DE102015225561A1 - Hair dye with cationic phospholipid and polydimethylsiloxane - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic agent for coloring keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing a specific active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants and at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or a direct dye, wherein the use of the specific combination of active ingredients to an improved Wash fastness of the dyed keratinic fibers at the same time extremely low color shift leads.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratinic fibers with a cationic phospholipid. Further, the invention comprises a kit-of-parts and methods for coloring keratinic fibers with the cosmetic agent.

Human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. Apart from the bleaching agents, which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair color change, the oxidative hair coloring is essential.

For permanent, intensive dyeings with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components, the actual dyes. The oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results. For naturally acting dyeings, however, it is usually necessary to use a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors (OFV); In many cases, direct dyes (DZ) are still used for shading.

For the most part, oxidative colorants for stabilizing the dye precursors during storage and for accelerating the reaction during the oxidative application have an alkaline pH adjusted with alkalizing agents, such as alkanolamines, ammonia or inorganic bases.

The abovementioned oxidation dye precursors (OFV) and alkalizing agents are usually incorporated in a cosmetically suitable carrier, for example a cream or a gel. The carrier ensures a homogeneous distribution and a sufficient residence time of the colorant on the hair.

Commercial oxidation stains are commonly formulated into product series that include a standardized carrier that can be combined as fully as possible with the nuance-specific OFV combination and alkalizing agents.

Consumers can usually obtain the coloring of the hair that can be achieved with a hair dye from an indication on the packaging of the hair dye and / or a color chart enclosed in the packaging. For the consumer, it is very important that the result of the dyeing match as closely as possible with the color specified by the manufacturer.

The result of the staining does not depend solely on the combination of OFV used and, where appropriate, DZ, but is also influenced by the ingredients of the carrier. For example, the dyes formed or directly used in the course of color development under the influence of the oxidizing agent can have a distinctly different absorption capacity onto the fiber; also the carrier ingredients can act differently on each dye.

Hair dyes are therefore extensively and extensively tested for their achievable color and for a variety of application properties prior to market introduction. These tests only consider the interactions between the OFV and the carrier for a specific carrier. On the part of the manufacturers there is a regular desire to tailor a hair dye series specifically to the specific needs of certain consumer groups by adding appropriate active ingredients or conditioners to the standardized carrier. For consumers with more damaged hair, for example, the addition of one or more care ingredients with hair repairing effect would be recommended; for consumers with fine hair, the addition of one or more of the hair structure strengthening agents would be recommended, while an addition of too much conditioning agent would further complain the hair.

An important aspect for consumers, especially consumers who dye their hair in fashionable nuances, is the washfastness of the dye. Thus, by the cleaning / shampooing of the dyed hair no visible color change should occur. Accordingly, it is desirable to increase the wash fastness of hair dyes by additives.

However, the addition of such additives may lead to differences between the hair coloration achieved with the additive-free (standard) carrier and the carrier containing the additive. Such color differences are referred to in the context of the present application as "color shift". This color shift, also referred to as dE or ΔE, can be determined colorimetrically well with a colorimeter, with which the colors in the L *, a *, b * color space are measured, for example with a colorimeter from the company Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450 ,

The L *, a *, b * color space is understood to mean the CIELAB color space. The L value stands for the brightness of the color (black and white axis); the larger the value for L, the lighter the coloration. The a value stands for the red-green axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to red. The b value stands for the yellow-blue axis of the system; the larger this value is, the more the color is shifted to yellow.

The color shift ΔE, ie the color difference between two (hair) colors, for each of which an L *, a *, b * value combination was determined, is calculated according to the following formula: ΔE = (ΔL ² + Δa ² + Δb ² ) ^0.5

The larger the value for ΔE, the more pronounced is the color difference or "color shift". Color differences with ΔE <1 are imperceptible to the human eye. Color differences with ΔE <2 are visible to the trained eye. Color differences with ΔE> 2 are also visible to the untrained eye.

In the worst case, the addition of an additive to a colorant carrier causes a color shift with respect to the additive-free carrier (standard) with ΔE> 2, which is also visible to the untrained eye of the consumer. In order to avoid the need to carry out costly tests with regard to hair coloration and, where appropriate, fastness properties to be achieved with each additive change of the standard carrier, it is therefore desirable to identify active ingredients and hair conditioners whose addition would result in no or at least slight color shift causes.

From the DE 4408506 A1 is a hair dye with tris- (3-N, N-dimethyl-N-linolenamidopropyl-2-hydroxy-ammoniumpropyl) -phosphorsäureestertrichlorid (trade name: phospholipid EFA), which gives the hair during and after the dyeing process advantageous properties known. Phospholipid EFA increases the wash fastness of dyed hair, but also leads to a color shift (ΔE> 2) that can be recognized by the untrained eye.

It is an object of the present application to provide cosmetic agents for the color change of keratinic fibers containing a cationic phospholipid, which have an improved wash fastness and cause no or only minimal color shift.

It has now surprisingly been found that the addition of at least two special nonionic surfactants and a polydimethylsiloxane in phospholipid-containing cosmetic agent for dyeing keratinic fibers, especially human hair, to improved wash fastness, while minimizing color shift of ΔE <2 leads.

• a) mindestens eine Verbindung, ausgewählt aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukten, direktziehenden Farbstoffen und deren Mischungen,
• b) mindestens ein kationisches Phospholipid der Formel KPL
  
  in der R¹ eine Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen oder eine Acylaminoalkylgruppe der Formel R⁵CONH(CH₂)_m- ist, worin R⁵CO eine lineare Acylgruppe mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen und m = 2 oder 3 ist, R² und R³ Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen oder Hydroxyalkylgruppen mit 2 bis 4 C-Atomen oder Carboxyalkylgruppen der Formel -(CH₂)_z-COOM sind, worin z einen Wert von 1 bis 3 hat und M Wasserstoff oder ein Alkalimetallkation ist, x einen Wert von 1 bis 3 und y einen Wert von (3 – x) hat, M Wasserstoff oder ein Alkalimetallkation ist und A^– ein Anion ist,
• c) ein Polydimethylsiloxan,
• d) ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (I) CH₃(CH₂)_n(OCH₂CH₂)_xOH (I), wobei n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 9 und 21 und x eine ganze Zahl ≥ 20 ist und
• e) einen Polyethylenglycolether einer Mischung von synthetischen Fettalkoholen mit einem durchschnittlichen Ethoxylierungsgrad ≤ 7.

A first subject of the invention is a cosmetic agent for the color change of keratinic fibers, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier

• a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, substantive dyes and mixtures thereof,
• b) at least one cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL
  
  in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms or an acylaminoalkyl group of the formula R ⁵ CONH (CH ₂ ) _m -, wherein R ⁵ CO is a linear acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and m = 2 or 3, R ² and R ^{3 are} alkyl groups having 1 to 4 C atoms or hydroxyalkyl groups having 2 to 4 C atoms or carboxyalkyl groups of the formula - (CH ₂ ) _z -COOM, where z is 1 to 3 and M is hydrogen or an alkali metal cation, x is 1 to 3 and y is (3 - x), M is hydrogen or an alkali metal cation and A ^{- is} an anion,
• c) a polydimethylsiloxane,
• d) a nonionic surfactant of the formula (I) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) _n (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x OH (I), where n is an integer between 9 and 21 and x is an integer ≥ 20 and
• e) a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic fatty alcohols having an average degree of ethoxylation ≤ 7.

The term "keratin fibers or keratin fibers" means furs, wool, feathers and human hair. In the context of the present invention, it is particularly preferred if the cosmetic compositions are used for dyeing human hair.

The agents contain a cosmetic carrier. The cosmetic carrier is preferably aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. In the context of the present invention, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair can be used.

For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions comprising a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol in a total amount of from 3 to 90% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, in particular ethanol or isopropanol, to understand.

The compositions may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents, the solvent in a total amount of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 1 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 2 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

The cosmetic agent contains as the first essential component a) a compound selected from the group of oxidation dye precursors (OFV), substantive dyes (DZ) and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, means comprise at least one oxidation dye precursor.

Due to their reaction behavior, oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories, so-called developer components and coupler components. Developer components can form the actual dye with themselves. They may therefore be included as sole compounds in the cosmetic product. Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents will contain at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor. In the context of the present invention, however, it can also be provided that the cosmetic agents contain at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor. Particularly good results with respect to the coloring of keratinic fibers are obtained when the cosmetic compositions contain at least one developer type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler type oxidation dye precursor.

The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. In the case of substances having amino groups, however, it may be preferable to use their salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and hydrobromides or the sulfates.

Cosmetic agents are preferred which contain the developer and / or coupler components in a total amount of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. , in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition containing.

Suitable oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are, for example, p-phenylenediamine and its derivatives. Preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from one or more compounds of the group which is formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (2-hydroxypropyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyloxy) -p-phenylenediamine and N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and its physiologically acceptable salts.

It may also be preferred to use as the developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups. Preferred binuclear developer components are selected from N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diaminopropan-2-ol, N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, it may be preferable to use as developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred p-aminophenols are p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives, preferably from 2-amino-4-methylphenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-4-chlorophenol and / or their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives or their physiologically acceptable salts. Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts. A preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts. As pyrazolopyrimidines in particular pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyrimidines are preferred.

Preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are selected from the group formed from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (1,2-dihydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N, N-Bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H -imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine, N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis (2-hydroxy-5 -aminophenyl) methane, 1,3-bis- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) -propan-2-ol, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) -1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1,10-bis- (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-amino-methylphenol, 4-amino-2- (1,2 -dihydroxyethyl) phenol and 4-amino-2- (diethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6 triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine or the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.

Particularly preferred developer components are p-toluenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-) imidazol-1-yl) -propyl] amine, and / or 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts.

According to a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent as oxidation dye precursor additionally contains, in addition to at least one developer component, additionally at least one coupler component. As coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used.

• (A) m-Aminophenol und dessen Derivaten, insbesondere 3-Aminophenol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol und 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol,
• (B) o-Aminophenol und dessen Derivaten, wie 2-Amino-5-ethylphenol,
• (C) m-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivaten, wie beispielsweise 2,4-Diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-Bis-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 2,6-Bis-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol und 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}-amino)ethanol,
• (D) o-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivaten,
• (E) Di- beziehungsweise Trihydroxybenzolderivaten, insbesondere Resorcin, 2-Chlorresorcin, 4-Chlorresorcin, 2-Methylresorcin und 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol,
• (F) Pyridinderivaten, insbesondere 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin und 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxy-pyridin,
• (G) Naphthalinderivaten, wie 1-Naphthol und 2-Methyl-1-naphthol,
• (H) Morpholinderivaten, wie 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholin,
• (I) Chinoxalinderivaten,
• (J) Pyrazolderivaten, wie 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on,
• (K) Indolderivaten, wie 6-Hydroxyindol,
• (L) Pyrimidinderivaten oder
• (M) Methylendioxybenzolderivaten, wie 1-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol sowie deren physiologisch verträglichen Salze.

Preferred coupler components are selected from

• (A) m-Aminophenol and its derivatives, in particular 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- ( 2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,
• (B) o-aminophenol and its derivatives, such as 2-amino-5-ethylphenol,
• (C) m-Diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2 '-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol and 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol,
• (D) o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives,
• (E) di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives, in particular resorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
• (F) pyridine derivatives, in particular 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5-diamino 2,6-dimethoxy-pyridine,
• (G) naphthalene derivatives, such as 1-naphthol and 2-methyl-1-naphthol,
• (H) morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine,
• (I) quinoxaline derivatives,
• (J) pyrazole derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
• (K) Indole derivatives, such as 6-hydroxyindole,
• (L) pyrimidine derivatives or
• (M) Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Preferred coupler components are selected from the group consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4- chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1 , 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenyl) propane, 2,6-bis ( 2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2- ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino ] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,5-dimethylphenyl} amino) ethanol, 2- [3-morpholin-4-ylphenyl) amino] ethanol, 3-amino-4- (2-methoxyethoxy) -5-methylphenylamine, 1-amino-3-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4 Trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihyd roxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1, 7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or the physiologically acceptable salts of the abovementioned compounds.

Particularly preferred coupler components are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol, 2- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7- Dihydroxynaphthalene and 1-naphthol and their physiologically acceptable salts.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component selected from the group of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-p phenylenediamine, 1,3-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4'-aminophenyl) amino] -propan-2-ol, 1,10-bis (2 ', 5'-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7 , 10-tetraoxadecane, 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6 -triaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof, and at least one coupler component selected from the group of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2.5 Dimethyl resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 5-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 3-amino 2-chloro-6-met hylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-anisole sulfate, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2 -Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylamino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-naphthol, 2-methyl 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-bis - [(2'-hydroxyethyl) amino] -toluene, 4-hydroxyindole , 6-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures thereof.

In order to obtain a balanced and subtle nuance formation, it can also be provided in the context of the present invention that the cosmetic compositions with OFV additionally contain at least one substantive dye. Alternatively, cosmetic agents are also included in which the color change results only from substantive dyes.

Direct dyes are dyes that are applied directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the dye. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols.

Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.

Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those referred to as Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52 and tetrabromophenol blue known compounds.

Preferred cationic substantive dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14 as well as aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and HC Blue 16, as well as Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.

Preferred nonionic substantive dyes are HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red 2, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, and 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6 dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol , 1- (2'-Ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1 , 4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.

Furthermore, as direct dyes also occurring in nature dyes are used, as for example in henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, walnut, buckthorn bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu and alkano root are included.

Preferably, the cosmetic agent contains the substantive dyes in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 8 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

in der R¹ eine Alkyl-, Alkenyl- oder Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen oder eine Acylaminoalkylgruppe der Formel R⁵CONH(CH₂)_m- ist, worin R⁵CO eine lineare Acylgruppe mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen und m = 2 oder 3 ist,
R² und R³ Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen oder Hydroxyalkylgruppen mit 2 bis 4 C-Atomen oder Carboxyalkylgruppen der Formel -(CH₂)_z-COOM sind, worin z einen Wert von 1 bis 3 hat und M Wasserstoff oder ein Alkalimetallkation ist,
x einen Wert von 1 bis 3 und y einen Wert von (3 – x) hat, M Wasserstoff oder ein Alkalimetallkation ist und A^– ein Anion ist. As a second essential component b), the cosmetic agents contain at least one cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL,

in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms or an acylaminoalkyl group of the formula R ⁵ CONH (CH ₂ ) _m -, wherein R ⁵ CO is a linear acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and m = 2 or 3,
R ² and R ^{3 are} alkyl groups having 1 to 4 C atoms or hydroxyalkyl groups having 2 to 4 C atoms or carboxyalkyl groups of the formula - (CH ₂ ) _z -COOM, wherein z has a value of 1 to 3 and M is hydrogen or a Alkali metal cation,
x has a value of 1 to 3 and y has a value of (3 - x), M is hydrogen or an alkali metal cation and A ^{- is} an anion.

Preferred alkyl groups having 8 to 22 C atoms are selected from an n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, lauryl, n-tridecanyl, myristyl, n-pentadecanyl, cetyl , Palmityl, stearyl, elaidyl, arachidyl, behenyl and a cocyl group. A representative cocyl group, based on its total weight, consists of 4-9% by weight of n-octyl, 4-9% by weight of n-decyl, 45-55% by weight of lauryl, 15-21 Wt% myristyl, 8-13 wt% palmityl and 7-14 wt% stearyl groups. Preferred alkenyl groups having 8 to 22 C atoms are selected from a linoleyl group ((9Z, 12Z) -Octadeca-9,12-dien-1-yl) and a linolenyl group ((9Z, 12Z, 15Z) octadeca -9,12,15-trien-1-yl). A preferred hydroxyalkyl group having 8 to 22 C atoms is selected from a 12-hydroxystearyl group.

Particularly preferred cationic phospholipids of the formula KPL are those in which R ^{1 is} an acylaminoalkyl group of the formula R ⁵ CONH (CH ₂ ) _m -, in which R ⁵ CO is a linear acyl group having 8 to 22 C atoms and m = 3.

Preferred linear acyl groups R ⁵ CO having 8 to 22 C atoms are selected from an n-octanoyl, n-nonanoyl, n-decanoyl, n-undecanoyl, lauroyl, n-tridecanoyl, myristoyl, n- Pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl, behenoyl, linoleoyl and a cocoyl group. A representative cocoyl group, based on its total weight, consists of 4-9% by weight of n-octanoyl, 4-9% by weight of n-decanoyl, 45-55% by weight of lauroyl, 15-21 Wt% myristoyl, 8-13 wt% palmitoyl and 7-14 wt% stearoyl groups. Particularly preferred linear acyl groups R ⁵ CO are selected from a cocoyl group, a lauroyl group (nC ₁₁ H ₂₃ CO), a myristoyl group (nC ₁₃ H ₂₇ CO) and a linoleoyl group ((9Z, 12Z) - octadeca-9,12-dien-1-oyl). An exceptionally preferred linear acyl group R ⁵ CO is a linoleoyl group ((9Z, 12Z) octadeca-9,12-dien-1-oyl).

Preferred alkyl groups having 1 to 4 C atoms are a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 2-methylpropyl and a tert-butyl group. Particularly preferred is the methyl group. Preferred hydroxyalkyl groups having 2-4 C atoms are a 2-hydroxyethyl and a 1-hydroxyethyl group.

Preferred carboxyalkyl groups of the formula - (CH ₂ ) _z -COOM with z = 1 to 3 are a carboxymethyl, a carboxyethyl and a carboxy-n-propyl group.

Preferred alkali metal cations are selected from sodium and potassium cations; Na ⁺ is particularly preferred. Preferred anions are selected from sulfate, chloride, phosphate, nitrate, bicarbonate and acetate, with a chloride anion being particularly preferred.

in der R¹ eine Acylaminoalkylgruppe der Formel R⁵CONH(CH₂)_m- ist, worin R⁵CO ausgewählt ist aus einer Cocoylgruppe, einer Lauroylgruppe, einer Myristoylgruppe und einer Linoleoyl-Gruppe und m = 3 ist, R² und R³ Methylgruppen sind, x = 3, y = 0 und A^– ein Chloridion sind. Preferred cosmetic agents contain a cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL,

wherein R ^{1 is} an acylaminoalkyl group of the formula R ⁵ CONH (CH ₂ ) _m - wherein R ⁵ CO is selected from a cocoyl group, a lauroyl group, a myristoyl group and a linoleoyl group, and m = 3, R ² and R ³ Are methyl, x = 3, y = 0 and A ^{- are} a chloride ion.

At least one cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL with the abovementioned features is preferably present in a total amount of 0.001-20% by weight, preferably 0.01-10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight , in each case based on the weight of the agent.

in der R¹ eine Linoleoylaminopropylgruppe ist, R² und R³ Methylgruppen sind, x = 3, y = 0 und A^– ein Chloridion sind und das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate erhältlich ist, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,001–20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01–10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1–5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht des Mittels. Particularly preferred cosmetic agents contain a cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL,

wherein R ^{1 is} a linoleoylaminopropyl group, R ² and R ^{3 are} methyl groups, x = 3, y = 0 and A ^{- is} a chloride ion and is available under the INCI name linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphates, in a total amount of 0.001 -20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1-5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

As a third essential component c) the cosmetic compositions contain a polydimethylsiloxane.

Preferred polydimethylsiloxanes may be both linear and crosslinked, as well as cyclic.

Linear polydimethylsiloxanes can be represented by the following structural formula (Si-1): (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-1)

The number x can be 0 or any integer. The viscosity of the linear polydimethylsiloxanes varies from very low to ultrahigh and depends on the height of the number x.

Ultrahigh viscosity linear polydimethylsiloxanes are linear polydimethylsiloxanes having a kinematic viscosity of greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm ² / s) at 25 ° C and more particularly in the range of 5,000,000 to 20,000,000 cSt (mm ² / s). Such polydimethylsiloxanes are also referred to as "polydimethylsiloxane gums" but are fluid.

Depending on the degree of crosslinking, crosslinked polydimethylsiloxanes are referred to as "polydimethylsiloxane elastomers" or "polydimethylsiloxane resins". Polydimethylsiloxane resins have a highly branched polymer structure with tri- or tetra-functionalized structural units.

enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht. The cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes referred to as cyclomethicones according to INCI can also be used. Here, cosmetic agents are preferred which contain at least one cyclic polydimethylsiloxane of the formula (Si-2)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

It is preferred that the cosmetic agent contains at least one linear polydimethylsiloxane. It is highly preferred that the linear polydimethylsiloxane be a linear ultrahigh viscosity polydimethylsiloxane.

It is particularly preferred that the cosmetic agent contains at least two linear polydimethylsiloxanes, which differ in their molecular weight and viscosity. In this embodiment, it is highly preferred that a linear polydimethylsiloxane is an ultrahigh viscosity linear polydimethylsiloxane and a linear polydimethylsiloxane a linear polydimethylsiloxane having a kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C of less than 1,000,000 cSt (mm ² / s), especially one kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C in the range of 20,000 cSt (mm ² / s) to 20,000 cSt (mm ² / s).

The amount of polydimethylsiloxane in the compositions is from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of agent.

As the fourth essential component d), the cosmetic compositions contain a nonionic surfactant of the formula (I) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) _n (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x OH (I), where n is an integer between 9 and 21 and x is an integer ≥ 20.

Suitable nonionic surfactants of formula (I) include compounds known by the following INCI names: oleth-20, ceteth-20, laureth-20, isosteareth-20, steareth-21, laureth-21, oleth-21, isosteareth -22, laureth-23, oleth-23, oleth-24, oleth-25, laureth-25, isosteareth-25, steareth-27 and mixtures thereof.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant of the formula (I) is CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) ₂₃ OH. This nonionic surfactant is known by the INCI name Laureth-23.

The amount of nonionic surfactant of formula (I) in the compositions is preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and most preferably from 0, based on the total weight of agent. 1 to 2% by weight.

As a fifth essential component e), the cosmetic compositions contain a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic fatty alcohols with an average degree of ethoxylation ≦ 7.

Suitable polyethylene glycol ethers e) include polyethylene glycol ethers which are known under the following INCI names: C9-11 Pareth-3, C9-11 Pareth-4, C9-11 Pareth-6, C10-16 Pareth-1, C10-16 Pareth- 2, C11-13 Pareth-6, C11-15 Pareth-3, C11-15 Pareth-5, C11-15 Pareth-7, C11-21 Pareth-3, C12-13 Pareth-1, C12-13 Pareth- 2, C12-13 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-5, C12-13 pareth-6, C12-13 pareth-7, C12-14 pareth-3, C12-14 pareth-5 , C12-14 Pareth-7, C12-15 Pareth-2, C12-15 Pareth-3, C12-15 Pareth-4, C12-15 Pareth-5, C12-15 Pareth-7, C12-16 Pareth-5, C12-16 Pareth-7, C14-15 Pareth-4, C14-15 Pareth-7 and mixtures thereof.

It is especially preferred that the polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic fatty alcohols having an average degree of ethoxylation ≤ 7 is the polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3. This polyethylene glycol ether is also known by the INCI name C12-15 Pareth-3.

The amount of polyethylene glycol ether e) in the compositions is from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight, and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of agent. ,

In a most preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agent contains the polydimethylsiloxane, the nonionic surfactant of formula (I) and the polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic fatty alcohols having an average degree of ethoxylation ≤ 7 in an amount of 0.03 to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total amount of cosmetic agent.

Most preferably, a commercially available emulsion "Xiameter ^® MEM-1352 Emulsion" by Dow Corning, which contains polydimethylsiloxane, Laureth-23 and Pareth-3, are used.

The cosmetic agents may contain other active ingredients and additives. It is therefore preferred in the context of the present invention if the cosmetic agent additionally contains at least one further compound selected from the group of (i) thickeners; (ii) linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 8 to 20 carbon atoms; (iii) surfactants, especially amphoteric surfactants; (iv) alkalizing agents; (v) oils; and (vi) their mixtures.

The cosmetic agents are preferably formulated as flowable preparations. The cosmetic products should be formulated in such a way that they can be applied and distributed well on the one hand, but on the other hand they are sufficiently viscous so that they remain at the site of action during the exposure time and do not run away.

It has therefore proved to be advantageous if the cosmetic compositions comprise at least one thickener selected from the group of (i) anionic, synthetic polymers; (ii) cationic synthetic polymers; (iii) naturally occurring thickeners, such as nonionic guar gums, scleroglucan gums or xanthan gums, gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, as well as cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses; (iv) nonionic synthetic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone; (v) inorganic thickening agents, especially phyllosilicates such as bentonite, especially smectites such as montmorillonite or hectorite; and (vi) their mixtures. The total amount of thickener is preferably from 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.005 to 1.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.008 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

It has proved to be advantageous in the context of the present invention, if at least one naturally occurring thickener, in particular xanthan gum and salts thereof, in a total amount of from 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.001 to 1.0 as a thickener Wt .-%, preferably from 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is included.

In the context of the present invention, it may be preferred if the cosmetic agent is selected from the group of myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol), stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol), cetearyl alcohol, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having 8 to 20 carbon atoms, 2-octyldodecanol, arachyl alcohol (eicosan-1-ol), gadoleyl alcohol ((9Z) -eicos-9-en-1-ol), arachidonic alcohol ((5Z, 8Z, 11Z, 14Z) -eicosa-5,8,11, 14-tetraene-1-ol), preferably 2-octyldodecanol and / or cetearyl alcohol. The total amount of alcohol can be from 1.0 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5.0 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, in particular from 12 to 20% by weight, in each case on the total weight of the cosmetic product.

Preferably, the cosmetic agents may further contain at least one partial ester or polyol partial ester. Such partial esters are, in particular, the mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol or the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol, in each case with linear saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, in particular those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of linear saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures these fatty acids and the methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated. The polyol partial esters are preferably selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol distearate, glycerol dipalmitate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol monopalmitate, ethylene glycol distearate, ethylene glycol dipalmitate, and mixtures thereof, especially mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glyceryl distearate, and glycerol dipalmitate. The partial esters or polyol partial esters are each contained in a total amount of from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 3.0 to 8.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The use of the abovementioned alcohols, partial esters and polypartial esters in the cosmetic compositions may be particularly preferred when the cosmetic compositions are in the form of a cream-form oil-in-water emulsion.

Furthermore, it can be provided that the cosmetic agents contain at least one surfactant.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic compositions contain at least one amphoteric surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO 3 ^(-) group.

• – Alkylbetaine mit 8 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – Amidopropylbetaine mit 8 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobetaine mit 8 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe und
• – Amphoacetate oder Amphodiacetate mit 8 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe.

As amphoteric surfactants, the following compounds are particularly preferred in the context of the present invention:

• Alkylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• Amidopropylbetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Sulfobetaines having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group and
• - Amphoacetates or amphodiacetates having 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the acyl group.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents contain as surfactant at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from amidopropylbetaines having 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the acyl group, in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Furthermore, it can be provided that the cosmetic compositions contain at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant. It has proved to be particularly advantageous if the ethoxylated nonionic surfactant has an HLB value above 10, preferably above 13. For this purpose, it is necessary that the nonionic surfactant has a sufficiently high degree of ethoxylation. In this context, the cosmetic composition therefore contains as ethoxylated nonionic surfactant at least one ethoxylated surfactant having at least 12 ethylene oxide units. In addition to the correspondingly ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, in particular the addition products of 20 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil are particularly suitable. The at least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth- 30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth- 30 and Ceteareth-30.

Cosmetic compositions in the context of the present invention generally have a basic pH, in particular between pH 8.0 and pH 12. These pHs are required to ensure opening of the outer cuticle (cuticle) and to allow penetration of the oxidation dye precursors and / or the oxidizing agent into the hair.

The adjustment of the aforementioned pH can preferably be carried out using an alkalizing agent. In the context of the present invention, the alkalizing agent is selected from the group of (i) inorganic alkalizing agents; (ii) organic alkalizing agents; and (iii) mixtures thereof, and in a total amount of from 1.5 to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 8.5% by weight, preferably from 3.0 to 8.0% by weight. %, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, ie aqueous solutions of ammonia, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate and mixtures thereof. Ammonia or ammonium hydroxide is a particularly preferred alkalizing agent. Particularly preferred is ammonia in a total amount of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of cosmetic agent, included.

Preferred organic alkalizing agents are selected from at least one alkanolamine. Preferred alkanolamines are selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 Aminopropan-2-ol (monoisopropanolamine), 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol , 2-Amino-2-methylbutanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane 1,3-diol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, N, N-dimethyl-ethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethanolamine and triisopropanolamine. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group of 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methyl-propane-1,3-diol and triethanolamine , Particularly preferred cosmetic agents contain a mixture of monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1ol. Preferably, the at least one alkanolamine in a total amount of 0.05 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the Total weight of the cosmetic product included.

Further preferred organic alkalizing agents are selected from basic amino acids, more preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D / L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D / L-lysine and mixtures hereof. Particularly preferred basic amino acids are selected from L-arginine, D-arginine and D / L-arginine. Preferred cosmetic agents contain at least one alkalizing agent other than alkanolamines and ammonia in a total amount of from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the cosmetic agent ,

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents contain, as alkalizing agents, a mixture of at least two different alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, in a total amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The pH of the cosmetic compositions, measured at 22 ° C., is preferably 8 to 12, preferably 9.5 to 12, preferably 10 to 11.5, in particular 10.5 to 11.

In the context of the present invention, it may further be preferred that the cosmetic compositions comprise at least one oil selected from the group of sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil and mixtures thereof , in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the cosmetic By means of, included. By using a previously mentioned oil, the effect of the active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants can be further increased.

• – Cetearylalkohol in einer Gesamtmenge von 2,0 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 5,0 bis 12 Gew.-%, weiterhin
• – Mischungen aus Glycerinmonostearat, Glycerinmonopalmitat, Glycerindistearat und Glycerindipalmitat in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 3,0 bis 8,0 Gew.-%, weiterhin
• – mindestens ein amphoteres Tensid, ausgewählt aus Amidopropylbetainen mit 9 bis 13 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Acylgruppe, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,2 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, weiterhin
• – eine Mischung aus mindestens zwei voneinander verschiedenen Alkanolaminen, insbesondere von Monoethanolamin und 2-Amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,05 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,5 bis 10 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 3,5 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, weiterhin
• – Traubenkernöl in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt von 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 0,5 bis 2,0 Gew.-%.

The cosmetic compositions particularly preferably contain grapeseed oil in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic product. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agents present as oil-in-water emulsion contain, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.

• Cetearyl alcohol in a total amount of 2.0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 12 wt .-%, further
• Mixtures of glycerol monostearate, glycerol monopalmitate, glycerol distearate and glycerol dipalmitate in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 3.0 to 8.0 wt
• At least one amphoteric surfactant selected from amidopropylbetaines containing 9 to 13 carbon atoms in the acyl group, in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 2.0% by weight
• A mixture of at least two different alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, in a total amount of from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight %, in particular from 3.5 to 7.5 wt .-%, continue
• - Grapeseed oil in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-%.

Oxidative staining compositions may also be prepared directly prior to use from two or more separately packaged compositions. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction. Separation into multicomponent systems is particularly preferred where incompatibilities of the ingredients are to be expected or feared. The oxidative coloring composition in these cases is prepared by the consumer just prior to use by mixing the components. In the context of the present invention, this procedure is particularly preferred for oxidative colorants in which the cosmetic product is initially present separately from an oxidizing agent preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent.

• a) mindestens einen Container (C1), enthaltend ein kosmetisches Mittel zur Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern, und
• b) mindestens einen Container (C2), enthaltend eine Oxidationsmittelzubereitung, welche in einem kosmetisch verträglichen Träger mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 bis 7,0 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 1,0 bis 7,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 3,0 bis 7,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Oxidationsmittelzubereitung, sowie mindestens eine Säure enthält.

A further subject of the present invention is therefore a packaging unit (kit-of-parts), comprising - made up separately -

• a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent for color change keratinischer fibers, and
• b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation which in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent in a total amount of 0.5 to 7.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1.0 to 7.0 wt. %, in particular from 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation, and at least one acid.

The use of the active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants in combination with certain amounts of oxidizing agent results in the use of the aforementioned packing unit for coloring keratinic fibers surprisingly in an increased wash fastness, but without the addition of said active ingredient combination with the untrained human eye discernible color shift of ΔE> 2 occurs.

In the context of the present invention, the term "container" is understood to mean an envelope which is present in the form of an optionally resealable bottle, a tube, a can, a sachet, a sachet or similar wrappings. The wrapping material has no limits. However, these are preferably casings made of glass or plastic.

The oxidizing agents in the present invention are different from atmospheric oxygen. As the oxidizing agent, hydrogen peroxide and its solid addition products to organic and inorganic compounds can be used. Suitable solid addition products are in particular the addition products of urea, melamine, polyvinylpyrrolidinone and sodium borate in question. Hydrogen peroxide and / or one of its solid addition products of organic or inorganic compounds are particularly preferred as the oxidizing agent. The oxidizing agent is therefore preferably selected from the group of persulfates, chlorites, hydrogen peroxide and addition products of hydrogen peroxide with urea, melamine and sodium borate, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

A particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that as the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 7.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, in particular of 3, 0 to 7.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation is included. The calculation of the total amount refers to 100% H ₂ O ₂ .

The oxidizing agent preparations may further comprise water in a total amount of from 40 to 98% by weight, in particular from 65 to 85% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation.

• – mindestens ein lineares gesättigtes Alkanol mit 12 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,5 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 1,0 bis 4,0 Gew.-%, weiterhin
• – mindestens ein ethoxyliertes nichtionisches Tensid, welches bevorzugt ausgewählt ist aus Tensiden mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Ceteth-12, Steareth-12, Ceteareth-12, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil und PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil sowie Mischungen dieser Substanzen, besonders bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 und Ceteareth-30, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 0,5 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 1,0 bis 4,0 Gew.-%, sowie
• – mindestens einen Ester aus einer Carbonsäure mit 10 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen und einem linearen oder verzweigten Alkohol mit 1 bis 5 Kohlenstoffatomen, bevorzugt Isopropylmyristat, in einer Gesamtmenge von 3,0 bis 25 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise von 5,0 bis 20 Gew.-%, insbesondere von 8,0 bis 15 Gew.-%.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the oxidizing agent preparations contain, in each case based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparations,

• - At least one linear saturated alkanol having 12 to 30 carbon atoms in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0 wt .-%, in particular from 1.0 to 4.0 wt. -%, Farther
• At least one ethoxylated nonionic surfactant, which is preferably selected from surfactants having the INCI name ceteth-12, steareth-12, ceteareth-12, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, Ceteareth-30, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-50, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and mixtures of these substances, more preferably selected from Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30 and ceteareth-30, in a total amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5.0% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 4.0% by weight, such as
• At least one ester of a carboxylic acid having 10 to 20 carbon atoms and a linear or branched alcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably isopropyl myristate, in a total amount of 3.0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 5.0 to 20 wt. -%, in particular from 8.0 to 15 wt .-%.

The oxidizing agent preparations further contain at least one acid. Preferred acids are selected from dipicolinic acid, edible acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid, lactic acid and tartaric acid, dilute mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, pyrophosphoric acid and sulfuric acid, as well as mixtures thereof. The oxidizing agent preparations preferably have a pH in the range from 2 to 5, in particular from 3 to 4, on.

For the preparation of kit-of-parts oxidative dyeing compositions, the above-described keratin fiber cosmetic change agent in the container C1 is mixed with the oxidizer preparation in the container C2 or vice versa.

Furthermore, it may be particularly advantageous if the packaging unit contains at least one further hair treatment agent in an additional container, in particular a conditioner preparation. This conditioner composition advantageously contains at least one conditioning agent selected from the group of cationic polymers, silicone derivatives and oils. In addition, the packaging unit application aids, such as combs, brushes, Applicetten or brushes, personal protective clothing, especially disposable gloves, and optionally include instructions for use. Under one Applicette is understood to mean a broad brush with a tip at its stem end which allows and simplifies the compartmenting of fiber bundles out of the total amount of fibers.

With respect to the cosmetic agent in the container C1 and the oxidizing agent preparation in the container C2 mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic means said.

• a) Bereitstellen eines kosmetischen Mittels zur Farbveränderung keratinischer Fasern (M1),
• b) Bereitstellen einer Oxidationsmittelzubereitung (M2), enthaltend in einem kosmetisch verträglichen Träger mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel sowie mindestens eine Säure,
• c) Vermischen des kosmetischen Mittels (M1) mit der Oxidationsmittelzubereitung (M2),
• d) Applizieren der in Schritt c) erhaltenen Mischung auf die keratinischen Fasern und Belassen dieser Mischung für eine Zeit von 1 bis 60 Minuten, bevorzugt von 20 bis 45 Minuten, bei Raumtemperatur und/oder bei mindestens 30 °C auf den keratinischen Fasern,
• e) Spülen der keratinischen Fasern mit Wasser und/oder einer reinigenden Zusammensetzung, und
• f) gegebenenfalls Applizieren eines Nachbehandlungsmittels auf die keratinischen Fasern und Ausspülen.

A further subject matter of the present invention is a process for dyeing keratinic fibers with increased fastness to washing with simultaneously minimized color shift, the process comprising the following process steps:

• a) providing a cosmetic agent for changing the color of keratinic fibers (M1),
• b) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one oxidizing agent and at least one acid,
• c) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2),
• d) applying the mixture obtained in step c) to the keratinic fibers and leaving this mixture for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 ° C on the keratinic fibers,
• e) rinsing the keratinic fibers with water and / or a cleaning composition, and
• f) optionally applying an aftertreatment agent to the keratinic fibers and rinsing.

As a cosmetic agent for the color change of keratinic fibers (M1), the agent described above with the active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants is used.

The method for coloring keratinic fibers using the active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants results in improved wash fastness of dyed keratinic fibers, but without the undesirable color shift of ΔE> 2 is coming.

Room temperature is to be understood in the context of the present invention, the ambient temperature. The effect of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation can be enhanced by external heat, for example by means of a heat hood. The preferred exposure time of the dyeing and / or whitening preparation to the keratinic fiber is 10 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes. After completion of the exposure time, the remaining colorant is washed out of the keratinic fibers by means of a cleaning preparation, which preferably contains at least one cationic and / or anionic and / or nonionic surfactant, and / or water. If necessary, the process is repeated with a further agent. After washing, the keratinic fibers are optionally rinsed with an aftertreatment agent, such as a conditioner, and dried with a towel or a hot air blower. The application of the dyeing preparation is usually done by hand by the user. Personal protective clothing is preferably worn here, in particular suitable protective gloves, for example made of plastic or latex for single use (disposable gloves) and optionally an apron. But it is also possible to apply the colorants with an application aid on the keratinic fibers.

With respect to the cosmetic agent M1, the oxidizing agent preparation M2 and further preferred embodiments of the method mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic means and to the packaging unit.

Finally, another object of the present invention is the use of a cosmetic or kit-of-parts package to enhance the wash fastness of keratinous fibers while minimizing color shift. The use of a combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants results in increased washfastness of dyed keratinic fibers without the addition of this combination leading to an undesirable color shift of ΔE> 2 visible to the untrained human eye.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the use mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic means and to the packaging unit.

The following examples are intended to illustrate preferred embodiments of the invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples:

1. recipes

Compositions of the cosmetic agents used for the color change of keratinic fibers (oil-in-water emulsions, all amounts in% by weight). raw material E1 V1 V2 Xanthan gum 0.1 0.1 0.1 2-octyldodecanol 2 2 2 Lanette N * 14 14 14 Cetearyl alcohol 4 4 4 glycerol 6 6 6 Glycerine 99.5% 2 2 2 Cocoamidopropylbetaine, 40% 2 2 2 Monoethanolamine 4.4 4.4 4.4 2-amino-2-methylpropanol 0.1 0.1 0.1 Sodium sulfite, anhydrous 0.3 0.3 0.3 Caramel syrup, 75% 0.1 0.1 0.1 Grapeseed oil 1 1 1 vitamin C 0.1 0.1 0.1 4-amino-3-methylphenol 0.1 0.1 0.1 m-aminophenol 1 1 1 p-amino-o-cresol 0.2 0.2 0.2 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole .H ₂ SO ₄ 2 2 2 Phospholipid KPL ** 2 - 2 XIAMETER ^® MEM-1352 Emulsion *** 2 - - Water, demineralized ad 100.0 ad 100.0 ad 100.0 * INCI name: Cetearyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulfate (BASF SE)
** cationic phospholipid with the INCI name: Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
*** INCI name: Dimethicone (content: 60%), Laureth-23 and C12-15 Pareth-3 (ex Dow Corning)

The fat base was melted together at 80 ° C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently, the remaining recipe ingredients were incorporated with stirring in order. It was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred cold.

Oxidizing agent preparation O1 (all amounts in% by weight) raw material O1 disodiumpyrophosphate 0.1 dipicolinic 0.1 Potassium hydroxide 50% 0.3 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid 60% 0.4 C _16-18 fatty alcohol sulfate 0.3 PEG-40 Castor Oil 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Ceteareth-20 1 beeswax 0.3 isopropyl 10 Hydrogen peroxide 50% 11 Demineralized water ad 100

2. Color shift by the addition of the active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants

For the preparation of the oxidative colorants for determining the color shift, the cosmetic agents V1 and V2 and E1 were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the above oxidizing agent preparation O1.

The oxidative dyes prepared in this way were each applied in a defined amount (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of natural hair) to natural hair tresses (NH 6-0) (12 strands per oxidative dye) and remained for an exposure time of 30 minutes 32 ° C on the strands of hair. The remaining remedies were then rinsed with lukewarm water from the hair strands for 2 minutes, the strands first dried with a towel and then dry-blown.

All tresses were measured with a colorimeter from Datacolor, type Spectraflash 450. The values ΔE used for the assessment color shift result from the L * a * b color measurement values measured at the respective strand as follows: ΔE = ((L _i -L ₀ ) ² + (a _i -a ₀ ) ² + (b _i -b ₀ ) ² ) ^1/2 a ₀ , b ₀ and L ₀ are in each case the mean values of the color measurement values of the natural hair strands dyed out using the standardized carrier (V1). ai, bi and Li each represent the average values of the colorimetric values which are obtained for dyed natural hair strands with the addition of the specific active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants to the standardized carrier.

The larger the value for ΔE, the more pronounced is the color difference or "color shift". Color differences with ΔE <1 are imperceptible to the human eye. Color differences with ΔE <2 are visible to the trained eye. Color differences with ΔE> 2 are also visible to the untrained eye. Table 1 shows the ΔE values for the colorations using the cosmetic agents E1 and V2. The coloration with the cosmetic agent E1, which contains the active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and two selected surfactants, has only a slight color shift of ΔE <2, which are not visible to the untrained eye. Oxidative dye AE E1 + O1 (1: 1) 0.30 V2 + O1 (1: 1) 2.90

2. Improved wash fastness

To prepare the oxidative colorants for determining the fastness to washing, the cosmetic compositions E1, V1 and V2 were each mixed in a weight ratio of 1: 1 with the above oxidizing agent preparation O1.

For the dyeings 12 natural strands of hair (NH 6-0) per oxidative dye were used. For this purpose, in each case 4 g of the oxidative dyeing agents prepared per 1 g of hair strand were applied. After streaks were dyed at 32 ° C for 30 minutes, they were rinsed with water for 2 minutes and air dried. Subsequently, the color measurement values were determined (reference value).

The strands were then washed six times each with a commercially available shampoo. The tresses were then dried in air and stored for 24 h at 25 ° C and 25% relative humidity.

Tresses washed six times were measured with a Datacolor Spectraflash 450 colorimeter. The values ΔE used for the color shift evaluation were determined as described above.

The coloration with the cosmetic product E1, which contained the active ingredient combination of cationic phospholipid, polydimethylsiloxane and the two selected surfactants, in each case a significant compared to a color combination without active ingredient combination (V1) or a coloration without polydimethylsiloxane and the two selected surfactants (V2) improved wash fastness. Oxidative dye AE E1 + O1 (1: 1) 0.53 V1 + O1 (1: 1) 1.98 V2 + O1 (1: 1) 1.71

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 4408506 A1 [0016]

Claims (11)

Cosmetic agent for color change of keratinous fibers, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one compound selected from the group consisting of oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, b) at least one cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL

in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms or an acylaminoalkyl group of the formula R ⁵ CONH (CH ₂ ) _m -, wherein R ⁵ CO is a linear acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and m = 2 or 3, R ² and R ^{3 are} alkyl groups having 1 to 4 C atoms or hydroxyalkyl groups having 2 to 4 C atoms or carboxyalkyl groups of the formula - (CH ₂ ) _z -COOM, where z is 1 to is 3 and M is hydrogen or an alkali metal cation, x has a value of 1 to 3 and y has a value of (3 - x) ^- is an anion, c) a polydimethylsiloxane, d) has, M is hydrogen or an alkali metal cation and a Nonionic surfactant of the formula (I) CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) _n (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x OH (I), where n is an integer between 9 and 21 and x is an integer ≥ 20, and e) a polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic fatty alcohols with an average degree of ethoxylation ≦ 7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL

a cationic phospholipid wherein R ^{1 is} an acylaminoalkyl group of the formula R ⁵ CONH (CH ₂ ) _m - wherein R ⁵ CO is selected from a cocoyl group, a lauroyl group, a myristoyl group and a linoleoyl group and m = 3, R ² and R ^{3 are} methyl groups, x = 3, y = 0 and A ^{- are} a chloride ion. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the cationic phospholipid of the formula KPL

a cationic phospholipid in which R ^{1 is} an acylaminoalkyl group of the formula R ⁵ CONH (CH ₂ ) _m - wherein R ⁵ CO is a linoleoyl group and m = 3, R ² and R ^{3 are} methyl groups, x = 3, y = 0 and A ^{- are} a chloride ion. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the nonionic surfactant of the formula (I) is CH ₃ (CH ₂ ) ₁₁ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) ₂₃ OH. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic fatty alcohols having an average degree of ethoxylation ≤ 7 is the polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols having an average degree of ethoxylation of 3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the amount of polydimethylsiloxane, nonionic surfactant of the formula (I) and polyethylene glycol ether of a mixture of synthetic fatty alcohols having an average degree of ethoxylation ≤ 7 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total amount of cosmetic agent. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polydimethylsiloxane comprises an ultrahigh viscosity linear polydimethylsiloxane.  Packing unit (kit-of-parts), comprising - made up separately - a) at least one container (C1) containing a cosmetic agent for color change keratinischer fibers according to one of claims 1 to 7, and b) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation which in a cosmetically acceptable carrier at least one oxidizing agent in a total amount of 0.5 to 7.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1.0 to 7.0 wt. %, in particular from 3.0 to 7.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation, and at least one acid.  Process for dyeing keratinic fibers with increased wash fastness while minimizing color shift, the process comprising the following process steps: a) providing a cosmetic agent for color-changing keratinic fibers (M1) according to one of claims 1 to 7, b) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one oxidizing agent in a total amount of from 0.5 to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 7.0% by weight, in particular of From 3.0 to 7.0% by weight, in particular in each case based on the total weight of the oxidizing agent preparation, and also at least one acid, c) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), d) applying the mixture obtained in step c) to the keratinic fibers and leaving this mixture for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably from 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at least 30 ° C on the keratinic fibers, e) rinsing the keratinic fibers with water and / or a cleaning composition, and f) optionally applying an aftertreatment agent to the keratinic fibers and rinsing.  Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or a kit of parts according to claim 8 for increasing the wash fastness of dyed keratinic fibers while minimizing the color shift in the coloring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.