EP3082741A1 - Conditioner for keratin fibers having a silicone substitute - Google Patents
Conditioner for keratin fibers having a silicone substituteInfo
- Publication number
- EP3082741A1 EP3082741A1 EP14808651.5A EP14808651A EP3082741A1 EP 3082741 A1 EP3082741 A1 EP 3082741A1 EP 14808651 A EP14808651 A EP 14808651A EP 3082741 A1 EP3082741 A1 EP 3082741A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stands
- carbon atoms
- dimethylamine
- group
- saturated
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 13
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 13
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 title description 58
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 140
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- PHTQWCKDNZKARW-UHFFFAOYSA-N isoamylol Chemical compound CC(C)CCO PHTQWCKDNZKARW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- -1 Quaternium-33 Chemical compound 0.000 claims description 85
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 73
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 40
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 38
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 32
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 27
- ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dimethylamine Chemical compound CNC ROSDSFDQCJNGOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 24
- 229910052739 hydrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 24
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 24
- WWVIUVHFPSALDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]octadecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C WWVIUVHFPSALDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 24
- 239000001257 hydrogen Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 23
- 125000005528 methosulfate group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 21
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 19
- GGFDFNHQSGONII-UHFFFAOYSA-M (3-docosanoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)-trimethylazanium;chloride Chemical group [Cl-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)C[N+](C)(C)C GGFDFNHQSGONII-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 18
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 229940049292 n-(3-(dimethylamino)propyl)octadecanamide Drugs 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 12
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical group C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 229940079053 quaternium-27 Drugs 0.000 claims description 11
- UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen Chemical compound [H][H] UFHFLCQGNIYNRP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000002431 hydrogen Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims description 9
- FPKBRMRMNGYJLA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 2-hydroxyethyl-methyl-bis(2-octadecanoyloxyethyl)azanium;methyl sulfate Chemical group COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC[N+](C)(CCO)CCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC FPKBRMRMNGYJLA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
- GOOHAUXETOMSMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene oxide Chemical group CC1CO1 GOOHAUXETOMSMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 229940030620 distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 8
- FVKRIDSRWFEQME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-methylbutyl dodecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCC(C)C FVKRIDSRWFEQME-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003581 cosmetic carrier Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229940078565 isoamyl laurate Drugs 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- NZXVYLJKFYSEPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]-16-methylheptadecanamide Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C NZXVYLJKFYSEPO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 5
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 claims description 5
- UCWYGNTYSWIDSW-QXMHVHEDSA-N (z)-n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]octadec-9-enamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C UCWYGNTYSWIDSW-QXMHVHEDSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- TWZQMJMHQQZDPA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-(docosanoylamino)propyl-ethyl-dimethylazanium;ethyl sulfate Chemical compound CCOS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)CC TWZQMJMHQQZDPA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002252 acyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000000623 heterocyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 4
- MNAZHGAWPCLLGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]docosanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C MNAZHGAWPCLLGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- IFYDWYVPVAMGRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]tetradecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C IFYDWYVPVAMGRO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000001449 anionic compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000861 blow drying Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- ORVXZBMRHOUPLQ-HPWRNOGASA-N ethyl-dimethyl-[3-[[(z)-octadec-9-enoyl]amino]propyl]azanium;ethyl sulfate Chemical compound CCOS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)CC ORVXZBMRHOUPLQ-HPWRNOGASA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910001412 inorganic anion Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- YWOAEHAIHZVTFA-UHFFFAOYSA-N methyl sulfate;trimethyl-[3-(octadecanoylamino)propyl]azanium Chemical compound COS([O-])(=O)=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)C YWOAEHAIHZVTFA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- TWMFGCHRALXDAR-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-[3-(dimethylamino)propyl]dodecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCCN(C)C TWMFGCHRALXDAR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002891 organic anions Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000000954 2-hydroxyethyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])O[H] 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001680 brushing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- RAXXELZNTBOGNW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1H-imidazole Chemical group C1=CNC=N1 RAXXELZNTBOGNW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 abstract description 13
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 44
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 37
- 239000000178 monomer Substances 0.000 description 36
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 36
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 28
- ACTIUHUUMQJHFO-UPTCCGCDSA-N coenzyme Q10 Chemical compound COC1=C(OC)C(=O)C(C\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CC\C=C(/C)CCC=C(C)C)=C(C)C1=O ACTIUHUUMQJHFO-UPTCCGCDSA-N 0.000 description 27
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 27
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 26
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 25
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 25
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 25
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 23
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 22
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 22
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 22
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 20
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- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 description 17
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- 229960000984 tocofersolan Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960001295 tocopherol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000015961 tonic Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001256 tonic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229960000716 tonics Drugs 0.000 description 1
- VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-butenedioic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=CC(O)=O VZCYOOQTPOCHFL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-crotonic acid Natural products CC=CC(O)=O LDHQCZJRKDOVOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005208 trialkylammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003918 triazines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940061629 trideceth-9 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- PLSARIKBYIPYPF-UHFFFAOYSA-H trimagnesium dicitrate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[Mg+2].[Mg+2].[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O.[O-]C(=O)CC(O)(CC([O-])=O)C([O-])=O PLSARIKBYIPYPF-UHFFFAOYSA-H 0.000 description 1
- RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl-[2-(2-methylprop-2-enoyloxy)ethyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].CC(=C)C(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C RRHXZLALVWBDKH-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[3-(prop-2-enoylamino)propyl]azanium;chloride Chemical compound [Cl-].C[N+](C)(C)CCCNC(=O)C=C OEIXGLMQZVLOQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N trioctanoin Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCC VLPFTAMPNXLGLX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052722 tritium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229940035936 ubiquinone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003669 ubiquinones Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940057402 undecyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940116269 uric acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000016788 valerian Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920002554 vinyl polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N vitamin A aldehyde Natural products O=CC=C(C)C=CC=C(C)C=CC1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C NCYCYZXNIZJOKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000010374 vitamin B1 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011691 vitamin B1 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019164 vitamin B2 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011716 vitamin B2 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940046001 vitamin b complex Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008170 walnut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000010497 wheat germ oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940118846 witch hazel Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940075420 xanthine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- PICXIOQBANWBIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N zinc;1-oxidopyridine-2-thione Chemical compound [Zn+2].[O-]N1C=CC=CC1=S.[O-]N1C=CC=CC1=S PICXIOQBANWBIZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001841 zingiber officinale Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001928 zirconium oxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000004835 α-tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000002076 α-tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
- A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds
Definitions
- compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair which significantly improve the conditioning properties and the gloss and feel of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, over prior art compositions.
- the compositions according to the invention contain as essential ingredients at least one selected cationic surfactant and at least one selected ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol.
- keratinous fibers especially human hair
- human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations.
- compositions for use on keratinic fibers, in particular human hair not only have to have good cleansing and conditioning and care properties, but should continue to be well tolerated and even with frequent use do not lead to excessive defatting or dryness and split ends.
- the feeling of the keratin fibers after cosmetic treatments is an essential criterion, whether the corresponding composition is perceived by the consumer as pleasant.
- the sensor technology and in particular the feel of a composition are thus essential effects that the consumer can experience.
- compositions which not only care for the keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, but moreover perceptibly and tangibly change their sensory and in particular haptic properties of the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.
- the compositions should regenerate and balance the structure, in particular inside the keratinic fibers, in particular the human hair.
- the compositions should be easy and inexpensive to produce.
- Silicones are known for their excellent hair conditioning properties. However, silicones have the disadvantage that they have to be synthesized with high energy expenditure and in some cases are very persistent in the environment. There is therefore a desire in certain consumer groups for silicone-free cosmetic products. The present application was therefore based on the further object of providing a good hair conditioning agent which offers excellent conditioning properties without the use of silicones.
- a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one selected cationic surfactant and at least one selected ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol, ideally fulfills the stated tasks.
- the use of this combination of active ingredients leads to surprisingly good properties of the treated hair, in particular to improved combing, to improved gloss and to improved elasticity as well as to a markedly increased wash resistance of the color dyed hair, as well as to a longer shelf life with a simultaneous better forming performance Welling procedures, such as water wave and perm, or with smoothing agents for frizzy hair.
- the subject of the present application is therefore a cosmetic composition for the conditioning of keratinic fibers, contained in a cosmetic carrier
- R1, R2 and R3 each independently of one another mean:
- R4 is R8-NH- and only one of R1, R2, R3 is a lone pair and Q is not required, or
- branched or linear alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
- R 2 and R 3 form a cyclic or heterocyclic, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may be substituted by a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, for example an imidazolium group,
- n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
- hydroxyalkylene group having one to four, preferably two to three, carbon atoms which may be branched or linear and which contains one to three hydroxy groups, preferably a group selected from> CHOH, -CH 2 CHOH-, -CHOHCHOH-, -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 - ,> C (CH 2 OH) 2 ,> C (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCHOH-, -CH 2 CH (CH 2 OI-l) - and hydroxybutyl radicals,
- R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30, preferably 1 1 to 21, particularly preferably 15 to 17, carbon atoms containing at least one hydroxy group and optionally can furthermore be alkoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or
- R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 can be alkoxylated to 100 propylene oxide units, or
- R 8 -NH- in which R 8 represents a linear or branched acyl or alkyl radical having in each case 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or substituted by at least one OH group, and
- Q is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, if none of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 is a free electron pair,
- Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof.
- the hair conditioning compositions such as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair oils and lotions both as leave-on, so as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so few seconds to a few hours after the Application again rinsed products, understood by the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.
- combability is meant according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.
- the tactility of a fiber collective is defined as the handle, whereby the person skilled in the art sensibly Feel and evaluate the "fullness” and “suppleness” of the fiber collective.
- Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
- Restructuring in the context of the invention is to be understood as a reduction of the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to a great variety of influences.
- the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role.
- Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, improved grip and ease of combing.
- they have improved strength and elasticity.
- a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.
- wash fastness is to be understood as meaning the preservation of the original color with regard to nuance and / or intensity when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents such as shampoos.
- compositions according to the invention comprising the combination of active substances according to the invention are distinguished by a markedly improved state of the keratinic fibers with respect to the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers.
- the combination of active substances according to the invention leads to a clear protection of the keratinic fibers from the effects of heat, for example during blow-drying of keratinic fibers.
- compositions according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers.
- the cosmetic carrier according to the invention is preferably an aqueous cosmetic carrier which contains at least 30% by weight of water, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
- aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention, of at least one C 2 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, especially 3-methyl-1-butanol, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, ethylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentane diol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand.
- the compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol or
- Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat 1-3) are the first group of compulsory ingredients of the compositions according to the invention.
- Q is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example, halides such as chloride or
- Preferred physiologically acceptable anion Q are halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions, ethosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates, ethosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.
- the at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat 1-3) is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, most preferably from 1.5 to 4.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition.
- a first preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1 -3), wherein R1 and R2 and R3 are methyl and
- A represents a linear hydroxyalkylene group having three carbon atoms containing a hydroxy group, preferably the group -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 -, and
- R4 stands for R6-COO-
- R 6 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 1 1 to 21 carbon atoms and
- Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
- a particularly preferred cationic surfactant of this type is selected from 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
- Cationic surfactants of this type are preferably in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3.0 Wt .-%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
- a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3) in which
- R1 is methyl
- R 2 is 2-hydroxyethyl
- R3 is the radical (- A - R4) and
- A stands for the group -CH2-CH2-
- R4 stands for R6-COO-
- R 6 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 1 1 to 21, preferably 15 to 17, carbon atoms and Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
- a particularly preferred cationic surfactant of this type is selected from distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
- Another, also particularly preferred, cationic surfactant of this type is selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates.
- Cationic surfactants of this type preferably selected from distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates, are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight. -%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
- Such surfactants are also known as esterquats, and are sold for example under the trade names Rewoquat ®, Stepantex ®, Dehyquart ® and Armocare ®.
- a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3), wherein R 1 is methyl and
- R 2 and R 3 form a heterocyclic unsaturated alkylene group substituted with a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl group of 6 to 20 carbon atoms,
- A stands for the group -CH2-CH2-
- R4 is R8-NH-
- R8 is a linear acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 20 C atoms, which is saturated or unsaturated, and
- Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
- a particularly preferred cationic surfactant of this type is selected from Quaternium-87.
- Another, also particularly preferred, cationic surfactant of this type is selected from quaternium-27.
- Cationic surfactants of this type are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight. -%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
- a further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3) in which R 1 and R 2 are methyl and
- R3 is hydrogen or a free electron pair
- A represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - and
- R4 is R8-NH- and R 8 is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 20 C atoms, particularly preferably 12 to 18 C atoms, which is saturated or unsaturated, and Q is methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride, if R3 is hydrogen.
- Cationic surfactants of this type are also referred to as amidoamines.
- R3 is a lone pair of electrons, and the presence of an anion Q is not required.
- the amidoamines are quaternized, that is, R3 is hydrogen, and charge equalization requires an anion Q.
- R 1 is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C - Atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
- amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 1, R 2 and / or R 3 in the formula (Tkat 1-3) are a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen has.
- the preferred value for n in the placeholder A of the general formula (Tkat 1-3) is an integer between 2 and 5.
- the alkylamidoamines can be present as such or be converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic acylamidoamines are preferred.
- Preferred amidoamines of the invention are Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 801), Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Adogen ® S18V or Tego ® S 18 or amide Incromine ® SB), Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. SCHERCODINE M () Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine z. B. LEXAMINE 22) Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine phosphates, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ® 101) Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B.
- Mackine ® 201) Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 401), Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ® 501), behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 601, Incromine ® BD), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates (z. B. Mackalene 1 ® 17), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (e.g. (. B. Mackalene 1 ® 16), Ricinoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate z. B.
- Mackalene 216 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (Mackalene 316), behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene ® 616) Sunfl owerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine lactates (e.g. B. Mackalene 1216), Dimethylamine Palmamidopropyl, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Glycolate, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate, and examples of permanent cationic amidoamine.
- Quaternium-33 (eg Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50) , behenamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ® BAS), behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat AMG-BEO ®), Oleamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat AMG-O ®), Cocamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ® CAS), Cocamidopropyltrimoniumchloride (z. B.
- amidoamines are Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine, Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33, Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Rinoleamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearamid
- amidoamines stearamidopropyl dimethylamines particularly preferred are amidoamines stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, cocamidopropyl dimethylamines, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamines, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamines, oleamidopropyl dimethylamines, behenamidopropyl dimethylamines, palmamidopropyl dimethylamines, quaternium-33 and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates.
- stearamidopropyl dimethylamines particularly preferred are stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, cocamidopropyl dimethylamines, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamines, behenamidopropyl dimethylamines and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates. Most preferred is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
- amidoamines can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, wherein they are present in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably in a total amount of from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight and more particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.5 to 1, 5 wt .-%, are included, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
- compositions preferred according to the invention comprise a mixture of the cationic surfactant types as characterized respectively in the subclaims 2 and 3, 4 and 5, 6 and 7 and 8 and 9.
- Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain one of the following surfactant combinations:
- the second group of the inventively mandatory ingredients are esters of 3-methyl-1-butanol, which is also referred to as isoamyl alcohol, with an acid of the general formula R'COOH, where R 'is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical with 7 to 29, preferably 1 1 to 21, carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxy group.
- R'COOH an acid of the general formula R'COOH, where R 'is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical with 7 to 29, preferably 1 1 to 21, carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxy group.
- the said isoamyl esters are oils with exceptional hair-conditioning properties.
- isoamylcaprylate isoamylcaprinate, isoamylcaprate, isoamyl laurate, isoamyl myristate, isoamyl palmitate, isoamyl stearate, isoamyl oleate, isoamyl linoleate, isoamyl linoleate and isoamyl behenate and mixtures of these substances.
- Isoamyl laurate is extremely preferred according to the invention.
- compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol (isoamyl alcohol) with an acid of the general formula R'COOH according to claim 1 in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
- Extremely preferred compositions according to the invention contain isoamyl laurate in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
- compositions according to the invention for further enhancing the hair-conditioning action of the combination of cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat 1-3) and the iso-amylester b) comprise at least one cationic polymer in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight. , based on the weight of the composition.
- Preferred cationic polymers are selected from the following cationic polymers:
- Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic ones
- Guar. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a RbRc A ⁇
- G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose
- B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
- R a , Rb and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , Rb and R c is preferably not more than 20;
- a " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
- the cationic celluloses are preferred.
- Cationic celluloses are available in the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights.
- the following cationic celluloses are highly preferred according to the invention.
- Polyquaternium-67 (Amerchol) is available commercially for example under the names Polymer ® SL or polymer ® SK. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodonium hydroxyethyl cellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
- Suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers
- A1 from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)
- X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate, A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,
- the monomer A2 is 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total
- hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that the ratio of (Y: z) 4: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 4: 1 to 1: 1 amounts to.
- hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer A has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20 million gmor, preferably from 100,000 to 10 million gmol ⁇ 1 , more preferably from 500,000 to 5 million gmo and especially from 1, 1 million to 2.2 million gmol -1 .
- a most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
- Another highly preferred cationic synthetic polymer is an optionally crosslinked homopolymer, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.
- Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).
- the homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion.
- Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade.
- Hair treatment agents according to the invention contain Polyquaternium-37 by weight in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt.%, More preferably 0, 0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%.
- compositions of the invention may further contain at least one sugar surfactant.
- nonionic surfactants are those based on sugar. On the one hand, this is preferably an alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside.
- These nonionic emulsifiers are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I),
- R is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms
- G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms
- p is a number from 1 to 10.
- the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.
- the preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides.
- the index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), d. H.
- the value p for a particular alkyloligoglycoside is a analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number.
- the alkyl or alkenyl radical R can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
- Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, iso-stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, natural fatty alcohols such as coconut alcohol and technical mixtures , .
- Oramix® examples are - grades from Seppic, for example Oramix® NS 10 Plantacare® ® - types, such as Plantacare® ® 2000UP, Plantacare® ® 1200UP, Plantacare® ® 810UP, Plantacare® ® 818UP.
- sugar-based emulsifier may be a fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide of formula (II),
- R 3 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
- the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose.
- the preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (III):
- the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (III) in which R 3 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 2 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures.
- the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
- the nonionic sugar-based surfactant is preferably contained in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.001-3.0% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01-2.0% by weight are particularly preferred.
- compositions according to the invention may optionally contain further conventional ingredients. These are especially added to give the compositions further desired To impart properties such as dandruff or volume enhancement effects. These ingredients will now be described.
- fatty alcohols As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear fatty alcohols. Saturated and linear fatty alcohols are preferably used with a C chain length of C6-C18, preferably Cs-C18, and most preferably C10-C16. Mono- or polyunsaturated fatty alcohols and also branched and unsaturated or branched and saturated fatty alcohols are preferably used with a C chain length of C6-C30, preferably C10 to C22 and very particularly preferably of C12-C22.
- the fatty alcohols are preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 2-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
- fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (BASF) fatty acids.
- fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
- Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
- the amount used is 0, 1 to 3 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
- the amount is preferably 0.5-2% by weight, with amounts of 0.8-1% by weight being particularly advantageous.
- cosmetic oils which are different from the obligatory isoamyl esters may additionally be present.
- these oil bodies have a melting point less than 50 ° C, more preferably less than 45 ° C, most preferably less than 40 ° C, most preferably less than 35 ° C and most preferably the cosmetic oils at a temperature less than 30 ° C flowable.
- these oils are defined and described in more detail.
- Suitable cosmetic oils include:
- Ester oils having an alcohol component other than isoamyl alcohol are esters of polybasic or polybasic C6-C30 fatty acids with mono- or polyvalent C2 - C30 - fatty alcohols (without isoamyl alcohol) to understand. Preference is given to the monoesters of fatty acids with monohydric alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
- fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
- fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, nonyl alcohol, isononyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, Elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
- ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.
- the alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils.
- R 1 in this case represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
- AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide
- X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
- R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
- fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
- ester oils examples include benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethyl hexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleole alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof.
- a particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.
- ester oils are to be understood as meaning:
- Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate) , Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, as well as
- Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures.
- Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petro-, linoleic Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preference is given to using oleic acid monoglycerides.
- oils examples include amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, grapefruit seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil , Corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, wheat germ oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
- triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
- ester oils are isopropyl myristate, glycerin carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristates, cetyl oleate and oleyl erucate and mixtures of at least two of these ester oils. Most preferred are mixtures of ester oils when one of the ester oils is dicaprylyl carbonate or isopropyl myristate. Most preferred are mixtures of and with these two ester oils.
- ester oils with the latter two oils are in a ratio of 10: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably 5 : 1 to 3: 1 with respect to the respective amounts of the ester oils.
- the at least one ester oil is present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, maximum preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
- the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
- the total amount is 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-1.5% by weight and more preferably
- Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
- Sterols both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
- Phospholipids lecithins, phopshatidylcholines
- Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol
- Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
- emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention may be phospholipids.
- phospholipid both natural and synthetic phospholipids are useful. Preferred are phospholipids on a natural basis.
- phospholipids in particular compounds of the formula (phosphol-I) can be used.
- y is an integer of 0 to 2
- x is an integer of 1 to 3, provided that the sum of x and y is 3.
- M is hydrogen, one equivalent of an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups.
- M is a sodium cation.
- B in the formula (Phosphol-I) of the phospholipids to be used according to the invention is one equivalent of a physiologically tolerated anion.
- anion e.g. Chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and tetrachlorozincate.
- the chloride ion e.g. Chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and tetrachlorozincate.
- the chloride ion e.g. Chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and tetrachlorozincate.
- the chloride ion e.g. Chloride, bromid
- R in the formula (phosphol-1) is a radical of the formula (II) in which z is an integer from 1 to 4, in particular 3, and R and R 2 independently of one another are a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy group (s) or an acyl group.
- A represents, according to the invention, one of the moieties -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH 2 -CH 2 - or
- (B) a branched or linear, mono- or polyunsaturated Cs to Cis acyl radical.
- Particularly preferred saturated radicals R 3 are the radical of stearic acid and also the radicals of the mixture of the fatty acids which are obtained from coconut oil.
- a particularly preferred unsaturated radical R 3 is the radical of linoleic acid.
- Examples of the ci to C4-alkyl groups mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl groups are preferred alkyl groups. Very particular preference is given to methyl groups.
- Very particularly preferred phospholipids of the formula (phosphol-1) are the substances known under the INCI names linoleneamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA® , Phospholipid PTC® and Phospholipid SV® .
- glycerol phospholipids which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines, for example from egg yolk or plant seeds, in particular soybeans, are used as phospholipids according to the invention.
- Phospholipids are in particular phosphoglycerides.
- Glycero-phospholipids which are particularly suitable according to the invention are obtained from soybeans.
- the phosphatidylcholines, phosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidylserines and phosphatidylinositols and mixtures of these substances are particularly preferred.
- the particularly preferred phosphatidylcholines have the formula (phosphol-II),
- the radicals R and R 2 each independently of one another are an acyl group of fatty acids having a carbon number of 8 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and particularly preferably 12 to 22 C atoms.
- the Fettchu rereste can be both saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated.
- the saturated acyl radicals of C 12 -C 22 -fatty acids are preferred.
- phosphatidylethanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are those of the formula (phospholyl) or (phosphol-11b),
- radicals R and R 2 have the same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-III). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylethanolamines in which R and R 2 independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearoyl radical.
- phosphatidylserines preferred according to the invention are those of the structural formula (IIIa) or (IIIb) (Phosphatidylserine purple)
- R and R 2 have the same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-II). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylserines in which R and R 2 independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearyl radical.
- the phosphatidylinositols preferred according to the invention have the structural formula (IVa) or (IVb)
- radicals R and R 2 have the same meaning as set forth for formula (phosphol-II).
- acyl radicals of palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid are preferred; particularly preferred is a stearic acid acyl radical.
- R 2 is particularly preferably a linear saturated C 2- fatty acid acyl radical (arachoyl radical).
- the glycerophospholipids used according to the invention have an iodine value of not more than 10, preferably of not more than 5.
- a preferred phospholipid according to the invention is commercially available under the name Emulmetik® 100 (BASF).
- the phospholipids according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.1% by weight to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight % up to 3% by weight and most preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 1.5 wt%.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
- the cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary Pyrrolidones, eg Alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts.
- the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
- the ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.
- Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, particularly preferably C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups.
- Suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).
- cationic polymers for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred suitable.
- cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer.
- R -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4-
- Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
- Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following Conditions are: R is a methyl group, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups, m is 2.
- Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
- Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. BASF under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules.
- a suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®.
- a preferred chitosan is carboxylate Chitosoniumpyrrolidon- that is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA.
- Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
- honey for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
- polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid Under the names Merquat ® 100 (poly (dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer), commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are sold under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 are offered,
- Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
- copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ® HS 1 10, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 are available.
- cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, for example fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates.
- the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products.
- the additional cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers.
- the term "amphoteric polymers” encompasses both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SCbH groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SCb ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO3H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
- Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers: (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),
- R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
- R 6 and R 7 are independently an (O to C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
- R 8 -CH CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
- R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
- acrylic acid is preferably used as the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned.
- Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3).
- amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
- amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer
- R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8) -alkyl group.
- Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
- amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
- amphoteric polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
- anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
- the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
- Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
- Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
- the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ® 1 1-80 is.
- copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer are referred to the substances listed above.
- Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
- Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
- Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
- anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
- Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers.
- a 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
- the anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
- Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
- Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF).
- Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each Vinylpyrro- lidon / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
- Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules).
- Starch and its derivatives in particular starch, such as Structure XL ® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
- the nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- the preparations used have several, in particular which contain two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and a amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
- the polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. These ingredients are described below.
- the dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
- Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil):
- Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil 1):
- the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
- the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
- the molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
- the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
- Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps.
- the most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps.
- Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)
- x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
- the dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0, 1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.
- Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.
- Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)
- R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6
- Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ
- R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
- Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group
- b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
- a + b is less than or equal to 3
- c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
- x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
- y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about
- M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
- Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group.
- a possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2) z NH 2, where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1.
- Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2) z (CH 2) zzNH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl.
- Said Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical.
- Z is -N (CH 2) z (CH 2) zzNX 2 or -NX 2, wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
- Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2.
- ⁇ assumes values in the range of 0 to 2
- b takes values in the range of 2 to 3
- a + b is less than or equal to 3
- c is a number in the range of 1 to 3.
- cationic silicone oils such as those commercially available available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).
- Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)
- n and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
- silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
- compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
- R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci to C20) -
- R ' represents -OH, a (C1 to C2o) alkoxy group or a -CH3 group and
- n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values of
- silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant).
- Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [RR 2 R 3 N + - A - SiR 7 R 8 - (O-SiR 9 R 0) n - O - SiR R 12 - A - N + R 4 R 5 R 6 ] 2X " (Si 3c)
- R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,
- radicals R 7 to R 12 independently of one another, are identical or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl,
- A is a divalent organic compound group
- n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X "is an anion.
- the divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH 2 ) 3-0-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -.
- the anion X " may be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO3 " , wherein R has the meaning of C1 to C4 alkyl radicals.
- a preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)
- A is the group - (CH 2 ) 3 - O - CH 2 - CH (OH) - CH 2 -,
- R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.
- Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are among
- Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8
- Wt.% Particularly preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.2 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional (s) silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.
- the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound.
- the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones.
- Baysilone TP 391 1, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred.
- Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 391 1 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention.
- the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt .-%, each with respect to the total composition included.
- EP 1887024 A1 describes novel cationic amino-functional silicones which in particular improve the gloss in agents for the care of surfaces, for example human hair.
- These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and at least one polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure.
- Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are, in addition to the compounds of the aforementioned EP 1887024 A1, in particular the compounds with the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-1 1, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw
- the abovementioned cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight .% contain.
- the very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt.%, In each case based on the total composition of the respective agent.
- the cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention.
- cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
- x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
- Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)
- R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the Ci-20-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , x and y represent a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.
- silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclo-methicones, water-soluble silicones can be present in the compositions according to the invention.
- Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7).
- Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
- Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
- radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group
- radicals R 'and R denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms
- x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30
- y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10
- a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30 ,
- dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING.
- Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.
- the dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
- the dimethiconols preferred according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
- Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):
- Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):
- the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
- the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
- the molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
- the viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
- Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
- Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).
- the dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.
- compositions according to the invention with the combination of active substances according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives (P).
- protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
- Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
- Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
- Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (BASF), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda), Crotein ® (Croda) and Puricare ® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobi unanimouss.
- protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.
- pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
- the protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.
- compositions of the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidi- ⁇ -5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
- the sodium salt is most preferred.
- the A- set amounts in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
- compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient combination according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
- Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
- vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
- the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
- vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
- the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
- the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a. Vitamin B1 (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), vitamin B3: under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often used.
- Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent; Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
- panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
- Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
- Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention; Vitamin ⁇ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
- the stated compounds of the vitamin B type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
- Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
- Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
- Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
- Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
- Vitamin H As vitamin H, the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imide azol-4-valeric acid, for which, however, has now prevailed the trivial name biotin.
- Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
- compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
- a particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalaines, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bi- tartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in US Pat Literature referred to as betaine compound ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ trimethylglycine.
- Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used.
- the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
- taurine is exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative is understood to mean the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine.
- Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine.
- Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
- agents according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included.
- the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones.
- suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
- the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
- Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.
- compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges.
- preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).
- Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic Preparations caffeine is most preferred.
- the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.
- agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from A group formed by carnitine, taurine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a B-series vitamin, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
- the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter.
- UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
- oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
- 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
- Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
- Esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
- benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
- Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
- Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and
- Propane-1,3-diones e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
- Suitable water-soluble substances are:
- Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
- UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione.
- the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures.
- insoluble pigments in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates, are also suitable for this purpose.
- the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
- plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further advantages.
- the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
- the cosmetic agents may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, acidulants such as citric acid and lactic acid, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, zinc Omadine and climbazole, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ⁇ -alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments, stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidants, blowing agents such as Propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air, antioxidants, perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.
- auxiliaries and additives such as, for example, acidulants such as cit
- a further subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for improving the resistance of the surface of keratinic fibers to physical damage.
- Physical damage is understood according to the invention to be the action of UV light, the action of heat during blow-drying, mechanical effects during combing and brushing of the hair.
- Another object of the present invention is the use of a composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for improving the washout stability of the color of dyed keratinic fibers.
- Another subject of the invention is a hair treatment process in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time.
- the exposure time is preferably 5 seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 45 minutes, and most preferably 2 to 30 minutes.
- a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there.
- “remaining on the hair” means that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after it has been used, but in this case the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash.
- hair conditioner formulation according to the invention was provided using known preparation methods:
- the following two hair conditioner formulations (according to the invention, comparative formulation) were applied to 5 persons in the half-side test and assessed their application properties by 2 trained hairdressers.
- the hair of the test persons was first washed with a shampoo. Subsequently, the main hair was parted: on one half of the head, the hair was treated with the conditioner according to the invention, on the other half of the head, the hair was treated with the non-inventive conditioner.
- hair conditioner according to the invention
- the assessment values are from a scale of zero to 1. Values below 0.25 represent statistically insignificant differences. Values of 0.25 to 0.5 represent a small improvement over the comparison recipe. Values above 0.5 represent a statistically significant improvement over the comparison formula.
- the formulation of the invention helped the treated hair to improved feel and shine of the dry hair. This effect was also detectable after further hair washing and drying (without conditioner application) (test parameter "long-term effect").
- Cetearyl alcohol (31, 5% by weight)
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Abstract
The present invention describes compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which significantly improve the conditioning properties and the shine and the feel of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in relation to compositions of the prior art. The compositions according to the invention contain, as essential ingredients, at least one selected cationic surfactant and at least one selected ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol.
Description
"Konditioniermittel für keratinische Fasern mit Silikonersatz" "Keratin fiber conditioning agent with silicone substitute"
Die vorliegende Erfindung beschreibt Zusammensetzungen zur Behandlung von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren, welche die konditionierenden Eigenschaften sowie den Glanz und die Haptik von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren, gegenüber Zusammensetzungen des Standes der Technik deutlich verbessern. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen enthalten als wesentliche Inhaltsstoffe mindestens ein ausgewähltes kationisches Tensid und mindestens einen ausgewählten Ester von 3-Methyl-1-butanol. The present invention describes compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which significantly improve the conditioning properties and the gloss and feel of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, over prior art compositions. The compositions according to the invention contain as essential ingredients at least one selected cationic surfactant and at least one selected ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol.
Die kosmetische Behandlung keratinischer Fasern, insbesondere von menschlichen Haaren, ist ein wichtiger Bestandteil der menschlichen Körperpflege. So wird menschliches Haar heute in vielfältiger Weise mit haarkosmetischen Zubereitungen behandelt. The cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations.
Es besteht weiterhin ein Bedarf nach Wirkstoffen bzw. Wirkstoffkombinationen für kosmetische Mittel mit guten pflegenden Eigenschaften und guter biologischer Abbaubarkeit. Weiterhin ist die Verträglichkeit der kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen ein außerordentlich wichtiges Kriterium. Zusammensetzungen zur Anwendung auf keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren, müssen nicht nur ein gutes Reinigungs- und Konditionier- sowie Pflegevermögen aufweisen, sondern sollen weiterhin gut verträglich sein und auch bei häufiger Anwendung nicht zu starker Entfettung oder Trockenheit und Spliss führen. Das Anfühlen der keratinischen Fasern nach kosmetischen Behandlungen ist ein wesentliches Kriterium, ob die entsprechende Zusammensetzung vom Verbraucher als angenehm empfunden wird. Die Sensorik und insbesondere die Haptik einer Zusammensetzung sind somit wesentliche Effekte, die der Verbraucher erleben kann. Gesucht sind daher genau solche Zusammensetzungen, welche nicht nur die keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschliches Haar, pflegen, sondern darüber hinaus durch ihre sensorischen und insbesondere haptischen Eigenschaften der Oberfläche von keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren, spürbar und erlebbar verändern. Darüber hinaus sollen die Zusammensetzungen insbesondere im Inneren der keratinischen Fasern, insbesondere der menschlichen Haare, die Struktur regenerieren und ausgleichen. Gleichzeitig sollen die Zusammensetzungen einfach und kostengünstig produziert werden können. Silicone sind bekannt für ihre hervorragenden Haar konditionierenden Eigenschaften. Silicone haben allerdings den Nachteil, dass sie mit hohem energetischen Aufwand synthetisiert werden müssen und in der Umwelt teilweise sehr persistent sind. In bestimmten Verbrauchergruppen besteht daher der Wunsch nach Silicon-freien kosmetischen Mitteln. Der vorliegenden Anmeldung lag daher als weitere Aufgabe zu Grunde, ein gutes Haar konditionierendes Mittel bereitzustellen, das ohne den Einsatz von Silico- nen hervorragende Konditioniderungseigenschaften bietet. There is still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. Compositions for use on keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, not only have to have good cleansing and conditioning and care properties, but should continue to be well tolerated and even with frequent use do not lead to excessive defatting or dryness and split ends. The feeling of the keratin fibers after cosmetic treatments is an essential criterion, whether the corresponding composition is perceived by the consumer as pleasant. The sensor technology and in particular the feel of a composition are thus essential effects that the consumer can experience. Therefore, precisely those compositions are sought which not only care for the keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, but moreover perceptibly and tangibly change their sensory and in particular haptic properties of the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair. In addition, the compositions should regenerate and balance the structure, in particular inside the keratinic fibers, in particular the human hair. At the same time, the compositions should be easy and inexpensive to produce. Silicones are known for their excellent hair conditioning properties. However, silicones have the disadvantage that they have to be synthesized with high energy expenditure and in some cases are very persistent in the environment. There is therefore a desire in certain consumer groups for silicone-free cosmetic products. The present application was therefore based on the further object of providing a good hair conditioning agent which offers excellent conditioning properties without the use of silicones.
Es hat sich nun jedoch völlig überraschend gezeigt, dass eine kosmetische Zusammensetzung, enthaltend in einem kosmetischen Träger mindestens ein ausgewähltes kationisches Tensid und mindestens einen ausgewählten Ester von 3-Methyl-1 -butanol, die gestellten Aufgaben in idealer Weise erfüllt.
Beim Einsatz dieser Wirkstoffkombination kommt es zu überraschend guten Eigenschaften des behandelten Haares, insbesondere zu verbesserten Kämmbarkeiten, zu verbessertem Glanz und zu einer verbesserten Elastizität als auch zu einer deutlich gesteigerten Waschbeständigkeit der Farbe gefärbten Haares, sowie zu einer längeren Haltbarkeit bei einer gleichzeitigen besseren Umformleistung bei Wellvorgängen, wie Wasserwelle und Dauerwelle, oder bei Glättungsmitteln für krauses Haar. However, it has now surprisingly been found that a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetic carrier, at least one selected cationic surfactant and at least one selected ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol, ideally fulfills the stated tasks. The use of this combination of active ingredients leads to surprisingly good properties of the treated hair, in particular to improved combing, to improved gloss and to improved elasticity as well as to a markedly increased wash resistance of the color dyed hair, as well as to a longer shelf life with a simultaneous better forming performance Welling procedures, such as water wave and perm, or with smoothing agents for frizzy hair.
Gegenstand der vorliegenden Anmeldung ist daher eine kosmetische Zusammensetzung zur Konditionierung von keratinischen Fasern, enthaltend in einem kosmetischen Träger The subject of the present application is therefore a cosmetic composition for the conditioning of keratinic fibers, contained in a cosmetic carrier
a) mindestens ein kationisches Tensid der Formel (Tkat1 -3), a) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat1 -3),
R2 R2
R1 N— A— R4 Q R1 N- A- R4 Q
R3 R3
(Tkat1-3) (Tkat1-3)
worin R1 , R2 und R3 jeweils unabhängig voneinander bedeuten: in which R1, R2 and R3 each independently of one another mean:
Wasserstoff, mit der Maßgabe, dass R4 für R8-NH- steht, oder Hydrogen, with the proviso that R4 is R8 -NH-, or
ein freies Elektronenpaar, mit der Maßgabe, dass R4 für R8-NH- steht und nur einer der Reste R1 , R2, R3 für ein freies Elektronenpaar steht und Q nicht erforderlich ist, oder a free electron pair, provided that R4 is R8-NH- and only one of R1, R2, R3 is a lone pair and Q is not required, or
einen verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder a branched or linear alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, der mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder den Rest (- A - R4), mit der Maßgabe, dass höchstens 2 der Reste R1 , R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können, oder a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or the radical (--A - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 represent this radical can, or
R2 und R3 bilden eine zyklische oder heterozyklische, gegebenenfalls ungesättigte Alkylengruppe, die mit einem gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 6 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen substituiert sein kann, beispielsweise eine Imidazoliumgruppe, R 2 and R 3 form a cyclic or heterocyclic, optionally unsaturated alkylene group which may be substituted by a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, for example an imidazolium group,
und steht A für: and A stands for:
1 ) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 2 - 3, oder 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 2 - 3, or
2) -(CH2-CHR5-0)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl, 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
3) eine Hydroxyalkylengruppe mit ein bis vier, bevorzugt zwei bis drei, Kohlenstoffatomen, die verzweigt oder linear sein kann und die eine bis drei Hydroxygruppen enthält, bevorzugt eine Gruppe, ausgewählt aus >CHOH, -CH2CHOH-, -CHOHCHOH-, -CH2CHOHCH2-, >C(CH2OH)2, >C(CH2OH)2, -CH2CHOHCHOH-,
-CH2CH(CH2OI-l)- und Hydroxybutylresten, 3) a hydroxyalkylene group having one to four, preferably two to three, carbon atoms which may be branched or linear and which contains one to three hydroxy groups, preferably a group selected from> CHOH, -CH 2 CHOH-, -CHOHCHOH-, -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 - ,> C (CH 2 OH) 2 ,> C (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCHOH-, -CH 2 CH (CH 2 OI-l) - and hydroxybutyl radicals,
und R4 steht für: and R4 stands for:
- R6-COO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30, bevorzugt 1 1 bis 21 , besonders bevorzugt 15 bis 17, Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt, der mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten und gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxidein- heiten oxalkyliert sein kann, oder - R6-COO-, wherein R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30, preferably 1 1 to 21, particularly preferably 15 to 17, carbon atoms containing at least one hydroxy group and optionally can furthermore be alkoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units, or
- R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxalkyliert sein kann, oder - R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 can be alkoxylated to 100 propylene oxide units, or
R8-NH-, worin R8 einen linearen oder verzweigten Acyl- oder Alkylrest mit jeweils 6 bis 30 C-Atomen darstellt, der gesättigt oder ungesättigt und/oder mit mindestens einer OH-Gruppe substituiert kann, und R 8 -NH-, in which R 8 represents a linear or branched acyl or alkyl radical having in each case 6 to 30 C atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or substituted by at least one OH group, and
und Q für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion steht, falls keiner der Reste R1 , R2, R3 für ein freies Elektronenpaar steht, and Q is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, if none of the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 is a free electron pair,
weiterhin Farther
b) mindestens einen Ester von 3-Methyl-1-butanol mit einer Säure der allgemeinen Formel R'COOH, wobei R' einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 7 bis 29, bevorzugt 1 1 bis 21 , Kohlenstoffatomen, der mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, darstellt, b) at least one ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol with an acid of the general formula R'COOH, wherein R 'is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical having 7 to 29, preferably 1 1 to 21, carbon atoms which is at least may contain a hydroxy group,
wobei bevorzugt das mindestens eine kationische Tensid der Formel (Tkat1-3) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 1 ,0 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt von 1 ,5 bis 4,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist. preferably the at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat1-3) in a total amount of 0.2 to 10.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1, 0 to 5.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 1, 5 to 4.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition is included.
Haarbehandlungsmittel im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind beispielsweise Haarshampoos, Haarkonditionierer, konditionierende Shampoos, Haarspülungen, Haarkuren, Haarpackungen, Haar-Tonics, Haarfärbeshampoos oder deren Kombinationen. Insbesondere werden das Haar konditionierende Zusammensetzungen wie Haarspülungen, Haarkuren, Haarpackungen, Haaröle und -lotionen sowohl als leave-on, also als auf dem Haar bis zur nächsten Haarwäsche verbleibende Produkte, als auch als rinse-off, also wenige Sekunden bis wenige Stunden nach der Anwendung wieder auszuspülende Produkte, unter den erfindungsgemäßen Haarbehandlungsmitteln verstanden. Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof. In particular, the hair conditioning compositions such as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair oils and lotions both as leave-on, so as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so few seconds to a few hours after the Application again rinsed products, understood by the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.
Unter Kämmbarkeit versteht man erfindungsgemäß sowohl die Kämmbarkeit der nassen Faser als auch die Kämmbarkeit der trockenen Faser. By combability is meant according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.
Als Griff definiert sich die Taktilität eines Faserkollektivs, wobei der Fachmann sensorisch die Para-
meter„Fülle" und„Geschmeidigkeit" des Faserkollektivs fühlt und bewertet. The tactility of a fiber collective is defined as the handle, whereby the person skilled in the art sensibly Feel and evaluate the "fullness" and "suppleness" of the fiber collective.
Unter Formgebung wird die Fähigkeit verstanden, einem Kollektiv zuvor behandelter keratinhaltiger Fasern, insbesondere menschlicher Haare, eine Formänderung zu verleihen. In der Haarkosmetik wird auch von Frisierbarkeit gesprochen. Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.
Unter Restrukturierung im Sinne der Erfindung, ist eine Verringerung der durch verschiedenartigste Einflüsse entstandenen Schädigungen keratinischer Fasern zu verstehen. Hierbei spielt beispielsweise die Wiederherstellung der natürlichen Festigkeit eine wesentliche Rolle. Restrukturierte Fasern zeichnen sich durch einen verbesserten Glanz, durch einen verbesserten Griff und durch eine leichtere Kämmbarkeit aus. Zusätzlich weisen sie eine verbesserte Festigkeit und Elastizität auf. Ferner läßt sich eine erfolgreiche Restrukturierung physikalisch als Schmelzpunktserhöhung im Vergleich zur geschädigten Faser nachweisen. Je höher der Schmelzpunkt des Haares ist, desto fester ist die Struktur der Faser. Restructuring in the context of the invention is to be understood as a reduction of the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to a great variety of influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, improved grip and ease of combing. In addition, they have improved strength and elasticity. Furthermore, a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.
Unter Waschechtheit im Sinne der Erfindung ist die Erhaltung der ursprünglichen Färbung hinsichtlich Nuance und/oder Intensität zu verstehen, wenn die keratinische Faser dem wiederholten Ein- fluss von wässrigen Mitteln, insbesondere tensidhaltigen Mitteln wie Shampoos, ausgesetzt wird. Weiterhin zeichnen sich die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen enthaltend die erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffkombination durch einen deutlich verbesserten Zustand der keratinischen Fasern in Bezug auf den Feuchtehaushalt der keratinischen Fasern aus. Weiterhin führt die erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffkombination zu einem deutlichen Schutz der keratinischen Fasern vor Hitzeeinwirkungen, beispielsweise beim Föhnen keratinischer Fasern. Der Schutz der Oberfläche von keratinischen Fasern vor Hitzeeinwirkung ist insbesondere bei der Verwendung von Glätteisen oder Haartrocknern von großer Bedeutung. Schließlich wurde überraschender Weise festgestellt, dass die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen zu einer deutlich verzögerten Wiederan- schmutzung der keratinischen Fasern führen. For the purposes of the invention, "wash fastness" is to be understood as meaning the preservation of the original color with regard to nuance and / or intensity when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents such as shampoos. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention comprising the combination of active substances according to the invention are distinguished by a markedly improved state of the keratinic fibers with respect to the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers. Furthermore, the combination of active substances according to the invention leads to a clear protection of the keratinic fibers from the effects of heat, for example during blow-drying of keratinic fibers. The protection of the surface of keratinic fibers from the effects of heat is of great importance, in particular when using straighteners or hair dryers. Finally, it has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers.
Der erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Träger ist bevorzugt ein wässriger kosmetischer Träger, der mindestens 30 Gew.-% Wasser, bezogen auf das Gewicht der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung, enthält. The cosmetic carrier according to the invention is preferably an aqueous cosmetic carrier which contains at least 30% by weight of water, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
Unter wässrig-alkoholischen kosmetischen Trägern sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung wässrige Lösungen, enthaltend 3 bis 50 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung, mindestens eines C2-C6-Alkohols, insbesondere Ethanol bzw. Propa- nol, Isopropanol, 1 ,2-Propylenglykol, Butanol, Isobutanol, tert.-Butanol, n-Pentanol, iso-Pentanole, insbesondere 3-Methyl-1 -butanol, n-Hexanol, iso-Hexanole, Ethylenglycol, Glycerin, 1 ,2-Pentan- diol, 1 ,5-Pentandiol, 2-Methyl-2,4-pentandiol, 1 ,2-Hexandiol oder 1 ,6-Hexandiol, zu verstehen. Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können zusätzlich weitere organische Lösemittel, wie beispielsweise Methoxybutanol, Benzylalkohol oder Ethyldiglykol enthalten. Bevorzugt sind dabei alle wasserlöslichen organischen Lösemittel. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention, of at least one C 2 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, especially 3-methyl-1-butanol, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, ethylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentane diol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol or ethyl diglycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.
Kationische Tenside der Formel (Tkat 1-3) sind die erste Gruppe der zwingenden Inhaltsstoffe der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen.
R2 Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat 1-3) are the first group of compulsory ingredients of the compositions according to the invention. R2
R1 N— A— R4 Q R1 N- A- R4 Q
R3 R3
(Tkat 1-3) (Tkat 1-3)
Die Bedeutung der einzelnen Substituenten wurde vorstehend bereits dargestellt. The meaning of the individual substituents has already been described above.
Q steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion, beispielsweise Halogenide wie Chlorid oder Q is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example, halides such as chloride or
Bromid, sowie für Methosulfat. Bromide, as well as methosulfate.
Als physiologisch verträgliches Anion Q bevorzugt sind Halogenidionen, Sulfationen, Phosphationen, Methosulfationen, Ethosulfationen sowie organische Ionen wie Lactat-, Citrat-, Tartrat- und Acetationen. Bevorzugt sind Methosulfate, Ethosulfate und Halogenidionen, insbesondere Chlorid. Das mindestens eine kationische Tensid der Formel (Tkat 1-3) ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 1 ,0 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt von 1 ,5 bis 4,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Preferred physiologically acceptable anion Q are halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions, ethosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates, ethosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride. The at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat 1-3) is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, most preferably from 1.5 to 4.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition.
Eine erste bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1 -3), worin R1 und R2 und R3 für Methyl stehen und A first preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1 -3), wherein R1 and R2 and R3 are methyl and
A für eine lineare Hydroxyalkylengruppe mit drei Kohlenstoffatomen, die eine Hydroxygruppe enthält, bevorzugt für die Gruppe -CH2CHOHCH2-, steht, und A represents a linear hydroxyalkylene group having three carbon atoms containing a hydroxy group, preferably the group -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 -, and
R4 für R6-COO- steht und R4 stands for R6-COO- and
R6 für einen gesättigten linearen Alkylrest mit 1 1 bis 21 Kohlenstoffatomen steht und R 6 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 1 1 to 21 carbon atoms and
Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht. Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
Ein besonders bevorzugtes kationisches Tensid dieses Typs ist ausgewählt aus 3-Behenoyloxy-2- hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid. A particularly preferred cationic surfactant of this type is selected from 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
Kationische Tenside dieses Typs, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus 3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl- trimethylammoniumchlorid, sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt von 1 ,0 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Cationic surfactants of this type, preferably selected from 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, are preferably in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3.0 Wt .-%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
Eine weitere bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-3), worin A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3) in which
R1 für Methyl steht und R1 is methyl and
R2 für 2-Hydroxyethyl steht und R 2 is 2-hydroxyethyl and
R3 für den Rest (- A - R4) steht und R3 is the radical (- A - R4) and
A für die Gruppe -CH2-CH2- steht und A stands for the group -CH2-CH2- and
R4 für R6-COO- steht und R4 stands for R6-COO- and
R6 für einen gesättigten linearen Alkylrest mit 1 1 bis 21 , bevorzugt 15 bis 17, Kohlenstoffatomen steht und
Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht. R 6 is a saturated linear alkyl radical having 1 1 to 21, preferably 15 to 17, carbon atoms and Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
Ein besonders bevorzugtes kationisches Tensid dieses Typs ist ausgewählt aus Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate. Ein anderes, ebenfalls besonders bevorzugtes kationisches Tensid dieses Typs ist ausgewählt aus Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate. A particularly preferred cationic surfactant of this type is selected from distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate. Another, also particularly preferred, cationic surfactant of this type is selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates.
Kationische Tenside dieses Typs, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt von 1 ,0 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Cationic surfactants of this type, preferably selected from distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates, are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight. -%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
Solche Tenside werden auch als Esterquats bezeichnet und sind beispielsweise unter den Handelsnamen Rewoquat®, Stepantex®, Dehyquart® und Armocare® vertrieben. Die Produkte Quart- amin BTC 131 , Armocare® VGH-70, ein N,N-Bis(2-Palmitoyloxyethyl)dimethylammoniumchlorid, sowie Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80, Dehyquart® F-30, Dehyquart® AU- 35, Rewoquat® WE18, Rewoquat® WE38 DPG und Stepantex® VS 90 sind Beispiele für solche Esterquats. Such surfactants are also known as esterquats, and are sold for example under the trade names Rewoquat ®, Stepantex ®, Dehyquart ® and Armocare ®. The products quart amine BTC 131, Armocare ® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU 35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ® DPG and Stepantex ® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats.
Eine weitere bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-3), worin R1 für Methyl steht und A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3), wherein R 1 is methyl and
R2 und R3 eine heterozyklische ungesättigte Alkylengruppe bilden, die mit einem gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen Alkylrest mit 6 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen substituiert ist, R 2 and R 3 form a heterocyclic unsaturated alkylene group substituted with a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl group of 6 to 20 carbon atoms,
A für die Gruppe -CH2-CH2- steht und A stands for the group -CH2-CH2- and
R4 für R8-NH- steht und R4 is R8-NH- and
R8 für einen linearen Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 10 bis 20 C-Atomen, steht, der gesättigt oder ungesättigt ist, und R8 is a linear acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 20 C atoms, which is saturated or unsaturated, and
Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht. Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
Ein besonders bevorzugtes kationisches Tensid dieses Typs ist ausgewählt aus Quaternium-87. Ein anderes, ebenfalls besonders bevorzugtes kationisches Tensid dieses Typs ist ausgewählt aus Quaternium-27. A particularly preferred cationic surfactant of this type is selected from Quaternium-87. Another, also particularly preferred, cationic surfactant of this type is selected from quaternium-27.
Kationische Tenside dieses Typs, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Quaternium-87 und Quaternium-27, sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 0,5 bis 3,0 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt von 1 ,0 bis 2,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Cationic surfactants of this type, preferably selected from quaternium-87 and quaternium-27, are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight. -%, most preferably from 1, 0 to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.
Eine weitere bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung ist dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-3), worin R1 und R2 für Methyl stehen und A further preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3) in which R 1 and R 2 are methyl and
R3 für Wasserstoff oder ein freies Elektronenpaar steht und R3 is hydrogen or a free electron pair and
A für die Gruppe -CH2-CH2-CH2- steht und A represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - and
R4 für R8-NH- steht und
R8 für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 10 bis 20 C- Atomen, besonders bevorzugt 12 bis 18 C-Atomen, steht, der gesättigt oder ungesättigt ist, und Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht, falls R3 für Wasserstoff steht. R4 is R8-NH- and R 8 is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 20 C atoms, particularly preferably 12 to 18 C atoms, which is saturated or unsaturated, and Q is methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride, if R3 is hydrogen.
Kationische Tenside dieses Typs werden auch als Amidoamine bezeichnet. In neutraler oder alkalischer Lösung liegen sie in ungeladener Form vor, das heißt, R3 steht für ein freies Elektronenpaar, und die Gegenwart eines Anions Q ist nicht erforderlich. Bei einem sauren pH- Wert liegen die Amidoamine quaternisiert vor, das heißt, R3 steht für Wasserstoff, und zum Ladungsausgleich ist ein Anion Q erforderlich. Cationic surfactants of this type are also referred to as amidoamines. In neutral or alkaline solution they are in uncharged form, that is, R3 is a lone pair of electrons, and the presence of an anion Q is not required. At an acidic pH, the amidoamines are quaternized, that is, R3 is hydrogen, and charge equalization requires an anion Q.
Bevorzugt ist eine Zusammensetzung, in welcher das Amidoamin und/oder das quaternisierte Amidoamin gemäß der Formel (Tkat 1-3) ein Amidoamin und/oder ein quaternisiertes Amidoamin ist, worin R1 ein verzweigter oder linearer, gesättigter oder ungesättigter Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C- Atomen, welcher mindestens eine OH-Gruppe enthalten kann, bedeutet. Bevorzugt ist hierbei ein Fettsäurerest aus Ölen und Wachsen, insbesondere aus natürlichen Ölen und Wachsen. Als Beispiele hierfür kommen Lanolin, Bienen-oder Candellilawachse in Betracht. Preference is given to a composition in which the amidoamine and / or the quaternized amidoamine according to the formula (Tkat 1-3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine in which R 1 is a branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C - Atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.
Bevorzugt sind auch solche Amidoamine und/oder quaternisierte Amidoamine, in denen R1 , R2 und/oder R3 in der Formel (Tkat 1-3) einen Rest gemäß der allgemeinen Formel CH2CH2OR5 bedeuten, worin R5 die Bedeutung von Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Hydroxyethyl oder Wasserstoff hat. Der bevorzugte Wert für n im Platzhalter A der allgemeinen Formel (Tkat 1- 3) ist eine ganze Zahl zwischen 2 und 5. Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 1, R 2 and / or R 3 in the formula (Tkat 1-3) are a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen has. The preferred value for n in the placeholder A of the general formula (Tkat 1-3) is an integer between 2 and 5.
Die Alkylamidoamine können sowohl als solche vorliegen als auch durch Protonierung in entsprechend saurer Lösung in eine quaternäre Verbindung in der Zusammensetzung überführt werden. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind die kationischen Acylamidoamine. The alkylamidoamines can be present as such or be converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic acylamidoamines are preferred.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Amidoamine sind Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 801 ), Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine Propionate, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Adogen® S18V oder Tego® Amid S 18 oder Incromine® SB), Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Schercodine M), Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine (z. B. Lexamine 22), Stearamidoethyl Diethyl- amine Phosphate, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine® 101 ), Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine® 201 ), Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 401 ), Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine® 501 ), Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 601 , Incromine® BD), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine Propionate (z. B. Mackalene® 1 17), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene® 1 16), Ricinoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene 216), Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (Mackalene 316), Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene® 616), Sunflowerseedamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene 1216), Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopro- pyl Dimethylamine Lactate, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine Propionate, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Glycolate, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate, und Beispiele für permanent kationische Amidoamine sind: Quaternium-33 (z. B. Swanol® Lanoquat DES-50), Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat® BAS), Behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat® AMG-BEO), Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl PG-
Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat® AMG-O), Cocamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat® CAS), Cocamidopropyltrimoniumchloride (z. B. Empigen® CSC), Ricinoleamidopro- pylethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Rinoleamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimo- niummethosulfate (z. B. Rewoquat® RTM 50), Stearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat® SAS), Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate (z. B. Catagene® SA-70) oder Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate (z. B. Rewoquat® UTM 50), Lauramidopropyl PG- Dimonium Chloride, Canolamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat® COAS). Bevorzugte Amidoamine sind Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine, Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33, Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Rinoleamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate sowie Mischungen hiervon. Besonders bevorzugt sind Amidoamine Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33 und Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate. Höchst bevorzugt sind Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate. Am bevorzugtesten ist Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. Preferred amidoamines of the invention are Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 801), Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Adogen ® S18V or Tego ® S 18 or amide Incromine ® SB), Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. SCHERCODINE M () Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine z. B. LEXAMINE 22) Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine phosphates, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ® 101) Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ® 201) Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 401), Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ® 501), behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 601, Incromine ® BD), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates (z. B. Mackalene 1 ® 17), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (e.g. (. B. Mackalene 1 ® 16), Ricinoleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate z. B. Mackalene 216), Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (Mackalene 316), behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene ® 616) Sunfl owerseedamidopropyl dimethylamine lactates (e.g. B. Mackalene 1216), Dimethylamine Palmamidopropyl, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Glycolate, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate, and examples of permanent cationic amidoamine. Quaternium-33 (eg Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50) , behenamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ® BAS), behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat AMG-BEO ®), Oleamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl PG Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat AMG-O ®), Cocamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ® CAS), Cocamidopropyltrimoniumchloride (z. B. Empigen ® CSC), Ricinoleamidopro- pylethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Rinoleamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Ricinoleamidopropyltrimo- niummethosulfate (e.g. . B. Rewoquat ® RTM 50) Stearamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ® SAS), Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate (z. B. Catagene ® SA-70) or Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate (z. B. Rewoquat ® UTM 50) lauramidopropyl PG dimonium chloride, Canolamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ® COAS). Preferred amidoamines are Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine, Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33, Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Rinoleamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate, and the like Mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are amidoamines stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, cocamidopropyl dimethylamines, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamines, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamines, oleamidopropyl dimethylamines, behenamidopropyl dimethylamines, palmamidopropyl dimethylamines, quaternium-33 and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates. Highly preferred are stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, cocamidopropyl dimethylamines, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamines, behenamidopropyl dimethylamines and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates. Most preferred is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
Die zuvor genannten Amidoamine können einzeln oder in beliebigen Kombinationen miteinander eingesetzt werden, wobei sie in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 3,0 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5 bis 1 ,5 Gew.-%, enthalten sind, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung. The abovementioned amidoamines can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, wherein they are present in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, preferably in a total amount of from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight and more particularly preferably in a total amount of 0.5 to 1, 5 wt .-%, are included, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen enthalten eine Mischung der kationischen Tensidtypen, wie sie jeweils in den Unteransprüchen 2 und 3, 4 und 5, 6 und 7 und 8 und 9 charakterisiert wurden. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen enthalten eine der folgenden Tensidkombinationen: Compositions preferred according to the invention comprise a mixture of the cationic surfactant types as characterized respectively in the subclaims 2 and 3, 4 and 5, 6 and 7 and 8 and 9. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain one of the following surfactant combinations:
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmo- nium Methosulfate; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonomium methosulfates;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfat; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Quaternium-87; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and quaternium-87;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Quaternium-27; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and quaternium-27;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamin; 3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Distearoylethyl3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and distearoylethyl
Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Quaternium-87; Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and quaternium-87;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethyl-
monium Methosulfate und Quaternium-27; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and distearoylethyl hydroxyethyl monium methosulfate and quaternium-27;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Distearoylethyl 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and distearoylethyl
Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine; Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Distearoylethyl 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and distearoylethyl
Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-87; 3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-87; Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines and quaternium-87; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines and quaternium-87;
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Distearoylethyl 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and distearoylethyl
Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-27; 3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid und Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-27; Hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines and quaternium-27; 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride and dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and quaternium-27;
Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Quaternium-27; Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and quaternium-27;
Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine; Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines;
Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine; Dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines;
Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-87; Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and quaternium-87;
Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-87; Dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates and stearamidopropyl dimethylamines and quaternium-87;
Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-27; Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and quaternium-27;
Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate und Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-27; Dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate and stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and quaternium-27;
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-27; Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and quaternium-27;
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine und Quaternium-87. Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine and quaternium-87.
Die zweite Gruppe der erfindungsgemäß zwingend notwendigen Inhaltsstoffe sind Ester von 3-Methyl-1 -butanol, der auch als Isoamylalkohol bezeichnet wird, mit einer Säure der allgemeinen Formel R'COOH, wobei R' einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Alkyl- rest mit 7 bis 29, bevorzugt 1 1 bis 21 , Kohlenstoffatomen, der mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, darstellt. Die genannten Isoamylester stellen Öle mit außergewöhnlichen Haar konditionierenden Eigenschaften dar. Besonders bevorzugt sind Isoamylcaprylat, Isoamylcaprinat, Isoamylcaprat, Isoamyllaurat, Isoamylmyristat, Isoamylpalmitat, Isoamylstearat, Isoamyloleat, Isoamyllinolat, Isoamyllinoleat und Isoamylbehenat sowie Mischungen dieser Substanzen. Erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugt ist Isoamyllaurat. The second group of the inventively mandatory ingredients are esters of 3-methyl-1-butanol, which is also referred to as isoamyl alcohol, with an acid of the general formula R'COOH, where R 'is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical with 7 to 29, preferably 1 1 to 21, carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxy group. The said isoamyl esters are oils with exceptional hair-conditioning properties. Particular preference is given to isoamylcaprylate, isoamylcaprinate, isoamylcaprate, isoamyl laurate, isoamyl myristate, isoamyl palmitate, isoamyl stearate, isoamyl oleate, isoamyl linoleate, isoamyl linoleate and isoamyl behenate and mixtures of these substances. Isoamyl laurate is extremely preferred according to the invention.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen enthalten mindestens einen Ester von 3-Methyl-1-butanol (Isoamylalkohol) mit einer Säure der allgemeinen Formel R'COOH gemäß Anspruch 1 in einer Gesamtmenge von 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung.
Erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen enthalten Isoamyllaurat in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol (isoamyl alcohol) with an acid of the general formula R'COOH according to claim 1 in a total amount of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Extremely preferred compositions according to the invention contain isoamyl laurate in a total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
Optional enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen zur weiteren Steigerung der Haar konditionierenden Wirkung der Kombination aus Kationtensid nach Formel (Tkat 1-3) und dem Iso- amylester b) mindestens ein kationisches Polymer in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.- %, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung. Bevorzugte kationische Polymere sind dabei ausgewählt aus den folgenden kationischen Polymeren: Optionally, the compositions according to the invention for further enhancing the hair-conditioning action of the combination of cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat 1-3) and the iso-amylester b) comprise at least one cationic polymer in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight. , based on the weight of the composition. Preferred cationic polymers are selected from the following cationic polymers:
Geeignete kationische Polymere, die von natürlichen Polymeren abgeleitet sind, sind kationische Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic ones
Derivate von Polysacchariden, beispielsweise kationische Derivate von Cellulose, Stärke oderDerivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or
Guar. Kationische Polysaccharide haben die allgemeine Formel G-0-B-N+RaRbRc A~ Guar. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R a RbRc A ~
G ist ein Anhydroglucoserest, beispielsweise Stärke- oder Celluloseanhydroglucose; G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B ist eine divalente Verbindungsgruppe, beispielsweise Alkylen, Oxyalkylen, Polyoxyalkylen oder B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or
Hydroxyalkylen; hydroxyalkylene;
Ra, Rb und Rc sind unabhängig voneinander Alkyl, Aryl, Alkylaryl, Arylalkyl, Alkoxyalkyl oder Alkoxyaryl mit jeweils bis zu 18 C-Atomen, wobei die Gesamtzahl der C-Atome in Ra, Rb und Rc vorzugsweise maximal 20 ist; R a , Rb and R c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R a , Rb and R c is preferably not more than 20;
A" ist ein übliches Gegenanion und ist vorzugsweise Chlorid. A " is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.
Unter den von den natürlichen kationsichen Poymeren abgeleiteten Polymeren sind die kationischen Cellulosen bevorzugt. Kationische Cellulosen sind mit unterschiedlichem Substitutionsgrad, kationischer Ladungsdichte, Stickstoffgehalt und Molekulargewichten auf dem Markt erhältlich. Insbesondere die folgenden kationischen Cellulosen sind erfindungsgemäß höchst bevorzugt. Polyquaternium-67 wird beispielsweise im Handel unter den Bezeichnungen Polymer® SL oder Polymer® SK (Amerchol) angeboten. Unter der Handelsbezeichnung Mirustyle® CP der Fa. Croda wird eine weitere höchst bevorzugte Cellulose angeboten. Diese ist eine Trimonium and Cocodi- monium Hydroxyethylcellulose als derivatisierte Cellulose mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquater- nium-72. Polyquaternium-72 kann sowohl in fester Form als auch bereits in wässriger Lösung vorgelöst verwendet werden. Among the polymers derived from the natural cationic polymers, the cationic celluloses are preferred. Cationic celluloses are available in the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. In particular, the following cationic celluloses are highly preferred according to the invention. Polyquaternium-67 (Amerchol) is available commercially for example under the names Polymer ® SL or polymer ® SK. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodonium hydroxyethyl cellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.
Geeignete kationische Polymere, die von synthetischen Polymeren abgeleitet sind, sind beispielsweise Copolymere aus Suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers
A1 ) 0,1 bis 50 %, vorzugsweise 10 bis 50 % (bezogen auf die Gesamt-Anzahl an Monomeren im Copolymer) Monomeren der Formel (la) A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)
in der in the
X steht für Chlorid, Sulfat, Methosulfat,
A2) Monomere aus der Gruppe Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure sowie den Alkalimetall- und Ammoniumsalzen dieser Säuren, X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate, A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,
wobei das Monomere A2 50 bis 99,9 %, vorzugsweise 50 bis 90 % (bezogen auf die Gesamt-wherein the monomer A2 is 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total
Anzahl an Monomeren im Copolymer) des Copolymers ausmacht; Number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer;
enthalten. contain.
Unabhängig davon, welche der bevorzugten Copolymere A der Formeln (la) eingesetzt werden, sind erfindungsgemäße Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, die dadurch gekennzeichnet sind, dass das Verhältnis von (y : z) 4: 1 bis 1 :2, vorzugsweise 4: 1 bis 1 : 1 beträgt. Regardless of which of the preferred copolymers A of the formulas (Ia) are used, preference is given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that the ratio of (Y: z) 4: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 4: 1 to 1: 1 amounts to.
Unabhängig davon, welche Copolymere A in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln eingesetzt werden, sind erfindungsgemäße Haarbehandlungsmittel bevorzugt, bei denen das Copolymer A eine Molmasse von 10000 bis 20 Millionen gmor , vorzugsweise von 100000 bis 10 Millionen gmol ~1 , weiter bevorzugt von 500000 bis 5 Millionen gmo und insbesondere von 1 , 1 Millionen bis 2,2 Millionen gmol-1 aufweist. Regardless of which copolymers A are used in the compositions according to the invention hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer A has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20 million gmor, preferably from 100,000 to 10 million gmol ~ 1 , more preferably from 500,000 to 5 million gmo and especially from 1, 1 million to 2.2 million gmol -1 .
Ein höchst bevorzugtes Polymer, welches wie zuvor dargestellt aufgebaut ist, ist unter der Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-74 im Handel erhältlich. A most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.
Ein weiteres höchst bevorzugtes kationisches synthetisches Polymer ist ein gewünschtenfalls vernetztes Homopolymer, das Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) mit der INCI- Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-37. Solche Produkte sind beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) und Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma) im Handel erhältlich. Another highly preferred cationic synthetic polymer is an optionally crosslinked homopolymer, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially available, for example, under the names Rheocare® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® CR (3V Sigma).
Das Homopolymer wird bevorzugt in Form einer nichtwäßrigen Polymerdispersion eingesetzt. Solche Polymerdispersionen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Salcare® SC 95 und Salcare® SC 96 im Handel erhältlich. The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 in the trade.
Erfindungsgemäße Haarbehandlungsmittel enthalten Polyquaternium-37 - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - in Mengen von 0,001 bis 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0025 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,005 bis 1 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,0075 bis 0,75 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%. Hair treatment agents according to the invention contain Polyquaternium-37 by weight in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt.%, More preferably 0, 0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%.
Optional können bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen weiterhin mindestens ein Zuckertensid enthalten. Höchst bevorzugt werden als nichtionische Tenside diese auf Zuckerbasis verwendet. Hierbei handelt es sich einerseits bevorzugt um ein Alkyl- oder Alkenyloligoglykosid. Diese nichtionischen Emulgatoren stellen bekannte nichtionische Tenside gemäß Formel (I) dar,
Optionally, preferred compositions of the invention may further contain at least one sugar surfactant. Most preferred as nonionic surfactants are those based on sugar. On the one hand, this is preferably an alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside. These nonionic emulsifiers are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I),
in der R für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligogly- koside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/ oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (I) gibt den Oligomerisie- rungsgrad (DP), d . h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muss und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine
analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1 ,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Bevorzugt sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1 ,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1 ,2 und 1 ,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 22, vorzugsweise 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Undecylalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Iso- stearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol, natürliche Fettalkohole wie Cocosalkohol sowie technische Mischungen. Beispiele für im Handel erhältliche Produkte sind die Oramix® - Typen der Fa. Seppic, beispielsweise Oramix® NS 10, die Plantacare® - Typen, beispielsweise Plantacare® 2000UP, Plantacare® 1200UP, Plantacare® 810UP, Plantacare® 818UP. in which R is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), d. H. The distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the single molecule must always be integer and can take here especially the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a particular alkyloligoglycoside is a analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. Preferred are those alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglykoside whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1, 7 and in particular between 1, 2 and 1, 4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, iso-stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, natural fatty alcohols such as coconut alcohol and technical mixtures , . Examples of commercially available products that Oramix® are - grades from Seppic, for example Oramix® NS 10 Plantacare® ® - types, such as Plantacare® ® 2000UP, Plantacare® ® 1200UP, Plantacare® ® 810UP, Plantacare® ® 818UP.
Weiterhin kann der Emulgator auf Zuckerbasis ein Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamid, der Formel (II) sein, Furthermore, the sugar-based emulsifier may be a fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide of formula (II),
R3 R 3
I I
R2CO-N-[Z] (II) R 2 CO-N- [Z] (II)
in der R2CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R3 für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. in the R 2 CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R 3 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.
Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N- alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (III) wiedergegeben werden: Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (III):
R2CO-NR3-CH2-(CHOH)4CH2OH (III) R 2 CO-NR 3 -CH 2 - (CHOH) 4 CH 2 OH (III)
Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (III) eingesetzt, in der R3 für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R2CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. deren technischer Mischungen steht. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palati- nose ableiten. The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (III) in which R 3 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 2 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.
Das nichtionische Tensid auf Zuckerbasis ist in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,001 - 3,0 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,01 - 2,0 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The nonionic sugar-based surfactant is preferably contained in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.001-3.0% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01-2.0% by weight are particularly preferred.
Selbstverständlich können die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen zusätzlich zu den zuvor beschriebenen wesentlichen Inhaltsstoffen noch weitere übliche Inhaltsstoffe opional enthalten. Diese werden insbesondere zugesetzt, um den Zusammensetzungen weitere gewünschte
Eigenschaften, wie eine Wirkung gegen Schuppen oder zur Steigerung des Volumens etc. zu verleihen. Diese Inhaltsstoffe werden nun beschrieben. Of course, in addition to the essential ingredients described above, the compositions according to the invention may optionally contain further conventional ingredients. These are especially added to give the compositions further desired To impart properties such as dandruff or volume enhancement effects. These ingredients will now be described.
Als Fettalkohole (Fatal) können eingesetzt werden gesättigte, ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte, verzweigte oder lineare Fettalkohole. Gesättigte und lineare Fettalkohole werden vorzugsweise mit einer C-Kettenlänge von C6 - C18, bevorzugt Cs - C18 und ganz besonders bevorzugt C10 - C16 verwendet. Ein- oder mehrfach ungesättigte Fettalkohole sowie verzweigte und ungesättigte beziehungsweise verzweigte und gesättigte Fettalkohole werden vorzugsweise mit einer C-Kettenlänge von C6 - C30, bevorzugt C10 bis C22 und ganz besonders bevorzugt von C12 - C22 verwendet. Einsetzbar im Sinne der Erfindung sind beispielsweise Decanol, Octanol, Octenol, Dodecenol, Decenol, Octadienol, Dodecadienol, Decadienol, Oleylalkohol, Erucaalkohol, Ricinolalkohol, Lauryl- alkohol, Myristylalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Linoleylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, wobei diese Aufzählung beispielhaften und nicht limitierenden Charakter haben soll. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar sind ebenfalls solche Fettalkoholschnitte, die ein Gemisch von unterschiedlichen Fettalkoholen darstellen. As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear fatty alcohols. Saturated and linear fatty alcohols are preferably used with a C chain length of C6-C18, preferably Cs-C18, and most preferably C10-C16. Mono- or polyunsaturated fatty alcohols and also branched and unsaturated or branched and saturated fatty alcohols are preferably used with a C chain length of C6-C30, preferably C10 to C22 and very particularly preferably of C12-C22. For the purposes of the invention, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinol alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, these list are exemplary and not limiting Character should have. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
Die Fettalkohole sind bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 - 10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 2 - 5 Gew.-% enthalten, jeweils bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung. The fatty alcohols are preferably contained in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 2-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
Als Fettsäuren (Fatac) können eingesetzt werden lineare und/oder verzweigte, gesättigte und/oder ungesättigte Fettsäuren mit 6 - 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Bevorzugt sind Fettsäuren mit 10 - 22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Hierunter wären beispielsweise zu nennen die Isostearinsäuren, wie die Handelsprodukte Emersol® 871 und Emersol® 875, und Isopalmitinsäuren wie das Handelsprodukt Edenor® IP 95, sowie alle weiteren unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Edenor® (BASF) vertriebenen Fettsäuren. Weitere typische Beispiele für solche Fettsäuren sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2- Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linol- säure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Eruca- säure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Besonders bevorzugt sind üblicherweise die Fettsäureschnitte, welche aus Cocosöl oder Palmöl erhältlich sind; insbesondere bevorzugt ist in der Regel der Einsatz von Stearinsäure. As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (BASF) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
Die Einsatzmenge beträgt dabei 0, 1 - 3 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. Bevorzugt beträgt die Menge 0,5 - 2 Gew.%, wobei ganz besonders vorteilhaft Mengen von 0,8 - 1 Gew.% sein können. The amount used is 0, 1 to 3 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-2% by weight, with amounts of 0.8-1% by weight being particularly advantageous.
Weiterhin können zusätzlich kosmetische Öle enthalten sein, die von den obligatorischen Isoamyl- estern verschieden sind. Bevorzugt weisen diese Ölkörper einen Schmelzpunkt kleiner als 50 °C, besonders bevorzugt kleiner als 45 °C, ganz besonders bevorzugt kleiner als 40 °C, höchst bevorzugt kleiner als 35 °C und am bevorzugtesten sind die kosmetischen Öle bei einer Temperatur kleiner als 30 °C fließfähig. Im Folgenden werden diese Öle näher definiert und beschrieben. In addition, cosmetic oils which are different from the obligatory isoamyl esters may additionally be present. Preferably, these oil bodies have a melting point less than 50 ° C, more preferably less than 45 ° C, most preferably less than 40 ° C, most preferably less than 35 ° C and most preferably the cosmetic oils at a temperature less than 30 ° C flowable. In the following, these oils are defined and described in more detail.
Zu den geeigneten kosmetischen Ölen sind beispielsweise zu zählen: Examples of suitable cosmetic oils include:
Esteröle mit einer Alkoholkomponente, die von Isoamylalkohol verschieden ist. Unter Esterölen sind im Sinne der vorliegenden Anmeldung die Ester von - oder mehrbasigen C6 - C30 - Fettsäuren
mit ein- oder mehrwertigen C2 - C30 - Fettalkoholen (ohne Isoamylalkohol) zu verstehen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit einwertigen Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexan- säure, Isononansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linol- säure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile in den Esterölen sind Isopropylalkohol, Glycerin, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Nonylalkohol, Isononylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Linolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat, lsononansäure-C16- 18-alkylester, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat, n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat, Isopropylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, Laurinsäurehexylester, Di-n-butyladipat, Myristylmyristat, Cetearylisononanoat, Isononylisonona- noat und Ölsäuredecylester sowie Mischungen hiervon. Ester oils having an alcohol component other than isoamyl alcohol. For the purposes of the present application, ester oils are esters of polybasic or polybasic C6-C30 fatty acids with mono- or polyvalent C2 - C30 - fatty alcohols (without isoamyl alcohol) to understand. Preference is given to the monoesters of fatty acids with monohydric alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, nonyl alcohol, isononyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, Elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given according to the invention to isopropyl myristate, C 16-18 alkyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexylhexylate, di-n butyl adipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester, and mixtures thereof.
Selbstverständlich können die Esteröle auch mit Ethylenoxid, Propylenoxid oder Mischungen aus Ethylenoxid und Propylenoxid alkoxyliert sein. Die Alkoxylierung kann dabei sowohl am Fettalkoholpart als auch am Fettsäurepart als auch an beiden Teilen der Esteröle zu finden sein. Bevorzugt ist erfindungsgemäß jedoch, wenn zunächst der Fettalkohol alkoxyliert wurde und anschließend mit Fettsäure verestert wurde. In der Formel (D4-II) sind allgemein diese Verbindungen dargestellt.
Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.
R1 steht hierbei für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen, cyclischen gesättigten cyclischen ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R 1 in this case represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
AO steht für Ethylenoxid, Propylenoxid oder Butylenoxid, AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,
X steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 200, vorzugsweise 1 und 100, besonders bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 50, ganz besonders bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 20, höchst bevorzugt zwischen 1 und 10 und am bevorzugtesten zwischen 1 und 5, X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
R2 steht für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen, cyclischen gesättigten cyclischen ungesättigten Alkyl-, Alkenyl-, Alkinyl-, Phenyl- oder Benzylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Beispiele für eingesetzte Fettsäurenanteile als Rest R1 in den Estern sind Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Beispiele für die Fettalkoholanteile als Rest R2 in den Esterölen sind Benzylalkohol, Isopropylalkohol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethyl-
hexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmit- oleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Li- nolylalkohol, Linolenylalkohol, Elaeostearylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenyl- alkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen. Ein erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugtes Esteröl ist beispielsweise unter der INCI - Bezeichnung PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate erhältlich. Weiterhin sind unter Esterölen zu verstehen: R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties as radical R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethyl hexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleole alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate. Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:
Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykoldioleat, Ethylenglykoldi-isotrideca- noat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelar- gonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat, sowie Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate) , Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, as well as
symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (z. B. Cetiol® CC), symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (z. B. Cetiol ® CC),
Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petro- selinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behen- säure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäure- monoglyceride eingesetzt. Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petro-, linoleic Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preference is given to using oleic acid monoglycerides.
natürliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Amaranthsamenöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Arganöl, Avo- cadoöl, Babassuöl, Baumwollsaatöl, Borretschsamenöl, Camelinaöl, Distelöl, Erdnussöl, Gra- natapfelkernöl, Grapefruitsamenöl, Hanföl, Haselnussöl, Holundersamenöl, Johannisbeer- samenöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaobutter, Leinöl, Macadamianussöl, Maiskeimöl, Mandelöl, Marulaöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Olivenöl, Orangenöl, Palmöl, Pfirsichkernöl Rapsöl, Reisöl, Sanddornfrucht- fleischöl, Sanddornkernöl, Sesamöl, Sheabutter, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Traubenkernöl, Walnussöl, Wildrosenöl, Weizenkeimöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle. natural oils. Examples of such oils are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, grapefruit seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil , Corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, wheat germ oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
Selbstverständlich ist es erfindungsgemäß auch möglich, mehrere Esteröle gleichzeitig zu verwenden. Bevorzugte Esteröle sind Isopropylmyristat, Glycerincarbonat, Dicaprylylcarbonat, Isopropyl- palmitat, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, Cetyloleat und Oleylerucat sowie Mischungen mindestens zweier dieser Esteröle. Am bevorzugtesten sind Mischungen aus Esterölen, wenn eines der Esteröle Dicaprylylcarbonat oder Isopropyl Myristate ist. Höchst bevorzugt sind Mischungen aus und mit diesen beiden Esterölen. Am bevorzugtesten ist es, wenn eine Mischung aus Esterölen mit den beiden letztgenannten Ölen verwendet wird, wenn das Isopropylmyristat und das Caprylyicarbonat in einem Verhältnis von 10 : 1 bis zu 1 : 1 stehen, bevorzugt 5 : 1 bis 1 : 1 , noch bevorzugter 5 : 1 bis 3 : 1 in Bezug auf die jeweiligen Mengen der Esteröle. Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time. Preferred ester oils are isopropyl myristate, glycerin carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristates, cetyl oleate and oleyl erucate and mixtures of at least two of these ester oils. Most preferred are mixtures of ester oils when one of the ester oils is dicaprylyl carbonate or isopropyl myristate. Most preferred are mixtures of and with these two ester oils. Most preferred is when a mixture of ester oils with the latter two oils is used when the isopropyl myristate and the caprylyicarbonate are in a ratio of 10: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably 5 : 1 to 3: 1 with respect to the respective amounts of the ester oils.
Das mindestens eine Esteröl ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,05 bis 5,0 Gew.%, höchst
bevorzugt von 0,2 bis 5,0 Gew.%, enthalten, bezogen auf das Gewicht der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung. The at least one ester oil is present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, maximum preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1 ,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol® S) und Di-n- octylether (Cetiol® OE) können bevorzugt sein. liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
Die Gesamtmenge beträgt 0,1 - 10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0, 1 - 5 Gew.% und besonders bevorzugt The total amount is 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-1.5% by weight and more preferably
0,1 - 1 Gew.% bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. 0.1 - 1 wt.% Based on the total agent.
Erfindungsgemäß verwendbare Emulgatoren sind beispielsweise Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example
Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
Ci2-C22-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin, C 12 -C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide, Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides,
Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl, Partialester von Polyolen mit 3-6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C- Atomen, Addition products of from 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide onto castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
Sterine, sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine, Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) oder aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine), Sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),
Phospholipide (Lecithine, Phopshatidylcholine), Phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),
Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit, Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate
(Handelsprodukt Dehymuls® PGPH). (Dehymuls ® PGPH commercial product).
Weitere Emulgatoren für die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen können Phospholipide sein. Als Phospholipid sind sowohl natürliche als auch synthetische Phospholipide verwendbar. Bevorzugt sind Phospolipide auf natürlicher Basis. Als Phospholipide sind insbesondere Verbindungen der Formel (Phosphol-I) verwendbar.
Further emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention may be phospholipids. As the phospholipid, both natural and synthetic phospholipids are useful. Preferred are phospholipids on a natural basis. As phospholipids in particular compounds of the formula (phosphol-I) can be used.
(Phosphol-I) (Phosphole I)
In der Formel (Phosphol-I) steht y für eine ganze Zahl von 0 bis 2, x für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 3 mit der Maßgabe, dass die Summe aus x und y gleich 3 ist. In the formula (phosphol-1), y is an integer of 0 to 2, x is an integer of 1 to 3, provided that the sum of x and y is 3.
In den Phospolipiden der Formel (Phospol-I) steht ferner M für Wasserstoff, ein Äquivalent eines Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetallkations, ein Ammoniumkation oder einen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppe(n) substituiert ist. Besonders bevorzugt sind Verbindungen, bei denen M für ein Natriumkation steht. In the phospholipids of the formula (phosphol-1), furthermore, M is hydrogen, one equivalent of an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly preferred are compounds in which M is a sodium cation.
Weiterhin steht B in der Formel (Phospol-I) der erfindungsgemäß einzusetzenden Phospolipide für ein Äquivalent eines physiologisch verträglichen Anions. Als Anion eignen sich z.B. Chlorid, Bromid, Jodid, Sulfat, Perchlorat, Tetrafluorborat, Tetraphenylborat und Tetrachlorozinkat. Bevorzugt ist das Chloridion. Furthermore, B in the formula (Phosphol-I) of the phospholipids to be used according to the invention is one equivalent of a physiologically tolerated anion. As the anion, e.g. Chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and tetrachlorozincate. Preferably, the chloride ion.
R steht in der Formel (Phospol-I) für einen Rest der Formel (II),
in der z für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 4, insbesondere für 3, steht und R und R2 unabhängig voneinander für einen Ci- bis C4-Alkylrest stehen, der gegebenenfalls mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxygruppe(n) oder einer Acylgruppe substituiert ist. R in the formula (phosphol-1) is a radical of the formula (II) in which z is an integer from 1 to 4, in particular 3, and R and R 2 independently of one another are a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy group (s) or an acyl group.
A steht erfindungsgemäß für eine der Einheiten -O-CH2-CH2-CH2-, -O-CH2-CH2- oder A represents, according to the invention, one of the moieties -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH 2 -CH 2 - or
-O-CH2-CHOH-CH2-, wobei die Einheit -O-CH2-CHOH-CH2- besonders bevorzugt ist. -O-CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -, wherein the moiety -O-CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 - is particularly preferred.
Der Rest R3 steht für The radical R 3 stands for
(a) einen verzweigten oder linearen, gesättigten Cs- bis Cis-Acylrest oder (a) a branched or linear, saturated Cs to cis-acyl radical or
(b) einen verzweigten oder linearen, einfach oder mehrfach ungesättigten Cs- bis Cis-Acylrest. Besonders bevorzugte gesättigte Reste R3 sind der Rest der Stearinsäure sowie die Reste der Mischung der Fettsäuren, die man aus Kokosöl gewinnt. (B) a branched or linear, mono- or polyunsaturated Cs to Cis acyl radical. Particularly preferred saturated radicals R 3 are the radical of stearic acid and also the radicals of the mixture of the fatty acids which are obtained from coconut oil.
Ein besonders bevorzugter ungesättigter Rest R3 ist der Rest der Linolsäure. A particularly preferred unsaturated radical R 3 is the radical of linoleic acid.
Beispiele für die als Substituenten in den erfindungsgemäßen Verbindungen genannten Ci- bis C4- Alkylgruppen sind die Gruppen Methyl, Ethyl, Propyl, Isopropyl und Butyl. Ethyl- und Methylgruppen sind bevorzugte Alkylgruppen. Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind Methylgruppen. Examples of the ci to C4-alkyl groups mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl groups are preferred alkyl groups. Very particular preference is given to methyl groups.
Ganz besonders bevorzugte Phospholipide der Formel (Phosphol-I) sind die unter den INCI- Bezeichnungen Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimo- nium Chloride Phosphate und Stearamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate bekannten Substanzen. Diese werden beispielsweise von der Firma Mona unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Phospholipid EFA®, Phospholipid PTC® sowie Phospholipid SV® vertrieben.
Weiterhin werden die Glycero-Phospolipide, die beispielsweise als Lecithine oder Phosphatidyl- choline beispielsweise aus Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen, insbesondere Sojabohnen, gewonnen werden, als erfindungegemäße Phospholipide verwendet. Phospholipide sind insbesondere Phosphoglyceride. Very particularly preferred phospholipids of the formula (phosphol-1) are the substances known under the INCI names linoleneamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid EFA® , Phospholipid PTC® and Phospholipid SV® . Furthermore, the glycerol phospholipids, which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines, for example from egg yolk or plant seeds, in particular soybeans, are used as phospholipids according to the invention. Phospholipids are in particular phosphoglycerides.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders geeignete Glycero-Phospholipide werden aus Sojabohnen erhalten. Hierunter sind die Phosphatidylcholine, Phosphatidylethanolamine, Phosphatidylserine und Phosphatidylinosite sowie Mischungen dieser Substanzen besonders bevorzugt. Glycero-phospholipids which are particularly suitable according to the invention are obtained from soybeans. Of these, the phosphatidylcholines, phosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidylserines and phosphatidylinositols and mixtures of these substances are particularly preferred.
Die besonders bevorzugten Phosphatidylcholine weisen die Formel (Phosphol-Il) auf, The particularly preferred phosphatidylcholines have the formula (phosphol-II),
X— R1 X-R1
HX O CH, HX O CH,
I II l + 3 I II l + 3
R2— O— C— C— O P— O— C— C— N— CH, R2-O-C-C-O-P-O-C-C-N-CH,
H H2 | _ H2 H2 | HH 2 | _ H 2 H 2 |
° CHs (Phosphol-Il) ° CHs (Phosphol-II)
in der die Reste R und R2 jeweils unabhängig voneinander eine Acylgruppe aus Fettsäuren mit einer Kohlenstoffanzahl von 8 - 30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 10 - 24 und besonders bevorzugt 12 - 22 C-Atomen, darstellen. Die Fettsäu rereste können sowohl gesättigt als auch einfach oder mehrfach ungesättigt sein. Bevorzugt sind die gesättigten Acylreste von C12 - C22-Fettsäuren. Besonders bevorzugt sind die Acylreste der Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure, Arachinsäure und Behensäure. in which the radicals R and R 2 each independently of one another are an acyl group of fatty acids having a carbon number of 8 to 30 C atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and particularly preferably 12 to 22 C atoms. The Fettsäu rereste can be both saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated. The saturated acyl radicals of C 12 -C 22 -fatty acids are preferred. Especially preferred are the acyl radicals of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid.
Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Phosphatidylethanolamine sind solche der Formel (Phosphol- lla) bzw. (Phosphol-Ilb), The phosphatidylethanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are those of the formula (phospholyl) or (phosphol-11b),
.0— R1 .0- R1
HX O CH, HX O CH,
I II l + 3 I II l + 3
R2— O— C— C— O P— O— C— C— N— CH, R2-O-C-C-O-P-O-C-C-N-CH,
H H2 | _ H2 H2 | HH 2 | _ H 2 H 2 |
O CH, O CH,
3 (Phosphol-Ila) 3 (phosphol-Ila)
>— R1 > - R1
HX O II HX O II
R2— O— C— C— O P— O— C— C— NH, R2-O-C-C-O-P-O-C-C-NH,
H H2 | H2 H2 2 HH 2 | H 2 H 2 2
0 (Phosphol IIb) 0 (phosphol IIb)
in denen die Reste R und R2 dieselbe Bedeutung haben wie für Formel (Phosphol-Ill) dargestellt. Besonders bevorzugt sind Phosphatidylethanolamine, bei denen R und R2 unabhängig voneinander gesättigte Acylreste von Fettsäuren mit 16 oder 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere einen Palmitoyl- oder Stearoyl-Rest, darstellen. in which the radicals R and R 2 have the same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-III). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylethanolamines in which R and R 2 independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearoyl radical.
Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Phosphatidylserine sind solche der Strukturformel (lila) bzw. (Mlb),
(Phosphatidylserine lila) The phosphatidylserines preferred according to the invention are those of the structural formula (IIIa) or (IIIb) (Phosphatidylserine purple)
(Phosphatidylserine lllb) (Phosphatidylserines IIIb)
in denen R und R2 dieselbe Bedeutung haben wie für Formel (Phosphol-Il) dargestellt. Besonders bevorzugt sind Phosphatidylserine, bei denen R und R2 unabhängig voneinander gesättigte Acyl- reste von Fettsäuren mit 16 oder 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere einen Palmitoyl- oder Stea- royl-Rest, darstellen. in which R and R 2 have the same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-II). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylserines in which R and R 2 independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearyl radical.
Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Phosphatidylinosite weisen die Strukturformel (IVa) bzw. (IVb) auf, The phosphatidylinositols preferred according to the invention have the structural formula (IVa) or (IVb)
(Phospatidylinosite IVa) (Phosphatidylinositol IVa)
(Phosphatidylinosite IVb) (Phosphatidylinositol IVb)
bei der die Reste R und R2 dieselbe Bedeutung haben wie für Formel (Phosphol-Il) dargelegt. Für R sind Acylreste aus Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure und Arachinsäure bevorzugt; besonders bevorzugt ist ein Stearinsäureacylrest. R2 stellt in besonders bevorzugter Weise einen linearen gesättigten C2o-Fettsäureacylrest (Arachoylrest) dar. in which the radicals R and R 2 have the same meaning as set forth for formula (phosphol-II). For R, acyl radicals of palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid are preferred; particularly preferred is a stearic acid acyl radical. R 2 is particularly preferably a linear saturated C 2- fatty acid acyl radical (arachoyl radical).
Die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Glycero-Phospholipide weisen eine Jodzahl von maximal 10, bevorzugt von maximal 5 auf. The glycerophospholipids used according to the invention have an iodine value of not more than 10, preferably of not more than 5.
Erfindungsgemäß ist es auch möglich, eine Mischung aus mehreren Phospholipiden einzusetzen. Ein erfindungsgemäß bevorzugtes Phospholipid ist unter der Bezeichnung Emulmetik® 100 (BASF) im Handel verfügbar. Die erfindungsgemäßen Phospolipide sind in den Mitteln in Konzentrationen von 0, 1 Gew.% bis zu 7,5 Gew.%, vorzugsweise von 0,1 Gew.% bis zu 5 Gew.%, ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0, 1 Gew.% bis zu 3 Gew.% und höchst bevorzugt in Mengen
von 0, 1 bis zu 1 ,5 Gew.% enthalten. According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several phospholipids. A preferred phospholipid according to the invention is commercially available under the name Emulmetik® 100 (BASF). The phospholipids according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.1% by weight to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 5% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1% by weight % up to 3% by weight and most preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 1.5 wt%.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten die Emulgatoren bevorzugt in Mengen von 0, 1 - 25 Gew.- %, insbesondere 0,5 - 15 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.
Die kationischen Polymere können Homo- oder Copolymere sein, wobei die quaternären Stickstoffgruppen entweder in der Polymerkette oder vorzugsweise als Substituent an einem oder mehreren der Monomeren enthalten sind. Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete kationische Monomere sind ungesättigte, radikalisch polymerisierbare Verbindungen, welche mindestens eine kationische Gruppe tragen, insbesondere ammoniumsubstituierte Vinylmonomere wie zum Beispiel Trialkylmethacryloxyalkyl- ammonium, Trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, Dialkyldiallylammonium und quaternäre Vinylammo- niummonomere mit cyclischen, kationische Stickstoffe enthaltenden Gruppen wie Pyridinium, Imid- azolium oder quaternäre Pyrrolidone, z.B. Alkylvinylimidazolium, Alkylvinylpyridinium, oder Alkyl- vinylpyrrolidon Salze. Die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere sind vorzugsweise niedere Alkylgruppen wie zum Beispiel C1- bis C7-Alkylgruppen, besonders bevorzugt C1- bis C3-Alkylgruppen. The cationic polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary Pyrrolidones, eg Alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
Die Ammoniumgruppen enthaltenden Monomere können mit nicht kationischen Monomeren copolymerisiert sein. Geeignete Comonomere sind beispielsweise Acrylamid, Methacrylamid; Alkyl- und Dialkylacrylamid, Alkyl- und Dialkylmethacrylamid, Alkylacrylat, Alkylmethacrylat, Vinylcapro- lacton, Vinylcaprolactam, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylester, z.B. Vinylacetat, Vinylalkohol, Propylenglykol oder Ethylenglykol, wobei die Alkylgruppen dieser Monomere vorzugsweise C1- bis C7-Alkylgrup- pen, besonders bevorzugt C1- bis C3-Alkylgruppen sind. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, particularly preferably C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups.
Geeignete Polymere mit quaternären Amingruppen sind beispielsweise die im CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium beschriebenen Polymere wie Methylvinylimidazoliumchlorid/Vinylpyrrolidon Copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) oder quaternisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat Copolymer (Polyquaternium- 1 1 ). Examples of suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).
Von den kationischen Polymeren, die in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten sein können, ist zum Beispiel Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat® 755 N und Gafquat® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und von denen das Gafquat® 734 besonders bevorzugt ist, geeignet. Weitere kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise das von der Firma BASF, Deutschland unter dem Handelsnamen Luviquat® HM 550 vertriebene Copolymer aus Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Imidazoliminmethochlorid, das von der Firma Calgon/USA unter dem Handelsnamen Merquat® Plus 3300 vertriebene Terpolymer aus Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid, Natriumacrylat und Acrylamid und das von der Firma ISP unter dem Handelsnamen Gafquat® HS 100 vertriebene Vinylpyrrolidon/Methacryl- amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid Copolymer. Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ® 755 N and Gafquat ® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer.
Homopolymere der allgemeinen Formel (P1 ), -{CH2-[CR COO-(CH2)mN+R2R3R4]}n X", Homopolymers of the general formula (P1), - {CH 2 - [CRCOO- (CH 2 ) m N + R 2 R 3 R 4 ]} n X " ,
in der R = -H oder -CH3 ist, R2, R3 und R4 unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-in which R = -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are independently selected from C 1-4-
Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1 , 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl undAlkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and
X" ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist. Im Rahmen dieserX "is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion
Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden
Bedingungen gilt: R steht für eine Methylgruppe, R2, R3 und R4 stehen für Methylgruppen, m hat den Wert 2. Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following Conditions are: R is a methyl group, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups, m is 2.
Als physiologisch verträgliches Gegenionen X" kommen beispielsweise Halogenidionen, Sulfationen, Phosphationen, Methosulfationen sowie organische Ionen wie Lactat-, Citrat-, Tartrat- und Acetationen in Betracht. Bevorzugt sind Halogenidionen, insbesondere Chlorid. Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X " are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride.
Geeignete kationische Guarderivate werden unter der Handelsbezeichnung Jaguar® vertrieben und haben die INCI-Bezeichnung Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. Weiterhin werden besonders geeignete kationische Guarderivate auch von der Fa. Hercules unter der Bezeichnung N-Hance® im Handel. Weitere kationische Guarderivate werden von der Fa. BASF unter der Bezeichnung Cosmedia® vertrieben. Ein bevorzugtes kationisches Guarderivat ist das Handelsprodukt AquaCat® der Fa. Hercules. Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. BASF under the name Cosmedia® ®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ® from. Hercules.
Ein geeignetes Chitosan wird beispielsweise von der Firma Kyowa Oil& Fat, Japan, unter dem Handelsnamen Flonac® vertrieben. Ein bevorzugtes Chitosansalz ist Chitosoniumpyrrolidon- carboxylat, das beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Kytamer® PC von der Firma Amerchol, USA, vertrieben wird. Weitere Chitosanderivate sind unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF und Chitolam® NB/101 im Handel frei verfügbar. A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ®. A preferred chitosan is carboxylate Chitosoniumpyrrolidon- that is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ® CMF, Hydagen® ® HCMF and Chitolam ® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.
Weitere bevorzugte kationische Polymere sind beispielsweise Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example
kationische Alkylpolyglycoside, cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat® 50, cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ® 50,
polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat®100 (Poly(dimethyl- diallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid- Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere, Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden, polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ® 100 (poly (dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride)) and Merquat ® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer), commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are sold under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 are offered,
quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol, quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette, and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Aquaflex® SF 40 angeboten werden. Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
Ebenfalls erfindungsgemäß verwendbar sind die Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons, wie sie als Handelsprodukte Copolymer 845 (Hersteller: ISP), Gaffix® VC 713 (Hersteller: ISP), Gafquat®ASCP 101 1 , Gafquat®HS 1 10, Luviquat®8155 und Luviquat® MS 370 erhältlich sind. Weiterhin sind kationisierte Proteinhydrolysate zu den kationischen Polymeren zu zählen, wobei das zugrunde liegende Proteinhydrolysat vom Tier, beispielsweise aus Collagen, Milch oder Keratin, von der Pflanze, beispielsweise aus Weizen, Mais, Reis, Kartoffeln, Soja oder Mandeln, von
marinen Lebensformen, beispielsweise aus Fischcollagen oder Algen, oder biotechnologisch gewonnenen Proteinhydrolysaten, stammen kann. Als typische Beispiele für die erfindungsgemäßen kationischen Proteinhydrolysate und -derivate seien die unter den INCI - Bezeichnungen im "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036- 4702) genannten und im Handel erhältlichen Produkte genannt. Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ® HS 1 10, Luviquat ® 8155 and Luviquat ® MS 370 are available. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, from marine life forms, for example fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products.
Die zusätzlichen kationischen Polymere sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The additional cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Weiterhin können als Polymere amphotere Polymere verwendet werden. Unter dem Begriff ampho- tere Polymere werden sowohl solche Polymere, die im Molekül sowohl freie Aminogruppen als auch freie -COOH- oder SCbH-Gruppen enthalten und zur Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind, als auch zwitterionische Polymere, die im Molekül quartäre Ammoniumgruppen und -COO - oder -SCb'-Gruppen enthalten, und solche Polymere zusammengefasst, die -COOH- oder SO3H- Gruppen und quartäre Ammoniumgruppen enthalten. Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term "amphoteric polymers" encompasses both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SCbH groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO or -SCb ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or SO3H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte amphotere und/oder kationische Polymere sind solche Polymerisate, in denen sich eine kationische Gruppe ableitet von mindestens einem der folgenden Monomere: (i) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Monol ), Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers: (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),
R -CH=CR2-CO-Z-(CnH2n)-N<+)R2R3R4 A« (Monol ) R is -CH = CR 2 -CO-Z- (C n H 2 n) -N <+) R 2 R 3 R 4 A '(monol)
in der R und R2 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R3, R4und R5 unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoff-Atomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A( ) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, in which R and R 2 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A () is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (Mono2),
Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),
worin R6 und R7 unabhängig voneinander stehen für eine (O bis C4)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für eine Methylgruppe und wherein R 6 and R 7 are independently an (O to C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and
A" das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, A "is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,
(iii) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (Mono3), (iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),
R8-CH=CR9-COOH (Mono3) R 8 -CH = CR 9 -COOH (mono 3)
in denen R8 und R9 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind. in which R 8 and R 9 are independently hydrogen or methyl groups.
Besonders bevorzugt sind solche Polymerisate, bei denen Monomere des Typs (i) eingesetzt werden, bei denen R3, R4 und R5 Methylgruppen sind, Z eine NH-Gruppe und A( ) ein Halogenid-, Methoxysulfat- oder Ethoxysulfat-Ion ist; Acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-ammoniumchlorid ist ein besonders bevorzugtes Monomeres (i). Als Monomeres (ii) für die genannten Polymerisate wird bevorzugt Acrylsäure verwendet.
Besonders bevorzugte amphotere Polymere sind Copolymere, aus mindestens einem Monomer (Monol ) bzw. (Mono2) mit dem Momomer (Mono3), insbesondere Copolymere aus den Monomeren (Mono2) und (Mono3). Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt verwendete amphotere Polymere sind Copolymerisate aus Diallyl-dimethylammoniumchlorid und Acrylsäure. Diese Copolymerisate werden unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-22 unter anderem mit dem Handelsnamen Merquat® 280 (Nalco) vertrieben. Particularly preferred are those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used in which R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A () is a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used. Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These copolymers are sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ® 280 (Nalco).
Darüber hinaus können die erfindungsgemäßen amphoteren Polymere neben einem Monomer In addition, the amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer
(Monol ) oder (Mono2) und einem Monomer (Mono3) zusätzlich ein Monomer (Mono4) (Monol) or (mono 2) and one monomer (mono 3) additionally one monomer (mono 4)
(iv) monomere Carbonsäureamide der allgemeinen Formel (Mono4),
(iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),
in denen R 0 und R unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind und R 2 für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine (Ci- bis Cs)-Alkylgruppe steht, enthalten. in which R 0 and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R 2 is a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8) -alkyl group.
Erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt verwendete amphotere Polymere auf Basis eines Comonomers (Mono4) sind Terpolymere aus Diallyldimethylammoniumchlorid, Acrylamid und Acrylsäure. Diese Copolymerisate werden unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-39 unter anderem mit dem Handelsnamen Merquat® Plus 3330 (Nalco) vertrieben. Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).
Die amphoteren Polymere können generell sowohl direkt als auch in Salzform, die durch Neutralisation der Polymerisate, beispielsweise mit einem Alkalihydroxid, erhalten wird, erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.
Die amphoteren Polymere sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The amphoteric polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Bei den anionischen Polymeren handelt es sich um anionische Polymere, welche Carboxylat- und/oder Sulfonatgruppen aufweisen. Beispiele für anionische Monomere, aus denen derartige Polymere bestehen können, sind Acrylsäure, Methacrylsäure, Crotonsäure, Maleinsäureanhydrid und 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure. Dabei können die sauren Gruppen ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen. Bevorzugte Monomere sind 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure und Acrylsäure. The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
Als ganz besonders wirkungsvoll haben sich anionische Polymere erwiesen, die als alleiniges oder Co-Monomer 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfonsäure enthalten, wobei die Sulfonsäuregruppe ganz oder teilweise als Natrium-, Kalium-, Ammonium-, Mono- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz vorliegen kann. Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
Besonders bevorzugt ist das Homopolymer der 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon-säure, das beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Rheothik®1 1-80 im Handel erhältlich ist. More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ® 1 1-80 is.
Innerhalb dieser Ausführungsform kann es bevorzugt sein, Copolymere aus mindestens einem anionischen Monomer und mindestens einem nichtionogenen Monomer einzusetzen. Bezüglich
der anionischen Monomere wird auf die oben aufgeführten Substanzen verwiesen. Bevorzugte nichtionogene Monomere sind Acrylamid, Methacrylamid, Acrylsäureester, Methacrylsäureester, Vinylpyrrolidon, Vinylether und Vinylester. Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. In terms of the anionic monomers are referred to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
Bevorzugte anionische Copolymere sind Acrylsäure-Acrylamid-Copolymere sowie insbesondere Polyacrylamidcopolymere mit Sulfonsäuregruppen-haltigen Monomeren. Ein solches Polymer ist in dem Handelsprodukt Sepigel®305 der Firma SEPPIC enthalten. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
Auch die unter der Bezeichnung Simulgel®600 als Compound mit Isohexadecan und Polysorbat-80 vertriebenen Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat-Copolymere haben sich als erfindungsgemäß besonders wirksam erwiesen. Also sold under the name Simulgel ® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.
Ebenfalls bevorzugte anionische Homopolymere sind unvernetzte und vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren. Dabei können Allylether von Pentaerythrit, von Sucrose und von Propylen bevorzugte Vernet- zungsagentien sein. Solche Verbindungen sind beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Carbopol® im Handel erhältlich. Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ® commercially.
Copolymere aus Maleinsäureanhydrid und Methylvinylether, insbesondere solche mit Vernetzungen, sind ebenfalls farberhaltende Polymere. Ein mit 1 ,9-Decadiene vernetztes Maleinsäure- Methylvinylether-Copolymer ist unter der Bezeichnung Stabileze® QM im Handel erhältlich. Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ® Stabileze QM.
Die anionischen Polymere sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Ein erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugtes Polyurethan ist unter der Handelsbezeichnung Luviset® PUR (BASF) im Handel. An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ® PUR (BASF).
Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel können in einer weiteren Ausführungsform nichtionogene Polymere enthalten. In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.
Geeignete nichtionogene Polymere sind beispielsweise: Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:
Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol® VA 64 und Luviskol® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrro- lidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere. Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each Vinylpyrro- lidon / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhy- droxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal® und Benecel® (AQUALON) und Natrosol®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden. Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose Methylhy-, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules).
Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure® XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke; Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
Schellack shellac
Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ® (BASF).
Die nichtionischen Polymere sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Es ist erfindungsgemäß auch möglich, dass die verwendeten Zubereitungen mehrere, insbeson-
dere zwei verschiedene Polymere gleicher Ladung und/oder jeweils ein ionisches und ein ampho- teres und/oder nicht ionisches Polymer enthalten. It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used have several, in particular which contain two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and a amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.
Die Polymere (P) sind in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,01 bis 30 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung, enthalten. Mengen von 0,01 bis 25, insbesondere von 0,01 bis 15 Gew.-%, sind besonders bevorzugt. The polymers (P) are preferably present in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.
Als weiteren optionalen Inhaltstoff enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel bevorzugt mindestens ein Silikonpolymer ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der Dimethiconole und/oder der Gruppe der amino- funktionellen Silikone und / oder der Gruppe der Dimethicone und / oder der Gruppe der Cyclome- thicone. Diese Inhaltsstoffe werden im Folgenden beschrieben. As a further optional ingredient, the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. These ingredients are described below.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Dimethicone können sowohl linear als auch verzweigt als auch cyclisch oder cyclisch und verzweigt sein. Lineare Dimethicone können durch die folgende Strukturformel (Sil ) dargestellt werden: The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil):
(SiR 3) - O - (SiR22 - O - )x - (SiR 3) (Sil ) (SiR 3 ) - O - (SiR 2 2 - O -) x - (SiR 3 ) (Sil)
Verzweigte Dimethicone können durch die Strukturformel (Sil 1 ) dargestellt werden: Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil 1):
Die Reste R und R2 stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für Wasserstoff, einen Methylrest, einen C2 bis C30 linearen, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen Phenylrest und/oder eine Arylrest. Die Zahlen x, y und z sind ganze Zahlen und laufen jeweils unabhängig voneinander von 0 bis 50.000. Die Molgewichte der Dimethicone liegen zwischen 1000 D und 10000000 D. Die Viskositäten liegen zwischen 100 und 10000000 cPs gemessen bei 25 °C mit Hilfe eines Glaskapillarviskosimeters nach der Dow Corning Corporate Testmethode CTM 0004 vom 20. Juli 1970. Bevorzugte Viskositäten liegen zwischen 1000 und 5000000 cPs, ganz besonders bevorzugte Viskositäten liegen zwischen 10000 und 3000000 cPs. Der bevorzugteste Bereich liegt zwischen 50000 und 2000000 cPs. Höchst bevorzugt sind Viskositäten um den Bereich von etwa 60.000 cPs herum. Beispielhaft sei hier auf das Produkt„Dow Corning 200 mit 60000cSt" verwiesen. The radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Sil .2) Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)
(CH3)3Si-[0-Si(CH3)2]x-0-Si(CH3)3 (Sil .2), (CH 3 ) 3 Si - [0-Si (CH 3 ) 2] x-0-Si (CH 3 ) 3 (Sil. 2),
enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 0 bis 100, vorzugsweise von 0 bis 50, weiter bevorzugt von 0 bis 20 und insbesondere 0 bis 10, steht. in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
Die Dimethicone (Sil ) sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen in Mengen von 0,01
bis 10 Gew.%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 8 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 bis 7,5 Gew.% und insbesondere 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.% bezogen auf die gesamte Zusammensetzung enthalten. The dimethicones (Sil) are present in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01 to 8 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0, 1 to 5 wt.% Based on the total composition.
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel enthalten ein oder mehrere aminofunktionelle Silikone. Solche Silikone können z.B. durch die Formel (Si-2) Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may e.g. by the formula (Si-2)
M(RaQbSiO(4-a-b)/2)x(RcSiO(4-c)/2)yM (Si-2) M (RaQbSiO (4-a-b) / 2) x (RcSiO (4-c) / 2) yM (Si-2)
Beschrieben werden, wobei in der obigen Formel Be described, taking in the above formula
R ein Kohlenwasserstoff oder ein Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 1 bis etwa 6 R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6
Kohlenstoffatomen ist, Carbon atoms,
Q ein polarer Rest der allgemeinen Formel -R HZ ist, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ,
worin wherein
R eine zweiwertige, verbindende Gruppe ist, die an Wasserstoff und den Rest Z gebunden ist, zusammengesetzt aus Kohlenstoff- und Wasserstoffatomen, Kohlenstoff-, Wasserstoff- und Sauerstoffatomen oder Kohlenstoff-, Wasserstoff- und Stickstoffatomen, und R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and
Z ein organischer, aminofunktioneller Rest ist, der mindestens eine aminofunktionelle Gruppe enthält; Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;
a Werte im Bereich von etwa 0 bis etwa 2 annimmt, a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,
b Werte im Bereich von etwa 1 bis etwa 3 annimmt, b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,
a + b kleiner als oder gleich 3 ist, und a + b is less than or equal to 3, and
c eine Zahl im Bereich von etwa 1 bis etwa 3 ist, und c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and
x eine Zahl im Bereich von 1 bis etwa 2.000, vorzugsweise von etwa 3 bis etwa 50 und am bevorzugtesten von etwa 3 bis etwa 25 ist, und x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and
y eine Zahl im Bereich von etwa 20 bis etwa 10.000, vorzugsweise von etwa 125 bis etwa y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about
10.000 und am bevorzugtesten von etwa 150 bis etwa 1.000 ist, und 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and
M eine geeignete Silikon-Endgruppe ist, wie sie im Stande der Technik bekannt ist, vorzugsweise Trimethylsiloxy. M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.
Z ist gemäß Formel (Si-2) ein organischer, aminofunktioneller Rest, enthaltend mindestens eine funktionelle Aminogruppe. Eine mögliche Formel für besagtes Z ist NH(CH2)zNH2, worin z eine ganze Zahl von größer gleich 1 ist. Eine andere mögliche Formel für besagtes Z ist -NH(CH2)z(CH 2)zzNH , worin sowohl z als auch zz unabhängig voneinander eine ganze Zahl von größer gleich 1 sind, wobei diese Struktur Diamino-Ringstrukturen umfasst, wie Piperazinyl. Besagtes Z ist am bevorzugtesten ein -NHCH2CH 2NH2-Rest. Eine andere mögliche Formel für besagtes Z ist - N(CH2)z(CH2)zzNX2 oder -NX2, worin jedes X von X2 unabhängig ausgewählt ist aus der Gruppe bestehend aus Wasserstoff und Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, und zz 0 ist. Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2) z NH 2, where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2) z (CH 2) zzNH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH 2) z (CH 2) zzNX 2 or -NX 2, wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.
Q gemäß Formel (Si-2) ist am bevorzugtesten ein polarer aminofunktioneller Rest der Formel -CH2CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH 2. Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of the formula -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2.
In der Formel (Si-2) nimmt a Werte im Bereich von 0 bis 2 an, b nimmt Werte im Bereich von 2 bis 3 an, a + b ist kleiner als oder gleich 3, und c ist eine Zahl im Bereich von 1 bis 3. Erfindungsgemäß geeignet sind kationische Silikonöle wie beispielsweise die im Handel
erhältlichen Produkte Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) sowie SLM-55067 (Wacker). In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. Suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils, such as those commercially available available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker).
Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens es ein aminofunktionelles Silikon der Formel (Si3-a) Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)
(CH3)3Si-[0-Si(CH3)2]n[0-Si(CH3)]m-OSi(CH3)3 (Si-3a), (CH 3 ) 3 Si - [0-Si (CH 3 ) 2] n [O-Si (CH 3 )] m -OSi (CH 3 ) 3 (Si-3a),
I I
CH2CH(CH3)CH2NH(CH2)2NH2 CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 NH (CH 2 ) 2 NH 2
enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
Diese Silikone werden nach der INCI-Deklaration als Trimethylsilylamodimethicone bezeichnet und sind beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon) erhältlich. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).
Besonders bevorzugt sind auch erfindungsgemäße Mittel, die mindestens ein aminofunktionelles Silikon der Formel (Si-3b) Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)
R-[Si(CH3)2-0]ni[Si(R')-0]m-[Si(CH3)2-0]n2-SiMe2R (Si-3b), R- [Si (CH3) 2-0] ni [Si (R ') - 0] m- [Si (CH3) 2-0] n2 SiMe 2 R (Si-3b),
I I
enthalten, worin contain, in which
R für -OH, eine (gegebenenfalls ethoxylierte und/oder propoxylierte) (Ci bis C20)- R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci to C20) -
Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH3-Gruppe steht, Alkoxy group or a -CH 3 group,
R' für -OH, eine (C1 bis C2o)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine -CH3-Gruppe und R 'represents -OH, a (C1 to C2o) alkoxy group or a -CH3 group and
m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte vonm, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values of
1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt. 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.
Diese Silikone werden nach der INCI-Deklaration als Amodimethicone, bzw. als funktionalisierte Amodimethicone, wie beispielsweise Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt: DC 8500 der Firma Dow Corning erhältlich), Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone (beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt Silcare Silicone SEA der Firma Clariant erhältlich) bezeichnet. Geeignete diquaternäre Silikone sind ausgewählt aus Verbindungen der allgemeinen Formel (Si3c) [R R 2R3N+ - A - SiR7R8 - (O-SiR9R 0)n - O - SiR R12 - A - N+R4R5R6] 2X" (Si3c) These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant). Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [RR 2 R 3 N + - A - SiR 7 R 8 - (O-SiR 9 R 0) n - O - SiR R 12 - A - N + R 4 R 5 R 6 ] 2X " (Si 3c)
wobei die Reste R1 bis R6 unabhängig voneinander C1-bis C22-Alkylreste bedeuten, welche Hydroxygruppen enthalten können und wobei vorzugsweise mindestens einer der Reste mindestens 8 C-Atome aufweist und die übrigen Reste 1 bis 4 C-Atome aufweisen, where R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,
die Reste R7 bis R12 unabhängig voneinander gleich oder verschieden sind und C1 -bis C10-Alkyl oder Phenyl bedeuten, A eine divalente organische Verbindungsgruppe bedeutet, the radicals R 7 to R 12, independently of one another, are identical or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl, A is a divalent organic compound group,
n eine Zahl von 0 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 10 bis 120, besonders bevorzugt von 10 bis 40 ist, und X" ein Anion ist.
Die divalente Verbindungsgruppe ist vorzugsweise eine C1-bis C12-Alkylen- oder Alkoxyalkylen- gruppe, die mit einer oder mehreren Hydroxylgruppen substituiert sein kann. Besonders bevorzugt ist die Gruppe -(CH2)3-0-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-. n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X "is an anion. The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH 2 ) 3-0-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 -.
Das Anion X" kann ein Halogenidion, ein Acetat, ein organisches Carboxylat oder eine Verbindung der allgemeinen Formel RSO3" sein, worin R die Bedeutung von C1-bis C4-Alkylresten hat. The anion X " may be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO3 " , wherein R has the meaning of C1 to C4 alkyl radicals.
Ein bevorzugtes diquaternäres Silikon hat die allgemeine Formel (Si3d) A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)
[RN+Me2 - A - (SiMe20)n - SiMe2- A - N+Me2R] 2 CH3COO" (Si3d), [RN + Me 2 -A- (SiMe 2 O) n -SiMe 2 -A-N + Me 2 R] 2 CH 3 COO " (Si 3 d),
wobei A die Gruppe -(CH2)3 - O - CH2 - CH(OH) - CH2 -ist, where A is the group - (CH 2 ) 3 - O - CH 2 - CH (OH) - CH 2 -,
R ein Alkylrest mit mindestens 8 C-Atomen und n eine Zahl von 10 bis 120 ist. R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.
Geeignete Silikonpolymere mit zwei endständigen, quaternären Ammoniumgruppen sind unter der Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are among
INCI-Bezeichnung Quaternium-80 bekannt. Hierbei handelt es sich um Dimethylsiloxane mit zwei endständigen Trialkylammoniumgruppen. Derartige diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane werden von der Firma Evonik unter den Handelsnamen Abil® Quat 3270, 3272 und 3474 vertrieben. INCI name Quaternium-80 known. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie, bezogen auf ihr Gewicht, 0,01 bis 10 Gew.%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 8 Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8
Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 7,5 Gew.% und insbesondere 0,2 bis 5 Gew.% aminofunk- tionelle(s) Silikon(e) und/oder diquaternäres Silikon enthalten. Wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, 1 to 7.5 wt.% And in particular 0.2 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional (s) silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.
Als Silikon können die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mindestens eine Polyammonium- Polysiloxan Verbindung enthalten. Die Polyammonium-Polysiloxan Verbindungen können beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Baysilone® von GE Bayer Silicones bezogen werden. Die Produkte mit den Bezeichnungen Baysilone TP 391 1 , SME 253 und SFE 839 sind dabei bevorzugt. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist die Verwendung von Baysilone TP 391 1 als Wirkkomponente der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen. Die Polyammonium-Polysiloxan Verbindungen sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.% , vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 7,5, besonders bevorzugt 0,01 bis 5,0 Gew.%, ganz besonders bevorzugt von 0,05 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, jeweils in Bezug auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, enthalten. As silicone, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products with the names Baysilone TP 391 1, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 391 1 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. In the compositions according to the invention, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are present in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0 , 05 to 2.5 wt .-%, each with respect to the total composition included.
Darüber hinaus können auch weitere kationisches aminofunktionelle Silikonpolymere verwendet werden. Die EP 1887024 A1 beschreibt neuartige kationische aminofunktionelle Silikone, welche insbesondere den Glanz in Mitteln zur Pflege von Oberflächen, beispielsweise menschlichen Haaren, verbessern. Diese kationischen Silikonpolymere zeichnen sich dadurch aus, dass sie ein Silikongerüst sowie mindestens einen Polyetherteil und weiterhin mindestens einen Teil mit Ammoniumstruktur aufweisen. Beispiele für die bevorzugten kationischen Silikonpolymere im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind neben den Verbindungen der zuvor genannten EP 1887024 A1 weiterhin insbesondere die Verbindungen mit den INCI - Bezeichnungen: Silicone Quaternium-1 , Sili- cone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium-4, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-1 1 , Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21 , Silicone Quaternium-22 sowie Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate
und Silicone Quaternium-16/Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Am bevorzugtesten ist insbesondere Silicone Quaternium-22. Dieser Rohstoff wird beispielsweise von der Firma Evonik unter der Handelsbezeichnung Abil® Quat T 60 vertrieben. In addition, other cationic amino-functional silicone polymers can also be used. EP 1887024 A1 describes novel cationic amino-functional silicones which in particular improve the gloss in agents for the care of surfaces, for example human hair. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and at least one polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure. Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are, in addition to the compounds of the aforementioned EP 1887024 A1, in particular the compounds with the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-1 1, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw material is sold, for example, by the company Evonik under the trade name Abil ® Quat T 60th
Die zuvor genannten kationischen aminofunktionellen Silikonpolymere sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen in Mengen von 0,01 bis 20 Gew.%, bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 10 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,1 bis 7,5 Gew.% enthalten. Die allerbesten Ergebnisse werden dabei mit Mengen von 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.% jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung des jeweiligen Mittels erhalten. Erfindungsgemäß kann es besonders vorteilhaft sein, wenn als Silikone ausschließlich die zuvor genannten Silikone verwendet werden. Auch die nach INCI als Cyclomethicone bezeichneten cyclischen Dimethicone sind erfindungsgemäß mit Vorzug einsetzbar. Hier sind erfindungsgemäße kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen bevorzugt, die mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-4)
The abovementioned cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight .% contain. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt.%, In each case based on the total composition of the respective agent. According to the invention it may be particularly advantageous if only the aforementioned silicones are used as silicones. The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)
(Si-4) (Si-4)
enthalten, in der x für eine Zahl von 3 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 3 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 3 bis 7 und insbesondere 3, 4, 5 oder 6, steht. in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.
Erfindungsgemäß ebenfalls bevorzugte Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens ein Silikon der Formel (Si-5) Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)
R3Si-[0-SiR2]x-(CH2)n-[0-SiR2]y-0-SiR3 (Si-5), R 3 Si [0-SiR 2] x- (CH 2 ) n- [0-SiR 2] y-0-SiR 3 (Si-5),
enthalten, in der R für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe -H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, -CH2-CH(CH3)Ph, der Ci-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH3, -CH2CH3, -CH2CH2CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH2CH2H3, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -C(CH3)3, steht, x bzw. y für eine Zahl von 0 bis 200, vorzugsweise von 0 bis 10, weiter bevorzugt von 0 bis 7 und insbesondere 0, 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5 oder 6, stehen, und n für eine Zahl von 0 bis 10, bevorzugt von 1 bis 8 und insbesondere für 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 steht. in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) Ph, the Ci-20-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 H 3, -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2, -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -C (CH 3 ) 3 , x and y represent a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.
Als weitere Silikone neben den Dimethiconen, Dimethiconolen, Amodimethiconen und/oder Cyclo- methiconen können wasserlösliche Silikone in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen enthalten sein. As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclo-methicones, water-soluble silicones can be present in the compositions according to the invention.
Entsprechende hydrophile Silikone werden beispielsweise aus den Verbindungen der Formeln (Si- 6) und/oder (Si-7) ausgewählt. Insbesondere bevorzugte wasserlösliche Tenside auf Silikonbasis sind ausgewählt aus der Gruppe der Dimethiconcopolyole die bevorzugt alkoxyliert, insbesondere polyethoxyliert oder polypropoxyliert sind. Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.
Unter Dimethiconcopolyolen werden erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt Polyoxyalkylen-modifizierte Dimethylpolysiloxane der allgemeinen Formeln (Si-6) oder (Si-7) verstanden:
Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):
worin der Rest R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder eine Hydroxylgruppe, die Reste R' und R" bedeuten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt von 20 bis 30, y steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 10 und a und b stehen für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 50, bevorzugt von 10 bis 30. in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30 ,
Besonders bevorzugte Dimethiconcopolyole im Sinne der Erfindung sind beispielsweise die kommerziell unter dem Handelsnamen SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) und DOW CORNING vertriebenen Produkte. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Dimethiconcopolyole sind Dow Corning 190 und Dow Corning 193. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.
Die Dimethiconcopolyole sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen in Mengen von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 8 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 7,5 Gew.% und insbesondere 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.% an Dimethiconcopolyol bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung. The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.
Schließlich werden unter den Silikonverbindungen die Dimethiconole (Si8) verstanden. Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Dimethiconole können sowohl linear als auch verzweigt als auch cyclisch oder cyclisch und verzweigt sein. Lineare Dimethiconole können durch die folgende Strukturformel (Si8 - I) dargestellt werden: Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. The dimethiconols preferred according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):
(SiOHR 2) - O - (SiR22 - O - )x - (SiOHR 2) (Si8 - I) (SiOHR 2 ) - O - (SiR 2 2 - O -) x - (SiOHR 2 ) (Si 8 - I)
Verzweigte Dimethiconole können durch die Strukturformel (Si8 - II) dargestellt werden: Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):
Die Reste R und R2 stehen unabhängig voneinander jeweils für Wasserstoff, einen Methylrest, einen C2 bis C30 linearen, gesättigten oder ungesättigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest, einen Phenylrest und/oder eine Arylrest. Die Zahlen x, y und z sind ganze Zahlen und laufen jeweils unabhängig
voneinander von 0 bis 50.000. Die Molgewichte der Dimethiconole liegen zwischen 1000 D und 10000000 D. Die Viskositäten liegen zwischen 100 und 10000000 cPs gemessen bei 25 °C mit Hilfe eines Glaskapillarviskosimeters nach der Dow Corning Corporate Testmethode CTM 0004 vom 20. Juli 1970. Bevorzugte Viskositäten liegen zwischen 1000 und 5000000 cPs, ganz besonders bevorzugte Viskositäten liegen zwischen 10000 und 3000000 cPs. Der bevorzugteste Bereich liegt zwischen 50000 und 2000000 cPs. The radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.
Als Beispiele für derartige Produkte werden die folgenden Handelsprodukte genannt: Dow Corning 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (alle vier zuvor genannten GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker- Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (alle zuvor genannten Wacker-Chemie GmbH). Die Dimethiconole (Si8) sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen in Mengen von 0,01 bis 10 Gew.%, vorzugsweise 0,01 bis 8 Gew.%, besonders bevorzugt 0,1 bis 7,5 Gew.% und insbesondere 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.% an Dimethiconol bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung. Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of dimethiconol based on the composition.
Ein weiterer erfindungsgemäßer synergistischer Wirkstoff in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mit der erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombination sind Proteinhydrolysate und/oder deren Derivate (P). Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the combination of active substances according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives (P).
Erfindungsgemäß können Proteinhydrolysate sowohl pflanzlichen als auch tierischen oder marinen oder synthetischen Ursprungs eingesetzt werden. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.
Tierische Proteinhydrolysate sind beispielsweise Elastin-, Kollagen-, Keratin-, Seiden- und Milchei- weiß-Proteinhydrolysate, die auch in Form von Salzen vorliegen können. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
Weiterhin sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte pflanzliche Proteinhydrolysaten wie beispielsweise Soja-, Mandel-, Erbsen-, Moringa-, Kartoffel- und Weizenproteinhydrolysate. Solche Produkte sind beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Gluadin® (BASF), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex), Hydrosoy® (Croda), Hydrolupin® (Croda), Hydrosesame® (Croda), Hydrotritium® (Croda), Crotein® (Croda) und Puricare® LS 9658 von der Fa. Laboratoires Serobiologiques erhältlich. Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (BASF), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ® (Croda), hydro Lupine ® (Croda), hydro Sesame ® (Croda), Hydro tritium ® (Croda), Crotein ® (Croda) and Puricare ® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques.
Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Proteinhydrolysate sind maritimen Ursprungs. Hierzu zählen beispielsweise Kollagenhydrolysate von Fischen oder Algen sowie Proteinhydrolysate von Muscheln bzw. Perlenhydrolysate. Beispiele für erfindungsgemäße Perlenextrakte sind die Handelsprodukte Pearl Protein Extract BG® oder Crodarom® Pearl. Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ® or Crodarom ® Pearl.
Die Proteinhydrolysate (P) sind in den Zusammensetzungen in Konzentrationen von 0,001 Gew.% bis zu 20 Gew.%, vorzugsweise von 0,05 Gew.% bis zu 15 Gew.% und ganz besonders bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 Gew.% bis zu 5 Gew.% enthalten. The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and most preferably in amounts of 0.05% by weight. up to 5% by weight.
Die Wirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen kann weiterhin durch eine 2-Pyrrolidi- ηοη-5-carbonsäure und deren Derivate (J) gesteigert werden. Bevorzugt sind die Natrium-, Kalium- , Calcium-, Magnesium- oder Ammoniumsalze, bei denen das Ammoniumion neben Wasserstoff eine bis drei Ci- bis C4-Alkylgruppen trägt. Das Natriumsalz ist ganz besonders bevorzugt. Die ein-
gesetzten Mengen in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln betragen 0,05 bis 10 Gew.%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, besonders bevorzugt 0, 1 bis 5, und insbesondere 0,1 bis 3 Gew.%. The effect of the compositions of the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidi- ηοη-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The A- set amounts in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt.%, Based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt.%.
Eine weitere bevorzugte Gruppe von Inhaltsstoffen der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen mit der erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkombination sind Vitamine, Provitamine oder Vitaminvorstufen. Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient combination according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
Vitamine, Pro-Vitamine und Vitaminvorstufen sind dabei besonders bevorzugt, die den Gruppen A, B, C, E, F und H zugeordnet werden. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
Zur Gruppe der als Vitamin A bezeichneten Substanzen gehören das Retinol (Vitamin Ai ) sowie das 3,4-Didehydroretinol (Vitamin A2). Das ß-Carotin ist das Provitamin des Retinols. Als Vitamin A-Komponente kommen erfindungsgemäß beispielsweise Vitamin A-Säure und deren Ester, Vitamin A-Aldehyd und Vitamin A-Alkohol sowie dessen Ester wie das Palmitat und das Acetat in Betracht. Die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel enthalten die Vitamin A-Komponente bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Zubereitung. The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
Zur Vitamin B-Gruppe oder zu dem Vitamin B-Komplex gehören u. a. Vitamin B1 (Thiamin), Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin), Vitamin B3: unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist; Vitamin Bs (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie kationische Panthenolderivate. Pantothensäure wird bevorzugt als Derivat in Form der stabileren Calciumsalze und Natriumsalze (Ca-Pantothenat, Na-Pantothenat) in der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt; Vitamin Ββ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal). The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a. Vitamin B1 (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin), vitamin B3: under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often used. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is preferably contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent; Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention; Vitamin Ββ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B -Typs insbesondere Vitamin B3, Bs und Ββ, sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 - 10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0, 1 - 5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt. The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B3, Bs and ββ, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
Vitamin C (Ascorbinsäure). Vitamin C wird in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0, 1 bis 3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel eingesetzt. Die Verwendung in Form des Palmitinsäureesters, der Glucoside oder Phosphate kann bevorzugt sein. Die Verwendung in Kombination mit Tocopherolen kann ebenfalls bevorzugt sein. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
Vitamin E (Tocopherole, insbesondere α-Tocopherol). Tocopherol und seine Derivate, worunter insbesondere die Ester wie das Acetat, das Nicotinat, das Phosphat und das Succinat fallen, sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
Vitamin F. Unter dem Begriff "Vitamin F" werden üblicherweise essentielle Fettsäuren, insbesondere Linolsäure, Linolensäure und Arachidonsäure, verstanden. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
Vitamin H. Als Vitamin H wird die Verbindung (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imid-
azol-4-valeriansäure bezeichnet, für die sich aber inzwischen der Trivialname Biotin durchgesetzt hat. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten. Vitamin H. As vitamin H, the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imide azol-4-valeric acid, for which, however, has now prevailed the trivial name biotin. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
Bevorzugt enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Vitamine, Provitamine und Vitaminvorstufen aus den Gruppen A, B, E und H. Panthenol, Pantolacton, Pyridoxin und seine Derivate sowie Nicotinsäureamid und Biotin sind besonders bevorzugt. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
Eine besonders bevorzugte Gruppe von Inhaltsstoffen in den erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Zusammensetzungen sind die im folgenden genannten Betaine: Carnitin, Carnitintartrat, Carnitin Magnesiumeitrat, Acetylcarnitin, Betalaine, 1 ,1-Dimethyl-Prolin, Cholin, Cholinchlorid, Cholinbi- tartrat, Cholindihydrogencitrat und die in der Literatur als Betain bezeichnete Verbindung Ν,Ν,Ν- trimethylglycin. A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalaines, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bi- tartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in US Pat Literature referred to as betaine compound Ν, Ν, Ν trimethylglycine.
Bevorzugt werden Carnitin, Histidin, Cholin sowie Betain verwendet. In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung wird als Wirkstoff L-Carnitintartrat eingesetzt. Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
Ein besonders wesentlicher Inhaltsstoff ist Taurin und/oder ein Derivat des Taurines. Unter Taurin wird ausschließlich 2-Aminoethansulfonsäure und unter einem Derivat werden die explizit genannten Derivate des Taurines verstanden. Unter den Derivaten des Taurines werden N-Monomethyl- taurin, Ν,Ν-Dimethyltaurin, Taurinlysylat, Taurintartrat, Taurinornithat, Lysyltaurin und Ornithyltaurin verstanden. Weitere Taurinderivate im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind die Taurocholsäure und Hypotaurin. A particularly important ingredient is taurine and / or a derivative of taurine. Taurine is exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative is understood to mean the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, Ν, Ν-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine. Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.
Besonders bevorzugt sind erfindungsgemäße Mittel, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,0001 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0005 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,001 bis 2,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,001 bis 1 ,0 Gew.-% Taurin und/oder eines Derivates des Taurines enthalten. In einer weiteren erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Biochinone. In den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln sind unter geeigneten Biochinonen ein oder mehrere Ubichinon(e) und/oder Plastochinon(e) zu verstehen. Die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Ubichinone weisen die folgende Formel auf: Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
Das Coenzym Q-10 ist hierbei am bevorzugtesten. Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.
Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen enthalten Purin und/oder Purinderivate in engeren Mengenbereichen. Hier sind erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,001 bis 2,5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0025 bis 1 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,005 bis 0,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,1 Gew.-% Purin(e) und/oder Purinderivat(e) enthalten. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte kosmetische Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie Purin, Adenin, Guanin, Harnsäure, Hypoxanthin, 6-Purinthiol, 6-Thioguanin, Xanthin, Coffein, Theobromin oder Theophyllin enthalten. In haarkosmetischen
Zubereitungen ist Coffein am bevorzugtesten. Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic Preparations caffeine is most preferred.
In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der vorliegenden Erfindung enthält das kosmetische Mittel Ectoin ((S)-2-Methyl-1 ,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidincarbonsäure. In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.
Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Mittel, die - bezogen auf ihr Gewicht - 0,00001 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,0001 bis 5,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,001 bis 3 Gew.-% der Wirkstoffe aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird von Carnitin, Taurin, Coenzym Q-10, Ectoin, einem Vitamin der B - Reihe, einem Purin und deren Derivaten oder physiologisch vertretbaren Salze enthalten. Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from A group formed by carnitine, taurine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a B-series vitamin, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
In einer weiteren Ausführungsform sollten die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel zusätzlich mindestens einen UV-Lichtschutzfilter enthalten. UVB-Filter können öllöslich oder wasserlöslich sein. In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
Als öllösliche Substanzen sind z.B. zu nennen: As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:
3- Benzylidencampher, z.B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher; 3-Benzylidene camphor, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;
4- Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethylhexyl- ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamyl- ester; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimt- säurepropylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester, 2-Cyano-3-phenyl-zimtsäure-2-ethylhexyl- ester (Octocrylene); Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-isopropyl- benzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester; Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4- meth-oxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexylester; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;
Triazinderivate, wie z.B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1 ,3,5-triazin undTriazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and
Octyltriazon. Octyl.
Propan-1 ,3-dione, wie z.B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion; Propane-1,3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
Als wasserlösliche Substanzen kommen in Frage: Suitable water-soluble substances are:
2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammo- nium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze; 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon- Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
5- sul-fonsäure und ihre Salze; 5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)ben- zolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze. Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
Als typische UV-A-Filter kommen insbesondere Derivate des Benzoylmethans in Frage, wie beispielsweise 1-(4'-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)propan-1 ,3-dion oder 1-Phenyl-3-(4'- isopropylphenyl)-propan-1 ,3-dion. Die UV-A und UV-B-Filter können selbstverständlich auch in Mischungen eingesetzt werden. Neben den genannten löslichen Stoffen kommen für diesen Zweck auch unlösliche Pigmente, insbesondere feindisperse Metalloxide bzw. Salze in Frage, wie beispielsweise Titandioxid, Zinkoxid, Eisenoxid, Aluminiumoxid, Ceroxid, Zirkoniumoxid, Silicate, ins-
besondere Talk, Bariumsulfat und Zinkstearat. Die Partikel sollten dabei einen mittleren Durchmesser von weniger als 100 nm, vorzugsweise zwischen 5 und 50 nm und insbesondere zwischen 15 und 30 nm aufweisen. Sie können eine sphärische Form aufweisen, es können jedoch auch solche Partikel zum Einsatz kommen, die eine ellipsoide oder in sonstiger Weise von der sphärischen Gestalt abweichende Form besitzen. As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, such as, for example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates, are also suitable for this purpose. special talc, barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
Schließlich ergeben sich durch die Verwendung von Pflanzenextrakten (L) in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen weitere Vorteile. Erfindungsgemäß sind vor allem die Extrakte aus Grünem Tee, Eichenrinde, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Henna, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Weißdorn, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Fichtennadel, Rosskastanie, Sandelholz, Wacholder, Kokosnuss, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Malve, Baldrian, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Thymian, Melisse, Hauhechel, Huflattich, Eibisch, Meristem, Ginseng, Kaffee, Kakao, Moringa, Ingwerwurzel und ayurvedische Pflanzen extra kte wie beispielsweise Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum und Nelumbo Nucifera (Kamala), Süßgräser wie Weizen, Gerste, Roggen, Hafer, Dinkel, Mais, die verschiedenen Sorten der Hirse (Rispenhirse, Fingerhirse, Kolbenhirse als Beispiele), Zuckerrohr, Weidelgras, Wiesenfuchsschwanz, Glatthafer, Straußgras, Wiesenschwingel, Pfeifengras, Bambus, Baumwollgras, Lampenputzergräser, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica auch Flammengras oder Cogon Gras genannt), Büffelgras, Schlickgräser, Hundszahngräser, Liebesgräser, Cym- bopogon (Zitronengras), Oryzeae (Reis), Zizania (Wildreis), Strandhafer, Staudenhafer, Honiggräser, Zittergräser, Rispengräser, Quecken und Echinacea, insbesondere Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (Mc Gregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench und Echinacea pallida (Nutt), aller Arten von Wein sowie Perikarp von Litchie chinensis bevorzugt. Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further advantages. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Extra kte plants such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, maize, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, Meadow foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, silt grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania ( Wild rice), marram grass, perennial oats, honey grasses, whiter grasses, bluegrasses, couch grass and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of wine and Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis.
Die Pflanzenextrakte können erfindungsgemäß sowohl in reiner als auch in verdünnter Form eingesetzt werden. Sofern sie in verdünnter Form eingesetzt werden, enthalten sie üblicherweise ca. 2 - 80 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz und als Lösungsmittel das bei ihrer Gewinnung eingesetzte Extraktionsmittel oder Extraktionsmittelgemisch. The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
Ferner können die kosmetischen Mittel weitere Wirk-, Hilfs- und Zusatzstoffe enthalten, wie beispielsweise Säuerungsmittel, wie Citronensäure und Milchsäure, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodex- trine, Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels, Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol, Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, ß-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphon- säuren, Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere, Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat, Pigmente, Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel, Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Mischungen, N2O, Dimethylether, CO2 und Luft, Antioxidantien, Parfümöle, Duftstoffe und Riechstoffe. In addition, the cosmetic agents may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, acidulants such as citric acid and lactic acid, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, zinc Omadine and climbazole, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments, stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidants, blowing agents such as Propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air, antioxidants, perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.
Bezüglich weiterer fakultativer Komponenten sowie die eingesetzten Mengen dieser Komponenten wird ausdrücklich auf die dem Fachmann bekannten einschlägigen Handbücher verwiesen.
Wie bereits erwähnt, kommt der hohen Pflegewirkung der erfindungsgemäßen Mittel besondere Bedeutung zu. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art. As already mentioned, the high care effect of the compositions according to the invention is of particular importance.
Ein weiterer Erfindungsgegenstand ist die Verwendung einer erfindungsgemäßen oder erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Zusammensetzung zur Verbesserung der Widerstandsfähigkeit der Oberfläche keratinischer Fasern gegenüber physikalischen Schädigungen. Unter physikalischen Schädigungen werden erfindungsgemäß die Einwirkung von UV - Licht, die Einwirkung von Hitze beim Föhnen, mechanische Einwirkungen beim Kämmen und Bürsten der Haare verstanden. A further subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for improving the resistance of the surface of keratinic fibers to physical damage. Physical damage is understood according to the invention to be the action of UV light, the action of heat during blow-drying, mechanical effects during combing and brushing of the hair.
Ein weiterer Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist die Verwendung einer erfindungsgemäßen oder erfindungsgemäß bevorzugten Zusammensetzung zur Verbesserung der Auswaschbeständigkeit der Farbe gefärbter keratinischer Fasern. Another object of the present invention is the use of a composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for improving the washout stability of the color of dyed keratinic fibers.
Bezüglich weiterer bevorzugter Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Verwendungen gilt mutatis mutandis das zu den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln Gesagte. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the agents according to the invention apply.
Ein weiterer Erfindungsgegenstand ist ein Verfahren zur Haarbehandlung, in dem ein kosmetisches Mittel gemäß Anspruch 1 auf das Haar aufgetragen wird und nach einer Einwirkungszeit vom Haar gespült wird. Die Einwirkungszeit beträgt bevorzugt 5 Sekunden bis 100 Minuten, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 45 Minuten und ganz besonders bevorzugt 2 bis 30 Minuten. Another subject of the invention is a hair treatment process in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time. The exposure time is preferably 5 seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 45 minutes, and most preferably 2 to 30 minutes.
Erfindungsgemäß ist weiterhin ein Verfahren, bei welchem ein kosmetisches Mittel gemäß Anspruch 1 auf das Haar aufgetragen wird und dort verbleibt. Unter„auf dem Haar verbleiben" wird erfindungsgemäß verstanden, dass das Mittel nicht unmittelbar nach dessen Anwendung wieder aus dem Haar ausgespült wird. Vielmehr verbleibt das Mittel in diesem Falle mehr als 100 Minuten bis hin zur nächsten Haarwäsche auf dem Haar. According to the invention is also a method in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there. According to the invention, "remaining on the hair" means that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after it has been used, but in this case the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash.
Bezüglich weiterer bevorzugter Ausführungsformen der erfindungsgemäßen Verfahren gilt mutatis mutandis das zu den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln Gesagte. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutandis the statements made concerning the agents according to the invention apply.
Beispiele: Examples:
Alle Mengenangaben sind in Gewichts-%. Die folgende erfindungsgemäße Haar-Conditioner- Rezeptur wurde unter Anwendung bekannter Herstellungsverfahren bereitgestellt: All quantities are in% by weight. The following hair conditioner formulation according to the invention was provided using known preparation methods:
Inhaltsstoffe ingredients
Cetearyl Alkohol 4,5 Cetearyl Alcohol 4,5
Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate 1 ,5 Distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1, 5
Glycerylmono-/-distearate 0,7 Glyceryl mono - / - distearates 0.7
3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid 3,0 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.0
2-Methyl-2,4-pentandiol 1 ,0 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol 1, 0
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine 0,4 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.4
Kakaobutter 0,6 Cocoa butter 0.6
Citronensäure 0,7 Citric acid 0.7
Methylparaben Na-Salz 0,3 Methyl paraben Na salt 0.3
Panthenol 0,2
Isoamyllaurat 2,0 Panthenol 0.2 Isoamyl laurate 2.0
Keratinhydrolysat 0,05 Keratin hydrolyzate 0.05
Phenoxyethanol 0,4 Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Parfüm 0,3 Perfume 0.3
Wasser ad 100 Water ad 100
Die nachstehenden zwei Haarconditioner-Rezepturen (erfindungsgemäß, Vergleichsrezeptur) wurden an 5 Personen im Halbseitentest angewendet und ihre Anwendungseigenschaften von 2 geschulten Friseuren beurteilt. The following two hair conditioner formulations (according to the invention, comparative formulation) were applied to 5 persons in the half-side test and assessed their application properties by 2 trained hairdressers.
Hierzu wurde das Haar der Testpersonen zunächst mit einem Shampoo gewaschen. Anschließend wurde das Haupthaar gescheitelt: auf der einen Hälfte des Kopfes wurde das Haar mit dem erfindungsgemäßen Conditioner behandelt, auf der anderen Hälfte des Kopfes wurde das Haar mit dem nicht-erfindungsgemäßen Conditioner behandelt. For this purpose, the hair of the test persons was first washed with a shampoo. Subsequently, the main hair was parted: on one half of the head, the hair was treated with the conditioner according to the invention, on the other half of the head, the hair was treated with the non-inventive conditioner.
Anschließend wurde das Haar mit Wasser gespült und entweder mit dem Föhn oder einer Trockenhaube getrocknet. erfindungsgemäßer Haarconditioner, The hair was then rinsed with water and dried either with the hair dryer or a drying hood. hair conditioner according to the invention,
Haarconditioner Vergleichsrezeptur Hair conditioner comparison recipe
Dehyquart F75 1 ,5 1 ,5 Dehyquart F75 1, 5 1, 5
Isoamyllaurat 1 ,0 - Isoamyl laurate 1, 0 -
Cutina GMS V 0,7 0,7 Cutina GMS V 0,7 0,7
Cetearyl alcohol 3,6 3,6 Cetearyl alcohol 3.6 3.6
Natriumbenzoat 0,59 0,59 Sodium benzoate 0.59 0.59
Citronensäure 1 H20 0,6 0,6 Citric acid 1 H 2 O 0.6 0.6
Quartamin BTC-131 2,5 2,5 Quartamine BTC-131 2.5 2.5
Keratinhydrolysat 0,04 0,04 Keratin hydrolyzate 0.04 0.04
Glycerin (99,5%) 1 ,0 1 ,0 Glycerol (99.5%) 1, 0 1, 0
D-Panthenol (75%) 0,2 0,2 D-panthenol (75%) 0.2 0.2
Aprikosenkernöl 0,4 0,4 Apricot kernel oil 0,4 0,4
Isopropylmyristat 0,8 0,8 Isopropyl myristate 0.8 0.8
Parfüm 0,35 0,35 Perfume 0.35 0.35
Wasser ad 100 ad 100
Die geschulten Friseure kamen zu folgenden Beurteilungen: Water ad 100 ad 100 The trained hairdressers came to the following reviews:
Die Beurteilungswerte stammen aus einer Skala von null bis 1. Werte unter 0,25 stehen für statistisch nicht signifikante Unterschiede. Werte von 0,25 bis 0,5 stehen für eine geringe Verbesserung gegenüber der Vergleichsrezeptur. Werte über 0,5 stehen für eine statistisch signifikante Verbesserung gegenüber der Vergleichsrezeptur. The assessment values are from a scale of zero to 1. Values below 0.25 represent statistically insignificant differences. Values of 0.25 to 0.5 represent a small improvement over the comparison recipe. Values above 0.5 represent a statistically significant improvement over the comparison formula.
Die erfindungsgemäße Rezeptur verhalf dem behandelten Haar zu verbessertem Griff und Glanz des trockenen Haars. Dieser Effekt war auch nach einer weiteren Haarwäsche und Trocknung (ohne Conditionerapplikation) feststellbar (Testparameter„Langzeitwirkung"). The formulation of the invention helped the treated hair to improved feel and shine of the dry hair. This effect was also detectable after further hair washing and drying (without conditioner application) (test parameter "long-term effect").
Testparameter test parameters
Ausspülbarkeit 0,2 Rinsability 0.2
Entwirrbarkeit (nass) 0, 1 Disentanglement (wet) 0, 1
Nasskämmbarkeit 0, 1 Wet combability 0, 1
Bearbeitbarkeit des Haars mit dem Föhn 0, 1 Workability of the hair with the hair dryer 0, 1
Griff (trocken) 0,4 Handle (dry) 0,4
Griff Spitzen (trocken) 0,4 Handle tips (dry) 0.4
Langzeitwirkung 0,5 Long-term effect 0.5
Glanz 0,4 Gloss 0.4
Gesamturteil 0,5
Verwendete Rohstoffe Overall rating 0.5 Used raw materials
Dehyquart F75 Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (68,5 Gew.-%), Dehyquart F75 distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (68.5 wt%),
Cetearyl Alcohol (31 ,5 Gew.-%) Cetearyl alcohol (31, 5% by weight)
Cutina GMS V Glycerol mono/dipalmitate/stearate; ca. 1 :1 -Mischung aus Glycerin- mono- und -diestern Cutina GMS V glycerol mono / dipalmitate / stearate; about 1: 1 mixture of glycerol mono- and diesters
Quartamin BTC-131 Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride (70 Gew.-%), Hexylene Glycol (2- Methylpentandiol-2,4, 17 Gew.-%), Aqua (Water, 12,2 Gew.-%), Citric Acid (0,8 Gew.-%)
Quartamine BTC-131 Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride (70 wt.%), Hexylene Glycol (2-Methylpentanediol-2,4, 17 wt.%), Aqua (Water, 12.2 wt.%), Citric Acid (0.8% by weight)
Claims
1. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung zur Konditionierung von keratinischen Fasern, enthaltend in einem kosmetischen Träger 1. Cosmetic composition for conditioning keratin fibers, contained in a cosmetic carrier
a) mindestens ein kationisches Tensid der Formel (Tkat1 -3), a) at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat1 -3),
R2 R2
+ +
R1 N— A— R4 Q R1 N—A—R4 Q
R3 R3
(Tkat1-3) (Tkat1-3)
worin R1 , R2 und R3 jeweils unabhängig voneinander bedeuten: where R1, R2 and R3 each independently mean:
Wasserstoff, mit der Maßgabe, dass R4 für R8-NH- steht, oder Hydrogen, with the proviso that R4 stands for R8-NH-, or
ein freies Elektronenpaar, mit der Maßgabe, dass R4 für R8-NH- steht und nur einer der Reste R1 , R2, R3 für ein freies Elektronenpaar steht und Q nicht erforderlich ist, oder a lone pair of electrons, with the proviso that R4 stands for R8-NH- and only one of the residues R1, R2, R3 stands for a lone pair of electrons and Q is not required, or
einen verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, der mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder a branched or linear alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, der mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder den Rest (- A - R4), mit der Maßgabe, dass höchstens 2 der Reste R1 , R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können, oder a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or the radical (- A - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 represent this radical can, or
R2 und R3 bilden eine zyklische oder heterozyklische, gegebenenfalls ungesättigte Alkylengruppe, die mit einem gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 6 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen substituiert sein kann, beispielsweise eine Imidazoliumgruppe, R2 and R3 form a cyclic or heterocyclic, optionally unsaturated alkylene group, which can be substituted with a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical with 6 to 20 carbon atoms, for example an imidazolium group,
und steht A für: and A stands for:
1 ) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 2 - 3, oder 1) -(CH2)n- with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 2 - 3, or
2) -(CH2-CHR5-0)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl, 2) -(CH2-CHR5-0)n- with n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R5 meaning hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
3) eine Hydroxyalkylengruppe mit ein bis vier, bevorzugt zwei bis drei, Kohlenstoffatomen, die verzweigt oder linear sein kann und die eine bis drei Hydroxygruppen enthält, bevorzugt eine Gruppe, ausgewählt aus >CHOH, -CH2CHOH-, -CHOHCHOH-, -CH2CHOHCH2-, >C(CH2OH)2, >C(CH2OH)2, -CH2CHOHCHOH-, -CH2CH(CH2OH)- und Hydroxybutylresten, 3) a hydroxyalkylene group with one to four, preferably two to three, carbon atoms, which can be branched or linear and which contains one to three hydroxyl groups, preferably a group selected from >CHOH, -CH2CHOH-, -CHOHCHOH-, -CH2CHOHCH2- , >C(CH 2 OH) 2 , >C(CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH2CHOHCHOH-, -CH 2 CH(CH 2 OH)- and hydroxybutyl radicals,
und R4 steht für: and R4 stands for:
- R6-COO-, worin R6 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder
linearen oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30, bevorzugt 1 1 bis 21 , besonders bevorzugt 15 bis 17, Kohlenstoffatomen darstellt, der mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten und gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxidein- heiten oxalkyliert sein kann, oder - R6-COO-, in which R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical with 6 to 30, preferably 1 1 to 21, particularly preferably 15 to 17, carbon atoms, which contains at least one hydroxy group and optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be oxalkylated, or
- R7-CO-, worin R7 einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen ist, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxalkyliert sein kann, oder - R7-CO-, in which R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further contains 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 up to 100 propylene oxide units can be oxalkylated, or
- R8-NH-, worin R8 einen linearen oder verzweigten Acyl- oder Alkylrest mit jeweils 6 bis 30 C-Atomen darstellt, der gesättigt oder ungesättigt und/oder mit mindestens einer OH-Gruppe substituiert kann, und - R8-NH-, in which R8 represents a linear or branched acyl or alkyl radical, each with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated and / or substituted with at least one OH group, and
und Q für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion steht, falls keiner der Reste R1 , R2, R3 für ein freies Elektronenpaar steht, and Q represents a physiologically compatible organic or inorganic anion if none of the radicals R1, R2, R3 represents a lone pair of electrons,
weiterhin furthermore
b) mindestens einen Ester von 3-Methyl-1-butanol mit einer Säure der allgemeinen Formel R'COOH, wobei R' einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder linearen Alkylrest mit 7 bis 29, bevorzugt 1 1 bis 21 , Kohlenstoffatomen, der mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, darstellt, b) at least one ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol with an acid of the general formula R'COOH, where R' is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or linear alkyl radical with 7 to 29, preferably 11 to 21, carbon atoms, which is at least may contain a hydroxy group, represents
wobei bevorzugt das mindestens eine kationische Tensid der Formel (Tkat1-3) in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,2 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt von 1 ,0 bis 5,0 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt von 1 ,5 bis 4,0 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist. wherein preferably the at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat1-3) in a total amount of 0.2 to 10.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, extremely preferably from 1, 5 to 4.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, is included.
Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1 , dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-3), worin Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3), wherein
R1 und R2 und R3 für Methyl stehen und R1 and R2 and R3 stand for methyl and
A für eine lineare Hydroxyalkylengruppe mit drei Kohlenstoffatomen, die eine Hydroxygruppe enthält, bevorzugt für die Gruppe -CH2CHOHCH2-, steht, und A represents a linear hydroxyalkylene group with three carbon atoms which contains a hydroxy group, preferably the group -CH2CHOHCH2-, and
R4 für R6-COO- steht und R4 stands for R6-COO- and
R6 für einen gesättigten linearen Alkylrest mit 1 1 bis 21 Kohlenstoffatomen steht und Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht. R6 represents a saturated linear alkyl radical with 11 to 21 carbon atoms and Q represents methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus 3-Behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypro- pyltrimethylammoniumchlorid.
Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from 3-behenoyloxy-2-hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
4. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-3), worin 4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3), wherein
R1 für Methyl steht und R1 stands for methyl and
R2 für 2-Hydroxyethyl steht und R2 stands for 2-hydroxyethyl and
R3 für den Rest (- A - R4) steht und R3 stands for the remainder (- A - R4) and
A für die Gruppe -CH2-CH2- steht und A stands for the group -CH2-CH2- and
R4 für R6-COO- steht und R4 stands for R6-COO- and
R6 für einen gesättigten linearen Alkylrest mit 11 bis 21 , bevorzugt 15 bis 17, Kohlenstoffatomen steht und R6 represents a saturated linear alkyl radical with 11 to 21, preferably 15 to 17, carbon atoms and
Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht. Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
5. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate. 5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.
6. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-3), worin 6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3), wherein
R1 für Methyl steht und R1 stands for methyl and
R2 und R3 bilden eine heterozyklische ungesättigte Alkylengruppe, die mit einem gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen Alkylrest mit 6 bis 20 Kohlenstoffatomen substituiert ist, A für die Gruppe -CH2-CH2- steht und R2 and R3 form a heterocyclic unsaturated alkylene group substituted with a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl radical having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, A represents the group -CH2-CH2- and
R4 für R8-NH- steht und R4 stands for R8-NH- and
R8 für einen linearen Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 10 bis 20 C-Atomen, steht, der gesättigt oder ungesättigt ist, und R8 represents a linear acyl radical with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, which is saturated or unsaturated, and
Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht. Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride.
7. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einer Verbindung mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Quaternium-87 und aus mindestens einer Verbindung mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Quaternium-27. 7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from at least one compound with the INCI name Quaternium-87 and from at least one compound with the INCI name Quaternium-27.
8. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus Verbindungen der Formel (Tkat1-3), worin 8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from compounds of the formula (Tkat1-3), wherein
R1 und R2 für Methyl stehen und R1 and R2 stand for methyl and
R3 für Wasserstoff oder ein freies Elektronenpaar steht und R3 stands for hydrogen or a lone pair of electrons and
A für die Gruppe -CH2-CH2-CH2- steht und
R4 für R8-NH- steht und A stands for the group -CH2-CH2-CH2- and R4 stands for R8-NH- and
R8 für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, bevorzugt 10 bis 20 C-Atomen, besonders bevorzugt 12 bis 18 C-Atomen, steht, der gesättigt oder ungesättigt ist, und R8 represents a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, particularly preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, which is saturated or unsaturated, and
Q für Methosulfate, Ethosulfate oder Chlorid steht, falls R3 für Wasserstoff steht. Q stands for methosulfates, ethosulfates or chloride if R3 stands for hydrogen.
9. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine kationische Tensid ausgewählt ist aus mindestens einem Amidoamin oder mindestens einem permanent kationische Amidoamin, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine, Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearamido- propyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopro- pyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33, Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyl- trimoniumchloride, Rinoleamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate sowie Mischungen hiervon, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Amidoamine Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33 und Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate sowie Mischungen hiervon, besonders bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine. 9. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant is selected from at least one amidoamine or at least one permanently cationic amidoamine, preferably selected from lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine , Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33, Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyl-trimonium chloride, Rinoleamidopropyltrimonium chloride, Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate as well Mixtures thereof, preferably selected from amidoamines stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, Cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, quaternium-33 and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate and mixtures thereof, particularly preferably selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
10. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der mindestens eine Ester von 3-Methyl-1-butanol (Isoamylalkohol) mit einer Säure der allgemeinen Formel R'COOH, der bevorzugt Isoamyllaurat ist, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0, 1 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,2 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist. 10. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the at least one ester of 3-methyl-1-butanol (isoamyl alcohol) with an acid of the general formula R'COOH, which is preferably isoamyl laurate, in a total amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1% by weight, based on the weight of the composition.
1 1. Verwendung einer kosmetischen Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10 zur Verbesserung der Widerstandsfähigkeit der Oberfläche keratinischer Fasern gegenüber physikalischen Schädigungen durch die Einwirkung von UV - Licht, die Einwirkung von Hitze beim Föhnen oder mechanische Einwirkungen beim Kämmen und Bürsten der Haare. 1 1. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 to improve the resistance of the surface of keratin fibers to physical damage caused by the action of UV light, the action of heat when blow-drying or mechanical effects when combing and brushing the hair.
12. Verwendung einer kosmetischen Zusammensetzung nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10 zur Verbesserung der Auswaschbeständigkeit der Farbe gefärbter keratinischer Fasern. 12. Use of a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 to improve the washout resistance of the color of dyed keratin fibers.
13. Verfahren zur Haarbehandlung, in dem ein kosmetisches Mittel gemäß einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10 auf das Haar aufgetragen wird und nach einer Einwirkungszeit, bevor-
zugt nach 5 Sekunden bis 100 Minuten, besonders bevorzugt nach 1 bis 45 Minuten und ganz besonders bevorzugt nach 2 bis 30 Minuten vom Haar gespült wird. 13. A method for hair treatment, in which a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 10 is applied to the hair and, after an exposure time, before is rinsed from the hair after 5 seconds to 100 minutes, particularly preferably after 1 to 45 minutes and most preferably after 2 to 30 minutes.
Verfahren zur Haarbehandlung, bei welchem ein kosmetisches Mittel gemäß einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10 auf das Haar aufgetragen wird und dort mehr als 100 Minuten bis hin zur nächsten Haarwäsche auf dem Haar verbleibt.
Method for hair treatment, in which a cosmetic agent according to one of claims 1 to 10 is applied to the hair and remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE102013226944.7A DE102013226944A1 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2013-12-20 | Conditioning agent for keratinic fibers with silicone substitute |
PCT/EP2014/076859 WO2015091049A1 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2014-12-08 | Conditioner for keratin fibers having a silicone substitute |
Publications (1)
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EP3082741A1 true EP3082741A1 (en) | 2016-10-26 |
Family
ID=52011223
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EP14808651.5A Withdrawn EP3082741A1 (en) | 2013-12-20 | 2014-12-08 | Conditioner for keratin fibers having a silicone substitute |
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US (1) | US20160296441A1 (en) |
EP (1) | EP3082741A1 (en) |
DE (1) | DE102013226944A1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2015091049A1 (en) |
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ES2610598B1 (en) * | 2017-03-27 | 2017-10-27 | Ona Investigacion, S.L. | COSMETIC PRODUCT FOR HAIR TREATMENT |
DE102021208512A1 (en) * | 2021-08-05 | 2023-02-09 | Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft | Nourishing leave-in spray for the hair |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE1693145A1 (en) * | 1961-11-02 | 1974-11-21 | Oreal | METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF NEW TERTIAER AMINES OR QUATERNAL AMMONIUM COMPOUNDS AND COSMETIC PREPARATION USING THE PRODUCTS OF THE PROCESS |
EP0847985A1 (en) * | 1996-12-11 | 1998-06-17 | L'oreal | Process for the preparation of fatty acid esters of hydroxypropylated quaternary ammonium derivatives |
DE102010062639A1 (en) * | 2010-12-08 | 2011-10-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair treatment composition, useful to treat keratin fibers, comprises e.g. Ximenia oil, quaternized cellulose derivative, polyquaternium and/or cationic alkyl polyglycosides and a fat component comprising silicones and/or oil body |
Family Cites Families (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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DE102006035512A1 (en) | 2006-07-31 | 2008-02-07 | Evonik Goldschmidt Gmbh | New polysiloxane compounds useful e.g. as a conditioning agent for hair treating agent, in hair follow-up treating agent, to prepare skin care formulations and to prepare formulations for the cleaning and caring of vehicles |
EP2316414B1 (en) * | 2008-08-08 | 2016-03-30 | Shiseido Company, Ltd. | Hair conditioner composition |
GB0912507D0 (en) * | 2009-07-17 | 2009-08-26 | Skype Ltd | Reducing processing resources incurred by a user interface |
DE102010030555A1 (en) * | 2010-06-25 | 2011-04-07 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Kit-of-parts, useful for hair treatment, comprises a hair treating composition comprising e.g. alginic acid and calcium lactate packed in a first container, and a caring composition comprising e.g. silicones packed in a second container |
DE102011087883A1 (en) * | 2011-12-07 | 2012-08-30 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Composition, useful for treating hair, comprises dicarbonylamino compounds, and optionally saturated, linear or branched monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid and/or alpha -hydroxycarboxylic acid having specified carbon atoms |
-
2013
- 2013-12-20 DE DE102013226944.7A patent/DE102013226944A1/en not_active Withdrawn
-
2014
- 2014-12-08 EP EP14808651.5A patent/EP3082741A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2014-12-08 WO PCT/EP2014/076859 patent/WO2015091049A1/en active Application Filing
-
2016
- 2016-06-17 US US15/185,237 patent/US20160296441A1/en not_active Abandoned
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE1693145A1 (en) * | 1961-11-02 | 1974-11-21 | Oreal | METHOD FOR THE PRODUCTION OF NEW TERTIAER AMINES OR QUATERNAL AMMONIUM COMPOUNDS AND COSMETIC PREPARATION USING THE PRODUCTS OF THE PROCESS |
EP0847985A1 (en) * | 1996-12-11 | 1998-06-17 | L'oreal | Process for the preparation of fatty acid esters of hydroxypropylated quaternary ammonium derivatives |
DE102010062639A1 (en) * | 2010-12-08 | 2011-10-27 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Hair treatment composition, useful to treat keratin fibers, comprises e.g. Ximenia oil, quaternized cellulose derivative, polyquaternium and/or cationic alkyl polyglycosides and a fat component comprising silicones and/or oil body |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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See also references of WO2015091049A1 * |
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WO2015091049A1 (en) | 2015-06-25 |
US20160296441A1 (en) | 2016-10-13 |
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18W | Application withdrawn |
Effective date: 20180307 |