WO2015090805A1

WO2015090805A1 - Cosmetic agent for improving the sensory properties of keratin fibers

Info

Publication number: WO2015090805A1
Application number: PCT/EP2014/074924
Authority: WO
Inventors: Thomas Schröder; Manuela METTE
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2013-12-18
Filing date: 2014-11-18
Publication date: 2015-06-25
Also published as: DE102013226539A1

Abstract

The invention relates to compositions for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which significantly improve conditioning properties as well as the shine and haptics of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, compared with prior art compositions. As essential ingredients, the compositions of the invention contain at least one cationic ammonium compound, at least one amidoamine, at least one ester oil, at least one cationic polymer, and at least one selected silicone block copolymer.

Description

"Cosmetic agent for improving the sensory properties of keratin fibers"

The present invention describes compositions for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which significantly improve the conditioning properties and the gloss and feel of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, over prior art compositions. The compositions according to the invention contain as essential ingredients at least one cationic ammonium compound, at least one amidoamine, at least one ester oil, at least one cationic polymer and at least one selected silicone block copolymer.

The cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, especially human hair, is an important part of human body care. For example, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations.

There is still a need for active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. Furthermore, the compatibility of the cosmetic compositions is an extremely important criterion. Compositions for use on keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, not only have to have good cleansing and conditioning and care properties, but should continue to be well tolerated and even with frequent use do not lead to excessive defatting or dryness and split ends. The feeling of the keratin fibers after cosmetic treatments is an essential criterion, whether the corresponding composition is perceived by the consumer as pleasant. The sensor technology and in particular the feel of a composition are thus essential effects that the consumer can experience. Therefore, precisely those compositions are sought which not only care for the keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, but moreover perceptibly and tangibly change their sensory and in particular haptic properties of the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair. In addition, the compositions should regenerate and balance the structure, in particular inside the keratinic fibers, in particular the human hair. At the same time, the compositions should be easy and inexpensive to produce.

However, it has now surprisingly been found that a cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetic carrier

a) in a total amount of from 0.1 to 6.0% by weight of at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkatl)

R1

U

R4-N-R2

(Tkatl), wherein R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups with the proviso that at least one of R1, R2, R3 or R4 is other than hydrogen, and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide, and methosulfates

in a total amount of 0.01 to 6.0 wt .-% of at least one amidoamine and / or at least one permanent cationic amidoamine, further

in a total amount of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of at least one ester oil, further

in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0% by weight of at least one cationic polymer, preferably selected from Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquaternium-72 and / or Polyquaternium-74 and / or Polyquaternium-37, and

in a total amount of from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight of at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II)

in which

X is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 carbon atoms,

Y is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 carbon atoms,

R 1 represents a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,

R 3 is -H, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl,

p is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably 10, 1, 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18

m and n are integers between 2 and 200,

all quantities being based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,

ideally fulfilled.

When using this combination of active ingredients, surprisingly good properties of the treated hair, in particular improved combing, improved gloss and to an improved elasticity as well as to a significantly increased wash resistance of dyed hair, as well as to a longer shelf life with a simultaneous better forming performance in well processes, such as water wave and perm, or smoothing agents for frizzy hair.

Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair packs, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos or combinations thereof. In particular, the hair conditioning compositions such as hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair oils and lotions both as leave-on, so as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so few seconds to a few hours after the Application again rinsed products, understood by the hair treatment compositions according to the invention.

By combability is meant according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber and the combability of the dry fiber.

The grip defines the tactility of a fiber collective, whereby the person skilled in the art senses and evaluates the parameters "fullness" and "suppleness" of the fiber collective.

Shaping is understood to mean the ability to give a shape change to a group of previously treated keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair. Hair cosmetics also speak of hair styling.

Restructuring in the context of the invention is to be understood as a reduction of the damage of keratinic fibers which has arisen due to a great variety of influences. Here, for example, the restoration of natural strength plays an essential role. Restructured fibers are characterized by improved gloss, improved grip and ease of combing. In addition, they have improved strength and elasticity. Furthermore, a successful restructuring can be physically detected as a melting point increase compared to the damaged fiber. The higher the melting point of the hair, the firmer the structure of the fiber.

For the purposes of the invention, "wash fastness" is to be understood as meaning the preservation of the original color with regard to nuance and / or intensity when the keratinic fiber is exposed to the repeated influence of aqueous agents, in particular surfactant-containing agents such as shampoos. Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention comprising the combination of active substances according to the invention are distinguished by a markedly improved state of the keratinic fibers with respect to the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers. Furthermore, the combination of active substances according to the invention leads to a clear protection of the keratinic fibers from the effects of heat, for example during blow-drying of keratinic fibers. The protection of the surface of keratinic fibers from the effects of heat is of great importance, in particular when using straighteners or hair dryers. Finally, it has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention lead to a significantly delayed re-soiling of the keratinic fibers. An aqueous cosmetic carrier contains at least 30% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 50% by weight, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention, of at least one C 2 -C 6 -alcohol, in particular ethanol or propanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, butanol, isobutanol, tert-butanol, n-pentanol, iso-pentanols, n-hexanol, iso-hexanols, ethylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 2-methyl -2,4-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol or 1, 6-hexanediol to understand. The compositions of the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol or ethyl diglycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkatl) are the first group of compulsory ingredients of the compositions according to the invention.

(Tkatl)

In the formula (Tkatl), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R1, R2, R3 or R4 is different from hydrogen. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, such as halides such as chloride or bromide, and methosulfate.

Examples of the particularly preferred compounds of formula (Tkatl) are selected from lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, tri- cetylmethylammoniumchlorid, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammoniumchlo- chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, Behenyltrimethyl- ammonium bromide, behenyl trimethyl ammonium methosulfate, Dimethyldibehenylammoniumchlorid, Tribehenylmethyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, dicocodimonium chloride, tricocomonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Highly preferred are behentrimonium chloride and / or cetyltrimonium chloride and mixtures thereof.

The at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkat1) is present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.1 to 6.0% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 4.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0, From 2 to 3.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.3 to 2.5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition.

The second group of essential ingredients of the present invention are amido-amines and / or permanently cationized amidoamines, preferably having the following structural formulas (Tkat3) R1 - NH - (CH ₂₎ n - N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3) wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical which has in each case 6 to 30 C atoms and which may each be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and where the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

1) hydrogen or

2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

A is a physiologically acceptable anion and

n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Suitable physiologically acceptable counterion A are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to methosulfates and halide ions, in particular chloride.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amidoamine and / or the quaternized amidoamine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in the formula (Tkat3) are a radical according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, wherein R5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat3) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkylamidoamines can be present as such or be converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic acylamidoamines are preferred.

Preferred amidoamines of the invention are Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 801), Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Adogen ^® S18V or Tego ^® S 18 or amide Incromine ^® SB), Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. SCHERCODINE M () Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine z. B. LEXAMINE 22) Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine phosphates, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ^® 101) Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ^® 201) Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 401), Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine ^® 501), behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine (z. B. Mackine 601, Incromine ^® BD), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates (z. B. Mackalene 1 ^® 17), Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (e.g. . B. Mackalene 1 ^® 16), Ricinoleamidopropyl dimethyl Lactate amine (z. B. Mackalene 216), Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (Mackalene 316), behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene ^® 616) Sunflowerseedamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate (z. B. Mackalene 1216), Dimethylamine Palmamidopropyl, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine propionates, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Glycolate, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactate, and examples of permanent cationic amidoamines include Quaternium-33 (. eg Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50), behenamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (eg Schercoquat ^® BAS. ), behenamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat AMG-BEO ^®), Oleamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride (z. B. Lexquat AMG-O ^®), Cocamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ^® CAS), Cocamidopropyltrimoniumchloride (z. B. Empigen ^® CSC), Ricinoleamidopro- pylethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Rinoleamidopropyltrimoniumchloride, Ricinoleamidopropyltr ammonium methosulfates (eg. (B. Rewoquat ^® RTM 50) Stearamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate z. B. Schercoquat ^® SAS), Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate (z. B. Catagene ^® SA-70) or Undecyleneamidopropyltrimonium Methosulfate (z. B. Rewoquat ^® UTM 50) Lauramidopropyl PG- Dimonium Chloride, Canolamidopropyl ETHYLDIMONIUM Ethosulfate (z. B. Schercoquat ^® COAS). Preferred amidoamines are Lauramidopropyl Dimethylamine, Myristamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Ricinolamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Quaternium-33, Behenamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Oleamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate, Cocamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Rinoleamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearamidopropyl Trimonium Methosulfate, and the like Mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred are amidoamines stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, cocamidopropyl dimethylamines, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamines, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamines, oleamidopropyl dimethylamines, behenamidopropyl dimethylamines, palmamidopropyl dimethylamines, quaternium-33 and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates. Highly preferred are stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, cocamidopropyl dimethylamines, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamines, behenamidopropyl dimethylamines and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates. Most preferred is stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

The aforementioned amidoamines can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein they are in a total amount of 0.01 to 6.0 wt .-%, preferably in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-% and completely particularly preferably in a total amount of 0, 1 to 2.5 wt .-%, are contained, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention. The very best results are obtained with a total amount of 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-%, based on the weight of the composition according to the invention. The third group of the inventively mandatory ingredients are ester oils. Ester oils are the esters of polybasic or polybasic C6-C30 fatty acids with monohydric or polyhydric C2-C30 fatty alcohols. Preference is given to the monoesters of fatty acids with monohydric alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, isononanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, Isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic and erucic acids and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, nonyl alcohol, isononyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, Linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate, C16-18 -alkyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tri-caprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, and hexyl laurate , Di-n-butyl adipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate and oleic acid dicylate, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, the ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. The alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils. However, preference is given according to the invention if the fatty alcohol was first alkoxylated and then esterified with fatty acid. In the formula (D4-II), these compounds are generally shown.

R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,

AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide,

X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,

R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, , Behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol moieties R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol , Arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. A particularly preferred ester oil according to the invention is obtainable, for example, under the INCI name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate.

Furthermore, ester oils are to be understood as meaning:

Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate) , Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, as well as

symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (z. B. Cetiol ^® CC),

Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petro-, linoleic Arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preference is given to using oleic acid monoglycerides.

natural oils. Examples of such oils are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, grapefruit seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil , Corn oil, almond oil, marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, wheat germ oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

Of course, it is also possible according to the invention to use several ester oils at the same time. Preferred ester oils are isopropyl myristate, glycerin carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristates, cetyl oleate and oleyl erucate and mixtures of at least two of these ester oils. Most preferred are mixtures of ester oils when one of the ester oils is dicaprylyl carbonate or isopropyl myristate. Most preferred are mixtures of and with these two ester oils. Most preferred is when a mixture of ester oils with the latter two oils is used when the isopropyl myristate and the caprylyicarbonate are in a ratio of 10: 1 to 1: 1, preferably 5: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably 5 : 1 to 3: 1 with respect to the respective amounts of the ester oils.

The at least one ester oil is present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5.0% by weight. %, most preferably from 0.2 to 5.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition of the invention. As the fourth compulsory component, the compositions of the invention contain at least one cationic polymer in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. Preferred cationic polymers are selected from the following cationic polymers:

Suitable cationic polymers derived from natural polymers are cationic ones

Derivatives of polysaccharides, for example, cationic derivatives of cellulose, starch or

Guar. Cationic polysaccharides have the general formula G-O-B-N + R _a RbRc A ^~

G is an anhydroglucose residue, for example starch or cellulose anhydroglucose;

B is a divalent linking group, for example alkylene, oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene or

hydroxyalkylene;

R _a , Rb and R _c are independently alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl or alkoxyaryl each having up to 18 carbon atoms, wherein the total number of carbon atoms in R _a , Rb and R _{c is} preferably not more than 20;

A ^" is a common counteranion and is preferably chloride.

Among the polymers derived from the natural cationic polymers, the cationic celluloses are preferred. Cationic celluloses are available in the market with varying degrees of substitution, cationic charge density, nitrogen content and molecular weights. In particular, the following cationic celluloses are highly preferred according to the invention. Polyquaternium-67 (Amerchol) is available commercially for example under the names Polymer ^® SL or polymer ^® SK. Under the trade designation Mirustyle CP ^® of the company. Croda another most preferred cellulose is available. This is a trimonium and cocodonium hydroxyethyl cellulose as derivatized cellulose with the INCI name Polyquaternium-72. Polyquaternium-72 can be used pre-dissolved both in solid form and already in aqueous solution.

Suitable cationic polymers derived from synthetic polymers are, for example, copolymers

A1) from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 10 to 50% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of monomers of the formula (Ia)

in the

X is chloride, sulphate, methosulphate,

A2) monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and the alkali metal and ammonium salts of these acids,

wherein the monomer A2 represents 50 to 99.9%, preferably 50 to 90% (based on the total number of monomers in the copolymer) of the copolymer; contain.

Regardless of which of the preferred copolymers A of the formulas (Ia) are used, preference is given to hair treatment compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that the ratio of (Y: z) 4: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 4: 1 to 1: 1 amounts to.

Irrespective of which copolymers A are used in the compositions according to the invention, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer A has a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20 million gmol ^-1 , preferably 100,000 to 10 million gmol ^-1 , more preferably 500,000 to 5 Million gmo and more particularly from 1, 1 million to 2.2 million gmol ^-1 .

A most preferred polymer constructed as previously shown is commercially available under the name Polyquaternium-74.

Another highly preferred cationic synthetic polymer is a desirably crosslinked homopolymer, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (3V Sigma) in trade.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a non-aqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are available under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 and Salcare ^® SC 96 in the trade.

Hair treatment agents according to the invention contain Polyquaternium-37 by weight in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.0025 to 2.5 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.005 to 1 wt.%, More preferably 0, 0075 to 0.75 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%.

The further obligatory component comprises the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, of at least one silicone block copolymer comprising structural units of the formulas (I) and (II)

in which

Y is a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 carbon atoms, R 1 represents a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,

p is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably 10, 1, 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18

m and n stand for integers between 2 and 200.

In the formula for the structural unit (I), X and Y independently of one another represent a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene radical having 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8 C atoms. Preferred radicals X and Y are unsubstituted, i. they are preferably pure hydrocarbon radicals. Among these, the linear hydrocarbon radicals are preferred, i. H. preferred radicals X and Y are independently selected from --CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 2, - (CH 2) 3, - (CH 2) 4, - (CH 2) 5, - (CH 2) 6, - (CH2) 7- or - (CH2) 8-. X is particularly preferably one of the groupings -CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 2 - or - (CH 2) 3 - and Y is one of the groupings -CH 2 -, - (CH 2) 2 or - (CH 2) 3 -, that preferred compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone block copolymer having structural units of the formula (1-1) to (I-9)

in which

R 1 represents a substituted or unsubstituted methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical,

m stands for an integer between 2 and 200.

Very particularly preferably, X = - (CH 2) 2 - and Y = -CH 2 -, so that preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone block copolymer containing structural units of the formula (I-4).

The radical R 1 is a substituted or unsubstituted methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl radical. R 1 is preferably selected from -CH 3, -CH 2 CH 3, CH 2 CH (CH 3) 2 and -CH 2 OH such that preferred compositions of the invention comprise at least one silicone block copolymer having structural units of the formulas (1-10) to (I-45)

(1-12)

where m is an integer between 2 and 200.

Very particular preference is given to R1 = -CH (CH3) 2, so that preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone block copolymer which contains structural units of the formula (Ia)

contains, where m stands for an integer between 2 and 200.

The slicon block copolymers e) contained in the agents according to the invention additionally contain structural units of the formula (II)

in which p stands for an integer from 1 to 30, preferably for 10, 1, 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18, and n stands for integers between 2 and 200.

R 3 preferably represents a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or isobutyl radical, very particularly preferably R 3 = -CH 2 CH (CH 3) 2, so that preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one silicone block copolymer, the structural units of the formula (IIa)

contains, in which n is an integer between 2 and 200 and p is the number 10, 1 1, 12, 13, 14, 15 or 16, preferably 14.

The block copolymers e) present in the agents according to the invention may contain, in addition to blocks of structural units of the formulas (I) and (II), further structural blocks. Preference is given to further blocks of polydimethylsiloxane which can terminate or separate the blocks from structural units of the formulas (I) and (II).

The copolymer (s) e) are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, most preferably 1 to 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. It has been found that an addition of butyloctanol can stabilize the copolymer (e) e) in the composition according to the invention, so that the care effects are further enhanced. Compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.00001 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 3.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight preferably 0.01 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.5 wt .-% of 2-butyloctan-1-ol (INCI name: Butyloctanol) included.

The copolymer (s) e) is (are) referred to as Bis-Diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer according to the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI). According to the invention, extremely preferred cosmetic compositions for conditioning keratinic fibers are characterized in that they

a) 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-% behentrimonium chloride and / or cetrimonium chloride,

b) 0.2-1.5% by weight of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,

c) from 0.2 to 5% by weight of at least one ester oil selected from isopropyl myristate, glycerine carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, cetyl oleate and oleyl erucate and mixtures of at least two of these ester oils, d) 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% Polyquaternium-37 and

e) 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 1, 5 wt .-%, bis-diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer,

in a cosmetic carrier, all quantities being by weight of the cosmetic composition.

Further according to the invention extraordinarily preferred cosmetic compositions for the conditioning of keratinic fibers are characterized in that they

a) 0.3 to 2.5% by weight of captivonium chloride,

b) 0.2-1.5% by weight of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,

c) 0.2 to 5% by weight of isopropyl myristate,

d) 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% Polyquaternium-37 and

Optionally, preferred compositions of the invention may further contain at least one sugar surfactant. Most preferred as nonionic surfactants are those based on sugar. On the one hand, this is preferably an alkyl or alkenyl oligoglycoside. These nonionic emulsifiers are known nonionic surfactants according to formula (I),

in which R is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), d. H. The distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the single molecule must always be integer and can take here especially the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a particular alkyloligoglycoside is a analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. Preferred are those alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglykoside whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1, 7 and in particular between 1, 2 and 1, 4. The alkyl or Alkenyl radical R can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, undecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, iso-stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, natural fatty alcohols such as coconut alcohol and technical mixtures , . Examples of commercially available products that Oramix® are - grades from Seppic, for example Oramix® NS 10 Plantacare® ^® - types, such as Plantacare® ^® 2000UP, Plantacare® ^® 1200UP, Plantacare® ^® 810UP, Plantacare® ^® 818UP.

Furthermore, the sugar-based emulsifier may be a fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide of formula (II),

R ³

I

R ² CO-N- [Z] (II)

in the R ² CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{3 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.

Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, especially glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (III):

R ² CO-NR ³ -CH ² - (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH (III)

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (III) in which R ^{3 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ² CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, Isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The nonionic sugar-based surfactant is preferably contained in the compositions of the invention in amounts of 0.001-3.0% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01-2.0% by weight are particularly preferred.

Of course, in addition to the essential ingredients described above, the compositions according to the invention may optionally contain further conventional ingredients. These are especially added to give the compositions other desired properties, such as an anti-dandruff or increasing volume etc. These ingredients will now be described.

As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols. Saturated and unbranched fatty alcohols are preferably used with a C chain length of C6-C18, preferably Cs-C18 and most preferably C10-C16. Mono- or polyunsaturated fatty alcohols and also branched and unsaturated or branched and saturated fatty alcohols are preferably used with a C chain length of C6-C30, preferably C10 to C22 and very particularly preferably of C12-C22. For the purposes of the invention, for example, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, these lists being exemplary and not limiting Character should have. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.

The fatty alcohols are contained in a total amount of 0, 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total composition, preferably in a total amount of 0, 1 - 5 wt .-%.

As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ^® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (BASF) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0, 1 - 15 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The amount is preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, with amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight being particularly advantageous.

Furthermore, cosmetic oils which are different from the obligatory ester oils may additionally be present. Preferably, these oil bodies have a melting point less than 50 ° C, more preferably less than 45 ° C, most preferably less than 40 ° C, most preferably less than 35 ° C and most preferably the cosmetic oils at a temperature less than 30 ° C flowable. In the following, these oils are defined and described in more detail.

Suitable cosmetic oils other than the obligatory ester oils are, for example:

liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

The total amount of cosmetic oils, which are different from the obligatory ester oils, is 0, 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0, 1 - 1 wt .-%, each based on the entire remedy.

Furthermore, the following cationic surfactants according to the formula (Tkat-2) can be used: RCO-XN ⁺ RR ² R ³ A ^" (Tkat-2)

R here stands for a substituted or unsubstituted, branched or straight-chain alkyl or alkenyl radical having 1 to 35 carbon atoms in the chain,

X stands for - O -,

R is an alkylene group having 2 to 6 C atoms, which may be unsubstituted or substituted, in which case substitution with an -OH or -NH group is preferred in the case of a substitution,

R ² , R ³ each independently represents an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group of 1 up to

6 C - atoms in the chain, where the chain can be rectilinear or branched.

R5 is hydrogen or a C1 to C6 straight or branched alkyl or

Alkenyl radical, which may also be substituted by a hydroxy group.

Furthermore, esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) can be used.

R2

l ₊

-N- A- R4 Q

I

R3

(Tkat1-2)

Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,

the rest (- A - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 can stand for this radical:

The remainder - (A - R4) is contained one to three times. Herein A stands for:

1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

3) a hydroxyalkylene group having one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples are:> CHOH, -CH ₂ CHOH-, -CHOHCHOH-, -CH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ -,> C (CH ₂ OH) ₂ ,> C (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH ₂ CHOHCHOH-, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₂ OH) - , and hydroxybutyl radicals, and R4 stands for:

1) R6-COO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 can be ethoxylated to 100 propylene oxide units, or

2) R7-CO-, wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,

and Q is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, dehydrogenation quart ^® and Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-Palmitoyloxy- ethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU 35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ^® DPG and Stepantex ^® VS 90 are examples of such esterquats.

Further compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention belong to the formula (Tkat1-2.1), the cationic betaine esters.

R 8 -, wherein R 8 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which may further be with 1 to

100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated. The anion of all cationic compounds is selected from the physiologically acceptable anions. Exemplary of these are the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide; Sulfate of the general formula RSO3 ^" , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic organic acid residues such as maleate, fumarate, propionate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate, called.

The aforementioned optional cationic surfactants can be used individually or in any combination with each other, wherein amounts between 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-% and most preferably from 0, 1-7 , 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the composition, are preferred. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the composition. Optional emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

Addition products of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

C 12 -C 22 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,

Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides,

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil, partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C

atoms,

Sterols, both from animal tissue (zoosterols, cholesterol, lanosterol) and from plant fats (phytosterols, ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) or from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols),

Phospholipids (lecithins, phopshatidylcholines),

Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,

Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate

(Dehymuls ^® PGPH commercial product).

Further optional emulsifiers for the compositions according to the invention may be phospholipids. As the phospholipid, both natural and synthetic phospholipids are useful. Preferred are phospholipids on a natural basis. As phospholipids in particular compounds of the formula (phosphol-I) can be used.

(Phosphole I)

In the formula (phosphol-I), y is an integer of 0 to 2, x is an integer of 1 to 3 with the proviso that the sum of x and y is equal to 3.

In the phospholipids of the formula (phosphol-1), furthermore, M is hydrogen, one equivalent of an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium cation or an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups. Particularly preferred are compounds in which M is a sodium cation.

Furthermore, B in the formula (Phosphol-I) of the phospholipids to be used according to the invention is one equivalent of a physiologically tolerated anion. As the anion, e.g. Chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfate, perchlorate, tetrafluoroborate, tetraphenylborate and tetrachlorozincate. Preferably, the chloride ion.

R in the formula (phosphol-1) is a radical of the formula (II)

in which z is an integer from 1 to 4, in particular 3, and R and R ² independently of one another are a C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl radical which is optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy group (s) or an acyl group.

A represents, according to the invention, one of the moieties -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -O-CH 2 -CH 2 - or -O-CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 -, the moiety -O-CH 2 -CHOH-CH 2 - being particularly preferred ,

The radical R ³ stands for

(a) a branched or unbranched, saturated Cs to cis-acyl radical or

(B) a branched or unbranched, mono- or polyunsaturated Cs bis

Cis-acyl group.

Particularly preferred saturated radicals R ³ are the radical of stearic acid and also the radicals of the mixture of the fatty acids which are obtained from coconut oil.

A particularly preferred unsaturated radical R ³ is the radical of linoleic acid.

Examples of the ci to C4-alkyl groups mentioned as substituents in the compounds according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl groups are preferred alkyl groups. Very particular preference is given to methyl groups.

Very particularly preferred phospholipids of the formula (phosphol-1) are the substances known under the INCI names linoleneamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® .

Furthermore, the glycerol phospholipids, which are obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines, for example from egg yolk or plant seeds, in particular soybeans, are used as phospholipids according to the invention. Phospholipids are in particular phosphoglycerides. Glycero-phospholipids which are particularly suitable according to the invention are obtained from soybeans. Of these, the phosphatidylcholines, phosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidylserines and phosphatidylinositols and mixtures of these substances are particularly preferred.

The particularly preferred phosphatidylcholines have the formula (phosphol-II),

(Phosphole Il)

in which the radicals R and R ² each independently of one another an acyl group of fatty acids having a carbon number of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and particularly preferably 12 to 22

C atoms, represent. The Fettsäu rereste can be both saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated. The saturated acyl radicals of C 12 -C 22 -fatty acids are preferred. Particularly preferred are the acyl radicals of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid and

Behenic acid.

The phosphatidylethanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are those of the formula (phospholyl) or (phosphol-11b),

(Phosphole Ila)

(Phosphol IIb)

in which the radicals R and R ^{2 have the} same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-III). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylethanolamines in which R and R ² independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearoyl radical.

The phosphatidylserines preferred according to the invention are those of the structural formula (IIIa) or (IIIb)

(Phosphatidylserine purple) R2-O-C-C-O-P-O-C-C-NH

H H I H, H

O (phosphatidylserines IIIb)

in which R and R ^{2 have the} same meaning as shown for formula (phosphol-II). Particular preference is given to phosphatidylserines in which R and R ² independently of one another represent saturated acyl radicals of fatty acids having 16 or 18 carbon atoms, in particular a palmitoyl or stearyl radical.

The phosphatidylinositols preferred according to the invention have the structural formula (IVa) or (IVb)

(Phosphatidylinositol IVa)

(Phosphatidylinositol IVb)

in which the radicals R and R ^{2 have the} same meaning as set forth for formula (phosphol-II). For R, acyl radicals of palmitic acid, stearic acid and arachidic acid are preferred; particularly preferred is a stearic acid acyl radical. R ² is particularly preferably a linear saturated C 2- fatty acid acyl radical (arachoyl radical).

The glycerophospholipids used according to the invention have an iodine value of not more than 10, preferably of not more than 5.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several phospholipids. A preferred phospholipid according to the invention is commercially available under the name Emulmetik® 100 (BASF). The phospholipids according to the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations of from 0.1% by weight up to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight up to 5% by weight, very particularly preferably in amounts of 0.1 wt .-% up to 3 wt .-% and most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 1, 5 wt .-%.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The cationic polymers can be homopolymers or copolymers, wherein the quaternary nitrogen groups either in the polymer chain or preferably as a substituent on one or more the monomers are contained. The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable cationic monomers are unsaturated, free-radically polymerizable compounds which carry at least one cationic group, in particular ammonium-substituted vinyl monomers such as, for example, trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium and quaternary vinylammonium monomers having cyclic, cationic nitrogen-containing groups such as pyridinium, imidazolium or quaternary Pyrrolidones, for example alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

The ammonium group-containing monomers may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers. Suitable comonomers are, for example, acrylamide, methacrylamide; Alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkylacrylate, alkylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactone, vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylester, e.g. Vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, wherein the alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C 1 - to C 7 -alkyl groups, particularly preferably C 1 - to C 3 -alkyl groups.

Examples of suitable polymers having quaternary amine groups are the polymers described in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary under the names Polyquaternium, such as methylvinylimidazolium chloride / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (Polyquaternium-16) or quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11).

Among the cationic polymers that can be included in the inventive composition, for example vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl copolymer available under the trade names Gafquat ^® 755 N and Gafquat ^® 734, United States is marketed by Gaf Co. and of which the Gafquat ^® 734 is particularly preferred suitable. Other cationic polymers are, for example, Germany, marketed by the company BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® HM 550 copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and imidazolimine which ^® by the company Calgon / USA under the trade name Merquat Plus 3300 sold terpolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sodium acrylate and acrylamide and sold by the company ISP under the trade name Gafquat ^® HS 100 vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylic amidopropyltrimethylammoniumchlorid copolymer.

Homopolymers of the general formula (P1), - {CH ₂ - [CRCOO- (CH ₂ ) m N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ ]} _n X ^" ,

in which R = -H or -CH ³ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4-

Alkyl, alkenyl or hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and

X ^"is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion

Polymers are those inventively preferred for which at least one of the following

Conditions are: R is a methyl group, R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups, m is 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^" are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions, preference being given to halide ions, in particular chloride. Suitable cationic guar derivatives are marketed under the trade name Jaguar ^® and have the INCI name guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Further particularly suitable cationic guar derivatives are also used by the company. Hercules under the name N-Hance ^® commercially. Other cationic guar derivatives are marketed by the company. BASF under the name Cosmedia® ^®. A preferred cationic guar derivative is the commercial product AquaCat® ^® from. Hercules.

A suitable chitosan is sold, for example, by Kyowa Oil & Fat, Japan under the trade name Flonac ^®. A preferred chitosan is carboxylate Chitosoniumpyrrolidon- that is, for example, sold under the name Kytamer ^® PC by Amerchol, USA. Further chitosan derivatives are Hydagen® ^® CMF, Hydagen® ^® HCMF and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available under the trade names in the trade.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

cationic alkyl polyglycosides,

cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (poly (dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer), commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers, vinyl pyrrolidone-vinyl imidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are sold under the names Luviquat ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552 are offered,

quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,

and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered with acrylic acid esters and acrylamides as the third monomer building commercially, for example, under the name Aquaflex ^® SF 40.

Also usable in the invention are the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufactured by ISP), Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP), Gafquat ^® ASCP 101 1, Gafquat ^® HS 1 10, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 are available. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolysates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products.

The additional cationic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.05 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers can be used as polymers. The term "amphoteric polymers" includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SCbH groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO - or - contain SCb ^' groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SOsH groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

Amphoteric and / or cationic polymers preferred according to the invention are those polymers in which a cationic group is derived from at least one of the following monomers: (i) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (monol),

R is -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C n H ₂ n) -N ^<+) R ² R ³ R ⁴ A <> (monol)

in which R and R ² independently of one another represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another represent alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z denotes an NH group or an oxygen atom, n denotes an integer of 2 to 5 and A ^{() is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

Monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (Mono 2),

wherein R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently an (O to C4) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group and

A ^"is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid,

(iii) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (mono 3),

R ⁸ -CH = CR ⁹ -COOH (mono 3)

in which R ⁸ and R ^{9 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

Particularly preferred are those polymers in which monomers of type (i) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{() is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion ; Acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (i). As the monomer (ii) for the polymers mentioned, acrylic acid is preferably used.

Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers are copolymers of at least one monomer (monol) or (mono 2) with the monomer (mono 3), in particular copolymers of the monomers (mono 2) and (mono 3). Very particularly preferably used according to the invention amphoteric polymers are copolymers of diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid. These Copolymers sold under the INCI name Polyquaternium-22, among others, with the trade name Merquat ^® 280 (Nalco).

In addition, the amphoteric polymers of the invention may be used in addition to a monomer

(Monol) or (mono 2) and one monomer (mono 3) additionally one monomer (mono 4)

(iv) monomeric carboxylic acid amides of the general formula (mono 4),

in which R ⁰ and R independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups and R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 to C 8) -alkyl group.

Amphoteric polymers based on a comonomer (Mono4) which are very particularly preferably used according to the invention are terpolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride, acrylamide and acrylic acid. These copolymers are marketed ^® under the INCI name Polyquaternium-39, among others, with the trade name Merquat Plus 3330 (Nalco).

The amphoteric polymers can generally be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention.

The amphoteric polymers are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer can be found to be particularly effective, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is commercially available, for example under the name Rheothik ^® 1 1-80 is.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1, 9-decadiene crosslinked maleic acid methyl vinyl ether copolymer is available under the name ^® Stabileze QM.

The anionic polymers are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

An inventively particularly preferred polyurethane is available under the trade name Luviset.RTM ^® PUR (BASF).

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionogenic polymers.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, as sold, for example, under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73, each Vinylpyrro- lidon / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.

Cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as sold for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules).

Starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;

shellac

Polyvinylpyrrolidones, as sold for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).

The nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations used contain a plurality, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and a amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The polymers (P) are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention Amounts from 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Amounts of from 0.01 to 25, in particular from 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

As a further optional ingredient, the agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one silicone polymer selected from the group of dimethiconols and / or the group of amino-functional silicones and / or the group of dimethicones and / or the group of cyclomethicones. These ingredients are described below.

The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (Sil):

(SiR ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² 2 - O -) x - (SiR ₃ ) (Sil)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil 1):

The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps. Most preferred are viscosities around the range of about 60,000 cps. As an example, reference is made to the product "Dow Corning 200 with 60000 cSt".

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x-0-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Sil. 2),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

The dimethicones (sil) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total composition. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Such silicones may be represented, for example, by the formula (Si-2)

M (RaQbSiO (4-a-b) / 2) x (RcSiO (4-c) / 2) yM (Si-2)

Be described, taking in the above formula

R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6

Carbon atoms,

Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R HZ,

wherein

R is a divalent linking group bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and

Z is an organic, amino-functional group containing at least one amino-functional group;

a assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2,

b takes values in the range of about 1 to about 3,

a + b is less than or equal to 3, and

c is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3, and

x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and

y is a number in the range of from about 20 to about 10,000, preferably from about 125 to about

10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and

M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy.

Z is according to formula (Si-2) an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for said Z is NH (CH 2) z NH 2, where z is an integer greater than or equal to 1. Another possible formula for said Z is -NH (CH 2) z (CH 2) zzNH, wherein both z and zz independently of one another are an integer greater than or equal to 1, this structure comprising diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Said Z is most preferably a -NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2 radical. Another possible formula for said Z is -N (CH 2) z (CH 2) zzNX 2 or -NX 2, wherein each X of X 2 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q according to formula (Si-2) is most preferably a polar amino-functional radical of formula - CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 NHCH 2 CH 2 NH 2.

In the formula (Si-2), α assumes values in the range of 0 to 2, b takes values in the range of 2 to 3, a + b is less than or equal to 3, and c is a number in the range of 1 to 3. Suitable for the purposes of the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Dow Corning (DC) 929 Emulsion, DC 2-2078, DC 5-71 13, SM-2059 (General Electric) and SLM-55067 (Wacker). Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si 3-a)

(CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] n [O-Si (CH ₃ )] m -OSi (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-3a),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) 2 NH 2

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration and are available, for example, under the name Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone).

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-3b)

R- [Si (CH3) 2-0] ni [Si (R ') - 0] m- [Si (CH3) 2-0] n2 SiMe ₂ R (Si-3b),

I

contain, in which

R is -OH, an (optionally ethoxylated and / or propoxylated) (Ci to C20) -

Alkoxy group or a -CH 3 group,

R 'represents -OH, a (C1 to C2o) alkoxy group or a -CH3 group and

m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, the sum (n1 + n2) preferably having values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values of

1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These silicones are according to the INCI declaration as Amodimethicone, or as functionalized Amodimethicone, such as bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (for example, as a commercial product: DC 8500 from Dow Corning available), trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicones (for example as a commercial product Silcare Silicone SEA available from Clariant). Suitable diquaternary silicones are selected from compounds of the general formula (Si3c) [RR ² R ³ N ⁺ - A - SiR ⁷ R ⁸ - (O-SiR ⁹ R ⁰⁾ _n - O - SiR R ¹² - A - N ⁺ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ ] 2X ^" (Si 3c)

where R 1 to R 6 independently of one another are C 1 to C 22 -alkyl radicals which may contain hydroxyl groups and where preferably at least one of the radicals has at least 8 C atoms and the remaining radicals have 1 to 4 C atoms,

the radicals R 7 to R 12, independently of one another, are identical or different and are C 1 - to C 10 -alkyl or phenyl, A is a divalent organic compound group,

n is a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 10 to 120, more preferably from 10 to 40, and X ^"is an anion. The divalent linking group is preferably a C1 to C12 alkylene or alkoxyalkylene group which may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Particularly preferred is the group - (CH ₂ ) 3-0-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -.

The anion X ^" may be a halide ion, an acetate, an organic carboxylate or a compound of the general formula RSO3 ^" , wherein R has the meaning of C1 to C4 alkyl radicals.

A preferred diquaternary silicone has the general formula (Si3d)

[RN ⁺ Me ₂ -A- (SiMe ₂ O) n -SiMe ₂ -A-N ⁺ Me ₂ R] 2 CH ₃ COO ^" (Si ₃ d),

where A is the group - (CH ₂ ) ₃ - O - CH ₂ - CH (OH) - CH ₂ -,

R is an alkyl radical having at least 8 C atoms and n is a number from 10 to 120.

Suitable silicone polymers having two terminal quaternary ammonium groups are among

INCI name Quaternium-80 known. These are dimethylsiloxanes with two terminal trialkylammonium groups. Such diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes are marketed by Evonik under the trade names Abil ^® Quat 3270, 3272 and 3474th

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8

Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 5 wt .-% amino-functional (s) silicone (s) and / or diquaternary silicone.

As silicone, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds can be obtained, for example, under the trade name Baysilone® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products with the names Baysilone TP 391 1, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 391 1 as the active component of the compositions according to the invention. The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are in the compositions of the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, each in relation to the total composition.

In addition, other cationic amino-functional silicone polymers can also be used. EP 1887024 A1 describes novel cationic amino-functional silicones which in particular improve the gloss in agents for the care of surfaces, for example human hair. These cationic silicone polymers are characterized in that they have a silicone backbone and at least one polyether part and furthermore at least one part with an ammonium structure. Examples of the preferred cationic silicone polymers for the purposes of the present invention are, in addition to the compounds of the aforementioned EP 1887024 A1, in particular the compounds with the INCI names: Silicone Quaternium-1, Silicone Quaternium-2, Silicone Quaternium-3, Silicone Quaternium Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-5, Silicone Quaternium-6, Silicone Quaternium-7, Silicone Quaternium-8, Silicone Quaternium-9, Silicone Quaternium-10, Silicone Quaternium-1 1, Silicone Quaternium-12, Silicone Quaternium-15, Silicone Quaternium-16, Silicone Quaternium-17, Silicone Quaternium-18, Silicone Quaternium-20, Silicone Quaternium-21, Silicone Quaternium-22 and Silicone Quaternium-2 Panthenol Succinate and Silicone Quaternium-16 / Glycidyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer. Most preferred is Silicone Quaternium-22. This raw material is sold, for example, by the company Evonik under the trade name Abil ^® Quat T 60th

The abovementioned cationic amino-functional silicone polymers are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 7, 5 wt .-% included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the respective agent. According to the invention it may be particularly advantageous if only the aforementioned silicones are used as silicones. The cyclic dimethicones designated as cyclomethicones according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-4)

(Si-4)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 3 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6 stands.

Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Si-5)

R ₃ Si [0-SiR 2] x- (CH ₂ ) n- [0-SiR 2] y-0-SiR ₃ (Si-5),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci-20-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H 3, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 2, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y represent a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.

As further silicones in addition to the dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and / or cyclo-methicones, water-soluble silicones can be present in the compositions according to the invention.

Corresponding hydrophilic silicones are selected, for example, from the compounds of the formulas (Si-6) and / or (Si-7). Particularly preferred water-soluble silicone-based surfactants are selected from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated.

Dimethicone copolyols are understood according to the invention as meaning preferably polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (Si-6) or (Si-7):

in which the radical R represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group, the radicals R 'and R "denote alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms, x is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30, y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and a and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30 ,

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade names SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING. Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193.

The dimethicone copolyols are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition. Finally, among the silicone compounds Dimethiconole (Si8) understood. The dimethiconols preferred according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):

(SiOHR ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² 2 - O -) x - (SiOHR ₂ ) (Si 8 - I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):

The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cPs measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 1,000 and 5,000,000 cPs, most preferred viscosities are between 10,000 and 3,000,000 cps. The most preferred range is between 50,000 and 2,000,000 cps.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), Dow Coming 1401 Fluid, Dow Coming 1403 Fluid Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all four aforementioned GE Silicones), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 31 12 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above). The dimethiconols (Si8) are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-% of dimethiconol based on the composition.

Another inventive synergistic active ingredient in the compositions according to the invention with the combination of active substances according to the invention are protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives (P).

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.

Further preferred vegetable protein hydrolysates according to the invention are, for example, soybean, almond, pea, moringa, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (BASF), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda), Crotein ^® (Croda) and Puricare ^® LS 9658 from Laboratoires Serobiologiques.

Further preferred protein hydrolysates according to the invention are of maritime origin. These include, for example, collagen hydrolyzates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates. Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

The protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions at levels of from 0.001% to 20%, preferably from 0.05% to 15% and most preferably in amounts of 0, 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-% included.

The effect of the compositions of the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidi- ηοη-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C 1 - to C 4 -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The A- amounts set in the inventive compositions are 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0, 1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient combination according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.

Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a. Vitamin B1 (thiamine), vitamin B2 (riboflavin) and vitamin B3. Under the name vitamin B3 often the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide) out. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, and cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.

Vitamin Ββ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B3, Bs and ββ, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalaines, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bi- tartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in US Pat Literature referred to as betaine compound Ν, Ν, Ν trimethylglycine.

Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.

A particularly important ingredient is taurine and / or a derivative of taurine. Taurine is exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative is understood to mean the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, Ν, Ν-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithithate, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine. Further taurine derivatives for the purposes of the present invention are taurocholic acid and hypotaurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included. In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.

Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, Thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from A group formed by carnitine, taurine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a B-series vitamin, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.

In a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention should additionally contain at least one UV light protection filter. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

As oil-soluble substances are e.g. to call:

3-Benzylidene camphor, e.g. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate;

Triazine derivatives, e.g. 2,4,6-Trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and

Octyl.

Propane-1,3-diones, e.g. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone

5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, e.g. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene sulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane come into question, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione or 1-phenyl-3 (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble pigments, in particular finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose For example, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, ceria, zirconia, silicates (talc), barium sulfate and zinc stearate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.

Finally, the use of plant extracts (L) in the compositions according to the invention gives rise to further advantages. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Extra kte plants such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, maize, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, Meadow foxtail, oat grass, ostrich grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grasses, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called flame grass or cogon grass), buffalo grass, silt grasses, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice) , Marram grass, perennial grass, honey grasses, grasses, bluegrass, couch grass and Echinacea, in particular Echinacea angustifolia DC, Echinacea paradoxa (Norton), Echinacea simulata, E. atrorubens, E. tennesiensis, Echinacea strigosa (McGregor), Echinacea laevigata, Echinacea purpurea ( L.) Moench and Echinacea pallida (Nutt), all types of wine and Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

In addition, the cosmetic agents may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as, for example, acidulants such as citric acid and lactic acid, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, zinc Omadine and climbazole, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments, stabilizers for hydrogen peroxide and other oxidants, blowing agents such as Propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air, antioxidants, perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances.

Regarding further optional components as well as the used amounts of these components Reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

As already mentioned, the high care effect of the compositions according to the invention is of particular importance. Preferred agents according to the invention comprise, in a cosmetic carrier, in addition to the most preferred components of the active ingredient combination, in particular beventrimium chloride, stearamidopropyl, dimethylamine, isopropyl myristate, polyquaternium-37 and bis-diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer or in particular cetyltrimonium chloride, Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isopropyl myristate, polyquaternium-37 and bis-diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer, furthermore a cationic amino-functional silicone, most preferably silicone quaternium-22, a B-series vitamin and additionally at least one of the following active ingredients (i) to (viii):

(i) at least taurine or at least one derivative of taurine

(ii) at least one purine, especially caffeine,

(iii) at least carnitine,

(iv) at least ectoine,

(v) at least one ubiquinone, in particular coenzyme Q-10

(vi) at least one UV absorber,

(vii) at least one plant extract, in particular selected from the extracts of hops, ginseng, litchie chinensis or echinacea,

(viii) Ectoin.

A further subject of the invention is the use of a composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for improving the resistance of the surface of keratinic fibers to physical damage. Physical damage is understood according to the invention to be the action of UV light, the action of heat during blow-drying, mechanical effects during combing and brushing of the hair.

Another object of the present invention is the use of a composition according to the invention or preferred according to the invention for improving the washout stability of dyed keratinic fibers.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the agents according to the invention apply.

Another subject of the invention is a hair treatment process in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and is rinsed by the hair after a contact time. The exposure time is preferably 5 seconds to 100 minutes, more preferably 1 to 45 minutes, and most preferably 2 to 30 minutes.

According to the invention is also a method in which a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 is applied to the hair and remains there. According to the invention, "remaining on the hair" means that the agent is not rinsed out of the hair immediately after it has been used, but in this case the agent remains on the hair for more than 100 minutes until the next hair wash. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutandis the statements made concerning the agents according to the invention apply.

Examples:

All quantities are in% by weight. The following hair conditioner formulations of the invention have been provided using known methods of preparation:

BIS-DIISOPROPANOLAMINO-PG-PROPYL DIMETHICONE / BIS-ISOBUTYL PEG-14 COPOLYMER (50% by weight, by weight of Dow Corning CE 841 1 Smooth Plus emulsion), POLYSORBATE 20 (0.06% by weight), BUTYLOCTANOL (0.07% by weight), water (ad 100% by weight)

Claims

claims:

Cosmetic composition for conditioning keratinic fibers containing in a cosmetic carrier

a) in a total amount of 0, 1 to 6.0 wt .-% of at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkatl),

R1

U

R4-N-R2

(Tkatl),

wherein R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxy groups with the proviso that at least one of R1, R2, R3 or R4 is other than hydrogen, and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates, further in a total amount of zero , From 0.01 to 6.0% by weight of at least one amidoamine and / or at least one permanently cationic amidoamine,

in a total amount of from 0.01 to 7.5% by weight of at least one ester oil, in a total amount of from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight of at least one cationic polymer, preferably selected from polyquaternium-67 and / or polyquaternium 72 and / or Polyquaternium-74 and / or Polyquaternium-37 and

in a total amount of from 0.001 to 3.0% by weight of at least one silicone block copolymer comprising structural units of the formulas (I) and (II)

in which

p is an integer from 1 to 30, preferably 10, 1 1, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17 or 18 and

m and n are integers between 2 and 200,

all quantities are based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkatl) is selected from lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dimethyldibehenylammonium chloride, tribehenylmethyltrimonium chloride, cocotrimonium chloride, dicocodimonium chloride, tricocomonium chloride and mixtures thereof.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one amidoamine or the at least one permanently cationic amidoamine is selected from lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, Oleamidopropyl dimethylamines, behenamidopropyl dimethylamines, palmamidopropyl dimethylamines, quaternium-33, behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates, oleamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates, cocamidopropyltrimonium chlorides, rinoleamidopropyltrimonium chlorides, stearamidopropyl trimonium methosulfates and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from amidoamines stearamidopropyl dimethylamines, cocamidopropyl dimethylamines, ricinolamidopropyl dimethylamines, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamines, Oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmamidopropyl dimethylamine, quater nium-33 and behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfates and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from stearamidopropyl dimethylamines.

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the at least one amidoamine or the at least one permanent cationic amidoamine in a total amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 2, 5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition are included.

5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one ester oil is selected from isopropyl myristate, lsononansäure- C16-18 alkyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearic acid-2-ethylhexylester, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate , Coconut fatty alcohol caprinate V caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, lauric acid hexyl ester, di-n-butyl adipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from isopropyl myristate.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the cationic polymer is Polyquaternium-37.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkatl) in a total amount of 0.2 to 4.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 3, 0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition is included.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the at least one silicone block copolymer e) containing structural units of the formulas (I) and (II) is selected from at least one compound having the INCI name Bis-diisopropanolamino-PG-propyl dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PEG-14 copolymer.

9. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the at least one ester oil in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5.0 wt .-%, especially preferably from 0.2 to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention is contained.

10. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the at least one silicone block copolymer e) in a total amount of 0, 1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt. %, most preferably 1 to 1, 5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.

1 1. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the at least one cationic surfactant of the formula (Tkatl) is selected from Behentrimoniumchlorid and / or Cetyltrimoniumchlorid and their mixture.

12. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that

a) 0.3 to 2.5 wt .-% behentrimonium chloride and / or cetrimonium chloride,

b) 0.2-1.5% by weight of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,

all quantities are based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

13. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 1 1, characterized in that

a) 0.3 to 2.5% by weight of captivonium chloride,

b) 0.2-1.5% by weight of stearamidopropyl dimethylamine,

c) 0.2 to 5% by weight of isopropyl myristate,

d) 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-% Polyquaternium-37 and

all quantities are based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

14. Use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for improving the washout resistance of dyed keratinic fibers or for improving the resistance of the hair surface to physical damage.

15. A method for the treatment of keratinic fibers, in particular of human hair, characterized in that on the washed and towel-dry keratinic fibers, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 is applied, there for a time of 5 seconds to 100 minutes, preferably 1 to 45 minutes and more preferably 2 to 30 minutes remains and is then rinsed from the keratinic fibers.