EP2964333A1 - Powdered composition for use in the preparation of whitening cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Powdered composition for use in the preparation of whitening cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number
EP2964333A1
EP2964333A1 EP14707423.1A EP14707423A EP2964333A1 EP 2964333 A1 EP2964333 A1 EP 2964333A1 EP 14707423 A EP14707423 A EP 14707423A EP 2964333 A1 EP2964333 A1 EP 2964333A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
agent
pigment
composition according
composition
extract
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP14707423.1A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Enrico GALLINO
Pamela EKLOU
Virginie Boulier
Marianne PELTIER
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies SAS
Original Assignee
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies SAS filed Critical Sensient Cosmetic Technologies SAS
Publication of EP2964333A1 publication Critical patent/EP2964333A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9711Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9717Rhodophycota or Rhodophyta [red algae], e.g. Porphyra
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48Thickener, Thickening system
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596Mixtures of surface active compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients

Definitions

  • Powdery composition useful for the preparation of cosmetic whitening compositions
  • the present invention relates to a powdery composition useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions having a whitening effect.
  • a whitening effect is then sought not only during the application of the cosmetic composition, but also over time for the whitening effect to occur in the longer term.
  • whitening and / or brightening agents have been developed and introduced into cosmetic compositions.
  • Cosmetic compositions having a whitening or brightening effect are for example described in the EP applications
  • Bleaching agents are often not very stable because they degrade by heat and / or by oxidation, especially in an aqueous medium.
  • the method for preparing a cosmetic composition typically comprises mixing the various constituents of the cosmetic composition. This method is facilitated when "all-in-one" products comprising several of the constituents of the cosmetic composition can be used in place of the constituents taken alone.
  • the process comprises fewer steps, involves fewer starting materials, and the sometimes expensive component losses that may occur during the separate introduction of each component can be minimized.
  • the invention relates to a powdery composition consisting of:
  • an additive selected from vitamin B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, a red algae extract, a brown algae extract and mixtures thereof, and
  • This powdery composition is adapted to be introduced into a cosmetic composition.
  • the inventors have discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising this powdery composition has a whitening effect not only during the application of the cosmetic composition to the skin, but also a whitening effect prolonged in time when the cosmetic composition is applied daily, in particular over a period of at least 9 days.
  • this prolonged effect over time would be due to the release of the whitening agent and / or the lightening agent from the pulverulent composition, this release being able especially to take place during the preparation of the cosmetic composition, or during the application of the cosmetic composition.
  • the use of whitening agents is limited by the fact that these agents are often unstable.
  • the whitening agent and / or the lightening agent of the pulverulent composition degrade less than the same whitening agents and / or free lightening agents, because they are encapsulated in the encapsulating agent of the powdery composition.
  • the pulverulent composition can be stored before it is introduced into a cosmetic composition without these agents being degraded.
  • the powder composition comprises one or more pigments.
  • the pigment (s) present in the pulverulent composition according to the invention can (independently) be an organic, inorganic or organic pigment.
  • organic-inorganic hybrid or mineral filler are typically inorganic pigments.
  • the inorganic pigment may, for example, be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, aluminum oxide, as well as iron or chromium oxides, and manganese violet. ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments can be used as such or optionally surface-treated, in the form of surface-treated pigments or nanopigments surface-treated.
  • the preferred inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide, aluminum oxide and mixtures thereof, and preferably titanium dioxide or zinc oxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic pigment may for example be selected from carbon black, such as D & C black No. 2, red organic pigments, such as D & C Red No. 6, No. 7, No. 21, No. 27, No. ° 28, No. 30, No. 33, No. 36, No. 40, and Cochineal Carmine, blue organic pigments, such as copper phthalocyanine and FD & C Blue No. 1 lacquer, and organic pigments yellow, such as D & C Yellow No. 10, FD & C Yellow No. 5 and 6.
  • carbon black such as D & C black No. 2
  • red organic pigments such as D & C Red No. 6, No. 7, No. 21, No. 27, No. ° 28, No. 30, No. 33, No. 36, No. 40, and Cochineal Carmine
  • blue organic pigments such as copper phthalocyanine and FD & C Blue No. 1 lacquer
  • organic pigments yellow such as D & C Yellow No. 10, FD & C Yellow No. 5 and 6.
  • the composition comprises from 80% to 97% by weight of pigment (s) relative to the total weight of the powder composition.
  • the pulverulent composition according to the invention comprises one or more bleaching agents.
  • a whitening agent is a chemical compound, synthetic or natural, which makes it possible to have a depigmenting effect on the skin.
  • Two methods are usually used to highlight this depigmenting effect: either by quantifying the level of melanin in the epidermis, or by using the CIE Lab L * a * b * method to evaluate the color of the epidermis (the L * parameter indicating the clarity and the parameters a * and b * indicating the direction of the colors), for example by applying the bleaching agents on reconstituted pigmented human skin in vitro of the MelanoDerm® (MatTek) type. From these values, it is possible to calculate the color difference ( ⁇ * ) that characterizes the difference in color between two points ( ⁇ * is higher when the skin is dark), calculated according to the formula:
  • whitening agents can act according to several types of mechanisms:
  • whitening agents act by a combination of several of these mechanisms.
  • the whitening agent (s) may (may independently) be chosen from kojic acid, ⁇ -arbutin, hydroquinone, vitamin C or a salt thereof, ascorbyl glucoside , a licorice extract, azelaic acid, ⁇ -hydroxy acids (especially lactic acid or glycolic acid), aloesin, gallic acid and its derivatives (in particular the esters of gallic acid and hydroflavanols, such as epicatechin-3-O-gallate (ECG), gallocatechin-3-O-gallate (GCG), epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate (EGCG), and epigallocatechin (EGC)), glutathione, glycolic acid, hexyl resorcinol, hydroxystylbene and its derivatives (especially resveratrol (3,4 ', 5 trihydroxystilbene) and its isomers (oxyresveratrol and methoxyresveratol)).
  • ECG epicatechin-3-O
  • the preferred bleaching agents are ⁇ -arbutin and licorice extract.
  • a licorice extract whose glycyrrhizic acid concentration is greater than or equal to 0.15% is typically chosen, for example that marketed by Alban Muller International under the trade name Botanical Reglisse PS.
  • the composition comprises from 1% to 5% by weight of whitening agent (s) relative to the total weight of the powdery composition.
  • the pulverulent composition according to the invention comprises one or more lightening agents.
  • a lightening agent makes it possible to intensify the brightness and to brighten the hues of the cosmetic compositions comprising them when applied to the skin.
  • the lightening effect can in particular be measured with a chromatometer, in particular by using the CIE Lab L * a * b * method , for example by applying the lightening agents to reconstituted pigmented human skin in vitro of the MelanoDerm® type (MatTek ). From these values, it is possible to calculate the color difference ( ⁇ * ) as explained above.
  • the lightening agent (s) may (may independently) be chosen from optical brighteners and nacres (such as borosilicates or mica, natural or synthetic (such as synthetic fluorphlogopite), and said mica optionally being coated with titanium oxide (TiO 2 ), iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ) (red, yellow or black), chromium oxide (Cr 2 O 3 ), carmine , Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, manganese violet or mixtures thereof), silica, alumina and mixtures thereof).
  • optical brighteners and nacres such as borosilicates or mica, natural or synthetic (such as synthetic fluorphlogopite
  • mica optionally being coated with titanium oxide (TiO 2 ), iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ) (red, yellow or black), chromium oxide (Cr 2 O 3 ), carmine , Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, manganese violet or mixtures thereof), silica, alumina and mixtures thereof).
  • Optical brighteners are optically brightening agents, and are chemical compounds with fluorescent properties, which absorb in the ultraviolet (maximum absorption at a wavelength below 400 nm) and re-emit fluorescence energy. in the wavelength range between 380 nm and 830 nm. An energy emission between 400 nm and 480 nm results in an emission in the blue of the visible range, which contributes, when this emission takes place on the skin, to bleach it visually.
  • a 1 is an aromatic, heterocyclic or alkyl group
  • a 2 is a hydrogen atom or an alkylene group
  • a 3 is a heterocyclic group
  • a 4 , A 5 , A 6 , A 7 , B and B 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a -SO 3 Na group or an alkyl group
  • aromatic groups used may be groups comprising one or more benzene rings, for example phenyl, biphenyl or substituted phenyl groups or aromatic groups formed from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, such as naphthyl, phenanthryl, anthracenyl or fluoranthenyl groups.
  • heterocyclic groups are saturated, unsaturated or aromatic cyclic groups containing carbon atoms, especially 3 to 10, and one or more heteroatoms (in particular 1, 2 or 3) such as O, N and S.
  • heterocyclic groups there may be mentioned thienyl, furyl, pyrannyl, isobenzofuranyl, isobenzothienyl, pyrrolyl, pyridyl, pyrazolyl.
  • the alkyl groups are linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon groups, preferably having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, for example the tert-butyl group.
  • the alkylene groups are linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon groups preferably having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, for example methylene or ethylene.
  • the preferred optical brighteners are sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene2,2'-disulfonate, 2,5-thiophenedi- ylbis (5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), sodium di-styryl-4,4'-biphenyldisulfonate, and disodium distrylbiphenyl disulfonate.
  • the lightening agent is mica, natural or synthetic (such as synthetic fluorphlogopite), and optionally coated with titanium oxide (TiO 2 ), iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ) (red, yellow or black), chromium oxide (Cr 2 O 3 ), carmine, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, manganese violet, silica, alumina or mixtures thereof.
  • TiO 2 titanium oxide
  • Fe 2 O 3 iron oxide
  • Cr 2 O 3 chromium oxide
  • carmine Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, manganese violet, silica, alumina or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of lightening agent (s) relative to the total weight of the powdery composition.
  • the pulverulent composition according to the invention comprises one or more encapsulating agent (s).
  • the encapsulating agent typically has a melting point between 40 ° and
  • the encapsulating agent is transparent, so as not to change the white color of the pigment of the powder composition.
  • an encapsulation agent is chosen whose viscosity is 10 cSt at 800 cSt (0.1 cm 2 ⁇ s -1 to 8 cm 2 ⁇ s -1 ), in particular 50 cSt at 200 cSt (0.5 cm 2 .s ⁇ 1 to 2 cm 2 .s ⁇ 1 ) at the preparation temperature of the pulverulent composition (temperature of step a) below) is adapted so that it can be easily introduced into the powdery composition .
  • the encapsulating agents may be hydrophilic or lipophilic.
  • a hydrophilic encapsulation agent will be preferred if the cosmetic composition in which it is desired to introduce the powdery composition is aqueous or is an emulsion.
  • a lipophilic encapsulating agent will be preferred if the powdery composition in which it is desired to introduce the cosmetic composition is oily or is an emulsion.
  • hydrophilic encapsulation agents that may be used, mention may be made of film-forming agents of natural origin of the family of polysaccharides (for example: alginates, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate, chitin, dextran, carrageenan). , chitosan succinamide, galactomannans), wax and polyglycerol esters, or synthetic polymers such as polyethylene glycol, polyacrylic acid, polylactic acid, polyvinylalcohol, acrylamide, isopropylacrylamide or copolymers thereof.
  • polysaccharides for example: alginates, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate, chitin, dextran, carrageenan.
  • chitosan succinamide, galactomannans chitosan succinamide, galactomannans
  • wax and polyglycerol esters or synthetic polymers such as polyethylene glycol, polyacrylic acid, polylactic acid, polyvinylalcohol, acryl
  • lipophilic encapsulation agents that can be used, mention may be made of natural waxes of plant origin (for example candelilla waxes, carnauba), of animal origin (for example beeswax), of mineral origin or of origin. synthetic (eg polyethylene, polypropylene, ..).
  • plant origin for example candelilla waxes, carnauba
  • animal origin for example beeswax
  • mineral origin for example beeswax
  • synthetic eg polyethylene, polypropylene, ..
  • polyethylene glycol polyethylene glycol copolymer, or natural or synthetic wax.
  • Polyethylene glycol especially with a molecular weight of 500 to 9000 g. mol "1 , in particular between 3000 and 4000 g mol -1 , is a particularly preferred encapsulating agent.
  • the composition comprises from 1% to 5% by weight of encapsulating agent relative to the total weight of the powder composition.
  • the pulverulent composition may comprise an additive chosen from among the vitamin
  • vitamin E a ginseng extract, an extract of red and brown algae and their mixtures.
  • vitamin B3 makes it possible to control the color of the powdery composition
  • - Brown algae extract has gelling, stabilizing and thickening properties.
  • the composition comprises from 0% to 5% by weight of said additive relative to the total weight of the pulverulent composition.
  • the pulverulent composition may comprise water, especially when the encapsulating agent is hydrophilic.
  • the proportion of water must be sufficiently low for the composition to remain in pulverulent form.
  • the composition comprises from 0% to 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the pulverulent composition.
  • the pulverulent composition consists of:
  • additive selected from vitamin B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, an extract of red and brown algae and mixtures thereof, and / or
  • the invention relates to the process for preparing the pulverulent composition defined above, comprising the step of mixing at least one pigment, at least one encapsulating agent, at least one whitening agent, at least one lightening agent, optionally an additive as defined above and optionally water.
  • the mixture of the components of the powder composition can be implemented by simultaneous or separate mixing of the components.
  • the method comprises the steps of:
  • step c) dispersing the mixture obtained in step a) on the mixture obtained in step b), preferably at a temperature of room temperature (about 20 ' ⁇ ) at a temperature of temperature below the degradation temperature of each of the components (whitening agent, lightening agent, additive, pigment).
  • the encapsulating agent is hydrophilic and the powder composition comprises water
  • the water is usually mixed with the encapsulating agent and the whitening agent in step a).
  • no organic solvent is used in the preparation process according to the invention.
  • Pigments, whitening agents, lightening agents, encapsulants and additives are generally commercially available.
  • the invention also relates to the pulverulent compositions obtainable by this process.
  • the invention relates to the use of the powder composition for introduction into a cosmetic composition (or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition), as well as a cosmetic composition comprising the powdery composition.
  • the pulverulent composition according to the invention corresponds to an "all-in-one product" adapted to be introduced into a cosmetic composition.
  • the use of the pulverulent composition is advantageous economically since it is possible to introduce in a single step the pigment, the bleaching agent, the lightening agent and the encapsulating agent, which leads to a saving of time and can minimize losses of compounds during production.
  • the cosmetic composition typically comprises the powdery composition as defined above and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.
  • the weight proportion of the powder composition relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition is, for example, from 1 to 3%.
  • the cosmetic composition may be in the form of a monophasic or biphasic lotion, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, a hydrophilic or lipophilic gel or a powder.
  • the cosmetic composition may for example be a hair product (a hair coloring product, a shampoo, a conditioner, etc.), a make-up product (mascara, a foundation, a liner ("eyeliner" in English). ), eyeshadow or cheek, lipstick, lip gloss, nail polish) or a facial or body care product.
  • it is a makeup or care product for topical application.
  • Example 1 Preparation of a pulverulent composition according to the invention 1 kg of distilled water and 2 kg of polyethylene glycol (Carbowax Sentry PEG 1450 -
  • Dow Chemicals (encapsulating agent) were introduced into a beaker and mixed at room temperature until a clear solution was obtained.
  • the polyethylene glycol / water mixture was heated to 50 ° C until a clear solution was obtained.
  • Example 2 Use of the powdery composition according to Example 1 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition
  • Example 1 The powdery composition of Example 1 was introduced into two cosmetic compositions with a proportion of 3% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. These had the composition specified in the following Tables 1 and 2 and were prepared as described below.
  • Cosmetic preparation 1 was prepared according to the following method:
  • phase D to the mixture of phases A + B + C -
  • phase E to the mixture of phases A + B + C + D
  • Cosmetic preparation 2 was prepared according to the following process
  • phase D to the mixture of phases A + B + C -
  • phase E to the mixture of phases A + B + C + D
  • the whitening effect of the cosmetic composition was demonstrated by carrying out in vitro tests of its depigmenting potential on a model of human epidermis over a period of 9 days.
  • the method was based on measurement of melanin and tissue staining.
  • the study was carried out on in vitro reconstituted pigmented human epidermis of the MelanoDerm TM type, supplied by MatTek. This model was obtained by co-cultures of melanocytes and human keratinocytes from African-American donors, seeded to obtain a 3D epidermal tissue with characteristics (differentiation and pigmentation) close to human skin.
  • the cosmetic composition containing the powdery composition was applied at a rate of 4-5 mg / cm 2 directly to the surface of the epidermis using an applicator. Before each application, the tissue surface was rinsed with a phosphate buffer solution. The tissues were then incubated at 37 ° C. in an air-C0 2 oven. The test formula was applied on D0, D1, D2, D5, D6, D7, D8. Melanin level and tissue staining were analyzed at the end of treatment (J9). The results obtained with the cosmetic composition containing the powdery composition were compared with those obtained with:
  • This parameter defines the degree of pigmentation of the skin (the lower the ITA °, the more the skin is pigmented) 2) the difference in color ( ⁇ * ) that characterizes the difference in color between two points ( ⁇ * is higher when the skin is dark), calculated according to the formula:
  • the depigmenting activity was calculated according to the formula:
  • AD% [(Melanine moin te - Melanine tra ⁇ ) / Melanine tem oin] * 100 Where you Melanine moin and Melanine tra ⁇ are respectively the concentrations of melanin in the control sample and the sample treated with a composition whitening cosmetic.

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  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The application concerns a powdered composition consisting of at least one pigment, at least one encapsulant, at least one whitening agent, at least one lightening agent, optionally an additive chosen from vitamin B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, a red algae extract, a brown algae extract and the mixtures thereof and optionally water, the method for preparing same and the use thereof in the preparation of a cosmetic composition.

Description

Composition pulvérulente utile pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques blanchissantes  Powdery composition useful for the preparation of cosmetic whitening compositions
La présente invention concerne une composition pulvérulente utile pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques ayant un effet blanchissant. The present invention relates to a powdery composition useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions having a whitening effect.
De nombreuses personnes désirent avoir un teint plus clair, plus lumineux et/ou plus uniforme et utilisent des compositions cosmétiques à cette fin. De préférence, un effet blanchissant est alors recherché non seulement lors de l'application de la composition cosmétique, mais aussi au cours du temps pour que l'effet blanchissant se produise à plus long terme.  Many people wish to have a lighter, brighter and / or more uniform complexion and use cosmetic compositions for this purpose. Preferably, a whitening effect is then sought not only during the application of the cosmetic composition, but also over time for the whitening effect to occur in the longer term.
A cet effet, des agents blanchissants et/ou éclaircissants ont été développés et introduits dans des compositions cosmétiques. Des compositions cosmétiques ayant un effet blanchissant ou éclaircissant sont par exemple décrites dans les demandes EP For this purpose, whitening and / or brightening agents have been developed and introduced into cosmetic compositions. Cosmetic compositions having a whitening or brightening effect are for example described in the EP applications
1 859 835 (composition cosmétique dont l'agent blanchissant est Γα-arbutine), CA 2 351 077 (composition cosmétique dont l'agent blanchissant est l'acide ascorbique), FR1 859 835 (cosmetic composition whose bleaching agent is Γα-arbutin), CA 2 351 077 (cosmetic composition whose bleaching agent is ascorbic acid), FR
2 735 688 077 (composition cosmétique dont l'agent blanchissant est un a-hydroxyacide en association avec un pigment dioxyde de titane) et FR 2 863 889 (composition cosmétique dont l'agent éclaircissant est un azurant optique). 2,735,688,077 (cosmetic composition whose whitening agent is an α-hydroxy acid in combination with a titanium dioxide pigment) and FR 2,863,889 (cosmetic composition whose brightening agent is an optical brightener).
Les agents blanchissants sont souvent peu stables car ils se dégradent à la chaleur et/ou par oxydation, notamment en milieu aqueux. Le développement de compositions cosmétiques ou de compositions utiles pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques, et dont l'agent blanchissant est stabilisé, est donc nécessaire.  Bleaching agents are often not very stable because they degrade by heat and / or by oxidation, especially in an aqueous medium. The development of cosmetic compositions or compositions useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions, and the whitening agent of which is stabilized, is therefore necessary.
Par ailleurs, le procédé de préparation de composition cosmétique comprend typiquement le mélange des différents constituants de la composition cosmétique. Ce procédé est facilité lorsque des produits « tout-en-un» comprenant plusieurs des constituants de la composition cosmétique peuvent être utilisés à la place des constituants pris isolément. Ainsi, le procédé comprend moins d'étapes, fait intervenir moins de produits de départ, et les pertes de constituants parfois onéreux qui peuvent se produire lors de l'introduction séparée de chaque constituant peuvent être minimisées.  Moreover, the method for preparing a cosmetic composition typically comprises mixing the various constituents of the cosmetic composition. This method is facilitated when "all-in-one" products comprising several of the constituents of the cosmetic composition can be used in place of the constituents taken alone. Thus, the process comprises fewer steps, involves fewer starting materials, and the sometimes expensive component losses that may occur during the separate introduction of each component can be minimized.
II existe donc un besoin de fournir des produits « tout-en-un» comprenant un agent blanchissant utiles pour la préparation de compositions cosmétiques ayant un effet blanchissant et :  There is therefore a need to provide "all-in-one" products comprising a whitening agent useful for the preparation of cosmetic compositions having a whitening effect and:
- dont l'effet blanchissant est observable lors de l'application de la composition cosmétique et est prolongé dans le temps après son application, et  whose whitening effect is observable during the application of the cosmetic composition and is prolonged in time after its application, and
- dont l'agent blanchissant se dégrade moins que s'il était introduit de façon isolée lors du procédé de préparation de la composition cosmétique. [Composition pulvérulente] - The whitening agent degrades less than if it was introduced in isolation during the process for preparing the cosmetic composition. [Pulverulent composition]
A cet effet, selon un premier objet, l'invention concerne une composition pulvérulente consistant en : For this purpose, according to a first object, the invention relates to a powdery composition consisting of:
- au moins un pigment, at least one pigment,
- au moins un agent d'encapsulation,  at least one encapsulating agent,
- au moins un agent blanchissant,  at least one whitening agent,
- au moins un agent éclaircissant,  at least one lightening agent,
éventuellement un additif choisi parmi la vitamine B3, la vitamine E, un extrait de ginseng, un extrait d'algues rouges, un extrait d'algues brunes et leurs mélanges, et optionally an additive selected from vitamin B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, a red algae extract, a brown algae extract and mixtures thereof, and
- éventuellement de l'eau. - possibly water.
Cette composition pulvérulente est adaptée pour être introduite dans une composition cosmétique. Les inventeurs ont découvert qu'une composition cosmétique comprenant cette composition pulvérulente a un effet blanchissant non seulement lors de l'application de la composition cosmétique sur la peau, mais aussi un effet blanchissant prolongé dans le temps lorsque la composition cosmétique est appliquée quotidiennement, notamment sur une durée d'au moins 9 jours. This powdery composition is adapted to be introduced into a cosmetic composition. The inventors have discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising this powdery composition has a whitening effect not only during the application of the cosmetic composition to the skin, but also a whitening effect prolonged in time when the cosmetic composition is applied daily, in particular over a period of at least 9 days.
Sans vouloir être lié à des théories particulières, cet effet prolongé dans le temps serait dû à la libération de l'agent blanchissant et/ou de l'agent éclaircissant de la composition pulvérulente, cette libération pouvant notamment avoir lieu lors de la préparation de la composition cosmétique, ou lors de l'application de la composition cosmétique.  Without wishing to be bound to particular theories, this prolonged effect over time would be due to the release of the whitening agent and / or the lightening agent from the pulverulent composition, this release being able especially to take place during the preparation of the cosmetic composition, or during the application of the cosmetic composition.
Par ailleurs, comme expliqué ci-dessus, l'utilisation d'agents blanchissants est limitée par le fait que ces agents sont souvent peu stables. Avantageusement, l'agent blanchissant et/ou l'agent éclaircissant de la composition pulvérulente se dégradent moins que les mêmes agents blanchissants et/ou agents éclaircissants libres, du fait qu'ils sont encapsulés dans l'agent d'encapsulation de la composition pulvérulente. On peut notamment stocker la composition pulvérulente avant qu'elle ne soit introduite dans une composition cosmétique sans que ces agents ne se dégradent.  Moreover, as explained above, the use of whitening agents is limited by the fact that these agents are often unstable. Advantageously, the whitening agent and / or the lightening agent of the pulverulent composition degrade less than the same whitening agents and / or free lightening agents, because they are encapsulated in the encapsulating agent of the powdery composition. . In particular, the pulverulent composition can be stored before it is introduced into a cosmetic composition without these agents being degraded.
• Le pigment • The pigment
La composition pulvérulente comprend un ou plusieurs pigments. The powder composition comprises one or more pigments.
Le(s) pigment(s) présent(s) dans la composition pulvérulente selon l'invention peut(peuvent indépendamment) être un pigment organique, inorganique ou de nature hybride organique-inorganique ou une charge minérale. Il s'agit typiquement de pigments inorganiques. The pigment (s) present in the pulverulent composition according to the invention can (independently) be an organic, inorganic or organic pigment. organic-inorganic hybrid or mineral filler. These are typically inorganic pigments.
Le pigment inorganique peut par exemple être choisi parmi le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, l'oxyde d'aluminium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome, le bleu ferrique, et leurs mélanges. Les pigments peuvent être utilisés tels quels ou éventuellement traités en surface, sous forme de pigments traités en surface ou de nanopigments traités en surface.  The inorganic pigment may, for example, be chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, aluminum oxide, as well as iron or chromium oxides, and manganese violet. ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. The pigments can be used as such or optionally surface-treated, in the form of surface-treated pigments or nanopigments surface-treated.
Les pigments inorganiques préférés sont le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc, le dioxyde de zirconium, l'oxyde d'aluminium et leurs mélanges, et de préférence le dioxyde de titane ou l'oxyde de zinc et leurs mélanges.  The preferred inorganic pigments are titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide, aluminum oxide and mixtures thereof, and preferably titanium dioxide or zinc oxide and mixtures thereof.
Le pigment organique peut par exemple être choisi parmi le noir de carbone, tel que le D&C black n °2, les pigments organiques rouges, tel que les D&C Red n °6, n °7, n °21 , n °27, n °28, n °30, n °33, n °36, n °40, et le Carmin de cochenille, les pigments organiques bleus, tels que le phtalocyanine de cuivre et la laque de FD&C Blue n °1 , et les pigments organiques jaunes, tel que la laque de D&C Yellow n °10, FD&C Yellow n °5 et 6.  The organic pigment may for example be selected from carbon black, such as D & C black No. 2, red organic pigments, such as D & C Red No. 6, No. 7, No. 21, No. 27, No. ° 28, No. 30, No. 33, No. 36, No. 40, and Cochineal Carmine, blue organic pigments, such as copper phthalocyanine and FD & C Blue No. 1 lacquer, and organic pigments yellow, such as D & C Yellow No. 10, FD & C Yellow No. 5 and 6.
A titre de charges minérales adaptées à la mise en œuvre de l'invention, on peut notamment citer le talc, le kaolin, l'alumine ou la silice. Généralement, la composition comprend de 80 % à 97 % en poids de pigment(s) par rapport au poids total de la composition pulvérulente.  As mineral fillers suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned talc, kaolin, alumina or silica. Generally, the composition comprises from 80% to 97% by weight of pigment (s) relative to the total weight of the powder composition.
• Agent blanchissant La composition pulvérulente selon l'invention comprend un ou plusieurs agents blanchissants. Bleaching agent The pulverulent composition according to the invention comprises one or more bleaching agents.
Un agent blanchissant est un composé chimique, synthétique ou naturel, qui permet d'avoir un effet dépigmentant de la peau.  A whitening agent is a chemical compound, synthetic or natural, which makes it possible to have a depigmenting effect on the skin.
Deux méthodes sont usuellement utilisées pour mettre en évidence cet effet dépigmentant : soit en quantifiant le taux de mélanine dans les épidermes, soit en utilisant la méthode CIE Lab L*a*b* pour évaluer la couleur des épidermes (le paramètre L* indiquant la clarté et les paramètres a* et b* indiquant le sens des couleurs), par exemple en appliquant les agents blanchissants sur des épidermes humains pigmentés reconstitués in vitro de type MelanoDerm® (MatTek). A partir de ces valeurs, il est possible de calculer l'écart de couleur (ΔΕ*) qui caractérise la différence de couleur entre deux points (ΔΕ* est d'autant plus élevé que la peau est foncée), calculé selon la formule : Two methods are usually used to highlight this depigmenting effect: either by quantifying the level of melanin in the epidermis, or by using the CIE Lab L * a * b * method to evaluate the color of the epidermis (the L * parameter indicating the clarity and the parameters a * and b * indicating the direction of the colors), for example by applying the bleaching agents on reconstituted pigmented human skin in vitro of the MelanoDerm® (MatTek) type. From these values, it is possible to calculate the color difference (ΔΕ * ) that characterizes the difference in color between two points (ΔΕ * is higher when the skin is dark), calculated according to the formula:
Ces agents blanchissants peuvent agir selon plusieurs types de mécanismes :These whitening agents can act according to several types of mechanisms:
- en bloquant la voie de synthèse de la mélanine à un niveau donné (inhibition par compétition enzymatique, blocage des sites actifs, suppression de la synthèse ou de la maturation de la tyrosinase) by blocking the synthesis pathway of melanin at a given level (inhibition by enzymatic competition, blocking of active sites, suppression of synthesis or maturation of tyrosinase)
- en bloquant le transfert des mélanosomes, et/ou  by blocking the transfer of melanosomes, and / or
- en détruisant les mélanocytes (mécanisme plus difficile à contrôler).  - by destroying the melanocytes (mechanism more difficult to control).
En général, les agents blanchissant agissent par une combinaison de plusieurs de ces mécanismes.  In general, whitening agents act by a combination of several of these mechanisms.
L'(es) agent(s) blanchissant(s) peut(peuvent indépendamment) être choisi(s) parmi l'acide kojique, Γα-arbutine, l'hydroquinone, la vitamine C ou un de ses sels, l'ascorbyl glucoside, un extrait de réglisse, l'acide azélaïque, les a-hydroxyacides (notamment l'acide lactique ou l'acide glycolique), l'aloésine, l'acide gallique et ses dérivés (notamment les esters de l'acide gallique et d'hydroflavanols, tels que le epicatechin-3-O-gallate (ECG), le gallocatechin-3-O-gallate (GCG), le epigallocatechin-3- O-gallate (EGCG), et le epigallocatechin (EGC)), le glutathione, l'acide glycolique, l'hexyl resorcinol, l'hydroxystylbène et ses dérivés (notamment le resveratrol (3,4', 5 trihydroxystilbene) et ses isomères (l'oxyresveratrol et le methoxyresveratol)). The whitening agent (s) may (may independently) be chosen from kojic acid, Γα-arbutin, hydroquinone, vitamin C or a salt thereof, ascorbyl glucoside , a licorice extract, azelaic acid, α-hydroxy acids (especially lactic acid or glycolic acid), aloesin, gallic acid and its derivatives (in particular the esters of gallic acid and hydroflavanols, such as epicatechin-3-O-gallate (ECG), gallocatechin-3-O-gallate (GCG), epigallocatechin-3-O-gallate (EGCG), and epigallocatechin (EGC)), glutathione, glycolic acid, hexyl resorcinol, hydroxystylbene and its derivatives (especially resveratrol (3,4 ', 5 trihydroxystilbene) and its isomers (oxyresveratrol and methoxyresveratol)).
Les agents blanchissants préférés sont Γα-arbutine et l'extrait de réglisse. On choisit typiquement un extrait de réglisse dont la concentration en acide glycyrrhizique est supérieure ou égale à 0,15%, par exemple celui commercialisé par Alban Muller International sous le nom commercial Botanical reglisse PS. The preferred bleaching agents are Γα-arbutin and licorice extract. A licorice extract whose glycyrrhizic acid concentration is greater than or equal to 0.15% is typically chosen, for example that marketed by Alban Muller International under the trade name Botanical Reglisse PS.
Généralement, la composition comprend de 1 % à 5 % en poids d'agent(s) blanchissant(s) par rapport au poids total de la composition pulvérulente. Generally, the composition comprises from 1% to 5% by weight of whitening agent (s) relative to the total weight of the powdery composition.
• Agent éclaircissant • Brightening agent
La composition pulvérulente selon l'invention comprend un ou plusieurs agents éclaircissants. Un agent éclaircissant permet d'intensifier l'éclat et d'aviver les teintes des compositions cosmétiques les comprenant lors l'application sur la peau. The pulverulent composition according to the invention comprises one or more lightening agents. A lightening agent makes it possible to intensify the brightness and to brighten the hues of the cosmetic compositions comprising them when applied to the skin.
L'effet éclaircissant peut notamment être mesuré avec un chromatomètre, en particulier en utilisant en utilisant la méthode CIE Lab L*a*b*, par exemple en appliquant les agents éclaircissants sur des épidermes humains pigmentés reconstitués in vitro de type MelanoDerm® (MatTek). A partir de ces valeurs, il est possible de calculer l'écart de couleur (ΔΕ*) comme explicité ci-dessus. The lightening effect can in particular be measured with a chromatometer, in particular by using the CIE Lab L * a * b * method , for example by applying the lightening agents to reconstituted pigmented human skin in vitro of the MelanoDerm® type (MatTek ). From these values, it is possible to calculate the color difference (ΔΕ * ) as explained above.
L'(es) agent(s) éclaircissant(s) peut(peuvent indépendamment) être choisi(s) parmi les azurant optiques et les nacres (telles que les borosilicates ou le mica, naturel ou synthétique (tel que le fluorphlogopite synthétique), et, ledit mica étant éventuellement recouvert d'oxyde de titane (Ti02), d'oxyde de fer (Fe203) (rouge, jaune ou noir), d'oxyde de chrome (Cr203), de carmin, de bleu de Prusse, de bleu d'outremer, de violet de manganèse ou de leurs mélanges), de silice, d'alumine et leurs mélanges). The lightening agent (s) may (may independently) be chosen from optical brighteners and nacres (such as borosilicates or mica, natural or synthetic (such as synthetic fluorphlogopite), and said mica optionally being coated with titanium oxide (TiO 2 ), iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ) (red, yellow or black), chromium oxide (Cr 2 O 3 ), carmine , Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, manganese violet or mixtures thereof), silica, alumina and mixtures thereof).
Les azurants optiques sont des agents éclaircissants par voie optique, et sont des composés chimiques dotés de propriétés de fluorescence, qui absorbent dans l'ultraviolet (absorption maximale à une longueur d'onde inférieure à 400 nm) et réémettent de l'énergie par fluorescence dans le domaine de longueur d'onde compris entre 380 nm et 830 nm. Une émission d'énergie comprise entre 400 nm et 480 nm résulte en une émission dans le bleu du domaine visible, ce qui contribue, lorsque cette émission a lieu sur la peau, à la blanchir visuellement. Optical brighteners are optically brightening agents, and are chemical compounds with fluorescent properties, which absorb in the ultraviolet (maximum absorption at a wavelength below 400 nm) and re-emit fluorescence energy. in the wavelength range between 380 nm and 830 nm. An energy emission between 400 nm and 480 nm results in an emission in the blue of the visible range, which contributes, when this emission takes place on the skin, to bleach it visually.
Parmi les azurants optiques, on peut citer :  Among the brighteners optical, we can mention:
1 ) des bis(benzoxazol-2-yl) de formule (I) : 1) bis (benzoxazol-2-yl) of formula (I):
dans laquelle A1 est un groupe aromatique, hétérocyclique ou alkyle, et A2 est un atome d'hydrogène ou un groupe alkylène; wherein A 1 is an aromatic, heterocyclic or alkyl group, and A 2 is a hydrogen atom or an alkylene group;
2) des coumarines de formule (II) : 2) coumarines of formula (II):
dans laquelle A3 est un groupe hétérocyclique; wherein A 3 is a heterocyclic group;
3) des bis(styryl)biphényle de formule (III) 3) bis (styryl) biphenyl of formula (III)
dans laquelle A4, A5, A6, A7, B et B2 représentent indépendamment un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe -S03Na ou un groupe alkyle; et wherein A 4 , A 5 , A 6 , A 7 , B and B 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a -SO 3 Na group or an alkyl group; and
4) des dérivés de triazine-stilbène de formule (IV) : dans laquelle A8, A9, A12 et A13 représentent indépendamment un atome d'hydrogène, un groupe -S03Na ou un groupe phénylamino, dialkylamino ou morpholino, et A10 et A11 représentent indépendamment un atome d'hydrogène ou -S03Na. 4) triazine-stilbene derivatives of formula (IV): wherein A 8 , A 9 , A 12 and A 13 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a -SO 3 Na group or a phenylamino, dialkylamino or morpholino group, and A 10 and A 11 independently represent a hydrogen atom or -S0 3 Na.
Dans les formules (I) à (IV):  In formulas (I) to (IV):
- les groupes aromatiques utilisés peuvent être des groupes comportant un ou plusieurs noyaux benzéniques, par exemple des groupes phényle, biphényle, phényle substitués ou des groupes aromatiques formés à partir d'hydrocarbures aromatiques polycycliques, comme les groupes naphtyle, phénanthryle, anthracényle, fluoranthényle.  the aromatic groups used may be groups comprising one or more benzene rings, for example phenyl, biphenyl or substituted phenyl groups or aromatic groups formed from polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, such as naphthyl, phenanthryl, anthracenyl or fluoranthenyl groups.
- les groupes hétérocycliques sont des groupes cycliques saturés, insaturés ou aromatiques comportant des atomes de carbone, notamment 3 à 10, et un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes (notamment 1 , 2 ou 3) tels que O, N et S. A titre d'exemple de groupes hétérocycliques, on peut citer les groupes thiényle, furyle, pyrannyle, isobenzofurannyle, isobenzothiényle, pyrrolyle, pyridyle, pyrazolyle.  the heterocyclic groups are saturated, unsaturated or aromatic cyclic groups containing carbon atoms, especially 3 to 10, and one or more heteroatoms (in particular 1, 2 or 3) such as O, N and S. For example heterocyclic groups, there may be mentioned thienyl, furyl, pyrannyl, isobenzofuranyl, isobenzothienyl, pyrrolyl, pyridyl, pyrazolyl.
- les groupes alkyle sont des groupes hydrocarbonés monovalents linéaires ou ramifiés, ayant de préférence de 1 à 16 atomes de carbone, par exemple le groupe tert-butyle. the alkyl groups are linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon groups, preferably having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, for example the tert-butyl group.
- les groupes alkylène sont des groupes hydrocarbonés divalents linéaires ou ramifiés, ayant de préférence de 1 à 16 atomes de carbone, par exemple le méthylène ou l'éthylène. the alkylene groups are linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon groups preferably having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms, for example methylene or ethylene.
Les azurants optiques préférés sont le 4,4'-bis[(4,6-dianilino-1 ,3,5-triazin-2- yl)amino] stilbène2,2'-disulfonate de sodium, le 2,5-thiophénedi-ylbis(5-terbutyl-1 ,3 benzoxazole), le di-styryl-20 4,4'-biphényldisulfonate de sodium, et le distrylbipheniyl disulfonate de disodium. De préférence, l'agent éclaircissant est du mica, naturel ou synthétique (tel que le fluorphlogopite synthétique), et éventuellement recouvert d'oxyde de titane (Ti02), d'oxyde de fer (Fe203) (rouge, jaune ou noir), d'oxyde de chrome (Cr203), de carmin, de bleu de Prusse, de bleu d'outremer, de violet de manganèse, de silice, d'alumine ou de leurs mélanges. The preferred optical brighteners are sodium 4,4'-bis [(4,6-dianilino-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl) amino] stilbene2,2'-disulfonate, 2,5-thiophenedi- ylbis (5-tert-butyl-1,3-benzoxazole), sodium di-styryl-4,4'-biphenyldisulfonate, and disodium distrylbiphenyl disulfonate. Preferably, the lightening agent is mica, natural or synthetic (such as synthetic fluorphlogopite), and optionally coated with titanium oxide (TiO 2 ), iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ) (red, yellow or black), chromium oxide (Cr 2 O 3 ), carmine, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, manganese violet, silica, alumina or mixtures thereof.
Généralement, la composition comprend de 1 % à 15 % en poids d'agent(s) éclaircissant(s) par rapport au poids total de la composition pulvérulente. Generally, the composition comprises from 1% to 15% by weight of lightening agent (s) relative to the total weight of the powdery composition.
• Agent d'encapsulation • Encapsulation agent
La composition pulvérulente selon l'invention comprend un ou plusieurs agent(s) d'encapsulation. The pulverulent composition according to the invention comprises one or more encapsulating agent (s).
L'agent d'encapsulation a typiquement un point de fusion compris entre 40 ° et The encapsulating agent typically has a melting point between 40 ° and
50 °C. 50 ° C.
Généralement, l'agent d'encapsulation est transparent, afin de ne pas modifier la couleur blanche du pigment de la composition pulvérulente.  Generally, the encapsulating agent is transparent, so as not to change the white color of the pigment of the powder composition.
De préférence, on choisi un agent d'encapsulation dont la viscosité est de 10 cSt à 800 cSt (0,1 cm2.s~1 à 8 cm2.s~1), notamment 50 cSt à 200 cSt (0,5 cm2.s~1 à 2 cm2.s~1) à la température de préparation de la composition pulvérulente (température de l'étape a) ci- dessous) est adaptée pour qu'il puisse être introduit facilement dans la composition pulvérulente. Les agents d'encapsulation peuvent être hydrophiles ou lipophiles. Un agent d'encapsulation hydrophile sera préféré si la composition cosmétique dans laquelle on souhaite introduire la composition pulvérulente est aqueuse ou est une émulsion. Un agent d'encapsulation lipophile sera préféré si la composition pulvérulente dans laquelle on souhaite introduire la composition cosmétique est huileuse ou est une émulsion. Preferably, an encapsulation agent is chosen whose viscosity is 10 cSt at 800 cSt (0.1 cm 2 · s -1 to 8 cm 2 · s -1 ), in particular 50 cSt at 200 cSt (0.5 cm 2 .s ~ 1 to 2 cm 2 .s ~ 1 ) at the preparation temperature of the pulverulent composition (temperature of step a) below) is adapted so that it can be easily introduced into the powdery composition . The encapsulating agents may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. A hydrophilic encapsulation agent will be preferred if the cosmetic composition in which it is desired to introduce the powdery composition is aqueous or is an emulsion. A lipophilic encapsulating agent will be preferred if the powdery composition in which it is desired to introduce the cosmetic composition is oily or is an emulsion.
Parmi les agents d'encapsulation hydrophiles utilisables, on peut citer les agents filmogènes d'origine naturelle de la famille des polysaccharides (à titre d'exemple : les alginates, le pullulane, le hyaluronate de sodium, la chitine, le dextrane, le carraghénane, le chitosane succinamide, les galactomannanes), les esters de cires et de polyglycérol, ou les polymères synthétiques comme le polyéthylène glycol, l'acide polyacrylique, l'acide polylactique, le polyvinylalcohol, l'acrylamide, l'isopropylacrylamide ou leurs copolymères. Parmi les agents d'encapsulation lipophiles utilisables, on peut citer les cires naturelles d'origine végétale (par exemple cires de candellila, carnauba), d'origine animale (par exemple cire d'abeille), d'origine minérale ou d'origine synthétique (par exemple : polyéthylène, polypropylène,..). Among the hydrophilic encapsulation agents that may be used, mention may be made of film-forming agents of natural origin of the family of polysaccharides (for example: alginates, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate, chitin, dextran, carrageenan). , chitosan succinamide, galactomannans), wax and polyglycerol esters, or synthetic polymers such as polyethylene glycol, polyacrylic acid, polylactic acid, polyvinylalcohol, acrylamide, isopropylacrylamide or copolymers thereof. Among the lipophilic encapsulation agents that can be used, mention may be made of natural waxes of plant origin (for example candelilla waxes, carnauba), of animal origin (for example beeswax), of mineral origin or of origin. synthetic (eg polyethylene, polypropylene, ..).
Sont préférés un polyéthylène glycol, un copolymère de polyéthylène glycol, ou une cire naturelle ou synthétique. Le polyéthylène glycol, notamment de masse moléculaire de 500 à 9000 g. mol"1 , en particulier entre 3000 et 4000 g. mol"1 , est un agent d'encapsulation particulièrement préféré. Généralement, la composition comprend de 1 % à 5 % en poids d'agent d'encapsulation par rapport au poids total de la composition pulvérulente. Preferred are polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol copolymer, or natural or synthetic wax. Polyethylene glycol, especially with a molecular weight of 500 to 9000 g. mol "1 , in particular between 3000 and 4000 g mol -1 , is a particularly preferred encapsulating agent. Generally, the composition comprises from 1% to 5% by weight of encapsulating agent relative to the total weight of the powder composition.
• Autre additif La composition pulvérulente peut comprendre un additif choisi parmi la vitamineOther additive The pulverulent composition may comprise an additive chosen from among the vitamin
B3, la vitamine E, un extrait de ginseng, un extrait d'algues rouges et brunes et leurs mélanges. B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, an extract of red and brown algae and their mixtures.
Ces additifs ont l'avantage de conférer des propriétés additionnelles à la composition pulvérulente, et donc à la composition cosmétique dans laquelle elle sera introduite :  These additives have the advantage of conferring additional properties on the pulverulent composition, and therefore on the cosmetic composition in which it will be introduced:
- la vitamine B3 permet de contrôler la couleur de la composition pulvérulente,  vitamin B3 makes it possible to control the color of the powdery composition,
- la vitamine E a des propriétés antioxydantes,  - vitamin E has antioxidant properties,
- l'extrait de ginseng stimule la production de collagène, a un effet réparateur et cicatrisant sur la peau et protège la peau contre le vieillissement prématuré,  - Ginseng extract stimulates the production of collagen, has a repairing and healing effect on the skin and protects the skin against premature aging,
- l'extrait d'algues rouges protège la peau contre le vieillissement prématuré, - red algae extract protects the skin against premature aging,
- l'extrait d'algues brunes a des propriétés gélifiantes, stabilisantes et épaississantes.  - Brown algae extract has gelling, stabilizing and thickening properties.
Généralement, la composition comprend de 0 % à 5% en poids dudit additif par rapport au poids total de la composition pulvérulente. Generally, the composition comprises from 0% to 5% by weight of said additive relative to the total weight of the pulverulent composition.
• Eau • Water
La composition pulvérulente peut comprendre de l'eau, notamment lorsque l'agent d'encapsulation est hydrophile. La proportion d'eau doit être suffisamment faible pour que la composition reste sous forme pulvérulente. Généralement, la composition comprend de 0 % à 5 % en poids d'eau par rapport au poids total de la composition pulvérulente. The pulverulent composition may comprise water, especially when the encapsulating agent is hydrophilic. The proportion of water must be sufficiently low for the composition to remain in pulverulent form. Generally, the composition comprises from 0% to 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the pulverulent composition.
• Proportions des composants • Proportions of components
Selon un mode de réalisation, la composition pulvérulente est constituée de :According to one embodiment, the pulverulent composition consists of:
- 80 à 97 % massique de pigment(s), et/ou - 80 to 97% by weight of pigment (s), and / or
1 à 5 % massique d'agent(s) d'encapsulation, et/ou  1 to 5% by weight of encapsulating agent (s), and / or
1 à 5 % massique d'agent(s) blanchissant, et/ou  1 to 5% by weight of whitening agent (s), and / or
1 à 15 % massique d'agent(s) éclaircissant, et/ou  1 to 15% by weight of lightening agent (s), and / or
- 0 à 5 % massique d'additif(s) choisi parmi la vitamine B3, la vitamine E, un extrait de ginseng, un extrait d'algues rouges et brunes et leurs mélanges, et/ou  0 to 5% by weight of additive (s) selected from vitamin B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, an extract of red and brown algae and mixtures thereof, and / or
- 0 à 5 % massique d'eau.  - 0 to 5% by weight of water.
[Procédé de préparation de la composition pulvérulente] [Process for the preparation of the pulverulent composition]
Selon un deuxième objet, l'invention concerne le procédé de préparation de la composition pulvérulente définie ci-dessus, comprenant l'étape de mélange d'au moins un pigment, d'au moins un agent d'encapsulation, d'au moins un agent blanchissant, d'au moins un agent éclaircissant, éventuellement d'un additif tel que défini ci-dessus et éventuellement d'eau. According to a second subject, the invention relates to the process for preparing the pulverulent composition defined above, comprising the step of mixing at least one pigment, at least one encapsulating agent, at least one whitening agent, at least one lightening agent, optionally an additive as defined above and optionally water.
Le mélange des composants de la composition pulvérulente peut être mise en œuvre par mélange simultané ou séparé des composants. The mixture of the components of the powder composition can be implemented by simultaneous or separate mixing of the components.
Typiquement, le procédé comprend les étapes de :  Typically, the method comprises the steps of:
a) mélange d'au moins un agent d'encapsulation et d'au moins un agent blanchissant, de préférence à une température de la température ambiante (environ 20 'Ό) à une température inférieure à la température de dégradation de l'(des) agent(s) blanchissant(s), a) mixing at least one encapsulating agent and at least one whitening agent, preferably at a temperature of room temperature (about 20%) at a temperature below the degradation temperature of the ) whitening agent (s),
b) mélange d'au moins un pigment et d'au moins un agent éclaircissant, de préférence à une température de la température ambiante (environ 20 °C) à une température inférieure à la température de dégradation de l'(des) agent(s) éclaircissant(s) et à la température de dégradation du(des) pigment(s), b) mixing at least one pigment and at least one lightening agent, preferably at a temperature of room temperature (about 20 ° C) at a temperature below the degradation temperature of the agent (s) ( s) lightening (s) and at the degradation temperature of the pigment (s),
c) dispersion du mélange obtenu à l'étape a) sur le mélange obtenu à l'étape b), de préférence à une température de la température ambiante (environ 20 'Ό) à une température inférieure à la température de dégradation de chacun des composants (agent blanchissant, agent éclaircissant, additif, pigment). c) dispersing the mixture obtained in step a) on the mixture obtained in step b), preferably at a temperature of room temperature (about 20 'Ό) at a temperature of temperature below the degradation temperature of each of the components (whitening agent, lightening agent, additive, pigment).
Lorsque l'agent d'encapsulation est hydrophile et que la composition pulvérulente comprend de l'eau, l'eau est généralement mélangée avec l'agent d'encapsulation et l'agent blanchissant lors de l'étape a).  When the encapsulating agent is hydrophilic and the powder composition comprises water, the water is usually mixed with the encapsulating agent and the whitening agent in step a).
De préférence, aucun solvant organique n'est utilisé dans le procédé de préparation selon l'invention. Les pigments, agents blanchissant, agents éclaircissant, agents d'encapsulation et additifs sont généralement disponibles commercialement. Preferably, no organic solvent is used in the preparation process according to the invention. Pigments, whitening agents, lightening agents, encapsulants and additives are generally commercially available.
L'invention concerne également les compositions pulvérulentes susceptibles d'être obtenues par ce procédé. The invention also relates to the pulverulent compositions obtainable by this process.
[Utilisation cosmétique de la composition pulvérulente] [Cosmetic use of the powdery composition]
Selon un troisième objet, l'invention concerne l'utilisation de la composition pulvérulente pour une introduction dans une composition cosmétique (ou pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique), ainsi qu'une composition cosmétique comprenant la composition pulvérulente. According to a third subject, the invention relates to the use of the powder composition for introduction into a cosmetic composition (or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition), as well as a cosmetic composition comprising the powdery composition.
La composition pulvérulente selon l'invention correspond à un « produit tout-en- un » adapté pour être introduit dans une composition cosmétique. L'utilisation de la composition pulvérulente est avantageuse économiquement puisqu'il est possible d'introduire en une seule étape le pigment, l'agent blanchissant, l'agent éclaircissant et l'agent d'encapsulation, ce qui conduit à un gain de temps et peut minimiser les pertes de composés en cours de production.  The pulverulent composition according to the invention corresponds to an "all-in-one product" adapted to be introduced into a cosmetic composition. The use of the pulverulent composition is advantageous economically since it is possible to introduce in a single step the pigment, the bleaching agent, the lightening agent and the encapsulating agent, which leads to a saving of time and can minimize losses of compounds during production.
La composition cosmétique comprend typiquement la composition pulvérulente telle que définie ci-dessus et au moins un excipient cosmétiquement acceptable. La proportion massique de composition pulvérulente par rapport au poids de la composition cosmétique est par exemple de 1 à 3%. The cosmetic composition typically comprises the powdery composition as defined above and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. The weight proportion of the powder composition relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition is, for example, from 1 to 3%.
La composition cosmétique peut se présenter sous forme de lotion monophasique ou biphasique, d'émulsion eau dans l'huile ou huile dans l'eau, de gel hydrophile ou lipophile ou de poudre. La composition cosmétique peut par exemple être un produit capillaire (un produit de coloration capillaire, du shampooing, du conditionneur...), un produit de maquillage (du mascara, du fond de teint, un ligneur (« eye-liner » en anglais), un fard à paupière ou à joue, un rouge à lèvre, un brillant à lèvres (« lip-gloss » en anglais), du vernis à ongles) ou un produit de soin du visage ou du corps. De préférence, il s'agit d'un produit de maquillage ou de soin pour application topique. The cosmetic composition may be in the form of a monophasic or biphasic lotion, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, a hydrophilic or lipophilic gel or a powder. The cosmetic composition may for example be a hair product (a hair coloring product, a shampoo, a conditioner, etc.), a make-up product (mascara, a foundation, a liner ("eyeliner" in English). ), eyeshadow or cheek, lipstick, lip gloss, nail polish) or a facial or body care product. Preferably, it is a makeup or care product for topical application.
L'invention est illustrée par les exemples qui suivent. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
EXEMPLES EXAMPLES
Exemple 1 : Préparation d'une composition pulvérulente selon l'invention 1 kg d'eau distillée et 2 kg de polyéthylène glycol (Carbowax Sentry PEG 1450 -Example 1 Preparation of a pulverulent composition according to the invention 1 kg of distilled water and 2 kg of polyethylene glycol (Carbowax Sentry PEG 1450 -
Dow Chemicals) (agent d'encapsulation) ont été introduits dans un bêcher et mélangés à température ambiante jusqu'à obtention d'une solution limpide. Selon un procédé alternatif, le mélange de polyéthylène glycol / eau a été chauffé à 50 °C jusqu'à obtention d'une solution limpide. Dow Chemicals) (encapsulating agent) were introduced into a beaker and mixed at room temperature until a clear solution was obtained. According to an alternative method, the polyethylene glycol / water mixture was heated to 50 ° C until a clear solution was obtained.
0,6 kg d'a-arbutine (DSM Pentapharm) (agent blanchissant) et 1 kg d'extrait de réglisse (Botanical reglisse PS - Alban Muller International) (agent blanchissant) ont été ajoutés et le mélange a été agité jusqu'à obtention d'une solution homogène.  0.6 kg of a-arbutin (DSM Pentapharm) (whitening agent) and 1 kg of licorice extract (Botanical reglisse PS - Alban Muller International) (whitening agent) were added and the mixture was stirred until obtaining a homogeneous solution.
Dans un mélangeur ont été introduits 50 kg d'oxyde de titane (Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) (pigment) et 6 kg de mica (Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) (agent éclaircissant) qui ont été mis sous agitation à 45°C. Lorsque le mélange de poudres a atteint 45 °C, on y a ajouté au goutte à goutte le mélange eau distillée / polyéthylène glycol / α-arbutine / extrait de réglisse préparé, puis on a laissé le mélange s'homogénéiser pendant 3 heures à 45 °C.  In a mixer were introduced 50 kg of titanium oxide (Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) (pigment) and 6 kg of mica (Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) (lightening agent) which were stirred at 45 ° C. When the powder mixture reached 45 ° C, the distilled water / polyethylene glycol / α-arbutin / licorice extract mixture was dropwise added thereto, and then the mixture was allowed to homogenize for 3 hours at 45 ° C. ° C.
60 kg de composition pulvérulente ont ainsi été préparés.  60 kg of pulverulent composition were thus prepared.
Exemple 2 : Utilisation de la composition pulvérulente selon l'exemple 1 pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique Example 2 Use of the powdery composition according to Example 1 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition
La composition pulvérulente de l'exemple 1 a été introduite dans deux compositions cosmétiques avec une proportion de 3 % en poids par rapport au poids de la composition cosmétique. Celles-ci avaient la composition précisée dans les tableaux 1 et 2 suivants et ont été préparées comme décrit ci-après. The powdery composition of Example 1 was introduced into two cosmetic compositions with a proportion of 3% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. These had the composition specified in the following Tables 1 and 2 and were prepared as described below.
La préparation cosmétique 1 a été préparée selon le procédé suivant : Cosmetic preparation 1 was prepared according to the following method:
- Chauffer la phase A à 45 °C - Ajouter la phase C à la phase B sous agitation jusqu'à homogénéisation puis chauffer à 85 °C - Heat phase A to 45 ° C - Add phase C to phase B with stirring until homogenization and then heat to 85 ° C
- Ajouter la phase A aux phase B et C  - Add phase A to phase B and C
- A température ambiante, ajouter la phase D au mélange des phases A+B+C - Ajouter la phase E au mélange des phases A+B+C+D  - At room temperature, add phase D to the mixture of phases A + B + C - Add phase E to the mixture of phases A + B + C + D
- Ajouter la phase F au mélange des phases A+B+C+D+E  - Add phase F to the mixture of phases A + B + C + D + E
Tableau 2 : composition de la composition cosmétique 2  Table 2: Composition of the cosmetic composition 2
La préparation cosmétique 2 a été préparée selon le procédé suivant Cosmetic preparation 2 was prepared according to the following process
Chauffer la phase A à 45 °C - Ajouter la phase C à la phase B sous agitation jusqu'à homogénéisation puis chauffer à 85 °C Heat phase A to 45 ° C - Add phase C to phase B with stirring until homogenization and then heat to 85 ° C
- Ajouter la phase A aux phase B et C  - Add phase A to phase B and C
- A température ambiante, ajouter la phase D au mélange des phases A+B+C - Ajouter la phase E au mélange des phases A+B+C+D  - At room temperature, add phase D to the mixture of phases A + B + C - Add phase E to the mixture of phases A + B + C + D
L'effet blanchissant de la composition cosmétique a été mis en évidence en effectuant des tests in vitro de son potentiel dépigmentant sur un modèle d'épiderme humaine sur une durée de 9 jours. La méthode était basée sur la mesure du taux de mélanine et de la coloration des tissus. L'étude a été effectuée sur des épidermes humains pigmentés reconstitués in vitro de type MelanoDerm™, fourni par la société MatTek. Ce modèle a été obtenu par des co-cultures de melanocytes et keratinocytes humains issus de donneurs afro-américains, ensemencés afin d'obtenir un tissu épidermique en 3D avec des caractéristiques (différenciation et pigmentation) proches de la peau humaine. The whitening effect of the cosmetic composition was demonstrated by carrying out in vitro tests of its depigmenting potential on a model of human epidermis over a period of 9 days. The method was based on measurement of melanin and tissue staining. The study was carried out on in vitro reconstituted pigmented human epidermis of the MelanoDerm ™ type, supplied by MatTek. This model was obtained by co-cultures of melanocytes and human keratinocytes from African-American donors, seeded to obtain a 3D epidermal tissue with characteristics (differentiation and pigmentation) close to human skin.
La composition cosmétique contenant la composition pulvérulente a été appliqué, à raison de 4-5 mg/cm2 directement à la surface des épidermes à l'aide d'un applicateur. Avant chaque application la surface des tissus a été rincée avec une solution tampon phosphate. Les tissus ont ensuite été remis à incuber à 37°C, en étuve air-C02. La formule test a été appliquée à J0, J1 , J2, J5, J6, J7, J8. Le taux de mélanine et la coloration des tissus ont été analysés à la fin du traitement (J9). Les résultats obtenus avec la composition cosmétique contenant la composition pulvérulente ont été comparés à ceux obtenus avec : The cosmetic composition containing the powdery composition was applied at a rate of 4-5 mg / cm 2 directly to the surface of the epidermis using an applicator. Before each application, the tissue surface was rinsed with a phosphate buffer solution. The tissues were then incubated at 37 ° C. in an air-C0 2 oven. The test formula was applied on D0, D1, D2, D5, D6, D7, D8. Melanin level and tissue staining were analyzed at the end of treatment (J9). The results obtained with the cosmetic composition containing the powdery composition were compared with those obtained with:
- un épiderme non traité (témoin) - an untreated epidermis (control)
- un épiderme traité avec une crème dépigmentante commerciale (Melanex® Trio, commercialisé par la société Laboratoire Expanscience). an epidermis treated with a commercial depigmenting cream (Melanex® Trio, marketed by the company Laboratoire Expanscience).
La coloration des épidermes a été mesurée à J0 (avant application de l'élément d'essai) et 24 heures après la dernière application à l'aide d'un chromatomètre. En particulier, les paramètres L*, qui indique la clarté, et a* et b*, qui indiquent le sens des couleurs, ont été mesurés. A partir de ces valeurs, il a été possible de calculer : Staining of the epidermis was measured on day 0 (before application of the test element) and 24 hours after the last application using a chromatometer. In particular, the parameters L * , which indicates clarity, and a * and b * , which indicate the direction of the colors, have been measured. From these values, it was possible to calculate:
1 ) l'angle typologique individuel (ITA°) calculé selon la formule :  1) the individual typological angle (ITA °) calculated according to the formula:
ITA°= [Arc tan (L*-50)/b*] x 180/π ITA ° = [Arc tan (L * -50) / b * ] x 180 / π
Ce paramètre définit le degré de pigmentation de la peau (plus ITA° est faible, plus la peau est pigmenté) 2) l'écart de couleur (ΔΕ*) qui caractérise la différence de couleur entre deux points (ΔΕ* est d'autant plus élevé que la peau est foncée), calculé selon la formule : Pour évaluer le taux de mélanine, à la fin des essais, les tissus ont été mis à chauffer pendant 45-60 minutes à 100°C dans une base solubilisante (Solvable™). Après refroidissement des extraits et centrifugation, l'absorbance des solutions a été lue à 405 nm à l'aide d'un lecteur de microplaque. Une gamme étalon constituée de mélanine synthétique a été mise à incuber à 100°C pendant le même laps de temps que les extraits cellulaires, ce qui permet de transformer les densités optiques (D.O.405) en unité mélanineThis parameter defines the degree of pigmentation of the skin (the lower the ITA °, the more the skin is pigmented) 2) the difference in color (ΔΕ * ) that characterizes the difference in color between two points (ΔΕ * is higher when the skin is dark), calculated according to the formula: To evaluate the melanin level, at the end of the tests, the tissues were heated for 45-60 minutes at 100 ° C. in a solubilizing base (Solvable ™). After cooling the extracts and centrifuging, the absorbance of the solutions was read at 405 nm using a microplate reader. A standard range of synthetic melanin was incubated at 100 ° C for the same length of time as the cell extracts, allowing the optical densities (OD 405 ) to be converted to a melanin unit.
(μ9/™ΐ). (Μ9 / ™ ΐ).
Les résultats de coloration de l'épiderme (AITA° et ΔΕ*) et d'activité dépigmentant (A.D. %) sont résumés dans le tableau suivant : The results of epidermal staining (AITA ° and ΔΕ * ) and depigmenting activity (AD%) are summarized in the following table:
L'activité dépigmentante a été calculée selon la formule : The depigmenting activity was calculated according to the formula:
A.D. %= [(Melaninetemoin - Melaninetra^)/Melaninetemoin]* 100 Où Melaninetemoin et Melaninetra^ représentent, respectivement, les concentrations en mélanine dans l'échantillon témoin et dans l'échantillon traité avec une composition cosmétique blanchissante. AD% = [(Melanine moin te - Melanine tra ^) / Melanine tem oin] * 100 Where you Melanine moin and Melanine tra ^ are respectively the concentrations of melanin in the control sample and the sample treated with a composition whitening cosmetic.
Ces résultats mettent en évidence que l'application des différentes compositions cosmétiques conduit à une diminution de la coloration des tissus, à un éclaircissement de la peau ainsi qu'à une réduction du taux de mélanine. La composition pulvérulente de l'exemple 1 permet également d'obtenir une meilleure viabilité tissulaire par rapport à un agent blanchissant commercial. L'acceptabilité cutanée a été évaluée par un test MTT. Pour les deux préparations cosmétiques contenant la composition pulvérulente et les ingrédients introduits séparément, l'effet dépigmentant n'est pas lié à un effet cytotoxique car la viabilité des tissus n'est pas modifiée. En revanche, la préparation Melanex Trio induit une légère baisse (25%) de la réponse MTT des tissus. These results demonstrate that the application of the various cosmetic compositions leads to a decrease in tissue staining, lightening of the skin and a reduction of melanin. The pulverulent composition of Example 1 also makes it possible to obtain a better tissue viability with respect to a commercial whitening agent. Skin acceptability was assessed by an MTT test. For the two cosmetic preparations containing the powder composition and the ingredients introduced separately, the depigmenting effect is not linked to a cytotoxic effect because the viability of the tissues is not modified. On the other hand, the Melanex Trio preparation induced a slight decrease (25%) in the MTT response of the tissues.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 . - Composition pulvérulente consistant en : 1. - powdery composition consisting of:
- au moins un pigment,  at least one pigment,
- au moins un agent d'encapsulation, at least one encapsulating agent,
- au moins un agent blanchissant,  at least one whitening agent,
- au moins un agent éclaircissant,  at least one lightening agent,
éventuellement un additif choisi parmi la vitamine B3, la vitamine E, un extrait de ginseng, un extrait d'algues rouges, un extrait d'algues brunes et leurs mélanges, et - éventuellement de l'eau.  optionally an additive selected from vitamin B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, a red algae extract, an extract of brown algae and mixtures thereof, and possibly water.
2. - Composition pulvérulente selon la revendication 1 , dans laquelle le(s) pigment(s) est(sont indépendamment) un pigment organique, inorganique ou de nature hybride organique-inorganique ou une charge minérale. 2. - powdery composition according to claim 1, wherein the pigment (s) is (are independently) an organic pigment, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrid nature or a mineral filler.
3. - Composition pulvérulente selon la revendication 2, dans laquelle le(s) pigment(s) est(sont indépendamment) : 3. - pulverulent composition according to claim 2, wherein the pigment (s) is (are independently):
- un pigment inorganique choisi parmi le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, l'oxyde d'aluminium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique,  an inorganic pigment chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, aluminum oxide, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , chromium hydrate and ferric blue,
- un pigment organique choisi parmi le noir de carbone, tel que le D&C black n °2, les pigments organiques rouges, tel que les D&C Red n °6, n °7, n °21 , n °27, n °28, n °30, n °33, n °36, n °40, et le Carmin de cochenille, les pigments organiques bleus, tels que le phtalocyanine de cuivre et la laque de FD&C Blue n °1 , et les pigments organiques jaunes, tel que la laque de D&C Yellow n °10, FD&C Yellow n °5 et 6, ou  an organic pigment selected from carbon black, such as D & C black No. 2, red organic pigments, such as D & C Red No. 6, No. 7, No. 21, No. 27, No. 28, No. 30, No. 33, No. 36, No. 40, and Cochineal Carmine, blue organic pigments, such as copper phthalocyanine and FD & C Blue No. 1 lake, and yellow organic pigments, such as that the lacquer of D & C Yellow No. 10, FD & C Yellow No. 5 and 6, or
- une charge minérale choisie parmi le talc, le kaolin, l'alumine et la silice.  a mineral filler chosen from talc, kaolin, alumina and silica.
4. - Composition pulvérulente selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, dans laquelle l'(es) agent(s) blanchissant(s) est(sont) choisi(s) parmi l'acide kojique, l'a- arbutine, l'hydroquinone, la vitamine C ou un de ses sels, l'ascorbyl glucoside, un extrait de réglisse, l'acide azélaïque, les α-hydroxyacides, l'aloésine, l'acide gallique et ses dérivés, le glutathione, l'acide glycolique, l'hexyl resorcinol, l'hydroxystylbène et ses dérivés. 4. - pulverulent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (s) whitening agent (s) is (are) chosen from kojic acid, a-arbutin , hydroquinone, vitamin C or a salt thereof, ascorbyl glucoside, licorice extract, azelaic acid, α-hydroxy acids, aloesin, gallic acid and its derivatives, glutathione, glycolic acid, hexyl resorcinol, hydroxystylbene and its derivatives.
5. - Composition pulvérulente selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, dans laquelle l'(es) agent(s) éclaircissant(s) est(sont indépendamment) choisi(s) parmi les azurant optiques et les nacres, telles que les borosilicates ou le mica, naturel ou synthétique, ledit mica étant éventuellement recouvert d'oxyde de titane, d'oxyde de fer rouge, jaune ou noir, d'oxyde de chrome , de carmin, de bleu de Prusse, de bleu d'outremer, de violet de manganèse, de silice, d'alumine ou de leurs mélanges. 5. - pulverulent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the (s) lightening agent (s) is (are independently) selected from optical brighteners and nacres, such as borosilicates or mica, natural or synthetic, said mica being optionally coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide red, yellow or black, chromium oxide, carmine, Prussian blue, blue ultramarine, manganese violet, silica, alumina or mixtures thereof.
6. - Composition pulvérulente selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, dans laquelle l'(les) agent(s) d'encapsulation est(sont indépendamment) : 6. - pulverulent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (the) agent (s) encapsulation is (are independently):
- un agent d'encapsulation hydrophile choisi parmi les agents filmogènes d'origine naturelle de la famille des polysaccharides, les esters de cires et de polyglycérol, et les polymères synthétiques tels que le polyéthylène glycol, l'acide polyacrylique, l'acide polylactique, le polyvinylalcohol, l'acrylamide, l'isopropylacrylamide ou leurs copolymères, ou a hydrophilic encapsulation agent chosen from film-forming agents of natural origin of the polysaccharide family, esters of waxes and polyglycerol, and synthetic polymers such as polyethylene glycol, polyacrylic acid and polylactic acid, polyvinylalcohol, acrylamide, isopropylacrylamide or their copolymers, or
- un agent d'encapsulation lipophile choisi parmi les cires naturelles d'origine végétale animale, minérale ou synthétique, a lipophilic encapsulation agent chosen from natural waxes of vegetable animal, mineral or synthetic origin,
notamment un polyéthylène glycol, un copolymère de polyéthylène glycol ou une cire naturelle ou synthétique. in particular a polyethylene glycol, a polyethylene glycol copolymer or a natural or synthetic wax.
7.- Composition pulvérulente selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, dans laquelle : 7. A pulverulent composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein:
- le pigment est choisi parmi le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc et leurs mélanges, et/ou  the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and mixtures thereof, and / or
- l'agent blanchissant est choisi parmi Γα-arbutine et l'extrait de réglisse, et/ou  the whitening agent is chosen from Γα-arbutin and liquorice extract, and / or
- l'agent éclaircissant est du mica éventuellement recouvert d'oxyde de titane, d'oxyde de fer rouge jaune ou noir, d'oxyde de chrome, de carmin, de bleu de Prusse, de bleu d'outremer, de violet de manganèse, de silice, d'alumine ou de leurs mélanges, et/outhe lightening agent is mica optionally coated with titanium oxide, yellow or black red iron oxide, chromium oxide, carmine, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, manganese violet , silica, alumina or mixtures thereof, and / or
- l'agent d'encapsulation est un polyéthylène glycol. the encapsulating agent is a polyethylene glycol.
8.- Composition pulvérulente selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, constituée de : 8.- powder composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, consisting of:
- 80 à 97 % massique de pigment(s), et/ou  - 80 to 97% by weight of pigment (s), and / or
1 à 5 % massique d'agent(s) d'encapsulation, et/ou  1 to 5% by weight of encapsulating agent (s), and / or
1 à 5 % massique d'agent(s) blanchissant, et/ou  1 to 5% by weight of whitening agent (s), and / or
- 1 à 15 % massique d'agent(s) éclaircissant et/ou - 0 à 5 % massique d'additif(s) choisi parmi la vitamine B3, la vitamine E, un extrait de ginseng, un extrait d'algues rouges et brunes et leurs mélanges, et/ou - 1 to 15% by weight of lightening agent (s) and / or 0 to 5% by weight of additive (s) selected from vitamin B3, vitamin E, a ginseng extract, an extract of red and brown algae and mixtures thereof, and / or
- 0 à 5 % massique d'eau.  - 0 to 5% by weight of water.
9. - Procédé de préparation d'une composition pulvérulente selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, comprenant l'étape de mélange d'au moins un pigment, d'au moins un agent d'encapsulation, d'au moins un agent blanchissant, d'au moins un agent éclaircissant, éventuellement d'un additif tel que défini ci-dessus et éventuellement d'eau. 9. - Process for preparing a powdery composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the step of mixing at least one pigment, at least one encapsulating agent, at least one whitening agent, at least one lightening agent, optionally an additive as defined above and optionally water.
10. - Utilisation d'une composition pulvérulente selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8 pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique. 10. - Use of a powdery composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.
EP14707423.1A 2013-03-05 2014-03-03 Powdered composition for use in the preparation of whitening cosmetic compositions Withdrawn EP2964333A1 (en)

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FR1351935A FR3002844B1 (en) 2013-03-05 2013-03-05 PULVERULENT COMPOSITION USEFUL FOR THE PREPARATION OF LAUNDRY COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
PCT/EP2014/054073 WO2014135497A1 (en) 2013-03-05 2014-03-03 Powdered composition for use in the preparation of whitening cosmetic compositions

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FR (1) FR3002844B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2014135497A1 (en)
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FR3059234B1 (en) * 2016-11-28 2019-11-01 L'oreal SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POWDER AND A POLY (ALKYLENE OXIDE)
CN108904805B (en) * 2018-09-05 2021-02-19 广西师范大学 Preparation method and application of glutathione-responsive Berlin green nanoparticles

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GB9616978D0 (en) * 1996-08-13 1996-09-25 Tioxide Specialties Ltd Zinc oxide dispersions
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US20160008241A1 (en) 2016-01-14
FR3002844A1 (en) 2014-09-12
ZA201506262B (en) 2017-03-29
WO2014135497A1 (en) 2014-09-12

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