EP2883574B1 - Sicherungsvorrichtung - Google Patents

Sicherungsvorrichtung Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2883574B1
EP2883574B1 EP14197458.4A EP14197458A EP2883574B1 EP 2883574 B1 EP2883574 B1 EP 2883574B1 EP 14197458 A EP14197458 A EP 14197458A EP 2883574 B1 EP2883574 B1 EP 2883574B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
rope
guide
belay
mode
belay device
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Active
Application number
EP14197458.4A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2883574A2 (de
EP2883574A3 (de
Inventor
Frederick Allan Hall
Dougie Swanson-Low
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
DMM International Ltd
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DMM International Ltd
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Publication date
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Publication of EP2883574A2 publication Critical patent/EP2883574A2/de
Publication of EP2883574A3 publication Critical patent/EP2883574A3/de
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Publication of EP2883574B1 publication Critical patent/EP2883574B1/de
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62—LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62B—DEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/06—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
    • A62B1/14—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices with brakes sliding on the rope
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a belay device. Specifically, it relates to a belay device for use in climbing that can be used in a variety of modes.
  • Belaying refers to a variety of techniques to exert friction on a climbing rope so that a climber can be held securely in the event of a fall or while being lowered in a controlled manner.
  • the rope was wrapped around a climber's body or a friction knot was used.
  • this means of belaying was superseded by use of a dedicated belay device, exemplified by ' Figure-of-8' device, or others that typically include a plate with two slots, tubes or other formations that use a camming action to generate friction on a rope.
  • Belay devices are also used extensively for descending ropes (referred to as "abseiling" or "rappelling") in a controlled manner. Belay devices can be used with a single rope or with two ropes.
  • a lead climber climbs while a second climber, acting as a belayer, remains at the bottom of the climb with a pool of climbing rope.
  • the leader is connected to the rope through a harness, while the belay device is connected to a harness worn by the belayer.
  • the rope is clipped into climbing protection fixed to the rock.
  • the belayer must pass rope through the belay device so that the leader can progress, whilst maintaining only a little slack so that the distance that the leader can possibly fall is kept to a minimum.
  • the belayer will control the rope so that the belay device can apply friction to the rope, allowing the belayer to maintain an easy grip on the rope.
  • a belayer at the top of a climb has two options: either standard belaying or belaying in 'guide mode'; these will be described.
  • the belay device simply works by applying friction to the rope depending on how the belayer controls the ⁇ free rope' leading from it.
  • the set-up is the same whether belaying from the top or the bottom, as well as rappelling.
  • the lead climber belays the second climber from the top with the belay device set-up in a specific configuration that will cause the belay device to instantaneously lock the rope if the second falls.
  • a body of the device is secured to an anchoring carabiner that is secured to a fixed anchor, about which it can pivot between an unlocked and a locked position.
  • a problem can occur for the belayer if the second falls and weights the rope, then cannot resume climbing. In such circumstances, the fallen climber must be lowered to the ground.
  • the belay device In order to allow the rope to be released and the climber thereby lowered in a controlled manner, the belay device must be rotated to an unlocked position by applying an upward force to a release formation.
  • US2011284323 discloses rope handling devices that can be used for, inter alia, arresting a fall or lowering a climber.
  • An aim of this invention is to provide a belay device that can be used in guide mode that can require less effort when being used to lower a climber whose fall has been arrested by the device.
  • the present invention provides a belay device operable for guide-mode belaying as set forth in claim 1.
  • the device can be configured to be compact when in general use, but have more favourable mechanical advantage than a conventional guide-mode belay device when the release formation is to be brought into use to release a climber being supported by the device.
  • the guide-mode anchor may be of a generally semi-circular shape, being pivotally coaxially connected to the body at two opposite end portions.
  • An axis about which the guide-mode anchor can pivot is generally transverse to a plane that would be occupied by a rope that is passed through the rope slot.
  • Embodiments of the invention may include two or more rope slots, whereby two or more ropes can be used to belay a climber.
  • the release formation may be constituted by an integral region of the body.
  • it may be a region that extends in a direction generally normal to a pivot axis of the guide mode anchor.
  • the release formation may include a hole through a part of the body through which a lever can be inserted to exert a force upon the body.
  • a rope passage may extend from the or each slot.
  • friction inducing grooves are formed in the rope passage.
  • a belay device may include a keeper to which a connection device can be connected to restrict the extent to which the belay device can slide along the rope and to secure the connection device to the body in the absence of a rope.
  • this invention provides a belay arrangement comprising a device according to the first aspect of the invention, a rope having a generally U-shaped bight, which passes through a slot of the belay device, a first connection device that passes through the bight to prevent its removal from the slot, and a second connection device that connects the guide-mode anchor to a belaying point.
  • the belaying point may be a fixed anchor.
  • a belay device comprises the following principal components: a body 10, a guide-mode anchor 12 and a keeper cable 14.
  • the body 10 of this embodiment is formed as from a single piece of metal, in this case, a light aluminium alloy.
  • Two rope slots 22 are formed through the body 10. Each slot 22 has spaced, generally parallel side walls that are interconnected by a rounded end wall 24 at one end of the slot. At the opposite end of each slot 22, a U-shaped rope passage 26 extends from each slot 22. Multiple grooves 28 are formed in the rope passage 26.
  • a guide-mode release hole 30 is formed through a region of the body 10 that extends beyond and between the rope passages 26 in a direction away from the guide mode anchor to constitute a release formation of the device.
  • a pivot hole 32 extends transversely through the body 10 adjacent to the end walls 24 of the slots 22, flat bearing surfaces 34 surrounding each end of the pivot hole 32.
  • the keeper cable 14 comprises a length of steel cable enclosed within a protective sleeve. End portions of the keeper cable 14 are secured within the body 10, one end portion being between the end walls 24 and the other being between the rope passages 26, such that the keeper cable 14 forms a U-shaped loop that extends from the body 10.
  • the guide-mode anchor 12 is formed from an approximately semi-circular single piece of metal, light aluminium alloy in this embodiment. End portions of the guide-mode anchor 12 are formed as connection regions 36, each having mutually facing flat bearing surfaces through each of which a pivot hole 38 passes, the pivot holes being coaxial. The bearing surfaces of the guide-mode anchor 12 are spaced apart a small distance more than the spacing between the bearing surfaces 34 of the body 10.
  • a spindle 40 has a shaft that passes through the pivot holes 32, 38 of the body 10 and the guide-mode anchor 12.
  • the spindle 40 is retained by an integral head and by being riveted at an end opposite to the head.
  • the shaft is a close sliding fit in the pivot holes, whereby the guide-mode anchor 12 is secured to the body 10, but can pivot with respect to it about a pivot axis that is generally coincident with the axis of the shaft of the spindle 40.
  • the guide-mode anchor 12 therefore forms a closed loop with the body 10.
  • two slots 22 are essentially identical and can be used interchangeably. Two slots are provided in this embodiment to allow the belayer to control two ropes in both standard and guide-mode configurations.
  • a bight 50 of climbing rope is passed through either one of the slots 22 such that the bight 50 lies adjacent to the keeper cable 14.
  • a carabiner 52 is then connected through the bight 50 and the keeper cable 14 and locked.
  • the carabiner 52 is also connected to a belay loop 54 that is part of a harness worn by a belayer.
  • the rope is now pulled tight such that the carabiner 52 is drawn into contact with the body 10, so preventing the rope from coming out of the slot.
  • a working length of the rope passes from the slot 22, as shown at 56, adjacent to the guide-mode anchor 12 upward to a leading climber that is being belayed, and a free length of rope, shown at 58, passes from the slot 22 through the rope passage 26.
  • a bight of rope 50 is passed through either slot 22, and a carabiner 52 is passed through the bight 50 and the keeper cable 14, and the carabiner 52 is then locked.
  • the carabiner 52 is not otherwise connected.
  • a working length of rope, shown at 56 is connected to the harness of a second climber, and a free length of rope, shown at 58, which is held and controlled by the lead climber acting as belayer.
  • the free length 58 extends from the body through the rope passage 26, and the working length 56 lies on top of it.
  • An anchoring carabiner 60 is passed through the loop formed by the guide-mode anchor 12 and is locked.
  • the anchoring carabiner 60 is also connected directly or indirectly to a fixed anchor, such as a rock bolt.
  • the purpose of the keeper cable 14 is to keep the device from sliding up or down the rope and out of reach and control of the belayer. It also provides a means for connecting the carabiner 52 to the device when it is not in use, and there is no rope present.
  • slack is introduced into the working length 56.
  • the belayer pulls on the free length 58 to take in that slack through the device.
  • the belayer may raise the working length of rope 56 off the free length 58, thereby reducing the mutual friction between them and enable the rope to be taken in easily.
  • this can be done in reverse to feed out slack to the second, for example if the climber needs to climb down.
  • the climber may have to be lowered while suspended from the working length 56 of the rope.
  • the friction applied to the rope 56, 58 by the belay device must be reduced in a controlled manner by separating the ropes. This can be achieved by applying a force in a generally upward direction to the body 10 in the region of the guide-mode release hole 30 so that the body 10 rotates in a direction that it clockwise in the figures.
  • the release force F r that must be applied at the guide-mode release hole 30 acts against the weight F w of the fallen climber with a mechanical advantage that is determined by a ratio of lengths A/B determined by the geometry of the belay device.
  • Length A is the horizontal component of the distance from the working length 56 of the rope to the guide-mode release hole 30.
  • Length B is the horizontal component of the distance from the working length 56 of the rope to the axis about which the body pivots to release the rope, which is, in this embodiment, the axis about which the guide-mode anchor 12 can pivot around the spindle 40 with respect to the body 10.
  • the value of A can be increased or the value of B decreased.
  • Increasing A is undesirable, because it increases the size and weight of the belay device.
  • the minimum value of B is determined by the need to provide a guide-mode anchor 12 of sufficient size that the device can be used conveniently with carabiners of a range of sizes.
  • the guide-mode anchor 12 can be pivoted outward to a configuration shown in, for example, Figure 6 , which provides ample space for the belay device to be installed upon a rope.
  • the total length of the device is comparable with that of a conventional belay device.
  • the guide-mode anchor 12 is pivoted towards the body 10 as shown in Figure 12 , thereby reducing the length B to a value that is considerably less than would be the case if the guide-mode anchor and the body 10 were a single rigid component, so increasing the ratio A/B without increasing the length A and therefore without increasing the overall size of the belay device.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Business, Economics & Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Management (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)

Claims (12)

  1. Sicherungsvorrichtung, die zum Sichern im Führungsmodus bedienbar ist, wobei die Vorrichtung einen Körper (10) umfasst, der eine Seildurchführung (22), durch die eine Seilschlaufe (50) hindurchgeführt werden kann, einen Führungsmodusanker (12), der über einen Verankerungskarabiner (60) direkt oder indirekt mit einem festen Anker verbunden ist, und eine Freisetzungsstruktur (30) umfasst, wobei die Vorrichtung in der Lage ist, eine reibungsvermittelte Sperrung einer Arbeitslänge (56) des Seils in einem Belastungszustand des Seils zu bewirken, der demjenigen entspricht, der im Falle eines Sturzes eines gesicherten Kletterers auftritt, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Führungsmodusanker schwenkbar mit dem Körper verbunden und so angeordnet ist, dass, wenn das Seil gesperrt ist, der Körper (10) durch eine auf die Freisetzungsstruktur (30) ausgeübte Kraft veranlasst wird, relativ zum Führungsmodusanker (12) zu drehen, wobei die Drehbewegung dazu dient, den mechanischen Vorteil der Freisetzungsstruktur (30) zu erhöhen, die auf eine von der Arbeitslänge (56) des Seils auf den Körper (10) ausgeübten Last wirkt, indem der Wert des Längenverhältnisses A/B vergrößert wird, wobei die Länge A die horizontale Komponente des Abstands zwischen der Arbeitslänge (56) des Seils und der Freisetzungsstruktur (30) ist und die Länge B die horizontale Komponente des Abstands zwischen der Arbeitslänge (56) des Seils und der Achse ist, um die der Führungsmodusanker (12) relativ zu dem Körper (10) drehen kann.
  2. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 1, bei der der Führungsmodusanker (12) eine im Allgemeinen halbkreisförmige Form aufweist und an zwei gegenüberliegenden Endabschnitten koaxial-drehbar mit dem Körper (10) verbunden ist.
  3. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 1 oder Anspruch 2, bei der eine Achse, um die der Führungsmodusanker (12) drehen kann, im Allgemeinen quer zu einer Ebene liegt, die von einem durch die Seildurchführung (22) geführten Seil eingenommen wäre.
  4. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, die zwei oder mehr Seildurchführungen (22) aufweist, wodurch zwei oder mehr Nachsteigende gesichert werden können
  5. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, bei der die Freisetzungsstruktur durch einen integralen Bereich des Körpers (10) gebildet wird.
  6. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 5, bei der die Freisetzungsstruktur ein Bereich des Körpers (10) ist, der sich in einer Richtung erstreckt, die im Allgemeinen senkrecht zu einer Drehachse des Führungsmodusankers (12) verläuft.
  7. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche mit einem Loch (30) durch den Körper (10), durch das ein Hebel (70) eingeführt werden kann, um eine Kraft auf den Körper (10) auszuüben.
  8. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, bei der sich von der oder jeder Durchführung (22) ein Seilverlauf (26) erstreckt.
  9. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach Anspruch 8, bei der in dem Seilverlauf (26) reibungserzeugende Rillen (28) ausgebildet sind.
  10. Sicherungsvorrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, die außerdem eine Halterung (14) umfasst, mit der eine Verbindungsvorrichtung (52) verbunden werden kann, die das Ausmaß begrenzt, in dem die Sicherungsvorrichtung entlang des Seils gleiten kann.
  11. Sicherungsanordnung, umfassend eine Vorrichtung nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, ein Seil mit einer allgemein U-förmigen Schlaufe (50), die durch eine Durchführung (22) der Sicherungsvorrichtung verläuft, eine erste Verbindungsvorrichtung (52), die durch die Schlaufe verläuft, um deren Entfernung aus der Durchführung zu verhindern, und eine zweite Verbindungsvorrichtung (60), die den Führungsmodusanker mit einem Sicherungspunkt verbindet.
  12. Sicherungsanordnung nach Anspruch 11, bei der der Sicherungspunkt ein fester Anker ist, mit dem die Sicherungsvorrichtung direkt oder indirekt verbunden ist.
EP14197458.4A 2013-12-12 2014-12-11 Sicherungsvorrichtung Active EP2883574B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB1322007.4A GB2523073B (en) 2013-12-12 2013-12-12 Belay device

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2883574A2 EP2883574A2 (de) 2015-06-17
EP2883574A3 EP2883574A3 (de) 2015-08-19
EP2883574B1 true EP2883574B1 (de) 2024-03-27

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Family Applications (1)

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EP14197458.4A Active EP2883574B1 (de) 2013-12-12 2014-12-11 Sicherungsvorrichtung

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EP (1) EP2883574B1 (de)
GB (1) GB2523073B (de)

Family Cites Families (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10219492A1 (de) * 2002-04-30 2003-11-13 Bornack Gmbh & Co Kg Automatisches Sicherungs- und Abseilgerät
FR2884429B1 (fr) * 2005-04-19 2007-06-08 Simond Soc Par Actions Simplif Dispositif de freinage et blocage de corde
US7963366B2 (en) * 2006-02-16 2011-06-21 Tony Christianson Split tube belay device
AT506720B1 (de) * 2008-04-24 2011-08-15 Anlo Mountain Gmbh Sicherungsgerät
WO2010088566A1 (en) * 2009-02-02 2010-08-05 Ayre William H Rope handling device with secondary locking feature
FR2946258A1 (fr) * 2009-06-09 2010-12-10 Simond Ets Dispositif de freinage de corde a levier rapporte.
US8348016B2 (en) * 2009-08-26 2013-01-08 Lewis Richard W Descender with fall arrest and controlled rate of descent
IT1403628B1 (it) * 2011-01-13 2013-10-31 Aludesign Spa Dispositivo assicuratore e discensore

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2883574A2 (de) 2015-06-17
GB201322007D0 (en) 2014-01-29
GB2523073A (en) 2015-08-19
EP2883574A3 (de) 2015-08-19
GB2523073B (en) 2016-03-02

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