of the present invention are obtained if the silicone polymer of the formula (I) contains specific siloxane units and certain siloxanes functionalized with amine groups. In this context, silicone polymers of the formula (I) which are terminated at both ends of the siloxane backbone with a hydroxy group. It is therefore particularly preferred according to the invention if the hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (I) used is a hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (Ia)

with A = (R 2 SiO 2/2) p (O 2 / 2SiR - (CH 2) x B - (CH 2) y -NH ₂ ) s

wherein

a is an integer from 1 to 1,000, where, if a> 2, the respective values p and s in a structural element A can each be selected independently of preceding structural elements A,

R is a methyl group,

B is an NH group,

x stands for the integer 3,

y stands for the integer 2,

t stands for the integer 1 or 2, in particular for the integer 2,

p stands for integers from 8 to 1,000, and

s stands for integers from 1 to 800.

The use of the above-mentioned hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers of the formula (Ia) in cosmetic agents for dyeing keratinic fibers leads to a particularly high care performance, in particular to a particularly good wet combability, at the same time only minimal color shift of ΔΕ less than 2, in particular less than 1 ,

However, in the context of the present invention it may also be preferred to use silicone polymers of the formula (I) which are terminated at only one end of the siloxane backbone with a hydroxy group and at the other end of the siloxane backbone with an amine group. These embodiments are characterized in that the hydroxyl-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (I) used is a hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (Ib)

where A = (R 2 SiO 2/2) p (Oi / 2SiR R ² - (CH 2) x B - (CH ² ) y -NH ₂ ) r

wherein

a is an integer from 1 to 1,000, where, if a> 2, the respective values p and r in a structural element A can each be selected independently of preceding structural elements A,

R and R ² each represent a methyl group,

B is an NH group,

x stands for the integer 3,

y stands for the integer 2,

t stands for the integer 1 or 2, in particular for the integer 1,

p stands for integers from 8 to 1,000, and r stands for integers from 1 to 800.

The use of the above-mentioned hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers of the formula (Ib) in cosmetic agents for coloring keratinic fibers also leads to a particularly high care performance, in particular to a particularly good wet combability, with only minimal color shift of ΔΕ smaller than 2, in particular smaller than 1.

It may be advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic agents contain, as hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (I), at least one silicone polymer of the formula (Ia) and at least one silicone polymer of the formula (Ib).

It is of advantage in accordance with the invention that at least one hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer b) is used in certain quantitative ranges. Preferred embodiments of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains the at least one hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer b) in a total amount of from 0.001 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 4.0% by weight. %, preferably from 0.1 to 3.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of cosmetic agent. The total amounts given here relate to the total amount of hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers of the formula (I) and / or of the formula (Ia) and / or of the formula (Ib). The use of the aforementioned total amount of the specific hydroxyl-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer leads to increased care of the keratinic fibers, but without influencing the dyeing result in the form of a visible color shift.

It has been found that an addition of polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl ether can stabilize the at least one hydroxyl-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer, in particular the hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers of the formulas (Ia) and / or (Ib) in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention that the nursing effects are further strengthened. Therefore, cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention additionally contain polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl ethers in a total amount of 0.00001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.8% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 Wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.4 wt .-%, in particular from 0, 1 to 0.3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain further active ingredients and additives. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) thickeners; (ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (iii) surfactants, especially amphoteric surfactants; (iv) alkalizing agents; (v) oils; and (vi) their mixtures.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are preferably formulated as flowable preparations. The cosmetic products should be formulated in such a way that they can be applied and distributed well on the one hand, but on the other hand they are sufficiently viscous so that they remain at the site of action during the exposure time and do not run away. It has therefore proved to be advantageous according to the invention if the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one thickener selected from the group of (i) anionic, synthetic polymers; (ii) cationic synthetic polymers; (iii) naturally occurring thickeners, such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; (iv) nonionic synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; (v) inorganic thickening agents, especially phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite; and (vi) mixtures thereof, in a total amount of from 0.0005 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 1.0% by weight, especially from 0.008 to 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent.

In this connection, it is particularly preferred if at least one naturally occurring thickener, in particular xanthan gum and salts thereof, in a total amount of from 0.0005 to 5.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1.0% by weight, is used as thickener. , preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is contained.

In the context of the present invention, it may be preferred if the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having 8 to 20 carbon atoms is selected from the group of myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), cetearyl alcohol, 2-octyldodecanol , Arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -eicosa-5,8,1 1, 14-tetraen-1-ol), preferably 2-octyldodecanol and / or cetearyl alcohol, and in a total amount of 1, 0 to 35 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 10 to 25 Wt .-%, in particular from 12 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, is included.

The cosmetic agents according to the invention may preferably further comprise at least one partial ester of a polyol having 2 to 6 carbon atoms and linear saturated carboxylic acids having 12 to 30, in particular 14 to 22, carbon atoms, wherein the partial esters may be hydroxylated, in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Such partial esters are in particular the mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol or the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol, each with linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which hydroxylates in particular those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of C12-C30 linear saturated carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids and the like Methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated C 12 -C 30 -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated. In the context of the present invention, it may be provided that the inventive cosmetic agents at least one polyol partial ester selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate, glycerol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol monopalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate and mixtures thereof, in particular mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate and glycerol dipalmitate in a total amount of from 0.5 to 10% by weight. %, in particular from 3.0 to 8.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The use of the abovementioned alcohols, partial esters and polypartial esters in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be particularly preferred when the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are present in the form of a cream-form oil-in-water emulsion.

Furthermore, it can be provided according to the invention that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one surfactant. Surfactants for the purposes of the present invention are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic moiety. A basic property of surfactants and emulsifiers is the oriented adsorption at interfaces as well as the aggregation into micelles and the formation of lyotropic phases.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic compositions of the invention contain at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁽⁾ or -SO 3 ⁽⁾ group.

As amphoteric surfactants, the following compounds are particularly preferred in the context of the present invention:

Alkylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

Amidopropylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group,

- Sulfobetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group, and

- Amphoacetates or amphodiacetates having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents according to the invention contain as surfactant at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from amidopropylbetaines having 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the acyl group, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular of 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. Furthermore, it can be provided that the cosmetic compositions according to the invention at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.5 to 6.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. It has proved to be particularly advantageous if the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant has an HLB value above 10, preferably above 13. For this purpose, it is necessary that the nonionic surfactant has a sufficiently high degree of ethoxylation. In this As a result, the cosmetic agent according to the invention therefore contains, as the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, at least one ethoxylated surfactant having at least 12 ethylene oxide units. In addition to the correspondingly ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, the addition products of 20 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil are particularly suitable according to the invention. The at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth- 30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth- 30 and Ceteareth-30.

Cosmetic agents in the context of the present invention generally have a basic pH, preferably between pH 8.0 and pH 12, in particular between pH 9.0 to pH 11. These pHs are required to ensure opening of the outer cuticle (cuticle) and to allow penetration of the oxidation dye precursors and / or the oxidizing agent into the hair.

The adjustment of the aforementioned pH can preferably be carried out using at least one alkalizing agent. In the context of the present invention, the alkalizing agent is selected from the group of (i) inorganic alkalizing agents; (ii) organic alkalizing agents; and (iii) mixtures thereof, and in a total amount of from 1.5 to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 8.5% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 8.0% by weight. %, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, ie aqueous solutions of ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate and mixtures thereof. Ammonia or ammonium hydroxide is a particularly preferred alkalizing agent. Particularly preferred is ammonia in a total amount of 0, 1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 7.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic By means of, included.

Preferred organic alkalizing agents are selected from at least one alkanolamine. Alkanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-amino-butan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl propanol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1, 2- diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, N, N-dimethyl-ethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethanolamine and triisopropanolamine. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1, 3 diol and triethanolamine. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise a mixture of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1ol. Preferably, the at least one alkanolamine in a total amount of 0.05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. Further inventively preferred organic alkalizing agents are selected from basic amino acids, more preferably selected from the group which is formed from L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine and Mixtures thereof. Basic amino acids which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from L-arginine, D-arginine and D / L-arginine. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise at least one alkalizing agent other than alkanolamines and ammonia in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent ,

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents according to the invention comprise, as alkalizing agents, a mixture of at least two different alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, in a total amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight. , preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferably, the pH of the cosmetic compositions of the invention, measured at 22 ° C, 8 to 13, preferably 9.5 to 12, preferably 10 to 1 1, 5, in particular 10.5 to 1 1.

In the context of the present invention, it may further be preferred if the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one oil selected from the group of sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil and theirs Mixtures, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic By means of, included. By using a previously mentioned oil, the care effect of the hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymers can be further increased.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain grape seed oil in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

In the following tables, particularly preferred embodiments AF 1 to AF 96 of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are listed (all data in% by weight, unless stated otherwise): AF 1 AF 2 AF 3 AF 4

Coloring compound 0.001 - 10 0.01 -8.0 0.1 -5.0 0.5-3.0

Silicone polymer of the formula (I) 0.001-5.0 0.05-4.0 0.5-3.0 1.0-2.0

Cosmetic Carrier ⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100

AF 37 AF 38 AF39 AF 40

Coloring compound 0.001 - 10 0.01 -8.0 0.1 -5.0 0.5-3.0

Silicone polymer of the formula (Ia) 0.001 -5.0 0.05-4.0 0.5-3.0 1.0-2.0

Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl ether 0.003-1.5 0.006-1.1 0.009-0.8 0.015-0.3 Cosmetic Carrier ⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100

AF 69 AF 70 AF71 AF 72

Coloring compound ²⁾ 0.001 - 10 0.01 -8.0 0.1 -5.0 0.5-3.0

Silicone polymer of the formula (Ib) 0.001 -5.0 0.05-4.0 0.5-3.0 1.0-2.0

Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl ether 0.003-1.5 0.006-1.1 0.009-0.8 0.015-0.3 Alkalizing agent ⁴⁾ 0.05-15 0.5-10 1.5-8.0 3.5-7.5

Cosmetic Carrier ⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100

AF 93 AF 94 AF95 AF 96

Coloring compound ²⁾ 0.001 - 10 0.01 -8.0 0.1 -5.0 0.5-3.0

Silicone polymer of the formulas (Ia) and 0.001-5.0 0.05-4.0 0.5-3.0 1.0-2.0 (lb) Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl ether 0.003-1.5 0.006-1.1 0.009-0.8 0.015-0.3

Alkalizing agent ⁴⁾ 0.05 - 15 0.5 - 10 1, 5 - 8.0 3.5 - 7.5

Thickener ⁵⁾ 0.0005 -5.0 0.001-3.0 0.005-1.0-0.0-0.1

Linear C ₈ -C ₂ o alcohol ⁶ > 5.0 to 25 8.0 to 20 10 to 18 12 to 16

Cosmetic carrier ⁾ Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100) aqueous cosmetic carrier

²⁾ colorant selected from a mixture of developer and coupler type oxidation dye precursors and / or substantive dyes,

³⁾ in the formula (I) R is methyl, B is NH, x is the integer 3, y is the integer 2 and t is the integer 1 or 2,

⁴⁾ Mixture of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol

⁵⁾ thickener is selected from xanthan gum and its salts, in particular its sodium salt,

⁶⁾ Linear C8-C20 alcohol is selected from 2-octyldodecanol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof

The embodiments AF 57 to AF 96 have a pH of 9.5 to 1 1. Furthermore, it can be provided that the embodiments AF 1 to AF 94 an oxidizing agent in the form of hydrogen peroxide in an amount of 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 25 to 7 wt .-%, in particular of 1, 5 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the respective embodiment included. The calculation of the total amount refers to 100%

The above-described embodiments 1 to 94 of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention result in an excellent care performance when coloring keratinic fibers due to the use of the at least one hydroxy-terminated, aminated silicone polymer of the formula (I) and / or (Ib) Wet combability while avoiding visible color shift, d. H. a ΔΕ value of less than 2, in particular less than 1. Oxidative staining compositions may also be prepared directly prior to use from two or more separately packaged compositions. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction. Separation into multicomponent systems is particularly preferred where incompatibilities of the ingredients are to be expected or feared. The oxidative coloring composition in these cases is prepared by the consumer just prior to use by mixing the components. In the context of the present invention, this procedure is particularly preferred for oxidative colorants in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is initially present separately from an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.

A further subject of the present invention is therefore a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent according to the invention (M1), and

b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) which contains at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

The use of the at least one hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer in combination with certain amounts of oxidizing agent surprisingly results in increased care when using the aforementioned packaging unit for producing cosmetic compositions for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular in increased wet combability, but without the addition of the nonionic silicone polymer, a color shift of ΔΕ> 2, in particular of ΔΕ> 1, visible to the human eye occurs. In the context of the present invention, the term "container" is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally resealable bottle, tube, can, sachet, sachet or similar wrappings However, these are enclosures made of glass or plastic.

The oxidizing agents in the present invention are different from atmospheric oxygen. As the oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products to organic and inorganic compounds can be used. Suitable solid addition products according to the invention are, in particular, the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and also sodium borate. Hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds are particularly preferred as the oxidizing agent. According to the invention, the oxidizing agent is therefore preferably selected from the group of persulfates, chlorites, hydrogen peroxide and adducts of hydrogen peroxide with urea, melamine and sodium borate, in particular hydrogen peroxide. A particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.75 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 1 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 25 to 7 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 5 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), is included. The calculation of the total amount refers to 100% H2O2.

The oxidizing agent preparations (M2) may further comprise water in a total amount of from 40 to 98% by weight, in particular from 65 to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) furthermore comprise at least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 16 to 22 carbon atoms, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0, 5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Preferred are in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, such as are obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids. Most preferably, the mixture is cetearyl alcohol.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) contain at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, cetetheter-12, ceteth-20, steareth -20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and Ceteareth-30, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 wt. -%, In particular from 1 to 4.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

In the context of the present invention, it may furthermore be provided that the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) comprise at least one ester of a carboxylic acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms and a linear or branched alcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular isopropyl myristate, in a total amount of 3 , 0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 8.0 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) contain, based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparations (M2),

- At least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt. -%, Farther

at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and ceteareth-30, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 4.0 wt .-%, such as

at least one ester of a carboxylic acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms and a linear or branched alcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably isopropyl myristate, in a total amount of 3.0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 20 wt. -%, in particular from 8.0 to 15 wt .-%.

The oxidizing agent preparations (M2) according to the invention also contain at least one acid. Preferred acids are selected from dipicolinic acid, edible acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, pyrophosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, as well as mixtures thereof. These acids are necessary to set an acidic pH of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). It is therefore preferred if the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) have a pH in the range from 2 to 5, in particular from 3 to 4.

For the preparation of oxidative dyeing compositions from the packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention, the cosmetic agent (M1) according to the invention in the container (C1) is mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in the container (C2) or vice versa. In this connection, it is preferred according to the invention if the mixing ratio of the cosmetic agent (M1) to the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) is from 4: 1 to 1: 4, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, in particular from 2: 1 to 1: 2.

Furthermore, it can be particularly advantageous according to the invention if the packaging unit contains at least one further hair treatment agent in an additional container, in particular a conditioning agent preparation. This conditioner composition advantageously contains at least one conditioning agent selected from the group of cationic polymers, silicone derivatives and oils. In addition, the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes, Applicetten or brush, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use. An applicette is understood to mean a broad brush, on whose end of the stem there is a tip, which allows and simplifies the division of fiber bundles out of the total amount of fibers.

Regarding the cosmetic agent (M1) according to the invention in the container (C1) and the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) in the container (C2), what has been said about the cosmetic agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

A further subject matter of the present invention is a process for dyeing keratinic fibers with increased care while simultaneously minimizing color shift, the process comprising the following process steps in the order given:

a) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) according to the invention,

b) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid, c) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), d) applying the mixture obtained in step c) the keratinic fibers and leaving this mixture for a time of 10 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 ° C on the keratinic fibers,

e) rinsing the keratinic fibers with water and / or a cleansing composition for 1 to 5 minutes, and

f) optionally applying an aftertreatment agent to the keratinic fibers and rinsing after a time of 1 to 10 minutes.

The inventive method for coloring keratinic fibers using a specific hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer results in improved care of dyed keratinic fibers, without being affected by the addition of the special hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer to a visible with the human eye undesirable color shift of ΔΕ> 2, in particular ΔΕ> 1 comes.

In the context of the present invention, ambient temperature, which prevails without the action of external heat and is preferably from 10 to 39 ° C., is understood as room temperature. The effect of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation can be enhanced by external heat, for example by means of a heat hood. The preferred exposure time of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation to the keratinic fiber is 10 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes. After completion of the exposure time, the remaining colorant is washed out of the keratinic fibers by means of a cleaning preparation, which preferably contains at least one cationic and / or anionic and / or nonionic surfactant, and / or water. If necessary, the process is repeated with a further cleaning preparations. After washing, the keratinic fibers are optionally rinsed with an aftertreatment agent, such as a conditioner, and dried with a towel or a hot air blower. The application of the dyeing preparation is usually done by hand by the user. Personal protective clothing is preferably worn here, in particular suitable protective gloves, for example made of plastic or latex for single use (disposable gloves) and optionally an apron. But it is also possible to apply the colorants with an application aid on the keratinic fibers.

According to the invention, the process steps a) to f) are preferably carried out with a time interval between the individual process steps of 0 to 60 minutes, preferably of 0 to 40 minutes, in particular of 0 to 30 minutes.

With respect to the cosmetic agent (M1) according to the invention, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) and further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, what has been said about the cosmetic agents according to the invention and the packaging unit according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

In addition, another object of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic agent according to the invention for increasing the care of keratinous fibers while minimizing the color shift. The use of cosmetic agents with a special hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer results in increased care of dyed keratinic fibers, without the addition of this conditioner leading to an undesirable color shift of ΔΕ> 2, in particular ΔΕ> 1, visible to the human eye.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic agents according to the invention, to the packaging unit according to the invention and to the method according to the invention.

Finally, a further subject of the present invention is the use of a packaging unit according to the invention (kit-of-parts) for producing a cosmetic agent for changing the color of keratinic fibers with increased care while minimizing color shift. The use of a conditioner in the form of a hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer in the packaging unit results in the production of colorants in an increased care dyed keratinischer fibers, without the addition of this care substance to an undesirable and visible to the human eye color shift of ΔΕ> 2, in particular ΔΕ> 1, leads.

The following examples are intended to illustrate preferred embodiments of the invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples:

1. recipes

Compositions of the cosmetic agents used (oil-in-water emulsions, all amounts in% by weight). The hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer used in the following formulations is preferably a silicone polymer of the formula (Ia) and / or (Ib).

^* according to the invention

^{** active} substance

a ⁾ INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulfate (BASF)

The fat base was melted together at 80 ° C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently, the remaining recipe ingredients were incorporated with stirring in order. It was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred cold. Formulation V1 is a comparative formulation not according to the invention without hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer. The formulations E1 and E2 are examples according to the invention.

Oxidizing agent preparation 01 (all amounts in% by weight) Raw material 01

Disodium pyrophosphate 0, 10

Dipicolinic acid 0, 10

Potassium hydroxide 50% 0.30

1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid 60% 40

Fatty alcohol sulfate C16-C18 sodium salt 0.30

Eumulgin RO 40 ^b> 0.60

Cetearyl Alcohol 3.6

Ceteareth-20 0.50

Beeswax 0.30

Isopropyl myristate 10

Hydrogen peroxide 50% 1 1

Water demineralized ad 100

> INCI name: PEG-40 Castor oil (BASF)

2. Slight color shift due to the addition of the hydroxy-terminated amine-functionalized silicone polymer

For the preparation of the oxidative colorants for determining the color shift, the cosmetic agents V1 and E1 and E2 were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the above oxidizing agent preparation 01.

The oxidative dyes prepared in this manner were each applied in defined amounts (4 g oxidative dye per 1 g Yakhaar) to Yakhaar streaks (12 streaks per oxidative stain) and remained on the hair tresses for a period of 30 minutes at 32 ° C , The remaining remedies were then rinsed with lukewarm water from the hair strands for 2 minutes, the strands first dried with a towel and then dry-blown.

All tresses were measured with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450. The values ΔΕ used for the assessment of color shift result from the L ^* a ^* b color measurement values measured at the respective strand as follows:

ΔΕ = ((Li-Lo) ² + (ai-ao) ² + (bi-bo) ² ) ' ²

ao, bo and Lo are in each case the mean values of the color measurement values of the Yakhaar streaks stained using V1, which are determined from the 12 measurements. and Li respectively represent the average values of the colorimetric values obtained for Yakhaar streaked streaks using E1 and E2, respectively.

The greater the value for ΔΕ, the more pronounced is the color difference or "color shift." Color differences with ΔE <1 are imperceptible to the human eye, and differences in color with ΔΕ <2 are visible to the trained eye The Δ nach values for the colorations using the cosmetic compositions E1 and E2 are shown in comparison with V1 in the following table: The colorations with the cosmetic compositions E1 and E2 according to the invention which contain at least one specific hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized Silicon in a total amount of 0.70 wt .-% or 1, 4 Wt .-%, have only a slight color shift of ΔΕ <2, which are not visible to the untrained eye. The color shift, which is caused by the special silicone polymer, is the smaller, the greater the amount of hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer used.

3. Improved care

For the preparation of the oxidative colorants for determining care, the cosmetic agents V1, E1 and E2 were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the above oxidizing agent preparation 01.

12 strands of naturally light brown European hair (IHIP (New York), lot # 03/2012, N104, length 15 cm, weight 1 g) were washed with an aqueous sodium lauryl ether sulfate solution (3% active substance content in the solution). The tresses were air-dried and stored for 24 h at 25 ° C and 25% relative humidity. After soaking these strands for 5 minutes in water, their wet combability was determined (reference value).

For the dyeings, 12 strands each of natural European hair (IHIP (New York), lot # 03/2012, N104, length 15 cm, weight 1 g) were used per oxidative dye. For this purpose, in each case 4 g of the oxidative dyeing agents prepared per 1 g of hair strand were applied. After streaks were dyed at 32 ° C for 30 minutes, they were rinsed with water for 2 minutes and air dried.

The measurement of wet combability was carried out as follows:

Before the measurement, each tress was moistened with combing with a hard rubber crest with fine teeth (Hercules Sägemann, Hamburg Germany) for 2 seconds with water. After 3 combing operations have been performed, the combing force is measured during a further 10 combing operations, whereby the respective hair strand rotates slowly during the combing process. The resulting measurements are compared using the following statistical tests embedded in Statistica 10.0 software (StatSoft Inc., USA):

Shapiro-Wilks test (test for normal distribution)

Outlier test after Grubbs

Bartlett test (test for homoscedasticity of variances)

Univariant significance test

Newman-Keuls test (determination of significant differences)

Unequal N HSD test (multi-comparison test).

The change in the combing force dK in percent can be calculated using the formula dK = [(Ko-Ki) / Ko] ^* 100. Ko is the average of the combing power for the undyed hair strands and Ki is the mean value for the hair strands treated with the respective oxidative coloring agent. The care of the strands of hair is the higher, the lower the combing force applied and thus the higher the change in the combing force. The following table shows the dK values for the colorations using the cosmetic agents V1, E1 and E2. The coloration with the inventive cosmetic compositions E1 and E2, which contain at least one specific hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer in a total amount of 0.70 or 1.4% by weight, compared to a coloration without hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer (V1 ) a higher change in the combing force and thus increased care.

Claims

claims:

A cosmetic composition for modifying keratinous fibers comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

NH2) s (Ol / 2 SiR ² R - (CH2) r xB (CH2) y-NH ₂₎

wherein

B is an oxygen atom, an NH group or sulfur,

x and y, each independently, are integers from 1 to 10, t is integers from 1 to 5, and

the sum of k + m + p + q + s + r stands for integers of 3 to 20,000.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that in the formula (I) the radical R is a methyl group and B is an NH group.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that in the formula (I) x is the integer 3, y is the integer 2 and t is the integer 1 or 2.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that is used as hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (I) is a hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (la)

with A = (R 2 SiO 2/2) p (O 2 / 2SiR - (CH 2) x B - (CH 2) y -NH ₂ ) s

wherein

a stands for integers from 1 to 1, 000, where, if a> 2, the respective values p and s in a structural element A can each be selected independently of preceding structural elements A,

R is a methyl group, B is an NH group,

x is the integer 3, y is the integer 2,

t stands for the integer 1 or 2, in particular for the integer 2,

p stands for integers from 8 to 1, 000, and

s stands for integers from 1 to 800.

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that is used as the hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (I) is a hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer of the formula (Ib)

where A = (R 2 SiO 2/2) p (Oi / 2SiR R ² - (CH 2) x B - (CH ² ) y -NH ₂ ) r

wherein

R and R ² each represent a methyl group, B represents an NH group,

x is the integer 3, y is the integer 2,

t stands for the integer 1 or 2, in particular for the integer 1,

p stands for integers from 8 to 1,000, and r stands for integers from 1 to 800.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent, the at least one hydroxy-terminated, amine-functionalized silicone polymer b) in a total amount of 0.001 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 4.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0, 1 to 3.5 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the cosmetic product contains.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent additionally polyoxyethylene (10) -tridecylether in a total amount of 0.003 to 1, 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.006 to 1, 1 wt .-%, preferably from 0.009 to 0.8 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.015 to 0.3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition contains.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic agent additionally comprises at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) thickeners; (ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (iii) surfactants, especially amphoteric surfactants; (iv) alkalizing agents; (v) oils; and (vi) their mixtures.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that as a thickener at least one naturally occurring thickener, in particular xanthan gum and its salts, in a total amount of 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is included.

Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 8 or 9, characterized in that as surfactant at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from amidopropylbetaines having 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the acyl group, in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-% , in particular from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is included.

1 1. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 8 to 10, characterized in that as alkalizing a mixture of at least two mutually different alkanolamines, in particular of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, in a total amount of 0, 05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is included.

12. Packing unit (kit-of-parts), comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic product (M1) according to one of the items 1 to 1 1, and

13. A method for dyeing keratinischen fibers with increased care while minimizing color shift, the method comprising the following steps in the order given:

a) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) according to one of claims 1 to 1 1 b) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid, c) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with d) applying the mixture obtained in step c) to the keratinic fibers and leaving this mixture for a time of 10 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 ° C. on the keratinic fibers, e) rinsing the keratinic fibers with water and / or a cleansing composition for 1 to 5 minutes, and

14. Use of a cosmetic agent according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 for increasing the care of keratinous fibers while minimizing the color shift.

15. Use of a packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to claim 12 for the preparation of a cosmetic agent for color change keratinischer fibers with increased care while minimizing color shift.