EP3141149A1 - Cosmetic applicator, method for obtaining an applicator, and associated applicator assembly - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an applicator (10) for a cosmetic product, comprising a core (12) extending in a main longitudinal extension direction, said main direction (X), said core (12) comprising two twisted metal strands, said applicator (10) further comprising a plurality of fibers retained on the core (12) by said twisted strands. Said twisted strands form non-contiguous turns (14, 14 ', 15) so as to house said fibers, the number and / or the nature of the fibers varying from one turn, called the first turn (14, 14'), to another, said second turn (15). The invention also relates to a process for obtaining an applicator (10) for a cosmetic product. The invention also relates to an applicator assembly for a cosmetic product.

Description

The invention relates to an applicator for a cosmetic product, a process for obtaining an applicator for a cosmetic product, and an associated applicator assembly.

The mascara applicators can be injection molded of plastic material, they are then commonly called "plastic brushes". They can also be obtained from fibrous elements held between the longitudinal parts of a twisted spindle; they are then commonly called "fiber brushes". The applicators for mascara have a core, or central portion, and spikes extending radially around said core. The ends of said spikes usually form envelopes in a principal longitudinal extension direction of said brush. The spikes of fiber brushes are commonly called "fibers".

The plastic brushes of the prior art have pin distributions around the core that allow the realization of complex envelopes favoring makeup. As regards fiber brushes, such characteristics seem more difficult to obtain, unless fiber-cutting operations are used along paths that are difficult to implement.

The invention proposes to make an applicator provided with fibers which have advantageous characteristics in terms of makeup, while remaining relatively simple to obtain.

Thus, the invention relates to an applicator for a cosmetic product, comprising a core extending in a main longitudinal extension direction, said main direction, said core comprising two twisted metal strands, said applicator further comprising a plurality of fibers retained on the soul by said twisted strands.

According to the invention, said twisted strands form non-contiguous turns so as to accommodate said fibers, the number and / or the nature of the fibers varying from one turn, said first turn, to the other, said second turn.

The invention therefore proposes an applicator whose number and / or the nature of the fibers that compose it vary. This has the advantage of providing various makeup effects along the principal longitudinal extension direction of said applicator. Thus, the eyelashes of a user are combed and loaded effectively.

The use of a fiber-filled applicator allows, in addition, a greater density of fibers than with the pins of the plastic brushes.

• l'applicateur de l'invention comprend une pluralité de premières spires et une pluralité de secondes spires le long de ladite direction principale,
• ladite pluralité de premières spires comprend des fibres d'une première nature, creuse, et des fibres d'une seconde nature, pleine,
• ladite pluralité de secondes spires comprend uniquement des fibres d'une première nature, creuse,
• l'applicateur de l'invention présente une extrémité proximale se prolongeant par une zone dépourvue de fibre, et une extrémité distale, opposée à ladite extrémité proximale le long de la direction principale,
• ladite pluralité de premières spires définit, à partir de ladite extrémité proximale, une première zone le long de ladite direction principale,
• ladite première zone comprend un nombre de spires compris dans l'intervalle [8 ; 12], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 10 spires,
• ladite première zone comprend un nombre de fibres appartenant à l'intervalle [1100 ; 1500], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 1300 fibres,
• ladite première zone comprend un nombre de fibres de première nature, creuse, appartenant à l'intervalle [500 ; 700] et un nombre de fibres de seconde nature, pleine, appartenant à l'intervalle [600 ; 800], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 600 fibres creuses et un nombre de l'ordre de 700 fibres pleines,
• la pluralité de secondes spires est située entre ladite première zone et ladite extrémité distale, définissant ainsi une seconde zone le long de ladite direction principale,
• ladite seconde zone comprend un nombre de spires compris dans l'intervalle [3 ; 5], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 4 spires,
• ladite seconde zone comprend un nombre de fibres appartenant à l'intervalle [150 ; 250], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 200 fibres,
• ladite première zone présente des spires écartées d'un premier pas, et ladite seconde zone présente des spires écartées d'un second pas, ledit premier pas étant supérieur audit second pas,
• l'applicateur forme une brosse.

According to various embodiments of the invention, which may be taken together or separately:

• the applicator of the invention comprises a plurality of first turns and a plurality of second turns along said main direction,
• said plurality of first turns comprises fibers of a first nature, hollow, and fibers of a second nature, solid,
• said plurality of second turns comprises only fibers of a first nature, hollow,
• the applicator of the invention has a proximal end extending through a fiber-free zone, and a distal end opposite said proximal end along the main direction,
• said plurality of first turns defines, from said proximal end, a first zone along said main direction,
• said first zone comprises a number of turns in the range [8; 12], in particular a number of the order of 10 turns,
• said first zone comprises a number of fibers belonging to the interval [1100; 1500], in particular a number of the order of 1300 fibers,
• said first zone comprises a number of fibers of first nature, hollow, belonging to the interval [500; 700] and a number of fibers of second nature, full, belonging to the interval [600; 800], in particular a number in the order of 600 hollow fibers and a number in the order of 700 solid fibers,
• the plurality of second turns is located between said first zone and said distal end, thereby defining a second zone along said main direction,
• said second zone comprises a number of turns in the range [3; 5], in particular a number on the order of 4 turns,
• said second zone comprises a number of fibers belonging to the interval [150; 250], in particular a number in the order of 200 fibers,
• said first zone has turns spaced apart by a first pitch, and said second zone has turns spaced apart by a second pitch, said first pitch being greater than said second pitch,
• the applicator forms a brush.

• une étape de répartition d'une pluralité de fibres entre deux brins métalliques, lesdits deux brins s'étendant selon une direction d'extension longitudinale principale, dite direction principale, la densité et/ou la nature des fibres réparties entre lesdits deux brins variant le long de ladite direction principale,
• une unique étape de torsion desdits deux brins de manière à former des spires non jointives le long de ladite direction principale de sorte à former une enveloppe sensiblement cylindrique à l'aide des extrémités libres desdites fibres, la force de torsion appliquée audit deux brins étant uniforme le long de ladite direction principale.

The invention also relates to a process for obtaining an applicator for a cosmetic product, comprising:

• a step of distributing a plurality of fibers between two metal strands, said two strands extending in a direction of principal longitudinal extension, said main direction, the density and / or the nature of the fibers distributed between said two strands varying the along the said main direction,
• a single step of twisting said two strands so as to form non-contiguous turns along said main direction so as to form a substantially cylindrical envelope with the free ends of said fibers, the torsion force applied to said two strands being uniform along said main direction.

The applicator thus obtained has the advantage of having a complex distribution of fibers by using operations which remain simple to implement.

• le procédé de fabrication selon l'invention comprend, en outre, une étape de découpe des extrémités libres desdites fibres de manière à former des creux au niveau de spires comprenant des fibres d'une première nature, creuse, et des sommets au niveau de spires comprenant des fibres d'une seconde nature, pleine,
• ladite découpe est réalisée à l'aide d'une fraise ondulée par rapport à une direction sensiblement parallèle à ladite direction principale,
• ladite découpe est à commande numérique.

According to various embodiments of the invention, which may be taken together or separately:

• the manufacturing method according to the invention further comprises a step of cutting the free ends of said fibers so as to form hollow at coils comprising fibers of a first nature, hollow, and summits at coils comprising fibers of a second nature, solid,
• said cut is made using a corrugated bur compared to a direction substantially parallel to said main direction,
• said cutout is numerically controlled.

The invention also relates to an applicator assembly for a cosmetic product, comprising a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the cosmetic product, and an applicator as described above, or an applicator obtained according to the method of the invention, adapted to be fixed on the container, so that said applicator is housed inside the tank.

The invention will be better understood, and other objects, details, features and advantages thereof will become more clearly apparent in the following detailed explanatory description of at least one embodiment of the invention given to As a purely illustrative and non-limiting example, with reference to the attached schematic figure.

This figure, called figure 1 , schematically illustrates, in front view, an embodiment of an applicator according to the invention.

As illustrated on the figure 1 the invention relates to an applicator 10 for cosmetic product, comprising a core 12 extending in a main longitudinal extension direction, said main direction and marked X. Here, the applicator 10 is shown with a straight core 12; however it could be provided with a curved core without departing from the scope of the invention.

Said core 12 comprises two twisted metal strands and a plurality of fibers retained on the core 12 by said twisted strands. Said metal strands will preferably be solid and cylindrical so as not to disturb the distribution of the fibers on either side of the core 12 during the manufacture of the applicator 10.

According to the invention, said twisted strands form turns 14, 14 ', 15 not contiguous so as to house said fibers. The number and / or the nature of the fibers advantageously vary from one turn, called the first turn 14, 14 ', to the other, called the second turn 15. The term "non-contiguous turns" means consecutive turns that do not not in contact with each other. Advantageously, the density of fibers accommodated by a said first turn 14, 14 'will here be less than the density of fibers accommodated by a said second turn 15.

On the other hand, the term "nature of fibers" means different fibers, especially in terms of diameter, material, shape - hollow or full - even color and / or extension; for example, fibers of substantially straight radial extension and fibers with branches will be understood to be of different natures. So, on the figure 1 , the turns 14, 14 ', 15 house fibers of different natures, in particular by their hollow or solid shape.

To vary the types of fibers along said main direction X makes it possible to provide different makeup effects for the user, without the user paying attention.

The applicator 10 of the invention will advantageously comprise a plurality of first turns 14, 14 'and a plurality of second turns 15 along said main direction X. In particular, said plurality of first turns 14, 14' will comprise fibers of a first nature, hollow, marked A on the figure 1 , and fibers of a second nature, full, marked B on the same figure 1 . More precisely, the identified turns 14 house hollow fibers A and the identified turns 14 ', solid fibers B.

The term "hollow fibers" means fibers in the form of tubes, the hollow of which is randomly distributed with respect to the barycenter of the hollow fiber. Said hollow fibers are distributed randomly on either side of the core 12 during the manufacture of such an applicator 10; it is said that such hollow fibers abound on both sides of the core 12. This has the advantage of obtaining interesting makeup effects at the turns 14 which house hollow fibers A.

The "solid fibers", meanwhile, are distributed regularly on both sides of the core 12 during the manufacture of such an applicator 10. This presents the advantage of obtaining other makeup effects at the turns 14 'which house solid fibers B.

For example, it will be advantageous to provide hollow fibers A with a diameter of about 0.127 mm and full fibers B with a diameter of about 0.102 mm.

It should be noted that the applicator 10 of the invention has a proximal end 17 extending through a fiber-free zone 16, and a distal end 18, opposite to said proximal end 17 along the main direction X. The portion fiber-free rod 16 is also referred to as sleeve 16. This sleeve 16 is advantageously intended for assembling said applicator 10 with a rod, itself linked to a means allowing manipulation of the assembly by the user, by example a plug (not shown here).

On the other hand, said plurality of first turns 14, 14 'defines, from said proximal end 17, a first zone Z1 along said main direction X. Said first zone Z1 will preferably extend over a length 11 inclusive. between 18mm and 22mm, for example on a length l1 of the order of 20mm. Said first zone Z1 will also have a number of turns in the range [8; 12], in particular 10 turns.

As a matter of precision, said first zone Z1 will comprise a number of fibers belonging to the interval [1100; 1500], in particular 1300 fibers, advantageously composed of a number of hollow fibers A belonging to the interval [500; 700] and a number of solid fibers B belonging to the interval [600; 800]. It should be noted that particularly advantageous makeup results have been observed with a said first zone Z1 comprising 600 hollow fibers A and 700 solid fibers B.

Said plurality of first turns 14, 14 'advantageously comprises a regular alternation of turns 14 housing hollow fibers A and turns 14' housing solid fibers B. This contributes to the particularly advantageous makeup effects obtained along the main direction X of the applicator 10 of the invention.

The plurality of second turns 15 will be located between said first zone Z1 and said distal end 18, thus defining a second zone Z2 along said main direction X. Said second zone Z2 will preferably extend over a length l2 included between 4mm and 8mm, for example over a length l2 of the order of 6mm. Said second zone Z2 will advantageously comprise a number of turns in the range [3; 5], in particular 4 turns.

For accuracy, said second zone Z2 will comprise a number of fibers belonging to the interval [150; 250], in particular 200 fibers, composed solely of hollow fibers. In other words, the plurality of second turns 15 house only hollow fibers. The hollow fibers of said second zone Z2 will have a radial extension less than or equal to the radial extension of the other fibers forming the applicator 10; they are therefore more rigid; the term "radial extension" is the distance between the main direction X and the free end of the fibers.

For example, the envelope formed by the hollow fibers of said second zone Z2 will have a frustoconical shape with a diameter d2 in the vicinity of the distal end 18 substantially equal to 4.5 mm, for example. Said second zone Z2 thus has the advantage of being intended for precise makeup, for example for parts that are difficult for the user to access. In addition, said second zone Z2 will prevent the presence of cosmetic product residue at the end of applicator 10. Indeed, the hollow fibers of said second zone Z2 will capture the cosmetic product, especially in the case of mascara, rather than let it agglomerate at the end of the applicator 10.

Said first zone Z1 advantageously has turns 14, 14 'spaced apart by a first pitch p1, and said second zone Z2 advantageously has turns 15 spaced apart by a second pitch p2, said first pitch p1 being greater than said second pitch p2 . In other words, the housing formed by the turns 14, 14 'for hollow and solid fibers of the first zone Z1 will be larger than the housing formed by the turns 15 of the second zone Z2. This has the advantage, for the first zone Z1, to accommodate a higher density of fibers.

It should be noted that the applicator 10 of the invention will advantageously form a fiber brush.

The invention also relates to a process for the manufacture of an applicator for a cosmetic product, in particular mascara, for example that which has just been described.

The method according to the invention comprises a step of distributing a plurality of fibers between the two strands mentioned above. Advantageously, the density and / or the nature of the fibers distributed between said two strands will vary along said main direction X. This is followed by a step of twisting said two strands so as to form the non-contiguous turns 14, 14 ', 15 , in particular so as to form a substantially cylindrical envelope with the free ends of said fibers. This substantially cylindrical envelope is an intermediate envelope in obtaining an applicator 10 such as that which has just been described above. She is not represented here.

It should be noted that the torsion force applied to said two strands is uniform along said main direction X. A single twist step is therefore applied to the strands. In other words, the twist will form turns 14, 14 ', 15 which will have different pitches p1, p2 depending on the density and / or nature of the fibers that will be provided between them. In other words, the higher the density of fibers between said two strands, the higher the pitch between the turns obtained after torsion, since the torsion force applied to said two strands is uniform along said main direction X. In other words, a high density of fibers forms a high resistance to the uniform torsional force applied along said main direction X. In other words, said torsion force will have more difficulty in folding the metal strands in the vicinity of a high density of fibers in the vicinity of a lower density of fibers. It is the same when the nature of the fibers distributed between the strands varies along the main direction X. The nature of the fibers can indeed, in the same way as the density, form a more or less high resistance to the torsion force uniform applied to the strands along the main direction X.

The twisting step has the advantage of creating spaces between the tufts of fibers housed by turns 14, 14 'consecutive, said spaces being larger between turns 14, 14' housing high fiber densities. The spaces thus created are particularly advantageous for forming cosmetic product loading zones along the main direction X of the applicator 10 of the invention.

In order to accentuate this effect of charging zones, the manufacturing method according to the invention will also comprise a step of cutting the free ends of said fibers so as to form cavities at turns 14 comprising the hollow fibers B, and peaks at turns 14 'comprising the solid fibers A.

Said cutting will advantageously be performed, at said first zone Z1, using a corrugated bur, in particular corrugated with respect to a direction substantially parallel to said main direction X (mill not shown here).

Said cutting may also be provided with numerical control.

• au niveau desdits sommets, un diamètre dA compris entre 6,5mm et 8,5mm, par exemple un diamètre dA de l'ordre de 7,5mm, et
• au niveau desdits creux, un diamètre dB compris entre 4,5mm et 6mm, par exemple un diamètre dB de l'ordre de 5,5mm.

Particularly advantageous make-up effects will be obtained for an envelope formed of peaks and valleys, in particular in the form of a series of washers along the main direction X, said washers having:

• at said vertices, a diameter dA between 6.5mm and 8.5mm, for example a diameter dA of the order of 7.5mm, and
• at the level of said recesses, a diameter dB of between 4.5 mm and 6 mm, for example a diameter dB of the order of 5.5 mm.

The invention also relates to an applicator assembly (not shown here) for a cosmetic product, comprising a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the cosmetic product, and an applicator 10 as described above, or an applicator 10 obtained according to the method of the invention, adapted for to be fixed on the container, so that said applicator is housed inside the tank.

It should also be noted that variant embodiments are of course possible. In particular, it is also conceivable, in additional exemplary embodiments, that the applicator of the invention has a number of distinct zones, in terms of density and / or of fiber shape, which is greater than two zones, for example three to four distinct areas.

Claims (15)

An applicator (10) for a cosmetic product, comprising a core (12) extending in a main longitudinal extension direction, said main direction (X), said core (12) comprising two twisted metal strands, said applicator (10) comprising in addition a plurality of fibers retained on the core (12) by said twisted strands, said applicator (10) being characterized by the fact that said twisted strands form non-contiguous turns (14, 14 ', 15) so as to accommodate said fibers, the number and / or the nature of the fibers varying from one turn, said first turn (14, 14 ') to the other, said second turn (15). Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, comprising a plurality of first turns (14, 14 ') and a plurality of second turns (15) along said main direction (X). Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said plurality of first turns (14, 14 ') comprises fibers of a first nature, hollow (A), and fibers of a second nature, full (B). An applicator (10) according to any one of claims 2 or 3, wherein said plurality of second turns (15) comprises only fibers of a first nature, hollow. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, having a proximal end (17) extending through a zone (16) devoid of fiber, and a distal end (18) opposite said proximal end (17) along the main direction (X), said plurality of first turns (14, 14 ') defining, from said proximal end (17), a first zone (Z1) along said main direction (X). Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said first zone (Z1) comprises a number of turns (14, 14 ') in the range [8; 12]. An applicator (10) according to any of claims 5 or 6, wherein said first zone (Z1) comprises a number of fibers belonging to the interval [1100; 1500]. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said first zone (Z1) comprises a number of fibers of first nature, hollow (A), belonging to the interval [500; 700] and a number of fibers of second nature, solid (B), belonging to the interval [600; 800]. An applicator (10) according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein the plurality of second turns (15) is located between said first zone (Z1) and said distal end (18), thereby defining a second zone (Z2) along said main direction (X). Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said second zone (Z2) comprises a number of turns (15) in the range [3; 5]. An applicator (10) according to any one of claims 9 or 10, wherein said second zone (Z2) comprises a number of fibers belonging to the interval [150; 250]. An applicator (10) according to any one of claims 9 to 11, wherein said first zone (Z1) has turns (14, 14 ') spaced apart by a first pitch ( p1 ), and said second zone (Z2) presents turns (15) spaced apart by a second pitch ( p2 ), said first pitch ( p1 ) being greater than said second pitch ( p2 ). Process for obtaining an applicator (10) for a cosmetic product, comprising: a) a step of distributing a plurality of fibers between two metal strands, said two strands extending in a principal longitudinal extension direction, said main direction (X), the density and / or the nature of the fibers distributed between said two strands varying along said main direction (X), b) a single step of twisting said two strands so as to form non-contiguous turns (14, 14 ', 15) along said main direction so as to form a substantially cylindrical envelope with the free ends of said fibers, the torsion force applied to said two strands being uniform along said main direction (X). Manufacturing method according to the preceding claim, further comprising a step of cutting the free ends of said fibers so as to form hollows at the level of turns (14) comprising fibers of a first nature, hollow (A), and vertices at the level of turns (14 ') comprising fibers of a second nature, full (B). Applicator assembly for a cosmetic product, comprising: a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the cosmetic product, and an applicator (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 12, or an applicator (10) obtained according to any one of claims 13 or 14, adapted to be fixed on the container, so that said applicator (10) ) is housed inside the tank.

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