DE102011087883A1 - Composition, useful for treating hair, comprises dicarbonylamino compounds, and optionally saturated, linear or branched monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid and/or alpha -hydroxycarboxylic acid having specified carbon atoms - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair treatment composition comprises: (a) at least one dicarbonylamino compound (I); and (b) at least one optionally saturated, linear or branched 2-12C-monocarboxylic acid, 2-12C-dicarboxylic acid and/or 2-12C-alpha -hydroxycarboxylic acid. Hair treatment composition comprises: (a) at least one dicarbonylamino compound of formula (R1-C(=O)-NH-C(R2)(R3)-C(R4)(R5)-C(R6)(R7)-O-C(=O)-R8) (I); and (b) at least one optionally saturated, linear or branched 2-12C-monocarboxylic acid, 2-12C-dicarboxylic acid and/or 2-12C-alpha -hydroxycarboxylic acid. R1, R8 : optionally saturated, optionally branched 7-29C-alkyl; and R2, R7 : H, optionally branched 1-4C-alkyl or hydroxyl. Provided that at least one and at most three R2-R7 are hydroxyl groups.

Description

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to hair treatment compositions containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one organic carboxylic acid and at least one specific amide compound.

The cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations.

Frequently repeated hair treatments, such as oxidative or reductive hair treatments, but also the too frequent cleaning of the hair, the action of hair dryer and environmental influences and / or mechanical effects, can damage hair in their structure.

The consequences of damage are often hair breakage, split ends and dull, dull and / or flying hair.

"Damage" is understood to mean the loss of natural lipids, in particular ceramides, from the cortex and the cuticle. Once removed, the lipids can no longer be naturally reproduced and must be reintroduced to the scalp and hair in the form of cosmetic products.

Cosmetic ceramide-containing hair treatment agents are known (e.g. EP 983041 . EP 1733717 ). They strengthen the hair structure and give treated hair, with regular use again an aesthetic, healthy appearance.

A problem in the production of ceramide-containing hair treatment compositions is the incorporation and stabilization of the ceramides in the cosmetic - usually aqueous - basis. In addition, the deposition of ceramides on the scalp is not always satisfactory.

The use of ceramides in hair treatment compositions for the restructuring of damaged and / or fine hair is therefore not always desirable.

There is still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic products with good care, in particular restructuring, properties and good biodegradability. Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion.

It is an object of the present invention to find care active substances and / or combinations of active substances which can be easily incorporated into a large number of cosmetic hair treatment compositions and which eliminate, reduce and / or prevent the previously mentioned hair damage.

Desirable is, in particular, the restoration of a natural, healthy, optically and haptically improved hair condition.

In this case, the hair treatment compositions are preferably based (predominantly) on active ingredients and / or combinations of active substances which are obtained from natural raw materials and which have been modified with as few chemical process steps as possible in order to be as close as possible to natural ingredients.

It has been found that a particular combination of active substances, consisting of at least one organic carboxylic acid and at least one biomimetic amide compound, is suitable for achieving these objects.

• a) mindestens eine Verbindung der nachfolgenden Formel (I)
  
  in der
• – die Reste R1 und R8 unabhängig voneinander für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit 7 bis 29 Kohlenstoffatomen, und
• – die Reste R2 bis R7 unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff, eine verzweigte oder unverzweigte C₁-C₄-Alkylgruppe oder für eine Hydroxylgruppe stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer und höchstens drei Reste R2 bis R7 für eine Hydroxylgruppe stehen, und
• b) mindestens eine gesättigte oder ungesättigte, geradkettige oder verzweigte Monocarbonsäure, Dicarbonsäure und/oder alpha-Hydroxycarbonsäure mit jeweils 2 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen enthalten.

The present invention therefore relates to hair treatment compositions which are in a cosmetic carrier

• a) at least one compound of the following formula (I)
  
  in the
• The radicals R 1 and R 8 independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 7 to 29 carbon atoms, and
• - The radicals R2 to R7 are independently hydrogen, a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, with the proviso that at least one and at most three radicals R _{2 to} R 7 are a hydroxyl group, and
• b) at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid and / or alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid having in each case 2 to 12 carbon atoms.

Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair styling agents and / or combinations thereof.

"Restructuring" in the sense of the invention is to be understood as meaning a reduction in the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to the most diverse influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, improved grip and ease of combing. In addition, they have improved strength and elasticity. Furthermore, a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.

Particularly suitable cosmetic carriers for the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are O / W, W / O and W / O / W emulsions in the form of creams or gels, but also surfactant-containing, foaming solutions and / or dispersions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are particularly suitable for use on the hair. The cosmetic carriers may in particular be aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic.

A suitable aqueous cosmetic carrier preferably contains at least 50% by weight of water. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are preferably aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohol, in particular methanol, ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol , n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, glycol, glycerol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol or 1,6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain further organic solvents, for example methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

• – einer der Reste R4/R5 für eine Hydroxylgruppe,
• – die Reste R2/R3 sowie R6/R7 unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl- oder eine Ethylgruppe, und
• – die Reste R1 und R8 unabhängig voneinander für einen gesättigten Alkylrest mit 11 bis 27, bevorzugt mit 13 bis 25 und insbesondere mit 15 bis 23 Kohlenstoffatomen.

In preferred compounds a) according to formula (I) is / stand

• One of the radicals R 4 / R 5 for a hydroxyl group,
• - The radicals R2 / R3 and R6 / R7 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or an ethyl group, and
• - The radicals R1 and R8 independently of one another represent a saturated alkyl radical having 11 to 27, preferably having 13 to 25 and in particular having 15 to 23 carbon atoms.

• – einer der Reste R4/R5 für eine Hydroxylgruppe und der andere für ein Wasserstoffatom steht,
• – die Reste R2/R3 sowie R6/R7 jeweils für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen,
• – der Rest R1 für einen gesättigten Alkylrest mit 11 bis 23, bevorzugt mit 13 bis 21, mehr bevorzugt mit 15 bis 19 und insbesondere mit 17 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, und
• – der Rest R8 für einen gesättigten Alkylrest mit 15 bis 27, bevorzugt mit 17 bis 25, mehr bevorzugt mit 19 bis 23 und insbesondere mit 21 Kohlenstoffatomen steht.

More preferred are compounds a) according to formula (I) in which

• One of the radicals R4 / R5 is a hydroxyl group and the other is a hydrogen atom,
• The radicals R 2 / R 3 and R 6 / R 7 each represent a hydrogen atom,
• The radical R 1 is a saturated alkyl radical having from 11 to 23, preferably from 13 to 21, more preferably from 15 to 19 and in particular 17 carbon atoms, and
• - The radical R8 is a saturated alkyl radical having 15 to 27, preferably 17 to 25, more preferably 19 to 23 and in particular 21 carbon atoms.

Particularly preferred compounds a) are the biomimetic amides known under the CTFA name "behenyl / stearyl aminopropanediol ester". Corresponding commercial products are available, for example from the company Solabia under the name "Rep'Hair ^®.

Compounds a) of the formula (I) can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.075 to 7.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 2 wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the respective hair treatment agent.

Under "saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched monocarboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids and / or alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids having 2 to 12 carbon atoms according to the invention" are both the free carboxylic acids, and their physiologically acceptable salts, such as their alkali, alkaline earth and / or To understand ammonium salts.

Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention comprise at least one dicarboxylic acid selected from malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, phthalic acid and / or glutamic acid and / or at least one alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid and / or tartaric acid. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain at least one alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid selected from lactic acid, malic acid and / or tartaric acid. Particularly preferred hair treatment agents contain lactic acid.

The "saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched monocarboxylic acid (s), dicarboxylic acid (s) and / or alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid (s) having in each case 2 to 12 carbon atoms" can (can) in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 4 wt .-% and in particular from 0.1 to 3 Wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the respective hair treatment agent.

• a) 0,01 bis 10 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I), in der
• – einer der Reste R4/R5 für eine Hydroxylgruppe,
• – die Reste R2/R3 sowie R6/R7 unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl- oder eine Ethylgruppe, und
• – die Reste R1 und R8 unabhängig voneinander für einen gesättigten Alkylrest mit 11 bis 27, bevorzugt mit 13 bis 25 und insbesondere mit 15 bis 23 Kohlenstoffatomen stehen, und
• b) 0,001 bis 10 Gew.-% Malonsäure, Succinsäure, Glutarsäure, Adipinsäure, Maleinsäure, Fumarsäure, Phthalsäure, Glutaminsäure, Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Tartronsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure und/oder eines Salzes und/oder eines Gemisches dieser Säuren.

In a first preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain
- based on their total weight -

• a) 0.01 to 10 wt .-% of at least one compound of formula (I), in the
• One of the radicals R 4 / R 5 for a hydroxyl group,
• - The radicals R2 / R3 and R6 / R7 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or an ethyl group, and
• - The radicals R1 and R8 independently of one another are a saturated alkyl radical having 11 to 27, preferably having 13 to 25 and in particular having 15 to 23 carbon atoms, and
• b) from 0.001 to 10% by weight of malonic, succinic, glutaric, adipic, maleic, fumaric, phthalic, glutamic, glycolic, lactic, tartronic, malic, tartaric and / or salt and / or mixtures of these acids.

• a) 0,075 bis 7,5 Gew.-% mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (I), in der
• – einer der Reste R4/R5 für eine Hydroxylgruppe und der andere für ein Wasserstoffatom steht,
• – die Reste R2/R3 sowie R6/R7 jeweils für ein Wasserstoffatom stehen,
• – der Rest R1 für einen gesättigten Alkylrest mit 11 bis 23, bevorzugt mit 13 bis 21, mehr bevorzugt mit 15 bis 19 und insbesondere mit 17 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, und
• – der Rest R8 für einen gesättigten Alkylrest mit 15 bis 27, bevorzugt mit 17 bis 25, mehr bevorzugt mit 19 bis 23 und insbesondere mit 21 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, und
• b) 0,01 bis 5 Gew.-% Milchsäure, Äpfelsäure, Weinsäure und/oder eines Salzes und/oder eines Gemisches dieser Säuren enthalten,

wobei sich die Mengenangaben auf das Gesamtgewicht des jeweiligen Haarbehandlungsmittels beziehen.Within this first embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are particularly preferred which

• a) 0.075 to 7.5 wt .-% of at least one compound of formula (I), in the
• One of the radicals R4 / R5 is a hydroxyl group and the other is a hydrogen atom,
• The radicals R 2 / R 3 and R 6 / R 7 each represent a hydrogen atom,
• The radical R 1 is a saturated alkyl radical having from 11 to 23, preferably from 13 to 21, more preferably from 15 to 19 and in particular 17 carbon atoms, and
• The radical R 8 is a saturated alkyl radical having 15 to 27, preferably 17 to 25, more preferably 19 to 23 and especially 21 carbon atoms, and
• b) 0.01 to 5% by weight of lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and / or a salt and / or a mixture of these acids,

wherein the quantities are based on the total weight of the respective hair treatment agent.

• a) 0,05 bis 5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 2 Gew.-% mindestens einer unter der CTFA-Bezeichnung „Behenyl/Stearyl aminopropandiolesters” bekannten biomimetischen Verbindung, und
• b) 0,05 bis 4 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,1 bis 3 Gew.-% Milchsäure und/oder ein Milchsäuresalz und/oder ein Gemisch aus Milchsäure und einem Milchsäuresalz.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention within this first embodiment contain - based on their total weight -

• a) 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one known under the CTFA name "behenyl / stearyl aminopropandiolesters" biomimetic compound, and
• b) 0.05 to 4 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% lactic acid and / or a lactic acid salt and / or a mixture of lactic acid and a lactic acid salt.

The deposition of the active ingredient combination (a) and b)) on the hair is a particularly important aspect of the invention. It has been found that the deposition of the active ingredient combination on the hair can be further assisted if hair treatment compositions according to the invention-based on their total weight-additionally contain 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one quaternary ammonium compound.

• – der Esterquats und/oder
• – der quarternären Imidazoline gemäß Formel (II),
  
  in welcher die Reste R unabhängig voneinander jeweils für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen und A für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht, und/oder
• – der Monoalkyltrimethylammoniumsalze mit einer Kettenlänge des Alkylrestes von 16 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen, entsprechend der Formel (III),
  
  in der R für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit einer Kettenlänge von 16 bis 24 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, und/oder
• – der Amine und/oder der kationisierten Amine und/oder
• – der Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) und/oder
• – der quaternisierten Cellulose-Derivate, insbesondere Polyquaternium-10 und/oder Polyquaternium-67, und/oder
• – der kationischen Alkylpolyglycoside und/oder
• – kationiserten Honigs und/oder
• – der kationischen Guar-Derivate und/oder
• – Chitosan und/oder
• – der polymeren Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymeren mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure und/oder
• – der Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats und/oder
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymeren und/oder
• – quaternierten Polyvinylalkohols und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 2 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium-7 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium-16 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 17 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 18 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 24 und/oder
• – Polyquaternium 27.

In a further preferred embodiment, therefore, hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least one quaternary ammonium compound. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds may be selected from the group

• - the ester quats and / or
• - the quaternary imidazolines of formula (II),
  
  in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or
• The monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts having a chain length of the alkyl radical of 16 to 24 carbon atoms, corresponding to the formula (III),
  
  in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and / or
• The amines and / or the cationized amines and / or
• - The poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumverbindungen) and / or
• The quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular polyquaternium-10 and / or polyquaternium-67, and / or
• The cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or
• - cationised honey and / or
• - the cationic guar derivatives and / or
• - Chitosan and / or
• The polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or
• - The copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or
• Quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or
• Polyquaternium 2 and / or
• Polyquaternium-7 and / or
• Polyquaternium-16 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 17 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 18 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 24 and / or
• - Polyquaternium 27.

Among quaternary ammonium compounds are monomeric cationic or amphoteric ammonium compounds, monomeric amines, aminoamides, polymeric cationic ammonium compounds and to understand polymeric amphoteric ammonium compounds. From this large number of possible quaternary ammonium compounds, the following groups have proven to be particularly suitable:
Esterquats according to the formula (IV) form the first group.

• – einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxylgruppe enthalten kann, oder
• – einen Aryl oder Alkarylrest, beispielsweise Phenyl oder Benzyl,
• – den Rest (-X-R4), mit der Maßgabe, dass höchstens 2 der Reste R1, R2 oder R3 für diesen Rest stehen können, und mit der Maßgabe, dass der Rest -(X-R4) mindestens 1 bis 3 mal enthalten ist. Hierin steht X bevorzugt für:
• 1) -(CH2)n- mit n = 1 bis 20, vorzugsweise n = 1 bis 10 und besonders bevorzugt n = 1 – 5, oder
• 2) -(CH2-CHR5-O)n- mit n = 1 bis 200, vorzugsweise 1 bis 100, besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 mit R5 in der Bedeutung von Wasserstoff, Methyl oder Ethyl,
• 3) eine Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis vier Kohlenstoffatomen, welche verzweigt oder unverzweigt sein kann, und welche mindestens eine und höchstens 3 Hydroxygruppen enthält. Beispiele sind: -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste, und R4 steht bevorzugt für:
• 1) R6-O-CO-, worin R6 bevorzugt einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen bedeutet, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann, oder
• 2) R7-CO-, worin R7 bevorzugt einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, verzweigten oder unverzweigten oder einen cyclischen gesättigten oder ungesättigten Alkylrest mit 6 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen bedeutet, welcher mindestens eine Hydroxygruppe enthalten kann, und welcher gegebenenfalls weiterhin mit 1 bis 100 Ethylenoxideinheiten und/oder 1 bis 100 Propylenoxideinheiten oxethyliert sein kann,

und A steht bevorzugt für ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion und wird an dieser Stelle stellvertretend für alle auch im folgenden beschriebenen Strukturen definiert. Das Anion aller beschriebenen kationischen Verbindungen kann ausgewählt sein aus den Halogenidionen wie Fluorid, Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid, Sulfaten der allgemeinen Formel RSO₃ ^–, worin R die Bedeutung von gesättigtem oder ungesättigtem Alkylresten mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen hat, oder anionischen Resten organischer Säuren wie Maleat, Fumarat, Oxalat, Tartrat, Citrat, Lactat oder Acetat.Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 are preferably:

• A branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• A saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
• An aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,
• - the radical (-X-R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical, and with the proviso that the radical - (X-R4) at least 1 to 3 times is. Where X is preferably:
• 1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or
• 2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
• 3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are: -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and R ₄ preferably represents:
• 1) R 6 -O-CO-, wherein R 6 is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated, or
• 2) R 7 -CO-, in which R 7 is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which may furthermore be further bonded with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and A is preferably a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds can be selected from the halide ions such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO ₃ ^- , in which R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^{®, ®} and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® 180, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats.

Further preferred compounds of the formula (IV) belong to the formula (IV.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ^® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® 180, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131st

A second group of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (II) shown below shows the preferred structure of these compounds.

Suitable radicals R may each independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of formula (II) for R each contain the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A is an anion as previously described. Particularly preferred examples of the aforementioned imidazoline compounds are available under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Most preferred is quaternium-91. A third group of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts of the aforementioned formula (III). Examples of particularly suitable monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide and / or behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.

• 1) Wasserstoff oder
• 2) ein Alkylrest mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen, welcher gleich oder verschieden, gesättigt oder ungesättigt sein kann, und
• 3) eine verzweigte oder unverzweigte Hydroxyalkylgruppe mit ein bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen mit mindestens einer und höchstens drei Hydroxygruppen beispielsweise -CH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH₂CHOHCH₃, -CH(CH₂OH)₂, -COH(CH₂OH)₂, -CH₂CHOHCH₂OH, -CH₂CH₂CH₂OH und Hydroxybutylreste, bedeuten kann, und A ein Anion wie zuvor beschrieben und n eine ganze Zahl zwischen 1 und 10 bedeuten kann.

A fourth group of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are amines and / or cationized amines, in particular amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines of the following structural formulas: R ¹ -NH- (CH ₂ ) _n -N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (V) in which R1 may preferably denote an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

• 1) hydrogen or
• 2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and
• 3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to 4 carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₃ , -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and A may be an anion as described above and n may be an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to amidoamines and / or a quaternized amidoamine in which R 1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these are lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (V) is a radical according to the general formula CH ₂ CH ₂ OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms , Hydroxyethyl or hydrogen. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat3) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkylamidoamines can be present as such, as well as converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such commercial products are Witcamine ^® 100, Incromine ^® BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50, Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE.

The abovementioned cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any desired combinations with one another, with amounts preferably between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.01 and 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably of 0, 1 to 5.0 wt .-% are used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention. The quantities are based on the total weight of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.

Further preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic and amphoteric polymers.

The cationic and / or amphoteric polymers may be homopolymers or copolymers or polymers based on natural polymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more of the monomers. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary pyrrolidones, e.g. As alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or Alyklvinylpyrrolidon salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. For example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

From the large number of these polymers have proven to be particularly effective ingredients for hair treatment compositions according to the invention: Homopolymers of the general formula - {CH ₂ - [CR ¹ COO- (CH ₂ ) _m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^- , in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those for which at least one of the following conditions applies: R ¹ is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2. As physiologically acceptable counterions X ^- , for example Halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, Methosulfationen and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions into consideration. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or guar. Also suitable are chitosan and chitosan derivatives. Cationic polysaccharides usually have the general formula GOB-N + R _a R _b R _c A ^- , in which G denotes an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;
B represents a divalent linking group, for example, alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or hydroxyalkylene;
R _a , R _b and R _c independently of one another are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl, each having up to 18 carbon atoms, where the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , R _b and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20 is; and
A ^{- is} a common counter anion, preferably chloride.

Cationic, ie quaternized, celluloses are available on the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. For example, Polyquaternium-67 is commercially available under the designations SL ^® polymer or polymer ^® SK (Amerchol) is. Further suitable cationic celluloses are known under the names Polymer JR ^® 400 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-10) and polymer Quatrisoft ^® LM-200 (Amerchol, INCI name Polyquaternium-24). Other commercial products, the compounds Celquat ^® H 100 and Celquat ^® L are 200. Finally, located under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda with Trimonium and Cocodimonium hydroxyethylcellulose a further derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72 before. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.

Particularly preferred cationic celluloses are Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-67 and Polyquaternium-72.

Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also available from the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. Cognis under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules. This raw material is an already pre-dissolved cationic guar derivative.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is chitosoniumpyrrolidone is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside,
• – kationisierter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^® 100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^® 550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-6 und Polyquaternium-7,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550 und der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 sowie FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternisiertes Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, zum Beispiel Vinylpyrrolidon/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylatmethosulfat Copolymer, das unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Gafquat^® 755 N und Gafquat^® 734 von der Firma Gaf Co., USA vertrieben wird und die INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium- 18 Polyquaternium-24 und Polyquaternium-27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers having the INCI name Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 and FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and the INCI name Polyquaternium-11,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• And the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 Polyquaternium-24 and Polyquaternium-27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

The aforementioned cationic polymers can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably cationic polymer amounts between 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably between 0.01 to 7.5 wt .-% and completely more preferably between 0.1 to 5.0 wt .-% (wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent).

Nursing hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination a) and b), at least one quaternary ammonium compound selected from esterquats (c), quaternary imidazolines (d)) according to the aforementioned formula (II), monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts (e)) of the abovementioned Formula (III) and / or from aforementioned amines and / or cationized amines (f)).

The quaternary ammonium compounds (a) to f)) can be used individually or in any combination with one another in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably comprising quaternary ammonium compounds (a) to (f)) in amounts between 0.01 and 10% by weight. , preferably between 0.01 to 8 wt .-% and most preferably between 0.1 to 6.0 wt .-% (wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent).

Particularly preferred nourishing hair treatment compositions according to the invention comprise, in addition to the active substance combination a) and b) and in addition to the at least one quaternary ammonium compound (a) to f)), at least one or more of the abovementioned cationic polymers.

In a further preferred embodiment, the care effect of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be further increased by the additional use of at least one substance from the group of vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors and / or the protein hydrolysates.

Suitable protein hydrolysates are protein hydrolysates of animal, vegetable, marine or bacterial origin. The protein hydrolysates can be obtained either by acidic, basic, acid-enzymatic, basic-enzymatic or exclusively by enzymatic hydrolysis. Particular preference is given to protein hydrolyzates which have been obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis. Preferred protein hydrolysates no longer have any enzymatic activity. Further preferred protein hydrolysates have a molecular weight of between 500 Da and 5,000,000 Da, preferably 1,000 Da to 2,000,000 Da, more preferably 10,000 Da to 1,000,000 Da, more preferably 15,000 Da to 500,000 Da, and most preferably 15,000 Da to 100,000 Da ,

Examples of preferred protein hydrolysates are protein hydrolysates based on collagen, gelatin, albumin, egg protein, lupine protein, wheat protein, potato protein, rape protein, soy protein and milk proteins.

Particularly preferred protein hydrolysates are protein hydrolysates based on egg protein, collagen, gelatin, soy protein, albumin and milk. Particularly preferred are protein hydrolysates based on milk. A milk protein is also the casein. Most preferably, the milk protein hydrolysates are derived from milk proteins in which the casein has been previously separated by precipitation so that these milk proteins are free of casein except for minor impurities in the production of the hydrolysates. Common milk proteins often contain lactose. A suitable with particular preference milk protein hydrolyzate is present in the raw material Tego ^® Emulprot ^®.

The protein hydrolysates may preferably be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight %, and most preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 wt .-%, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the respective hair treatment agent.

Suitable vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferably understood as meaning vitamins which are assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Haarbehandlungsmitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten sein kann
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton in den erfindungsgemäßen Haarbehandlungsmitteln eingesetzt. Einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie kationische Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferably, the nicotinic acid is that in the inventive Hair treatment agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total agent may be included
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Within the scope of this group, the panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention. Useful derivatives of panthenol are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, as well as cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

Particularly preferred are the vitamins of the B-series and the B5-series from the vitamins of the B-series.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile become established. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.

B3, B6 and biotin vitamins are most preferred.

In a further embodiment it is preferred if the hair treatment compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one further conditioning agent. The other nourishing active ingredient (s) may preferably be selected from natural, synthetic and / or mineral oil, fat and / or wax components. Suitable oil, fat and / or wax components may in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.05 to 3 wt. % (based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent).

As natural (vegetable) oils usually triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are used. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grapeseed oil, Amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.

As mineral oils are used in particular mineral oils, paraffin and Isoparaffinöle and synthetic hydrocarbons. An example of a usable hydrocarbon is for example that available as a commercial product 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S).

As synthetic oils it is possible to use dialkyl ethers, for example di-n-octyl ethers, fatty acids, fatty alcohols and natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form in aqueous dispersion.

Examples of suitable fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and the like technical mixtures.

Preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

Suitable fatty alcohols are, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and the like Guerbet.

As natural or synthetic waxes there may be used solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP.

As synthetic oils further silicone compounds come into consideration.

Silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In particular, they cause better combability of the hair in the wet and dry state and in many cases have a positive effect on the hair and the softness of the hair.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen, Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch, vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter:
• a) substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen;
• b) (per)fluorierten Gruppen;
• c) Thiolgruppen;
• d) Carboxylatgruppen;
• e) hydroxylierten Gruppen;
• f) alkoxylierten Gruppen;
• g) Acyloxyalkylgruppen;
• h) amphoteren Gruppen;
• i) Bisulfitgruppen;
• j) Hydroxyacylaminogruppen;
• k) Carboxygruppen;
• l) Sulfonsäuregruppen; und
• m) Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit nicht siliconhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silicon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Siliconpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht siliconhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silicon enthält;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

It is therefore desirable to use silicones in the cosmetic hair treatment compositions. Suitable silicones may be selected from:

• (i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:
• a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;
• b) (per) fluorinated groups;
• c) thiol groups;
• d) carboxylate groups;
• e) hydroxylated groups;
• f) alkoxylated groups;
• g) acyloxyalkyl groups;
• h) amphoteric groups;
• i) bisulfite groups;
• j) hydroxyacylamino groups;
• k) carboxy groups;
• l) sulfonic acid groups; and
• m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone grafted with at least one polysiloxane macromer in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind beispielsweise Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkohol-caprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen,
• – Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – ethoxylierte oder nicht ethoxylierte Mono,- Di- und Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin, wie beispielsweise Monomuls^® 90-O18, Monomuls^® 90-L12, Cetiol^® HE oder Cutina^® MD.

Other suitable fatty substances are, for example

• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. For example isopropyl myristate are preferred (Rilanit ^® IPM), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols,
• - glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® CC)
• - ethoxylated or non ethoxylated mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as ^® Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls 90-L12 ^®, Cetiol ^® HE or Cutina ^® MD.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are present as hair shampoo, hair conditioner or hair conditioner.

• – 0,01 bis 30 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt 0,1 bis 25 Gew.-% besonders bevorzugt 1 bis 20 Gew.-% und insbesondere 2 bis 15 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen und/oder eines amphoteren Tensids, und/oder
• – 0,1 bis 10,0 Gew.-%, mehr bevorzugt 0,2 bis 8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,3 bis 6 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,5 bis 4 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esterquats und/oder mindestens einer Verbindung der zuvor beschriebenen Formel (II),

wobei sich die Mengenangaben auf das Gesamtgewicht der Haarbehandlungsmittel beziehen.Within these particularly preferred embodiments, hair treatment agents according to the invention preferably contain, in addition to the active ingredients a) and b)

• From 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 20% by weight and in particular from 2 to 15% by weight of at least one anionic and / or an amphoteric surfactant, and or
• - 0.1 to 10.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.2 to 8 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 4 wt .-% of at least one esterquat and / or at least one compound of the formula (II) described above,

wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the hair treatment agent.

Hair treatment compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as a shampoo, preferably contain at least one anionic and at least one amphoteric surfactant. For the preparation of particularly mild shampoos, the surfactant mixture may preferably also contain a nonionic surfactant.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-(OCH₂-CH₂)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist, sowie deren Salze,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen.
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-(OCH₂-CH₂)_x-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel, R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_n-O-(PO-OX)-OR², in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren, R¹-CO-NR²-CH₂CH₂-O-(CH₂CH₂O)_nCH₂COOM, mit R¹ als geradkettigen oder verzweigten Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit einer Zahl an Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kette von 2 bis 30, n steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20 und R² steht für Wasserstoff, einen Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, t-Butyl- oder iso-Butylrest und M steht für Wasserstoff oder ein Metall wie Alkalimetall, insbesondere Natrium, Kalium, Lithium, Erdalkalimetall, insbesondere Magnesium, Calcium, Zink, oder ein Ammoniumion, wie ⁺NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest. Derartige Produkte sind beispielsweise von der Firma Chem-Y unter der Produktbezeichnung Akypo^® erhältlich.
• – Acylglutamate der Formel XOOC-CH₂CH₂CH(C(NH)OR)-COOX, in der RCO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen und 0 und/oder 1, 2 oder 3 Doppelbindungen und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- und/oder Erdalkalimetall, Ammonium, Alkylammonium, Alkanolammonium oder Glucammonium steht,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysats mit einer C8-C30-Fettsäure. Solche Produkte sind unter dem Warenzeichen Lamepon^®, Maypon^®, Gluadin^®, Hostapon^® KCG oder Amisoft^® seit langem im Handel erhältlich.
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyl-Oligoglykosidcarboxylate, -sulfate, -phosphate und/oder -isethionate,
• – Acyllactylate und
• – Hydroxymischethersulfate.

Suitable anionic surfactants are, for example:

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula R- (OCH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, and salts thereof,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (OCH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n -O- (PO-OX) -OR ² , in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• - Amidethercarbonsäuren, R ¹ -CO-NR ² -CH ₂ CH ₂ -O- (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n CH ₂ COOM, with R ¹ as a straight-chain or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having a number of carbon atoms in the chain of 2 to 30, n is an integer from 1 to 20, and R ² is hydrogen, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, t-butyl or iso-butyl, and M is for hydrogen or a metal such as alkali metal, in particular sodium, potassium, lithium, alkaline earth metal, in particular magnesium, calcium, zinc, or a Ammonium ion, such as ⁺ NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , with R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical. Such products are obtainable, for example, by the company Chem Y under the product name Akypo ^®.
• - Acylglutamate of the formula XOOC-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH (C (NH) OR) COOX, in the RCO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0 and / or 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen , an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium,
• - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate with a C8-C30 fatty acid. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycoside carboxylates, sulfates, phosphates and / or isethionates,
• Acyl lactylates and
• - Hydroxymix ether sulfates.

Particularly preferred anionic surfactants which can be used in the hair treatment compositions (shampoos) according to the invention are alkyl (ether) sulfates described above.

The anionic surfactant (s) may preferably be used in the hair treatment compositions (shampoos) according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 15 wt .-% are used.

Suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3- carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (Tampho) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.

Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidoalkylbetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Particularly preferred are the surfactants known under the INCI names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate and Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

The ampholytic and / or zwitterionic surfactant (s) may preferably be used in the hair treatment agents (shampoos) according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably of 0.1 to 10 and in particular from 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-% are used.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettalkoholpolyglykolether bzw. die Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettalkoholpolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettsäurepolyglykolether bzw. die Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettsäurepolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, die Alkylphenolpolyglykolether bzw. die Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, bzw. gemischte Alyklphenolpolyether,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol^®-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide,
• – Fettsäureamidpolyglycolether, Fettaminpolyglycolether,
• – Mischether bzw. Mischformale und Polysorbate.

Suitable nonionic surfactants are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol ^® grades (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• - amine oxides,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• - sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type,
• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type,
• Fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers,
• - Mischether or mixed formals and polysorbates.

The nonionic surfactant (s) may preferably be used in the hair treatment preparations (shampoos) according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10 and in particular from 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are used.

Other ingredients of the hair treatment composition according to claim 1 may be any other usual ingredients in cosmetic products. The skilled person will select these depending on the purpose of the agent targeted. For example, hair dye compositions will additionally contain at least one dye.

In the following, some very particularly preferred further ingredients are described by way of example. In order to take into account the biomimetic character of the compositions, further preferred ingredients are those which are as close to natural or identical to nature as possible, or are based on a natural raw material base.

The first preferred group of other ingredients are plant extracts. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime are particularly preferred , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (European millet, crabgrass, millet as examples), sugar cane, ryegrass, meadow fox tail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, silt grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Marram grass, perennial grass, honey grasses, grasses, bluegrass, couch grass and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea ( L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of wine and Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis. The plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. Based on the content of the respective plant extract, plant extracts are used in amounts such that in the compositions according to the invention active ingredient contents of the respective extract are present in an amount of 0.001 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.0% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-%.

A second preferred group of further ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betainees mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetylcarnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in the literature Betain designated compound N, N, N-trimethylglycine.

Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used. Particularly preferred is L-carnitine tartrate.

The aforementioned betaines in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in amounts of 0.00001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0 wt .-% and in particular from 0.001 to 3 % By weight used.

A third preferred further ingredient is taurine and / or a derivative of taurine. Taurine is exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative is understood to mean the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, N, N-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyltaurine and ornithyl taurine. Other suitable taurine derivatives are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.

Compositions according to the invention preferably contain from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.001 to 2.0% by weight, and in particular from 0.001 to 1, by weight 1.0% by weight of taurine and / or a previously mentioned taurine derivative.

A fourth preferred group of other ingredients in the compositions of the invention are biochinones. Suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). Preferred ubiquinones have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is particularly preferred.

The compositions according to the invention may contain, based on their total weight, preferably 0.0001 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.001 to 1% by weight of the abovementioned biochinones.

A fifth preferred group of further ingredients in the inventive compositions purine and / or purine derivatives.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0, 1 wt .-% purine and / or purine derivatives.

Purine, purines and purine derivatives are to be understood as meaning purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline.

Particularly preferred are caffeine, theobromine and / or theophylline.

• – UV-Lichtschutzfilter mit einer Wirkung im Bereich des UV-A, UV-B und UV-C Lichtes sowohl als wasserlösliche als auch öllösliche Filter,
• – weitere kationische, amphotere, anionische oder nichtionische Polymere auf synthetischer Basis,
• – Silikone wie beispielsweise Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Dimethiconole, Dimethiconcopolyole,
• – Farbstoffvorprodukte vom Kuppler- und Entwicklertyp,
• – Direktziehende Farbstoffe,
• – Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – Quellmittel wie Harnstoff, Allantoin, Carbonate oder Hydantoin,
• – Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Stabilisierungsmittel für Wasserstoffperoxid und andere Oxidationsmittel,
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft,
• – Antioxidantien,
• – Parfümöle, Duftstoffe und Riechstoffe.

Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention may contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example

• UV protection filters having an effect in the range of UV-A, UV-B and UV-C light both as water-soluble and oil-soluble filters,
• Other cationic, amphoteric, anionic or nonionic synthetic-based polymers,
• Silicones such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, dimethiconols, dimethicone copolyols,
• Dye and coupler-type dye precursors,
• - direct dyes,
• - structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin,
• Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Dyes for staining the agent,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• Stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidizing agents,
• Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air,
• - antioxidants,
• - Perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention have outstanding properties: they comprise an active ingredient combination of specific carboxylic acids and biomimetic amides, which can be stabilized excellently in customary cosmetic, mostly aqueous carriers. The active ingredient combination is deposited on the hair during the application of the hair treatment agent and leads with regular use of the hair treatment agent to a visible improvement in the hair condition of damaged hair: dull, brittle hair again supple, shiny and soft.

Examples:

1) Demonstration of the effect of the restructuring action of the hair treatment compositions according to the invention by means of DSC measurement

• i) 0,2 Gew.-% Milchsäure in Wasser,
• ii) 0,1 Gew.-% Milchsäure und 0,1 Gew.-% Rep'Hair^® in Wasser,
• iii) 0,2 Gew.-% Rep'Hair^® in Wasser.

The following three solutions were prepared:

• i) 0.2% by weight of lactic acid in water,
• ii) 0.1 wt .-% lactic acid and 0.1 wt .-% Rep'Hair ^® in water,
• iii) 0.2 wt .-% Rep'Hair ^® in water.

Hair strands (Alkyn 6610, A11) were previously prewashed by prewashing with a 3% sodium lauryl sulfate solution, corrugating, and then washed again with a 3% sodium lauryl sulfate solution.

Subsequently, two untreated strands of hair, two permanently waved strands of hair and two strands of hair, each for 15 minutes in the o. G. Dipped solutions i) to iii) and then rinsed with warm water for 30 seconds, subjected to DCS measurements.

The denaturation temperature was determined in each case: Untreated hair strands Long wavy strands of hair Long wavy strands of hair after treatment with solution i) Long wavy strands of hair after treatment with solution ii) Long wavy strands of hair after treatment with solution iii) Denaturation temperature [° C] 151.8 150.3 150.2 151.8 150.7

The DSC measurements show that damaged hair strands which have been treated with a hair treatment agent according to the invention (solution ii)) again have the state of untreated hair after the treatment.

2) Example recipes

The following table contains examples of hair treatment compositions according to the invention in the form of shampoos (Examples 1 and 2), hair rinses (Examples 3 and 4) and hair conditioners (Examples 4 and 5).

The quantities in the table relate to wt .-%. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2EO (AS) 9 8.5 Cocamidopropylbetaine (40%) 10 8th Plantacare ^818®1 4 Polymer JR 400 ^®2 0.5 Polyquaternium-7 0.2 panthenol 0.2 0.2 lactic acid 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.5 0.3 sodium lactate 0.1 Rep'Hair ^®3 0.6 1.4 0.5 0.5 1.0 1.0 Dow Corning ^193®4 0.2 Apricot kernel oil 0.05 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.5 0.75 Stenol 1618 ^®5 3.0 3.0 6.0 6.0 Genamine ^KMPD®6 2.0 2.0 Cetiol ^CC®7 1.0 1.0 1.0 Rheocare ^Ultragel®7 2.0 3.0 Dehyquart ^L80®9 0.5 Dow Corning 200, 60,000 cSt. ^®10 0.3 0.3 Crodazosoft ^DBQ®11 4.5 1.5 Quartamine ^BTC®12 1.5 taurine 1.0 isopropyl 0.4 0.4 Ethanol 96%, denat. 20.0 Acid, preservative, thickener, perfume qs qs qs qs qs qs water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

• 1 INCI-Bezeichnung: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua; AS etwa 51–53%; BASF
• 2 INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-10; Dow
• 3 CTFA-Bezeichnung: Behenyl/Stearyl aminopropandiol esters; Solabia,
• 4 INCI-Bezeichnung: PEG-12 Dimethicone; Dow Corning
• 5 INCI-Bezeichnung: Cetearyl Alcohol; BASF
• 6 INCI-Bezeichnung: Behentrimonium Chloride; Clariant
• 7 INCI-Bezeichnung: Dicaprylyl Carbonate; BASF
• 8 INCI-Bezeichnung: Polyquaternium-37; BASF
• 9 INCI-Bezeichnung: Dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate; BASF
• 10 INCI-Bezeichnung: Dimethicone; Dow Corning
• 11 INCI-Bezeichnung: Quaternium-91, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alkohol; Croda
• 12 INCI-Bezeichnung: Behenoyl PG-Trimonium chloride; Kao

In Examples 1-6, the following commercial products were used:

• 1 INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Aqua; AS about 51-53%; BASF
• 2 INCI name: Polyquaternium-10; Dow
• 3 CTFA name: behenyl / stearyl aminopropanediol esters; Solabia,
• 4 INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone; Dow Corning
• 5 INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol; BASF
• 6 INCI name: Behentrimonium Chloride; Clariant
• 7 INCI name: dicaprylyl carbonates; BASF
• 8 INCI name: Polyquaternium-37; BASF
• 9 INCI name: dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfates; BASF
• 10 INCI name: Dimethicone; Dow Corning
• 11 INCI name: Quaternium-91, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cetearyl Alcohol; Croda
• 12 INCI name: Behenoyl PG-Trimonium chloride; Kao

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

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Cited patent literature

• EP 983041 [0006]
• EP 1733717 [0006]

Claims (10)

Hair treatment composition containing in a cosmetic carrier a) at least one compound of the following formula (I)

in the i. R1 and R8 independently of one another represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 7 to 29 carbon atoms, and ii. the radicals R _{2 to} R 7 independently of one another represent hydrogen, a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, with the proviso that at least one and at most three radicals R _{2 to} R 7 represent a hydroxyl group, and b) at least a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain or branched monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid and / or alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid, each having 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one compound of formula (I), in the One of the radicals R 4 / R 5 is a hydroxyl group, - The radicals R2 / R3 and R6 / R7 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl or an ethyl group, and - The radicals R1 and R8 independently of one another represent a saturated alkyl radical having 11 to 27, preferably having 13 to 25 and in particular having 15 to 23 carbon atoms. Hair treatment composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it contains at least one compound of formula (I) in which One of the radicals R4 / R5 is a hydroxyl group and the other is a hydrogen atom, The radicals R 2 / R 3 and R 6 / R 7 each represent a hydrogen atom, The radical R 1 is a saturated alkyl radical having from 11 to 23, preferably from 13 to 21, more preferably from 15 to 19 and in particular 17 carbon atoms, and - The radical R8 is a saturated alkyl radical having 15 to 27, preferably 17 to 25, more preferably 19 to 23 and in particular 21 carbon atoms. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least one dicarboxylic acid selected from malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, phthalic acid and / or glutamic acid and / or at least one alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid selected from glycolic acid, Lactic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid and / or tartaric acid. Hair treatment composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it contains at least one alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid selected from lactic acid, malic acid and / or tartaric acid, in particular selected from lactic acid. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it - in each case based on its total weight - - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.075 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 5 wt.% And in particular 0.1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one compound of formula (I ) and From 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 4% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight of at least one monocarboxylic acid, dicarboxylic acid and / or Contains alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acid. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - additionally 0.1 to 10 wt .-% of at least one quaternary ammonium compound which is selected from the group - the esterquats and / or - the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (II),

in which the radicals R are each independently of the other a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or the monoalkyltrimethylammonium salts having a chain length of the alkyl radical of 16 to 24 Carbon atoms, corresponding to the formula (III),

wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and / or - the amines and / or the cationized amines and / or - the poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium) and / or - the quaternized Cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium-10 and / or Polyquaternium-67, and / or - the cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or - cationized honey and / or - the cationic guar derivatives and / or - chitosan and / or - the polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or - the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or - vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or - Polyquaternium 2 and / or Polyquaternium-7 and / or Pol yquaternium-16 and / or - polyquaternium 17 and / or - polyquaternium 18 and / or - polyquaternium 24 and / or - polyquaternium 27. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one substance from the group of vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors and / or at least one substance from the group of protein hydrolysates. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - additionally 0.005 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.05 to 3 wt .-% contains at least one oil, wax and / or fat component. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it - based on its total weight - additionally - 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably 1 to 20 wt. % and in particular 2 to 15 wt .-% of at least one anionic and / or an amphoteric surfactant, and / or From 0.1 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3 to 6% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 4% by weight, of at least one esterquat, at least one compound of the formula (II) described above and / or at least one compound of the formula (III) described above.